iPad Pro 12.9" 5th Gen Battery Replacement

Written By: Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

Comments: 1

iPad Pro 12.9" 5th Gen Battery Replacement

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

2 - 3 hours

Introduction

Use this guide to replace the battery in your iPad Pro 12.9" 5th Gen.

This guide is written with an A2379 (Wi-Fi and LTE with mmWave) model iPad Pro. If you have the Wi‑Fi only model, use this guide as a general reference, but you may need to perform extra disassembly not covered in this guide.

Some photos show the battery connector blocked with two card strips. While this is an optional method, it's more reliable to fully discharge the battery. Ignore this visual discrepancy as you work through the guide.

Tools

Parts

iPad Pro 12.9" (2018/2020) Adhesive Strips

Step 1

Allow your iPad's battery to drain below 25% before starting this repair. A charged battery may catch fire if damaged during the repair.
If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
Unplug any cables and fully shut down your iPad.

Step 2

Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the screen for two minutes.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the iPad—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

Step 3

The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
Place an object under your iPad so it rests level between the suction cups.
Position the suction cups near the middle of the right edge—one on the top, and one on the bottom.
Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and firmly press down on the top cup to apply suction.
If you find that the surface of your iPad is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, use tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 4

Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

Step 5

Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
If your screen isn't getting hot enough, you can use a hair dryer to heat along the right edge of the iPad.
For complete instructions on how to use a hair dryer, check out this guide.
Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.
Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next step.

Step 6

If your screen is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken display.
Apply a suction handle to the screen as close to the center of the right edge as possible.
Pull up on the suction handle with a strong, steady force to create a small gap between the frame and screen.
The large screen is very fragile. Only create a gap big enough to insert an opening pick.
If you're having trouble making a gap, reapply a heated iOpener to the right edge for two minutes.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.
Don't insert the pick more than 5 mm to avoid damaging the screen.

Step 7

There are two 2 cm-long magnets along the right edge of the screen. Don't insert your opening pick more than 2 mm to avoid damaging the screen in these locations:
The first magnet begins about 3 cm from the top of the iPad.
The second magnet begins about 3 cm from the bottom of the iPad.
Everywhere else, don't insert your opening pick more than 5 mm.

Step 8

Slide your opening pick along the right edge of the screen to separate the adhesive.
Angle your pick downward and insert up to a 2 mm depth near the magnet cutouts and 5 mm everywhere else.
Leave the pick inserted in the bottom right corner before continuing.

Step 9

Slide your opening pick around the bottom right corner of the screen to separate the adhesive.
Leave your pick in the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 10

Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the screen for two minutes.

Step 11

Insert a second opening pick under the bottom right corner of the screen.
Don't insert your opening pick more than 5 mm.
Slide your pick to the bottom left corner to separate the bottom adhesive.

Step 12

Rotate your opening pick around the bottom left corner of the screen.
Leave your pick in the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 13

Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the screen for two minutes.

Step 14

There are four 2 cm-long cutouts along the left edge of the screen where the adhesive is very thin. Don’t insert your opening pick more than 2 mm in these locations to avoid damaging the display:
The upper cutouts begin at 4 cm and 6 cm from the top of the frame.
The bottom cutouts begin at 4 cm and 6 cm from the bottom of the frame.
Everywhere else, don't insert your opening pick more than 5 mm.

Step 15

Insert a third opening pick under the bottom left corner of the screen.
Slide your pick to the top left corner to slice the left adhesive, making sure to avoid the cutouts shown in the previous step.
Leave the pick inserted in the top left corner before continuing.

Step 16

Slide your opening pick around the top left corner of the screen.
Leave your pick in the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 17

Apply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the screen for two minutes.

Step 18

While the top edge adhesive softens, note the following:
There are two ambient light sensors near the corners. Don't insert your pick more than 1 mm here.
The front-facing camera and additional sensors are in the center of the top edge. Don't insert your pick here—there is less than 1 mm of adhesive and you may damage the components.
For everywhere else, don't insert your pick more than 5 mm to avoid damaging the screen.

Step 19

Slide your opening pick toward the top right edge, stopping just before the camera assembly.
If you slide any farther, you risk damaging the camera's sensors.
Leave your pick inserted before continuing.

Step 20

Insert a new opening pick on the other side of the camera assembly, about 4 cm from the previous pick.
Slide your pick to the top right corner to slice the remaining adhesive.

Step 21

Don't fully remove the screen, as it's attached by several cables.
Grab two opposing corners of the screen and lift up to separate it from the frame.
If the screen feels stuck, slide your opening picks around the perimeter to separate any remaining adhesive. Pay attention to sensitive areas shown in previous steps.
Shift the screen towards the bottom right corner of the frame until the ribbon cable near the top edge is uncovered.

