iPad Air 5th Generation Battery Replacement

Written By: Clay Eickemeyer

Comments: 4

iPad Air 5th Generation Battery Replacement

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

1 - 3 hours

Introduction

Follow this guide to replace the battery in your iPad Air 5th Generation.

If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

Some photos in this guide are from a different model and may contain slight visual discrepancies, but they won't affect the guide procedure.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Allow your iPad's battery to fully drain before starting this repair. A charged battery may catch fire if damaged during the repair.
Unplug any cables and fully shut down your iPad.

Step 2

Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the screen for two minutes.
You can also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but extreme heat can damage the screen and/or internal battery, so proceed with care.

Step 3

While your iPad looks uniform from the outside, there are delicate components under portions of the screen. To avoid damage, follow instructions exactly as written and note the following areas as you open your iPad:
Camera module and ambient light sensors
Display cables
Screen magnets
Display edges

Step 4

The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
Place an object under your iPad so it rests level between the suction cups.
Position the suction cups near the middle of the left edge—one on the top, and one on the bottom.
Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and firmly press down on the top cup to apply suction.
If you find that the surface of your iPad is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, use tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 5

Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

Step 6

Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
If your screen isn't getting hot enough, you can use a hair dryer to heat along the left edge of the iPad.
For complete instructions on how to use a hair dryer, check out this guide.
Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.
Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next step.

Step 7

If your screen is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.
Apply a suction handle to the top left edge of the screen.
Pull up on the suction handle with firm, constant pressure to create a gap just small enough to insert an opening pick.
Only create a gap small enough to insert an opening pick. Overbending the screen will damage it.
Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.
Don't insert the opening pick more than 3 mm or you'll damage the display edges.
Leave the pick in to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 8

Don't insert the pick more than 3 mm or you'll damage the display edges.
Insert a new opening pick in the gap you just created.
Slide the opening pick along the left edge to separate the adhesive.
Leave the pick in the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 9

Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the screen for two minutes.

Step 10

Don't insert the pick more than 3 mm or you'll damage the display cables.
Insert a new opening pick in the bottom left corner.
Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge to separate the adhesive.
Leave the pick in the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 11

Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the screen for two minutes.

Step 12

The right edge of the iPad contains the screen magnets, display cables, and a digitizer cable. These components are easily damaged if an opening pick is inserted too far.
Insert a new opening pick in the bottom right corner and slide along the right edge to separate the adhesive. Make sure to note the following marked areas:
Don't insert an opening pick more than 2 mm or you'll damage the screen magnets.
The screen magnets are located directly above the SIM card slot (Wi-Fi + Cellular models only) and volume buttons.
Don't insert an opening pick more than 3 mm or you'll damage the display and digitizer cables.
Don't insert an opening pick more than 5 mm or you'll damage the display edges.
Leave the pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 13

Apply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the screen for two minutes.

Step 14

The top edge of the iPad contains the front camera module and two ambient light sensors. These components are easily damaged if an opening pick is inserted too far.
The two ambient light sensors can be hard to see and can be located using a flashlight or by placing the iPad under a bright light.
Insert a new opening pick in the top right corner and slide along the top edge to separate the adhesive. Make sure to note the following:
Don't insert an opening pick more than 5 mm or you'll damage the display edges.
Don't insert an opening pick more than 3 mm or you'll damage the ambient light sensors.
Don't insert an opening pick more than 2 mm or you'll damage the front camera module.
Leave the pick in the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 15

Don't try to remove the screen yet, as it's still attached to the frame by delicate ribbon cables.
Grip the left edge of the screen and fold it open like a book.
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPad and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your iPad back down before you continue working.

Step 16

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 1.8 mm screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Step 17

These photos show what the battery connector looks like underneath the logic board. Use these photos as a reference while you safely disconnect the battery.
Notice that the battery connector has cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you'll need to slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to disconnect the battery.

Achtung! Die kleinen Kontakte sind sehr empfindlich und brechen leicht, wenn sie seitlich gebogen werden.
Beachte das unbedingt bei Schritt 18!

Andreas Kröll -

Step 18

Cut two 6 mm wide strips from a playing card or cardstock to use as a battery blocker.
The strips should be about 4 cm long so you can easily grip them.

Step 19

Insert the card strips on each side of the battery connector until they stop.

ACHTUNG: Bewege die Streifen niemals seitwärts! Die kleineren Kontakt können dabei leicht abbrechen und dann hast Du ein größeres Problem.

Andreas Kröll -

Step 20

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws securing the display and digitizer cable brackets to the logic board:
Two 1.1 mm screws
One 1.5 mm screw

Step 21

The display cable bracket is held in place by a small latch at the bottom.
Use tweezers or your fingers to pivot the latch out from the top and remove the bracket.

