North Face (Everest)

The North Face is the northern side of Mount Everest.[1] George Mallory's body was found on the North face.[1] The North Face is a place where one author/climber noted, "a simple slip would mean death."[1]

North face of Mount Everest

Views
Everest's north face, lit up by the setting sun

Routes
  Green line
 Standard route from north, mainly identical with Mallory's route in 1924; high camps on c.7700 m and 8300 m (indicated by two triangles), present day camp on 8300 m is located a bit further west (for general reference, the route's topographic map and elevation profile can be found here).
  Navy blue line
 Zakharov Couloir.
  Light blue line
 Messner's traverse from north ridge to Norton Couloir in 1980 ("Everest Solo by Fair Means") w/o O2.
  Red line
 Great Couloir or Norton Couloir.
  Purple line
 Complete northeast ridge with Three Pinnacles; Japanese route to the top. Climbed before by Russell Brice & Comp., but only the purple-marked part of the ridge, without going to the summit; descent via standard route.
  Yellow line and
  Dark blue line
 American 1963, "The West Ridge".
  Orange line
 Yugoslavian route, 1979.
  Dark blue line
 Hornbein Couloir.
†1 Resting place of Mallory's body, discovered in 1999 (graveyard with more than 15 bodies, according to Conrad Anker).
†2 1st Step, resting place of Francys Arsentiev, "Green Boots", David Sharp.
†3 2nd Pinnacle, resting place of Peter Boardman (+1982) in 1992.
? 2nd step, base at 8605 m, c.30 m high, (difficulty: 5–9/10).
(a) Point at ca. 8325 m, reached by George Ingle Finch with supplementary oxygen in 1922.
(b) Point at 8572 m on the western side of the Couloir, reached by Edward Felix Norton 1924 without supplementary oxygen (Norton preferred climbing the wall rather than climbing the ridge).
(c) Area left out by the Yugoslavian party on their "complete West Ridge" ascent in 1979.
(d) Difficult area that forced Americans, Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld, to traverse from the west ridge to the north face in 1963.
Changtse is in the foreground

Location
Chomo LonzoMakaluEverestTibetan PlateauRong RiverChangtseRongbuk GlacierNorth Face (Everest)LhotseNuptseSouth Col routeGyachung KangCho Oyu
Southern and northern climbing routes as seen from the International Space Station. (The names on the photo are links to corresponding pages.)

Above
View from above of all sides, including the northern face
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See also
  • Kangshung face (East side)

References
  1. The Other Side of Everest: Climbing the North Face Through the Killer Storm By Matt Dickinson
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