Introduction

For an easier repair, use our fix kit and follow this shorter guide to replace your iPhone’s entire display assembly.

For more advanced fixers, this guide will help you replace only the iPhone 5s LCD screen + digitizer assembly (a.k.a. the bare “front panel”). This requires you to transfer several components from your original screen to the new one before installing it—including the front-facing camera, earpiece speaker, LCD shield plate, and home button assembly.

For all screen/display repairs, it's important to transfer the original home button onto the new display in order for Touch ID (fingerprint scanning) to function.

You can also use this guide to replace the following parts:

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    • Before you proceed, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.9 mm Pentalobe screws from either side of Lightning connector.

    I used a white terrycloth hand towel as my work surface and to position and retain all the screws and part in their relative positions, so I didn't mix things up. I also magnetized the screwdriver tips and that made it very easy to deal with these tiny, tiny screws.

    Magnus Dalen -

    For a secure working, put a small pot with lid on your workplace. When the battery starts burning, throw it in the pot, close it with the lid and get the pot safely out of the building, e.g. on the balcony or throw it out of the window. Do not try to extinct the battery with water, just let it burn out outside. This might take some hours.

    Raymond Willems -

    This is a really helpful one! My battery caught fire but luckily it was only one cell and not the entire battery. So it was done after a few seconds and I could go on with the replacement.

    Matthias Blab -

    Directions should say “use the P2 screwdriver head.”

    William Kolb -

    This step should have included that information. It was very helpful and important. Thank you very much.

    Jeffery -

    ifixit supplied a set of replacement philips screws (marked “Liberate!”). Thanks but I’m sticking with the pentalobe since they fit more securely than philips which have a chance of stripping if not held with the right amount of pressure.

    Don Libes -

    What are you supposed to do if the screws are stripped or won’t come out. No luck with the tweezers either.

    ibrokeit -

    Yep i‘ve had the same problem. One screw out, one that won‘t budge!!!

    Stennett -

    “cheater” reading glasses are a big help. Carolyn

    Carolyn Green -

    In this step, it is the P02 screwdriver from the kit (see that the nib has five sides , exactly for ‘pentalobe’ screws). All the other steps involving screws it was the Philips 000 (there was a third screwdriver Y 000 in the kit which I did not use). Did not have any problems at all removing and readding screws back through the process.

    Andre Silva -

    I'm trying to fix my 5s’s but one has some water damage, and impeccable screen but won't turn on,then I have another one that has no water damage, screens a bit busted but won't turn because of the screen. If I use the good screen from the water damaged phone would it work?

    samuel.m.fudge -

    After removing the phone from a very good plastic case and before I started the repair I cleaned the entire phone with a soft cloth misted with rubbing alcohol. That removes all the grunge which builds up in the seams of the phone and the small spaces inside the case. Having a clean phone to work on makes the job a lot easier and prevents grunge from falling into the phone.

    David Park -

    General comment about the screwdriver tips and reassembly: If you get a screw nicely set in place using tweezers and then use the screwdriver, the magnet will probably pull the screw out before you can tighten it. If this is a problem use just the tip (without the handle) to start the screw, then tighten using the handle.

    Kevin Patfield -

    DO NOT disconnect the screen.

    Benjamin Piscopo -

    Having two SE’s needing batteries, I ordered an extra battery. The extra battery did not come with the Phillips replacement screws. It would be helpful if every battery came with a set of case replacement screws.

    Dorothy Campbell -

    Upon reassembly I found it useful to squeeze the phone right above the screws so everything lines up nice. I noticed that when I didn’t do this the new Phillips screws were trying to go in crooked. So just holding the phone together helps.

    Samara Sullivan -

    hello i am replacing my iphone 5s battery but i am stucked because the adhesive broke whiles pulling it out

    before i started i made sure my battery was 0% but i am afraid that when i mistakenly puncture it with the spudger it might catch fire

    please is the battery capable of catching fire when it has no power (0%)?

    please can someone give me the honest answers before i continue

    thank you

    George Rockson -

    The screws in my iPhoneSE were not P2 (1,2mm) but P1 (0,8mm). I had to order an extra screwdriver which is not available at iFixit.

    Tadeus Nawka -

    Instructions were fine until removing the battery , No adhesive strip at the bottom of the battery . Unable to remove battery as the battery was stuck sold with adhesive but could not get at the adhesive strip to remove battery . seems whoever put the battery together did not put a strip across the bottom . Had the phone from new and this was the first time I tried to replace the battery . Now I need a new phone

    J Caley -

    Instructions fine until removing the battery . No strip at bottom of the battery hence impossible to get at the adhesive strips around the battery . This must have been done in the factory as I have had the phone from new and this was the first time the battery was being replaced . Cheesed off as I now need a new phone

    J Caley -

    30 minutes - to an hour? I gave up after removing the screws and spending an hour trying to lift the display with a suction pad.

    harwood -

    iPhone 5s maderbored

    Rahan Ali -

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    • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

    This is a Step 4 comment. I ordered the iSclack tool to help with my 5s battery replacement. After 30 minutes of trying to open the iPhone, I gave up and will try this later when I have a lot more time to spend on this. Before you ask, yes I did remove the two screws in Step 2. I must have a very tight fitting phone! Maybe next time I'll try a drop of oil on both suction cups to help with the adhesion. LOL, did not think I'd have trouble opening the case!

    TerryChang -

    An update. After months of living with my dead battery (iSclack would not work for me), I decided to use the provided suction cup, and surprise - it worked! LOL, so much for the iSclack tool! In any case, I followed the instructions and though it was a bit difficult (too small parts, too fat fingers, aging eyes), I was able to replace the battery. The battery removal was a bear, but with patience (and the use of an expired credit card as my lever), it did come out. Replacement of the adhesive strips was a puzzle - I eventually installed it "backwards" (removal hole in the tab on the left vs right) but this should not affect anything. Phone is charging now and preliminary testing of the home button/digitizer seem to be working. Once fully charged I'll do a full test on the phone to ensure I put things together correctly, but THANK YOU iFixIt for these instructions!

    TerryChang -

    I faced the same issue. My 5S wouldn't open with the iSclack. Had to use the suction cup instead. Even then, I wrestled with it for a whole 30 minutes.. Apparently my 5S is one sticky beast.

    Daylen -

    Firstly do not just watch the video if you are going to do the battery replacement. I was too busy and stupid and only watched the video and boogered my Girlfiends 5S with the screw replacement boon doggle... You must read the iFix full instructions (forget the video) or you will screw it up!.. It is not necessary to take the screen completely off. I did my 5 that was and assumed the 5S had a different protocol for a reason. It doesn't require removing the creen at all. I was careful on my 5 and had no problem. I took different prcautions and watched only the video and screwed up a perfectly good 5S... This means if your not backed up you just lost all your contacts and messages videos etc.... iFix is cool except their Video is not concise like the long instructions they provide. I was stupid and figured I new what i was doing after doing a couple other batteries and bingo I screwed it...

    yaterbob -

    Before embarking on this task, be sure you don't simply have built-up lint in the lightening port. I found that with a needle and some very CAREFUL workmanship removing lint/debris from the base of the port was what was ailing my machine.

    mark40 -

    Before embarking on this, remember to order some new replacement sticky adhesive strips, as these do not come with the replacement battery. I didn’t realise this until I had removed the battery. I just replaced it without and have crossed my fingers!

    debsmcd6 -

    As to my comment above, I had to order them and fit them to the battery as it was moving around inside!

    debsmcd6 -

    There is no need to over tape the screen; one strip is enough if wider to make a full cover. My screen was super fragmented and it worked beautifully with just one layer of tape.

    Andre Silva -

    I didn’t have packing tape, because my kids apparently found it and used it all up. But I have Scotch tape and a 3M Command hook and that worked.

    Justin Evans -

    I would never use a phone in that condition until I replace the screen.

    guardian10 -

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    • In the following steps you will be pulling the display up out of the phone body. The display is composed of a glass screen and a plastic bezel with metal clips.

    • Regardless of the tool you use, you need to be sure you pull up the entire display.

    • If the glass begins to separate from the plastic, as shown in the first image, slide a plastic opening tool between the plastic frame and the metal phone body to pry the metal clips out of the case.

    • If you are reassembling a phone with a separated display bezel, you may want to place a thin strip of adhesive between the plastic bezel and the glass to keep the phone closed.

    can this separation makes the screen stop working

    bassam_shallak92 -

    In my experience, dust particles have entered the screen, and partially ruins the wiewing experience, but this far the screen still works

    Iver søbakk -

    If the screen spilt and half is still stuck in the phone (clips broke and came out), how do I get the rest of the display panel up? It appears stuck, almost glued down.

    Shara Nelson -

    I was attempting to replace the battery on a phone that had been dropped once to create a dent in the top right corner, which pushed out the screen a tiny bit in that region, but not enough to break or render it non-functional. That all changed when I attempted to open my phone. I have a 5s and I had a friend’s broken SE that I was practicing on. I did not realize that either the construction of the screen is different, or that the dent in my phone would be that much of a problem. When I opened my phone, the top of the screen popped up almost immediately…. without the plastic bevel. It took a bit to get the bottom part open, but the plastic bevel in the top part was still stuck in the frame. I panicked and closed everything, but the screen was popped out from the frame even more and now when I turn on the phone, the screen has a green tint and won’t respond to touch :’(

    Zhian Kamvar -

    For reassembly, it is important to insert the upper end (the end opposite from the home button) in first, then pop the rest of the display assembly down into place. The upper end has protrusions which go beneath a metal lip. If done in the opposite (wrong) order, the upper end will not allow itself to be pushed down in place and will sit unevenly higher than the other end.

    Steve Bayes -

    I was replacing my 5s screen due to a cracked screen. I had used packing tape on it to keep the bits from falling apart while I waited for the replacement part, however, the tape limited my ability to use the suction cup for removal. After several tries I was able to get a firm attachment, however, the result was that the glass was being pulled up without the plastic rim. After several failed attempts of using plastic opening tools to wedge between the frame and the phone body, I ended up using an exacto-knife (a Stanley knife) based on another commenters suggestion. I knew I might end up scraping the metal but nothing else was thin enough to work. This approach totally worked for me so that I could get the frame lifted just enough to slide in plastic cards and wedges until I could switch over to the plastic opening tools. Luckily there are only very minor nicks (hardly even visible) on the metal. Thank you to that commenter, otherwise am not sure I could’ve done it.

    JW McAteer -

    Some articles show removal of the SIM card holder. Is this necessary?

    D Williams

    Dec 26/ 2019

    Don Williams -

    From the Step 13 photos, it would appear that removing the SIM card holder isn’t necessary on the 5s. However, for many mobile phones it IS a necessary step. If you do a lot of mobile phone repair, it’s a good habit to take out the SIM card holder to prevent damage.

    Eric Young -

    What adhesive is recommended for a separated display bezel? iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement mentions that adhesive was only used for 2020 iPhone SE, not the 1st Generation. I haven’t found any other resource on replacing the 1st gen bezel adhesive.

    Jeff Lawshe -

    I didn’t realize there was a plastic bezel, how do I remove it?

    Nas -

    Kleine opmerking: correct Nederlands voor “plasticen frame” is “plastic frame” of ”plastieken kader”. Verder prima geschreven handleiding hoor.

    flitsdoortstad -

    Thanks voor het scherpe oog en de opmerking! We hebben het aangepast! Volgende keer kun je het echter ook zelf doen als een dergelijke fout tegenkomt! :)

    Thomas Keulemans -

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    • The next two steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down two steps for an alternate method.

    • For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.

    • Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.

    • Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.

    • Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone just above the home button—one on the front, and one on the back.

    • Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.

    • If the surface of your iPhone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use the included tape pad to create a grippier surface.

    DO NOT USE THIS METHOD. If the glue holding the glass to the screen assembly is weak, the force from the suction cup will pull the glass straight off. Instead, use a very thin flat metal tool to slide under the front face (carefully between the plastic edge strip and the metal case) and pry up. This is not only easier, but it is also a far safer method.

    Izaac Post -

    Thank you very much, however already used the suction cup and it came much easier than expected... Then snapped the home cable on my wife's phone... Now I have to replace that...

    Thomas Hallberg -

    This tool is worth its weight in gold to make opening the case without breaking things very easy. Highly recommend using it. I needed to use the little blue plastic pry bar tool on one side of the case to get the glass and frame to release from the back.

    Magnus Dalen -

    I used this tool on 2 successful screen replacements - BUT on the third time, the force did in fact separate the glass from the plastic, so I'd suggest inspecting first, and using with care.

    Andrew -

    This is the third repair using the iSclack it didn't have enough force to lift the face. I used the flat tool to help separate it. Thanks to those who warned against this tool due to pulling the glass face loose. I didn't think of that.

    ldavis -

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    • Pull the blue handle forwards to lock the arms.

    • Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.

    • Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

    • Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.

    • If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, rotate the handle a quarter turn.

    • Don't crank more than a quarter turn at a time and wait a few seconds between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.

    • Skip the next two steps.

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    • If you don't have an Anti-Clamp, use a single suction cup to lift the front panel:

    • Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the cup is completely on the screen to get a tight seal.

    My phone was too shattered to grip with my "Pump'itup" iFixit suction cup, and the method of adding packing tape over the display did not work either (still too lumpy). I ended up epoxying two 5" x 3/4" pieces of wood trim strips directly to the face of the phone, avoiding the Home switch and any seams, and positioning the wood to overhang the phone by ~2 inches. After 30 minutes of setting, I was able to lift up on the overhanging wood strips and pop the face of the phone out of the housing.

    cpwittenberg -

    Use a Stanley knife to push in between the back housing and the frame in the bottom left and corner and gently leaver up.

    Much easier Than using suction cup but may slight scratch the frame or housing.

    Craig Matthews -

    I suspect that the age of the phone and accident that caused cracks make this method possible for some people. My mom's phone was only a month or so old and the suction cup only caused the screen to raise slightly. There was certainly no crack I could squeeze a spudger into. I just superglued the suction cup onto the screen in the end, which was very effective.

    Caroline Russell -

    Removed board. I ended up with a small shiny metal plate. Shown clearly in the above last posted photos just under the power button switch. Where does this goes?

    Malcolm -

    I was wondering the same thing. Did you ever figure out where this goes?

    paul -

    This has probably been replied to, but see step 31 :) Should be re installed with the pokey out bits pointing down.

    daveoline -

    Can someone please help me. I went through all of the steps and now my phone screen is all white and I can't see anything.

    Lukeapple1414 -

    First try a hard reset by holding down both the power button and the home button at the same time for at least 10 seconds. If that doesn't work, get back inside the phone and reseat the connectors. If the problem persists, either you received a bad part, or the part was damaged during installation.

    iGuys -

    My screen was too broken and the suction cup would not stick. I too a piece of Gorilla duct-tape and stuck it to itself and then also to the screen so that it made a "Tab" that I could pull up on. This worked much better than the suction cup.