Step 22

Throughout this guide, keep track of each screw and reinstall it exactly where it came from.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the upper cable shield:
One 1.8 mm-long screw
One 1.4 mm-long screw
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPad and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your iPad back down before you continue working.

Step 23

Use tweezers or your fingers to grab and remove the upper cable shield.

Step 24

Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the upper sensors press connector.
To re-attach press connectors, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Don't press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend and cause permanent damage.

Step 25

Grip the right edge of the screen and open it like a book.
Don't pull up on the screen—the screen cables are still attached.
Lay the screen down over the left edge of the iPad.
Be careful not to strain the screen cables.

Step 26

The logic board cover is lightly adhered to the logic board.
Peel the cover off of the logic board to remove it.

Step 27

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 1.7 mm-long screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

Step 28

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the seven screws securing the top and bottom display brackets:
Four 1.1 mm-long screws
Two 2.0 mm-long screws
One 1.0 mm-long screw

Step 29

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the top and bottom display brackets.

Step 30

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the two bottom display cable press connectors.

Step 31

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the two top display cable press connectors.

Step 32

Remove the screen.

Step 33

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the charging port cable press connector.

Step 34

The charging port cable is lightly adhered to the logic board.
Insert an opening pick between the charging port cable and the logic board.
Slide the pick toward the charging port to separate the adhesive.

Step 35

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 1.8 mm-long screws securing the charging port.

Step 36

Use tweezers to remove the two small grounding clips next to the charging port.

Step 37

Use your fingers to pull the charging port out of its slot in the frame.
Remove the charging port.

Step 38

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws securing the front camera bracket to the logic board:
Two 1.1 mm-long screws
One 1.0 mm-long screw

Step 39

The front camera bracket is adhered to the logic board.
Heat an iOpener and apply it to the front camera bracket for two minutes.

Step 40

Insert an opening pick between the front camera bracket and the logic board.
Slide the pick toward the top of the iPad to separate the adhesive.

Step 41

Slide the front camera bracket toward the right edge of the iPad to release its metal clip.
Remove the front camera bracket.
During reassembly, make sure the metal clip is secured under the logic board before continuing.

Step 42

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the three front camera cable press connectors.

Step 43

The left-most front camera cable is lightly adhered to the frame.
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to peel the left-most cable off of the logic board.

Step 44

Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the two 2.2 mm-long screws securing the front camera.

Step 45

The front camera is strongly adhered to the frame with heat-resistant epoxy. Work slowly to avoid damaging surrounding components.
Insert a spudger underneath the front camera, between the middle and right cables.
Twist the spudger to separate the epoxy securing the front camera.
This may require significant force.
Remove the front camera.
During reassembly, use a spudger to scrape off any remaining epoxy before reinstalling the front camera.

Step 46

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the five screws securing the rear camera bracket to the frame:
Two 1.2 mm-long screws
One 2.7 mm-long screw
One 2.6 mm-long screw
One 1.8 mm-long screw

Step 47

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the rear camera bracket.

Step 48

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the wide-angle camera cable press connector.
Disconnect the bottom power button cable press connector.

Step 49

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the LiDAR sensor cable press connector.
Disconnect the ultrawide camera cable press connector.

Step 50

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the top power button cable press connector.

Step 51

Insert a spudger between the right edge of the rear camera assembly and the frame.
Pry up to separate the rear camera from the frame.
Remove the rear camera assembly.

Step 52

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the six coaxial cables near the top of the iPad by prying up as close to their connectors as possible.
During reassembly, these can be tricky to reconnect. One at a time, hold each connector in place over its socket and press down with the flat end of a spudger. The connector should snap into place.

Step 53

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the two top microphone press connectors.

Step 54

Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the four top speaker connectors.
Insert the spudger under the middle of the connectors. Alternatively, you can pry under the cables.

Step 55

Three of the speaker cables are lightly adhered to the logic board.
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to peel the three speaker cables off of the logic board.
Grip the cables by the black foam tubes, not the wires themselves.

Step 56

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the 5G mmWave antenna press connector.

Step 57

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the top right microphone press connector.

Step 58

Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the four bottom speaker connectors.

Step 59

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the Smart Connector press connector.

Step 60

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the SIM card reader press connector.

Step 61

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the top antenna press connector.

Step 62

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the Wi-Fi antenna coaxial cable by prying up as close to its connector as possible.

Step 63

Peel the Wi-Fi cable towards the right edge of the iPad to separate it from the logic board.

Step 64

Begin to peel the antenna cable along the right edge of the logic board.

Step 65

Continue peeling the antenna cable until it completely separates from the right edge of the logic board.

Step 66

Peel the 5G mmWave cable toward the right edge of the iPad to separate it from the logic board.

Step 67

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the logic board brackets:
One 1.0 mm-long screw
One 1.1 mm-long screw

Step 68

Slide the right bracket away from the logic board to release its metal locking clip.
Remove the right bracket.
During reassembly, make sure the metal clips are secured under the logic board before continuing.

