iPad Pro 12.9" 4th Gen Battery Replacement

Written By: Clay Eickemeyer

Comments: 4

iPad Pro 12.9" 4th Gen Battery Replacement

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

2 - 4 hours

Introduction

Follow this guide to replace the battery in your iPad Pro 12.9" 4th generation.

This guide is written with an A2229 (Wi-Fi only) model iPad Pro. If you have the cellular model, use this guide as a general reference, but you may need to perform extra disassembly not covered in this guide.

Some photos show the battery connector blocked with two card strips. While this is an optional method, it's more reliable to fully discharge the battery. Ignore this visual discrepancy as you work through the guide.

If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

Tools

Parts

iPad Pro 12.9" (2018/2020) Adhesive Strips

Step 1

Allow your iPad's battery to fully drain before starting this repair. A charged battery may catch fire if damaged during the repair.
Unplug any cables and fully shut down your iPad.

Step 2

Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the screen for two minutes.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the iPad—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

Step 3

The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
Place an object under your iPad so it rests level between the suction cups.
Position the suction cups near the middle of the right edge—one on the top, and one on the bottom.
Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and firmly press down on the top cup to apply suction.
If you find that the surface of your iPad is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, use tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 4

Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

Step 5

Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
If your screen isn't getting hot enough, you can use a hair dryer to heat along the right edge of the iPad.
For complete instructions on how to use a hair dryer, check out this guide.
Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.
Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next step.

Step 6

If your screen is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.
Apply a suction handle to the screen as close to the center of the right edge as possible.
Pull up on the suction handle with a strong, steady force to create a small gap between the frame and screen.
The large screen is very fragile. Only create a gap big enough to insert an opening pick.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.
Don't insert the pick more than 5 mm to avoid damaging the screen.

Step 7

Along the frame's right edge, there are two cutouts for the screen magnets where the adhesive is very thin. As you slice along this edge in the next step, don't insert your opening pick deeper than 2 mm in these locations:
One magnet begins 2 cm from the top edge and is 2.5 cm long.
The second magnet begins 3 cm from the bottom edge and is 2.5 cm long.

Step 8

Slide your opening pick back and forth along the right edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.
Angle your pick downward and insert it no more than 2 mm near the magnet cutouts and 5 mm everywhere else.

Step 9

Rotate your opening pick around the bottom right corner of the screen.
Leave your pick in the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 10

Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the screen for two minutes.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the iPad—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

Step 11

Insert a second opening pick in the bottom right corner of the screen.
Don't insert your opening pick more than 5 mm.
Slide your pick to the bottom left corner to slice the bottom edge adhesive.

Step 12

Rotate your opening pick around the bottom left corner of the screen.
Leave your pick in the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 13

Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the screen for two minutes.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the iPad—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

Step 14

Along the left edge of the screen, there are three cutouts for cables where the adhesive is very thin. As you slice along this edge in the next step, don't insert your opening pick deeper than 2 mm in these locations:
The upper cutout begins 4 cm from the top edge and is 2.5 cm long.
The middle cutout is exactly in the middle of the frame and is 2.5 cm long.
The lower cutout begins 4 cm from the bottom edge and is 2.5 cm long.
Everywhere else, don't insert your opening pick more than 5 mm.

Step 15

Insert a third opening pick in the bottom left corner of the screen.
Slide your pick to the top left corner to slice the left edge adhesive.

Step 16

Rotate your opening pick around the top left corner of the screen.
Leave your pick in the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 17

Apply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the screen for two minutes.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the iPad—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

Step 18

While the top edge adhesive softens, note the following:
There are two ambient light sensors near the corners. Only insert the very tip of your pick here to avoid damaging them.
There are three strips of heat dispersion tape. Angle your pick upward as you slice here.
The front-facing camera assembly is in the center of the top edge. Don't insert your pick here to avoid damaging them.
Everywhere else, don't insert your pick deeper than 5 mm to avoid damaging the screen.