    Nathan -

    @malcom @paul if you are referring to step 31 the plate needs to be placed as it comes out on the picture. Long flat part towards the top of the casing with the tab facing the right.

    hari -

    In my case, i found it easier to remove the sim - not sure if this was a placebo effect, but there you go!

    also, there is a rubber seal around the screen - my experience is it should stay of the display, not on the main body.

    Robert Colvin -

    The amount of force I applied to open the case using the suction cup manually ended up tearing out the home button cable...ripping it in the process. Goodbye TouchID...see you next generation T_T

    I would definitely recommend buying a stupid iSclack. I don't know why they'd even present the suction cup as an option. Maybe the 5S opens more easily when it's new. Now I need to decide between dropping more money on a new home button (and iSclack this time) or just hold out with the software home button.

    johnsonjohnr -

    Just lift slightly using the suction cup and on the bottom edge of the screen over to the left you'll see a slight gap open up just enough to get the spudger in. Don't use the suction cup to release the entire display assembly, just work around the edge with a spudger. This also helps clear some of the dirt build up.

    daveoline -

    My battery had swollen enough to start pushing the display out. I was concerned that the glass and frame would separate during removal but using the standard suction cup and lots of work with the spludger (two person job) I got the screen out ok. I expected to have to re-attach the glass the the frame before reassembly but it went back together fine. I used a cable tie to avoid yanking the home button cable.

    Kevin Patfield -

    This happened to me too, with iPhone SE 1st Generation. You have to pull so hard that ripping the home cable seems inevitable. iSlack solved the opening problem. I don’t think iFixit should even suggest using a suction cap alone to open the iPhone SE 1st generation.

    John Messenger -

    I too tried the suction cup - worthless on cracked an only pulled off the many layers of packing tape applied as suggested. Used edge of utility knife to pry it up, then helper placed another blade underneath until I could pry it open. Great suggestion I read elsewhere, and only way I could get cover off.

    I too skipped step 25. Definitely requires patience! Screen replacement was successful, but noticeable degradation in screen clarity/color from the original is somewhat disappointing. At half the price of OEM repair, would probably do it again though.

    matttaylor -

    If other people have this issue, I would try supergluing a screen protector over the old screen - leave a wide margin around the edges, home key, ear speaker. You could even just cut a piece of the protector into a square, or get a rectangle of shipping tape, the glued down portion needn't cover the whole screen. Then, glue the suction cup on top of the glued down screen protector or tape. I suggest this over the utility knife because it seems like the knife method would at the very least scratch up and nick the frame.

    Caroline Russell -

    i did this now i'm having a hard time putting the metal bracket back on :(

    sineglabs -

    1) Set suction cup off-center & pry up a corner instead of trying to yank open the whole thing. Wrap fingers around the entire phone while pulling so you don't inadvertently pull the display too far off.

    2) Use a spudger, credit card, or guitar pick to pry it up once you have enough room to do so - don't pull any more than necessary.

    3) There's a thin rubber edge around the entire display that might separate & stick to the bottom section. It should stay with the phone.

    4) Reassembly: There are small plastic tabs on the top edge that you need to properly reseat in order to fully close the phone.

    seijihuzz01 -

    We got this to work. Some patience required, but absolutely doable. Our new iFixit suction cup did nothing, but a random one around the house worked fine. Just be patient and work it gently up, this use an opening tool or exacto blade to get into the seem once it comes up. Really quite doable. I'm glad I didn't spend 25 bucks on the fancy tool (a must for repeat use, I'm sure). But don't be deterred by the negatives above. Just go slow.

    Chris Twomey -

    I.did not read all the comments so I hope this isn’t redundant but my screen was too damaged to provide the air tonight seal that any suction device would need. The ifixit #3 flat head prayed the top out very easily. YMMV but I wouldn’t even try any other method before attempting to push the flat head down between the case and the glass. I thought it might bend the case out just a little causing a slight cosmetic damage but I have a rotective case that covers that anyway so who cares. Incidentally the case protected it from a lot of falls but not from gettin run over by my truck. A Prius once, but not the truck

    Bill Pennock -

    Oh and if you think this step is hard wait till you get to the screws on the home key or sliding the bracket back over the Touch ID cable connector. That is where the real problems are

    Bill Pennock -

    Single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

    Bryan Solo -

    I agree but I found that I had to put screen cleaning fluid under the suction cup to get a strong enough seal. Also every time the suction cup slipped I had to turn the phone back off again!

    Micky McGuinness -

    I concur with Bryan’s post. The suction cup that was included with the toolkit that came with my battery wouldn’t hold to the screen when I pulled on it (the rubber was pretty soft, and the surface not smooth - not at all like the suction cup shown in the pictures of this guide). Fortunately I have a suction cup with a hook used typically for hanging things on the wall of a shower that held on quite tight that did the job - in fact, I had to use the point of the spudger to get under the edge of the suction cup to get it to release. I also used the zip tie trick someone else posted for making sure the screen didn’t open too far before disconnecting the home button cable, but it wasn’t necessary - I got the screen lifted with enough control that the cable was never in danger.

    stuart40plus -

    Suction cup supplied by ifixit worked for me. Of course I used all the tricks mentioned previously: Zip ties, work on one corner at a time, and work slowly - don’t expect it to pop out easily/quickly.

    Don Libes -

    Getting cocky after replacing a display screen and battery in a 6S i-Phone, I decided to open up my own -Phone SE and replace the old battery with a new one. I used one of the flip lever suction cup devices and it worked so well, that the display screen popped open so far that the Home Button Cable was torn off from the Home Button Assembly. I followed the instructions for re-assembly, but the damage was done. Lesson learned…read the Repair Guide before starting a repair!

    Peter Bovey -

    Suction cup for itself did not work for me. Then, I used a double face tape on it, and it worked nice (don’t try to remove the suction cup until you have fully unplugged the screen though). The suction cup should be used only to make a little gap for the other tools (spudger and that one which is blue). Sorry for the all caps, but ‘PULL THE SCREEN VERY SLOWLY’ (many people here commented there was a failure in this spet even being cautious).

    Andre Silva -

    I liked the idea of using an iSclack to pull on both sides at the same time but didn’t want to spend the money for one. Instead, I used the suction cup that attaches my GPS to the windshield of my car, attached it to the front and then attached the small suction cup provided with the tool kit to the back of my iPhone. Pulling both in opposite directions worked perfectly to pull the case open with minimal effort and no surprises.

    Gregory White -

    Instead of a ring handle like in the photo, the suction cup in my repair kit had a blue, plastic L-shaped handle with the vertical leg of the L offset from the center of the cup. Like others I used zip ties and placed the cup to the left of the home button and had the vertical leg of the L oriented toward the bottom of the phone. Patience is the key.

    Gary Grinstead -

    This is a lot easier if you take advantage of the fact that the coefficient of expansion is different between the metal case and the innards. On my second battery replacement, I heated a wet washcloth in the microwave, put it in a plastic bag, and laid the phone on it. Voila! Cracked the phone open almost like opening a refrigerator door!

    Dorothy Campbell -

    Thank you! This worked perfectly and should be added to the official repair guide :)

    Emi Soroka -

    This ⬆︎⬆︎ is excellent advice. I did excactly as Dorothy said. The screen disengaged from the case very easily.

    dbrick -

    Dorothy/dbrick this sounds pretty “logical to me” - Did you lay down the phone on the hot washcloth backside down - or did you wrap

    it around the phone? The idea is to expand the metal case while the glass of the screen does not follow the expansion. Not sure …

    Oberschrauber -

    Well Well her we are Ifixit saved some money with the suction cup pure junk great job guys! Who had this great idea? give him a big raise! The one in the picture is a much beter one, nice trick! You must have the Isclack tool !

    John Tourangeau -

    Oh what a pain in the neck this was. The suction cup is a hit or miss thing. But if you press down on it all over (center, edges, and the in between part) then it will stick reasonably firmly about 1 try out of every 5. When I did that, on the "good" tries, I was able to get the screen to move a tiny bit, not enough to put in the spudger. There was enough space for a utility knife blade to stick in, though it was a 2 person, 3 handed operation. I pulled the screen up (a fraction of a millimeter) and got another person to slip the knife into the crack while I was pulling. Then I was able to use the knife to get 1 corner of the screen opened enough to use the spudger the rest of the way. @flannelist gave very helpful encouragement in the Q&A forum. Anyway I still have the rest of the steps to go, so let's hope they are easier.

    paul -

    i am out $600 (and am VERY angry) because what should have been obvious to point out here was not. had i read the comments in this section before proceeding this may not have happened. yes, of COURSE you need to wrap a zip tie around the phone to prevent it from opening too far. prying on the case and pulling hard with the suction cup will undoubtedly result in the cover snapping open and, given the laws of physics (momentum) will cause it to open too far and pull out the connector. i can't be certain that was why my phone did not work after replacing the battery (as it did before starting) but it's a good guess. thanks a lot!

    mark phillips -

    The suction cup worked too well in my case. The display assembly popped right out and a ribbon cable appeared to come completely disconnected from the home button. I proceeded with the rest of the battery replacement and think it all went as it should have, but now my device doesn't indicate that it's receiving a charge when plugged in, and no combination of pushing or holding the home and sleep/wake buttons does anything. My phone was well on its way to brick status, but this one slip-up seemed to secure it.

    JCR -

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    • The front panel is attached with clips, and there are several ribbon cables connecting it to the rest of the phone. Your goal here is to release the clips and open the phone only enough to disconnect the cables. Go slowly and carefully to avoid damage.

    • Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly near the home button.

    • While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the home button end of the front panel from the rear case.

    • With a plastic opening tool, gently pry the edges of the rear case down, away from the front panel assembly, while you pull up with the suction cup.

    • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The front panel assembly is a much tighter fit than on most other devices.

    Seriously consider the isclack. I have a lot of experience working with much more valuable equipment than a phone, and I had read all the precautions... but I broke the cable anyways. The isclack is specifically designed to open the phone but only wide enough to get the clips out, while saving your home button cable.

    llcoreyll -

    Agreed. The suction cup method shouldn't be mentioned. I'm also extremely delicate with electronics and gently opening the display with a single suction cup is essentially impossible. The spudger needs to do all the work.

    idmadj -

    Agreed, I really wish I had paid extra to buy the isclack. Didn’t because I thought that I could be careful—that iFixIt provided just the suction and it would take a few days to get the extra tool. Take the time. Its not worth it.

    Thought I was extremely careful—absolutely no movement or pull. Then pop. Pulled home button cord right out of its socket. Buying a new phone later today. The extra few days and additional cash would have totally been worth it.

    Timothy Fry -

    Found it very easy to do with a single suction cup, just wiggle and pry.

    emiserry -

    It may help to position the suction cup off-center and pull up one corner first.

    Rosemary McNaughton -

    Yes, I had problems initially (with the suction cup placed just above the home button) but placing it in the left corner did the trick.

    Brian Riess -

    Avoid spudgers, guitar picks, and other weird inventions, just use your fingernails. That way you can feel what's happening, and you won't accidentally slide them in and break something. They won't break the plastic rim thingy either, in contrast with spudgers. That's what fingernails evolved to do, so just use them.

    Konrad Tlatlik -

    Lol. Evolved fingernails to open phones.

    Chal Miller -

    Wrap a zip-tie loosely around the phone to avoid pulling the cover too far off and breaking the ribbon cable.

    Thor Lancaster -

    Thank you for the zip tie suggestion!

    W Fleming -

    YES - the loose zip-tie is the answer. This gives you the confidence to exert the force you need to pull the cover up. And you do need a bit of force!

    Jeremy Rodwell -

    Zip tie is a brilliant suggestion. Very robust and safe way to pull the phone apart--I had mine wrapped just above the home button and kept the case from opening beyond about 1/8 of an inch.

    bartonh -

    Used the suction cup and only my screen came up. Looks as though the screen delaminated from its black aluminum mounting tray. The home button stayed with the tray as well. Any ideas?

    Kyle Rogers -

    I got the battery and fitting kit from ifixit. the blue plastic levers that were included were not up to the job as the blade just bent when any pressure was applied. carefully using my own screwdrivers completed the task.

    adrt -

    We disagree with the naysayers. Patient use of the suction cup worked for us. The iFixit one didn't do it (it looked a bit deformed out of the box. But a random kids toy worked fine. Nothing fancy. Don't rush. Use an exacto as it starts to come up to slide in to the crevice. After that, works pretty well.

    Chris Twomey -

    The Jimmy tool worked for me. Managed to slide it in and twist slightly to pop the screen off without too much force.

    leeprobert -

    ifixit's sucktion cup and blue opening tool worked very well for me. I used the suction cup just enough to get the opening tool into a gap and gently pry out the clips. I'm glad that the display didn't give way too easily otherwise I might have damaged a cable. I wish I had read the zip tie comment first though.

    Scott Watson -

    ifixit's suction cup and blue opening tool worked well for me. Like the zip tie suggestion as a precaution.

    Erik Osborn -

    during reassembly, screen cracked worse than screen i was replacing!!

    Valerie Egan -

    Yup - I did the same thing… The top corner of the encasement was slightly bent from when I had dropped the phone and where the screen cracked originally. I didn’t notice it right away and when I went to “snap” the screen back down into place during reassembly, it wasn’t quite a perfect fit, and when I tried to press it into place, I cracked the new screen. Note to self - “check for small dents in the encasement and try to fix before trying to tighten down the screen”. The new cracked screen is still better than the one that I was replacing. I feel so dumb. Chalk it up to a rookie mistake I guess. Hopefully this little write up saves someone else from making the same mistake.

    Christopher Flynn -

    I also broke the screen (after replacing the battery). When closing up the screen, insert the top of the screen first, then lay the phone face down on a flat surface and apply pressure from the back of the phone. It worked for me…

    stopsurfing -

    This is a great idea! Works for me too!

    JC Alice -

    This comment definitely should be in the guide!! It is an awesome hint.

    Andre Silva -

    Yes, hooking the top part of the phone in first seems to be pretty important. Also the plastic rim had broken and detached, which made pressing the screen back in even harder. Laying the phone face down to press the screen back in that way probably saved me from breaking it. Major upvote on this comment.

    Leigh Martin -

    Zip-tie is an excellent idea which I used in 1 repair. Also using a single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

    Bryan Solo -

    Use some tape to limit how far the screen will open. I used wide packing tape, stuck it to the bottom of the display, where the home button is, and to the opposite side, on the back. It left a loop of tape, front to back, around the bottom of the phone, that had about an inch of slack. This allowed the display to pop off completely without any danger to the home button cable. No prying required.

    Michal Pawlowski -

    YES! I was just about to suggest this as I tore the home cable even though I was really careful opening it.

    Arthur Shi -

    The tape suggestion worked great! I used the suction cup, and the tape limited how far the display lifted once the snaps released. I’m sure I would have ripped the cable without this. No need to buy the iSlack to do this (if you have a suction cup)

    spyder13b -

    What worked extremely easy for me was I used a utility knife to score on the joint below the home button. The blade went in easy then lightly pried the screen up then followed up the rest of the way with the ifixit opening tool. I’m sure the ifixit Jimmy tool would work as well, instead of the utility knife.

