Steam Deck Front Shell Replacement

Written By: Carsten Frauenheim

Comments: 127

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

103

Time Required

3 - 5 hours

Introduction

Use this guide to remove or replace the front shell (front cover) on a Steam Deck LCD.

Remember: follow general electrostatic discharge (ESD) safety procedures while repairing your device.

This procedure involves almost a complete disassembly, including removing the display! Know what you're getting yourself into. You'll need replacement adhesives for the display and speakers.

Tools

Parts

Steam Deck Front Plate

Step 1

Turn on your Steam Deck and allow the battery to discharge below 25% before starting your repairs, as a charged lithium-ion polymer battery can be dangerous if accidentally punctured.
As an extra precaution, Valve recommends putting your Steam Deck into battery storage mode within the BIOS before starting any internal repairs. Read how to do that here.
Power down your Steam Deck and unplug any cables.
If you have a microSD card installed, make sure to remove it before opening the Steam Deck. If you attempt to remove the back cover with it still installed, it could snap right in half.
During your repair, it can be helpful at times to lay the Steam Deck face-down into its case to protect the thumbsticks and prevent wobble.

Step 2

Use a Phillips driver to remove the eight screws securing the back cover:
Four coarse thread 9.5 mm-long screws
Four fine thread 5.8 mm-long screws
Despite the standards, Phillips screwdrivers can vary in size and shape—two drivers labeled as the same size may fit differently in the same screw. Use the size that fits the snuggest into the screw head.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your Steam Deck.

there should be a picture of the SD card slot at the start of every Steam Deck teardown. i know the note is there but i generally use the pictures to guide me and forgetting to remove the SD card is a very critical step

Nathan Barrow -

I agree, I just broke mine...

Camille B -

What is the the #1 philips used for? Only the #0 is mentioned in the instructions.

Christopher Martin -

I wish they would specify which size to use for which screws.

Mark D -

I found it easiest to use a PH1 for the red screws, and PH0 for the rest (including the internals.)

Chris Clawson -

Be careful you can strip the screws take your time

I use PH00 bit

jaybush74 -

I used the PH1 bit for this. You can use smaller bits but ideally there should be no play of the bit in the screw head.

Charles Semple -

are there playstation replacements (circle,square,cross,triangle)

Deór -

I used the ifixit tools and used the 00 size for the screws on the back.

Luis B - 10/01/23

I've completed the guide and found it very helpful!

I think somewhere in this part it would be helpful to name the size of the correct Phillips driver to use:

Use a Phillips driver to remove the eight screws securing the back cover:

Four 9.5 mm screws

Four 5.8 mm screws

Maynard -

I used the PH1 for the 9.5mm screws and PH00 for the 5.8mm screws. The PH0 wanted to strip one of the small ones.

Pol Llovet -

FYI - 512gb version has blue threadlocker on the Orange screws.

Kyle -

Just a point for knowledge sake, the Four 5.8mm screws on this step are factory installed with a version of locktite. Not sure why but there will be slight resistance when removing the first time.

Derek Schmidlin -

Stripped two of the 5.8mm screws, feel pretty dumb, now I'm stuck at step 2 of 43 :|

Yareyous -

Step 3

Insert an opening pick into the thin gap between the back cover and the front shell, along the edge of the right grip.
If you're having trouble inserting your pick at the grip seam, try starting at either the top or bottom long edges first, then slide the pick towards the grip.
Pry up on the back cover to release it from the locking clips.

I found it easiest to start this process at the top of the device near the fan exit.

Peter Lindberg -

second that and inserting the pick in the bottom middle and sliding the pick to each side

Sub -

I also found the top near the fan exit to be easier

Travis Patton -

Thank you for this tip, it definitely was easy starting at the top instead of by the bumper/triggers. After I opened the top I did the bottom and then it was way easier to gently open the sides. be very careful and go slowly to make sure that none of the clips are damaged

Luis B -

this as suggested above:

1. open the top

2. open the bottom

3.gently open the sides

austrasier - 17/04/23

same; i pried from the top of the screen area. I was unable to find an opening on the side

Dennis Wu -

I also started from the middle of the deck and worked my way out since I couldn't get a grip with the pick on the deck's side grips. Since this is a common step for pretty much all guides for opening the deck I think it's also worth noting that you should be careful not to bend the trims/seams where the front and back covers meet with the pick. When I first opened my deck you can definitely see where I nudged the pick in between the covers since I was probably using too much force on the pick itself.