Step 19

Slide your opening pick 9 cm toward the center of the top edge to slice the adhesive, paying attention to the spots mentioned in the previous step.
If you slice farther than 9 cm, you will reach the front camera assembly and risk damaging its components.
Leave your pick inserted. You will use another pick to slice the remaining adhesive.

Step 20

Insert a fourth opening pick to the right of the front camera assembly, 4 cm from the previous opening pick and 9 cm from the right edge of the screen.
Slide your pick to the top right corner to slice the remaining adhesive.

Step 21

Grab two opposing corners of the screen and gently shift it around to separate it from the frame.
Don't fully remove the screen yet, as it's still attached by several cables.
If the screen feels stuck, slide your opening picks around the perimeter to separate any remaining adhesive. Pay attention to sensitive components mentioned in the previous steps.
Shift the screen towards the bottom right corner of the frame until the ribbon cable near the top edge is uncovered.

Step 22

Throughout this guide, keep track of each screw and reinstall it exactly where it came from.
Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the upper cable shield:
One 1.8 mm-long screw
One 2.0 mm-long screw
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPad and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your iPad back down before you continue working.

Step 23

Use tweezers or your fingers to grab and remove the upper cable shield.
During reassembly, orient the shield so the notch faces up and to the right.

Step 24

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the upper sensors press connector.
To re-attach press connectors, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Don't press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend and cause permanent damage.

Step 25

Grip the right edge of the screen and fold it open like a book.
Don't pull on the screen—the ribbon cables near the bottom are still attached.
Lay the screen down over the left edge of the iPad.

Step 26

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the five screws securing the lower cable shield:
Four 1.1 mm screws
One 2.0 mm screw

Step 27

Use tweezers or your fingers to grab and remove the lower cable shield.

Step 28

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the 1.7 mm screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

Step 29

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the upper two display press connectors from the logic board.

What are these cards that got added? And what purpose do they serve?

D Sully -

In the past, we recommended blocking the battery connections with pieces of cards, but since revised our instructions to skip this. The pictures still show the cards in place, though. For your repair, you don't need to worry about them!

Clay Eickemeyer -

Step 30

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the lower two display press connectors from the logic board.

Step 31

Grab and remove the screen from the frame.

Step 32

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the USB-C port press connector from the logic board.

Step 33

Apply a heated iOpener to the USB-C port for two minutes.

Step 34

Slide an opening pick under the USB-C port cable to separate it from the logic board.

Step 35

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 1.6 mm-long screws securing the USB-C port.

Step 36

Grab and remove the USB-C port from its recess in the frame.
Use caution not to lose the grounding contacts on either side of the USB-C recess.
During reassembly, install the USB-C port underneath the grounding contacts.

Step 37

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the four screws securing the upper cable shield:
Three 1.1 mm screws
One 2.0 mm screw

Step 38

Use tweezers or your fingers to grab and remove the upper cable shield.

Step 39

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the three press connectors for the IR dot-projector, front camera, and Face ID camera.

Step 40

Use blunt nose tweezers to grab and peel the left and middle front camera assembly cables from the logic board.

Step 41

Use your T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the two 2.2 mm screws securing the front camera assembly bracket.

Step 42

Use the flat end of your spudger to pry the front camera assembly bracket from its recess.
The bracket is secured by heat-resistant epoxy which requires significant force to weaken. Work slowly and avoid prying against the surrounding components.

Step 43

Use tweezers or your fingers to grab and remove the front camera assembly bracket from its recess.
Use a spudger to scrape and remove any residual epoxy before reinstalling the bracket.

Step 44

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the six screws securing the rear camera shield:
Three 1.2 mm screws
One 2.8 mm screw
One 2.6 mm screw
One 1.8 mm screw

Step 45

Use tweezers or your fingers to grab and remove the rear camera shield.
During reassembly, insert the tab on the left of the shield first.

Step 46

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect both of the power button's press connectors.

Step 47

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 2.3 mm screws securing the power button assembly.

Step 48

Insert the point of your spudger between the left edge of the power button assembly and the frame.
Pry the assembly up from its recess in the frame.
Grab and remove the power button assembly.
Use a spudger to scrape and remove any residual epoxy before reinstalling the assembly.

