Aberdyfi

Aberdyfi Welsh pronunciation: [abɛrˈdəvi], also known as Aberdovey/ˌæbəˈdʌviː/, is a village and community on the north side of the estuary of the River Dyfi in Gwynedd, on the west coast of Wales. The Community had a population of 878 as of the 2011 census. The electoral ward had a larger population of 1,282 and includes the community of Pennal.

Aberdyfi/Aberdovey

View of Aberdyfi from Penhelig
Aberdyfi/Aberdovey
Location within Gwynedd
Population1,282 (2011)[1]
OS grid referenceSN615965
Community
  • Aberdyfi
Principal area
Ceremonial county
CountryWales
Sovereign stateUnited Kingdom
Post townABERDYFI / ABERDOVEY
Postcode districtLL35
Dialling code01654
PoliceNorth Wales
FireNorth Wales
AmbulanceWelsh
UK Parliament
Senedd Cymru – Welsh Parliament
  • Dwyfor Meirionnydd

The village was founded around the harbour and shipbuilding industry, but is now best known as a seaside resort with a high quality beach.[2][3] The centre is on the river and seafront, around the original harbour, jetty and beach but it stretches back from the coast and up the steep hillside in the midst of typical Welsh coastal scenery of steep green hills and sheep farms. Penhelig (Welsh: Penhelyg), with its own railway station, is the eastern part of the village.

Aberdyfi is a popular tourist attraction, with many returning holidaymakers, especially from the metropolitan areas of England, such as the West Midlands, which is less than 100 miles to the east. A relatively large proportion of houses in the village are now holiday homes, resulting in high house prices. The town is located within the Snowdonia National Park. In the 2011 census, 38.5% of the population of Aberdyfi ward identified themselves as Welsh (or combined).[1]

Name
Bilingual welcome sign, using both the Welsh and anglicised spellings, on the approach to the village.

The anglicised spelling for the village and community is Aberdovey. The Welsh Aberdyfi is now widely used locally and by the Gwynedd Council[4] and the Welsh Government. Some entities continue to use the anglicisation[5] e.g. in their name and/or address[6][7][8][9][10][11] and some use the two spellings interchangeably.[12][13][14][15][16][17][18]

History
Aberdyfi, 1860
Aberdyfi from across the river.

Local tradition suggests that the Romans established a track into Aberdyfi as part of the military occupation of Wales around AD78.[19]

The strategic location in mid-Wales was the site of several conferences between north and south Wales princes in 540, 1140, and for the Council of Aberdyfi in 1216. The hill in the centre of Aberdyfi, Pen-y-Bryn, has been claimed to be the site of fortifications in the 1150s, which were soon destroyed.[19] The site of Aberdyfi Castle however is usually said to be at the motte earthworks further up the river near Glandyfi.[20]

During the Spanish Armada of 1597, a Spanish ship, the Bear of Amsterdam missed her objective at Milford Haven and ended up having entered the Dyfi estuary. She was unable to leave for 10 days because of the wind and could not be boarded as no suitable boats were available.[19] An attempt to burn her was frustrated by winds and when she did leave she ended up being captured by a waiting English fleet off the Cornish coast.[21]

In the 1700s, the village grew with the appearance of several of the inns still in current use (The Dovey Hotel, Britannia and Penhelig Arms). Copper was mined in the present Copperhill Street, and lead in Penhelig.

Aberdyfi, showing the harbour

Governance

An electoral ward of the same name stretches inland along the A494 road and includes Pennal community. The total population of the ward taken at the 2011 census was 1,282.[1]

Port and railway

In the 1800s, Aberdyfi was at its peak as a port. Major exports were slate and oak bark. Ship building was based in seven shipyards in Penhelig where 45 sailing ships were built between 1840 and 1880.[19]

The railway came to Aberdyfi in 1863 built by the Aberystwith and Welsh Coast Railway. The first train was ferried across the river, as the line to Dovey Junction and then Machynlleth was not completed until 1867. Due to public demand, this section had to use a long tunnel behind Aberdyfi, and further major earthworks and tunnels were needed along the bank of the river. This line, which became part of the Cambrian Railways, and later the Great Western Railway, is particularly scenic.[22]

A jetty was built in 1887, with railway lines connecting it with the wharf and the main line. The Aberdyfi & Waterford Steamship Company imported livestock from Ireland which were then taken further by the railway. Coal, limestone and timber were also imported.

Crowds on shore at Aberdyfi watching the regatta, circa 1885
A view of Aberdyfi from Penhelyg Rock, circa 1885

Local coastal shipping links with Liverpool were strong, with many Aberdyfi men sailing on international voyages from Liverpool. The S.S. Dora was one of the last ships trading between Aberdyfi and Liverpool and was scuttled, with no loss of life, by a German submarine in 1917.[19]

The jetty and wharf continued in commercial use for coal until 1959. After prolonged negotiations, redevelopments from 1968–1971, including rebuilding the jetty, led to their present use mainly for recreational purposes.[19] Some local fishing still occurs.