Kaleb McKone -

It would be useful to note here that if you want to insert the little blue triangular iFixit opening picks into the right side along the edge, there isn't actually a gap as the directions say, at least not on newer Decks. You'll be making the initial gap using the pick. Brace it on something because you will need to use enough downward force that you're flexing the pick a bit and it'll probably be digging into the skin of a bare hand. With enough force suddenly it will make a click and go in just a bit, and then you're in business.

CaptFrost -

plastic picks didnt work for me but finger males did the job on prying this open

jacobbagsic -

I found it easiest to open starting with R1 or L1 buttons and proceeding to the center of the top edge

Karol Gro -

This step was the hardest by far. First I didn't find an opening at the sides, and it did take a really long time until I finally got it open... Then, when I had the one side opening open it didn't just pop out, I needed to slide all the way to the other side with the pick and open everything. I guess they made it even more drop resistant.

Dollique -

Step 4

Once the clips are disconnected from one edge, the rest disconnect easily.
Grip the back cover at the opening you just created and pull it up and away from the device to unclip the long edges.
Remove the back cover.

If you have an SD card, you will want to take it out. I followed the guide and didn't think about the SD card I had inside. When I went to snap the case back on it clapped shut on the exposed SD card, shearing it in half and leaving the bottom half stuck in the SD card slot. I am still endeavoring to get it out.

Novice -

you can use the case that comes with the steam deck to support it once the lid is removed

Luis Barbosa (Armored Saint) -

You can get the pry pick inserted easier if you start in the gap for the shoulder buttons. A lego brick separator works well here

Andrew Borsje -

Step 5

If you have a refreshed Steam Deck version with the black motherboard cover, skip this step.
Use a pair of tweezers to remove the piece of foil tape covering the hidden screw on the board shield.
If possible, try not to rip or tear this tape so it can be reused. If necessary, you can fashion a replacement by cutting a piece of aluminum foil tape to fit.

Use some heat here from a hairdryer to make this part easier.

If you screw up here you can replace the little aluminium square with some aluminium tape from Amazon. No less than 50 microns thick, slightly thicker is fine. and the square is 13mm both ways.

Matt S -

Thanks for that Matt, i destroyed the original tape and i had no solution since i read your comment.

Cihan Kocaman -

there are other new version of board shield from 2023.

Gorf Woo -

Is it alright to use the deck without the tape?

Jake -

You should not. This is EM shielding to protect your processor and ram from radio waves in the air

Andrew Borsje -

I found out my 3 Weeks new Steam Deck is a old Version... gg. Valve...

Miller Schiffer -

wenn ich aluminium foile benutze, womit soll ich sie dann verkleben?

Christian Dud -

If we have the new version with the black shield, how do we access the SSD?

James Bennett -

I need this part, does anyone know where to get it?

rolando norica -

Step 6

Use a Phillips driver to remove the three screws securing the board shield:
One 3.4 mm screw
Two 3.7 mm screws
Only the two 3.7 mm screws along the left edge are present in refreshed Steam Decks.

The procedure ended here for me, used an ifixit PH 00 bit on the screw behind the aluminium tape, bit wouldnt bite too great, one wrong twist and the screw was stripped. Not sure who or what initially screwed in that particular screw as the rest of the screws on the shield were fine, but boy is it in there tight. So now i have a stripped screw and a botched ssd replacement, don't think valve will let me RMA for this, but i'll give it a try and update accordingly.

Y. van S -

Any updates? Did they let you RMA?

Emanuel Gjoni -

I found one screw to be ridiculously tight too, managed to undo it without stripping thanks to reading your comment beforehand and going extra careful. Not going to lie, it was a tense moment :D

Andy HL -

I think the tendency is to go too small on the screwdriver bits because you're working on small electronics.

I used the PH1 bit on the screw under the foil and the PH0 bit for the two remaining screws without any problems.

Charles Semple -

What does this shield actually do? Some kind of magnetic protection?

Corey Cleric -

if I had to replace the key (R2) and that's it, can I directly remove it or do I have to act here on the motherboard too?

pujattidanny -

have you gotten an answer yet? trying to change mines as well but dont wanna do too much to the deck

briaNN -

button Not key, i’m sorry

pujattidanny -

I used the ifixit tools and used the 00 PH for these screws with no issue

Luis B -

If only swapping the SSD, it is not necessary to remove the top left 3.7mm screw. The heat shield is flexible enough that you can move it out of the way to access the SSD screw. For me this was necessary as the 3.7mm screw was completely unmovable and quickly stripped.

Scott A -

FYI there is a little pin on the cover that slots into the board. It is located near the top screw. I needed that to be inserted for the cover to go back down properly.

