Google Pixel 4 Display Assembly Replacement

Written By: Carsten Frauenheim

Comments: 12

Google Pixel 4 Display Assembly Replacement

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

1 - 3 hours

Introduction

This repair guide was authored by the iFixit staff and hasn’t been endorsed by Google. Learn more about our repair guides here.

Use this guide to remove or replace the display assembly on your Google Pixel 4.

Note: Follow this guide to replace the display assembly by itself. Some replacement assemblies for this phone come pre-installed in a new frame (a.k.a. chassis), which requires you to transplant all of your phone's internals and install a new battery. If you're replacing the display assembly attached to a frame, follow this guide instead.

Due to the Pixel’s design, you will have to remove the back panel in order to disconnect the display connector.

Before you begin this procedure, be sure to have a set of replacement adhesives for both the back panel and the display panel.

This procedure will almost always destructively remove the Pixel 4’s display panel. OLEDs cease to work when exposed to oxygen or moisture, and are thus sealed in an airtight encapsulation (this is also why OLED panels turn black underneath a display assembly crack). It is very difficult to replace the front glass alone— the Pixel’s OLED layers are laminated to the glass, and the display assembly will come out as one unit.

Caution: Google warns that disassembly of the front laser assembly could result in hazardous exposure to invisible infrared laser emissions. Read their safety warnings here.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Insert a SIM eject tool, bit, or a straightened paper clip into the small hole on the SIM card tray on the left edge of the phone.
Press firmly to eject the tray.
Remove the SIM card tray.

Step 2

Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the back panel for one minute.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

Step 3

Apply a suction cup to the heated edge of the back panel by pressing down on it to create suction, as close to the edge as possible.
If your back glass is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken panel.

Step 4

Pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap between the back panel and the frame.
Depending on the age of your phone, this may be difficult. If you are having trouble, apply more heat to the edge and try again.
Insert the point of an opening pick into the gap.

Step 5

Slide the opening pick across the bottom towards the left corner to slice the adhesive.
With the pick still inserted, slide it from the bottom left corner over to the bottom right corner to completely slice the bottom side adhesive.
Leave the pick inserted in the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 6

Prepare an iOpener and apply it on the left edge of the phone for one minute.

Step 7

Insert a second opening pick underneath the back panel directly over the charge port.
Slide the opening pick to the bottom left corner of the phone.

Step 8

Slide the opening pick around the bottom left corner and across the left side of the phone to slice the adhesive.
The adhesive can be very gummy. Push the pick in and out in a sawing motion to help with slicing.
Stop when you reach the top left corner, near the camera, and leave the pick inserted.

Step 9

Prepare an iOpener and apply it on the right edge of the phone for one minute.

Step 10

With the first two opening picks still in place, insert a third pick on the lower part of the righthand side.
Slide the opening pick up towards the top of the phone, slicing the right side's adhesive.
Stop when you reach the top right corner, and leave the pick inserted.

Step 11

Slide the third opening pick around the top right corner and across the top side of the phone, slicing the final strip of adhesive.

Step 12

Once you have sliced around the perimeter of the phone, carefully lift the right edge of the back cover, opening it like a book.
Do not try to pull the panel all the way off yet, as it is still connected to the phone.

Step 13

Continue swinging open the back panel until you can rest it on the left edge the phone, being careful not to put any stress on the attached ribbon cable.
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your phone and test all functions before re-sealing the back panel. Be sure to power your phone back down completely before you continue working.

At this point I suggest taking a photo of what you're seeing in there. This way you can make sure you put it all back the way it was when you're done.

Brian Wood -

Step 14

Remove the five T3 Torx screws securing the battery connector shield:
Four 4.0 mm screws
One 2.1 mm screw
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Does anyone know where I can get a replacement T3 - 2.1mm screw (the one circled in orange)? I lost this screw during the battery replacement. Had it, dogs fought, had to get up to break it up, and couldn’t find it. I swore I put it on the mat, but I couldn’t find it when I got back to the table. :(

Nikki Chan -

Step 15

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the battery connector shield.

Step 16

Whenever you use the spudger near the battery, be very careful not to puncture the battery.
Using the pointed end of a spudger, pry the battery connector straight up from the motherboard to disconnect the battery.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Step 17

Using the flat end of a spudger, gently fold the battery cable over so it doesn't accidentally make contact during the rest of your repairs.

Step 18

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 4 mm screws securing the back panel connector cover.

Step 19

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the back panel connector cover.

Step 20

Using the pointed end of a spudger, pry up and disconnect the back panel connector.

Step 21

Remove the back panel.
During reassembly, follow this guide to install custom-cut adhesives for your device.
Follow this guide if you are using a pre-cut adhesive card.

Why does the kit not come with the back panel adhesive?

It's not cheap to get the full kit, and it seems like it's such a small thing to include.

I ended up re-using the existing back panel adhesive and now a bit worried that it's not as strong and I will have issues with water or moisture getting into the device more easily.

