Mount Vancouver

Mount Vancouver is the 15th highest mountain in North America. Its southern side lies in Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve at the top of the Alaska panhandle, while its northern side is in Kluane National Park and Reserve in the southwestern corner of Yukon, Canada. Mount Vancouver has three summits: north, middle, and south, with the middle summit being the lowest. The south summit, Good Neighbor Peak at 4,785 m (15,699 ft), straddles the international border while the north summit is slightly higher at 4,812 m (15,787 ft).[3]

This article is about the mountain in Canada and the United States. For the mountain in New Zealand, see Mount Vancouver (New Zealand).
Mount Vancouver
Mt. Vancouver, distant middle in August 2008
Highest point
Elevation4,812 m (15,787 ft) [1]
Prominence2,692 m (8,832 ft) [1]
Listing
Coordinates60°21′32″N 139°41′53″W [2]
Geography
Mount Vancouver
Location in Alaska, United States and Yukon, Canada
LocationYukon, Canada / Yakutat City and Borough, Alaska, United States
Parent rangeSaint Elias Mountains
Topo mapNTS 115B/05
USGS Mount Saint Elias B-5
Climbing
First ascentJuly 5, 1949[2]
Easiest routeMajor Expedition

The mountain was named by William Healey Dall in 1874 after George Vancouver, who explored the southeast coast of Alaska from 1792 to 1794.[2]

Notable Ascents
  • 1949 North Buttress (northwest ridge): FA of mountain by William Hainsworth, Alan Bruce-Robertson, Bob McCarter, Noel Odell; with Walter Wood in support.[4]
  • 1975 Northeast Ridge (to north peak), FA by Cliff Cantor, Bob Dangel, Paul Ledoux, Rob Milne, Hal Murray, Bob Walker, John Yates and Barton DeWolf.[5]
  • 1977 West Face, FA by John Lauchlan, John Calvert, Trevor Jones and Mike Sawyer.[6]
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See also

References
  1. "Mount Vancouver, Yukon Territory". Peakbagger.com. Retrieved 2012-12-14.
  2. "Mount Vancouver". Geographic Names Information System. United States Geological Survey. Retrieved 2008-09-24.
  3. "True Location of Mount Vancouver". Bivouac.com. Retrieved 2015-08-21.
  4. Scott p. 139
  5. DeWolf, Barton (1976). "Mount Vancouver, Northeast Ridge". American Alpine Journal. New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club. 20 (50): 462–463. ISBN 978-0-930410-73-5. Retrieved 2019-08-22.
  6. Scott p. 318
Sources
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