AllSaints

AllSaints is a British fashion retailer headquartered in London, UK.[1][2][3] AllSaints sells menswear, womenswear apparel, footwear, and accessories in 232 stores, and has approximately 3,200 employees across 27 countries and regions including the UK, France, Ireland, USA, Canada, Russia, South Korea and Taiwan. Currently, 85% of the company is owned by Lion Capital LLP.[4][5][6]

AllSaints
IndustryFashion
Founded1994
HeadquartersLondon, United Kingdom
Number of locations
232 stores
Area served
Worldwide
Number of employees
3,200
Websitewww.AllSaints.com

History

Founding (1994–98)

AllSaints was founded in 1994 by Stuart Trevor, and Kait Bolongaro, who was the original womenswear designer at AllSaints, and who have since gone on to found the Bolongaro Trevor label. AllSaints started as a wholesale menswear brand that sold exclusively to high-end retailers such as Harvey Nichols and Harrods.[5][7][8] The company was named after Stuart Trevor's pseudonym, "The Saint", based on his initials "ST" and updated at the 1993 Notting Hill Carnival that he attended, spending much of his time on All Saints Road.[9][10][11] The first stand-alone AllSaints store was opened in Foubert Place off Carnaby Street in London on AllSaints Day in 1997.[12][13] The company's first womenswear collection followed the next year (1998), born directly out of the expanding menswear collection.[7][14]

Growth and expansion (1999–2016)

By mid-2004, AllSaints had expanded to 10 stores in the UK and was poised to launch its childrenswear line.[15] Between mid-2004 and the end of 2005, controversial fashion financier Kevin Stanford, co-founder of womenswear chain Karen Millen, bought out each of AllSaints partners besides Stuart Trevor, thus acquiring a majority stake in the company.[8][15][16] Finally in December 2005, Stanford bought out Trevor's stake in the company as well.[8] In 2006, AllSaints sold a 35% stake in the company to Icelandic investment firm, Baugur Group, with Kevin Stanford as the majority shareholder.[17][18] In late 2006, the company launched its e-commerce website.[7][19]

AllSaints store at the Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas in Las Vegas, Nevada

AllSaints rapidly expanded globally in 2009–10.[9][20][21] That same year the company launched its U.S.-specific e-commerce site and opened its first U.S. store in New York City.[19][20][22] Starting in 2009, AllSaints opened stores all across the United States; including New York, Boston, Los Angeles, San Francisco, Miami, Washington, D.C., Santa Monica, Seattle and Chicago.[2][23][24] By 2010, the cost of North American expansion was £43 million. Approximately half of revenues now come from overseas and the company has approximately 3,200 employees, with an average age of 27.[25]

In 2016 AllSaints launched its first stores in Italy, Turkey, Chile, Peru and Qatar. Taiwan and Dubai.[26]

In October of 2018 AllSaints partnered with Revlon to launch its first fragrance line featuring Metal Wave, Incense City, and Sunset Riot.

Acquisition by Lion Capital (2011–12)

In April 2011, due to mismanagement by Kevin Stanford, rapid expansion, and the collapse of Icelandic investment firm Baugur Group, All Saints was £53 million in debt and on the brink of collapse.[27][28] In May 2011, citing AllSaints' international potential and online presence, Lion Capital LLP, the British private equity firm headed by Lyndon Lea, combined with Goode Partners to purchase a 76% stake in AllSaints Spitalfields for £105 million.[4][29][30][31] Lion Capital effectively saved AllSaints from collapse, which would have resulted in the loss of 3,000 jobs.[32][32][33] The firm began to take an active role in day-to-day management, and hired 8 new top executives to manage the company.[5][31] In 2012, Wil Beedle, formerly men’s design director, was appointed Chief Creative Officer overseeing the design and creative vision for all product categories.[34]

In March 2012, Goode Partners sold its 11% stake to Lion Capital as well as another 11% stake it held with other co-investors, leaving Lion Capital with an 85% stake in AllSaints.[6][5]

In 2012, Lion Capital brought in William Kim, an industry veteran whose career included several years at Gucci Group and most recently Burberry, to be Chief Executive Officer. Under CEO William Kim’s leadership, the company has successfully turned around its fortunes, with latest results announcing a revenue increase of 6% over the previous year to £231.1 million, with an increase of 41% in EBITDA to £24.4 million, the largest EBITDA in the company’s history.[35]

