Dim sum

Dim sum (simplified Chinese: 点心; traditional Chinese: 點心; pinyin: diǎnxīn; Cantonese Yale: dímsām) is a Chinese cuisine of bite-sized portions served in small steamer baskets or on plates. Dim sum is generally considered Cantonese,[1][2][3] though other varieties exist. In Cantonese tradition, dishes are usually served with tea. Together, they form a full tea brunch or yum cha (饮茶; 飲茶; yǐn chá; 'drink tea'), a term used interchangeably with dim sum.[4][5] Dim sum are traditionally served as fully cooked, ready-to-serve dishes. Some Cantonese teahouses have servers push around carts of dim sum for diners to pick from.

Dim sum

Etymology

The original meaning of the term dim sum remains unclear and debated.[6]

Some references state that the term originated in the Eastern Jin dynasty (317–420).[7][8] According to one legend, to show soldiers gratitude after battles, a general had civilians make buns and cakes to send to the front lines. "Gratitude", or 點點心意; diǎn diǎn xīnyì, later shortened to 點心 (dim sum), came to represent dishes made in a similar fashion.

However, no historical text supports that legend. Some versions date the legend to the Southern Song dynasty (960–1279)[9][10] after the term's earliest attestation in the Book of Tang (唐書; Táng shū.[8] Written in the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period (907–979), the book uses dim sum as a verb instead: 「治妝未畢, 我未及餐, 爾且可點心」; "Zhì zhuāng wèi bì, wǒ wèi jí cān, ěr qiě kě diǎnxīn", or "I have not finished preparing myself and been ready for a proper meal, therefore you can treat yourself with some small snacks".[8] In this context, dim sum (點心; 'to lightly touch (your) heart'), means "to barely fill (your) stomach".[8]

Dim sum dishes are usually associated with yum cha (Chinese: 飲茶; Cantonese Yale: yám chàh; pinyin: yǐnchá; lit.: 'drink tea'), a Cantonese brunch tradition.[11][12]

History
A dim sum restaurant in Hong Kong

The city Guangzhou experienced an increase in commercial travel in the 10th Century[13] and the travelers stopped at tea houses for frequent, small-portion meals with tea called yum cha, or "drink tea" meal.[13][14] Yum cha includes two related concepts:[15]

  1. 一盅兩件, which is literally “one cup, two pieces.” This refers to the custom of serving teahouse customers two pieces of delicately made food items, savory or sweet, to complement their tea.
  2. 點心, which is dim sum and literally “touch heart.” This is the term used to designate the small food items that accompanied the drinking of tea.

Teahouse owners eventually added various snacks, called dim sum, and this practice of having tea with dim sum eventually evolved into modern yum cha.[13][16] While at the tea houses, travelers selected their preferred snacks from carts.[13] Visitors to tea houses often socialized as they ate and businesspeople negotiated deals over dim sum.[13]

Cantonese dim sum culture developed rapidly during the latter half of the nineteenth century in Guangzhou.[17] Teahouse dining areas were typically located upstairs and initial dim sum fare included steamed buns.[17] Eventually, specialized dim sum restaurants opened for business and the variety and quality of dim sum dishes rapidly evolved.[17] Cantonese dim sum was originally based on local foods, such as the sweet roast pork known as char siu and fresh rice noodles.[17] As dim sum continued to develop, chefs introduced influences and traditions from other regions of China and this was a start to the wide variety of dim sum.[17] Chefs created a large range of dim sum that even today comprises the majority of a teahouse’s dim sum offerings.[17] Part of this development included reducing portion sizes of larger dishes originally from northern China, such as stuffed steamed buns, so that can they easily be incorporated into the dim sum menu.[17] The rapid growth in dim sum restaurants was partly because people found the preparation of dim sum dishes to be time-consuming and preferred the convenience of dining out and eating a large variety of baked, steamed, pan-fried, deep-fried, and braised foods.[17] Dim sum continued to develop and also spread southward to Hong Kong.[18]

