Norwich
Norwich (/ˈnɒrɪdʒ, -ɪtʃ/ (
Norwich | |
|---|---|
 Clockwise from top left: Princes Street, Norwich Cathedral, Norwich City Hall, Norwich Castle, St John the Baptist Cathedral | |
 Coat of arms | |
 Location within Norfolk | |
  Norwich Location within England  Norwich Location within the United Kingdom  Norwich Norwich (Europe) | |
| Coordinates: 52.630°N 1.297°E | |
| Sovereign state |  |
| Country |  |
| Region | East of England |
| County | Norfolk |
| Founded | c.43 AD as Northwic |
| City status | 1094 |
| Admin HQ | City Hall |
| Government | |
| • Type | Non-metropolitan district council |
| • Local Authority | Norwich City Council |
| • MPs |
|
| Area | |
| • Urban | 52.6 km2 (20.3 sq mi) |
| Population (mid-2019 est.) | |
| • City | 143,135 (ranked 149th) |
| • Urban | 213,166 |
| • Urban density | 4,100/km2 (10,000/sq mi) |
| • Metro | 376,500 (TTWA)[1] |
| • Ethnicity (2011 Census)[2] | 90.9% White
|
| Demonym(s) | Norvician |
| Time zone | UTC0 (GMT) |
| • Summer (DST) | UTC+1 (BST) |
| Postcode | |
| Area code (IDD) | 01603 |
| Vehicle registration area code | AO, AP, AR, AS, AT, AU |
| ONS code | 33UK |
| Primary airport | Norwich Airport |
| Website | www |
Heritage and status
The city is the most complete medieval city in the United Kingdom,[4] including cobbled streets such as Elm Hill, Timber Hill and Tombland, ancient buildings such as St Andrew's Hall, half-timbered houses such as Dragon Hall, The Guildhall and Strangers' Hall, the Art Nouveau of the 1899 Royal Arcade, many medieval lanes and the winding River Wensum that flows through the city centre towards Norwich Castle.[4]
The city has two universities, the University of East Anglia and the Norwich University of the Arts, and two cathedrals, Norwich Cathedral and St John the Baptist Cathedral.
Norwich holds the largest permanent undercover market in Europe.[4] The urban area of Norwich had a population of 213,166 according to the 2011 Census.[5] The parliamentary seats cross into adjacent local government districts. A total of 132,512 people live in the City of Norwich (2011 census),[6] and the population of the Norwich Travel to Work Area (i. e. the self-contained labour market area in and around Norwich, in which most people live and commute to work) is 282,000 (mid-2009 estimate).[7] Norwich is the fourth most densely populated local-government district in the East of England, with 3,480 people per square kilometre (8,993 per square mile).
In May 2012, Norwich was designated England's first UNESCO City of Literature.[8] One of the UK's most popular tourist destinations, it was voted by The Guardian in 2016 as the "happiest city to work in the UK"[9] and in 2013 as one of the best small cities in the world by The Times Good University Guide.[10] In 2018, 2019 and 2020, Norwich was voted one of the "Best Places To Live" in the UK by The Sunday Times.[11] [12]
History
Roman
The capital of the Iceni tribe was a settlement located near to the village of Caistor St. Edmund on the River Tas approximately 5 miles (8 km) to the south of modern-day Norwich.[13] Following an uprising led by Boudica around AD 60, the Caistor area became the Roman capital of East Anglia named Venta Icenorum, literally "the marketplace of the Iceni".[13] The Roman settlement fell into disuse around 450, and the Anglo-Saxons settled on the site of the modern city some time between the 5th and 7th centuries,[14] founding the towns of Northwic (from which Norwich gets its name),[15] Westwic (at Norwich-over-the-Water) and the secondary settlement at Thorpe. According to a local rhyme, the demise of Venta Icenorum led to the development of Norwich: "Caistor was a city when Norwich was none, Norwich was built of Caistor stone."[13]
Early English and Norman conquest
There are two suggested models of development for Norwich. It is possible that three separate early Anglo-Saxon settlements, one north of the river and two either side on the south, joined together as they grew or that one Anglo-Saxon settlement, north of the river, emerged in the mid-7th century after the abandonment of the previous three. The ancient city was a thriving centre for trade and commerce in East Anglia in 1004 when it was raided and burnt by Swein Forkbeard the Viking king of Denmark. Mercian coins and shards of pottery from the Rhineland dating from the 8th century suggest that long-distance trade was happening long before this. Between 924 and 939, Norwich became fully established as a town, with its own mint. The word Norvic appears on coins across Europe minted during this period, in the reign of King Athelstan. The Vikings were a strong cultural influence in Norwich for 40 to 50 years at the end of the 9th century, setting up an Anglo-Scandinavian district near the north end of present-day King Street. At the time of the Norman Conquest, the city was one of the largest in England. The Domesday Book states that it had approximately 25 churches and a population of between 5,000 and 10,000. It also records the site of an Anglo-Saxon church in Tombland, the site of the Saxon market place and the later Norman cathedral. Norwich continued to be a major centre for trade, the River Wensum being a convenient export route to the River Yare and Great Yarmouth, which served as the port for Norwich. Quern stones and other artefacts from Scandinavia and the Rhineland have been found during excavations in Norwich city centre. These date from the 11th century onwards.
Norwich Castle was founded soon after the Norman Conquest.[16] The Domesday Book records that 98 Saxon homes were demolished to make way for the castle.[17] The Normans established a new focus of settlement around the Castle and the area to the west of it: this became known as the "New" or "French" borough, centred on the Normans' own market place, which survives today as Norwich Market. In 1096, Herbert de Losinga, Bishop of Thetford, began construction of Norwich Cathedral. The chief building material for the Cathedral was limestone, imported from Caen in Normandy. To transport the building stone to the site, a canal was cut from the river (from the site of present-day Pulls Ferry) up to the east wall. Herbert de Losinga then moved his See there, to what became the cathedral church for the Diocese of Norwich. The Bishop of Norwich still signs himself Norvic. Norwich received a royal charter from Henry II in 1158, and another from Richard the Lionheart in 1194. After a riot in the city in 1274, Norwich has the distinction of being the only complete English city to be excommunicated by the Pope.[18]
Middle Ages
The first recorded presence of Jews in Norwich is 1134.[19] In 1144, the Jews of Norwich were falsely accused of ritual murder after a boy (William of Norwich) was found dead with stab wounds.[19] William acquired the status of martyr and was subsequently canonised. Pilgrims made offerings to a shrine at the Cathedral (largely finished by 1140) up to the 16th century, but the records suggest there were few of them.[20] In 1174, Norwich was sacked by the Flemings. In February 1190, all the Jews of Norwich were massacred except for a few who found refuge in the castle. At the site of a medieval well, the bones of 17 individuals, including 11 children, were found in 2004 by workers preparing the ground for construction of a Norwich shopping centre. The remains were determined by forensic scientists to be most probably the remains of such murdered Jews, and a DNA expert determined that the victims were all related, so that they probably came from one Ashkenazi Jewish family.[21] The study of the remains featured in an episode of the BBC television documentary series History Cold Case.[22]
In 1216, the castle fell to Louis, Dauphin of France and Hildebrand's Hospital was founded, followed ten years later by the Franciscan Friary and Dominican Friary. The Great Hospital dates from 1249 and the College of St Mary in the Field from 1250. In 1256, Whitefriars was founded. In 1266 the city was sacked by the "Disinherited". It has the distinction of being the only English city ever to be excommunicated, following a riot between citizens and monks in 1274.[18] As a penance, St Ethelbert's Gate, one of the entrances to the cathedral priory, was constructed by Norwich citizens. In 1278 the Cathedral received final consecration. In 1290 the city flooded. Austin Friary was founded in that year.
The engine of trade was wool from Norfolk's sheepwalks. Wool made England rich, and the staple port of Norwich "in her state doth stand With towns of high'st regard the fourth of all the land", as Michael Drayton noted in Poly-Olbion (1612). The wealth generated by the wool trade throughout the Middle Ages financed the construction of many fine churches, so that Norwich still has more medieval churches than any other city in Western Europe north of the Alps. Throughout this period Norwich established wide-ranging trading links with other parts of Europe, its markets stretching from Scandinavia to Spain and the city housing a Hanseatic warehouse. To organise and control its exports to the Low Countries, Great Yarmouth, as the port for Norwich, was designated one of the staple ports under the terms of the 1353 Statute of the Staple.
From 1280 to 1340 the city walls were built. At around 2 1⁄2 miles (4.0 km), these walls, along with the river, enclosed a larger area than that of the City of London. However, when the city walls were constructed it was made illegal to build outside them, inhibiting expansion of the city. Around this time, the city was made a county corporate and became the seat of one of the most densely populated and prosperous counties of England. Part of these walls remain standing today.
Early modern period (1485–1640)
Hand-in-hand with the wool industry, this key religious centre experienced a Reformation significantly different to other parts of England. The magistracy in Tudor Norwich unusually found ways of managing religious discord whilst maintaining civic harmony.[23]
The summer of 1549 saw an unprecedented rebellion in Norfolk. Unlike popular challenges elsewhere in the Tudor period, it appears to have been Protestant in nature. For several weeks, rebels led by Robert Kett camped outside Norwich on Mousehold Heath and took control of the city on 29 July 1549 with the support of many of its poorer inhabitants. Kett's Rebellion was particularly in response to the enclosure of land by landlords, leaving peasants with nowhere to graze their animals and the general abuses of power by the nobility. The uprising ended on 27 August when the rebels were defeated by an army. Kett was convicted of treason and hanged from the walls of Norwich Castle.[24][25][26]
Unusually in England, the rebellion divided the city and appears to have linked Protestantism with the plight of the urban poor. In the case of Norwich, this process was underscored later by the arrival of Dutch and Flemish "Strangers" fleeing persecution from the Catholics and eventually numbering as many as one-third of the city's population.[27] Large numbers of such exiles came to the city, especially Flemish Protestants from the Westkwartier ("Western Quarter"), a region in the Southern Netherlands where the first Calvinist fires of the Dutch Revolt had spread. Inhabitants of Ypres, in particular, chose Norwich above other destinations.[28] Perhaps in response to Kett, Norwich became the first provincial city to initiate compulsory payments for a civic scheme of poor relief, which it has been claimed led to its wider introduction, forming the basis of the later Elizabethan Poor Law of 1597–1598.[29]
Norwich has traditionally been the home of various minorities, notably Flemish and Belgian Walloon communities in the 16th and 17th centuries. The great "stranger" immigration of 1567 brought a substantial Flemish and Walloon community of Protestant weavers to Norwich, where they are said to have been made welcome.[30] The merchant's house which was their earliest base in the city — now a museum — is still known as Strangers' Hall. It seems that the strangers integrated into the local community without much animosity, at least among the business fraternity, who had the most to gain from their skills. Their arrival in Norwich boosted trade with mainland Europe and fostered a movement toward religious reform and radical politics in the city. By contrast, after being persecuted by the Anglican church for his Puritan beliefs, Michael Metcalf, a 17th-century Norwich weaver, fled the city and settled in Dedham, Massachusetts.[31]
The Norwich Canary was first introduced into England by Flemings fleeing from Spanish persecution in the 16th century. Along with their advanced techniques in textile working, they brought pet canaries which they began to breed locally; eventually becoming, in the 20th century, a mascot of the city and the emblem of its football club, Norwich City F.C., whose nickname is "The Canaries".