Seth Robinson -

For anyone who may have stripped a 3.7mm screw, Steam Support states it's M1.6 diameter with a 0.35 thread pitch and a 3mm length. Hopefully that'll help anyone trying to locate a replacement screw. Hoping iFixIt can make an internal screws kit as they're kinda hard to find the right one online.

Michael Dyer -

Did valve change the shield recently as my new 64gb deck has a black shield with no hidden screw.

David Alexander Hubbard -

Yes there's a new hardware revision out there that some people are getting. Consider stopping at this point and putting your deck back together if you have one of these new hardware revisions (the fan is quite different as well to the pictures) until iFixit has an updated repair guide.

Simon Meacham -

There are only 2 screws now, but be careful taking the shield off, because there are still thermal pads under it sticking it to a heat pipe.

Rudolfs Skurulis -

Are they m2 3.7mm screws? I am looking to replace mine because they instantly stripped and I had to remove them with needle nose pliers because they were over tightened.

Nick -

I need this piece, can someone help me where can I find it please?

rolando norica -

Step 7

Remove the board shield.
Depending on the age of your Steam Deck, this shield may stick to the thermal pads underneath.
During reassembly, ensure that the fan cable lays on the side of the board shield and isn't pinched underneath.

When putting back on, run a pick along the edge of the shield between the wires to make sure nothing is pinching and the wires are clear of the shield before screwing down.

Matt S -

During reassembly, ensure that the fan cable lays on the side of the board shield and isn't pinched underneath.

Are you saying that the fan cable should be positioned above the board shield instead of being pressed down by it? Just like the image shows, where it 'lays on the side of the board shield'?

James -

Necesito esta pieza la mía no la traía se ve que se la quitaro

rolando norica -

Step 8

Grip the battery cable by its pull tab and pull it directly away from the motherboard to disconnect it.
Alternatively, use the flat end of a spudger or a clean fingernail to gently push the connector out of its socket, then disconnect it completely by hand.

After fully reassembling my device I found that my battery was not showing any stats anymore. I couldn't start the device without being plugged in, however if I restarted it would stay on even if my power cable was detached. Battery showed 0%. It turns out I had not fully reinserted the battery cable at this stage during reassembly. MAKE SURE YOU PUSH IT ALL THE WAY BACK IN!

Michael Hoffmann -

Awesome thanks for this tip!

petergeranio -

It is helpful to lift up gently with a the tapered end of a spudger underneath the tucked-in portion of the battery cable, creating a bit of flex in the cable before pulling on the pull tab. I found that without doing so, the fabric pull-tab simply tore off of the cable under light-to-moderate force (the fabric itself ripped cleanly across, like a paper towel). Careful, gentle pressure with a spudger can be used to remove the plug by prying gently on the rear ridge of the plastic plug (not the wire!) if this happens.

Gene Eckser - 08/08/22

This is exactly what happened to me. Maybe it was a pull tab previously, mine was a ribbon cable that tore - captured the image here: https://www.ianwootten.co.uk/2022/11/22/...

Ian Wootten -

This was the best approach (and I feel safest for the wiring) for me. Mostly push pressure on the plastic ridge with some minor pull tension on the fabric.

Victor -

I found it less scary and easier to remove the battery connection by using a fingernail on the ridge and pushing it off the connector. I felt like pulling on the battery cable was too harsh.

montgomery mchargue -

Yeah, pulling cables like these is usually ill advice. They might be fine if it's a new device, but for old devices that have been sitting there for years, there's a good chance the connector has grown brittle and the cable might just come off separately (something I learnt the hard way).

skzm -

Upon plugging the battery back in, I found it easy to use two spudgers- one on each side- to pull/push the connector back into it's port. Be careful to not put any pressure on the battery wires themselves.

montgomery mchargue -

When reconnecting the battery cable, you'll know when it's inserted and power is restored, because the white LED will illuminate at the top of the Deck near the power button. You should be able to see it while you're reconnecting the battery cable

Michael Davis -

This is only true if you haven't put the deck into battery storage mode as directed.

Ean Manley -

Why not just let the battery discharge completely and then not have to disconnect it?

Jeffrey Martin -

Completely discharging a battery reduces its lifespan. It's completely unnecessary.

Stefan Camporese (CENTER) - 12/11/22

Because no lipo battery is ever completely discharged -- you would not be able to recharge it if it was. There will always be enough power left in it to cause damage if shorted even if it isn't charged enough to power up the device it's connected to.