Dim sum normally considered as Cantonese can include a range of additional influences.[17] Over thousands of years, as people in China migrated in search of different or better places to live, they brought the recipes of their favorite foods and continued to prepare and serve the dishes.[17] Many Han Chinese migrated south seeking warmer climates.[17] Settlements took shape in the Yangtze River Valley, the central highlands, and the coastal southeast, including Guangdong.[17] The influence of Suzhou and Hangzhou is found in vegetarian soy skin rolls and pearl meatballs. The dessert squares flavored with red dates or wolfberries are influences from Beijing desserts.[17] Savory dishes, such as pot stickers and steamed dumplings have Muslim influence due to people traveling from Central Asia across the Silk Roads and into Guangdong.[17] These are just a few examples of how a wide range of influences became incorporated into traditional Cantonese dim sum.[17]

By the end of 1860, foreign influences had also begun to influence Guangdong’s dim sum with culinary innovations, such as catsup, Worcestershire sauce, and curry included into some savory dishes.[17] Custard pies evolved into the miniature beloved classics found in every teahouse.[17] Additional dim sum dishes evolved from Indian samosas, mango puddings, and Mexican conchas (snow-topped buns).[17] Cantonese-style dim sum has an extremely broad range of flavors, textures, cooking styles, and ingredients.[17] As a result, there are more than a thousand different varieties of dim sum.[17]

During the 1920's in Guangzhou, the deluxe places to enjoy tea were the tea pavilions which had refined and expansive surroundings.[17] The customers were wealthy and the tea pavillion service and dim sum were of very high caliber.[17] Upon entering a tea pavillion, customers would inspect tea leaves to ensure their quality and to verify the water temperature.[17] Once satisfied, these guests were presented with a pencil and a booklet listing the available dim sum.[17] A waiter would then tear their orders out of the booklet so that the kitchen could pan-fry, steam, bake, or deep-fry these dishes on demand.[17] Customers dined upstairs in privacy and comfort.[17] Servers carefully balanced the dishes on their arms or arranged them on trays as they climbed up and down the stairs.[17] Eventually, dim sum carts were used to serve the steamers and plates.[17]

People with average incomes also enjoyed tea and dim sum.[17] Early every morning, customers visited inexpensive restaurants that offered filled steamed buns and hot tea.[17] During mid-morning, students and government employees ordered two or three kinds of dim sum and ate as they read their newspapers.[17] In the late morning, people working at small businesses visited restaurants for breakfast and to use the restaurant as a small office space.[17]

By the late 1930s, Guangzhou’s teahouse culture included four high-profile dim sum chefs, with signs at the front doors of their restaurants.[17] There was heavy competition among teahouses and as a result, new varieties of dim sum were invented almost daily, including dishes influenced by the tea pastries of Shanghai and Beijing, as well as the Western Hemisphere.[17] Many new fusion dishes were also created, including puddings, baked rolls, turnovers, custard tarts, and Malay steamed cakes.[17]

There were also significant increases in the variety of thin wrappers used in both sweet and savory items:[17]

"If we concentrate only on the changes and development in the variety of “wrappers,” the main types of dim sum wrappers during the 1920s included such things as raised (for filled buns), wheat starch, shao mai (i.e., egg dough), crystal bun, crispy batter, sticky rice, and boiled dumpling wrappers. By the 1930s, the varieties of wrappers commonly used by chefs included . . . puff pastry, Cantonese short pastry, [and so on, for a total of 23 types] that were prepared by pan-frying, deep-frying, steaming, baking, and roasting"[17][19]

In the late 1930's, some of the early U.S. newspaper references to dim sum began to appear.[20]

Cuisine

There are over one thousand dim sum dishes available[21][22] and they are usually eaten as breakfast or brunch.[23][24] Cantonese dim sum has a very broad range of flavors, textures, cooking styles, and ingredients.[22] Dim sum can be categorized into regular items, seasonal offerings, weekly specials, banquet dishes, holiday dishes, house signature dishes, travel-friendly, as well as foods for breakfast, lunch, and late night snacks.[22]

