Kemben

Kemben (Javanese) or kemban (Indonesian) is a female torso wrap historically common in Java and Bali, Indonesia.[1] It is made by wrapping a piece of kain (clothes), either plain, batik printed, velvet, or any type of fabrics, covering the chest wrapped around the woman's torso.[2]

Kemben

Indonesian Javanese woman in traditional batik kemben, c. 1900.
Type	Traditional Female Torso wrap
Place of origin	Indonesia

Uses

Traditional kemben is worn by wrapping a piece of cloth around the torso, folding and securing the edge, tying it with additional rope, and covering with angkin or a smaller sash around the abdomen. Traditional Javanese batik kemben worn by palace ladies in kratons are mostly this type of kemben.[3] Today, there is also tight-fitted and tailored kemben secured using buttons, straps or zippers similar to the western corset. The kemben of female Javanese traditional dancers (srimpi or wayang wong) are usually made of tailored velvet corsets.

It is akin to European décolletage, however it is more indigenously Indonesian by using local fabrics such as batik, ikat, tenun, or songket, and simply secured by folding and slipping the cloth edges and tying the knot. Traditionally, Javanese women wear two pieces of cloth; the lower one is wrapped around the hips covering lower parts of body (hips, thighs and legs) and is called as kain or sarung, while the piece that is wrapped about the upper body (chest and torso) is called kemben. Kemben is comfortable to wear in the hot and humid climate of tropical Indonesia, as it eases ventilation and perspiration.

History

Srimpi dancer wearing velvet kemben.

Prior to the prevalence of kebaya, it is believed that kemben was the most popular and common female dress of the ancient and classical period of Java. It is commonly worn in Majapahit era, all the way to Mataram Sultanate era. Today, this shoulder-exposing gown still feature in many Indonesian rituals, traditional Javanese dances, or palace ceremonies in Javanese keratons.

Kemben may be regarded as an expression of, aesthetics, elegance, and femininity. In recent decades, however, kemben has fallen out of favour among Javanese Muslim women, with many Javanese Muslim women instead donning hijab, which was previously uncommon in Indonesia.

See also

• National costume of Indonesia
• Culture of Indonesia
• Javanese culture
• Sbai
• Kebaya

References

1. "kemben in English | Indonesian to English Translation - Oxford Dictionaries". Oxford Global Languages. Retrieved 2017-10-12.
2. "Hasil Pencarian - KBBI Daring". kbbi.kemdikbud.go.id (in Indonesian). Retrieved 2017-10-12.
3. "Memakai Batik Untuk Kemben, Eksotisme Fashion Wanita Jawa - Indonesian Batik". Indonesian Batik (in Indonesian). 2018-02-26. Retrieved 2018-06-01.