Printing was introduced to the city in 1567 by Anthony de Solempne, one of the strangers, but it did not take root and had died out by about 1572.[32]
Civil War to Victorian era
Across the Eastern Counties, Oliver Cromwell's powerful Eastern Association was eventually dominant. However, to begin with, there had been a large element of Royalist sympathy within Norwich, which seems to have experienced a continuity of its two-sided political tradition throughout the period. Bishop Matthew Wren was a forceful supporter of Charles I. Nonetheless, Parliamentary recruitment took hold. The strong Royalist party was stifled by a lack of commitment from the aldermen and isolation from Royalist-held regions.[33] Serious inter-factional disturbances culminated in "The Great Blow" of 1648 when Parliamentary forces tried to quell a Royalist riot. The latter's gunpowder was set off by accident in the city centre, causing mayhem. According to Hopper[34] the explosion "ranks among the largest of the century". Stoutly defended though East Anglia was by the Parliamentary army, there are said to have been pubs in Norwich where the king's health was still drunk and the name of the Protector sung to ribald verse.
At the cost of some discomfort to the Mayor, the moderate Joseph Hall was targeted because of his position as Bishop of Norwich.
Norwich was marked in the period after the Restoration of 1660 and the ensuing century by a golden age of its cloth industry, comparable only to those in the West Country and Yorkshire.[35] But unlike other cloth-manufacturing regions, Norwich weaving brought greater urbanisation, mainly concentrated in the surrounds of the city itself, creating an urban society, with features such as leisure time, alehouses and other public forums of debate and argument.[36]
Writing of the early 18th century, Pound describes the city's rich cultural life, the winter theatre season, the festivities accompanying the summer assizes, and other popular entertainments. Norwich was the wealthiest town in England, with a sophisticated system of poor relief, and a large influx of foreign refugees.[37] Despite severe outbreaks of plague, the city had a population of almost 30,000. This made Norwich unique in England, although there were some 50 cities of similar size in Europe. In some, like Lyon and Dresden, this was, as in the case of Norwich, linked to an important proto-industry, such as textiles or china pottery, in some, such as Vienna, Madrid and Dublin, to the city's status as an administrative capital, and in some such as Antwerp, Marseilles and Cologne to a position on an important maritime or river trade route.[lower-alpha 1]
Norwich in the late 17th century was riven politically. Churchman Humphrey Prideaux described "two factions, Whig and Tory, and both contend for their way with the utmost violence."[38] Nor did the city accept the outcome of the 1688 Glorious Revolution with a unified voice. The pre-eminent citizen, Bishop William Lloyd, would not take the oaths of allegiance to the new monarchs. One report has it that in 1704 the landlord of Fowler's alehouse "with a glass of beer in hand, went down on his knees and drank a health to James the third, wishing the Crowne [sic] well and settled on his head."[39]
In 1716, at a play at the New Inn, the Pretender was cheered and the audience booed and hissed every time King George's name was mentioned. In 1722 supporters of the king were said to be "hiss'd at and curst as they go in the streets," and in 1731 "a Tory mobb, in a great body, went through several parts of this city, in a riotous manner, cursing and abusing such as they knew to be friends of the government."[lower-alpha 2] But the Whigs gradually gained control and by the 1720s they had successfully petitioned Parliament to allow all adult males working in the textile industry to take up the freedom, on the correct assumption that they would vote Whig. But it had the effect of boosting the city's popular Jacobitism, says Knights, and contests of the kind described continued in Norwich well into a period in which political stability had been discerned at a national level. The city's Jacobitism perhaps only ended with 1745, well after it had ceased to be a significant movement outside Scotland.[39] Despite the Highlanders reaching Derby and Norwich citizens mustering themselves into an association to protect the city, some Tories refused to join in, and the vestry of St Peter Mancroft resolved that it would not ring its bells to summon the defence. Still, it was the end of the road for Norwich Jacobites, and the Whigs organised a notable celebration after the Battle of Culloden.[39]
The events of this period illustrate how Norwich had a strong tradition of popular protest favouring Church and Stuarts and attached to the street and alehouse. Knights tells how in 1716 the mayoral election had ended in a riot, with both sides throwing "brick-ends and great paving stones" at each other.[39] A renowned Jacobite watering-hole, the Blue Bell Inn (nowadays The Bell Hotel), owned in the early 18th century by the high-church Helwys family, became the central rendezvous of the Norwich Revolution Society in the 1790s.[40]
Britain's first provincial newspaper, the Norwich Post, appeared in 1701. By 1726 there were rival Whig and Tory presses, and as early as mid-century, three-quarters of the males in some parishes were literate.[lower-alpha 3] The Norwich municipal library claims an excellent collection of these newspapers, also a folio collection of scrapbooks on 18th-century Norwich politics, which Knights says are "valuable and important". Norwich alehouses had 281 clubs and societies meeting in them in 1701, and at least 138 more were formed before 1758. The Theatre Royal opened in 1758, alongside the city's stage productions in inns and puppet shows in rowdy alehouses.[41][42] In 1750 Norwich could boast nine booksellers and after 1780 a "growing number of circulating and subscription libraries".[43] Knights 2004 says: "[All this] made for a lively political culture, in which independence from governmental lines was particularly strong, evident in campaigns against the war with America and for reform... in which trade and the impact of war with Revolutionary France were key ingredients. The open and contestable structure of local government, the press, the clubs and societies, and dissent all ensured that politics overlapped with communities bound by economics, religion, ideology and print in a world in which public opinion could not be ignored."[39]
Amid this metropolitan culture, the city burghers had built a sophisticated political structure. Freemen, who had the right to trade and to vote at elections, numbered about 2,000 in 1690, rising to over 3,300 by the mid-1730s. With growth partly the result of political manipulation, their numbers did at one point reach one-third of the adult male population.[39] This was notoriously the age of "rotten" and "pocket" boroughs, and Norwich was unusual in having such a high proportion of its citizens able to vote. "Of the political centres where the Jacobin propaganda had penetrated most deeply only Norwich and Nottingham had a franchise deep enough to allow radicals to make use of the electoral process."[44] "Apart from London, Norwich was probably still the largest of those boroughs which were democratically governed," says Jewson 1975, describing other towns under the control of a single fiefdom. In Norwich, he says, a powerful Anglican establishment, symbolised by the Cathedral and the great church of St Peter Mancroft was matched by scarcely less powerful congeries of Dissenters headed by the wealthy literate body [of Unitarians] worshipping at the Octagon Chapel.[45]
In the middle of political disorders of the late 18th century, Norwich intellectual life flourished. It contained one, so far unmentioned aspect: Harriet Martineau wrote of the city's literati of the period, including such people as William Taylor, one of England's first scholars of German. The city "boasted of her intellectual supper-parties, where, amidst a pedantry which would now make laughter hold both his sides, there was much that was pleasant and salutary: and finally she called herself The Athens of England."[46]
Despite Norwich's hitherto industrial prosperity, the wool trade was experiencing intense competition by the 1790s, from Yorkshire woollens and increasingly from Lancashire cottons. The effects were aggravated by the loss of continental markets after Britain went to war with France in 1793.[lower-alpha 4] The early 19th century saw de-industrialisation accompanied by bitter squabbles. The 1820s were marked by wage cuts and personal recrimination against owners. So amid the rich commercial and cultural heritage of its recent past, Norwich suffered in the 1790s from incipient decline exacerbated by a serious trade recession.
As early in the war as 1793, a major city manufacturer and government supporter, Robert Harvey, complained of low order books, languid trade and doubling of the poor rate.[lower-alpha 5] Like many of their Norwich forebears, the hungry poor took their complaints onto the streets. Hayes describes a meeting of 200 people in a Norwich public house, where "Citizen Stanhope" spoke.[lower-alpha 6] The gathering "[roared its] applause at Stanhope's declaration that the Ministers, unless they changed their policy, deserved to have their heads brought to the block; – and if there was a people still in England, the event might turn out to be so." Hayes says that "the outbreak of war, in bringing the worsted manufacture almost to a standstill and so plunging the mass of the Norwich weavers into sudden distress made it almost inevitable that a crude appeal to working-class resentment should take the place of a temperate process of education which the earliest reformers had intended."[47]
At this period opposition to Pitt's government and their war came – in their case almost unanimously – from a circle of radical Dissenting intellectuals of interest in their own right They included the Rigby, Taylor, Aitkin, Barbold, and Alderson families – all Unitarians, and some of the Quaker Gurneys, one of whose girls, Elizabeth, was under her married name of Fry to be noted campaigner for prison reform. Their activities included visits to revolutionary France (before the execution of Louis XVI), the earliest British research into German literature, studies on medical science, petitioning for parliamentary reform, and publishing a highbrow literary magazine called "The Cabinet", in 1795. Their blend of politics, religion and social campaigning was suspicious to Pitt and Windham, causing Pitt to denounce Norwich as "the Jacobin city". Edmund Burke attacked John Gurney in print for sponsoring anti-war protests. Politics aside, it is safe to say that Norwich was the most active intellectual hotbed outside London in the 1790s, and did not retrieve comparable prominence until the University of East of Anglia arrived in the late 20th century.[48]
By 1795 it was not just the Norwich rabble who were causing the government concern. In April that year, the Norwich Patriotic Society was founded, its manifesto declaring "that the great end of civil society was general happiness; that every individual had a right to share in the government."[49] In December the price of bread reached a new peak, and in May 1796, when William Windham was forced to seek re-election after his appointment as war secretary, he only just held his seat.[lower-alpha 7] Amid the disorder and violence so often in Norwich elections, it was only by the narrowest margin that the radical Bartlett Gurney ("Peace and Gurney – No More War – No more Barley Bread") failed to unseat him.[50]
Though informed by issues of recent national importance, the bipartisan political culture of Norwich in the 1790s cannot be divorced from local tradition. Two features stand out from a political continuum of three centuries. The first is a dichotomous power balance. From at least the time of the Reformation, Norwich was recorded as a "two-party city". In the mid-16th century, the weaving parishes fell under the control of opposition forces, as Kett's rebels held the north of the river, in support of poor clothworkers. Indeed there seems to be a case for saying that with this tradition of two-sided disputation, the city had steadily developed an infrastructure, evident in its many cultural and institutional networks of politics, religion, society, news media and the arts, whereby argument could be managed short of outright confrontation. Indeed at a time of hunger and tension on the Norwich streets, with alehouse crowds ready to have "a Minister's head brought to the block", the Anglican and Dissenting clergy exerted themselves to conduct a collegiate dialogue, seeking common ground and reinforcing the well-mannered civic tradition of earlier periods.
In 1797 Thomas Bignold, a 36-year-old wine merchant and banker, founded the first Norwich Union Society. Some years earlier, when he moved from Kent to Norwich, Bignold had been unable to find anyone willing to insure him against the threat from highwaymen. With the entrepreneurial thought that nothing was impossible, and aware that in a city built largely of wood the threat of fire was uppermost in people's minds, Bignold formed the "Norwich Union Society for the Insurance of Houses, Stock and Merchandise from Fire". The new business, which became known as the Norwich Union Fire Insurance Office, was a "mutual" enterprise. Norwich Union was later to become the country's largest insurance giant.
From earliest times Norwich was a textile centre. In the 1780s the manufacture of Norwich shawls became an important industry[51] and remained so for nearly a hundred years. The shawls were a high-quality fashion product and rivalled those of other towns such as Paisley, which had entered shawl manufacturing in about 1805, some 20 or more years after Norwich. With changes in women's fashion in the later Victorian period, the popularity of shawls declined and eventually manufacture ceased. Examples of Norwich shawls are now sought after by collectors of textiles.
