iPad 7 Logic Board Replacement

Written By: Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

Comments: 3

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

2 - 4 hours

Introduction

Use this guide to replace the logic board in your iPad 7.

Note: this guide is for the Wi-Fi version only. For the LTE version, click here.

For your safety, discharge the battery below 25% before disassembling your iPad. This reduces the risk of fire if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

Be very careful when you isolate the battery using a battery blocker. The battery contacts are easily damaged, resulting in irreversible damage. If you choose to complete the guide without isolating the battery, avoid using metal tools except when completely necessary (like when removing screws) to prevent shorting the battery and damaging sensitive circuit components.

Some photos in this guide are from a different model and may contain slight visual discrepancies, but they won't affect the guide procedure.

Tools

Step 1

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the left edge of the device for two minutes.

Step 2

While you're waiting for the adhesive to loosen, note the following areas that are sensitive to prying:
Front camera
Antennas
Display cables

Step 3

The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
Place an object under your iPad so it rests level between the suction cups.
Position the suction cups near the middle of the left edge—one on the top, and one on the bottom.
Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and firmly press down on the top cup to apply suction.
If you find that the surface of your iPad is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, use tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 4

Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

Step 5

Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
If your screen isn't getting hot enough, you can use a hair dryer to heat along the left edge of the iPad.
For complete instructions on how to use a hair dryer, check out this guide.
Insert an opening pick under the digitizer when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.
Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next step.

Step 6

If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.
Once the screen is warm to touch, apply a suction handle to the left edge of the screen and as close to the edge as possible.
Lift the screen with the suction handle to create a small gap between the digitizer and the frame.
Insert an opening pick into the gap between the digitizer and the frame.

Step 7

Insert a second opening pick into the gap you just created.
Slide the pick toward the bottom-left corner of the device to separate the adhesive.
Leave the pick in the bottom-left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
Don't worry if you can see the opening pick through the digitizer—just pull the pick out. The LCD screen shouldn't be damaged, but you risk leaving behind hard-to-clean adhesive.

Step 8

If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad to continue separating the adhesive.

Step 9

Slide the first opening pick towards the top-left corner of the device to separate the adhesive.
Leave the pick in the top-left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 10

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the device for two minutes.

How do you heat the iopener?

Steve Passmore -

Step 11

Rotate the pick around the top-left corner of the device to separate the adhesive.

Step 12

Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the device, stopping just before you reach the front camera.
Avoid sliding the pick over the front camera, as you may damage the lens. The following steps will show how to prevent this.

Step 13

Pull the pick out until only the tip is between the digitizer and the frame.
Slide the pick above the front camera to separate the adhesive.
Leave the pick near the right side of the front camera before continuing.

Step 14

Re-insert the pick and slide it towards the top-right corner of the device to completely separate the top adhesive.
Leave the pick in the top-right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 15

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the device for two minutes.

Step 16

Rotate the pick around the top-right corner of the device to separate the adhesive.

Step 17

Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the iPad's right edge.
The display cables are located approximately halfway from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding once you reach three inches from the bottom of the iPad.

There are sensitive display/digitizer cables no less than five inches from the bottom edge of the iPad. Insert the pick further down than this, or deeper than 1mm beyond this point and you risk irreparably damaging these cables.

Three inches is much too far down this side of the iPad to use picks.

rcrandall85 - 09/07/23

Step 18

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the device for two minutes.

Step 19

Slide the bottom-left pick to the bottom-left corner to separate the adhesive.
Don't fully rotate the pick around the corner, as you may damage the antenna.
Leave the pick in the bottom-left corner before moving to the next step.

Step 20

Insert a new opening pick into the gap you just created on the bottom edge of the iPad.
Slide the pick over the antenna, stopping just before the home button.
Only slide the pick towards the home button and not away from it, as you may damage the antenna.
If you need to slide the pick over this section again, remove and re-insert it at the bottom-left corner.
Leave the pick to the left of the home button before continuing.

Step 21

Insert an opening pick into the gap you just created.
Slide the pick underneath the home button and towards the bottom-right corner, making sure only the tip is between the digitizer and the frame.
Only insert the pick up to 1 mm to avoid damaging the right antenna.