    Scott Nacke -

    I wish I’d looked at the comments here before I tore the home button cable. I was trying to be careful and not to rip it but it just got away from me. Now I’ve ordered the replacement part…

    Graham Agnew -

    The glass of my screen went off at first and there was also a black plastic frame that I managed to peel off as well.

    At first I didn’t notice that the metal bracket didn’t come off. It was a bit of a struggle to lift the metal bracket.

    Wolfgang Bauer -

    Wish I’d read through these first.

    Used the suction cup but went too far when the display finally popped loose pulling the home button cable off the main board. Hope it was only the cable that was damaged - will try a replacement home button.

    Limiting the display’s travel with tape or a zip tie is an excellent idea !!!

    Leonard -

    I used the suction cup, but used a long screwdriver through the pull-ring help up with books either side piled to just lift the phone of the worksurface when I started to apple downward force on the phone. Meant that I could be more confident applying force as, if it did go suddenly, the phone would only travel the distance down to the surface. Had to add a few books as I hadn’t allowed for them compressing as I applied force.

    Peter Whitworth -

    This works SO well. I used this method, and it didn’t require much force to get one corner revealed to get the pry tool in there. After that it was smooth sailing. I had to reopen the phone a couple times to fix some things, and I was never nervous using this method. Thanks so much for the idea!!!!

    Colton Miller -

    We used the little suction cup the Ifixit supplies in the repair kit, NOT the iSclack. It took many attempts, patience, and two people working together, but ultimately we succeeded. Here are a few tips: soak the suction cup in very hot (just boiled) water for 5-10 minutes to get it really warm and pliable. As one person holds the phone and pulls up on the suction cup, the other should work the blue opening tool at the first sign of the display assembly starting to lift from the phone. Many times the suction cup would pop off but we kept heating the cup, resticking, and working it until we finally opened it. We used the cable tie suggestion above as well to be sure the phone would not open too far and this saved us when it finally popped free. Remember to work the clips on the side as well once you have a gap. Honestly, this took the most patience of all 62 steps! (Yes, there are 62 steps…only 54 more to go!)

    James M. Day -

    I could not exert enough force using the suction cup that came with iFixit battery replacement kit

    to pull the bottom of the screen away from the case. However, an X-acto knife inserted between the

    screen and the bottom edge of the case near the left corner allowed me to lift the screen sufficie

    ntly to insert a stiffer blade (a tiny screwdriver). Lifting further with the stiffer blade I was

    able to complete the separation by sliding the edge of a credit card along the bottom and sides of

    the screen. A plectrum would have worked as well. Using a knife blade eliminates the risk of dama

    ging the home-button cable.

    JPF -

    They really should include tips like a zip tie to prevent over opening and tearing the home button cable. Now I need to replace my home button.

    Lisa Jakubowsk -

    This step definitely scared me the most after reading all the comments, but with a helper this proved fairly simply. Using two suction cups I pried the case apart from the corner (not directly above the home button), just enough to barely fit the plastic opening tool into the notch. Unless you have 3 hands. Once in, you can release the tension from the suction cups, and simply pry the case open with the tool, to a satisfying pop.

    I used the zip tie trick, which is a clever idea. I don’t think it was necessary, but I would probably use this precaution again.

    Peter Spiegel -

    Patience is the key. At first I tried holding the phone in my hand and pulling on the suction cup. I finally put the phone on the table (like the instructions say…..duh) held the base in one hand while pulling on the suction cup with the other. I was getting movement but not enough to use the prying tool. After a bit of this I ran a razor blade along the bottom of the phone between the screen and the bottom casing. This broke whatever seal had built up between the two and the screen soon came off enough to use the prying tool.

    Gary Grinstead -

    In another guide there was a reference to the screen being pulled away from its frame? This was happening to me, so used very small amounts of superglue between screen and frome, applied using a cocktail stick. Left it for 24 hours. Worked fine.

    Wayne -

    I would echo most of these comments. I tried to be very careful, but still managed to pop up the display (it was very tight indeed), severing not only the home button but, as I later discovered, a cable at the other end of the phone.

    Really, get the proper tool.

    Ian Harris -

    razor blade: 1 min

    suction cup and other nonsense: 20 mins with zero progress

    Jordan Brennan -

    I used the iFixit kit (2019) with suction  cup. It worked perfectly fine. Absolutely imperative—USE A ZIPTIE (or one of the other suggestions such as box tape). It’s cumbersome to handle the phone and you might become preoccupied with positioning your hands that you apply an unmeasured amount of force.

    I wasn’t sure what to expect. Suction cup in place, plastic opening tool on the edge. As I adjusted hand position and applied force, BAM! the screen just popped up, and was saved by a ziptie.

    xtian -

    I had no problem using suction cup - put zip tie around phone just in case, but by slowly using plastic pry tool and pulling gently on suction cup from lower left side of phone, it separated quite easily. Keep prying around edges slowly so that you don’t get a big release.

    Patrick Pedersen -

    I pulled to dar when I did it, but got lucky and it only disconnected the cable right where i would have anyway. Everything seems to work fine but maybe there's damage and I dont know it. Anything to check?

    foyboy84 -

    I read about the zip tie precaution but as I didn’t have any in the house i just went on using the suction cup without any protection.. and in fact the phone snapped open at one point and the home button cable bracket flew away, as the cable separated from the socket… I imagined the worst happened but as the cable was still intact I wanted to check if for a miracle there wasn’t any damage, so I reconnected the home button to its socket and turned on the phone (still with the case open)… and I must had just consumed all my yearly luck subscription because everything worked fine including Touch ID!! So if you experience a situation similar to mine where the home button cable is still intact, give it a shot reconnecting and testing it before you order a replacement!

    JustATestAccount -

    This guide is flawed on this important point.

    I don’t see the point of posting a guide that doesn’t work.

    Other than the fact that i bought a fix it kit…

    It’s rattled my confidence in ifixit guides………….

    iain macleod -

    I’m not sure why you completely fail to mention the tool slot in the bottom left corner of the display? There’s a little slot here so once you get the screen open a little you can get a tool in and prise it open the rest of the way. I’m also not sure how people are destroying the touch ID cable here, it’s sensitive electronic equipment, so care and a bit of common sense is obviously required here. You have about 3cm leeway anyway, which I found was more than adequate. The display may stick a little at first, with years of accumulated dirt in my case, but with a bit of patience and gradually working away at it, it will release. Don’t be nervous and think you need an expensive tool like the iSclack, you really don’t. Just be really careful and don’t rush things.

    Jody -

    If you’re using the suction handle instead of the iSclack, I’d recomment tying a band around the bottom end of the iPhone to create a physical stop to prevent the front pulling away too far. Maybe something like a couple of tough rubber bands or a shoelace wrapped around two or three times with enough give to allow you to pull up the front, but to stop the it flying open if you pulled just a little too hard.

    I think a band of some kind like that should be included in the kit, it would be an inexpensive solution that allows people to use the cheaper suction handle but still safeguard the touch ID cable.

    Takako Jin -

    The suction cup of my Pro Tech Toolkit neither worked on tape nor screen, so I took the blade of my titanium scissors, pressed it against the side of the screen and lifted it while trying to find my third hand to put a spudger into the opening gap. This worked well in the end, but be careful.

    This step should also include hints about putting the new screen into its place. I was happy to press mine gently into the frame from edge to edge, feeling it bend but not break.

    sven -

    Suction cup does not work at all. I feel cheated. I will be taking the screen to a repair shop.

    cris@theworld.com -

  8. rY6BhWkLqkcXGlE1
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    • Do not try to completely remove the front panel assembly from the rear case, as there are several delicate ribbon cables connecting them.

    • Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.

    • Remove the suction cup from the screen.

    Cracked my screen using the supplied suction cup. Had to apply clear packing tape to screen to very patiently finish the job. However, now I need a new screen. How nice :-(

    Scott Stathis -

    I added a double face tape in the suction cup to make it work, and then, I did not try to remove it until I had unplugged the screen. It was inconvenient not being able to work with the screen in a horizontal position when removing the ‘home button’ but it wasn’t also the end of the world.

    Andre Silva -

    To reassemble, make sure you slide the little counterparts on the top of the display under the phone’s frame first. See this answer: Screen won't close tight after reassembly. To close the display after that, I simply turned the device around (on a cloth) and pushed down on the frame with a lot of pressure. Much better than trying to close each edge individually by hand.

    ursbraem -

    This operation went fine in my case, but I was concerned with what seemed like a lot of necessary force to get the supplied suction cup to adhere to the screen - I didn’t want to crack the glass. After a few unsuccessful tries, I did finally moisten the suction cup and it stuck solidly. I was also surprised that some careful prying was needed to get the screen to release.

    Ed Austin -

    I ripped the cable. Now I need a new phone. aghhh

    Tymon Van Diemen -

  9. rRQZfUrTYmbRYwR3
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    • Open the phone just enough to reveal the metal bracket covering the home button cable.

    • Do not open the phone too far or you risk damaging the home button cable, or the socket it plugs into. Keep the cable loose—if it is stretched taut, that's too far.

    • Only the phone's original home button assembly will be capable of using the Touch ID functionality. If you rip the cable, installing a new home button will only restore ordinary home button functions, not the Touch ID features.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to push the bracket free and remove it with tweezers.

    • The next two steps apply to reassembly. Skip them and continue to Step 12 until reassembly.

    I had put some what more pressure to suck and sensor cable got detached from upper part(display) , now what shall i do , how to fix it ?

    Nikunj -

    Is the touch ID bracket really important or have any use ? I forgot to put it back… Is it going to malfunction ?

    John Doe -

    mine did not appear to have a bracket.. I am wondering too if this is going to mess with it?

    Donna Godfrey -

    It's there to keep it firmly in place.

    Didier Daniel -

    My bracket popped out when I opened the screen too far, so if you can’t see the bracket, look around inside your phone. it might be hiding out.

    lucy -

    Mine also doesn't seem to have a bracket. Plus the cable unclipped itself when the screen shot free - yikes. Looks OK though. I guess I'll find out soon enough.

    Gabe -

    I wrapped a velcro tie loosely around the phone so it wouldn't open up too far. (or could use a zip tie) Then while holding the screen down with one hand, I pulled the suction cup up with the other hand, using gradual pressure. while using a "wiggeling" upward pressure, I concentrated on raising the left side of the screen, which gradually started to loosen up. then I concentrated on the lower left corner until I had enough of a gap to work in the the flat surface of the plastic tool. I then pried on this corner. The screen then popped up without stressing the home button cable.

    Harry

    Harry Jones -

    Genius. Pure genius.

    Aiden -

    This worked extremely well. Thank you! I used the tail of the zip tie as a nub to help hold down the phone while doing what you described. The left side of my phone opened easily but I had to use a combination of spunger and X-acto blade to free the end and right side.

    Once opened I placed the same plastic sponger just under the screen from one side to the other to hold it up to access home button cable.

    Daniel

    dleyes -

    This technique is fantastic.

    Boyd Waters -

    I found that when replacing the plate/cover, a pair of needle nosed tweezers held the plate by the 2 holes rather than by the edges (it jumped out repeatedly). I have taken a picture but need to upload it if its required? I also found that taking the new battery out of it's wrapper once out the box has to be done very carefully as the ribbon cable caught on the wrapper so be warned...

    andy -

    DITCH THE BRACKET! It's unnecessary, as the cable will never come loose under ordinary use. The bracket is also a danger in that if you open the case too far, the TouchID cable could break; without the bracket the cable will detach. Finally, reattaching that bracket is a nightmare. My wife, who drops her phone a lot and requires several new screens a year, has never had her bracket-free cable come lose.

    Max Powers -

    God bless you! My bracket flew off & vanished into thin air. I actually spent more time searching for it than replacing the battery. Everything seems to function without it- but your post (and your wife’s experience) puts my mind at ease. Thanks~

    madriverlauri -

    You say you have to use the original home button. But what is the button "bound" to? The motherboard?

    Iver søbakk -

    Yep. Bound to the phone CPU.

    Michael Walker -

    When I lifted my screen during this step, the metal LCD shield plate did not come out with the screen. Very confusing. I needed to carefully pry around the shield plate's side notches, just inside the walls of the iPhone's back, in order to lift it out. Required a trifle bit more force than I anticipated.

    Zac Imboden -

    I’m already limited to using a touch screen home button. (physical home button stopped responding but fingerprint works) Would this take away that functionality of my on screen home button? does this affect the fingerprint security feature?

    Kris704 -

    I used the 5S battery kit that iFixit shipped me and attached the suction cup to the screen and gently started pulling to lift the screen. It lifted revealing a very slight crack and I used the spudger tool with the suction cup still lifting away gently and it opened more. At no point did I see any home button cable???

    When the screen came off more I continued to follow all the other instructions and have got to step 23 … I see no battery adhesive tab???

    Just loads of black electrical tape blending in with the battery seal. So now I have no clue how to complete taking the battery out?

    Completely bummed at this point….

    Alun Williams -

    Sounds like you’ve got an iPhone 5. This guide is for the 5s. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Be forewarned: make sure you really really want that new battery or display replacement, because you are VERY likely to lose your Touch ID feature on your phone after taking this step. It is extremely sensitive. The front of the bracket is the point of tension that holds it in place. In my case, as I carefully used the spudger to release the bracket, the released tension shot the bracket out of the phone and the Touch ID cable popped out of its socket with it. This gave me a start but I inspected both parts and they appeared to be fine. I finished the battery replacement, and put the cable back in place only to discover: no Touch ID. Even after I re-opened the phone two more times and finally figured out how to properly reseat the bracket, Touch ID was gone. Judging by this experience the Touch ID cable/pins must be insanely sensitive – perhaps one pin was dislodged by a fraction of a millimeter? I can’t say for sure. But sadly after repeated and careful attempts to reseat it, my Touch ID is lost for good. :(

    N B -

    Same here. I thought I was being very careful but ended up damaging something even though everything looked fine. No more TouchID for this old iPhone 5S…

    Michael Walker -

    There’s an easy solution to this step: use hemostats (miniature vice grip). Took me about 10 seconds (after over an hour using various other tools).

    Robert Smith -

    Attention in this part!! I had to put more pressure than I should, then the bracket flew away and the cable also unplugged all together (probably placed the spudger beneath the cable instead of only beneath the bracket). I was lucky nothing bad happened, but I lost total control in this step (it was my only mistake).

    Andre Silva -

    Tape the screen to the case on the sides with some slack to keep the screen from opening too far.

    Nace -

    My screen came out too far and the flexcable got ripped out of the home button :/

    Your solution should be part of the official guide, it’s practical and everyone has tape at home, wish I had it done this way.

    alf -

    Just wedge the sharp end of the forceps between the bracket and the plug and push until the bracket pops open. That way there is no danger of tearing out the entire socket.

    Imre Treufeld -

    One way to easily access the bracket (for removal and for insertion) is to rotate the display around the cable connection horizontally, so that the screen is not above the bracket but rather to the side.

