Google Pixel 7 Rear Cameras Replacement

Written By: Dominik Schnabelrauch

Comments: 13

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

This repair guide was authored by the iFixit staff and hasn’t been endorsed by Google. Learn more about our repair guides here.

Use this guide to replace one or both rear cameras in your Google Pixel 7.

For your safety, discharge the battery below 25% before disassembling your phone. This reduces the risk of fire if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

Caution: The Pixel 7 contains class 1 lasers. Disassembly could result in exposure to invisible infrared laser emissions.

This guide was made using the GQML3 model, which features a 5G mmWave antenna. If you have a non-mmWave model, you can still use this guide—just ignore the mmWave antenna steps.

Retaining water resistance after the repair will depend on how well you reapply the adhesive, but your device will lose its IP (Ingress Protection) rating.

You'll need replacement adhesive in order to complete this repair.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Allow your battery to drain below 25% before starting this repair. A charged battery may catch fire if damaged.
Fully power off your phone and unplug any cables.

i replaced my pixel 7 screen, I noticed that my proximity sensor is no longer working, I have tried to calibrate it using 3rd part apps and it ddisnt work,i tried using developer settings to switch the proximity sensor and i also updated my android version...all these didnt work

Ian -

Step 2

The screen of the Google Pixel 7 is held in place by plastic clips and adhesive.
During the removal procedure, make sure to insert your opening picks in the right position to avoid separating the screen from its safety frame instead of the phone assembly.
Only insert the pick up to ~3.5 mm during the removal procedure to avoid damaging the internals and to avoid interfering with the plastic clips.
There are several plastic clips around the whole screen. In case your opening pick gets blocked during the screen removal procedure it means you inserted your pick too deep underneath the screen.

Step 3

The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
If your screen is cracked, cover it with a layer of clear packing tape to help the suction cup adhere.
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your phone.
Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the phone—one on the front, and one on the back.
Squeeze the cups together to apply suction.
If you find that the surface of your phone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 4

Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

Step 5

Heat an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.
You can also use a hair dryer or heat gun—but extreme heat can damage the display and/or internal battery, so proceed with care.
Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the phone.
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
Insert an opening pick under the screen frame when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.
Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next two steps.

Step 6

Apply a heated iOpener to the screen to loosen the adhesive underneath. Apply the iOpener for at least 3 minutes.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the device. The edge should feel slightly too hot to the touch.

Step 7

Once the screen is warm to the touch, apply a suction handle to the bottom edge of the screen.
If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.
Lift the screen including its safety frame with the suction handle to create a small gap between the screen and the phone assembly.
Depending on the age of your phone, this may be difficult. If you're having trouble, apply more heat to the bottom edge and try again.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.

If you're having trouble getting the first pick in, try a different hand position than what is shown. Grip the suction cup's handle with your index finger, and keep your thumb and middle finger on either side of the screen. Choose a forgiving surface underneath in case you slip. Then hold firmly and keep it stable (no need to really push down). Just be prying it open deliberately and evenly. Then take your pick and use gentle prodding, experimenting with your angle and pressure, feel around. That should be all you need to get in.

Orin Zebest - 12/06/23

Step 8

To avoid damaging your phone, don't insert your pick more than ~2.5 mm as you separate the screen adhesive. Note the following areas:
The screen cable is a little less than halfway up the left edge of the phone. Be very careful here to avoid tearing the cable.
There are many spring contacts around the perimeter of the phone. Be very careful in these areas to avoid bending the contacts.

Step 9

Slide the opening pick to the bottom right corner of the screen to slice its adhesive.
Leave the opening pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 10

Insert a second opening pick at the bottom edge and slide it to the bottom left corner of the screen to slice the adhesive.
Leave the opening pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 11

Insert a third opening pick underneath the bottom left corner of the screen.
Slide the opening pick along the left edge of the screen to slice the adhesive and to release the plastic clips.
Leave the opening pick in the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 12

If the adhesive becomes hard to cut, it has most likely cooled down. Use your iOpener or heat gun for 1-2 minutes to reheat it.
When you slice near the front facing camera, insert only the tip of the opening pick (~2.5 mm) to avoid damaging or smearing the camera.
Insert a fourth opening pick at the top left corner of the screen.
Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the phone to slice the adhesive.
Leave the opening pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

This is the only slice that makes me nervous. Never had a problem, but yeah... extra care because of the camera.

Orin Zebest -

Step 13

Insert a fifth opening pick and slide it along the right edge of the phone to slice the remaining adhesive and release the right plastic clips.
Do not try to remove the display all the way yet, the screen is still connected to the phone assembly by a flex cable.

Step 14

Lift the right edge of the screen up and towards the left side of the device, like opening a book.
Don't twist the screen or move it too far away from the frame to avoid straining or damaging the flex cable.
Rest the screen upside down and parallel to the frame before continuing.

The adhesive still sticking to the screen might trip you up... don't let it pull the screen in weird ways. Just pick that stuff off and the screen sits perfectly next to the phone, as pictured.