The portion size of dim sum is partly influened by the subtropical climate of the southeast quadrant of Guangdong.[22] The subtropical climate can result in decreased appetites[25] and people prefer eating scaled-down meals throughout the day rather than the customary three large meals.[22] Teahouses in Guangzhou served “three teas and two meals,” which included lunch and dinner, as well as breakfast, afternoon, and evening teas with dim sum.[22]

Many dim sum dishes are made of seafood, chopped meats, or vegetables wrapped in dough or thin wrappings and steamed, deep-fried, or pan-fried.[3][21][26] A traditional dim sum brunch includes various types of steamed buns, such as cha siu bao (a steamed bun filled with barbecue pork), rice or wheat dumplings, and rice noodle rolls that contain a range of ingredients, including beef, chicken, pork, prawns, and vegetarian options.[27][28] Many dim sum restaurants also offer plates of steamed green vegetables, stuffed eggplant, stuffed green peppers, roasted meats, congee, and other soups.[29] Dessert dim sum is also available and can be ordered at any time since there is not a set sequence for the meal.[30][31]

It is customary to order "family-style", sharing the small dishes consisting of three or four pieces of dim sum among all members of the dining party.[23][32][33][34] Small portion sizes allow people to try a wide variety of food.[24]

Dishes

Dim sum restaurants typically have a wide variety of dishes, usually several dozen.[35]

Dumplings
  • Shrimp dumpling (蝦餃; xiā jiǎo; hā gáau): steamed dumpling with shrimp filling[36]
  • Teochew dumpling (潮州粉粿; cháozhōu fěnguǒ; Chìu jāu fán gwó): steamed dumpling with peanuts, garlic, Chinese chives, pork, dried shrimp, and Chinese mushrooms.[37]
  • Chive dumpling (韭菜餃): steamed dumpling with Chinese chives
  • Xiaolongbao (小笼包; 小籠包; xiǎolóngbāo; síu lùhng bāau): dumplings containing a rich broth and filled with meat or seafood.[38][39]
  • Guotie (鍋貼; guōtiē; wōtip): pan-fried dumpling, usually with meat and cabbage filling.[40][41]
  • Shaomai (烧卖; 燒賣; shāomài; sīu máai): steamed dumplings with pork and prawns, usually topped off with crab roe and mushroom.[42]
  • Taro dumpling (芋角; yù jiǎo; wuh gok): deep fried dumpling made with mashed taro and stuffed with diced mushrooms, shrimp and pork.[43]
  • Haam Seui Gok (鹹水角; xiánshuǐ jiǎo; hàahm séui gok): deep fried dumpling with a slightly savoury filling of pork and chopped vegetables in a sweet and sticky wrapping.[44]
  • Dumpling soup (灌湯餃; guàntāng jiǎo; guntōng gáau): soup with one or two big dumplings.

Rolls
  • Spring roll (春卷; 春捲; chūnjuǎn; chēun gyún): a deep fried roll with various sliced vegetables (such as carrots, cabbage, mushroom and wood ear fungus) and sometimes meat.[45]
  • Tofu skin roll (腐皮捲; fǔpíjuǎn; fuh pèih gyún): a roll made of tofu skin filled with various meat and sliced vegetables.[46]
  • Fresh bamboo roll (鮮竹卷): a roll made of tofu skin filled with minced pork and bamboo shoot, typically served in an oyster sauce broth
  • Four-treasure chicken roll (四寶雞扎): a roll made of tofu skin filled with chicken, Jinhua ham, fish maw (花膠), and Chinese mushroom
  • Rice noodle roll (腸粉; chángfěn; chéungfán): steamed rice noodles with or without meat or vegetable filling. Popular fillings include beef, dough fritter, shrimp, and barbecued pork. Often served with a sweetened soy sauce.[47][48]
  • Zhaliang (炸兩; jaléung): steamed rice noodles rolled around youjagwai (油炸鬼), typically doused in soy sauce, hoisin sauce, or sesame paste and sprinkled with sesame seeds.[49]