David Cameron -

I would personally not recommend pulling the tab. It doesn’t apply force at the correct angle. You should revise these instructions to advise using a combination of pulling on the tab, and careful pressure on the connector towards the right of the mainboard to carefully work it out.

Using the pull tab alone could cause problems if not done extremely carefully.

William Winborne - 09/01/23

This part was wayyyyy easier than I anticipated and I worried for nothing because I used the ifixit spudger to push it out a bit and then I literally used my finger nail and was able to slide it right off. Dont be afraid, its not that difficult and its not that delicate to break if you do it patiently

Luis B - 10/01/23

I inserted the cable very firmly with a spunger, being careful not to press down too hard on the cables, and even tried redoing it, but I don't see any LED illumination. I am now unable to boot the deck into the boot manager. Any additional tips?

junefish -

What is the risk of not unplugging the battery? Just curious!

Nick Hight -

Once I was changing termal paste on my Windows based expensive tablet PC... And I was so scared to disconnect any cables (there was many of them), so I did it all with battery connected (I didn't even knew where is battery cable). When I tried to put board shield back... it didn't go right into needed place... and short circuit some small component. It flashed. That was the end of my repair. Dudies from repair service later told me that multiple components fried including CPU, so repairing is too hard. That's what can happen if you don't disconnect battery.

bugwarlabs - 02/06/23

To pull the battery out I used my spunger, but the batter had actually not space to be pulled out completely. I needed to lift the cable up with the spunger to get the cable fully out. When plugging it in again I had to press the battery down kinda hard so it would fit again. This was really scary and I recommand using two spunger as someone said above.

Dollique -

Does it have to be a clean fingernail?

Steven Murphy -

Step 9

The left trigger will be on your right-hand side when working on the Steam Deck, as it's laying upside down.
The Steam Deck's triggers clip into place on two pegs on the trigger bracket, which doubles as the hinge.
Place the flat end of a spudger onto the inside edge of the trigger's left clip.
Pivot the trigger clip out, away, and up from the peg to unlatch it.
During reassembly, latch the outermost peg first. Once in place, push down on the trigger to latch the innermost peg, producing an audible "click" sound.
Check to make sure that the trigger spring is properly aligned. Test the trigger action before continuing reassembly.

Step 10

Remove the left trigger.
Take care to not lose the trigger spring. It press-fits onto a peg on the trigger's underside.

In case the spring gets lost, it's 19 mm long with about 14 coils.

Claudiu Avram -

Step 11

Use a Phillips driver to remove the three 5.2 mm screws securing the left trigger bracket.

Step 12

Remove the left trigger bracket.
Replacement triggers require calibration to work as expected. To calibrate new triggers, follow this calibration guide.

If I only need to get to this part to check if I have to change the button or the daughterboard, do I HAVE to disconnect the battery ? The less I fiddle with things the more likely it is that I won’t break anything else…

Monsieur_Croco -

Step 13

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the thumbstick cable's ZIF connector.
Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.
Grip the cable by the blue pull tab, not by the cable itself.

Step 14

Use a Phillips driver to remove the three 5.2 mm screws securing the thumbstick.
During reassembly, you may need to hold the Steam Deck off of the work surface so it isn't resting on the new thumbstick while you tighten down the screws.

Step 15

Remove the left thumbstick.

Step 16

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the button board interconnect cable's ZIF connector.
Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.
Grip the cable by the blue pull tab, not by the cable itself.

Interconnect cable is along bottom of left board (on your right hand side). Ought to put a picture of where it is for easier reference.

David Boers -

Step 17

If any connectors are covered with tape, use a pair of tweezers to remove it.
Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flaps on the rest of the button board ZIF connectors. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cables out of their connectors:
Disconnect the D-pad cable.
Disconnect the touchpad board cable.
Disconnect the touchpad cable.

Step 18

Exercise caution when lifting this connector—pry up on the connector itself, not its housing.
Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up on the haptics cable to disconnect it.
Alternatively, you can leave the haptics connected to the button board and flip the board up and over the edge of the shell and out of the way.

Any advice on resoldering a disconnected haptics connector housing?

Will Rarich -

Step 19

Use a Phillips driver to disconnect the four screws securing the left button board:
Three 5.2 mm screws
One 3.9 mm screw

during reassembly you will need to remember to line up board with 2 plastic mounts. pcb has good flex and can push down top to get top screw to line up flush

B P -

also the 2nd cable from the top (the one below shoulder button cable) should be pulled free before tightening your screws lol

B P -

Step 20

Remove the left button board.
Keep track of the Steam button and its membrane, as once the left button board is removed, they're no longer secured in place.