The first ever Outward Bound centre was opened in Aberdyfi in 1941.[23] Many of their activities involve the river, boats and jetty.

Lifeboat
Main article: Aberdovey Lifeboat Station

The first Aberdyfi lifeboat was bought in 1837. Run by the RNLI since 1853, it has taken part in many rescues, sometimes with loss of life of crew members. The current lifeboat, an Atlantic 75, is housed in the boathouse by the jetty and is launched using a lifeboat tractor. Currently it is averaging about 25 emergency launches each year.[24]

Worship

Chapels in Aberdyfi include the Welsh Calvinistic Methodist chapel, the English Presbyterian chapel, the Wesleyan Methodist chapel, and the Welsh Independent congregational chapel. The (Anglican) Church in Wales is St Peter's.

Transport

Road access to Aberdyfi is by the A493, with Tywyn four miles to the north and Machynlleth 11 miles to the east. Aberdyfi is on the Cambrian Coast railway line. The village of Aberdyfi has two railway stations, Aberdovey and Penhelig. Trains on the Cambrian Line are operated by Transport for Wales. The local bus service is operated by Lloyds Coaches with services to Tywyn, where a connection can be made for Dolgellau, and to Machynlleth, where connections are available to Aberystwyth.

A ferry used to operate across the River Dyfi to Ynyslas. The last ferryman was Ellis Williams.[25]

Recreation

Popular recreational activities focus on the beach and watersports, such as windsurfing, kitesurfing, fishing, crabbing, sailing, and canoeing on the estuary.[3]

  • Activities in Aberdyfi
  • Sailing from Aberdyfi beach
  • A dinghy race in the Dyfi estuary
  • Kitesurfing on the Dyfi
  • The beach on a busy Bank Holiday

The Dovey Yacht Club has a prominent position on the river front of the village. It was founded in 1949 and helped develop the popularity of the GP14 dinghy class.[26][27] It organises races for dinghies throughout the season on the estuary of the River Dyfi.

The Aberdovey Golf Club, founded in 1892, is a famous 18 hole links course located near the railway station. It is world-renowned, having been described frequently and lyrically in the press by Bernard Darwin, the famed golf writer, who was a notable member of the club. In 1895, it was the location of the first Welsh Golfing Union Championship. Current members include Ian Woosnam and Peter Baker.[28]

Located by the Aberdovey Golf Club is Aberdyfi Football club boasting one of the best football pitches in Mid-Wales. The football team won the Welsh Amateur Cup Competition in 1934.[29]

The Aberdyfi Rowing Club rows in the Dyfi Estuary and Cardigan Bay and takes part in races all round the coast of Wales and internationally. They row 24’ long Celtic longboats, with four rowers (each with one oar) and a cox. They have three of these traditional Welsh boats with fixed seats and use these for races in Wales.[30]

The Aberdovey Literary Institute, founded in 1882, is situated on the river front. The deeds of 1923 state it was established in perpetuity as "a non-sectarian, non-political place of recreation, education and social intercourse including ... reading rooms, writing rooms, library, billiard rooms, concert rooms ..."

Neuadd Dyfi is a community hall, conference centre and theatre owned by the village for village activities. It caters for a range of local organisations and events.

Cultural references

The Bells of Aberdovey
The bells of St Peter's Church can play The Bells of Aberdovey

Aberdyfi is closely linked to the legend of the submerged lost kingdom of Cantre'r Gwaelod (English: Lowland Hundred) beneath Cardigan Bay, and bells which, it is said, can be heard ringing beneath the water at the beach. The Bells of Aberdovey (Welsh: Clychau Aberdyfi) is a well-known song referring to this legend. This song first appeared in the English opera Liberty Hall in 1785, written by Charles Dibdin, and is not thought to be a traditional folk-song as Welsh words were written by John Ceiriog Hughes, during the 19th century.

The legend and the song have inspired local cultural projects involving bells.

A new chime of bells was installed in September 1936 in the tower of St Peter's Church, which overlooks Aberdyfi harbour. The ten bells, tuned in the key of A flat, were specifically designed to allow the playing of The Bells of Aberdovey and are played from a mechanical carillon inside the church.[31]

A bell installed beneath the pier rings at high tide

In 2010 an art installation was commissioned from sculptor Marcus Vergette as a homage to The Bells of Aberdovey. The work is a bronze time-and-tide bell suspended beneath Aberdyfi pier which is rung by the action of water at high tide. It was installed in July 2011 and is one of several such bells around the United Kingdom.[32][33]

Other

Bugail Aberdyfi (the Shepherd of Aberdovey) is a poem written by John Ceiriog Hughes[34] which has been set to music and recorded by several singers including Bryn Terfel.