Norwich's geographical isolation was such that until 1845, when a railway link was established, it was often quicker to travel to Amsterdam by boat than to London. The railway was introduced to Norwich by Morton Peto, who also built a line to Great Yarmouth. From 1808 to 1814, Norwich had a station in the shutter telegraph chain that connected the Admiralty in London to its naval ships in the port of Great Yarmouth. A permanent military presence was established in the city with the completion of Britannia Barracks in 1897.[52] The Bethel Street and Cattle Market Street drill halls were built around the same time.[53]
20th century
In the early 20th century, Norwich still had several major manufacturing industries. Among them were the large-scale and bespoke manufacture of shoes (for example the Start-rite and Van Dal brands, Bowhill & Elliott and Cheney & Sons Ltd respectively), clothing, joinery (including the cabinet makers and furniture retailer Arthur Brett and Sons, which continues in business in the 21st century), structural engineering, and aircraft design and manufacture. Notable employers included Boulton & Paul, Barnards (ironfounders and inventors of machine-produced wire netting), and the electrical engineers Laurence Scott and Electromotors.
Norwich also has a long association with chocolate making, mainly through the local firm of Caley's, which began as a manufacturer and bottler of mineral water and later diversified into chocolate and Christmas crackers. The Caley's cracker-manufacturing business was taken over by Tom Smith in 1953,[54] and the Norwich factory in Salhouse Road closed in 1998. Caley's was acquired by Mackintosh in the 1930s, and merged with Rowntree's in 1969 to become Rowntree-Mackintosh. Finally it was bought by Nestlé and closed in 1996, with all operations moving to York after a Norwich association of 120 years. The demolished factory stood where the Chapelfield development is now. Caley's chocolate has since reappeared as a brand in the city, though it is no longer made there.[55]
HMSO, once the official publishing and stationery arm of the British government and one of the largest print buyers, printers and suppliers of office equipment in the UK, moved most of its operations from London to Norwich in the 1970s. It occupied the purpose-built 1968 Sovereign House building, near Anglia Square, which in 2017 stood empty and due for demolition if a long-postponed redevelopment of Anglia Square went ahead.
Jarrolds, established in 1810, was a nationally well-known printer and publisher. In 2004, after nearly 200 years, the printing and publishing businesses were sold. Today, the company remains privately owned and the Jarrold name is best recognised as being that of Norwich's only independent department store. The company is also active in property development in Norwich and has a business training division.[56]
Pubs and brewing
The city was home to a long-established tradition of brewing,[57] with several large breweries continuing in business into the second half of the century. The main ones were Morgans, Steward and Patteson, Youngs Crawshay and Youngs, Bullard and Son, and the Norwich Brewery. Despite takeovers and consolidation in the 1950s and 1960s, by the 1970s only the Norwich Brewery (owned by Watney Mann and on the site of Morgans) remained. That too closed in 1985 and was subsequently demolished. Only microbreweries can be found today.
It was stated by Walter Wicks in his book that Norwich once had "a pub for every day of the year, and a church for every Sunday". This was in fact significantly under the actual amount, and the highest number of pubs in the city was in the year 1870, with over 780 beer-houses. A Licensing Act in 1872, had several detrimental effects for landlords and customers, with the total number of pubs dropping to 634. A "Drink Map" was produced in 1892 by the Norwich and Norfolk Gospel Temperance Union, which showed 631 pubs in and around the city centre and surrounding districts. By 1900, the number had dropped to 441 pubs within the City Walls. The title of a pub for every day of the year survived until 1966, when the Chief Constable informed the Licensing Justices that only 355 licences were still operative, with the number slowly shrinking, as over 25 have closed in the last decade.[58] As of 2018, around 100 pubs still trade in the city centre and surrounding areas.
Nazi bombing of Norwich
Norwich suffered extensive bomb damage during World War II, affecting large parts of the old city centre and Victorian terrace housing around the centre. Industry and the rail infrastructure also suffered. The heaviest raids occurred on the nights of 27/28 and 29/30 April 1942; as part of the Baedeker raids (so-called because Baedeker's series of tourist guides to the British Isles were used to select propaganda-rich targets of cultural and historic significance rather than strategic importance). Lord Haw-Haw made reference to the imminent destruction of Norwich's new City Hall (completed in 1938), although in the event it survived unscathed. Significant targets hit included the Morgan's Brewery building, Colman's Wincarnis works, City Station, the Mackintosh chocolate factory, and shopping areas including St Stephen's St and St Benedict's St, the site of Bond's department store (now John Lewis) and Curl's (later Debenhams) department store.
229 citizens were killed in the two Baedeker raids with 1,000 others injured, and 340 by bombing throughout the war — giving Norwich the highest air raid casualties in Eastern England. Out of the 35,000 domestic dwellings in Norwich, 2,000 were destroyed, and another 27,000 suffered some damage.[59] In 1945 the city was also the intended target of a brief V-2 rocket campaign, though all these missed the city itself.[60][61]
Post-Second World War redevelopment
As the war ended, the city council revealed what it had been working on before the war. It was published as a book – The City of Norwich Plan 1945 or commonly known as "The '45 Plan"[62] – a grandiose scheme of massive redevelopment which never properly materialised. However, throughout the 1960s to early 1970, the city was completely altered and large areas of Norwich were cleared to make way for modern redevelopment.
In 1960, the inner-city district of Richmond, between Ber Street and King Street, locally known as "the Village on the Hill", was condemned as slums and many residents were forced to leave by compulsory purchase orders on the old terraces and lanes. The whole borough demolished consisted of some 56 acres of existing streets, including 833 dwellings (612 classed as unfit for human habitation), 42 shops, four offices, 22 public houses and two schools.[63] Communities were moved to high-rise buildings such as Normandie Tower and new housing estates such as Tuckswood, which were being built at the time. A new road, Rouen Road, was developed instead, consisting mainly of light industrial units and council flats. Ber Street, a once historic main road into the city, had its whole eastern side demolished. About this time, the final part of St Peters Street, opposite St Peter Mancroft Church, were demolished along with large Georgian townhouses at the top of Bethel Street, to make way for the new City Library in 1961.[59] This burnt down on 1 August 1994 and was replaced in 2001 by The Forum.
A controversial plan was implemented for Norwich's inner ring-road in the late 1960s. In 1931, the city architect Robert Atkinson, referring to the City Wall, remarked that "in almost every position are slum dwellings put up during the last 50 years. It would be a great adventure to clear them all out and open up the road following the wall which has always been a natural highway. Do this, and you will have a wonderful circulating boulevard all around the city and its cost would be comparatively nothing."[64] To accommodate the road, many more buildings were demolished, including an ancient road junction – Stump Cross. Magdalen Street, Botolph Street, St George's Street, Calvert Street and notably Pitt Street, all lined with Tudor and Georgian buildings, were cleared to make way for a fly-over and a Brutalist concrete shopping centre – Anglia Square – as well as office blocks such as an HMSO building, Sovereign House. Other areas affected were Grapes Hill, a once narrow lane lined with 19th-century Georgian cottages, which was cleared and widened into a dual carriageway leading to a roundabout. Shortly before construction of the roundabout, the city's old Drill Hall was demolished, along with sections of the original city wall and other large townhouses along the start of Unthank Road (named after the Unthank family, local landowners).[65] The roundabout also required the north-west corner of Chapelfield Gardens to be demolished. About a mile of Georgian and Victorian houses along Chapelfield Road and Queens Road, including many houses built into the city walls, were bulldozed in 1964. This included the surrounding district off Vauxhall Street, consisting of swathes of terrace housing which were condemned as slums, as well as the whole West Pottergate district, which contained a mix of 18th and 19th-century cottages and terraced housing. Post-war housing and maisonettes flats now stand where the Rookery slums once did. Some aspects of The '45 Plan were put into action, which saw large three-story Edwardian houses in Grove Avenue and Grove Road, and other large properties on Southwell Road, demolished in 1962 to make way for flat-roofed single-story style maisonettes that still stand today.[66] Heigham Hall, a large Victorian manor house off Old Palace Road was also demolished in 1963, to build Dolphin Grove flats, which housed many Norwich families displaced by slum clearance.
Other housing developments in the private and public sector took place after the Second World War, partly to accommodate the growing population of the city and to replace condemned and bomb-damaged areas, such as the Heigham Grove district between Barn Road and Old Palace Road, where some 200 terraced houses, shops and pubs were all flattened. Only St Barnabas church and one public house, The West End Retreat, now remain. Another central street bulldozed during the 1960s was St Stephens Street. It was widened, clearing away many historically significant buildings in the process, firstly for Norwich Union's new office blocks and shortly after with new buildings, after it suffered damage during the Baedeker raids. In Surrey Street, several grand six-storey Georgian townhouses were demolished to make way for Norwich Union's office. Other notable buildings that were lost were three theatres (the Norwich Hippodrome on St Giles Street, which is now a multi-storey car park, the Grosvenor Rooms and Electric Theatre in Prince of Wales Road) The Norwich Corn Exchange in Exchange Street, the Free Library in Duke Street and the Great Eastern Hotel, which faced Norwich Station. It has been said that more of Norwich's architecture was destroyed by the council in post-war redevelopment schemes than during the Second World War.
Other events
In 1976 the city's pioneering spirit was on show when Motum Road in Norwich, allegedly the scene of "a number of accidents over the years", became the third road in Britain to be equipped with sleeping policemen, intended to encourage adherence to the road's 30 miles per hour (48 km/h) speed limit.[67] The bumps, installed at intervals of 50 and 150 yards, stretched 12 feet across the width of the road and their curved profile was, at its highest point, 4 inches (10 cm) high.[67] The responsible quango gave an assurance that the experimental devices would be removed not more than one year after installation.[67]
From 1980 to 1985 the city became a frequent focus of national media due to squatting in Argyle Street, a Victorian street that was demolished in 1986, despite being the last street to survive the Richmond Hill redevelopment. On 23 November 1981, a minor F0/T1 tornado struck Norwich as part of a record-breaking nationwide tornado outbreak, causing minor damage in Norwich city centre and surrounding suburbs.[68]
Government
City and county councils
Norwich has been governed by two tiers of local government since the implementation of the Local Government Act 1972. The upper tier is Norfolk County Council, which manages strategic services such as schools, social services and libraries across the county of Norfolk. The lower is Norwich City Council, which manages local services such as housing, planning, leisure and tourism.[69]
Norwich elects 13 county councillors to the 84-member county council. The city divides into single-member electoral divisions, with county councillors elected every four years.[70]
Norwich City Council consists of 39 councillors elected to 13 wards — three per ward. Elections are held by thirds, with one councillor in each ward elected annually for a four-year term, except in the year of county council elections.[71] As a result of ward boundary changes, all 39 seats were contested in the 2019 Norwich City Council election. Since the 2019 election, the distribution of council seats is Labour 27, Green Party 9, and Liberal Democrats 3, with Labour retaining overall control.