This is useful, but how do I get a Left Button Board? Mine is damaged in the left bumper button micro switch and I need a replacement.

KaizerJV -

i thought i needed to replace L1 but i need to replace daughter board too. Valve has said they will supply left daughter boards they are just sold out rn

B P -

Where can I purchase a board

Charlie Trevino -

I need this board to fix my deck

Avery Jones -

que precio tiene esta pieza, se daño la de mi steam deck

jose cortes -

when will the button board be for sale?

Brett Archey -

L4 button not worked. When will the button board be for sale?

Racoon Family -

Will a button board be available for purchase soon?

Sean Gillum -

Please provide daughter board, l1 button stopped working. Pads lifted off the board.

Alistair Pullen -

Please sell a button board. L1 button stopped working. Seems to be a common issue.

Jimmy -

Step 21

Use a Phillips driver to remove the four 4.7 mm screws securing the touchpad board.

Step 22

Remove the touchpad board.

Step 23

Use a Phillips driver to remove the four 4.7 mm screws securing the touchpad.
You may need to temporarily remove the Steam button membrane for easier access to the bottom left screw.
Each of the touchpad's four mounting corners have a locating peg. During reassembly, ensure each is properly seated.

Step 24

The touchpad's springs are very delicate and are precisely positioned. If bent, the touchpad may rattle or not work as intended.
From the front of the Steam Deck, use your finger to push the left touchpad partway through the front shell to unseat it.
Lift the touchpad out from underneath the overhanging section of the midframe.
Remove the touchpad.

Step 25

The right trigger will be on your left-hand side when working on the Steam Deck, as it's laying upside down.
The Steam Deck's triggers clip into place on two pegs on the trigger bracket, which doubles as the hinge.
Place the flat end of a spudger onto the inside edge of the trigger's right clip.
Pivot the trigger clip out, away, and up from the peg to unlatch it.
During reassembly, latch the outermost peg first. Once in place, push down on the trigger to latch the innermost peg, producing an audible "click" sound.
Check to make sure that the trigger spring is properly aligned. Test the trigger action before continuing reassembly.

Step 26

Remove the right trigger.
Take care to not lose the trigger spring. It press-fits onto a peg on the trigger's underside.

This is by far the hardest part of the entire assembly. I don't know if its because I dropped mine but the trigger takes an incredible amount of force to get off, don't be afraid to break it. I still have no idea how to put the trigger back on, it just wont budge.

J4CK T -

In case the spring gets lost, it's 19 mm long with about 14 coils.

Claudiu Avram -

Step 27

Use a Phillips driver to remove the three 5.2 mm screws securing the right trigger bracket.

Step 28

Remove the right trigger bracket.
Replacement triggers require calibration to work as expected. To calibrate new triggers, follow this calibration guide.

The right bumper button on my switch deck stopped working after the deck was accidentally dropped from 5ft. When I got to this step of the instructions, I was able to see that the momentary switch that the button triggers had been bent backwards from the impact, making it difficult for the button to trigger the switch. I bent the switch back to its original position, which fixed the mechanical problem. Unfortunately the solder joints for the switch cracked when I pressed the switch forward. I re-flowed the solder joints with a tiny Weber iron that I filed down to a narrow point. The button works properly now.

Paul Krakow -

Step 29

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the thumbstick cable's ZIF connector.
Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.
Grip the cable by the blue pull tab, not by the cable itself.

Step 30

Use a Phillips driver to remove the three 5.2 mm screws securing the thumbstick.
During reassembly, you may need to hold the Steam Deck off of the work surface so it isn't resting on the new thumbstick while you tighten down the screws.

Step 31

Remove the right thumbstick.

Step 32

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the button board cable's ZIF connector.
Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.
Grip the cable by the blue pull tab, not by the cable itself.

Step 33

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the button board interconnect cable's ZIF connector.
Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.
Grip the cable by the blue pull tab, not by the cable itself.

Be very mindful of this cable during re-assembly, if this cable isn't fully seated properly the deck will turn on slowly and not be able to recognize any inputs besides the touch screen.

Peter Lindberg -

Step 34

If any connectors are covered with tape, use a pair of tweezers to remove it.
Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flaps on the rest of the button board ZIF connectors. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cables out of their connectors:
Disconnect the action buttons cable.
Disconnect the touchpad board cable.
Disconnect the touchpad cable.

Be especially careful disconnecting and reconnecting the touchpad cable. It is short and can pull out on the touchpad side fairly easily. Reconnecting it requires splitting open the touchpad itself which is difficult to do without damaging the springs.

acey_zero -

Step 35

Exercise caution when lifting this connector—pry up on the connector itself, not its housing.
Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up on the haptics cable to disconnect it.
Alternatively, you can leave the haptics connected to the button board and flip the board up and over the edge of the shell and out of the way.