Products and aesthetic

As of 2015, AllSaints sells Menswear, Womenswear, Footwear, and accessories through its department store locations, stand-alone retail stores and its website.[3][36][37] The brand launched its first comprehensive handbag line, "The Capital Collection" in September 2015.[38]

AllSaints has had a connection to popular culture since its founding in 1994 when it was named after a famous London street (All Saints Road in Notting Hill).[9][10] Young American and British celebrities are seen and photographed wearing AllSaints clothes to events and entering or leaving AllSaints stores.[39][40][41][42]

Music

The company's strongest connection to date has been to the music industry, where they have collaborated with many established musical acts, including: Kings of Leon, Blonde Redhead, and the Dum Dum Girls.[7][43] AllSaints hosts a series of live music performances in Los Angeles titled "The LA Sessions".[44]including global artists such as OneRepublic, Echosmith and Mikky Ekko.

In 2010, the English rapper Tinie Tempah released a single titled "Frisky" that entered the UK Singles Chart at #2 and mentioned the brand in one of the lyrics: "I think I found a winner, with no ring around her finger. Her dress from AllSaints, but I think I’ve found a sinner".[45][46] In 2013, Justin Timberlake released a single titled "Suit & Tie" featuring Jay-Z in which Jay-Z also mentioned the brand in the lyrics: "Tom Ford tuxedos for no reason. AllSaints for my angel. Alexander Wang too".[47]

In 2011, AllSaints launched a project called "Basement Sessions" that features weekly performances and interviews from both emerging and established musical acts.[20][48][49] Acts who have appeared on Basement Sessions include: Calvin Harris, Fatboy Slim, Aloe Blacc, DJ Harvey, Gary Numan, Tricky, The Naked and Famous, Kelis, Foster the People, and Alpines.[49][50]

Activism and philanthropy

In addition to music, AllSaints is also active in social causes and public service.[51] In Summer 2011, the company entered into a long-term partnership with the Not For Sale organization and launched a T-shirt line whose profits go toward combating human trafficking.[52] Later that year, AllSaints released a short documentary titled Voices of the Cloth intended to promote British design and manufacturing.[53][54] The company currently sponsors eight scholarships in MSc International Fashion Marketing to Glasgow Caledonian University, London.[7][55]