Step 49

Push the power button through its recess from the outside of the frame.
Remove the power button.

Step 50

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the wide-angle camera from the logic board.

Step 51

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the LiDAR sensor and ultrawide camera from the logic board.

Step 52

Insert the point of your spudger between the top right corner of the rear cameras and the frame.
Pry the cameras up until you can grab them with tweezers or your fingers.
Remove the rear cameras.

Step 53

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 1.9 mm screws securing the Smart Connector cover.

Step 54

Use tweezers or your fingers to grab and remove the Smart Connector cover.

Step 55

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the Smart Connector from the bottom of the logic board.

Step 56

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the 2.0 mm screw securing the lower left speaker cable shield.

Step 57

Remove the lower left speaker cable shield.

Step 58

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the lower speaker press connectors.
Avoid prying against the sides of the connectors. The sockets on the logic board are delicate and may bend if pried against.
Disconnect all four connectors for the lower speakers.

Step 59

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect all four upper speaker press connectors.
Avoid prying against the sides of the connectors. The sockets on the logic board are delicate and may bend if pried against.

Step 60

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the upper antenna cable from the right edge of the logic board.
Pry on only the metal head of the connector. Avoid lifting the cable itself as much as possible.

Step 61

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the lower antenna cable from the left edge of the logic board.
Pry on only the metal head of the connector. Avoid lifting the cable itself as much as possible.

Step 62

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the remaining two antenna cables from the left edge of the logic board.
Pry on only the metal head of the connector. Avoid lifting the cable itself as much as possible.

Step 63

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the upper sensor press connector from the logic board.

Step 64

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the rear sensor press connector from the right arm of the logic board.

Step 65

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the volume press connector from the right arm of the logic board.

Step 66

Apply a heated iOpener to the upper antenna cable and right arm of the logic board for two minutes.

Step 67

Use blunt nose tweezers or your fingernail to peel the tape securing the upper antenna cable to the right arm of the logic board.
Don't try to fully remove the cable—one more piece of tape secures it to the logic board.
If the tape feels stuck, pull the body of the cable with your fingers as you peel the tape.

Step 68

Peel the second strip of tape securing the upper antenna cable to the logic board near the rear camera cutouts.
Reposition the cable away from the logic board.
Don't twist or rotate the antenna cable—it's still connected to the antenna.

Step 69

Apply a heated iOpener to the lower antenna cable, located along the left edge of the logic board, for two minutes.

Step 70

Grab the lower antenna cable, just below its metal connector head.
Peel the cable from the left edge of the logic board.

Step 71

Peel the lower antenna cable from the logic board near the battery connector.

Step 72

Apply a heated iOpener to the logic board cover for two minutes.

Step 73

Use your fingers to grab a corner of the logic board cover.
Peel and remove the cover from the logic board.
Work slowly to avoid tearing the cover.
The cover has many layers. Make sure the copper tape doesn't separate from the foam layer.

Step 74

Use the flat end of your spudger to slide the bottom right press connector bracket away from the logic board.
Use blunt nose tweezers or your fingers to remove the bracket.
During reassembly, orient the bracket so the outward-bent wings face the battery.

Step 75

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the microphone and Apple Pencil charger press connectors.

Step 76

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 1.8 mm screws securing the logic board.

Step 77

Apply several drops of highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) to the bottom and right edges of the logic board.
Elevate the right edge of the iPad to allow the isopropyl alcohol to flow under the logic board.
Wait one minute for the isopropyl alcohol to penetrate.

Step 78

Apply isopropyl alcohol to the right arm and left edge of the logic board.
Elevate the left edge of the iPad to allow the isopropyl alcohol to flow under the logic board.
Wait one minute for the isopropyl alcohol to penetrate.

Step 79

Insert an opening pick between the bottom edge of the logic board and the Smart Connector.