Bun
  • Barbecued pork bun (叉燒餐包)
  • Barbecued pork bun (叉燒包)
  • Sweet cream bun (奶黃包)
  • Lotus paste bun (蓮蓉包) made to resemble roosters for Lunar New Year
  • Pineapple buns (菠蘿包)
  • Barbecued pork bun (叉燒包; chāshāo bāo; chāsīu bāau): buns with barbecued pork filling steamed to be white and fluffy.叉燒餐包; chāshāo cān bāo; chāsīu chāan bāau is a variant glazed and baked for a golden appearance.[50]
  • Sweet cream bun (奶黃包; nǎihuáng bāo; náaih wòhng bāau): steamed buns with milk custard filling
  • Lotus paste bun (蓮蓉包): steamed buns with lotus seed paste filling
  • Pineapple bun (菠蘿包; bōluó bāo; bōlòh bāau): a usually sweet bread roll that does not contain pineapple but has a topping textured like pineapple skin.[51]

Cake
  • Turnip cake (蘿蔔糕; luóbo gāo; lòh baahk gōu): pudding made from a mix of shredded white radish, bits of dried shrimp, Chinese sausage, and mushroom that is steamed, sliced, and pan-fried.[52][53]
  • Taro cake (芋頭糕; yùtou gāo; wuh táu gōu): pudding made of taro.[54]
  • Water chestnut cake (馬蹄糕; mǎtí gāo; máh tàih gōu): pudding made of crispy water chestnut; some restaurants also serve a variation made with bamboo juice.[55]

Meat

Seafood
  • Deep fried squid (炸鱿鱼须; 炸魷魚鬚; zhàyóuyúxū; ja yàuh yùh sōu): similar to fried calamari, the battered squid is deep-fried.
  • Curry squid (咖哩鱿鱼; 咖哩魷魚): squid served in curry broth

Vegetable
  • Steamed vegetables (油菜; yóucài; yáu choi): served with oyster sauce, popular varieties include lettuce (生菜; shēngcài; sāang choi), choy sum (菜心; càixīn; choi sām), gai lan (芥兰; 芥蘭; jièlán; gaailàahn) or water spinach (蕹菜; wèngcài; ung choi).
  • Fried tofu (炸豆腐): deep fried tofu with salt and pepper

Rice
  • Lotus leaf rice (糯米雞; nuòmǐ jī; noh máih gāi): glutinous rice wrapped in a lotus leaf that typically contains egg yolk, dried scallop, mushroom, and meat (usually pork and chicken). A lighter variant is known as "pearl chicken" (珍珠雞; zhēnzhū jī; jānjyū gāi).[60]
  • Chinese sticky rice (糯米飯; nuòmǐ fàn; noh máih faahn): stir fried (or steamed) glutinous rice with savoury Chinese sausage, soy sauce steeped mushrooms, sweet spring onions, and sometimes chicken marinated with a mixture of spices including five-spice powder.[61][62][63]
  • Congee (粥; zhōu; jūk): many kinds of rice porridge, such as the "Preserved Egg and Pork Porridge" (皮蛋瘦肉粥; pídàn shòuròu zhōu; pèihdáan sauyuhk jūk).[64]