Lord mayoralty and shrievalty
The ceremonial head of the city is the Lord Mayor; though now simply a ceremonial position, in the past the office carried considerable authority, with executive powers over the finances and affairs of the city council. In 2019–2020, the Lord Mayor is Councillor Vaughan Thomas, and the Sheriff, Dr Marian Prinsley.[72] The office of Mayor of Norwich dates from 1403 and was raised to the dignity of lord mayor in 1910 by Edward VII "in view of the position occupied by that city as the chief city of East Anglia and of its close association with His Majesty".[73][74] The title was regranted on local government reorganisation in 1974.[75] From 1404 the citizens of Norwich, as a county corporate, had the privilege of electing two sheriffs. Under the Municipal Corporations Act 1835 this was reduced to one and became a ceremonial post. Both Lord Mayor and Sheriff are elected at the council's annual meeting.[73][76]
Unitary status proposal
In October 2006, the Department for Communities and Local Government produced a Local Government White Paper inviting councils to submit proposals for unitary restructuring. Norwich submitted its proposal in January 2007, which was rejected in December 2007, as it did not meet all the rigorous criteria for acceptance. In February 2008, the Boundary Committee for England (from 1 April 2010 incorporated in the Local Government Boundary Commission for England), was asked to consider alternative proposals for the whole or part of Norfolk, including whether Norwich should become a unitary authority, separate from Norfolk County Council. In December 2009, the Boundary Committee recommended a single unitary authority covering all Norfolk including Norwich.[77][78][79][80]
However, in February 2010 it was announced that despite the December 2009 recommendation of the Boundary Committee, Norwich would be given separate unitary status.[81] The proposed change was strongly resisted, principally by Norfolk County Council and the Conservative opposition in Parliament.[82] Reacting to the announcement, Norfolk County Council said it would look to challenge the decision in the courts.[83] A letter was leaked to the local media, in which the Permanent Secretary for the Department for Communities and Local Government noted that the decision did not meet all the criteria and that the risk of it "being successfully challenged in judicial review proceedings is very high."[84] The Shadow Local Government and Planning Minister, Bob Neill, stated that if the Conservative Party won the 2010 general election, it would reverse the decision.[85]
After the 2010 general election, Eric Pickles was appointed Secretary of State for Communities and Local Government in a Conservative–Liberal Democrat coalition government. According to press reports, he instructed his department to take urgent steps to reverse the decision and maintain the status quo in line with the Conservative Party manifesto.[86][87] However, the unitary plans were supported by the Liberal Democrat group on the city council, and by Simon Wright, LibDem MP for Norwich South, who intended to lobby the party leadership to allow the changes to go ahead.[88]
The Local Government Act 2010 to reverse the unitary decision for Norwich (and Exeter and Suffolk) received Royal Assent in December 2010. The disputed award of unitary status had meanwhile been referred to the High Court, and in June 2010 the court ruled it unlawful and revoked it; the city failed to attain unitary status.[89]
Westminster
Since 1298 Norwich has returned two members of parliament to the House of Commons. Until 1950 the city was an undivided constituency, returning two MPs. Since that date, the area has been divided between two single-member constituencies: Norwich North and Norwich South.[90] Both constituencies have proved to be marginal seats in recent elections, until 2010 switching between the Labour and Conservative parties.
Norwich North, which includes some rural wards of Broadland District, was held by Labour from 1950 to 1983 when it was gained by the Conservatives. Labour regained the seat in 1997, holding it until a by-election in 2009. The current MP is the Conservative, Chloe Smith, who held the seat in the 2015 General Election.[91] Norwich South, which includes part of South Norfolk District, was held by Labour from February 1974 to 1983, when it was gained by the Conservatives. John Garrett regained the seat for Labour in 1987. Charles Clarke became Labour MP for Norwich South in 1997.[92] In the 2010 General Election, Labour lost the seat to the Liberal Democrats, with Simon Wright becoming MP.[93] At the 2015 General Election, Clive Lewis regained the seat for Labour.[94]
In both the 2017 General Election and 2019 General Election, the two incumbent 2015 MPs held their seats.[95]
Demography
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The United Kingdom Census 2011 reported a resident population for the City of Norwich of 132,512, a 9 per cent increase over the 2001 census.[97] The urban or built-up area of Norwich had a population of 213,166 according to the 2011 census.[5] This area extends beyond the city boundary, with extensive suburban areas on the western, northern and eastern sides, including Costessey, Taverham, Hellesdon, Bowthorpe, Old Catton, Sprowston and Thorpe St Andrew. The parliamentary seats cross over into adjacent local-government districts. The population of the Norwich Travel to Work Area (i. e. the self-contained labour-market area in and around Norwich in which most people live and commute to work) is 282,000 (mid-2009 estimate).[7] Norwich is the fourth most densely populated local government district in the East of England, with 3,480 people per square kilometre (8,993 per square mile).
In 2011 the racial composition of Norwich's population was 90.9% White (84.7% White British, 0.7% White Irish, 0.1% Gypsy or Irish Traveller, 5.4% Other White), 4.5% Asian (1.3% Indian, 0.2% Pakistani, 0.4% Bangladeshi, 1.3% Chinese, 1.3% Other Asian), 2.3% of mixed race (0.5% White and Black Caribbean, 0.5% White and Black African, 0.7% White and Asian, 0.6% Other Mixed), 1.6% Black (1.3% African, 0.2% Caribbean, 0.1% Other Black), 0.5% Arab and 0.4% of other ethnic heritage.[98] In terms of religion, 44.9% of the population are Christian, 2% are Muslim, 0.8% are Hindu, 0.7% are Buddhist, 0.2% are Jewish, 0.1% are Sikh, 0.7% belong to another religion, 42.5% have no religion and 8.2% did not state their religion.[99] In both the 2001 and 2011 censuses, Norwich was found to be the least religious city in England, with the largest proportion of respondents with no reported religion, compared to 25.1% across England and Wales.[100]
The largest quinary group consists of the 20 to 24-year-olds (14.6%) because of the large university student population.[101]
Education
Primary and secondary
The city has 56 primary schools (including 16 academies and free schools) and 13 secondary schools, 11 of which are academies.[102] The city's eight independent schools include Norwich School and the Norwich High School for Girls.[102] There are also five schools for children with learning disabilities.[103]
The former Norwich High School for Boys, in Upper St Giles Street, has a blue plaque commemorating Sir John Mills, who was a pupil there.[104]
Universities and colleges
Norwich has two universities, the University of East Anglia and Norwich University of the Arts. The student population of the city is around 15,000, many of whom come from overseas.[105] The University of East Anglia was founded in 1963 and is located on the outskirts of the city. It has a creative writing programme, established by Malcolm Bradbury and Angus Wilson, whose graduates include Kazuo Ishiguro and Ian McEwan. It has done work on climate research and climate change. The university campus is the home of the Sainsbury Centre for Visual Arts, which houses several important art collections. The Norwich University of the Arts dates back to 1845 as the Norwich School of Design. Founded by artists and followers of the Norwich School art movement, it was established to provide designers for local industries. Previously a specialist art school (as the Norwich School of Art and Design), it achieved university status in 2013.
Norwich has three further education colleges. City College Norwich, situated on Ipswich Road, was founded in 1891 and is one of the largest such colleges in the country.[106] Access to Music is located on Magdalen Street at Epic Studios, and Easton & Otley College's Easton Campus is located 7 miles (11 km) west of the city.[107]
Culture and attractions
Historically Norwich has been associated with art, literature and publishing, which continues to the present day. Norwich was the site of the first provincial library in England, which opened in 1608, and was the first city to implement the Public Libraries Act 1850.[108] The Norwich Post was the first provincial newspaper outside London, first published in 1701.[108] The Norwich School of artists was the first provincial art movement, with nationally acclaimed artists such as John Crome associated with the movement.[109] Other literary firsts associated with the city include Julian of Norwich's Revelations of Divine Love, published in 1395, which was the first book written in the English language by a woman, and the first poem written in blank verse, composed by Henry Howard, Earl of Surrey, in the 16th century.[108]
Today the city is a regional centre for publishing, with 5 per cent of the UK's independent publishing sector based in the city in 2012.[108] In 2006 Norwich became the UK's first City of Refuge, part of the International Cities of Refuge Network (ICORN) which promotes free speech.[108] Norwich made the shortlist for the first city to be designated UK City of Culture, but in July 2010 it was announced that Derry had been selected.[110] In May 2012 Norwich was designated as England's first UNESCO City of Literature.[111]
Attractions
Norwich is a popular destination for a city break. Attractions include Norwich Cathedral, the cobbled streets and museums of old Norwich, Norwich Castle, Cow Tower, Dragon Hall and The Forum. Norwich is one of the UK's top ten shopping destinations, with a mix of chain retailers and independent stores as well as Norwich Market, one of the largest outdoor markets in England.
The Forum, designed by Michael Hopkins and Partners and opened in 2002 is a building designed to house the Norfolk and Norwich Millennium Library, a replacement for the Norwich Central Library building which burnt down in 1994, and the regional headquarters and television centre for BBC East. In 2006–2013 it was most visited library in the UK, with 1.3 million visits in 2013.[112] The collections contains the 2nd Air Division Memorial Library, a collection of material about American culture and the American relationship with East Anglia, especially the role of the United States Air Force on UK airbases throughout the Second World War and Cold War. Much of the collection was lost in the 1994 fire, but the collection has been restored by contributions from many veterans of the war, both European and American. The building also provides a venue for art exhibitions, concerts and events, although the city still lacks a dedicated concert venue.
Recent attempts to shed the backwater image of Norwich and market it as a popular tourist destination, as well as a centre for science, commerce, culture and the arts, have included the refurbishment of the Norwich Castle Museum and the opening of the Forum. The proposed new slogan for Norwich as England's Other City has been the subject of much discussion and controversy. It remains to be seen whether it will be finally adopted. A number of signs at the approaches to the city still display the traditional phrase: "Norwich — a fine city".
The city promotes its architectural heritage through a collection of notable buildings in Norwich called the "Norwich 12". The group consists of: Norwich Castle, Norwich Cathedral, The Great Hospital, St Andrew's Hall and Blackfriars' Hall, The Guildhall, Dragon Hall, The Assembly House, St James Mill, St John the Baptist RC Cathedral, Surrey House, City Hall and The Forum.
Art and music
Each year the Norfolk and Norwich Festival celebrates the arts, drawing many visitors into the city from all over eastern England. The Norwich Twenty Group, founded in 1944, presents exhibitions of its members to promote awareness of modern art. Norwich was home to the first arts festival in Britain in 1772.[113]
Norwich Arts Centre is a notable live music venue, concert hall and theatre located in St Benedict's Street. The King of Hearts in Fye Bridge Street is another centre for art and music. Norwich has a thriving music scene based around local venues such as the University of East Anglia LCR, Norwich Arts Centre, The Waterfront and Epic Studios. Live music, mostly contemporary musical genres, is also to be heard at a number of other public house and club venues around the city. The city is host to many artists that have achieved national and international recognition such as Cord, The Kabeedies, Serious Drinking, Tim Bowness, Sennen, Magoo, Let's Eat Grandma and KaitO.
Norwich was selected to host the 2015 BBC Radio 1 Big Weekend. The event was held on 23–24 May in Earlham Park.[114]
Established record labels in Norwich include All Sorted Records,[115] NR ONE,[116] Hungry Audio and Burning Shed.
British artist Stella Vine lived in Norwich from the age of seven,[117] including for a short while in Argyle Street, Norwich and again later in life with her son Jamie. Vine depicted the city in a large painting, Welcome to Norwich a fine city (2006).[118]
Theatres
Norwich has theatres ranging in capacity from 100 to 1,300 seats and offering a wide variety of programmes. The Theatre Royal is the largest and has been on its present site for nearly 250 years, through several rebuildings and many alterations. It has 1,300 seats and hosts a mix of national touring productions including musicals, dance, drama, family shows, stand-up comedians, opera and pop.
The Maddermarket Theatre opened in 1921 as the first permanent recreation of an Elizabethan theatre. The founder was Nugent Monck who had worked with William Poel. The theatre is a Shakespearean-style playhouse and has a seating capacity of 310. Norwich Puppet Theatre was founded in 1979 by Ray and Joan DaSilva as a permanent base for their touring company and was first opened as a public venue in 1980, following the conversion of the medieval church of St. James in the heart of Norwich. Under subsequent artistic directors — Barry Smith and Luis Z. Boy — the theatre established its current pattern of operation. It is a nationally unique venue dedicated to puppetry, and currently houses a 185-seat raked auditorium, the 50-seat Octagon Studio, workshops, an exhibition gallery, shop and licensed bar. It is the only theatre in the Eastern region with a year-round programme of family-centred entertainment. Norwich Arts Centre theatre opened in 1977 in St Benedict's Street, and has a capacity of 290. The Norwich Playhouse, which opened in 1995 and has a seating capacity of 300, is a venue in the heart of the city and one of the most modern performance spaces of its size in East Anglia.
