Kalach (food)

Kalach, kalács, kolach, kolač, or colac (Russian: калач, Ukrainian: кaлач or колач, Hungarian: kalács, Serbian: колач / kolač, Bulgarian: колач, Romanian: colac), is a traditional Eastern European bread, commonly served during various ritual meals.[1] The name originates from the Old Slavonic word kolo (коло) meaning "circle", "wheel".

Kalach

Type	Sweet bread
Place of origin	Russia, Ukraine, Hungary Serbia, Bulgaria, Romania
Main ingredients	Wheat flour
Cookbook: Kalach

Hungarian tradition

The Hungarian kalács (pronounced [ˈkɒlaːtʃ]) is a sweet bread very similar to brioche, usually baked in a braided form, and traditionally considered an Easter food. Until the end of the 19th century, the preparation of kalács was similar to that of everyday bread; the difference was in the shape, and in the better/quality flour used for the kalács. Nowadays kalács is prepared from dough enriched with milk and eggs.[2] It is baked in an oven or brick oven, sometimes directly on the stones of the brick oven, or on a baking sheet.

Kalács is part of the traditional Easter menu in Hungary, often consecrated together with ham in Catholic churches. In the Szeged region at All Saints unfilled kalács was baked called All Saints' Kalács (mindenszentek kalácsa, kolduskalács = Beggar's Kalács), which was given to beggars at the gate of the graveyard. Also kalács was given to beggars praying at the graveyard's gate in Csallóköz to prevent the dead from returning.[3] Giving kalács to beggars is the Christian form of the pagan tradition of treating the dead.[4]

Romanian tradition

Making colaci

The traditional Romanian colac is a braided bread, typically made for special occasions or holidays, such as Christmas, Easter, weddings, and funerals.[5] It is a traditional custom of Romanian rural society, on Christmas Eve, to gather in groups, to go in different houses and to sing colinde, traditional Christmas carols. In some villages, they go first to the mayor's house, followed by the teacher's house, whereas in other parts there is no pre-established order. The families would then invite them into the house, and give them different small gifts such as nuts, dried fruits, and colacs.

The word came from Slavic kolač and ultimately from Proto-Slavic kolo ("circle", "wheel") referring to the circular form.[6] The word may be cognate with challah (Hebrew: חלה‎ ḥallah) and Greek ϰολλιξ.

Russian tradition

Boris Kustodiev. A merchant's wife drinking tea, 1923. A kalach in the form of a kettlebell is depicted as was common in central and northern parts of Russia.

In modern Russian, kalach refers to a specific type of twisted white bread. Historically, kalach meant any kind of white bread, and before modern methods of grinding wheat came into use, white bread was classed as a type of fancy bread.

Kalach usually looks like a circle, but one part of is it significantly thinner, and the other is significantly thicker. The traditional explanation is that the thinner part was used as a "handle" so kalach could be eaten even by workers who had no time to wash their hands. After eating, the handle was thrown away or given to the poor. Because only desperate people ate the handles that had been thrown away, this is thought to be the origin of the Russian saying "go down to the handle" (дойти до ручки, doyti do ruchki) meaning to experience a profound setback, to hit rock bottom.

Cultural legacy

A man who made kalaches was called a kalachnik (калачник), which sometimes became kalashnik (калашник) due to the sandhi effect. Such a man's descendants might be given the surname Kalachnikov (Калачников) or Kalashnikov (Калашников, "[son] of the kalach-maker").

Ukrainian tradition

Ukrainian kolaches are made by braiding dough made with wheat flour into ring-shaped or oblong forms. They are a symbol of luck, prosperity, and good bounty, and are traditionally prepared for Svyat Vechir (Holy Supper), the Ukrainian Christmas Eve ritual.

For Christmas kolach three braided loaves of varied sizes are stacked representing the Trinity.[7] The bread's circular shape symbolizes eternity. When served as part of Christmas dinner, a candle is placed in the center of the intricately braided loaves, but the bread can't be eaten until Christmas Day because observance of the Advent fasting requires abstaining from eggs until midnight on Christmas Eve.[8]

For funerals, the loaves are brought to church for Divine Liturgy to be blessed and then served in slices with fresh fruit as a symbol of the good the deceased did in their lifetime. Exact customs vary but as an example the three loaves are decorated with three apples, three oranges, and grapes, with a candle placed in the center. Sometimes a small individual loaf is given.[7]

In the area around Kiev, it was custom for a midwife to give a kolach as a gift to parents, as part of a fertility blessing.[9] Kalaches were also used in funeral ceremonies.[10] As well in Galicia and Bukovina they were given by children to their godparents in ceremony called a kolachyny (кола́чини) or kolachannya (кола́чання).[11]

The Bread Museum in L'viv, Ukraine, contains many examples of intricately woven kalach, paska, and babka.[12]

See also

• Challah, Jewish braided bread
• Slava Kolach, a Serbian orthodox bread
• Covrigi
• Kołacz, Polish pastry
• Kolache, Czech pastry
• Korovai, another Slavic braided bread

References

1. Nokony, Vkka A. (1989). "The Ukrainian Museum of Canada". Material History Bulletin (Spring).
2. Ortutay Gyula (1979). Magyar néprajzi lexikon II. (F–Ka). Budapest: Akadémiai. ISBN 963-05-1287-4. Retrieved 2008-10-04.
3. Paládi-Kovács Attila, ed. (1988). Magyar néprajz. Budapest: Akadémiai Kiadó. ISBN 963-05-4922-0. Retrieved 2008-10-04.
4. Bálint Sándor (2004). Ünnepi kalendárium 2. A Mária-ünnepek és jelesebb napok hazai és közép-európai hagyományvilágából (2008-10-04). Budapest: Neumann Kht. ISBN 963-360-044-8.
5. "Colac" (in Romanian). DEX online: Dictionar Explicativ al Limbii Romane (Romanian online dictionary).
6. Colac (in Romanian). DEX online: Dictionar Explicativ al Limbii Romane (Romanian online dictionary). References: Miklosich, Slaw. Elem., 25; Cihac, II, 67; Conev 66
7. Look and Feel: Studies In Texture, Appearance and Incidental Characteristics of Food. p. 150.
8. "Sweet Treats around the World: An Encyclopedia of Food and Culture: An Encyclopedia of Food and Culture". p. 346. ABC-CLIO.
9. Boriak, Olena (2010). "The Midwife in Traditional Ukrainian Culture: Ritual, Folklore". Folklorica. doi:10.17161/folklorica.v7i2.3723.
10. Havryl’iuk, Natalia (2003). "The Structure and Function of Funeral Rituals and Customs in Ukraine". Folklorica. VIII (2). Archived from the original on 2012-11-30.
11. "колачини - Словник української мови - значення слова, це".
12. karpaty.info. "Museum of Bread — Lviv". www.karpaty.info.

External links

• Media related to Kalachi at Wikimedia Commons