IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships

The IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships are the biennial world championships for competition climbing for people with disabilities organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). This event determines the male and female world champions in various categories.

The first event was organized in Arco in 2011, held together with the IFSC Climbing World Championships.

Championships
Edition Year Location Date(s) Disciplines Athletes Nations Website Notes
number lead speed
1 2011 Arco 18–19 July 2 • • [1]
2 2012 Paris 12–16 September 1 • [2][3]
3 2014 Gijón 11–14 September 1 • [4][5]
4 2016 Paris 14–18 September 1 • [6][7][8]
5 2018 Innsbruck 10–16 September 1 • [9][10]
6 2019 Briançon[11] 16–17 July 1 • [12]
7 2021 Moscow[13] ?

Classifications and Categories

The classifications and categories of the competition changed over the years. Below is the latest version, quoted from the IFSC 2018 rules.

IFSC Classifications and Categories[14]
Classification Category Impairment Body part Level of Impairment
Visual B1 Visual Both Eyes Blind competitors
B2 Competitors having a visual acuity of up to 2/60 and/or a visual field of less than 5%
B3 Competitors having a visual acuity between 2/60 and 6/60 and/or a visual field between 5% and 20%.
Amputee AL-1 (seating) Loss of Limb or Limb deficiency 2 legs Full (No hip, no Joint) or combination of any
AL-2 1 Leg Full, Leg hip joint, Tibia
AU-1 (Arm amputee) 2 or 1 arm - 2 arms: Full or combination of any

- 1 arm: Full (No shoulder, no joint) or amputated of shoulder joint

AU-2 (Forearm amputee) 1 arm - No forearm

- No Hand (Wrist joint existing)

- All fingers (included thumb and no finger joint)

Limited range, power or stability: LRP

(former Neuro and Physiological Disabilities)

 RP1 Hypertonia All Permanent spasticity through flexion or extension
Impaired Muscle power All - Spasticity or severe athetosistic movement from 4 limbs

- Moderate to severe trouble of tonus in 4 limbs

Ataxia All Very weak strength and / or severe control problem of upper or torso limbs
RP2 Impaired passive range of movement -Shoulder,

-Junction between shoulder and elbow,

-Torso (Trunk)

 Any
Hypertonia All Considerably increase of muscular tonus
Impaired Muscle power All - Trouble of tonus on 2 to 4 limbs

- Moderate to severe trouble of tonus in 2 lower limbs

- Severe troubles of lower limbs creating walking difficulties

Athetosis All - Limited strength and / or moderate control problem of upper or torso limbs

- Correct functional value and negligible control problem of upper or torso limbs

RP3 Impaired passive range of movement -Elbow,

-Junction between Elbow and Wrist

-Wrist

-Waist

-Junction between Waist and Knee

-Knee Junction between Knee and ankle

 Any
Hypertonia All Moderate increase but easily noticeable

A large number of RP conditions are neurological disabilities such as MS, stroke survivors, brain damage and so on. There are a number of competitors who climb similarly to an AL/AU athlete due to a condition/accident that has affected the development or use of a limb, placing them in the RP category instead.

When a category has no competitors entered into it, it doesn't run; but when a category has a few competitors (just not enough to officially run) this category gets merged into what is deemed to be a tougher category.[15]

Men's Results

Speed
Year Category Gold Silver Bronze
2011[16] Amputee Arm PD Mikhail Saparov - -
Amputee Both Leg PD Boyu Xia - -
Amputee Leg PD Urko Carmona Barandiaran Günther Grausam Oliviero Bellinzani
Arthritis+Neurological PD András Szijártó Matteo Alberghini Philippe Ribière
Complete Neurological Leg Disability PD Sebastian Richter - -
Visual Impairment B1 Matteo Stefani Manuel Cepero Gutierrez Roman Kostyakov
Visual Impairment B2 Simone Salvagnin Oliviero Bellinzani -
Visual Impairment B3 Domingo Carretero Campon Ricardo Pérez Amado -