Dessert
  • Egg tart (Chinese: 蛋撻; pinyin: dàntǎ; Cantonese Yale: daahn tāat): baked tart with egg custard filling.[65][66][67][68]
  • Tofu pudding (豆腐花; dòufuhuā; dauh fuh fā): soft tofu served with a sweet ginger or jasmine flavoured syrup.[69][70]
  • Sesame ball (煎堆; jiānduī; jīn dēui): deep fried chewy dough with various fillings (lotus seed, black bean, red bean pastes) coated in sesame seeds.[71][72]
  • Thousand-layer cake (千層糕; qiāncéng gāo; chīnchàhng gōu): a dessert made of many layers of sweet egg dough
  • Malay sponge cake (馬拉糕; mǎlā gāo; máhlāai gōu): steamed sponge cake flavoured with molasses.[73]
  • White sugar sponge cake:(白糖糕; báitáng gāo; baahk tòng gōu): steamed sponge cake made with white sugar.[74][75]
  • Coconut pudding (椰汁糕; yēzhī gāo; yèh jāp gōu): light and spongy but creamy coconut milk pudding made with a thin clear jelly layer made with coconut water on top.[76]
  • Mango pudding (芒果布甸; mángguǒ bùdiàn; mōnggwó boudīn): a sweet, rich mango-flavoured pudding usually with large chunks of fresh mango and often served with a topping of evaporated milk.[77][78]
  • Ox-tongue pastry (牛脷酥): a fried oval-shaped dough resembling an ox tongue that is similar to youjagwai, but sugar is added to the flour.[79]
  • Tong sui (糖水): sweet dessert soups; popular varieties include black sesame soup (芝麻糊), red bean soup (红豆汤; 紅豆沙), mung bean soup (绿豆汤; 綠豆沙), sai mai lo (西米露), guilinggao (龟苓膏; 龜苓膏), peanut paste soup (花生糊), and walnut soup (核桃糊).[80]

Tea
Main article: Yum cha
Chrysanthemum tea
A typical dining set for yum cha

The drinking of tea matters just as much as the food does.[2][81] Teas served during dim sum include:

  • Chrysanthemum tea: instead of tea leaves, it is a flower-based tisane made from flowers of the species Chrysanthemum morifolium or Chrysanthemum indicum, which are most popular in East Asia.[82] To prepare the tea, chrysanthemum flowers (usually dried) are steeped in hot water (usually 90 to 95 °C (194 to 203 °F) after cooling from a boil) in a teapot, cup, or glass. A common mix with pu-erh is called guk pou (Chinese: 菊普; pinyin: jú pǔ; Cantonese Yale: gūk póu), a portmanteau of its component teas.
  • Green tea: freshly picked leaves that go through heating and drying processes but not oxidation keep their original green color and chemical compounds, like polyphenols and chlorophyll.[83] Produced all over China and the most popular category of tea, green teas include the representative Dragon Well (Chinese: 龍井; pinyin: lóngjǐng; Cantonese Yale: lùhngjéng) and Biluochun from Zhejiang and Jiangsu provinces, respectively.
  • Oolong tea: partially oxidizing the tea leaves imparts them with characteristics of both green and black teas.[84][85][86] Oolongs taste more like green than black tea but have a less "grassy" flavour than the former. Major oolong-tea producing areas line the southeast coast of China, such as Fujian, Guangdong, and Taiwan. Tieguanyin (Chinese: 鐵觀音; pinyin: tiěguānyīn; Cantonese Yale: titgūnyām), one of the most popular, originated in Fujian province and is a premium variety with a delightful fragrance.
  • Pounei (Cantonese) or pu-erh tea (Mandarin): usually a compressed tea, pu-erh has a unique earthy flavour from years of fermentation.[87][88]
  • Scented teas: various mixes of flowers with green, black, or oolong teas exist. Flowers used include jasmine, gardenia, magnolia, grapefruit flower, sweet-scented osmanthus, and rose. Strict rules govern the proportion of flowers to tea. Jasmine tea, the most popular scented tea, is the one most often served at yum cha establishments.

The tea service includes several customs.[89][90][91][92] Typically, the server starts by asking diners what tea to serve. According to etiquette, the person closest to the tea pot pours tea for the others. Those served tea express thanks by tapping their first two fingers on the table.[33][92] Diners flip open the lid (of hinged metal tea pots) or offset the tea pot cover (on ceramic tea pots) to signal an empty pot.[92] Servers then refill the pot.