The Garage studio theatre can seat up to 110 people in a range of layouts. It can also be used for standing events to accommodate up to 180 people. Platform Theatre is in the grounds of the City College Norwich. Productions are staged mainly during the autumn and summer months. The theatre is raked and seats about 250 people. On 20 April 2012, the theatre held a large relaunch event with an evening performance, show-casing it at its best with previews of upcoming performances and scenes from some of its past performances.[119]
The Whiffler Theatre was built in 1981 and was given to the people of Norwich by the local newspaper group Eastern Daily Press. It is an open-air facility in Norwich Castle Gardens, with fixed-raked seating for up to 80 people and standing for another 30 on the balcony. The stage is brick-built and has its dressing-rooms set in a small building to stage left. The Whiffler mainly plays host to small Shakespeare productions. Sewell Barn Theatre is the smallest theatre in Norwich and has a seating capacity of just 100. The auditorium features raked seating on three sides of an open acting space. This unusual staging helps to draw the audience closer into the performance.
Public performance spaces include the Forum in the city centre, which has a large open-air amphitheatre, hosting performances of many types throughout the year. Additionally, the cloisters of Norwich Cathedral are used for open-air performances as part of an annual Shakespeare festival.[120]
Museums
Norwich has a number of important museums which reflect the rich history of the city and of Norfolk, as well as wider interests. The largest is the Norwich Castle Museum. This has extensive collections of archaeological finds from the county of Norfolk, of art (including a fine collection of paintings by the Norwich School of painters), of ceramics (including the largest collection of British teapots), of silver, and of natural history. Of particular interest are dioramas of Norfolk scenery, showing wildlife and landscape. It has been extensively remodelled to enhance the display of the many collections and hosts frequent temporary exhibitions of art and other subjects.[121]
The Museum of Norwich (until 2014 called The Bridewell Museum), in Bridewell Alley, was closed in 2010 for major refurbishment of the building and overhaul of the displays,[122] and re-opened in July 2012.[123][124] There are several galleries and groups of displays. These include "Life in Norwich: Our City 1900–1945"; "Life in Norwich: Our City 1945 Onwards"; and "England's Second City" depicting Norwich in the 18th century. "Made in Norwich", "Industrious City" and "Shoemakers" have exhibits connected with the historic industries of Norwich, including weaving, shoe and boot making, iron foundries and the manufacture of metal goods, engineering, milling, brewing, chocolate-making and other food manufacturing. "Shopping and Trading" contains exhibits from the early 19th century to the 1960s.[125]
Strangers' Hall, at Charing Cross, is one of the oldest buildings in Norwich: a merchant's house dating from the early 14th century. The many rooms are furnished and equipped in the styles of different eras, from the Early Tudor to the Late Victorian. Exhibits include costumes and textiles, domestic objects, children's toys and games, and children's books. The last two collections are considered to be of national importance.[126]
The Royal Norfolk Regimental Museum was, until 2011, housed in part of the former Shirehall, close to the castle. Although archives and the reserve collections are still held in the Shirehall, the principal museum display there closed in September 2011 and was relocated to the main Norwich Castle Museum, reopening fully in 2013.[127] Its exhibits illustrate the history of the regiment from its 17th-century origins to its incorporation into the Royal Anglian Regiment in 1964, along with many aspects of military life in the regiment. There is an extensive and representative display of medals awarded to soldiers of the regiment, including two of the six Victoria Crosses won.[128][129]
The City of Norwich Aviation Museum is located at Horsham St. Faith, on the northern edge of the city and close to Norwich Airport. There are static displays of both military and civil aircraft, together with various collections of exhibits, including one concerned with the United States 8th Army Air Force.[130]
The John Jarrold Printing Museum is dedicated to the history of printing, contains many examples of printing machinery, presses, books, and related equipment, and is considered to be of both national and international importance.[131] Exhibits range in date from the early 19th century to the present day and, as well as static exhibits, machinery and equipment is demonstrated in use. Many items were donated by Jarrold Printing.[132] In November 2018, redevelopment plans for the museum site at Whitefriars caused some uncertainty about its future.[133][134] The museum closed its Whitefriars premises on 23 October 2019, with a plan to relocate to the vacant medieval church of St Peter Parmentergate in King Street in 2020.[135][136] However, in January 2020, it was found that the proposed King Street site is unsuitable for the machinery which was to be displayed and operated there. The museum trustees continue with their search for suitable premises.[137]
Dragon Hall, in King Street, is a fine example of a medieval merchants' trading hall. Mostly dating from about 1430, it is unique in Western Europe. In 2006 the building underwent a thorough restoration. Its magnificent architecture is complemented by displays showing the history of the building and its role in the life of Norwich through the ages. The Norwich Castle Study Centre, at the Shirehall in Market Avenue, contains a number of important collections, including an extensive collection of more than 20,000 costume and textile items, built up over a period of some 130 years, and previously kept in other Norwich museums. Although not a publicly open museum in the usual sense, items in the collections are accessible to the general public, students, researchers and others by prior appointment.[138]
Entertainment
Norwich has three cinema complexes. Odeon Norwich is located in the Riverside Leisure Centre, Vue inside the Castle Mall and previously the Hollywood Cinema (closed 2019)[139] at Anglia Square, north of the city centre. Cinema City is an art-house cinema showing non-mainstream productions operated by Picturehouse on St Andrews Street opposite St Andrew's Hall, whose patron was actor John Hurt.[140] Owing to its agricultural history, Norwich has a large number of pubs throughout the city. Prince of Wales Road in the city centre, running from the Riverside district near Norwich railway station to Norwich Castle, is home to many pubs, bars and clubs.
Media and film
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Norwich is the headquarters of BBC East, its presence in the east of England, and BBC Radio Norfolk, BBC Look East, Inside Out and The Politics Show are all broadcast from BBC studios in The Forum. Independent radio stations based in Norwich include Heart, Smooth Radio, 99.9 Radio Norwich, and the University of East Anglia's Livewire 1350, an online station. A community station, Future Radio, was launched on 6 August 2007.
ITV Anglia, formerly Anglia Television, is based in Norwich. Although one of the smaller ITV companies, it supplied the network with some of its most popular shows such as Tales of the Unexpected, Survival and Sale of the Century (1971–1983), which began each edition with John Benson's enthusiastic announcement: "And now from Norwich, it's the quiz of the week!" The company also had a subsidiary called Anglia Multimedia, which produced educational content on CD and DVD mainly for schools, and was one of the three companies, along with Granada TV and the BBC vying for the right to produce a digital television station for English schools and colleges.
Launched in 1959, Anglia Television lost its independence in 1994 following a takeover by Meridian Broadcasting and subsequent mergers have seen it reduced from a significant producer of programmes to a regional news centre. The company is still based in Anglia House, the former Norfolk and Norwich Agricultural Hall, on Agricultural Hall Plain near Prince of Wales Road. However, despite the contraction of Anglia, television production in Norwich has by no means ended. Anglia's former network production centre at Magdalen Street has been taken over by Norfolk County Council and extensively re-vamped. After a total investment of £4 million from the East of England Development Agency (EEDA) it has re-opened as Epic Studios (East of England Production Innovation Centre). Degree courses in film and video are also run at the centre by Norwich University of the Arts. Epic has commercial, broadcast quality post-production facilities, a real-time virtual studio and a smaller HD discussion studio. The main studio opened as an HD facility in November 2008. Throughout 2008, the centre has concentrated on the development of new TV formats and has worked on pilot shows with Les Dennis, Gaby Roslin and Christopher Biggins.
Archant publishes two daily newspapers in Norwich, the Norwich Evening News, and the regional Eastern Daily Press (EDP), and had its own television operation, Mustard TV, which has now closed after being bought out by the That's TV group. Mustard TV is now That's Norfolk.
The character of Alan Partridge in the sitcom I'm Alan Partridge (1997–2002) and the comedy film Alan Partridge: Alpha Papa (2013) is a Norwich broadcaster played by Steve Coogan.
Esoteric associations
Because Norwich was England's second city during the Middle Ages and Renaissance, it has, though little acknowledged, a number of significant associations with esoteric spirituality. It was the home of William Cuningham, a physician who published An Invective Epistle in Defense of Astrologers in 1560.[141] The Elizabethan dramatist Robert Greene, author of Friar Bacon and Friar Bungay, was born in Norwich in 1558. The city was also the retirement residence of Arthur Dee (died Norwich, 1651) the eldest son of the alchemist John Dee[142][143]
Norwich was also the residence of the physician and hermetic philosopher Sir Thomas Browne, author of The Garden of Cyrus (1658). Many influential esoteric books-titles are listed as once in Browne's library.[144] His coffin-plate, on display at the church of St Peter Mancroft, alludes to Paracelsian medicine and alchemy. Translated from Latin it reads, Great Virtues, … sleeping here the dust of his spagyric body converts the lead to gold. Browne is also a significant figure in the history of physiognomy.
The Church of St John Maddermarket's graveyard includes the Crabtree headstone, which has the pre-Christian symbol of the Ouroboros along with Masonic Square and Compasses carved upon it. Housed within the church there is the Layer Monument, a rare example of an alchemical mandala in European funerary art.[145]
From 1787 the congregation of the New Jerusalem Church of Swedenborgians, followers of the mystic Emanuel Swedenborg, worshipped at the church of St. Mary the Less; in 1852 they moved to Park Lane, Norwich to establish the Swedenborgian Chapel.[146][147]
Architecture
Norwich has a wealth of historical architecture. The medieval period is represented by the 11th-century Norwich Cathedral, 12th-century castle (now a museum) and a large number of parish churches. During the Middle Ages, 57 churches stood within the city wall; 31 still exist today, and seven are still used for worship.[148] This gave rise to the common regional saying that it had a church for every week of the year, and a pub for every day. Norwich is said to have more standing medieval churches than any city north of the Alps.[100] The Adam and Eve pub is believed to be the oldest pub in the city,[149] with the earliest known reference made in 1249.[150] Most of the medieval buildings are in the city centre. Notable examples of secular medieval architecture are Dragon Hall, built in about 1430, and The Guildhall, built 1407–1413, with later additions. From the 18th century, the pre-eminent local name is Thomas Ivory, who built the Assembly Rooms (1776), the Octagon Chapel (1756), St Helen's House (1752) in the grounds of the Great Hospital, and innovative speculative housing in Surrey Street (c. 1761). Ivory should not be confused with the Irish architect of the same name and similar period.
The 19th century saw an explosion in Norwich's size and much of its housing stock, as well as commercial building in the city centre, dates from this period. The local architect of the Victorian and Edwardian periods who has continued to command most critical respect was George Skipper (1856–1948). Examples of his work include the headquarters of Norwich Union on Surrey Street; the Art Nouveau Royal Arcade; and the Hotel de Paris in the nearby seaside town of Cromer. The neo-Gothic Roman Catholic cathedral dedicated to St John the Baptist on Earlham Road, begun in 1882, is by George Gilbert Scott Junior and his brother, John Oldrid Scott.
The city continued to grow through the 20th century, and much housing, particularly in areas further out from the city centre, dates from that century. The first notable building post-Skipper was the City Hall by CH James and SR Pierce, opened in 1938; at the same time, they moved the City War Memorial, designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens, to sit in a memorial garden between the city hall and the market place. Bombing during the Second World War, while resulting in relatively little loss of life, caused significant damage to the housing stock in the city centre. Much of the postwar replacement stock was designed by the local-authority architect, David Percival. However, the major postwar development in Norwich from an architectural point of view was the opening of the University of East Anglia in 1964. Originally designed by Denys Lasdun (his design was never completely executed), it has been added to over subsequent decades by major names such as Norman Foster and Rick Mather.
Norwich Cathedral lies close to Tombland in the city centre.