Step 80

Remove the card strips blocking the battery connector.
Gently insert the tip of an opening pick between the logic board and the battery connector.
Don't pry on the battery connector or logic board, as the spring connectors are easily damaged.
Leave this pick inserted until the logic board is completely removed.

Step 81

Use the first opening pick to pry up the left edge of the logic board.
Don't forcefully lever against the battery—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.
If the logic board feels stuck, apply more isopropyl alcohol.

Step 82

Use your opening pick to pry up the right arm of the logic board.
This arm of the logic board is thin and fragile. Be careful not to bend it.

Step 83

Use your opening pick to pry up the right edge of the logic board.
Don't forcefully lever against the battery—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.
If the logic board feels stuck, apply more isopropyl alcohol.

Step 84

Grab and remove the logic board from the frame.
Be careful not to reinstall the logic board on top of any cables or connectors.
During reassembly, apply double-sided tape such as Tesa tape to secure the logic board if the existing adhesive isn't sufficient.

Step 85

There are twelve stretch-release adhesive pull tabs securing the batteries to the frame.
The remaining adhesive secures the battery boards to the bottom of the frame, and has no stretch-release tabs.

Step 86

Use blunt nose tweezers or your fingers to peel each stretch-release pull tab away from the battery.
Slowly pull the strips straight away from the battery, keeping a low angle to the frame.
Give the strips plenty of time to stretch. If a strip breaks off, try to retrieve it and continue pulling.
If you removed all 12 stretch-release adhesive strips, skip down three steps.
If any strips broke off, follow the next two steps for an alternative method to remove the battery.

Step 87

This step shows how to soften any stretch-release adhesives that broke off in the previous step.
Apply several drops of highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) to the inside edges of the batteries near any broken strips of stretch-release adhesive.
Elevate each edge of the iPad to allow the isopropyl alcohol to flow under the batteries.
Wait one minute for the isopropyl alcohol to penetrate.

Step 88

Slide a plastic card under the left battery near any broken strips of stretch-release adhesive.
Slide the plastic card along the length of the battery to separate any remaining adhesive. Don't slide your card underneath the battery boards.
Don't puncture or bend the battery. If it feels stuck, apply more isopropyl alcohol or apply a heated iOpener to the back of the frame.
Repeat this step for the right battery.

Step 89

Elevate the top edge of the iPad and raise the left battery to allow access underneath the battery board.
Don't raise the battery more than 45 degrees.
Apply a few drops of isopropyl alcohol to the battery board.
Repeat this step for the right battery.

Step 90

Lay your iPad flat and slide your plastic card at a slight angle under the outer edge of the left battery board.
Straighten the plastic card and fully insert it under the battery board to slice the adhesive.
Repeat this step for the right battery.

Step 91

Grab both halves of the battery by the upper corners and remove them from the frame.
Be careful not to twist or pull the cable connecting the halves of the battery.
Clean any remaining adhesive with a few drops of isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth.
Don't reuse your old battery. A damaged or deformed battery is a safety hazard.
During reassembly, apply double-sided tape such as Tesa tape under the new battery.

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement battery to the original one—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new battery before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad Pro 12.9" 4th Gen Answers community for help.

Author

Clay Eickemeyer

Member since: 19/09/22

65190 Reputation

2 comments

Is there a way to test the battery with a multimeter before removing all the components?

(Mine is unresponsive and I’m trying to trouble shoot components)

D Sully -

Hey D Sully,

Apple definitely hid a lot of the exposed contacts in this iPad. To reach the contacts on the battery connector, you need to get underneath the connector on the logic board.

There could still be ways to troubleshoot your iPad without opening it. If you haven't already, try force restarting it, plugging it into power for over a minute, trying a different charger, etc. If you do opt to open it, check the screen connectors, as well.

If the probes on your multimeter are sufficiently small, you might be able to remove just the lower components from the logic board (including the four screws securing it to the frame) and slightly lift it to gain access to the battery contacts. We don't recommend this as, it risks damaging the board.

Whatever routes you choose, good luck and feel free to post back here with any results!

Clay Eickemeyer -