Step 22

Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the digitizer cable bracket.

Step 23

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the two display cables by lifting straight up on the press connectors.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend and cause permanent damage.

Step 24

Repeat the previous step for the digitizer cable.

Step 25

Grip the left edge of the screen and lift it away.
During reassembly, before installing a screen, remove any remaining adhesive from the frame, and clean the glued areas with high-strength (>90%) isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth. This helps prep the iPad for fresh adhesive and ensures that it will bond properly.
If you plan to reinstall your existing screen, remove any remaining adhesive from the back and clean the adhered areas with isopropyl alcohol.
Follow this guide to install pre-cut adhesive strips on your iPad before sealing it up.

Step 26

Your iPad's battery is held in place by both stretch-release and regular adhesive:
Four stretch-release adhesive strips secure the battery cells to the frame. Each adhesive strip has a black pull tab along the left edge of the battery.
The remaining adhesive secures the battery board to the right side of the frame.

Step 27

Use blunt nose tweezers or your fingers to peel each stretch-release pull tab away from the battery.
Slowly pull the strips straight away from the battery, keeping a low angle to the frame.
Give the strips plenty of time to stretch. If a strip breaks off, try to retrieve it and continue pulling.
If you removed all four stretch-release adhesive strips, skip down five steps.
If any strips broke off, follow the next four steps for an alternative method to remove the battery.

Step 28

Apply several drops of highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) to the left edge of each battery cell.
Elevate the left edge of the iPad to allow the alcohol to flow under the battery cells.
Wait one minute for the alcohol to soften the adhesive.

Step 29

Slide a plastic card under the left edge of the upper battery cell near any broken strips of stretch-release adhesive.
Don't puncture or bend the battery. If it feels stuck, apply more isopropyl alcohol or apply a heated iOpener to the back of the frame to further soften the adhesive.
If you removed both stretch-release adhesive strips from the upper cell, skip to separating the lower cell.

Step 30

Be very careful not to bend the battery. If it feels stuck, apply a few more drops of isopropyl alcohol and slice the entire underside of the battery cell.
Reinsert your plastic card under the long edge of the battery cell to slice the remaining adhesive.
Twist the plastic card to lift the short edge of the battery cell from the frame.
Don't try to remove the battery yet—its still connected to the battery board.

Step 31

Insert your plastic card under the short edge of the lower battery cell to slice the adhesive.
Don't puncture or bend the battery. If it feels stuck, apply a few more drops of isopropyl alcohol or apply a heated iOpener to the back of the frame.
Insert the plastic card again under the long edge of the lower battery cell to slice the remaining adhesive.
Twist your plastic card to lift the short edge of the battery cell from the frame.
Don't try to remove the battery yet—it's still connected to the battery board.

Step 32

Lift the battery cells away from the frame to gain access to the left edge of the battery board.
Apply a few drops of isopropyl alcohol under the left edge of the battery board.
Elevate the left edge of the iPad and wait one minute to allow the alcohol to soften the adhesive.

Step 33

Insert an opening pick under the upper edge of the battery board.
Be sure to insert the pick completely under the battery board and not through its side.
After creating a gap between the battery board and the frame, remove the pick.

Step 34

Be careful not to bend the battery cells or board.
Insert your plastic card between the upper edge of the battery board and the frame, using the gap created by your opening pick.
Fully slide the plastic card under the battery board to separate the upper edge from the frame.

Step 35

Be careful not to bend the battery cells or board.
Insert your opening pick under the lower edge of the battery board.
Be sure to insert the pick completely under the battery board and not through its side.
Once you've created a gap between the battery board and the frame, remove the pick.
Slide your plastic card under the battery board to separate it from the frame.

Step 36

Grab and pull the battery cells away from the logic board until the connector slides out from under the card strips.
Remove the battery.

Step 37

Clean any remaining residue from your frame using a few drops of highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) and lint-free or microfiber cloth.
If your new battery doesn't come with adhesive, use double-sided adhesive such as Tesa tape to adhere it to the frame.

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement battery to the original one—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new battery before installing it.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad Air 5th Generation answers community for help.

2 comments

Is it possible to build a battery from an iPad Air 4 in the iPad Air 5? The battery's have the same specifications and the connector looks pretty similar.

Techozoom -

Hi Technozoom! I don't recommend salvaging an old iPad Air 4 battery, as used batteries can catch fire or heat up unpredictably, especially coming from an iPad, where the batteries are fragile and difficult to remove. That said, we just tested an Air 4 battery in an Air 5, and can confirm it works. So, if you have a new or like-new battery, you can perform the repair with a 4th generation battery. Good luck!

Clay Eickemeyer -