Elm Hill is an intact medieval street.
Cow Tower stands on the banks of the River Wensum.
The varying styles of architecture along Gentleman's Walk
Parks, gardens and open spaces
See also List of parks, gardens and open spaces in Norwich
Chapelfield Gardens in central Norwich became the city's first public park in November 1880. From the start of the 20th century, Norwich Corporation, now Norwich City Council, began buying and leasing land to develop parks when funds became available. Sewell Park and James Stuart Gardens are examples of land donated by benefactors.
After World War I the corporation took advantage of government grants and made the decision to construct a series of formal parks as a means to alleviate unemployment. Under the guidance of Parks Superintendent Captain Sandys-Winsch[151] four parks were completed; Heigham Park (1924), Wensum Park (1925), Eaton Park (1928), Waterloo Park (1933). These parks retain many features from Sandys-Winsch's original plans and have been placed on the English Heritage Register of Parks and Gardens of Special Historic Interest.[152]
As of 2015, the city has 23 parks, 95 open spaces and 59 natural areas managed by the local authority.[153] In addition, there are several privately owned gardens which are occasionally opened to the public in aid of charity[154] with the exception of the Plantation Garden[155] located close to the St John the Baptist Cathedral which opens daily.
Sport
The principal local football club is Norwich City, also known as the Canaries. In the 2018–2019 season it finished first in the second tier of English football, the Championship, earning promotion to the Premier League for the 2019-2020 season. Majority-owned by celebrity chef Delia Smith and her husband Michael Wynn-Jones, its ground is the Carrow Road Stadium. It has a strong East Anglian rivalry with Ipswich Town. The club has enjoyed considerable success in the past, having played in the top division regularly since 1972, its longest spell being a nine-year run from 1986 to 1995. It has also won two Football League Cups and finished third in the inaugural Premier League in 1993. Norwich City FC was relegated two years later and did not reclaim its top-flight place for nine years, going down again after just one season, only to return in 2011 after two successive promotions.
Perhaps Norwich City's most famous result to date came later in 1993, when it eliminated the German giants Bayern Munich from the UEFA Cup, in what is to date its only season in European competitions; it had qualified for the UEFA Cup three times between 1985 and 1989 but they were unable to compete as there was a ban on English clubs in European competitions at the time. Before emerging as a top division club, it famously eliminated Manchester United from the FA Cup in 1959, and went on to reach the semi-finals of the domestic cup competition, a run it achieved again in 1989 and most recently in 1992. In the 1980s and early 1990s, the club produced some of the most highly rated talent of that era, including striker Chris Sutton, winger Ruel Fox, defender Andy Linighan, midfielder Mike Phelan, midfielder Tim Sherwood and striker Justin Fashanu. The club's most successful managers have included Ken Brown, Ron Saunders, Dave Stringer, Mike Walker, Nigel Worthington and Paul Lambert.
The city's second club, Norwich United (which is based in Blofield some 5 miles (8.0 km) east of the city), along with Norwich CBS, plays in the Eastern Counties League. The now-defunct Gothic was also based in Norwich. Local football clubs are served by the Norwich and District Saturday Football League.
Norwich also has an athletics club, City of Norwich AC (CoNAC), a rugby club, the Norwich Lions, and a handball Club, Norwich HC.
Norwich has five field hockey clubs. In the 2012–2013 season, the club playing at the highest level on the men's side was Norwich City Hockey Club[156] in the East Hockey Premier B, which is two levels below the National League. The second highest is Norwich Dragons in Division Two North, then the students only University of East Anglia Men's Hockey Club in Division Three North East, then Norfolk Nomads Men's Hockey Club in Division Six North East. On the Ladies' side of the game, both Norwich City Hockey Club and Norwich Dragons Hockey club play in East Hockey's Division One North, two levels below National League. Following them the students from the University of East Anglia Women's Hockey Club play in the Norfolk Premier Division. Also in Norwich, there is a veterans-only side, Norwich Exiles.
Outside the city boundary, the dry ski and snowboarding slopes of Norfolk Ski Club is located at Whitlingham Lane in Trowse. Located close by in the parish of Whitlingham is the Whitlingham Country Park[157] home to the Outdoor Education Centre.[158] The centre is based on the south bank of the Great Broad which is also used by scuba divers from one of the city's three diving schools and other water and land sports.[159]
Norwich has two main rowing clubs. The Yare Boat Club, which is the older but smaller of the two, is based on an island on the River Yare accessed from beside the Rivergarden pub on Thorpe Road, Norwich. The larger Norwich Rowing Club, in partnership with Norwich Canoe Club, UEA Boat Club, Norwich School Boat Club and Norwich High School Rowing Club, has built a new boathouse alongside Whitlingham Little Broad and the River Yare. Norwich Canoe Club[160] specialises in sprint and marathon racing. It holds the highest British Canoe Union Top Club Gold accreditation,[161] and is one of the more successful clubs in the UK. Ian Wynne, 2004 Olympics K1 500m bronze medallist, is an honorary member.
Speedway racing was staged in Norwich before and after World War II at The Firs Stadium on the Holt Road, Hellesdon. The Norwich Stars raced in the Northern League of 1946 and the National League Division Two between 1947 and 1951, winning it in 1951. They were later elevated to the National League and raced at the top flight until the stadium was closed at the end of the 1964 season.[162] One meeting was staged at a venue at Hevingham, but without an official permit, and it did not lead to a revival of the sport in the Norwich area.
In boxing, Norwich can boast former European and British lightweight champion Jon Thaxton,[163] reigning English light heavyweight champion Danny McIntosh[164] and heavyweight Sam Sexton, a former winner of the Prizefighter tournament.[165] Based in Norwich-Herbie Hide has been WBO Heavyweight World Champion twice. He won the championship in 1994–95 and for a second time in 1997.[166]
Norwich has a UK baseball team, the Norwich Iceni, which competes compete at the Single A level of the BBF.[167] The team was founded in 2015 with players from the UEA Blue Sox who wished to carry on playing after university. The team officially joined the league in 2017 and was crowned BBF Single A champions in its first season, going undefeated with 17 wins.[168]
Statistics
Norwich was the second city of England (after London) for several centuries before industrialisation, which came late to Norwich due to its isolation and lack of raw materials.
In November 2006 the city was voted the greenest in the UK.[169] There is currently an initiative taking place to make it a transition town. Norwich has recently been the scene of open discussions in public spaces, known as "meet in the street", that cover social and political issues.[170]
Articles in the past have suggested that, compared with other UK cities, Norwich was top of the league for the percentage of population who use the popular Internet auction site eBay.[171] The city also unveiled the biggest free Wi-Fi network in the UK, which opened in July 2006.[172]
In August 2007 Norwich was listed as one of nine finalists in its population group for the International Awards for Liveable Communities.[173] The city eventually won a silver award in the small-city category.
Economy and infrastructure
Norwich's economy was historically manufacturing-based, including a large shoemaking industry, but it transitioned through the 1980s and 1990s into a service-based economy.[174]
The greater Norwich economy (which includes Norwich, Broadland and South Norfolk government districts) as measured by GVA was estimated at £7.4 billion in 2011 (2011 GVA at 2006 prices).[175] The city's largest employment sectors are business and financial services (31%), public services (26%), retail (12%), manufacturing (8%) and tourism (7%).[176]
Unemployment in urban Norwich and the Norwich City Council area was 2.7% and 3.7% respectively in January 2014, compared to 3% across Great Britain.[177]
New developments on the former Boulton and Paul site include the Riverside entertainment complex with nightclubs and other venues featuring the usual national leisure brands. Nearby, the football stadium is being upgraded with more residential property development alongside the river Wensum.
Archant, formerly known as Eastern Counties Newspapers (ECN), is a national publishing group that has grown out of the city's local newspapers and is headquartered in Norwich.
Norwich has long been associated with the manufacture of mustard. The world-famous Colman's brand, with its yellow packaging, was founded in 1814 and operated from a factory at Carrow, latterly under the ownership of Unilever. This site was closed in 2019, with mustard now being produced by Condimentum at Honingham, in a supply deal with Unilever.[178][179] Colman's is exported worldwide, putting Norwich on the map of British heritage brands. The Colman's Mustard Shop, which sold Colman's products and related gifts, was until 2017 located in the Royal Arcade in the centre of Norwich, but closed in that year without any prospect of reopening elsewhere.[180]
Situated to the south-west of the city is the Norwich Research Park. It comprises a community of research organisations with world-leading science credentials, including the Institute of Food Research and the John Innes Centre, as well as over 30 science and technology-based businesses, the University of East Anglia and the Norfolk and Norwich University Hospital.
Norwich's night-time economy of bars and night clubs is mainly located in Tombland, Prince of Wales Road and the Riverside area adjacent to Norwich railway station.
Retail
Norwich was the eighth most prosperous shopping destination in the UK in 2006.[181] Norwich has an ancient market place, established by the Normans between 1071 and 1074, which is today the largest six-days-a-week open-air market in England. In 2006, the market was downsized and redeveloped, and the new market stalls have proved controversial: with 20% less floor space than the original stalls, higher rental and other charges, and inadequate rainwater handling, which has been unpopular with many stallholders and customers alike. In 2007 the local Norwich Evening News characterised Norwich Market as an ongoing conflict between the market traders and Norwich City Council, which operates the market.[182]
The Castle Quarter, a shopping centre designed by the local practice Lambert, Scott & Innes and opened in 1993, presents an ingenious solution to the problem of accommodating new retail space in a historic city-centre environment — the building is largely concealed underground and built into the side of a hill, with a public park created on its roof in the area south of the castle.
A second shopping mall, Intu Chapelfield (formally known as Chapelfield) was opened in 2005 on the site of a closed Caley's (later Rowntree Mackintosh and Nestlé) chocolate factory. Chapelfield opened in September 2005, featuring as its flagship department store House of Fraser. Detractors have criticised Chapelfield as unnecessary and damaging to local businesses; its presence has prompted smaller retailers to band together to promote the virtues of independent shops. Despite this, in August 2006 it was reported by the Javelin Group that Norwich was one of the top five retail destinations in the UK,[183] and in October 2006 the city centre was voted the best in the UK, in a shopping satisfaction survey run by Goldfish Credit Card.[184]
A section of central Norwich, in an area approximately bounded by Bethel Street/Upper St Giles Street, Grapes Hill, St Benedict's and St Andrew's Hill/London Street/Castle Meadow, forms a quarter now known, and promoted, as Norwich Lanes. A series of mostly-pedestrianised small lanes, alleyways and streets, it is noted for its independent retailers, and eating and drinking establishments. The area also contains a number of the city's cultural attractions, including museums, theatres and other venues. As part of a nationwide drive to recognise the importance, and to maintain the character and individuality of Britain's high streets, Norwich Lanes was the Great British High Street Awards 2014 national winner in the "City" category.[185]
To the north of the city centre is the Anglia Square shopping centre. The centre and the surrounding area is to be redeveloped; demolition work was due to commence in 2010 after an archaeological dig (conducted in 2009 and due to the centre being located around the site of a Saxon fortified settlement). The new development is planned to be a mixture of shops and housing, unlike the original which consisted of offices, shops and a cinema.[186] In February 2009, it was announced that, due to the economic climate, plans for the area have been delayed and the developers are unable to say for certain when work will commence.[187]
In 2014, the centre was bought by investment manager Threadneedle Investments for £7.5 million.[188]
The current owners and their partner Weston Homes announced in November 2016, they have been holding talks with chief officers at Norwich City Hall. Plans submitted include the demolition of Anglia Square, the former stationery office and Gildengate House. More than 1000 homes are planned to be built above shop units and a new public square.[189][190]
In early 2018, Weston Homes and landowner Columbia Threadneedle submitted regeneration plans for the site. These include 1200 homes, major supermarket, hotel, green squares and central courtyards.[191]
Electricity supply
Temporary electric street lighting in Norwich had started as early as 1881. The first permanent supply started in 1893 from a generating station in Duke Street. This supplied electricity to local industry and domestic users and, from 1900, the Norwich Electric Tramways. In the late 1920s a new 40 MW power station was built at Thorpe, this was expanded in 1937 with the addition of a 30 MW ‘high pressure’ generating plant. These power stations operated until 1975. A gas turbine plant was installed in 1964 to provide power at times of peak demand. This closed in 1986 and the entire Thorpe power station site was demolished and cleared in 1981–1982. Two tall electricity pylons stood near the site until they were dismantled in 2017. For further details see Norwich power stations.