    When disassembling, note that the screen assembly is hinged to the bottom on the edge away from the home button. After first opening the screen to about 30 degrees as above, slide the screen in the direction where the home button was to disengage this hinge (this is the first bullet item in step 13 below). Then rotate to expose the bracket to eyes and tweezers.

    Yishai Sered -

    This metal bracket snaps over the plug, and there appears to be a snap detent on the front of the bracket (side facing the charging port). The first photo for this step show the spudger on the side closest to the battery (above the holes in the bracket). I would recommend pulling up on the side closest to the charging port. Also, as others mentioned, when this releases it will go flying - mine did too.

    Take note of how it’s oriented before you pop it loose - it only goes on one way (can’t be rotated 180 degrees)

    When re-installing the bracket later, I inserted the side closet to the battery first (like the 2nd photo in Step 10 below), then rotated it down (pressing it down). It snaps back in place

    spyder13b -

    completed the operation without any real problems, except the Touch ID cable bracket, which was tricky.

    But when all was together - the phone is dead - no screen - just black even when attached to loading cable.

    I went back in and made sure the battery cable was clicked in, reassembled and have the same problem.

    Rosalind -

    Same here. Did you ever get your device working again?

    JCR -

    Is the photo (step #9, photo #3) wrong? The bracket has a rectangular shape. On one of the shorter sides (of the rectangle), the rectangle is ‘open’. Shouldn’t this be the route for the cable?

    xtian -

    xtian, I see what you mean, but I replaced the bracket as in the picture, with the open side to the left, and the cable exited the bracket naturally, without problems.

    Elizabeth Simon -

    STEPS 9-12 need a re-working - Re-assembly instructions should be put just under the disassembly instructions so that when you scroll back up the page, you’re re-assembling in step order ;)

    Ashley Lahm -

    I lifted up the screen really slowly and kept the cable fully slack, but it was in two halves! The bit that folds back is seperate, have I wrecked Touch ID?

    TheRe -

    Help. Is there some trick to getting the home button reconnected? I gave up on reattaching the bracket, but the home button doesn’t work at all because the connection isn’t seated right. This is a problem as you can imagine. This was in the course of a battery replacement. Any tips greatly appreciated.

    Jeanne Bredestege -

    My phone did not have this bracket. Our other SE did.

    Dorothy Campbell -

    Like the first comment, it sprung open and the cable detached from the button. What can I do? How to I re-attach or get a new button with a new cable?

    Robert Venning -

    Dieser Teil ist der schwierigste, Ich habe zig Versuche gebraucht bei denen mir die Klammer immer wieder weggesprungen ist.

    Ich habe insgesammt deutlich über 2 Stunden gebraucht, hauptsächlich weil mir beide Klebestreifen abgerissen waren.

    Warum sind alle Kommentare in der deutschen Anleitung in englisch?

    mit_dt -

    Hallo! Derzeit gibt es noch nicht so viele Kommentare auf deutsch, wir zeigen daher alle Kommentare bei den Anleitungen an, egal in welcher Sprache sie geschrieben wurden, weil es ja trotzdem hilfreich sein kann, sie zu lesen. Du kannst oben rechts im Menü der Sprachauswahl die “machine translation” auf “ON” stellen, dann werden die Kommentare automatisch über Google translate übersetzt. Das ist zwar manchmal nicht so gut verständlich, aber besser als nichts, dachten wir.

    Sandra Hiller -

    The bracket is magnetic. I found it with a pair of large flat magnets from 1980s speaker woofers, but hard drive magnets should work too. It bounced off my lap to a meter away. I should have read comments FIRST.

    keesan -

    Okay, I'm confused. I just read on this site that all iphones post 6 you can use a different cable. Now mind you I have a 1st gen iphone SE, but this is the site that fixes for my phone are sent to... so am I screwed, or not? I have the original home button, so is there anyway to attach the cable off the replacement (OEM) top piece to my own home button? Thanks

    george -

  10. qsjh3vXbpyRLjJj1
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    • During reassembly, you will need to reinstall the Touch ID cable bracket. The top of the bracket needs to slide between the battery and Touch ID cable connector, in front of the metal tab. The bottom must latch down over the connector.

    • Slide the top of the bracket over the Touch ID cable connector from left to right.

    This is the hardest part lol

    Bob smith -

    I concur! I think I need thinner tweezers.

    FierDancr -

    1) Reassembly: Note the orientation, 2 clips toward the battery, 1 clip toward the bottom of the phone. Mine didn't "latch down" or stay in place - it just sort of sat there.

    2) Note that the rest of the bracket this attaches to must be removed from the Lightning Connector assembly & reattached to the new one.

    3) I combined this repair w/replacing the battery, and smashed the bottom of the bracket under the battery/adhesive strips. Careful not to do that, so that you can actually complete this step.

    seijihuzz01 -

    1) Reassembly: Note the orientation, 2 clips toward the battery, 1 clip toward the bottom of the phone.

    Sorry, but I believe this is wrong. Besides, the ‘clip(s)’ is not the important feature here. This bracket has a rectangular footprint, and one of the two shorter sides (of the rectangle) is open. This open side, I believe, is the route for the cable.

    xtian -

    Comment above was made on the Lightning Connector replacement guide - I guess it got pulled over here since as well since the steps are identical ... Anyway careful not to smash the bottom bracket w/the replacement battery or adhesive

    seijihuzz01 -

    That was fun without tweezers :)

    Oscar -

    Even with tweezers (the eyebrow kind) it was still an exercise in extreme calming techniques. I nearly gave up, but after 20 minutes I finally got it to seat and clamp.

    natzulf -

    It is fiddly and access is tight as all the connectors are in place. However, if you approach at the correct angle so that you are looking to latch the connector next to the battery first... Once this is in place and secure then gently push down the front of the bracket over the cable.

    copeconsultancy -

    I think it's the pics and the word 'slide' that throws people off. I tried this around 20 times to 'slide' it on from the left side, and was getting frustrated. My friend came over, laid the cover on the top, and just snapped it down into place. Still the guide had this down for me in 30 minutes even with the 'hardest part' haha and the part from ifixit worked and looked perfect.

    Brent Hillyer -

    After reading the comments I was not looking forward to this step on re-assembly. I agree that the pictures and the instruction to “slide” the bracket into place may be worrisome. But I was able to orient the bracket directly over where it was supposed to go. Then inserted the 2 clips (top) in first and easily and gently snapped the bottom clip into place. Probably spent less than a minute on this part.

    Jere -

    After about 20 minutes I wonder if I could just snap it in place. I did it in about 15 seconds.

    The “slide part and accompanying images are really misleading.

    jpfranc -

    It took me 10 minutes to accomplish this step; 9’:55’’ I spent reading the comments and 0:05’’ plugging the bracket the way you describe. This step step should be edited in this guide. It is definitely misleading people.

    Andre Silva -

    I tried this around 20 times to 'slide' it on from the left side, and was getting frustrated. My friend came over, laid the cover on the top, and just snapped it down into place.

    Tried this and yes, it worked well. Touch ID works.

    Basil Skrnk -

    DITCH THE BRACKET! It's unnecessary, as the cable will never come loose under ordinary use. The bracket is also a danger in that if you open the case too far, the TouchID cable could break; without the bracket the cable will detach. Finally, reattaching that bracket is a nightmare. My wife, who drops her phone a lot and requires several new screens a year, has never had her bracket-free cable come lose.

    Max Powers -

    Not everyone should ditch the bracket just because you did. The bracket is there to keep everything firmly in place.

    Didier Daniel -

    I did finally leave it off. I’m sure if I worked for Foxconn I could snap those on in seconds flat. After 30minutes of trying I figured it would either work or I’d have to spring fo a new phone. It just wasn’t gonna happen for me. Right now it’s working so it’s all about reliability now

    Bill Pennock -

    I'm not so patient, so I finally gave up and ditched the bracket. No problem so far. Anyway, ditch it at your own risk!

    Daniel del Saz -

    On an old 5S, the metal retainer bracket snapped in easily. There was no sliding, the rear edge dropped in straight, it hinged down, and locked almost before I knew it. The lack of a click or any positive feel on this critical connector surprised me a lot. I had to eyeball it with a magnifier to feel sure the ribbon connector was really in its socket. Works perfectly after the replacement, though.

    Jeff Clayton -

    All this time I was trying to put the bracket right next to the battery but that's not right. There's no way the bumps on the metal connector can fit in the slots on the bracket. It's battery, metal connector and then the bracket. So easy. Next time I dismantle an iPhone 5S I won't be dreading this step.

    Kim Mace -

    I should NOT have had that cup of coffee before I attempted this!

    Cory Powell -

    This was definitely the fiddliest bit of the whole reassembly.

    After trying the slide in and then press method many times without success I ended up feeding it in directly with the tweezers, carefully angling it back up into position, then clipping it down. But the whole thing took at least 5 minutes. And my shaky hands didn’t help matters!

    Toby Moncaster -

    I was sweting gallons during this step!

    Timothy Owens -

    The replacement of the bracket was tricky. The bracket has to be put in under the two tiny tabs in the back (next to the battery) and then pushing down in the front. I knew I had it when I heard a little click from the one tab in the front seating.

    Ron Wagner -

    HI Ron, you are almost right. Or at least I did clip in the front part first and then just push the back while the back side was in between the home button connector and that two pins (the bracket on the “board”). As you said it just click in and you could hear. That was after I tried put the back first and then clip the front for 15 min.

    Martin Chudomel -

    This step needs to be explained better! The metal bracket needs to be slid in front of the metal connector near the battery and then clicked down. I've been stuck on this step as I kept trying to slide it between the metal connector and battery!!

    Whitney Hourigan -

    Updated the text a bit, while correct, it didn’t mention the metal tab in relation to the battery and cable connector. Hope this helps the next person!

    Sam Goldheart -

    This was the most helpful when trying to get the bracket back on! Once you understand that it “clips” on after you slide it on, it makes getting the bracket back on much more easy.

    Jose Gutierrez -

    And for this step felt like a life long career of tiddly winks had commenced

    Jake Baxter -

    It is confusing in reassembly, that the steps 10 and 11 are in the ascending order, because we follow the guide backwards (I suggest explaining the correct sequence: …, 12, 10, 11, and ??. ?? —> This is another point of confusion, the next step is to fit the screen back in, but because there are many (alternative) steps to open the phone, all the useful comments about closing it are spread among topics 3 to 9. There should have been a box (step) exclusively to the part of fitting the screen , so the explanation is more clear and comments are put all together. There are extremely useful comments here that should be edited in the guide (to make it even better).

    Andre Silva -

    I am having trouble connecting the home button connector to the phone cpu? Not sure why it's not staying connected but was wondering it there was any advice. I've tried for about 20 minutes just trying to line it up and press it down but no luck…

    Trayvon Banks -

    3 times I’ve had to repair my 5S & this was the most frustrating part each time. This time I cheated & just placed the cover back on top of the cable & closed the phone up. No clicking or sliding or fumbling with it. Look at it from the left side & it’s a bit easier to see where it winds up, but I didn’t fuss with it. Phone works fine now anyway.

    seijihuzz01 -

    Reinstallation.

    I struggled for a short time to get the bracket back into place. The bracket has a rectangular footprint. One edge has 1-clip and the other edge has 2-clips. I thought the 1-clip side was a ‘hook’. Haha. NOT! After taking a closer look, I could see the shape and understood how the piece should fit. It SNAPS into place.

    xtian -

    anyone else have any issues with the home button? i did everything according to the directions, but now the home button/fingerprint id is not working. Help!

    Robert Hartry -

    Reseating the Touch ID cable connector is definitely the trickiest part.

    Press fit for the connector back into the female connector side doesn’t snap in as it does on the other connectors.

    It took me 3 tries before the Home button would acknowledge the Touch ID. Make sure the connector is fully engaged by gently pushing the connector sidewise with the sprudger after you have seated the connector to make sure it is fully engaged. Gently though until it is clear there is resistance and it does not move.

    paul naecker -

    This step is incredibly difficult. I finally got the sensor snapped into place (gently), but could not get the clip in. Worst part was I placed the battery too close to the sensor chassis. So I think this is why I could not “slide” the clip into place. In the end, I left the clip off and put the phone back together. Everything works as before.

    John Schafer -

    STEPS 9-12 need a re-working - Re-assembly instructions should be put just under the disassembly instructions so that when you scroll back up the page, you’re re-assembling in step order ;)

    Ashley Lahm -

    I gave up also. Pressed down too hard and bent the part it clips onto. Just put a blob hot glue or Blu-tak in place. No problem. Works fine. Stupid design.

    blackettfenwicks -

    Wish I’d read the comments before attempting this step. I spent five minutes unsuccessfully trying to use the tweezers to slide the bracket onto the connector from left to right as described, then in frustration I squeezed too hard and the clip pinged out of the tweezers and vanished. Ten minutes searching the room and it was nowhere to be found. I’ll probably find it while tidying up in five years’ time and wonder what it is. I finished reassembling the phone without it and everything is working fine so far. Perhaps the home button connector is more likely to come loose if I drop the phone, but if it does at least I know how to pop it open and reconnect it.

    Alex Holden -

    I checked this on YouTube when re-assembling. The small tongue should be at the front and you should slide the clip to the right as far as it will go before pressing the bracket into place.

    harwood -

    This is hands down the hardest part.

    Worst thing is, that bracket lands always on the wrong side, when its dropped on the table to be picked up with tweezers, what are the odds?

    Joking aside, I ended up doing it slightly differently as in the instruction. I was not able to slide the bracket in from the side. It always slipped from the tweezers and was a pain.

    In the end, I took a different approach:

    Put the bracket on top of the connector, but too far towards the charging port (bottom of the phone); it will be angled towards the charging port, since the rear lip of the bracket still sits on top of the connector

    Then, align it above the connector (left/right) place a finger on it and push it towards the battery

    The lip will slide between the connector and the back fence, the front hook will also slide in place

    Finish it by pressing it down with the flat side of the spudger.

    Niklas Möller -

    I ripped this cable by accident. Definitely the hardest part

    Tymon Van Diemen -

    Oh bracket, what bracket? I just realized that I have indeed lost the bracket and just snapped the connector into the phone and screwed it shut. The 2010 battery swelled so much that is pushed the whole screen open so if I get a year out of it then great - just for the kids to mess about with. The Touch ID stopped working long ago but I'll know what to look for when the home button stops working. But 13 year old battery - wow and it just died here in 2023, but phone was not really used for past 6 years or so but I swear it powers up a year ago.

    buy -

  11. 2MP3RxNULa5A3yBY
    2MP3RxNULa5A3yBY
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    • During reassembly, use the flat end of a spudger to snap the front portion of the Touch ID cable bracket down over the cable connector.

    • If the bracket does not snap down flush, you may need to remove the bracket and slide it over the cable connector again for a better fit.

    It seems like a couple of these steps are reassembly steps? I wish they would label them as such. This step and step 10 are for reassembly, and it's confusing.

    Sheldon Carpenter -

    See the information line on Step 9 that says this exact thing?

