Rhubarb Triangle

The Rhubarb Triangle (also alliteratively known as the Tusky Triangle,[1] from the Yorkshire word for rhubarb) is a 9-square-mile (23 km2) triangle in West Yorkshire, England between Wakefield, Morley and Rothwell famous for producing early forced rhubarb. It includes Kirkhamgate, East Ardsley, Stanley, Lofthouse and Carlton.[2] The Rhubarb Triangle was originally much bigger, covering an area between Leeds, Bradford and Wakefield.[3] From the first decade of the 20th century to 1939 the rhubarb industry expanded and at its peak covered an area of about 30 square miles (78 km2).[4]

Rhubarb sculpture in Wakefield.

Rhubarb is native to Siberia and thrives in the wet cold winters in Yorkshire. West Yorkshire once produced 90% of the world's winter forced rhubarb from the forcing sheds that were common across the fields there.[5]

In February 2010, Yorkshire Forced Rhubarb was awarded Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status by the European Commission’s Protected Food Name scheme after being recommended by Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (Defra).[6]

Cultivation
Rhubarb shed in the Rhubarb Triangle

The cultivation method for forced rhubarb was developed in the early 1800s.[7] The fields were fertilised with large quantities of horse manure and 'night soil' from the nearby urban areas and woollen waste from "mungo and shoddy" mills.[8]

The rhubarb plants spend two years out in the fields without being harvested. While in the fields the plants store energy from the sun in their roots as carbohydrates. The roots are subjected to frost before being moved into sheds in November where they are kept in complete darkness. In the sheds the plants begin to grow in the warmth and the stored carbohydrate in the roots is transformed into glucose resulting in forced rhubarb's sour-sweet flavour.[9] The sheds are long low buildings which are heated; originally with coal, which was plentiful and relatively cheap in the area, but this has been replaced by diesel.[10]

Forced rhubarb grown in the sheds is more tender than that grown outdoors in summer. Without daylight the rhubarb leaves are a green-yellow colour, and the stalks, measuring around 2 feet (61 cm), are crimson in colour with a smooth texture. Traditionally, the pickers pull the stalks in candlelight as any exposure to strong light will stop the growth. By the end of March the harvest is over and the root stock is totally exhausted and used for compost.[10]

History

Growing and forcing rhubarb was originally done by many hundreds of small farmers, smallholders and market gardeners. In later years some growers expanded and owned many thousands of roots and extensive forcing sheds.[4] In the late 19th century early forced rhubarb was sent to Spitalfields and Covent Garden markets in London in time for Christmas and was sent to Paris for the French market. A special express train carrying rhubarb was run by the Great Northern Railway Company from Ardsley station every weekday night during the forced rhubarb season from Christmas until Easter. Up to 200 tons of rhubarb sent by up to 200 growers was carried daily at the peak of production before 1939.[7] In 1962, a rail strike caused the growers to look for alternative transport and the service ended shortly after. A permanent exhibition about forced rubarb is on display at Wakefield Museum.[4] Rhubarb became less popular after the Second World War when more exotic fruits became more available.[5]

The Oxford English Dictionary dates the name "rhubarb triangle" to a 1965 textbook mentioning pre-war trains rhubarb specials that ran from the West Riding rhubarb triangle to London and it was mentioned in the Guardian newspaper in 1986.[11][12]

EU recognition of Yorkshire Forced Rhubarb
Carlton village sign celebrates its link with rhubarb

Twelve farmers who farm within the Rhubarb Triangle applied to have the name "Yorkshire forced rhubarb" added to the list of foods and drinks that have their names legally protected by the European Commission's Protected Food Name scheme.[13] The application was successful and the farmers in the Rhubarb Triangle[lower-alpha 1] were awarded Protected Designation of Origin status (PDO) in February 2010. Food protected status accesses European funding to promote the product and legal backing against other products made outside the area using the name. Other protected names include Stilton cheese, Champagne and Parma Ham. Leeds Central MP, Hilary Benn, was involved in the Defra campaign to win protected status.[14][15]

Culture

Wakefield Council holds an annual Rhubarb Festival in February, celebrating the area's links and promoting the surviving rhubarb industry. A Farmers' Market, cookery demonstrations, walks and tours of the forcing sheds are among the attractions.[2][16] In 2005 Wakefield council erected a sculpture depicting a rhubarb plant in Holmfield Park Wakefield.[17] Rhubarb growing and the 'Rhubarb Express' are featured in Wakefield Museum.

In Frances Brody's 2019 novel The Body on the Train (Piatkus: ISBN 978-0-349-42306-7) a murdered man's body is found on a rhubarb train from Ardsley, on its arrival at King's Cross. The book's cover illustration features boxes of rhubarb on a platform beside a train.

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References

Notes

  1. The Rhubarb Triangle's geographical area in EU law is " from Ackworth Moor Top north along the A628 to Featherstone and Pontefract. Then on to the A656 through Castleford. It then goes west along the A63 past Garforth and West Garforth. Head north passing Whitkirk, Manston and on towards the A6120 by Scholes. Follow the A6120 west, round to pass Farsley which then leads south west via the A647 onto the A6177. Pass Dudley Hill to pick up the M606 south. At junction 26 take the M62 south to junction 25 head east along A644 toward Dewsbury, passing Mirfield, to pick up the A638 towards Wakefield. At Wakefield take the A638 south to Ackworth Moor top.[14]

Citations

  1. Tusky Tale - Dalesman, Dalesman, retrieved 8 December 2018
  2. Markham 2005, p. 118
  3. Map of the Week, BBC, retrieved 4 March 2010
  4. Rhubarb Triangle, Morley Archives, retrieved 21 February 2010
  5. Working Lunch, BBC, 7 February 2006, retrieved 21 February 2010
  6. EU name status, BBC, 25 February 2010, retrieved 25 February 2010
  7. Jack, Ian (18 January 2008), Food and Drink, The Guardian, retrieved 21 February 2010
  8. A Shoddy Tale (PDF), Watsonia.org, p. 2, retrieved 21 February 2010
  9. Mackay, Mairi (19 February 2008), Rhubarb, Times Online, retrieved 21 February 2010
  10. Forced rhubarb, Brandy Carr Nurseries, archived from the original on 9 March 2010, retrieved 21 February 2010
  11. "Rhubarb Triangle" (Subscription or UK public library membership required), Oxford Oxford English Dictionary Third Edition, retrieved 10 November 2010
  12. Robinson 1965, p. 128
  13. Application to register Yorkshire Forced Rhubarb (PDF), DEFRA, archived from the original (PDF) on 22 August 2013, retrieved 25 February 2010
  14. Yorkshire rhubarb joins Europe’s protected food elite, DEFRA, archived from the original on 22 August 2013, retrieved 17 April 2016
  15. Bates, Stephen (25 February 2010), European Protection, The Guardian, retrieved 25 February 2010
  16. Rhubarb Festival, Wakefield Council, archived from the original on 5 February 2010, retrieved 21 February 2010
  17. Bell 2009, p. 28

Bibliography

  • Bell, Richard (2009), Walks in the Rhubarb Triangle, Willow Island Editions, ISBN 978-1-902467-18-4
  • Markham, Len (2005), The Wharncliffe Companion to Wakefield & District, Wharncliffe, ISBN 1-903425-89-1
  • Robinson, Harry (1965), Geography for business studies, MacDonald & Evans

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