Step 22

Re-insert the pick and slide it towards the home button to completely separate the bottom adhesive.
Only slide the pick towards the home button and not away from it, as you may damage the antenna.
If you need to slide the pick over this section again, remove and re-insert it at the bottom-right corner.
Leave the pick to the right of the home button before continuing.

Step 23

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the device for two minutes.

Step 24

Be very careful with this step. Take your time, ensure the adhesive is hot and soft, and make sure you separated all of the adhesive with a pick. Don't be afraid to stop and reheat.
Twist the two opening picks on the left corners of the iPad to lift the digitizer slightly, separating the the last of the adhesive in the process.
If there's a significant amount of resistance, reheat the edges and work along them with an opening pick.

Step 25

Lift the left edge of the digitizer upwards to further separate the adhesive along the right edge of the iPad.

Step 26

While supporting the digitizer, slide an opening pick between the two display cables to separate the last of the adhesive.

Step 27

Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the digitizer like a book and rest it parallel to the iPad.
During reassembly, clean the remaining adhesive from the frame—and the digitizer if you're re-using it—with isopropyl alcohol. Replace the adhesive with our adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards.
Be mindful of the display cables when reassembling the device. Make sure they are folded properly underneath the LCD screen to prevent any damage.

While reassembling, REALLY make sure the display cables and the home button cable won't be folded / bent while closing the digitizer. I'm not exactly sure what I did, but I broke the home button and touch ID since I bent the home button cable to the point that it broke. These ribbon cables are SUPER fragile.

op_ -

Step 28

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 4.3 mm-long screws securing the LCD to the frame.
Remove any tape obscuring the LCD screws.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

Step 29

Don't attempt to fully remove the LCD during this step, as it's still connected by several cables at the home button end.
Only lift the LCD from the front-facing camera end.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD out of its recess just enough to grab it with your fingers.
Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the frame.
Lay the LCD down onto a clean, soft, lint-free surface to allow access to the display cables.

Step 30

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 2.3 mm-long screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

Step 31

These photos show what the battery connector looks like underneath the logic board. Use these photos as a reference while you safely disconnect the battery.
Notice that the battery connector has cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you'll need to slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to disconnect the battery.

Step 32

Be careful when you isolate the battery using a battery blocker. The battery contacts are easily bent or broken, resulting in irreversible damage.
Ensure that the iFixit logo on the battery blocker is facing up.
Slide the battery blocker underneath the logic board's battery connector at a 35 degree angle.
Don't push the battery blocker underneath the connector with excessive force. If you're having trouble fitting the battery blocker underneath the logic board, you can try using a playing card to disconnect the battery instead.
The battery blocker or playing card ideally should slide under the logic board without encountering any blockages. After insertion, it should rest at about a 15 degree angle.
Leave the battery blocker in place as you work.

Step 33

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.4 mm-long screws securing the display cable bracket.

Step 34

Remove the display cable bracket.

Step 35

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the LCD cable by lifting straight up on the press connector.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Step 36

Remove the LCD completely and rest it face down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface.

Step 37

Use a pair of tweezers to peel off the tape covering the home button cable ZIF connector.

Step 38

Use a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector.

Step 39

Use a pair of tweezers to pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector.

Step 40

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the two digitizer cable press connectors.
To avoid damaging your iPad, pry only on the connectors themselves, not on the socket on the logic board.

Step 41

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the vibration isolator near the bottom-right corner of the device.
Take care not to puncture or tear the home button ribbon cable.
Remove the vibration isolator.

Step 42

The home button cable is secured with some light adhesive.
Use a pair of tweezers to peel the home button cable away from the frame.

Step 43

Remove the front panel assembly.
Use an opening pick to cut away any residual adhesive that may still be connecting the front panel assembly to the frame.
If you experience "ghost" or "phantom" touch input issues with your new display, this can be resolved by adding a layer of very thin insulating tape, such as Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the highlighted areas on the back of the panel. iFixit replacement digitizers come with the proper insulation and should not require the addition of any tape.
Without the proper insulation, these areas of the digitizer can ground out against other components, causing touch input malfunction.
The insulation is not visible to the naked eye, and is different from the foam dust barrier strips found on many iPads.
During reassembly, before installing a display, remove any remaining adhesive from the iPad, and clean the glued areas with high concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or greater) and a lint-free cloth. This helps prep the iPad for fresh adhesive and ensures that it will bond properly.
Test your iPad's functions and install pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display using our display adhesive application guide before sealing it up.