    Elliot Fleming -

    STEPS 9-12 need a re-working - Re-assembly instructions should be put just under the disassembly instructions so that when you scroll back up the page, you’re re-assembling in step order ;)

    Ashley Lahm -

    The little clip is an utter “#*+}{ to refit. I gave up and put a drop of hot glue on or you could use blue tack. Makes no difference. Phone works fine.

    blackettfenwicks -

    I gave up assembling this little bracket and left it out. phone’s been working fine for past 10 minutes. I wonder if this will be a problem later though.

    rkain.kim -

    As has been well noted, reassembly of this clip is not self-evident. The clip itself is not a symmetrical piece; rather, it has a small tab on one side. What is its purpose and what is the correct alignment of the tab as it’s placed over the connector? Moreover, the available iFixit tools are not adequate to align and place into correct position, especially considering the restricted space (and light) to work in. After studying the problem, I decided to use a piece of rope caulk (used for weatherstripping) with its sticky texture to hold the clip in correct alignment before pressing it into final position.

    Peter Hartwick -

    As put so eloquently by many wise ones before me, that bracket is a %^#* to get back in. My approach was to put the needlenose tweezer tips through the two holes in the top, and push gently in the direction of the top of the phone as I applied downward pressure. With luck, I had it lined up JUST right on my 947th try, and it snapped right into place. Yikes.

    Max Discher -

    Got a message saying Touch ID couldn’t be activated. Reseated and back to normal.

    Instead of just lifting the screen to reassemble the clip you can turn the screen sideways so that it’s no longer covered.

    Stephen Shaw -

    The clip is not symmetrical! The side with one snap goes towards the speakers. CAREFULLY use the tweezers to gently set the clip down with the correct orientation. Then use the spudger to press it into place. (Sometimes one side, then the other side.)

    Take your time.

    Annette -

    Reassembly: It’s very often that you get the cable to snap to the connector on the board, but find that the device doesn't work properly. In most cases, re-seating the cable fixes the problem. S

    Sometimes, it's a bent pin on the connector, and then you have a problem… While I have been able to fix desktop CPU socket pins, I have never tried to fix a busted surfaces mount connector like these. I don't know if that's possible.

    Boyd Waters -

  12. HYLCa4ptbHn3elJj
    HYLCa4ptbHn3elJj
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    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the home button cable connector up out of its socket.

    • Be sure you're separating the cable connector from its socket, and not prying the entire socket up. The socket is on its own glued-down cable that can be pried up if you aren't careful.

    Upon reassembly, I found this easier once I was looking at the connection from the bottom of the phone, as pictured. I had been trying to line up the connector from the side. Once I put on magnifying glasses and had really good light, I lined it up and slipped my finger in for the click.

    Oh, in a moment of relief after getting the cable connected, I quickly closed up the phone, forgetting to put the metal bracket covering the home button cable back on. I had to re-open the case. Don't be like me!

    Keystone -

    Reassembly:

    The original part bends the bottom home button connector back on itself into a bracket you have to remove (not mentioned in later steps).

    That bracket has a bit of adhesive to keep the bottom connector in place.

    The replacement part does not come with a bracket, or additional adhesive, so the bottom connector flops around & can make reassembly a challenge. I found it was best to hold right edge of the bottom in place w/1 finger, and use a 2nd finger to slide the upper cable connector left to right and click it into place.

    seijihuzz01 -

    Also worth mentioning is that upon reassembly, make sure that the home button cable folds to the left (away from the side with the SIM card) as the front panel will not fit properly otherwise.

    Brian Riess -

    这个地方必须小心,我上次就把底部接口搞坏了,害我换个电池的同时还换了一个尾插

    Zhou Lin -

    非常感谢!我正在准备更换朋友的电池。你的提醒很有用~

    Liu bing -

    STEPS 9-12 need a re-working - Re-assembly instructions should be put just under the disassembly instructions so that when you scroll back up the page, you’re re-assembling in step order ;)

    Ashley Lahm -

    The socket is on its own glued-down cable that can be pried up if you aren't careful.

    There is a mistake into the sentence …is on its own A glued-down cable…

    Diederik Wiersma -

    itself is even better

    kind regards

    Diederik Wiersma -

    put a piece of tape over the edge so you don’t rip the cable out like I did. I replaced the battery a few years ago and the screen came out muck easier. this time I broke the cable. Good-bye touch ID and iPhone 5S now I can only unlock the screen with a full reboot and home button is gone. to the trash can it goes! had it many years.

    ethan briggs -

  13. RXhBZL1oRZngViua
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    • Once the connector has been released, pull the home button end of the assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge.

    • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

    • In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.

    maak een constructie waar de iPhone in valt en waarbij het scherm in een hoek van 90 graden kan worden gefixeerd, dan hoef je drie kabeltjes niet los te maken. Is mij heel goed gelukt .

    Joop Roos -

    Out of curiosity I decided to use google translate…here it is in English. “make a construction where the iPhone falls and the screen can be fixed at a 90 degree angle, you do not have to unlock three cables. I did very well.”

    Kelly Ann -

    Take a look at 3rd pic in step #13. Letting U know that this is basically what Joop Roos was trying to say. I tried it and it works very well, with one caveat: as U continue to work on your phone, it may move around a bit. Mine did, and after new battery was connected I moved phone around enough to accidentally press the button on top and it booted while the screen was still rubber banded to the box. I removed rubber bands and waited till I could touch “cancel” then pressed and held top button till the “slide to power off” thing showed up on the screen and then did so. After completion, everything was good with no problems. I think I was lucky. Please be mindful if U use this method of not disconnecting these cables in top right area.

    Siegfried -

    No need to remove the screen or any cable except that which is directly connected to the home button!!! just prop it open the phone with screen facing up, an angle of about 45 to 60 degrees will give enough working space to remove and replace the home button.

    The trickiest part is connecting the home button cable and getting its retaining clip in place.

    Dickon -

    We found the opening was not exactly easy to 90°, finally it did open completely. Be careful on the last degrees, the cables may pull little bit on the metal piece you are about to unmount in the next step. No worries, all worked fine. Just - be gentle with the cables when opening.

    Bernd Saegmueller -

    I was unable to remove one of the screws, but removing one and then just pivoting the battery connector bracket worked just fine.

    Gary Carlson -

    I think the little tabs at the top of my front panel assembly broke at this step. I found two little pieces of plastic inside the phone later on, and now, with everything finished and put back together, the top of the screen is a little loose: it’s seated 1-2mm too high and moves in when I press it.

    Maybe I should have pulled the top of the assembly out of the rear case, before hinging it up?

    Jacob Rosen -

    Kleine opmerking: correct Nederlands voor “blikje drinken” is “drankblikje”.

    flitsdoortstad -

    I took a spudger and proped up the screen with that. Works great!

    guardian10 -

  14. 55SKBhyrNJGRXleh
    • Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the metal battery connector bracket to the logic board.

    I don't see why steps 14, 15, and 16 are even necessary. I was able to remove the scene without removing the battery (skipping these 3 steps)

    Luke Lin -

    See Jonathan Goldsmith's comment ;)

    Didier Daniel -

    Working on the phone without removing the battery will most likely damage the component. My OnePlus One runs extremely slow after working on it without removing the battery. I think it's a problem with the GPU, because the display was very slow to update the screen contents.

    Peter Pan -

    Pan is right. Not removing the battery means you will run the risk of shorting some circuits not meant to be connected, and thus can damage those components. This can happen very easily, and without you even knowing it. Additionally, the internal components of a digital device are not meant to be disconnected while having any amount of power applied(and even though your device may not even turn on because the battery is completely shot, there very likely will still be a small amount of power coming from the battery to the internal components of the device). Doing so will likely cause an overcurrent condition that will damage the components of the device.

    Jonathan Goldsmith -

    Now my problem, however, is that the screws on this bracket do not seem to want to unscrew. :(

    Jonathan Goldsmith -

    Okay, the problem would seem to have been with the screwdriver that came with my iFixit battery "Fix kit". Tried another screwdriver, and no problems at all.

    Jonathan Goldsmith -

    Phillips #000 provided with the iFixit repair kit does not fit the screws

    Vitaly Kirichenko -

    I agree the #000 Phillips driver didn't work. I happened to already have a #0 Phillips that did work much better.

    Bruce Peffley -

    Same problem here

    Mikkel Albrechtsen -

    The screwdriver that came with the kit worked fine for me when I applied pressure with my palm to the end of the driver and turned the driver with my forefinger and thumb

    Tom Gleason -

    The ifixit #000 works…if you put an uncomfortable amount of pressure on the driver. Yikes. Use a larger bit if you’ve got it.

    Chris Wiley -

    i damaged the bottom screw with the phillips00 ifixit screwdriver :-(

    Pierre -

    It’d be nice if the iFixit people could address this problem with the PH000 driver. I am afraid of stripping the screw head because the PH000 I was sent doesn’t come close to catching in the screw head.

    orders -

    If you are having an issue with the PH#000 bit included with your iFixit Fix Kit then you can contact our customer support team at support@ifixit.com.

    Tom Gantt -

    The two screws are not exactly same size. (But very similar)

    If you switch them you’ll have issues with Bluetooth. I’m sorry but I don’t remember where is going the longer screw.

    pfx -

    With my phone I needed to use a PH0000 screwdriver. The provided PH000 (and my own from another screwdriver set) was too large. Indeed, every Phillips head screw in my phone needed the PH0000 and not the PH000 driver.

    rhowehmd -

    The video does not show this step, they go directly to the screen disassembly. Being that I was following the video, I did not disconnect the battery, and now it does not boot. :-( Thanks iFixit video .

    Robert Helgason -

    My screws seemed stripped, and when I went back to tighten it the scfrews got stuck, eventually one broke in the scoket. So I can’t screw down this protector. What does it do? Can I just get rid of it? Tap it down? Ideally Id have some eletrical tape and tape it down. But I don’t, and I just wanna toss it. AFraid it is important, or protects a circuit by conducting electricity

    Patrick Yerkes -

    I pretty consistently get the message, “unable to activate touch id on this iphone” if I connect the battery before connecting the group of cables in the upper right corner. It seems that if those are reattached while the battery is plugged in I see the touch ID error. Connecting the battery after connecting the upper-right corner group of cables has consistently helped. YMMV of course.

    David Brown -

    I don´t even have the logic board (if thats the silvery thing that the screws are keeping in place). Is the phone going to work without it?

    Hey hermano -

    I don’t understand you folks having problems with the #000 bit? I removed the screws without even thinking about it. My problem is the little antenna connector getting disconnected when I lifted the bracket plate! I mentioned it in Step 15

    jtreepro -

  15. w6FTkeEP4scqKibH
    • Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

    Not clear to me why this and the next step are necessary for a screen replacement...

    Daniel Goldschmidt -

    Well, for one, Daniel, this is a BATTERY replacement tutorial. ???

    jtreepro -

    Using the iFixit tweezers to remove the bracket caused a spark. I used the plastic spudger instead.

    Bryan Remely -

    Is this tutorial or the iPhone SE? The battery should be 1624mAh but these pictures go back and forth between showing 1510and 1560mAh. Why are pictures showing different batteries, and why isn't it showig the 1624mAh for the 5 SE?

    Someone Somewhere -

    After installing the New iPhone 5s Lightning Connector Replacement I noticed there was no foam on top of the new plug, leaving bare metal exposed. I cut a small piece of electricians tape to be placed on top of the new plug to keep it from coming in contact with the metal battery connector bracket

    Scott Nacke -

    GENTLY DISCONNECT BOTH CONNECTORS, IMMEDIATELY AFTER REMOVING METAL BATTERY CONNECTOR BRACKET (and not just the one as outlined in following step…)

    c0BRA -

    WHY? That is totally unnecessary!?!

    jtreepro -

    Battery connector bracket lifts out easily with fingernail (non-conductive, no sparks). Top screw (closer to hinge) is shorter. I taped both to a labelled piece of paper with Magic Plus 811 removable transparent tape.

    keesan -

    I can’t believe nobody has mentioned that the little antenna connector (visible here just to the right of the metal battery connector’s female screw socket, covered with a tiny piece of foam) might be stuck to the metal bracket, and come loose when you remove said bracket. It’s a challenge to get the foam off of it (for visibility), and reconnect! I have no suggestions to make it easier except to be patient! You’ll get it, but my SE almost got tossed across the room trying! ;-)

    jtreepro -

  16. DpnbclvbWNryvCyv
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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector itself and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket or the board itself, you may destroy the socket or damage nearby components on the board.

    pourquoi faire?

    Alexis Camper -

    Skip steps17-22. Just be extra careful and secure the screen. Less to go wrong the less you open.

    William Stein -

    Also order the headband magnifier. It really helps with the tiny components you are working with.

    William Stein -

    A way to skip step 17-22

    I unfolded as next step the display in a perpendicular way (so display unit and rest of the device in 90°) and fixed the display with an elastic band at an opened iPhone packaging box. Then I continued directly at step 23 with the removal of the battery without removing the display unit at all. Worked very well without any problems… and now I’m curious whether the new battery really powers the device for a longer time :-)

    Rolf Enderes -

    I also skipped the step of removing the dispaly, instead using a rubber band to secure the display to the iPhone box. Worked great, and avoided the hassle of disconnecting the display.

    Daniel Melchior -

    I skipped this step and I also removed my display. I don’t know what will happen in the future but there’s no problems till now...

    Ran Mika (Tshukimi Elune) -

    I didn’t realize that each of the photos contained different steps until later on, (the photos look very similar to each other in the thumbnails), and so I don’t think I removed the 2nd part of the battery attachment as its in the 2nd photo. I figured it out later, but only after step 20, which requires that the battery is fully disconnected before doing. Oops!

    Everything else went well though, and I’ve since reinstalled the battery, drained it, and recharged, and it seems to be fine. Will cross my fingers and hope I didn’t damage anything.

    Nancy Zan -

    If you do remove the display, it is helpful before removing the four diffferently sized screws to tape down a piece of masking tape, sticky side up, and remove them in a defined order, sticking them to the tape as you go. Then there’s no chance of mixing them up when you re-assemble.

    john lawn -

    Agree with William Stein above. Skip Steps 17-22. Simply secure the top of your phone with a rubber band to something sturdy. A 14 oz. can of kidney beans will do. I followed all of the other directions and the repair went smoothly and I didn’t lose Touch ID functionality. It was not necessary to heat my phone to remove the adhesive strips. I simply gently stretched and continually pulled at the base of the adhesive strip. Was rather surprised at how easy it was. Hardest part is re-attaching the home button cable connector and re-inserting the Touch ID cable bracket. When it’s time to reassemble those parts, be sure to go back through Steps 9-12, reading all of the comments for helpful tips. Used a Disney-Pixar-like desk lamp for good lighting and, also, the back of a refrigerator magnet to place the screws while working.

    CMac -

    Skip or Not to Skip, that is the question.