Step 69

Slide the left bracket away from the logic board to release its metal locking clip.
Remove the left bracket.
During reassembly, make sure the metal clips are secured under the logic board before continuing.

Step 70

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the bottom left antenna press connector.

Step 71

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the left microphone and Apple Pencil charger cable press connectors.

Step 72

Apply high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol to the right edge of the logic board.
Tilt the right edge of the iPad upward to allow the isopropyl alcohol to work its way underneath the logic board.
Hold for one minute to allow the isopropyl alcohol to weaken the adhesive.

Step 73

Slide an opening pick under the bottom edge of the logic board, near the charging port, to separate the bottom adhesive.
Leave the opening pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 74

Insert an opening pick under the right edge of the logic board.
Slide the opening pick toward the battery connector to separate the right adhesive.
Leave the opening pick inserted next to the battery connector to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 75

Insert a third opening pick under the logic board on the other side of the battery connector.
Slide the opening pick toward the top of the iPad to separate the remaining right adhesive.
Leave the opening pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 76

Insert an opening pick under the left edge of the logic board.
Slide the opening pick along the left edge to separate its adhesive.
Leave the opening pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 77

Slide a fifth opening pick under the top edge of the logic board, near the front camera, to separate the top adhesive.
Leave the opening pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 78

The logic board has a small "branch" that runs along the top right battery cell.
Apply high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol to the branch of the logic board.

Step 79

Slide the top right opening pick along the top branch of the logic board to separate the remaining adhesive.
At this point, the logic board should be fully separated from the frame. If the logic board still feels stuck, slide an opening pick around its perimeter to slice any remaining adhesive.

Step 80

Remove the logic board.
During reassembly, make sure all of the connectors are above the logic board before securing it back into the fame.

Step 81

Before you continue, note the following:
There are nine stretch-release adhesive pull tabs that have to be removed to separate the adhesive underneath the battery.
The corners of some of the battery cells have a small amount of extra adhesive that needs to be separated.
The remainder of the adhesive is located between the battery cells, underneath their battery boards.

Step 82

The next two steps will demonstrate how to remove the nine stretch-release adhesives.
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to separate the pull tab from the battery enough so you can grab it with your fingers.
Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with your tool—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.

Step 83

Pull the strip out slowly and steadily at a low angle. Give it plenty of time to stretch and un-stick from under the battery.
If the adhesive strip breaks off, try to retrieve it using your fingers or blunt tweezers, and continue pulling—but do not pry under the battery.
Repeat the process on all nine stretch-release adhesive strips.
If you removed all of the stretch-release adhesive, skip to this step. Otherwise, follow the next two steps for each battery cell with remaining adhesive.

Step 84

The next two steps will demonstrate how to separate the stretch-release adhesive if one of the tabs breaks.
Apply high-strength (>90%) isopropyl alcohol along the edge of the battery.
Tilt the iPad to allow the isopropyl alcohol to work its way underneath the battery.

Step 85

Insert a plastic card into the gap between the battery and the frame.
Use the plastic card to slice the adhesive underneath the battery.
Repeat for each battery cell with remaining stretch-release adhesive.

Step 86

The next three steps will demonstrate how to remove the extra battery adhesive.
Insert a plastic card into the gap between the top right battery cell and the frame.
Use the plastic card to slice the adhesive underneath the battery.

Step 87

Insert a plastic card into the gap between the top left battery cell and the frame.
Use the plastic card to slice the adhesive underneath the battery.

Step 88

Insert a plastic card into the gap between the bottom left battery cell and the frame.
Use the plastic card to slice the adhesive underneath the battery.

Step 89

The next three steps will demonstrate how to remove the battery board adhesive.
Apply high-strength (>90%) isopropyl alcohol to the battery boards between the cells.

Step 90

Be very careful with this step, as it's easy to separate the battery from its board. Note the two battery layers to avoid damaging the boards:
Don't slice between the battery and the board.
Slice between the board and the frame.
Insert an opening pick under the middle of the two battery cells to create an initial gap.

Step 91

Insert the corner of a plastic card into the gap you just created.
Slide the plastic card under the battery board to separate its adhesive.
Repeat the slicing procedure for the other battery board.
At this point, the battery should be separated from the frame. If there's still resistance around the edges, slide an opening pick around the perimeter of the battery.

Step 92

Remove the battery.
During reassembly, remove the old adhesive with tweezers and isopropyl alcohol and apply stretch-release adhesive strips, double sided adhesive tape, or pre-cut adhesive to secure the new battery.
If there are any drops of isopropyl alcohol remaining, use a lint-free cloth to wipe them away or allow the iPad to air dry before installing a new battery.
Don't reuse the battery after it has been removed, as doing so is a potential safety hazard.