Mike Y -

Step 22

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the four 4 mm screws securing the camera connector cover.

left-most screw appears to be t4, not t3

Mark Schierbecker - 23/05/21

Step 23

Using a pair of tweezers, tilt the camera cover up and slide it out of the retaining slot on the upper right corner of the phone to remove.

Step 24

Using the pointed end of a spudger, pry the camera and sensor connectors straight up from the motherboard.

Step 25

Disconnect the laser module connector.

Step 26

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.4 mm screws securing the front camera and sensor assembly.

Step 27

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the front camera and sensor assembly.

I have done the whole step twice with two different (aftermarket) cameras on a Google Pixel 4 and the first one didn’t work at all and the second one worked perfectly good but then stopped working after restarting the phone. Why? And the faceID doesn’t work when the whole thing is replaced so I put the old one back so I can use the faceID. Why did the front camera work perfectly untill we restarted the phone and then stopped working???

Mert Köroğlu -

Maybe Google’s face ID works the same as Apple’s fingerprint or face ID module, they are bound with motherboards for security reasons.

FROD Yeh -

Step 28

Use a spudger to disconnect the display connector from the motherboard.

Step 29

Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the display for one minute.

Step 30

This process will almost always destroy the OLED display panel. Only proceed if you are replacing an already-broken display assembly.
Apply a suction cup to the heated edge of the display assembly
If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken display assembly.
Pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap between the display assembly and the frame.
Depending on the age of your phone, this may be difficult. If you are having trouble, apply heat to the edge and try again.
Insert the point of an opening pick into the gap.
Depending on the age of your phone, this may take significant force. If you are having trouble, apply more heat and try again.

I found this to be the toughest part.

Gabe Gibitz - 15/05/21

Step 31

Slide the opening pick down the right bezel of the phone, between the display and the frame, to slice the adhesive.
Leave the pick inserted in the bottom right corner.

Step 32

Insert a second opening pick underneath the display assembly in the top left corner of the phone, near the front-facing camera cutout.
If this is difficult, you may need to reapply an iOpener to the upper edge of the display assembly.
Slide the opening pick around the corner and down the left side of the phone, stopping about halfway down, and leave the pick inserted.

Step 33

Insert a third opening pick under the display assembly in the middle of the right edge of the phone and twist to separate the assembly.

Step 34

Tilt the display assembly up along the left edge of the phone.
Slide the display connector out of the hole near the motherboard to separate the display assembly from the rest of the phone.
The connector will slide out without any force.

Step 35

Remove the display assembly.
You will have to thread the replacement assembly's display cable through the motherboard cutout.
If you're having trouble, you can unclip the white antenna cable running through the same cutout or you can loosen and partially remove the motherboard.
If you're using a custom-cut adhesive, follow this guide for instructions on how to apply adhesive to the replacement display assembly.
Be sure to test your repairs before you affix the display assembly with adhesives.
If you are using Tesa tape to reattach the display assembly, follow this guide.
During the boot-up process after reassembly, the display assembly will go through a calibration sequence. Do not touch the assembly during this process, as it could result in improper touch calibration and create touch issues.

When installing the screen make sure the cameras and sensors are clean and don’t touch the inside of the screen where these reside.

David Hunt - 02/02/21

Connect the cord for the screen before pressing the new screen into place. This assures the new screen is not off my a fraction of an inch and that the connector will line up.

jcd -

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.

Author

Carsten Frauenheim

Member since: 10/03/20

110978 Reputation

3 comments

The guide was perfect. The hardest step was removing the front screen but with repeated use of the iOpener the screen finally came free.

David Springston -

I didnt check that the earpiece speaker grill was transferred from the original screen to the replacement which I had bought. “Cheaper” screens I’ve bought for various phones dont have the little extras. Mistake on my part but I was able to remove the new screen without damage! A little note in the steps to prep the screen could be handy.

I use a Razor blade technique for back plate removal. With minimal heating its possible to insert a safety razor blade into the adhesive gap by only a couple of millimetres and cut the glue . This leaves the original seal in place which then needs cleaning off to do a proper job. I glued the seal (without removing) to replace the back cover with good results. Nothing else has a finer leading edge and the strength gives good purchase. Safety being obvious - needs to be done with a decent pair of cut resistant gloves.

Fantastic guide and comprehensive. Mark up of the different screw lengths is a life saver. Cudos to google for minimising the variety of screws used!.

Matt K -

I replaced the screen while keeping the frame, but unfortunately had already gone too far in the "replace screen including frame" tutorial, so I did a bit more work than I'd have to. Reassembled, and now the phone is unresponsive, just black screen, no reaction at all, with or without a power cable attached. If it's one of the connections, is there a good way to narrow down the problem? From which point should I be able to turn the phone on or get some reaction without completely assembling it?

Cirkmann Zirkel - 22/09/22