    I opted to skip the screen removal at first. Only when I had to replace the adhesive strips did I change my mind. Looking at the adhesive removal page, I believe the freedom of movement allowed without the screen in the way is key to successfully applying the adhesive strips.

    xtian -

    Screen removal is unnecessary, and avoids many opportunities for damage and trouble! I rubber banded the display to a small jar of peanut butter, and removed and replaced the battery with no issues. The adhesive strip on the outside pulled right out, but the inside one broke. I was able to pry the battery up enough to fish out the broken strip and pull the rest out. Replaced the battery, and all is well!

    Gary Loper -

    I followed the directions of pulling the tabs and I just went super slow and continued to move my placement down lower and closer to the base of the battery and wow came out so clean nothing to even scrape off. I did an iPhone 5 but it didn't have this adhesive. The battery was barely stuck inside so I got lucky being that the battery was swollen. Apple actually gave me a new iPhone 5 when my phones battery was swollen during the Apple 5 bad battery replacement.

    Heather -

    it seems very strange this step’s instruction does not mention the 4 microscopic components on the motherboard next to the socket on the opposite side to the battery. If you put your plastic pry tool all the way into the gap between the connector and the metal shield you are going to pop them off the board and they are so small you won’t ever notice this or feel it. There are plenty of posts on the internet asking “why did my 5s stop charging after I successfully repaired the screen” and this is a really common reason. Put your pry tool in the minimum amount to just catch the metal plate on the top of the connector to avoid this.

    James -

    I too must agree with James about inserting the pry tool. If you insert it at that angle, you run the very high chance of poping off components that are located between that gap. Those components aren’t just ‘nearby’, they’re IN that gap! There’re several YouTube vids about the replacement of those components and it is not for the faint of heart. One is a coil (you ‘can’ place a jumper across) and the other is either a resister or a capacitor and those must be replaced.

    Player Onesix -

    These 3 capacitors and especially one ferrite bead are real problem. Screwed 2 phones up, one totally dead the other one managed to get battery online again.

    Pry battery connector open either with tweezers from flex cable side or from the side of long connector (speaker, lightining port connector).

    Step 16 on photos is 50/50% success.

    valdek -

    I actually find that using your fingernail works brilliantly. just place your nail under the connector where you will feel a slight lip. this lets you know that you have just the connector and nothing else. then just pull up slightly and the connector pops off. Worked a treat for me first time and this is my 3rd SE i have opened now.

    Geoff King -

    I’ve destroyed components on logic board during this step as my pry tool tocuhed the board when prying. Now the phone won’t charge. Be extra careful.

    Betonos -

    Actually the pictures seem to be the same as iPhone 5S and not the SE although there are certainly differences. Specially on the battery connector.

    iFixit should add another note that warns the users of the delicate components next to the battery connector. They can easily pop and cause battery charging problems.

    shoeib -

    You guys need to put a warning here for those micro components in front of the connector. I hit one and now my phone restarts randomly.

    Jacob Hess -

    These Demo Pics really ought to be Directly Above the device/area of focus…

    Considering the perspective of pic(s), it is entirely probable for user to uncouple, seemingly similar, Lightning connector cable directly next to Battery Connector. Just to be safe, without incurring any additional risk or time to your BATTERY Repair:

    DISCONNECT BOTH CONNECTORS, IMMEDIATELY AFTER REMOVING METAL BATTERY CONNECTOR BRACKET (in previous step, #15).

    The Red Text Warning in this step is a bit confusing, but it’s definitely not referring to the ++Lightning connector cable++ (directly next to Battery Connector). And if you mistakenly uncouple one and not the [batt connector] other, like I did, You’ll Most Certainly Corrupt the (FL2400) Ferrite Bead Filter, While Attempting to Gently Pry heated (old) Battery From It’s Seat; Rendering your device’s charging capabilities Null.

    re: Is this what a damaged FL11 looks like on a iPhone SE?

    c0BRA -

    For reassembly, I had trouble getting the battery connector re-seated, because it had pulled out with the bracket, and I didn’t see its original placement. There a two (or three?) small gold dots just above (toward the top of the phone) where the top edge fits — so make sure those dots are visible when you’re trying to place the connector. Also, it fits a bit to the right edge of the phone (away from the battery), compared with the piece above it.

    Zora O'Neill -

    iPhone SE:

    Your guide shows exactly the WRONG way to pry off the battery connector. NEVER pry along the right edge of the connector, and NEVER attack the connector from a high angle. This deadly combo is almost guaranteed to break components.

    Pry the connector at the narrow edge furthest from the home button where there is nothing to damage, and use a shallow angle of attack so the pry force is mostly upwards.

    tns -

    We have just fallen foul of this too. The photo showing the prising off of the battery connector is, as the previous comment says, completely wrong and will result in damaging the tiny components just in front of the connector which is exactly what happened to us. Wish we’d read these comments but we assumed the photos and description were correct…..%#*@ !

    Ed Griffiths -

    Alles funktioniert bis auf das Aufladen. Statusanzeige: "5% geladen". Beim Betrieb ab Ladekabel startet das iPhone nach 1 Minute neu. Hätte ich eure Kommentare vorher gelesen, hätte ich es vermutlich nicht vermurkst!

    hagilu -

  17. iD2VEdrj1ImHPsQh
    • Remove the following screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:

    • One 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screw

    • One 1.2 mm Phillips #000 screw

    • One 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw

    • One more 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screw

    • This 1.7 mm screw tends to not be attracted to a magnetized screwdriver. Take care not to lose it when removing.

    • It is especially important to keep track of your screws in this step for reassembly. Accidentally using the 1.3 mm screw or one of the 1.7 mm screws in the bottom right hole will result in significant damage to the logic board causing the phone to no longer boot properly.

    • Be careful not to over-tighten the screws, and don't force them. If they don't fit easily when you are securing them, they may be the wrong size.

    Two screws at the bottom should be the most short, two screws on top are the longest, you got it wrong.Please official verification again, and reply to me. Thank you!

    CLAUDE -

    Hi Claude,

    Unfortunately I forgot to check at dis-assembly which screw goes back where at step 11 so I ended up following the instructions although, I would find it logical that the longer screws are for the top and the shorter ones for the bottom holes, which is what you mentioned also . I anyway ended up following the instructions and all went well except that I am now unable to hear anything while in a phone call connected to the Bluetooth in my car. The phone connects, I have the battery and network status on the screen of my car, I can receive SMS on the car's screen, I can stream music to the speakers but I cannot hear anything while in a call. I can hear the call ringing in the car speakers, I can answer it but after that it's silent.

    So, I was wondering:

    1. Did you hear back on your comment from iFixit?

    2. Did you install the screws back the way you mentioned in your comment? Did it work?

    3. Did you check / note down the position of the screws at dis-assembly?

    Thanks in advance.

    Regards,

    Cornel.

    corneliumusat -

    Can anyone answer if the blue strips on the crews indicate which screws they are? They are all so small it's hard to find the right lengths for each hole

    Ariel Drotter -

    Does anyone know if the blue strips on the screws indicate their length? I'm finding it very hard to distinguish the lengths

    Ariel Drotter -

    @Ariel - The blue that you are seeing on the screws is simply leftover loctite compound that is used to prevent the screws from working their way loose during every day use and does not give any indication as to the length of the screw. You should notice that, generally, you have two lengths of screws out of the 4 that came out...2 with longer threads and two with shorter threads. The two with shorter threads need to go in the bottom two holes...these two screws are not exactly the same length (difference of 0.1 mm), but mixing them up should not cause any harm to the phone due to such a small difference. With the two longer ones that are leftover, only one of them will be magnetically attracted to your screwdriver...this is the one that goes in the top left hole. The one that does not easily attract to your screwdriver goes in the top right.

    iGuys -

    Hi Everyone,

    Claude is right, after re-arranging the screws so that the top two are the longest, bottom-right shortest and bottom left is the second-shortest the in-call audio came back with Bluetooth calls.

    The same was found and posted by Pete on the Apple Support Communities forums and, as mentioned, I can also confirm that this fix works.

    Hope this helps.

    Regards,

    Cornel.

    corneliumusat -

    The magnetic mat its priceless I found. As I removed screws, I placed on magnetic mat and labeled right away. Reassembly time was a breeze.

    RayBob -

    Upside-down masking tape also works well, especially when labelled with corresponding step for each bit of parts!

    W Fleming -

    i did the battery replacement and now my gyro isnt working. I did not know the screws had different lengths. Think it will be ok if i take apart and put correctly or do i need a new logic board??

    William Boggs -

    The two 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screws should be placed on top and the 1.2 & 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw at the bottom.

    If you do not respect that order, the Bluetooth calls feature will not work anymore.

    Please change all the versions including this step.

    Louis Torres -

    I skipped steps 11-16 and that worked pretty well from me. On another commenter's advice, I simply used some packaging tape to tape onto the top of the screen, over the top of the phone, and onto the back of the phone to hold the display at a right angle to the rest of the device. Saved me all the trouble/risk of disconnecting the display, but if you use this method you should be VERY careful not to hit the display while removing the battery.

    lambdahindiii -

    I completely agree with lambdahindiii, skip steps 11 - 16 completely. You do have to be careful not to flip open the display, but it's manageable with some care.

    I will give disclaimer that I used 3.0x magnification with surgical loupes. Any kind of magnification will help. Also recommend using an LED head lamp for optimal illumination.

    wmlee1 -

    I'm going to upvote the suggestion to skip steps 11- 16 too.

    Some things to look out for:

    - Both the battery adhesive strips broke off for me so I had to pry the battery out. You do have to be careful as a good amount of pressure is needed to remove the battery that you don't twist the top display and break the connectors. It's just a trade-off of risks though - you won't have to worry about losing or inserting the wrong screws for the front panel connectors either.

    - The metal connector over the touch ID button is hard to put back in. It looks like one piece on the video but it's a separate metal piece that goes over the connector.

    - To open the case with the suction cup, I found it useful to place the cup more to one side, and lift that side up first and then work on the other side.

    Take your time and good luck all

    wilten -

    I agree. The steps to remove the display are unnecessary. I skipped these and had no issues.

    Matt Reier -

    On my phone it actually seems like one of the 1.7mm screws is non-magnetic (the other 3 screws are magnetic). Although this could be a botched repair job from a previous owner...

    I guess if it's intentional, it should be the top-right one, as that is closest to the compass IC.

    woods81 -

    You're right. The top right screw must be non-ferrous stainless. I've repaired tons of the5-5s and that screw is never magnetic.

    BJS -

    You are absolutely correct — the upper right one is the non-ferrous / non-magnetic one. I’ve made corrections to this guide and the guide for the iPhone 5 but each time the edits have been denied, once by @Reed Danis and the previous by @Walter Galan. Not sure why they’re denied — it’s obvious which one doesn’t stick to a magnetic screwdriver. This mistake makes these guides quite unreliable and will screw (ha) with the compass.

    Drtofu -

    Apparently it is non magnetic so as not to interfere with the compass. The iPhone 6 has moved tis down to the bottom near the battery connector.

    Jack -

    I was fixing a broken screen, when I noticed that the guy that had started the job before leaving it to me, had mixed up the screws for the battery that he changed by himself and step 11. So i started searching around for an answer when the startup just looped with the Apple logo. and I of course started here, and found out that he had mixed up the screws, but step 11 here, and the same step at this link: http://www.irepairnational.com/iphone-5s...

    shows two different ways to where the 1,2mm and the 1,7mm screws are being placed.

    what is the correct way?

    alexaamo91 -

    i had the 'blue screen of death' and here was my workaround:

    Apple logo then blue screen

    kgale4 -

    I was wondering exactly the same thing why we need to un-screw the screen? Anyway place the screws in the order they come and you should find no problems putting them back in right order.

    Also I found the screw driver comes with ifixit battery kit does not fit in the screws perfectly. Feeling a little large for these screws. Anyone else had the same experience?

    fredhdx -

    Because this guide is for more than one repair option instead of them having to type out several this fits in for replacment of screen. I didn't hav the kit but my #000 wasn’t the best for all I used a #00 just depends on if the tip isn't real pointy

    Heather -

    The screw 1.7mm screw (highlighted green) was magnetic on the phone I repaired, while the standoff near it in step #27 was not (*see my note in #27). Either I have different parts or the magnetism note was swapped. If anyone else can confirm or deny this it’d help the guide. Thanks.

    mnoivad -

    Invest in several colored Sharpie pens. When you see a red circle on the guide, tap that screw head with a red sharpie, orange, green, blue and so forth. This makes it almost fool-proof to not mix up your screws when re-assembling the phone or any other piece of equipment.

    Pete H -

    I cannot unscrew the Philips #000 screws in this step using iFixit's Philips #000 screwdriver. The screw does not even turn at all. I wonder about the screwdriver iFixit is using in the video - https://youtu.be/k_OpjhKAUCM?t=180 . Can we buy it ?

    Daylen -

    Putting the upper screws back in the bracket is a bit tricky--if you hold the screen at 90 degrees, the connector cables lift up the loose bracket, but if you lower the screen to allow the bracket to lay flat, you can't reach with a screw driver. Be very slow and patient and replace the upper left screw last (after the first three are tight)--these will hold down the bracket fairly well so you can aim the last (upper left) screw into the hole and push down as you tighten.

    bartonh -

    That is exactly how I did it; good hint. Thanks.

    Andre Silva -

    So I managed to loose the top right (non magnetic) screw. I saw it fall to the table, but it's gone. Wonder if it fell back into the phone, as there is a slight rattle sound when I shake it. Will there be any big surprises if I just reassemble without that screw?

    larserikkolden -

    How did it turn out? I lost the same screw.

    Austin Packard -

    If you keep the top steady these steps (17-22) could be skipped. That's how I did. Everything is ok.except screwdriver didn't undo upper one of the battery bracket I had to bend the bracket.

    Mehmet Hakan -

    I noticed that reassembling my device, if the metal bracket touch the hole of the 1.3mm screw the touch stopped working. I had to put a little piece of plastic between the hole and the bracket unable to put the screw in (or it would make contact between the hole and the bracket).

    Any suggestion?

    denis.g.94 -

    Hi Denis, could you be a bit more specific as to which metal bracket you are referring to please? also, where did you put the piece of plastic? Thank you.

    jamesmclachlan -

    Denis, could you be more specific please? Which metal bracket causes the problem and where did you put the piece of plastic?

    I have the same problem, (lost touch screen function).

    jamesmclachlan -

    Trying to get the screws into the holes and driving them in was extraordinarily challenging due in large part to their magnetic bond. Screws didn't want to leave the driver, once they were in they flew right back out as soon as the driver came within distance. To combat this, I suggest using a thin, clear tape (I used packing tape) cut into 4 strips and place each screw flat side down on one end of each strip of tape. Now you can easily maneuver and securely hold the screws into their holes as the driver pierces the tape easily screwing them in without losing them or your mind. Also, fridge magnets are good to retrieve screws that have fallen into iPhone's nooks and crannies, likewise from carpeting.

    James Lee -

    After aligning the bracket over the screw holes, I used the tweezers to pick the screw on its head and position it in the hole. Then, it was not difficult to use the screwdriver to fasten it.

