Aill na Cronain

Aill na Cronain (Irish: Aill na Crónáin; Cronan's cliff) is an inland west-facing limestone crag in The Burren in County Clare, Ireland. It is popular with novice rock climbers due to the number of short single-pitch 10–20 metre rock climbing routes in the S to HS rock climbing grades.[1] It is beside the Aillwee Caves.

Aill na Cronain
Irish: Aill na Crónáin; Cronan's cliff
"Skull Buttress" in the middle of Aill na Cronain showing the flat Skull Slab VDiff–climb in centre
Location of Aill na Cronain in Ireland
Location
Nearest city3.5 km south of Ballyvaughan
RangeThe Burren
Coordinates53°05′47″N 9°08′20″W
Climbing type
Height25 metres at highest point
(most climbs 10–15 metres)
PitchesSingle pitch
Ratings
  • mostly D to HS
  • little above HVS
Rock typeLimestone
Quantity of rock
  • +70 routes online database
  • 50 routes 2008 guidebook
Development
  • No Facilities
  • No Fresh Water
Cliff aspectWest
Elevationcirca 150 metres above sea level
OwnershipPrivate property
Camping
Classic climbs
  • Skull Slab (VD),
  • Raven (E3 6a),
  • Mayday (VS),
  • Demon Dim (HVS),
  • Poetic Majesty (VS),
WebsiteClimbing.ie Aill na Cronain

Rock climbing

The crag is accessed by a 10–minute walk northwards from the upper car-park of the Ailwee Cave attraction (see map below).[2] The crag is on private property but rock climbing has been allowed since the early 1970s, with the earliest recorded rock climbing routes dating from circa 1971.[2] The UKClimbing online logbook notes that: "Skull slab is probably one of the best VDiffs you'll find in the country".[1] Aill na Cronain is also listed in Ireland's Adventure Bucket List, which says that: "If you are just starting out [rock climbing], one of the best spots to visit is Aill na Cronain, just beside the Ailwee Cave".[3]

In terms of layout, the centre of Aill na Cronain is the "Skull Buttress" which has a distinctive skull–appearance when viewed from a distance. Its "nose" contains the flat Skull Slab VD–grade climb. The "East Side" face, and "Far East Side" face, lie to the north of Skull Buttress. The "Butterfly" face, and the "Small Wall" face lie to its south.[2] While most routes are between S and HS, more challenging routes have been put up on the "Skull Buttress" such as Raven (E3 6a), Monkey Business (E2 5c), and Sunbane (E1 5c).[2]

Aill na Cronain is in the County Clare townland of Ballycahill.[4] Just over 23 kilometers to the southwest of Aill na Cronain is the more advanced rock climbing limestone sea–cliff called Ailladie, which contains some of Ireland's most advanced rock climbs.

The layout of popular novice rock climbing venue, Aill Na Cronain, in The Burren, County Clare, Ireland

Climbing bibliography
  • Owens, Peter (2008). Climbs in the Burren and Aran Islands. Mountaineering Ireland. ISBN 0-902940-21-X.
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See also
  • Ailladie, major rock climbing limestone sea-cliff in County Clare
  • Ballyryan, inland rock climbing limestone crag in County Clare, right beside Ailladie
  • Fair Head, major rock climbing dolerite mountain crag in County Antrim
  • Dalkey Quarry, major rock climbing granite quarry in Dublin

References
  1. "UKC Log: Aill na Cronain". UKClimbing Log. Although short, the routes are generally on solid rock with good gear placements. Skull slab is probably one of the best v diffs you'll find in the country. Looking at the crag from the road, the far left side has three short recorded climbs. The most prominent feature is Skull Buttress where the best climbing is to be found. The routes have been originally named based on features on the rock likened to the parts of a skull and hence the slightly morbid names!
  2. "Aill na Cronain". Irish Climbing Wiki. 2018. This crag lies about 400m north of Ailwee Cave and is clearly visible from the upper car park. A 10–minute level walk brings one to the top of the cliff and the descent gully can be located by continuing towards the north end. The Small Wall area is halfway across from the car-park.
  3. Helen Fairbairn (13 July 2018). Ireland's Adventure Bucket List. Collins Press. ISBN 978-1848893436.
  4. "Ballycahill Townland, Co. Clare". Townland.ie. 2018.
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