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References
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  2. Smith, Adam, "The Biritsh Invade America Again Archived 2012-07-03 at the Wayback Machine", Fast Company, 1 October 2010.
  3. Company Info. AllSaints Official Website.
  4. Hawkes, Alex, "AllSaints Saved by Lion Capital", The Guardian, 5 May 2011. Amended 9 May 2011.
  5. Mattioli, Dana., "PE Firm Bows Out of Fashion Shop AllSaints", Wall Street Journal Deal Journal Blog, 22 March 2012.
  6. Hall, James., "AllSaints Bought by Lion Capital and Goode Partners for £105", The Telegraph, 6 May 2011.
  7. "AllSaints Fashion – Clothing, Accessories, Jewellery & Footwear", London Fashion Review, 10 March 2011. Updated 12 November 2011.
  8. Weir, Laura. Stuart Trevor profile. Drapers Online. 20 October 2008.
  9. Finch, Julia. AllSaints Go Marching In. The Guardian. 11 June 2010.
  10. Martinez, Amy. Edgy Fashion Retailer AllSaints to Take Former Coldwater Creek Space. Seattle Times. 5 May 2010.
  11. All Saints Road
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  13. "Lion Capital and Goode Partners to Acquire AllSaints Spitalfields Archived 2013-11-07 at the Wayback Machine", AngelNews, 6 May 2011.
  14. Waight, Emma. "What's in Store at AllSaints Archived 2016-10-29 at the Wayback Machine", clothes.org.uk. 4 April 2012.
  15. "Stanford Buys Stake in AllSaints as its Expansion Push Continues", Retail Week, 24 September 2004.
  16. Bowers, Simon. House of Fraser says Kevin Stanford 'not welcome' back in boardroom. The Guardian. 29 April 2012.
  17. Ruddick, Graham, "Retail Entrepreneur Kevin Stanford in Talks to Buy AllSaints Stake", The Telegraph, 7 February 2009.
  18. Bowers, Simon, "Fashion tycoon Kevin Stanford plans House of Fraser comeback", The Guardian, 22 April 2012.
  19. AllSaints Spitalfields. drivebusiness.com.
  20. "AllSaints Spitalfields Sale Continues Archived 2012-06-15 at the Wayback Machine", EPR, 19 January 2012.
  21. Thompson, James, "AllSaints Delivers Heavenly Profits and Sales", The Independent, 29 April 2010.
  22. Fair, S. S., "The Samurai Shopper Takes a Pal", New York Times T Magazine. 18 July 2011.
  23. "AllSaints Spitalfields Continue Widely Acclaimed Basement Sessions", EPR, 17 February 2012.
  24. Jones, Sandra, "Retailers Tap into iPad, Hoping Device Will Help You Buy", Chicago Tribune, 21 February 2011.
  25. Hounslea, Tara, "The Drapers Interview: William Kim on spreading the AllSaints gospel", Drapers Online, 12 November 2015.
  26. Mohammadi, Ameneh, "AllSaints Launches Its First Store In The Middle East" Ahlan!, 3 September 2015.
  27. Barrett, Claer, "All Saints on brink of rescue deal", Financial Times, 26 April 2011.
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  29. "AllSaints Fashion Chain Saved From Collapse", The Guardian, 5 May 2011.
  30. "AllSaints Rescued by Private Equity Firms". Just-Style. 5 May 2011.
  31. Holland, Tiffany. Dixons Etail Boss Joins AllSaints Global Push. Drapers Online. 2 June 2018.
  32. Gray, Rebecca, "Saviour rescues All Saints stores", Evening Times. 6 May 2011.
  33. Chapman, Matthew, "All Saints boss quits due to 'untenable' situation", Marketing Magazine. 27 September 2011.
  34. Jacob Brown, "Meet AllSaints Creative Director Wil Beedle", Vogue, 16 September 2013.
  35. Hipwell, Deirdre, "AllSaints’ revival is paying dividends", The Times, 3 November 2015.
  36. Williams, Erin. "AllSaints Spitalfields Opens its Doors in Georgetown", Washington Post The Style Blog, 11 July 2011.
  37. "AllSaints Spitalfields", New York Magazine.
  38. Conlon, Scarlett, "A New Era At AllSaints", Vogue, 23 July 2015.
  39. Chiang, Bee-Shyuan, "Dressing Against Character", New York Times, 14 October 2011.
  40. Chiang, Bee-Shyuan, "In Something Familiar with All Her Black", New York Times, 1 December 2011.
  41. "Emma Watson Hearts AllSaints Archived 2012-06-24 at the Wayback Machine", LOOK Magazine, 19 September 2008.
  42. "Zac's Heavenly Body is Too Hot to Handle", X17, 12 February 2010.
  43. "AllSaints Announces Basement Session with the Legendary DJ Harvey", Houston Chronicle, 28 February 2012.
  44. AllSaints Studios.
  45. Archive Chart. UK Singles Chart. 19 June 2010.
  46. "Frisky" Lyrics. elyrics.net.
  47. ""Suit & Tie" lyrics Archived 2013-02-12 at the Wayback Machine", elyrics.net.
  48. We Have Band Releases AllSaints Live Session Archived 2012-04-10 at the Wayback Machine. AltSounds. 6 February 2012.
  49. Basement Sessions Page. AllSaints Official Website.
  50. "Basement Sessions Channel Playlist", YouTube.
  51. "AllSaints Spitalfields Launches Partnership with Not For Sale", Yahoo! News, 1 December 2011.
  52. Faulkner, Ruth, "AllSaints to launch T-shirt line to support anti-human trafficking", Drapers Online, 31 August 2011.
  53. Faulkner, Ruth, "AllSaints Releases UK Manufacturing Film", Drapers Online. 12 December 2011.
  54. "Voices of the Cloth: A Documentary Film", YouTube. 23 November 2011.
  55. "GCU London Scholarships Program Archived 2015-07-22 at the Wayback Machine", GCU London Website. Accessed 4 July 2012.
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