Personally, i think this should just be a suggested step, since the connector is different and requires more force to disconnect than the ribbon cable connectors and you can leave this connected and lay the board over to the side without disconnecting this and still access the buttons.

Peter Lindberg -

I agree with Peter on this. I tried fixing my right bumper before ordering a replacement and during disassembly I followed these instructions exactly and still broke the bracket that holds the haptics connector. Luckily my haptics seem to still be working after putting it back together but I have a feeling it will disconnect on its own after some time and I will be needing a whole new button board.

Biscuits -

I did this very carefully and the bracket still broke

Christian McCarthy -

I broke the down part of the bracket as well. Glued it back on with some crazy glue applied with a wooden toothpick (to make sure to not touch anything else). Haptics still working. Next time I don't think I'll remove that connector.

Sébastien M -

Leave the haptic connector on and just move the button board out of the way. You will likely brake the haptic connector bracket by trying to remove it.

Frank -

I agree with everyone above. Attempting to disconnect the haptics is not worth it as it breaks extremely easily

Vince Gmerek -

Please remove this step. It is virtually impossible to remove this without breaking the housing and it's ultimately not necessary.

Eric Benante -

Wish I had seen this beforehand. My right connector just broke off. Ughhh.

Eric Merriweather -

Step 36

Use a Phillips driver to disconnect the four screws securing the right button board:
Three 5.2 mm screws
One 3.9 mm screw

Step 37

Remove the right button board.
Keep track of the quick access button and its membrane, as once the right button board is removed, they're no longer secured in place.

Step 38

Use a Phillips driver to remove the four 4.7 mm screws securing the touchpad board.

Step 39

Remove the touchpad board.

Step 40

Use a Phillips driver to remove the four 4.7 mm screws securing the touchpad.
You may need to temporarily remove the quick access button membrane for easier access to the bottom right screw.
Each of the touchpad's four mounting corners have a locating peg. During reassembly, ensure each is properly seated.

Step 41

The touchpad's springs are very delicate and are precisely positioned. If bent, the touchpad may rattle or not work as intended.
From the front of the Steam Deck, use your finger to push the right touchpad partway through the front shell to unseat it.
Lift the touchpad out from underneath the overhanging section of the midframe.
Remove the touchpad.

配件要去哪買觸控板 qaq

櫻輝雪 -

Step 42

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the quick access button membrane.

Step 43

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the quick access button.

Step 44

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the Steam button membrane.

Step 45

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the Steam button.

Step 46

Use a Phillips driver to remove the 3.4 mm screw securing the SSD.

Step 47

With the SSD screw removed, the SSD will pop up at a shallow angle.
Grip the end of the SSD and pull it away from its M.2 board connector to remove it.
During reassembly, insert the SSD at a shallow angle into its board connector, and secure it back into its horizontal position with the SSD screw.

Step 48

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the sticker from the top edge of the fan.
If possible, try not to rip or tear this sticker so it can be reused. Use a little bit of heat if necessary to soften the adhesive.

If you feel comfortable completing step 51 (disconnecting the fan) with the heat sink in place, this step can be skipped. You can then remove the heat sink and the fan as a unit, leaving the sticker intact.

Ean Manley -

Step 49

Use a Phillips driver to loosen and remove the two screws securing the heatsink to the motherboard:
One captive 3.5 mm screw
One 3.4 mm screw
No, your eyes don't deceive you! The third heatsink screw was removed earlier in the disassembly: it doubles as the hidden board shield screw.

Step 50

Lift and remove the heatsink.
Before reinstalling the heatsink, follow this guide to clean the heatsink and APU and reapply thermal paste.

Step 51

Use a pair of tweezers to grip the edges of the fan connector and pull up to disconnect it from the motherboard.
Pull the fan cable by its connector, not the wires themselves.

Step 52

Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 3.7 mm screws securing the fan.
The other two fan screws were removed earlier in the disassembly: they double as two back cover screws.

Step 53

Remove the fan.

Step 54

Use a pair of tweezers to grip the edges of the speaker connector and pull up to disconnect it from the motherboard.
Pull the speaker cable by its connector, not the wires themselves.

Step 55

Use a pair of tweezers to peel up and remove the Wi-Fi shield tape.
If possible, try not to rip or tear this sticker so it can be reused. Use a little bit of heat if necessary to soften the adhesive.