Restaurants
A light blue bill card (upper left) on a table of traditional family-style dim sum lunch dishes in a restaurant

Many Cantonese restaurants start serving dim sum as early as five in the morning[93][94][95], while more traditional restaurants typically serve dim sum until mid-afternoon.[93][23][24] It has become commonplace for restaurants to serve dim sum at dinner time and even to sell various dim sum items a la carte for take-out.[96]

Dim sum has a unique serving method.[97] In dim sum restaurants or teahouses, servers offer dishes to customers from steam-heated carts.[21][97][98] Diners often prefer tables nearest the kitchen since servers and carts pass by these tables first.[34][95] Many restaurants place lazy susans on tables to help diners reach food and tea.[99]

Pricing of dishes at these types of restaurants may vary, but traditionally, the dishes are classified as "small", "medium", "large", "extra-large", or "special".[95][30] For example, a basket of dumplings may be considered a small dish, while a bowl of congee or plate of lo mai gai a large one. Dishes are then priced by size. Servers record orders with a rubber stamp or ink pen onto a bill card that remains on the table.[89][27][3] Servers in some restaurants use distinctive stamps to track sales statistics for each server. Menu items not typically considered dim sum fare, such as a plate of chow mein, are typically branded as "kitchen" dishes on menus and individually priced. When done eating, the customers simply call the servers over, and the bill is calculated based on the number of stamps or quantities marked in each priced section.

Another way of pricing the food consumed uses the number and color of the dishes left on the patron's table as a guide, much like the method used in some Japanese conveyor belt sushi restaurants. Some newer restaurants offer a "conveyor belt dim sum" format.[100]

Other Chinese restaurants may instead take orders from a pre-printed sheet of paper and serve à la carte, much like Spanish tapas restaurants,[101][102] to provide fresh, cooked-to-order dim sum or due to real estate and resource constraints.[103][104]

Dim sum food shop in Hong Kong

Fast food
Streetside dim sum food shop in Hong Kong
Frozen dim sum are widely available at convenience stores

Instant dim sum as a fast food has come into the market in Hong Kong,[105] mainland China,[106] Taiwan, Vietnam, the Philippines, Indonesia, Singapore, Thailand, and Malaysia. People can enjoy snacks after defrosting or reheating instant dim sum in a microwave for three minutes.[105]

In many cities, vendors sell "street dim sum" from mobile carts. It usually consists of dumplings or meatballs steamed in a large container and served on a bamboo skewer. The customer can dip the whole skewer into a sauce bowl and then eat while standing or walking.

Frozen dim sum in a grocery store in the United States

Dim sum can often be purchased from grocery stores in major cities.[89] These dim sum can be easily cooked by steaming, frying, or microwaving.[107][108] Major grocery stores in Hong Kong, Vietnam, the Philippines, Singapore, Taiwan, Mainland China, Indonesia, Malaysia, Brunei, Thailand, Australia, United States, and Canada have a variety of frozen or fresh dim sum stocked at the shelves. These include dumplings, shaomai, baozi, rice noodle roll, turnip cake and steamed spare ribs.

In Hong Kong and other cities in Asia, dim sum can be purchased from convenience stores, coffee shops and other eateries.[109][110] Halal-certified dim sum that uses chicken instead of pork very popular in Hong Kong,[111] Malaysia,[112] Indonesia[113] and Brunei.[114]

Modern dim sum

In addition to traditional dim sum, some chefs also create and prepare new fusion-based dim sum dishes.[115][116][117][118] Variations designed for visual appeal on social media, such as dumplings and buns made to resemble animals, also exist.[119] Dim sum chefs have used cocoa power as coloring to create steamed bread puffs that appear like forest mushrooms, espresso powder as coloring and flavor for deep-fried riblets, pastry cream, and French puffs in order to create innovative dishes while honoring the history of dim sum.[17]

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See also

References
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