    Andre Silva -

    If I messed up the screw placement, can it be redone and fixed by putting the screws back in prober order?

    Colm Noone -

    Like James Lee (above), I found reinserting the tiny screws quite difficult because the magnetic screwdriver would pull them out, with the screw adhering to the screwdriver at odd angles. What worked was to insert a screw with tweezers, then START the screw using the non-magnetic plastic pointy tool while holding down the plate so the screw could turn easily. Once the screw was started, I tightened it with the screwdriver.

    Sandy Trevor -

    Firstly do not just watch the video if you are going to do the battery replacement. I was too busy and stupid and only watched the video and boogered my Girlfiends 5S with the screw replacement boon doggle... You must read the iFix full instructions (forget the video) or you will screw it up!..

    yaterbob -

    The iFixit Kit I bought does NOT have the right screw driver to remove these screws. Neither phillips screwdrivers work - the point is much too sharp and does not grip the screw at all. Not happy with this purchase right now.

    Richard -

    Color coding the screw heads is an excellent idea. I used red for red - green for green - and black for orange - left the yellow one uncolored. Did a screen capture and labeled it to avoid confusion.

    Leonard -

    Also color a small area around the screws on the cable bracket. Makes it real easy to see which screw goes where.

    Leonard -

    I found out that you don’t need the 1.7mm screw. The shorter one will do and I don’t lose bluetooth.

    patjmccarthy -

    I used colored sharpies to keep track of the screws. I color coded the screw heads and around their holes. Worked like a charm.

    Brigham Okano -

    I managed to loose the socket of the green screw. Apparently, during my second disassembly of my iPhone the socket (which appears to be screwed in as well) came loose without me noticiing it and promptly vanished later on in the process, never to be seen again. The iPhone does seem to work without it, but still, I’d advise checking that they are still in place when you unmount the metal shield.

    Sven Siggelkow -

    Erroneamente ho sbagliato la combinazione delle viti e mi si è danneggiata l’iPhone.. che parte devo cambiare ?

    garino1990 -

    You do not actually have to remove the screen to replace the battery. Just tilt up the screen at a 60 degree angle from the phone and tape it open or have someone hold it up. That way you don’t have to flex the screen wires or inadvertently damage anything.

    Imre Treufeld -

    I also completed this repair successfully without removing the screen. I kept the screen at a 90 degree angle using the iPhone’s box and a rubber band as pictured in Step 13. I was nervous about bumping it while doing the rest of the steps and stretching the display cables too much, but it worked.

    garygrossman -

    If anyone is still using the dino-aged iphone 5s like me ;) , please follow the steps rather than the video patiently before putting it into action. The screw placement is extremely crucial during reassemble. I messed the screws up the first time and had problems with touch screen, it wasn’t working. Then I disassembled again. I was lucky to have sufficient eyesight to figure out the 1.7 mm screws - both magnetic and non-magnetic ones. In case of of lower left screw, I put the one I felt (!) the bigger one, and at the end, left the lower right hole unscrewed. It’s working fine now.

    Ananya Roy -

    I removed the screws and placed them on a white piece of paper in the orientation they belonged in and then removed the bracket covering the cables (step 18). At this point, looking at the 3 cables I needed to remove I thought one of these likely won’t go back on correctly and will be disabled. I had the screen securely at 90 degrees to the base using a juice glass and rubber band so I decided to put the bracket back on and skip to step 23. I wish I had thought of that before removing the screws as these are some tiny screws. It was difficult to see which end was the screw head and get it placed on the screwdriver for inserting into the hole. For the green (nonmagnetized) screw I used the tweezers to get it in the hole and then screwed it in.

    Gary Grinstead -

    Alas my screws got muddled without me realising and a long one went on the bottom right (as per the warning in the article). When you say “will result in damage”, would either of these count? 1) trapped in a cycle of booting with the white apple logo or 2) trapped in a loop of white apple logo followed by red screen

    Thanks, James

    James -

    I would think so. Even just lines could be damage to logic board. I got the screws figured out using the link I posted above as a guide to measure but my new screen won’t do anything. I bought it from eBay and I replaced battery first. I could see back light on broken screen prior to replacement and I get the chime when plugged in but absolutely nothing on the screen. I was very careful with the ribbon cables as it comes with them completely flat so I just seated the cables and slowly moved the screen to a 90 degree angle. Could I have broken something's in the ribbon cable?? Or maybe just pos screen? Read comments on seller after this noted is not oem and others had problems. s it possible to conn to iTunes and maybe fix problem if it’s a software issue? I don’t know what else to do at this point. Any help I should appreciated

    Heather -

    One doesn’t actually HAVE to remove the display. But it does make the removal of the battery easier, at it is very well glued to the back case.

    jimbbo -

    I didn’t set the screws aside so I had to measure which is super hard but here’s a link to an online free ruler and it has a command icon for you to input show me 1.7mm and then you can match up screw lengths. The website is https://www.ginifab.com/feeds/cm_to_inch...

    i hope this helps for anyone who removed the panel without reading the important steps first and i’m female lol.

    Heather

    Heather -

    As mentioned, the screws are difficult to re-install. I found that sitting the screw on its head on the table and pressing down with my finger the screw will be set on your finger, head up. Then carefully put Philips driver into screw slot. It should come away and easily inserted into bracket.

    wdbowers -

    WRONG !!!

    The ONLY 1,7mm it's at the top left corner. All OTHERS are 1.3 mm. The 1.7mm it tue other screw under this part.

    I broke my phone because of this.

    Samuel Roy -

    is it necessary to put back this plate after reattached screen , cuz i didn’t , for futures swaps

    Nikolai Nikolov -

    With my phone I needed to use a PH0000 screwdriver. The provided PH000 (and my own from another screwdriver set) was too large. Indeed, every Phillips head screw in my phone needed the PH0000 and not the PH000 driver.

    rhowehmd -

    Don’t do it. Don’t do this step. With some gentle care you can get the battery replaced without ever removing the four tiny screws from !&&*.

    Bryce Nesbitt -

    This step and all the steps through 22 are not needed for replacing lighting connector- don’t know why they’re on this guide.

    Elijah Underhill-Miller -

    I totally agree with Elijah, I had to do this repair 3 times today and after the first time I realised that steps 17 to 22 are not necessary if you can find some way of keeping the screen upright. I propped my screen up using a flat headed toothpick and it worked fine providing you are careful.

    Micky McGuinness -

    Auf die Schritte 17 - 22 habe ich ebenfalls verzichtet.

    Den Akku konnte ich mit hochgeklappten Display entfernen.

    Die Klebestreifen sind zwar gerissen, aber mit Fön und sanfter Gewalt hat es funktioniert.

    Der neue Akku hat laut iMazing sogar 1736 mAh :-)

    beemer -

    I would agree with Bryce Nesbitt. DO NOT do these steps if all you’re going to do is replace the battery. Having disconnected and reconnected all this stuff, which absolutely was not needed to get the battery out, my touchscreen is no longer working and there’s a weird grid pattern all over the screen, which suggests to me that at least one of the connectors isn’t seated properly, so I’m going to have to do this all over again.

    Let me reiterate: DO NOT DO THIS IF ALL YOU WANT IS TO REPLACE THE BATTERY. Skip straight to step 23 where you start work to remove the battery adhesive tab and strips.

    bart.read -

    I’m sure someone can correct me, but this is my experience. The 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screw in the top right might be demagnetised for a reason. When I tried a magnetised screw in that position I found that I got a distinct yellowish tinge on my screen in the same place. So I removed the screw (couldn’t find the original as it disappeared off the face of the earth!), and re-assembled the phone without it.

    Don’t have any problems as far as I see having only 3 screws holding the bracket down…

    semmons -

    I had the 4 screws all neat and separated, then accidentally got a super-strong rare earth magnet too close to them, and they were all mixed up. To determine the difference between the 1.3 and 1.2, I pulled out calipers. I found both of mine to be 1.1 mm, so they weren’t different lengths. Also, all 4 of mine were attracted to the magnet.

    Robb M -

    Eek. I didn’t have access to this guide when taking my phone apart. I mostly access the internet on my phone as my laptop is super slow. I watched the YouTube video on my smart TV while doing the repair. So I didn’t know the screws were different sizes, they all looked pretty teeny tiny to me. Makes sense now that the top left one is longer, I got a bit frustrated trying to get that one in, and ended up putting it in last so the others would hold the plate in position. I do remember one didn’t stick to the screwdriver, and I actually dropped this one into the iPhone and then on the mottled carpet when I shook it out, but found it after a long search. Then I just put the screws in however they came to me. I hope they ended up okay. I already did it twice because the screen had lines on when I finished, and I also managed to inadvertently disconnect the on/off button and not reconnect properly. Need to make them click.

    PS I’m not sure you sufficiently stressed the importance of the screw order in the video.

    Jody -

    Good to know about the screw lengths. This section could have a larger font warning to carefully store the the screws in the right orientation, in separate compartments. I didn’t notice the notes on screw size until after I put all 4 screws in one compartment. I had to line up the screws (upside down) and eyeball which appeared to be which lengths using a magnifying lens. It took a few minutes but I figured it out due to their relative sizes.

    tshoran@hotmail.com -

    Suggest using a Sharpie to color-code screws before removal. Color screw heads (matching Step 17 if you like) and add a color circle around each screw head.

    MotorMac -

  18. Qf1ZESnZwCWTq23D
    • Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

    At my iPhone 5s this part is missing!

    Michael Schöttner -

    Vor dem wiedereinsetzten des Bleches ist es ratsam den Monitor und den Touchsreen zu testen. Ich habe bis hier alles wiederholen müssen wegen Balken im oberen Bereich des Monitors und hackelnder Touchfunktion.

    mit_dt -

  19. eAP5okmMOgLFqaAQ
    eAP5okmMOgLFqaAQ
    GKwTNTT3FxZlvRwc
    • Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable.

    The flat end of the spudger works great to position and press down on the connectors during reassembly.

    Magnus Dalen -

    I did not try the spudger (but I think I should have), because this cable was the most difficult to me. It kept flipping (not aligning with the socket) and with one hand holding the screen and the other trying to connect was very difficult .

    Andre Silva -

    As shown in the picture, the cable needed to be pushed back with a bit of a bend to connect it during re-assembly

    Praveen Senadheera -

    During reassembly, it’s easier to reconnect by first placing the left side (close to battery) and then clicking it into place (than, say, top side first)

    Athanasius Pernath -

    In one of four iPhone SE ‘s on which I’ve done screen replacements, there was a rubber gasket left behind when I unplugged this cable. I was unable to seat the connector properly until I removed the gasket.

    Just adding in case you encounter this.

    Peter -

    Das Abbauen des Displays ist Schwachsinn da sich der Akku leicht auch tauschen lässt wenn das Display aufgeklappt mit einem Gummi

    an einer Getränkedose befestigt ist !

    Johannes Clauss -

    Important note: There are four connectors here but only three need removing. If you remove the one on the lower left just above the screw you’ll never get it back in. It connects to the motherboard, no the screen.

    Rusty -

    During reassembly, I found reattaching the front facing camera sensor cable to be the most difficult. I would recommend bending the cables to closely match those from the screen that your replacing. I know that sounds kindof funky , but I had difficulty lining it up.

    Jeffrey -

    Thanks for the gasket tip. I thought I was just crazy! Then pulled that gasket, and presto, it seated right away!

    Kent Alan Lee -

  20. 3LG1nQPOEPwEYg3p
    3LG1nQPOEPwEYg3p
    YYiEkELODInGjRnx
    • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step.

    • Disconnect the LCD cable connector.

    • When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop off the connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.

    When you reassemble the cables, you can align them with the sockets using the tip of your finger. A spudger or tweezers are way too clunky and is actually far more difficult. When the cable aligns with the socket, give it a firm push with your finger tip and you should be able to feel it click into place. This is actually a pretty tight mechanical fit and is fairly hard to dislodge.

    Sheldon Carpenter -

    After some 4 seconds stripes start to appear and at the bottom a black band of some 3 mm horizontally over the screen. I've restarted, but it keeps showing a clean screen and then after a while the stripes and band start coming through. Is that a battery issue? And when I slide up the light intensity button, the screen starts shivering.

    Jules JUSTE -

    And in my wife’s samsung replacing a battery is so easy. I’ve wasted a whole evening and now have broken cables. I get to buy a new screen and no phone for a couple of days. What $@$* is Apple pullig on us here? :(

    Jules JUSTE -

    Because Apple wants you to just buy a new phone instead of replacing parts.

    Bryan Remely -

    No doubt about that.

    Bryan Thompson -

    What can I do

    i tried to remove the LCD CABLE WITH A METAL SCISSOR.

    NOW IT IS NOT WORKING.

    HOW TO REPLACE IT. CAN ANYONE HELP IN THAT

    Faheem Sameer -

    At the bottom and top are some hardly noticeable white stripes and an after reconnecting the cables 3 times with no difference I connected the old screen again. There were no stripes there… The cables on the new screen don’t look damaged. I’ve repaired other phone screens and I think my display has an issue… what should I do now?

    fele felix -

    So what happens if you don’t disconnect the battery before dis/reconnecting the LCD connector? Can you damage something irreversibly? I have what looks like a bad display ertifacts, lines, overall bustedness…) and am not sure if because I didn’t disconnect the battery…. I was following the lady in the video instead of the guide like an idiot…. She didn’t disconnect the battery. :P

    Tom -

    Same problem here (didn't disconnect the battery) my screen is just blank. Need help urgently

    Amina -

    What’s the problem with my phone? It shows the Apple Logo but it shows a black screen after. What happened?

    Marcus Jones -

    Touch screen not working after replacing home button?

    Gershkies -

    I have verticals red lines on my newly replaced screen….why?

    Jami Russell -

    Battery successfully replaced but screen had vertical lines. Re-seated LCD connector which fixed the lines problem. Got VERY FRUSTRATED trying to “slide” the Touch ID bracket over the cable connector, which I never managed to do. At some point, the screen stopped “working” and is now solid black. Re-seating the LCD connector didn’t help. How can I tell if I accidentally broke something along the way? Can I use a multimeter to find out?

    Carol Ramelb -

    I did not watch the Video replacing the 5s battery , but i did follow the directions given. I missed one important detail prior to removing the battery. I did not see the loop at the end of the battery so I ran the pointed end of the spudger along the battery. It took a long time to remove the battery using heat and bending the battery until I could get the adhesive strips off. The directions were a real asset and next time I will watch the video. Thanks! Your staff are the bests.

    MichaelW Parkman -

    Beware, it is easy to ruin the sockets on the SE motherboard, far easier than the 5s. Be extra careful pulling these cables.

    chumblyf -

  21. ybwJ3ClSljERQvQy
    ybwJ3ClSljERQvQy
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    • Finally, disconnect the digitizer cable connector.