Lead
Year Category Gold Silver Bronze
2011[17] Amputee Arm PD Mikhail Saparov - -
Amputee Both Leg PD Boyu Xia - -
Amputee Leg PD Mineo Ono Urko Carmona Barandiaran Alexander Biermann
Arthritis+Neurological PD András Szijártó Matteo Masento Alessio Cornamusini
Complete Neurological Leg Disability PD Sebastian Richter - -
Visual Impairment B1 Matteo Stefani Manuel Cepero Gutierrez Roman Kostyakov
Visual Impairment B2 Koichiro Kobayashi Masayoshi Idomoto Simone Salvagnin
Visual Impairment B3 Ricardo Pérez Amado Domingo Carretero Campon -
2012 Amputee Leg PD Urko Carmona Barandiaran Mineo Ono Craig Demartino
Arthritis+Neurological PD1 Manikandan Kumar Raphael Nishimura Mathieu Besnard
Visual Impairment B1 Nicolas Moineau Kenji Iwamoto Matteo Stefani
Visual Impairment B2 Sho Aita Koichiro Kobayashi Simone Salvagnin
2014 Amputee Leg PD Urko Carmona Barandiaran Ronald Dickson Craig Demartino
Visual Impairment B1 Koichiro Kobayashi Nicolas Moineau Matteo Stefani
Neurological Physical Disability A Mathieu Besnard Manikandan Kumar Behnam Khalaji
Neurological Physical Disability B András Szijártó Alessio Cornamusini Serge Laurencin
2016 B1 Koichiro Kobayashi Nicolas Moineau Matteo Stefani
B2 Sho Aita Mathieu Barbe Simone Salvagnin
AL-2 Albert Guardia Ferrer Julien Gasc Iván Germán Pascual
RP1 Korbinian Franck Nils Helsper Connor King
RP2 Nive Porat Alessio Cornamusini Vladimir Netsvetaev-Dolgalev
RP3 Romain Pagnoux Mathieu Besnard Gregor Selak
2018 AU-2 Matthew Phillips Trevor Smith Maksim Maiorov
B1 Koichiro Kobayashi Matteo Stefani Francisco Javier Aguilar Amoedo
B2 Justin Salas Raul Simon Franco Fumiya Hamanoue
AL-2 Thierry Delarue Urko Carmona Barandiaran Albert Guardia Ferrer
RP1 Alessio Cornamusini Korbinian Franck Nils Helsper
RP2 Behnam Khalaji Nive Porat Manikandan Kumar
RP3 Romain Pagnoux Michael Cleverdon Gregor Selak
2019 AU-2 Matthew Phillips Mor Michael Sapir Kevin Bartke
B1 Koichiro Kobayashi Francisco Javier Aguilar Amoedo Daniil Lisichenko
B2 Sho Aita Justin Salas Richard Slocock
B3 Cosmin Florin Candoi Lux Losey Sail Motohiro Ejiri
AL-2 Thierry Delarue Urko Carmona Barandiaran Albert Guardia Ferrer
RP1 Bastien Thomas Alessio Cornamusini Korbinian Franck
RP2 Behnam Khalaji Benjamin Mayforth Manikandan Kumar
RP3 Romain Pagnoux Mathieu Besnard Gregor Selak

Women's Results

Speed
Year Category Gold Silver Bronze
2011[16] Amputee Arm PD Paula De la Calle Pizarro - -
Arthritis+Neurological PD Valentyna Kurshakova - -
Visual Impairment B1 Silvia Parente Dilyara Rakhmankulova -
Visual Impairment B2 Tatiana Panova - -

Lead
Year Category Gold Silver Bronze
2011[17] Amputee Arm PD Paula De la Calle Pizarro - -
Arthritis+Neurological PD Valentyna Kurshakova - -
Visual Impairment B1 Dilyara Rakhmankulova Silvia Parente -
Visual Impairment B2 Tatiana Panova - -
2012 Visual Impairment Dilyara Rakhmankulova Silvia Parente Giulia Poggioli
Physical Disability Frances Brown Silvia Giacobbo Dal Prà Valentyna Kurshakova
2014 Amputee Leg PD Christa Brelsford Kate Sawford Esme Harte
Visual Impairment B2 Alessia Refolo Tanja Glusic Giulia Poggioli
Neurological Physical Disability A Elodie Orbaen Tiziana Paolini Oriane Moreno
2016 AU-2 Maureen Beck Melinda Vigh Lucia Capovilla
AL-2 Lucie Jarrige Kate Sawford Esme Harte
RP3 Elodie Orbaen Oriane Moreno Aika Yoshida
2018 AU-2 Solenne Piret Melinda Vigh Maureen Beck
B2 Abigail Robinson Whiteny Pesek Tanja Glusic
AL-2 Lucie Jarrige Kate Sawford Emily Stephenson
RP2 Hannah Baldwin Marlene Prat Anita Aggarwal
RP3 Aika Yoshida Momoko Yoshida Elodie Orbaen
2019 AU-2 Solenne Piret Maureen Beck Melinda Vigh
B2 Abigail Robinson Yumi Ejiri Edith Scheinecker
AL-2 Lucie Jarrige Joanna Newton Jaqueline Fritz
RP2 Hannah Baldwin Anita Aggarwal Leanora Volpe
RP3 Aika Yoshida Momoko Yoshida Martha Evans
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References
  1. "IFSC Climbing World Championships – Arco (ITA) 2011". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  2. "IFSC Climbing World Championship – Paris (FRA) 2012". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  3. "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2012 – Overall rankings" (PDF). EGroupware@ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  4. http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/world-championships
  5. "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2014 – Combined rankings". IFSC. Archived from the original on 18 September 2018. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  6. "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2016". IFSC. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  7. "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2016 – Overall rankings" (PDF). IFSC. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  8. "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2016 – Overall rankings" (PDF). EGroupware@ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  9. "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2018". IFSC. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  10. "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2018 – Combined results". IFSC. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  11. "IFSC announce Paraclimbing World Championships 2019 will take place in Briançon, France". www.thebmc.co.uk. Retrieved 2019-06-29.
  12. "IFSC PARACLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS - BRIANÇON (FRA) 2019".
  13. "IFSC Plenary Assembly 2019 – A full recap". IFSC. 16 March 2019. Retrieved 17 May 2019.
  14. "IFSC Rules 2018" (PDF).
  15. "Paraclimbing Categories: Explained | Team GB Paraclimber". Abbie Robinson. 2018-12-07. Retrieved 2019-06-29.
  16. "The 1st IFSC PARACLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS - ARCO (ITA) - July 18-19, 2011 - SPEED" (PDF).
  17. "The 1st IFSC PARACLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS - ARCO (ITA) - July 18-19, 2011 - LEAD" (PDF).
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