Transport
Road
Norwich stands north of the A47 (bypassed to the south of the city), which connects it with Great Yarmouth to the east, and King’s Lynn and Peterborough to the west. There are plans to upgrade the A47, especially sections that are still single-carriageway, prompted partly by the ongoing construction of Great Yarmouth Outer Harbour. Norwich is linked to Cambridge via the A11, which leads to the M11 motorway for London and the M25. It is linked to Ipswich to the south by the A140 and to Lowestoft to the south-east by the A146. Norwich has the UK's largest independent car club.[192]
Rail
Norwich railway station lies east of the city centre and is managed by Greater Anglia. It forms the northern terminus of the Great Eastern Main Line, with half-hourly services to London Liverpool Street worked by Class 745 electric multiple units. It is also linked to the Midlands and North West England, with hourly services to Liverpool Lime Street, operated by East Midlands Railway Class 158 DMUs via Peterborough, Nottingham, Sheffield and Manchester Piccadilly.
Additional hourly regional services to Cambridge, and out of Norwich as far as Ely, are run along the Breckland Line also by Greater Anglia. They additionally run hourly local services to Great Yarmouth and Lowestoft, using the Wherry Lines and to Sheringham using the Bittern Line. These all use Class 755 bi-mode units.
Norwich is the site of Crown Point TMD, which is the depot that maintains the trains used in the area.[193]
Bus and coach
The bus companies serving Norwich include BorderBus, First Norfolk & Suffolk, Konectbus and Sanders Coaches. Destinations throughout Norfolk and beyond are served, as are Peterborough and Lowestoft. National Express run ten coaches a day to the three main London airports (Stansted, Heathrow and Gatwick), five a day to London, and one a day to Birmingham. Megabus also operates a daily service to London. Most bus and coach services run from Norwich bus station or from Castle Meadow.
The Norwich park and ride network has six sites run by Konectbus. It is one of the larger UK park & ride operations.[194][195] Almost 5,000 parking spaces are provided, and in 2006 3.4 million passengers used the service.[196]
Air
Norwich Airport (ICAO code EGSH) is a feeder to KLM's Schiphol hub. FlyBe and Eastern Airways both serve Norwich. Through Bristow Helicopters, Norwich Airport caters to the offshore oil and gas industry. There is also a strong holiday-charter business there. The airport was originally the airfield of RAF Horsham St Faith. One of the old RAF hangars became the home of Air UK, which grew out of Air Anglia and was then absorbed by the Dutch airline KLM.
Bicycle
National Cycle Route 1 passes through Norwich, linking Beccles and Fakenham (and eventually Dover and the Shetland Islands).[197]
Water
The River Yare is navigable from the sea at Great Yarmouth up to Trowse, south of the city. From there the River Wensum is navigable into Norwich up to New Mills, and is crossed by the Novi Sad Friendship Bridge. Scheduled trips through the city and out to the nearby The Broads are run by City Boats from outside Norwich station and also Elm Hill. In June 2012, Norwich City Council gave permission for punting on the River Wensum.[198]
Proposed developments
In 2017 the first part of a new 12-mile (19 km) road, the Norwich Northern Distributor Road, linking from the A1067 to the north west of the city to the A47 road to the east of Norwich was opened. The remainder of the road opened in 2018. There is also discussion of building the Norwich Western Link section from the A1067 to the A47 southern bypass to the west, as originally proposed.[199]
Sustrans plans to build a bridge between the Riverside area and Whitlingham Country Park as part of the Connect2 project, using funds from the National Lottery. The country park is currently cut off from the main residential areas by the River Yare and River Wensum.[200]
Other proposals in the Norwich Transport Strategy include limiting traffic on some roads, introducing five rapid bus links into the city, and creating a train/tram link to the Rackheath eco-town.[201]
Geography
Norwich is 100 miles (161 km) north-east of London, 102 miles (164 km) east of Leicester, 130 miles (209 km) east-north-east of Birmingham, 40 miles (64 km) north of Ipswich and 65 miles (104 km) east of Peterborough.
Climate
Norwich, like the rest of the British Isles, has a temperate maritime climate. It does not suffer extreme temperatures, and benefits from rainfall fairly evenly spread throughout the year. Coltishall, about 11 miles (18 km) to the north-east, was the nearest official met-office weather station for which records are available, although it ceased reporting in early 2006 – Norwich airport now provides readings. Norwich's position in East Anglia, jutting out into the North Sea can produce weather conditions that have less effect on other parts of the country, such as snow or sleet showers during the winter months on a northerly or easterly wind, or sea fog/haar during the summer half of the year. An example of Norwich being afflicted by sea fog is shown in the adjacent image.
The highest temperature recorded at Coltishall was 33.1 °C (91.6 °F)[202] during June 1976. However, go back further to 1932, and Norwich's absolute record high stands at 35.6 °C (96.1 °F).[203] Typically the warmest day of the year should reach 28.8 °C (83.8 °F)[204] and 9.9 days[205] should register a temperature of 25.1 °C (77.2 °F) or higher.
The lowest temperature recorded at Coltishall was −15.3 °C (4.5 °F)[206] during January 1979. In a typical year however, the coldest night should only fall to −7.5 °C (18.5 °F).[207] On average 39.4[208] air frosts will be recorded during the course of the year. More recently, the temperature at Norwich airport fell to −14.4 °C (6.1 °F)[209] on 18 December 2010 with unofficial weather stations reporting localised readings of −17 and −18 °C (1 and 0 °F).
The nearest sunshine monitoring weather station for which records are available is Morley agricultural research centre, about 11 miles (18 km) southwest of Norwich city centre. For the 1961–90 period, it averaged 1558 hours[210] of sunshine a year, a relatively high total for an inland part of the British Isles outside of southern England. In reality, given Norwich's position nearer to the coast and as such suffering from less convective cloud development during summer, true totals may even be slightly higher than this.
Rainfall, at around 650 mm (25 inches), is low, although as much as 100 mm (4 inches) higher than other, more sheltered parts of East Anglia, as Norwich is more prone to showers originating from the North Sea.[211]
Travellers' comments
In 1507 the poet John Skelton (1460–1529) wrote of two destructive fires in his Lament for the City of Norwich.
- "All life is brief, and frail all man's estate. City, farewell: I mourn thy cruel fate".
Thomas Fuller in his The Worthies of England described the City in 1662 as:
- "Either a city in an orchard or an orchard in a city, so equally are houses and trees blended in it, so that the pleasure of the country and the populousness of the city meet here together. Yet in this mixture, the inhabitants participate nothing of the rusticalness of the one, but altogether the urbanity and civility of the other".
Celia Fiennes (1662–1741) visited Norwich in 1698 and described it as
- "a city walled full round of towers, except on the river side which serves as a wall; they seem the best in repair of any walled city I know. She also records that three times a year the city held:
- "great fairs. … to which resort a vast concourse of people and wares a full trade", Norwich being "a rich, thriving industrious place full of weaving, knitting and dyeing".
Daniel Defoe in his Tour of the whole Island of Great Britain (1724) wrote:
- "the inhabitants being all busy at their manufactures, dwell in their garrets at their looms, in their combing-shops, so they call them, twisting-mills, and other work-houses; almost all the works they are employed in being done within doors".
John Evelyn (1620–1706), royalist, traveller and diarist, wrote to Sir Thomas Browne:
- " I hear Norwich is a place very much addicted to the flowery part". He visited the City as a courtier to King Charles II in 1671 and described it thus:
- "The suburbs are large, the prospect sweet, and other amenities, not omitting the flower-garden, which all the Inhabitants excel in of this City, the fabric of stuffs, which affords the Merchants, and brings a vast trade to this populous Town".
James Woodforde (1740–1803), clergyman, on his first visit to Norwich, wrote in his Diary on 14 April 1775:
- "We took a walk over the City in the morning, and we both agreed that it was the finest City in England by far, in the center of it is a high Hill and on that a prodigious large old Castle almost perfect and forms a compleat square, round it is a fine Terrass Walk which commands the whole City. There are in the City 36 noble Churches mostly built with flint, besides many meeting Houses of divers sorts. A noble River runs almost thro the Center of the City. The City walls are also very perfect and all round the City but where the River is. On the Hills round the City stand many Wind Mills about a dozen, to be seen from Castle Mount".
George Borrow in his semi-autobiographical novel Lavengro (1851) wrote of Norwich as:
- "A fine old city, perhaps the most curious specimen at present extant of the genuine old English Town ….There it spreads from north to south, with its venerable houses, its numerous gardens, its thrice twelve churches, its mighty mound....There is an old grey castle on top of that mighty mound: and yonder rising three hundred feet above the soil, from amongst those noble forest trees, behold that old Norman master-work, that cloud-enriched cathedral spire.... Now who can wonder that the children of that fine old city are proud, and offer up prayers for her prosperity?"
Borrow wrote far less favourably of the City in his translation of Faust:
- "They found the people of the place modelled after so unsightly a pattern, with such ugly figures and flat features that the devil owned he had never seen them equalled, except by the inhabitants of an English town, called Norwich, when dressed in their Sunday's best".
In 1812, Andrew Robertson wrote to the painter Constable:
- "I arrived here a week ago and find it a place where the arts are very much cultivated … some branches of knowledge, chemistry, botany, etc. are carried to a great length. General literature seems to be pursued with an ardour which is astonishing when we consider that it does not contain a university, as is merely a manufacturing town."
In 1962, Sir Nikolaus Pevsner stated in his North-West Norfolk and Norwich volume of The Buildings of England that:
- "Norwich is distinguished by a prouder sense of civic responsibility than any other town of about the same size in Britain."
Notable people
Past
Norwich has long been associated with radical politics, political dissent, liberalism, nonconformism and the arts. Past names associated with the city include:
Actors and musicians
- William Crotch (1775–1847), musical infant prodigy, composer, artist, and teacher
- Richard Lewis Hearne (Mr Pastry), (1908–1979), born in Norwich, actor, comedian, producer and writer
- Sir John Mills (1908–2005), actor born in North Elmham in Norfolk and educated at Norwich High School for Boys
- Thomas Morley (1558–1602), composer taught by William Byrd and organist at St Paul's
- Tony Sheridan (1940–2013), rock musician, born in Norwich
Artists and sculptors
- Michael Andrews (1928–1995), painter
- Artists belonging to the Norwich School of painters, including John Crome (1768–1821), Joseph Stannard (1797–1830), John Sell Cotman (1782–1842), John Berney Crome (1794–1842) and James Sillett
- Bernard Meadows (1915–2005), modernist sculptor
- Thomas Rawlins (1727–1789) Monument Mason with works in several Norwich churches.