Step 56

Use a pair of tweezers to grip the antenna connector close to its base.
Pull straight up to disconnect the cable.
Repeat for the second antenna cable.
During reassembly, ensure that both antenna cables are reconnected at their appropriate connectors. The labels on the cables match the markings on the Wi-Fi module.
To reconnect each cable, align the connector directly over its socket, and then press down so it snaps into place.

Step 57

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the display cable's ZIF connector.
Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.
Grip the cable by the pull tab, not by the cable itself.

Step 58

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the audio cable's ZIF connector.

Step 59

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.
Grip the cable by its pull tab, not by the cable itself.

Step 60

Carefully peel the audio cable off of the battery.
The audio cable is secured to the battery with some light adhesive.
If the adhesive is stubborn, don't force the cable. Lightly heat the audio cable using an iOpener or a hair dryer to soften the adhesive.

Step 61

Use a Phillips driver to remove the three 3.7 mm screws securing the motherboard.

Step 62

Remove the motherboard.
The audio and button board cables attach to the underside of the motherboard with ZIF connectors.

Step 63

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up on the mic cable's white locking tab.
You should feel a small tactile bump once the connector unlocks.
Use a pair of tweezers to pull the mic cable up and out of its connector.
With the connector properly unlocked, the mic cable should slide out with little to no resistance.
During reassembly, ensure that the locking tab is in its unlocked, lifted position before reinserting the mic cable. Press down on the tab to lock the cable in place.

Step 64

Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 3.7 mm screws securing the audio board.

Step 65

Use a pair of tweezers to grip the audio board by the headphone jack.
Pivot the board up and out of its recess to remove it.

Step 66

Use a pair of tweezers to peel up the tape bundling the speaker wire to the Wi-Fi antenna cables.

Step 67

Use a pair of tweezers to peel up the various strips of black tape routing the speaker wire along the bottom edge of the chassis.

Step 68

Insert the flat end of a spudger between the right speaker and the frame.
Pivot the spudger up to separate the speaker from the light adhesive securing it against the front shell.
If the adhesive is stubborn, don't force the speaker out. Lightly heat it using an iOpener or a hair dryer to soften the adhesive underneath.

Step 69

Use a pair of tweezers to grip and remove the right speaker from its cavity.

Step 70

Insert the flat end of a spudger between the left speaker and the frame.
Pivot the spudger up to separate the speaker from the light adhesive securing it against the front shell.
If the adhesive is stubborn, don't force the speaker out. Lightly heat it using an iOpener or a hair dryer to soften the adhesive underneath.

Step 71

Use a pair of tweezers to grip and remove the left speaker from its cavity.

Step 72

Remove the tethered right and left speakers.

Step 73

Use a pair of tweezers to peel back the sticker covering the display connector.
If possible, try not to rip or tear this sticker so it can be reused. Use a little bit of heat if necessary to soften the adhesive.

Step 74

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the display cable's ZIF connector.
Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.

Step 75

Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the display for one minute.
A hair dryer or heat gun may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the Steam Deck—displays and internal batteries are both susceptible to heat damage.

Step 76

Apply a suction cup to the top left corner of the display by pressing down on it to create suction, as close to the edge as possible.
If your screen is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken glass.
Pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap between the display and the frame.
Insert the point of an opening pick into the gap.
Don't insert the pick more than 1/8 of an inch (~3 mm) or you risk damaging the display panel, ambient light sensor, or fragile cable underneath.

Step 77

Slide the opening pick no more than 3 mm deep across the top edge to slice the adhesive.

Step 78

Heat the right edge of the display for one minute.

Step 79

Slide the opening pick down the right edge to slice the adhesive.

Step 80

Heat the bottom edge of the display for one minute.

Step 81

Slide the opening pick across the bottom edge to slice the adhesive.

Step 82

Heat the left edge of the display for one minute.
Slide the opening pick across the left edge to slice the adhesive.

Step 83

Once you have sliced around the perimeter of the display, carefully lift the right edge up, opening it like a book.
Remove the display.
During reassembly, if you’d like to install new display adhesive strips, follow these steps after removing your old adhesive strips from your current display.

Step 84

Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 5.2 mm screws securing the left bumper assembly.

Step 85

Remove the left bumper assembly.

Step 86

Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 5.2 mm screws securing the right bumper assembly.

Step 87

Remove the right bumper assembly.

Step 88

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the D-pad membrane.

Step 89

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the D-pad.
During reassembly, align the D-pad button such that the short side is facing towards the Steam Deck's outer edge.

Step 90

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the action buttons membrane.