Orin Zebest -

Step 15

The display cable bracket sits tightly and requires some force to release it.
Insert one arm of a pair of tweezers into the opening at the upper end of the display cable bracket.
Push the bracket inwards and pry up to release it.

The way this piece is wedged in there can be a difficult to imagine, so you may need to apply force at a different angle than you expect. I bent mine a few times, but just bent it back into shape with no issue.

Orin Zebest -

This was a pain to get out! Felt like I was going to rip the whole cable out. But it popped out eventually.

Alex Thengvall -

Step 16

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the display cable bracket by pulling it from underneath the midframe and in direction of the cameras.

I forgot to replace this the first time. It's not a dealbreaker (phone works fine without it), but if you ever open your phone again you must be super-extra careful -- nothing is securing the connection.

Orin Zebest -

Step 17

Use a spudger to disconnect the display flex cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Getting the press connector aligned properly is a very fiddly task and impossible without a light touch and several tries. My only advice is to take a break if you get frustrated. There's no 'click' or anything to help you notice that you've got it right. But when you do, it'll just... fit. And you'll probably think, "wait I did it? oh, not as hard as it sounded. just took awhile."

Orin Zebest -

Beware! I tried using the forceps instead of my finger and I ended up tearing into the ribbon cable. So be careful and use your finger if possible. I wouldn't use a sharp tool like I did. There are a couple Youtube videos that probably can help if you search "pixel 7 screen replacement". Sadly I didn't do that first.

Alex Thengvall -

Step 18

Separate the screen from the phone.
During reassembly:
Check that all screws are tightened and there are no loose parts.
Reconnect the screen and test your phone to make sure it works. Power it back down and continue reassembly.
Apply new adhesive where it's necessary after cleaning the relevant areas with isopropyl alcohol (>90%).
Follow this guide if you're using custom-cut adhesives for your device.
Follow this guide if you're using a pre-cut adhesive card.
During the boot-up process after reassembly, the screen will go through a calibration sequence. Do not touch the screen during this process, as it could result in improper touch calibration and create touch issues.

Step 19

Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with your tool in the following steps—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.
Use a pair of tweezers to peel the black silicone pad off the battery and midframe.

Step 20

Use a pair of tweezers to carefully peel the upper graphite foil off the battery and midframe.
If you're having a hard time peeling off the foil, apply a heated iOpener to the foil for two minutes to loosen its adhesive.

Step 21

Use a pair of tweezers to carefully peel the lower graphite foil off the battery and midframe.
If you're having a hard time peeling off the foil, apply a heated iOpener to the foil for two minutes to loosen its adhesive.

Step 22

Use a Torx T3 screwdriver to remove the three 5.1 mm-long screws securing the loudspeaker.

Step 23

Use a pair of tweezers to lift the loudspeaker out of its recess and remove it.

Step 24

Use a Torx T3 screwdriver to remove the nine 5.1 mm-long screws securing the midframe.

Step 25

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the midframe.
During reassembly check the condition of the thermal pad. If it's damaged, remove the pad, clean the area with high-concentration (greater than 90%) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber or lint-free cloth, and apply a new thermal pad.

Step 26

Use a spudger to disconnect the battery cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Step 27

The next six steps show how to remove the mmWave antenna.
Use a Torx T3 screwdriver to remove the 5.1 mm-long screw securing the mmWave antenna bracket.

Diese Schraube ist im Pixel 7 nicht vorhanden, da es eine der Mittelrahmenschrauben ist. Ab hier ist es etwas anders als in der Anleitung

Nikolaus Ostovary (Ostolaus) -

Step 28

Insert a spudger underneath the bottom right edge of the mmWave antenna bracket.
Pry upwards to loosen the mmWave antenna bracket.

Step 29

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the mmWave antenna bracket.

Step 30

Use a spudger to disconnect the mmWave antenna cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Step 31

Use a pair of tweezers to lift the mmWave antenna (including its cable) out of its recess.
Remove the mmWave antenna assembly.
During reassembly check the condition of the thermal pad. If it's damaged, remove the pad, clean the area with high-concentration (greater than 90%) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber or lint-free cloth, and apply a new thermal pad.

Step 32

Use a Torx T3 screwdriver to remove the 5.1 mm-long screw securing the rear cameras.

Step 33

Use a spudger to disconnect the wide-angle camera cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Step 34

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the wide-angle camera.

Step 35

Use a spudger to disconnect the ultra wide-angle camera cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Step 36

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the ultra wide-angle camera.

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

To run a diagnostics test with the built-in Pixel Diagnostic tool, click here.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Google Pixel 7 answers community for help.

Author

Dominik Schnabelrauch

Member since: 23/11/16

201162 Reputation

3 comments

Hi,

thank you for your useful instructions. I have some questions regarding the thermal paste: Why do I need to remove it? Can't i keep it in place and reuse it? And is it really paste or some kind of tape?

Adel -

It isn't recommended to reuse thermal paste. This type of paste loses solvent under heat within a real-life application. In these conditions, thermal paste tends to crack and dry out, losing its ability concerning thermal transfer.

Josh -

I have a question about the camera lense.

Can it be replaced without disassembling/replacing the entire camera?

Michael -