- Obadiah Short (1803–1886), an amateur landscape artist and a member of the Norwich School of painters
Industrialists and merchants
- Louisa Sewell Abbs (née Skipper) (1811–1872), founder of girls' boarding schools in Travancore, India, who established the lace-making and embroidery industries there
- Jeremiah Colman (1777-1851), founder of Colman's Mustard
- Joseph John Gurney (1788–1847), banker and philanthropist who worked with his sister Elizabeth Fry (see above) on prison reform, and also active on abolition of the slave trade and in the temperance movement
Medical professionals
- Jasper Blaxland (1880–1963), consultant surgeon at the Norfolk and Norwich Hospital
- Edith Cavell (1865–1915), born in Swardeston, 4 miles (6.4 km) south of Norwich, a World War I nurse executed by firing squad by the Germans for helping Allied prisoners escape, and buried on Life's Green on the east side of Norwich Cathedral
- William Cuningham, Elizabethan physician, cartographer and astrologer
Scientists
- William Jackson Hooker (1785–1865), botanist and Fellow of the Royal Society
- Sir James Edward Smith (1759–1828), botanist, natural historian and one-time owner of the Linnean collection of Carl Linnaeus
Sports people
- Tristan Ballance (1916–1943), cricketer
- Billy Bluelight (1859/1863?–1949), pseudonym of William Cullum, known for his races against steam pleasure boats
- Geoffrey Colman (1892–1935), first-class cricketer and member of the Colman family
- Sir George Henry Morse (1857–1931), mountaineer and lord mayor of Norwich[212]
- Ayrton Senna (1960–1994), racing driver, lived in Norwich in the early 1980s.
Writers, poets and broadcasters
- Rev. John Abbs (1810–1888), missionary and author of Twenty-Two years' Missionary Experience in Travancore
- Sarah Austin (1793–1867), translator from German and editor, born in Norwich
- Frances Catherine Barnard (1796–1869), author
- Carol Barnes (1944–2008), journalist and broadcaster, born in Norwich[213]
- Pat Barr (1934–2018), writer, born in Norwich[214]
- Elizabeth Bentley (1767–1839), author of "Tales for Children in Verse", lived at 45 St Stephen's Square.
- George Borrow (1803–1881), writer and traveller, resident in his youth at Willow Lane, who attended the Norwich King Edward VI's Grammar School. He recalls the city and conversations with the philologist William Taylor in his semi-autobiographical novel Lavengro.
- Sir Thomas Browne (1605–1682), medical doctor, scientist, Christian mystic, polymath, author of acclaimed works in English literature
- Robert Greene (1558–1592), author of Friar Bacon and Friar Bungay (c. 1590)
- Louisa Gurney Hoare, (1784–1836), diarist and writer on education
- Julian of Norwich, medieval Christian mystic and contemporary of Chaucer, author of The Revelations of Divine Love, the first known book in English written by a woman
- Harriet Martineau (1802–1876), daughter of a Norwich manufacturer of Huguenot descent and devout Unitarian, whose writings include Illustrations of Political Economy (1832–34). She supported the abolitionist campaign.
- R. H. Mottram (1883–1971), novelist and lord mayor of Norwich
- Ross Nichols (1902–1975), poet and founder of Order of Bards, Ovates and Druids
- Amelia Opie (1769–1853), Norwich author and Quaker convert
- Elizabeth Scott (hymnwriter) (1708–1776), poet, hymnwriter
- W. G. Sebald, (1944–2001), writer, professor of German literature at the University of East Anglia
- John Palgrave Simpson (1807–1887), born in Norwich, a prolific and successful playwright
Other notable people
- William Calthorpe, purchased Erpingham manor in St.Martin's at the Palace, Norwich in 1447
- Vernon Castle (1887–1918), ballroom dancer and promoter of modern dancing
- Sir Thomas Erpingham (1357–1428), officer in the Battle of Agincourt and Knight of the Garter
- Pablo Fanque (1796–1871), the first black circus proprietor in Britain, born in Norwich
- Elizabeth Fry (1780–1845), prison reformer, philanthropist and Quaker, born at Gurney Court in Magdalen Street, portrayed on the Series E (2005) £5 banknote
- Sir Vyvyan Holt (1896–1960), diplomat, orientalist and British minister, captured during the Korean War
- Robert William Bilton Hornby (1821–1884), antiquarian, priest and lord of the manor, from the City of York, ordained deacon in Norwich in 1844
- Robert Kett, Norwich's Robin Hood, a landowner from Wymondham who led Kett's Rebellion in 1549 against corrupt Norfolk landowners. He was hanged for treason at Norwich Castle on 7 December 1549
- Alfred Lungley (1905–1989), awarded the George Cross after the 1935 Quetta earthquake
- Louis Marchesi (1898–1968), founder in Norwich, in 1927, of the international charitable organisation the Round Table
- James Martineau (1805–1900), philosopher and brother to Harriet
- Matthew Parker (1504–1575), archbishop of Canterbury
- David Eyre Percival (1914–1985), City Architect
- Edmund Sheffield, 1st Baron Sheffield (1521–1549), murdered near the Adam and Eve pub off the Cathedral Close during Kett's Rebellion
- George Skipper (1856–1948), architect of many buildings in the city and elsewhere
- William Smith (1756–1835), Whig politician, dissenter and abolitionist, MP for Norwich from 1807
Present
Actors and media personalities
- Dominic Byrne (born 1972 in Norwich), news-reader and presenter on The Chris Moyles Show (BBC Radio 1 – 2004–2012) (Radio X – 2015)
- Sam Claflin, actor famous for Finnick in The Hunger Games, born 1986 in Norwich, attended Costessey High School (now Ormiston Victory Academy).
- Olivia Colman, Academy Award-winning actress, born 1974 in Norwich
- Stephen Fry (born 1957), comedian, author, actor and film maker, studied at City College Norwich and was a Norwich City F.C. director.
- Trisha Goddard (born 1957), chat show host, lives just outside the city.
- Jake Humphrey (born 1978), TV presenter for CBBC and BBC coverage of Formula One, moved to Norwich aged nine and attended the Hewett School.
- Marek Larwood, actor and comedian, was born 1976 in Norwich.
- Ruth Madoc, actress, was born 1943 in Norwich.
- Jon Tickle (born 1974, Norwich), contestant on Big Brother and presenter on Brainiac: Science Abuse
- Tim Westwood (born 1957), BBC Radio 1 Rap DJ and presenter of the MTV show "Pimp My Ride (UK)", grew up in East Anglia and attended Norwich School and the Hewett School.
Artists
- Tanya Burr (born 1989), make-up artist on YouTube
- Samantha Chapman (born 1977), make-up artist who has worked with the likes of Paul McCartney
- Colin Self (born 1941), contemporary artist, was brought up in Sprowston and attended Norwich School of Art.
- Stella Vine (born 1969), painter, lived in Norwich from aged seven, and played at Norwich Theatre Royal. Later she moved back to Norwich and in 2006 painted the large sign Welcome to Norwich a fine city.[215]
Musicians
- Diana Burrell, composer, born 1948 in Norwich
- Cathy Dennis, singer-songwriter, born 1969 in Norwich
- Hannah Diamond, PC Music singer-songwriter, born 1991 in Norwich
- Myleene Klass (born 1978), singer, model, designer and classical music DJ, formerly of pop band Hear'Say, went to school in Norwich.
- Jane Manning, opera soprano, was born 1938 and raised in Norwich, and attended Norwich High School.
- Beth Orton, award-winning singer-songwriter, was born 1970 in Dereham, spent much of her childhood in Norwich, and attended The Hewett School.
- Steve Osborne (born 1963), musician and record producer, grew up in Norwich, left in 1986.
- Ronan Parke (born 1998), singer, came second in Britain's Got Talent 2011.
Politicians
- Ed Balls, former Labour Party MP, born 1967 in Norwich
- Charles Clarke (born 1950), former Labour MP for Norwich South and Home Secretary, now visiting professor at University of East Anglia
Scientists, medical professionals and engineers
- Andrew Digby, astronomer and ecologist, born 1975 in Norwich
- Jess French, zoologist, naturalist and presenter of "Minibeast Adventure with Jess" on the Cbeebies channel, grew up around Norwich and attended Norwich School.
- Mike Gascoyne (born 1963), automotive engineer, technical director of the Caterham Formula One team
- Professor Sir Paul Nurse, winner of the 2001 Nobel Prize in Physiology or Medicine, president of the Royal Society from 2010, was born 1949 in Norwich and educated at University of East Anglia.
Sports personalities
- Saraya-Jade Bevis, professional wrestler born 1992 and raised in Norwich, signed to WWE, performing as "Paige".
- Todd Cantwell, professional footballer playing for Norwich City FC and the England U21s
- Will Evans (born 1997), rugby union player for Leicester Tigers.
- Ralph Firman, Formula One driver, born 1975 in Norwich and living in Attleborough, races in the A1 Grand Prix series for Ireland.
- Herbie Hide (born 1971), boxer, two-time WBO Heavyweight champion, was born in Nigeria, but lived and fought out of Norwich.
- Danny Mills, (born 1977), footballer, was born in Norwich and played for Norwich City 1995–1998.
- Emma Pooley (born 1982), Olympic cycling silver medallist and winner of 2009 Women's Tour de France, attended Norwich School.
- Darren Webster, (born 1968), PDC professional darts player and two-time quarter-finalist World Championship quarter-finalist
- Mark Robinson, (born 1963), PDC professional darts player
- Chris Sutton (born 1973), football player (striker), joint top scorer for Premier League in 1997/8, attended Hellesdon High School, where his father, Mike Sutton, taught.
- Paul Warne (born 1973), former professional footballer and manager of Rotherham United F.C. (2016–present), born in Norwich
- Eileen Whelan (born 1911), the oldest ever international cricketer, and Norwich resident[216]
- Tom Youngs (born 1987, Norwich), rugby union player, hooker for Leicester Tigers and England
Writers
- Stuart Ashen (born 1976), reviewer, comedian, animator, actor and writer
- Sir Philip Pullman, children's writer and author of the His Dark Materials trilogy, was born in Norwich in 1946.
- D. J. Taylor (born 1960), biographer, critic and novelist
Other famous people
- Martin Burgess (born 1931), builder of Gurney Clock in the Castle Mall
- David Perry (born 1942), street entertainer known as the Norwich Puppet Man
- Delia Smith (born 1941), celebrity chef and joint majority owner of Norwich City F.C.
Twin cities
Norwich has town twinning agreements with four towns and cities:
Freedom of the City
The following people, military units and organisation have received the Freedom of the City of Norwich.
Military units
- 1st East Anglian Regiment: 1964
- 1st Battalion The Royal Anglian Regiment: 1984[221]
- RAF Marham: 2008
- 2nd Air Division, USAAF Association
Organisations and groups
See also
- Argyle Street, Norwich
- Church of Saint John the Baptist, Maddermarket, Norwich
- St Augustine's Church, Norwich
- St Laurence's Church, Norwich
Notes
- For table of city sizes see Corfield (2004, p. 143)
- Reports quoted by Knights 2004, pp. 168–174
- Quoted by Knights 2004, pp. 181–182
- Hayes 1958 Quote: "a major city manufacturer, and government supporter, Robert Harvey Jr as writing on 12 March 1793: 'The consequences of this just and inevitable war visit this poor city severely and suspend the operations of the Dutch, German and Italian trade and the only lingering employment in the manufactory is the completion of a few Russian orders, and the last China cambletts which I hope will find encouragement in the new East India Charter. This languid trade has doubled our poor rate and a voluntary subscription of above £2,000 is found inadequate to the exigencies of the poor."
- Quotations and facts from Wilson (2004b)
- Lord Stanhope was a radical peer, seen by many at the time as a dangerous menace. He is said to have given his rabble-rousing speech in a Norwich public house in 1794.
- Before the 20th century it was the practice for a sitting member to seek re-election if appointed to ministerial office.
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External links
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Wikivoyage has a travel guide for Norwich. |
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Wikimedia Commons has media related to Norwich. |
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Wikisource has the text of a 1921 Collier's Encyclopedia article about Norwich. |
- Norwich City Council
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