Step 91

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the four action buttons, A, B, X, and Y.
During reassembly, don't worry! The buttons are keyed—they can only be reinstalled in one orientation.

Step 92

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the view button.

Step 93

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the menu button.

Step 94

Use a Phillips driver to remove the six 2.3 mm screws securing the midframe to the front shell, located on the front side.
To prevent these tight screws from stripping, apply firm downward force, work slowly and try a different Phillips driver if the screws won't come out.

Step 95

Use a Phillips driver to remove the four 5.2 mm screws securing the midframe to the front shell.

Step 96

Remove the midframe.

Step 97

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift the rubber flap to the left of the volume buttons up and out of its plastic clip.

Step 98

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the volume buttons by pulling them up and away from the front shell.

Step 99

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift the rubber flap to the right of the power button up and out of its plastic clip.

Step 100

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift the rubber flap to the left of the power button up and out of its plastic clip.
Remove the power button.

Step 101

Insert the flat end of a spudger under the left end of the mic cable and pry upwards to peel it up from the front shell.
The mic cable is secured to the front shell with some light adhesive.
If the adhesive is stubborn, don't force the cable. Lightly heat the mic cable using an iOpener or a hair dryer to soften the adhesive.

Step 102

Insert the flat end of a spudger under the right end of the mic cable and pry upwards to peel it up from the front shell.
The mic cable is secured to the front shell with some light adhesive.
If the adhesive is stubborn, don't force the cable. Lightly heat the mic cable using an iOpener or a hair dryer to soften the adhesive.

Step 103

Remove the mic cable from the front shell.
Only the front shell remains.

what will happen if the mic cable brakes?

AV GAMING -

cry‎ ‎ ‎ ‎ ‎

SuperDoggo -

Not sure why,but now only the volume,power ,and touch screen works.

Note: so far already reimaged and downloaded newest drivers. Still doesn’t work so far.

With that being said i will update a fix if i find one.

James Lye -

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Steam Deck answers community for help.

Author

Carsten Frauenheim

Member since: 10/03/20

110978 Reputation

16 comments

maybe I don’t need an Atomic Purple replacement shell…

Jon -

Hahaha. Same

Rob -

Same, wouldn't have minded a sweet water dipped or translucent outer shell. Bring back that mad catz/third party aesthetic.

Ichi Yamamoto -

I wanted to replace my old shell with a new one cause it got scratches... well, now I feel the scratches ain't that ugly.

Milo Zhao -

Seems to me like a "Welp...I guess if I ever break the screen and have to replace it, that's when I'll get an atomic purple shell...

reginalb124 - 08/06/23

I dropped mine and scratched it.... This seems to involve more than a simple screen replacement on my phones. I'll likely still order some spare parts just in case. With a baby on the way, they will likely break it and I want to be able to fix it quickly.

Fortunately, mine at the moment works. I should always close the hard case. Took it out of the car and didn't zip it up. Fell right out.

Keith Woolven -

Just fell down the stairs and the joysticks damaged the top shell, but everything still works. After reading this, I think I'm going to live with it. Sheesh.

Derrick Hilton -

Great instructions, very easy to follow and precise. I followed it for the front face replacement but if you go all the way to remove the LCD it’s probably a good idea to purchase a new LCD and replace it as well. Removal of the LCD was the most troublesome and it’s possible to cause small separations of front glass from LCD, the LCD will probably work but the separation spots might be visible once same LCD is reused. Patience and following the instructions is the key here. Thank you for excellent instructions! 10/10 !

Greg Skuza -

If you choose to replace/upgrade the screen as well, are you able to skip the step of taking the old screen off the front shell?

Daniel Johnson -

No, there are screws for the mid-plate behind the screen, see step 94

Angelica Rolves -

Will replacement speaker adhesive ever be available for purchase?

Paul Kujawa -

Shell swap would be cool for that Game Boy Color vibe...

Shell swap would mean broken Deck....

%#*@.

Jason Bourke-Velji -

For Step #73, be careful when pulling back the sticker as it may tug the display connector out of the socket.

Yaniv -

I was done at Step 18...instead of pushing that little guy up, I yanked on those cables like a moron...somehow I got that connector together again, thankfully.

Was trying to do a case swap...you know what, the old case is good enough for me :-)

Dominik Wagner -

I just realized I have a crack in the top bezel that extends into the fan exhaust area. Now I'm not nearly as bothered by it lol. If it craps out or truly breaks, I'll just get an OLED.

Jesse Dunlap -

Given that I have exactly that flaw on a secondhand one... I wonder if it's structural. Maybe send a message to steam support to see if they'll handle it?

Alan Markham -