The children's novel, Silver on the Tree, by Susan Cooper, the final book of The Dark is Rising, is largely set around Aberdyfi, with many references to local landmarks.

The novel, Megan's Game by Tony Drury, published in 2012, contains many references to Aberdyfi, surrounding areas and the legend of The Bells of Aberdovey.[35]

Notable people associated with Aberdyfi
Aberdyfi and The Dyfi valley from Ynyslas Sand Dunes, April 2011

References
  1. "Neighbourhood statistics". Office for National Statistics. Retrieved 14 May 2015.
  2. "Aberdyfi.org". Retrieved 23 April 2011.
  3. "Aberdyfi.com". Retrieved 23 April 2011.
  4. "Gwynedd Council supports scheme that will deliver affordable homes in Aberdyfi". Gwynedd Council. Retrieved 24 June 2019.
  5. "Aberdyfi". Ordnance Survey. Retrieved 25 June 2019.
  6. "Aberdovey Post Office". Post Office. Retrieved 19 August 2019.
  7. "Aberdovey (AVY) details". National Rail. Retrieved 25 June 2019.
  8. "Aberdovey Lifeboat Station". Royal National Lifeboat Institution. Retrieved 24 June 2019.
  9. "Contact Us/Contact Details". Aberdovey Golf Club. Retrieved 24 June 2019.
  10. "The Dovey Inn". S.A. Brain & Co Ltd. Retrieved 24 June 2019.
  11. "Contact Us". The Braided Rug Company. Retrieved 24 June 2019.
  12. "Gasworks site 'gifted' to Aberdyfi for wildlife". BBC News. 31 October 2014. Retrieved 24 June 2019.
  13. "Body found in sea between Aberdovey and Tywyn, say police". BBC News. 14 May 2012. Retrieved 9 September 2019.
  14. "'Dark web' drug dealer operating from an idyllic Welsh resort is jailed". The Telegraph. 24 July 2015. Retrieved 8 September 2019.
  15. "10 of the best beaches in Wales for a family day out". The Telegraph. 23 August 2017. Retrieved 8 September 2019.
  16. "This Welsh chalet with one of the best views in the UK is up for sale". Wales Online. 1 April 2016. Retrieved 8 September 2019.
  17. "The £1.7m dream home that comes with its very own island". Wales Online. 5 September 2016. Retrieved 8 September 2019.
  18. "Aberdyfi/Aberdovey Beach". VisitWales. Retrieved 9 September 2019.
  19. Lewis, Hugh (1997). Aberdyfi: a chronicle through the centuries. Aberdyfi: Author.
  20. Northall, John. "Aberdyfi Castle". Castles of Wales. Retrieved 11 August 2019.
  21. Pickering, W (1932). Archaeologia Cambrensis, Volume 87. Cambrian Archaeological Association. p. 392.
  22. Christiansen, Rex & Miller, R.W. The Cambrian Railways, Vol. 1 David & Charles (1967)
  23. Outward Bound International. "Archived copy". Archived from the original on 26 June 2014. Retrieved 13 June 2014.CS1 maint: archived copy as title (link). Retrieved 10 October 2014.
  24. "Aberdovey Lifeboat". Archived from the original on 3 September 2011. Retrieved 24 April 2011.
  25. "The Williams Family Tree". Retrieved 24 April 2011.
  26. "Dovey Yacht Club". Archived from the original on 21 May 2011. Retrieved 24 April 2011.
  27. Stuart Fisher (5 January 2012). Rivers of Britain: Estuaries, Tideways, Havens, Lochs, Firths and Kyles. Bloomsbury Publishing. pp. 47–. ISBN 978-1-4081-5931-6.
  28. "Aberdovey Golf Club". Archived from the original on 30 April 2011. Retrieved 24 April 2011.
  29. "FAW Welsh Trophy - over 100 years of history". Retrieved 23 April 2011.
  30. "Aberdyfi Rowing Club". Retrieved 24 April 2011.
  31. "About us". St Peter's Church website. Archived from the original on 26 April 2012. Retrieved 3 January 2012.
  32. "New bell rings as the tide rises in Aberdyfi, Gwynedd". BBC News. 12 July 2011. Retrieved 3 January 2012.
  33. "Time and Tide Bell". Marcus Vergette official website. Archived from the original on 7 April 2014. Retrieved 3 January 2012.
  34. "The Project Gutenberg Etext of Ceiriog, by John Ceiriog Hughes" (PDF). Retrieved 3 July 2020.
  35. "City veteran wields pen against dodgy brokers". The Telegraph. 17 May 2012. Retrieved 28 October 2014.
  36. "Scientist's climate change honour". BBC. 16 January 2006. Retrieved 28 October 2014.
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