Step 44

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.4 mm-long screws securing the upper component bracket.

Step 45

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the upper component bracket from the frame.

Step 46

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the front camera cable's press connector.

Step 47

The front camera shell is lightly adhered to the frame.
Insert an opening pick between the front camera shell and the frame.

Step 48

Slide the pick along the perimeter of the camera shell to separate the adhesive.

Step 49

Pry up with the opening pick to separate the front camera shell from the frame.
Remove the front camera shell.

Step 50

The front camera is mounted on microphone assembly with adhesive.
Insert a spudger between the front camera and the microphone assembly
Pry up to separate the front camera's adhesive.
Remove the front camera.

Step 51

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack by lifting straight up on the press connector.

Step 52

Use your fingers to peel the headphone jack up from the frame and fold the cable out of the way.

Step 53

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear camera by lifting straight up on the press connector.

Step 54

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the microphone assembly by lifting straight up on the press connector.

Step 55

Peel off any tape covering the button control cable ZIF connector.

Step 56

Use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the button control cable ZIF connector.

Step 57

Use a pair of tweezers to carefully pull the button control cable straight out of the ZIF connector.

Step 58

Peel off any tape covering the Smart Cover sensor cable ZIF connector.

Step 59

Use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the Smart Cover sensor cable ZIF connector.

Step 60

Use a pair of tweezers to carefully pull the Smart Cover sensor cable straight out of the ZIF connector.

Step 61

Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the left antenna's coaxial cable.
Repeat for the right antenna's coaxial cable.
During reassembly, these can be tricky to reconnect. Hold each connector in place over its socket and press down with the flat end of a spudger. The connector should snap into place.

Step 62

Peel up the right antenna cable.
Grip the antenna cable by the cable itself and not at its connector. Pulling coaxial cables by their connectors can break them.

Step 63

Peel the left antenna cable away from the frame, along the bottom edge of the iPad.

Step 64

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the vibration isolator at the bottom left corner of the iPad.
Use a pair of tweezers to remove the vibration isolator.

Step 65

Use a pair of tweezers, or your fingers, to peel up the tape covering the speaker connectors.

Step 66

Use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on both the left and right speaker cable ZIF connectors.

Step 67

Use a pair of tweezers to carefully pull the left and right speaker cables straight out of their respective ZIF connectors.

Step 68

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the Smart Connector coaxial cable by prying up as close to the connector as possible.

Step 69

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the Smart Connector cable's connector.

Step 70

Use a pair of tweezers to peel back the tape securing the Smart Connector cables to the frame.

Step 71

Peel the Smart Connector cables away from the frame.

Step 72

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four screws securing the charging port to the frame:
Two 2.2 mm-long screws
Two 3.2 mm-long screws

Step 73

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom, top, and logic board side of the iPad for thirty seconds in each location.

Step 74

Insert an opening pick under the charging port cable near the logic board and slide it toward the charging port to slice the adhesive.

Step 75

Insert an opening pick under the charging port cable near the charging port and slide it towards the logic board to cut the adhesive.

Step 76

Pull the charging port out of its slot in the frame.

Step 77

Insert an opening pick under the upper arm of the logic board and slide it toward the logic board to cut the adhesive securing it to the frame.
Leave the opening pick inserted to keep the adhesive from re-adhering.

Step 78

Remove the battery blocker.

Step 79

Insert an opening tool near the middle of the logic board and pry up with a slow and steady force to peel it away from the frame.
Bending or warping the logic board could lead to permanent damage. If the adhesive feels extra stubborn, apply more heat and try again.
If the logic board won't budge, slide an opening pick underneath the bottom edge of the logic board to slice some of the adhesive.

Step 80

Use a halberd spudger or an opening pick to slice any remaining adhesive securing the logic board to the frame.

Step 81

Remove the logic board.
During reassembly, ensure that there are no ribbon cables stuck under the logic board before gluing it down.
During reassembly, apply strips of Tesa tape if the original adhesive is too mangled to be reused.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad 7 Answers community for help.

Author

Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

Member since: 16/01/22

117875 Reputation

iPad 7 Logic Board Replacement

Introduction

Tools

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