Mixed climbing

Mixed climbing is a combination of ice climbing and rock climbing generally using ice climbing equipment such as crampons and ice tools.[1][2] Mixed climbing has inspired its own specialized gear such as boots which are similar to climbing shoes but feature built-in crampons. Dry-tooling is mixed climbing's most specialized skill and has since evolved into a "sport" unto itself.

Terrain

The terrain that is climbed on is diverse and consists of rock, turf, snow, and ice in varying amounts. Such terrain is typically encountered in the winter season or on high icy mountains.

Grading

Grading of mixed terrain climbs roughly follows the WI rating system with respect to its physical and technical demands. The scale typically starts at M4 and subgrades of "-" and "+" are commonly used, although the distinctions are often subjective. The following table makes a comparison with the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) and the WI system. Comparing these is rough and only gives an idea of the relative difficulty; the reason different systems exist in the first place is because it's difficult to compare grades between climbing media.

Rating	YDS	WI	Notes[3]
M4	5.8	WI4	Slabby to vertical, some technical dry-tooling.
M5	5.9	WI5	Some sustained vertical dry tooling.
M6	5.10	WI6	Vertical to overhanging with difficult dry tooling.
M7	5.11	WI7	Overhanging, powerful and technical drytooling, less than 10 metres (33 ft) of "hard" climbing.
M8	5.11+		Some nearly horizontal overhangs requiring very powerful and technical dry tooling; bouldery or longer cruxes than M7.
M9	5.12-		Either continuously vertical or slightly overhanging with marginal or technical holds, or a juggy roof of 2 to 3 body lengths.
M10	5.12		At least 10 meters of horizontal rock or 30 meters of overhanging dry tooling with powerful moves and no rests.
M11	5.12+		A ropelength of overhanging gymnastic climbing, or up to 15 meters of roof.
M12	5.13-		M11 with bouldery, dynamic moves and tenuous technical holds.

Techniques

Climbers participating in mixed climbing use techniques from ice climbing and rock climbing. The nature of the mixed terrain and the demands that it places on climbers however have also led to the development of specialist skills, most notably dry tooling.

Equipment

A climber chooses their equipment based on the exact conditions and terrain that will be encountered as well as their climbing style and personal preferences. Mixed terrain climbing equipment typically includes both rock and ice climbing equipment. Specialist equipment has also been developed.

References

1. Gadd, Will; Roger Chayer (November 2003). Ice & Mixed Climbing: Modern Technique (First ed.). Mountaineers Books. ISBN 0-89886-769-X.
2. Cox, Steven M.; Kris Fulsaas, eds. (September 2003). Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills (7 ed.). Seattle: The Mountaineers. ISBN 0-89886-828-9.
3. "Climbing Grades - Alpinist.com". www.alpinist.com. Retrieved 2020-02-20.