    When re-assembling, this is the most difficult cable to re-align and re-connect. A second set of hands is helpful. If not available, be patient and line up the connector carefully. Once reconnected, use care not to 'open' the front cover beyond about 85° to prevent pulling this one back off... If you do, you will have to power-cycle the phone (disconnect the battery) to get things working properly again.

    Pete H -

    I agree that this was the most difficult step during reassembly. I was trying to use the various tools, but shredded up some of the foam padding on the back of the connectors. After struggling with this for ~20 minutes, I realized just pressing each connector down gently with the tip of my finger snapped each one into place rather easily, no tools necessary.

    ilsedorec -

    pure genius, this works

    Oliver Markl -

    Reassembly—It’s all about the SNAP!

    I had the last-which-becomes-first connector down. Went to the second, and heard a very satisfying SNAP! Then, I became paranoid. Did the first connector snap? I don’t know?!? How did I put it down? What was that motion? What’s the level of the socket with its surroundings? Frack! I undid both, and the last connector gave a satisfying SNAP, when I disconnected it. HAHA. So now, I was paying close attention. I felt the level of the sockets, studied the Mondrian-like composition, and listened for the SNAP.

    xtian -

    xtian you king!

    IT REALLY IS ALL ABOUT THE SNAP

    After disconnecting and reconnecting the entire phone several times, my digitizer/touch screen still wasn’t working properly. In the end, it was all because I didn’t get the SNAP, which is the most important thing, especially with THIS connector. If you don’t hear the SNAP with this, it almost certainly won’t have worked. First time I did… hey presto!

    stick972 -

    Had to try 4 times until I finally got it right, I would say that less than 80° works well for this step, just take your time and be patient with the screws

    hermosillaignacio -

    It should be noted somewhere around these steps that all but one of these connections get removed.

    The connection that is left goes to the Power Button, the Mute Switch, and the Volume Buttons. This connection is on the bottom left, below the LCD power connection.

    This connector was not supposed to be removed, and I removed all of them as a force of habit.

    Once removed, it seems I removed part of the other half of the connector along with the first half.

    This has left my customer's iPhone functional, but none of the buttons, besides Home Button/TouchID), work.

    In the long run, this is not a huge issue, as AssistiveTouch can emulate physical button presses. I just figured it should be noted.

    Mikereilly2009 -

    Using the tool from the opposite side from what is shown here was many times easier (considering I had the front panel attach to a box with the rubber band trick)

    David -

    Agree, did the same thing.

    Andre Silva -

    After completing the battery replacement, when I turned the phone back on everything worked right except, the rear facing camera. It just shows a black screen. Does anyone know how I can fix this???

    Melissa -

    After I replaced my battery, I turned the phone back on and everything worked except the rear facing camera. It just shows a black screen now. Does anyone know what I did wrong??? I do I fix this???

    Melissa -

    I believe that you “bumped” the ribbon cable to the camera. I would open the phone back up and make sure it is making a good connection . In the picture above, the camera is the black square in the top right corner. Its connection is right below the spudger in this picture.

    Annette -

    For a better picture - The camera is connected by this ribbon:

    iPhone 5s Upper Component Cable Replacement

    STEP# 28

    Annette -

    after battery replacing the Volume and Sleep buttons don’t work anymore. What I did wrong and what I can do to resolve the problem?

    Thanks

    Nicola -

    Step one is recheck your connections. If those are all solid, did you need to pry the battery up to remove it? It’s possible that the prying damaged the cables. If you have photos, share them on our Answers Forum, and you might get some better, more specific help!

    Sam Goldheart -

    I believe that you “bumped” the connection that is right below the spudger in this picture (it is a smaller connection than the one with the spudger on it and right next to the battery). Try opening the phone back up and making sure that button pad has a good connection. It is also the connection in this picture:  iPhone 5s Upper Component Cable Replacement. STEP # 25.

    Annette -

    I accidentally unplugged the power cable and although the digitizer cable is difficult to get plugged in, the power plug is a you know what!

    mcr4u2 -

    Reattaching the digitalizer connector is a ##&&% if you ty to keep the innards 90 degrees to the case using a rubber band and a box/can. Hold the innards in your hand to line up this connector. Once that is done the other two connections can be done with stabilized innards banded to a box/can.

    Dorothy Campbell -

    After replacing the battery on my iPhone SE (2016), the flash on the camera, the flashlight and the vibrate mode did not work. When I took it apart, this button assembly cable was not tight down. iPhone 5s Upper Component Cable Replacement. STEP #25. It is also the connection right below the spudger in the picture. The smaller on close to the battery.

    Pushing it tight down and reassembly fixed all problems.

    Annette -

    After replacing the battery the touch screen doesn't work?? How do I fix this?

    SHVXIA -

  22. NuEkLbmO2RQlIvKY
    • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

    I replaced my old battery with the one I bought here in iFixit. I replaced the battery according to the instructions of this guide (Using a guitar string did the trick when removing the battery) and finally assembled the sensor ribbon. Turned on the phone and SURPRISE! Error, Touch ID Does Not Work. I was disappointed, in the most part because I was extremely careful, it's not my first repair, and I did not break the ribbon, the Home Button was working properly.

    I spent 4 hours re-seating the ribbon and putting in place the metal bracket.

    For you guys, who have lost Touch ID but didn't break the sensor flex cable AND the Home button works, I thing I have found a SOLUTION:

    As you can see in the picture (link below), a grounding Tip under the screw MUST be in THIS POSITION. If misaligned it will not work. Mine was misaligned during the display disassembly (STEP 16) and this was the solution. A smile returned to my face.

    IMG LINK:

    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1608...

    Oscar Vera -

    Odd..my Touch ID stopped working after I replaced the battery too and I did not harm the connector cable at all and the bracket was snug in position. Then randomly 2 days later it started working again with all my fingerprints remembered. Weird.

    Bob smith -

    Dear Oscar,

    I am very interested in your comment but the photo is not available any more. Could you send the updated link?

    Thank you very much,

    Alex

    Alex -

    The link to your photo is still not available. I do not understand which screw is being referred to associated with the fingerprint sensor.

    Toby Parnell -

    To anybody wondering what the picture was, Internet Archive saved it. You can find it here: https://web.archive.org/web/201606120038...

    It’s also the same picture as the 2nd picture in Step 23.

    Bryan Remely -

    Bryan Remely thank you so much. It’s comment threads like this and contributors like you that make the internet such a valuable tool.

    WILL D -

    why cant u disconnect the lcd and just put the new one in reverse from step 16? wgy to step 32

    Cameron Shelley -

    When you get the old screen off, check the frame edge where the digitizer rests. Mine was caked with gunk that had accumulated there from use. I gently used the tip of a spudger while holding the phone upside-down-ish and scraped out the gunk. Holding it upside-down kept the gunk from falling into the phone.

    Sheldon Carpenter -

    thanks for that... I didn't even notice it until I saw your comment.

    Brian Hayes -

    I’m completely confused about removing the connectors to the screen. It looks to me as though the battery could come out with the screen still attached. How am I wrong?

    Lance -

  23. oyk5HotlCo5J3bch
    • Remove the two screws securing the upper component bracket:

    • 4.0 mm Phillips #000

    • 2.3 mm Phillips #000

    • It is imperative that the right screws are inserted into their respective holes. Otherwise it may cause severe damage to the LCD during reassembly.

    when reassembling, getting bracket back on can be tough. There is a tiny tab which is on the top left of the braket in the picture that can become easily bent. Make sure this is at 90 degrees to the bracket so that it can slide into a small hole to the left of the camera opening, which is used to secure the top left of the bracket to the phone.

    copeconsultancy -

    I am doing the repair of the screen (replacing the screen itself with keeping all speakers, camera, etc. from the old one) and there is a very interesting behavior. If I am connecting my screen with front speaker connected - the screen does not works. If I am connecting it without front speaker (and without the bracket) - screens works well.

    Does anybody experienced such situation?.. Just wondering, how speaker can prevent screen from working?..

    sfai88 -

  24. tAU5pFVFBmP2yV4J
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    bDYNuquRDMEIVWEq
    • Orient the phone as shown, with the home button on top and the earpiece speaker on bottom.

    • Gently dislodge the clip, near the bottom left corner of the earpiece speaker bracket, outwards from its recess on the front panel assembly.

    • Do not pry with excessive force, as the earpiece speaker bracket is fragile and malleable.

    • With a set of tweezers, shift the bracket to the left to unclip it.

    I have found that the shield over the speaker needs to be reassembled precisely if transferring to a new screen. There is very little clearance for the vibrating motor to whip around and if the shield is even a smidge shifted towards it, it will block it and not vibrate. Just something to check when done.

    Matt Endress -

    Wow, thanks for this comment, this saved my hide. I suspected that I was a bit offset after reattaching the shield and sure enough it was slightly hitting the vibrator. It took a while but I was able to get the shield all the way to the left by hooking the little metal clip on the left side of the shield under some plastic that its supposed to go under. (Recall that when you take off the shield you have to slide it out a bit to the right.) This shield and all the stuff under it is very difficult to get right when closing up the phone.

    jonl -

    So the ear speaker in the new screen/digitizer is not real and I have to put the original camera, sensor, etc in?

    raveencarter -

    Images are broken (not displayed). iFixit please fix the images.

    Roman -

  25. H4uYlVtUHZQkpseb
    • Remove the bracket from the display.

  26. hES5kvmJWOYCBliL
    hES5kvmJWOYCBliL
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    • Remove the earpiece speaker with a set of tweezers.

    • If you use your fingers, be very careful not to touch the gold contacts on the front panel. Finger oil can prevent good contact.

  27. 2mM3AcLVRSViFhU1
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    • To replace the earpiece speaker, it is easiest to install the speaker and bracket together:

    • Place the earpiece speaker bracket over the speaker so that it fits snugly in its housing.

    • Slide the left hook of the bracket into the notch above the top left corner of the front facing camera.

    • Rotate the bracket so it lays flat on the rear case, aligning the two screw holes. Press the bracket into place, ensuring the hook on the right side of the metal bracket latches onto the display.

    Trad: Para substituir o alto-falante do fone de ouvido, é mais fácil instalar o alto-falante eo suporte juntos:

    Coloque o suporte do alto-falante do fone de ouvido sobre o alto-falante para que fique ajustado em sua caixa.

    Deslize o gancho esquerdo do suporte no entalhe acima do canto superior esquerdo da frente frente câmera.

    Gire o suporte de modo que ele fica plano na caixa traseira, alinhando os dois furos de parafuso. Pressione o suporte no lugar, garantindo que o gancho do lado direito do suporte metálico fique travado no mostrador.

    Maximiliano Fischer -

    This step is skipped during disassembly.

    dec59us -

    If you’re having trouble getting this all together, especially if the adhesive has worn off of the earpiece speaker contact cable, try putting on the earpiece speaker first, and then putting the bracket on over it. I found this much easier than the described procedure.

    Calion -

    Just took out the earpiece out of my iPhone SE screen and put it into my iPhone 5s screen assembly. Which I will be using on my iPhone SE. Good stuff

    Alexander -

  28. wo11rHKcVunCKT63
    • This step requires removing the front facing camera and sensor cable from your front panel assembly.

    • The front facing camera and sensor cable is adhered to the display assembly with mild adhesive.

    • Using an iOpener to soften the adhesive will help safely remove it. Follow our iOpener instructions to use it.

    If you just want to get underneath the LCD plate, e.g. to clean water/drinks that got in there, skip to step 34. There's no need to peel off those connectors or use the iOpener heat. Here's a photo: http://imgur.com/AKlFWed

    Dan Dascalescu -

    In my case, my front facing camera was just foggy, and I suspected dust had got in there (was correct in the end). In this step I had to remove the shield (which you can see still attached in Step 16), which is over the camera itself. It was then possible to gently lift the camera out of it's socket and clean.

    Robert Colvin -

    Robert -You were able to lift the camera just by itself? I would think the cable doesn't have any extra slack to allow the camera to move without detaching the cable on one end.

    Paul Astrachan -

    I had a foggy front camera too due to lots of dust ingress into the front camera housing. This was clearly visible in the front camera lens above the earpiece aperture - it was white instead of the pinpoint of blue lens. The best way to lift without the tricky lifting of the entire camera assembly is to peel back the large black sticky pad attached to the back of the metal display shield. Then you can roll the camera lens and proximity sensor out of the way and carbon fibre brush or air blast the dust out.

    Simon -

    Quick tip: if you can't afford/wait for/don't want the iOpener, filling a small portion of an ankle cut cotton sock with rice (to about the size of a golf ball), tying it closed, and putting it in the microwave for about 25-30 seconds can work just as well!

    ndauphin583 -

    I used a cherry stone pillow to heat up the display. I though it could be nearly the same as the iOpener one. It worked out very well

    Denis Kiesel -

    Do not skip this step. The proximity sensor is very easy to peel off the flexible circuit board if the adhesive isn't loosened.

    Cedric -

    I always use UNDU adhesive remover instead of heat. Works great for all adhesively mounted parts. I have used on numerous iphones and an iPad. If the glue stays stuck to the right part, then it is reusable still sticky when the UNDU dries out. When used on Home/TouchID button, it made the rubber membrane soft and misshapen, but it returned to normal shape when it dried out.

    3M thin VHB tape 5908 can be used to replace any needed little sticky bits.

    B Louis -

    If you don’t have a heating pad, a hair dryer or heatgun on a low setting also works well for heating up this area.

    markfiorentino -

    Here an important tip no one thought to include: Opposed to other connectors, this one happens to be Paper Thin!

    Yes! Do consider that, prior to prying the entire lens out of the housing!

    Srsly iFixit?? why do i always need to destroy one model every device repair attempted (here)??!

    c0BRA -

  29. vcmHBFNNakbNSun2
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    menm4KM1kbIMBUAy
    • Using the edge of a set of tweezers or a metal spudger, gently pry the earpiece speaker contact cable up, to separate this portion of the camera and sensor cable from the adhesive below.

    • Only pry directly under the earpiece speaker contacts—there are sensors and microchips that can be damaged by prying elsewhere.

    People, we carefull while removing, IFIXIT guys are not being aware of putting in the guide about the really easy way you can brick the cable. from the contacts down there is a sensor that will come loose easily from the cable if not pryed up! i dont know why they didnt put this HUGE in the guide.

    Alma -

    Hernan,

    I have bricked two of these cables now. Can you give me a step by step approach to removing the proximity sensor cable....I don't know what I'm doing wrong. I insert a flathead screwdriver underneath the part of the cable that doubles back and lift from there. What do you recommend?

    Thank you,

    sachock -

    I got stuck on this step for a while. The cable itself is really thin and I thought it had a piece of plastic underneath it but this is actually part of the display assembly and not the cable.

    warren5236 -

    Yeah, I kept applying more heat only to realize the same thing. The gold contacts are sitting on a very thin flexible plastic strip that you need to peel up.

    jonl -

    I also kept trying to remove the plastic too… so thin film to remove only.

    turo -

    The trick is to place the tool more to the left than it is shown in the picture, and then work slowly towards the right.

    Julia Niksen -

  30. sv2AweHZ5HEcZWfI
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    kSTMZv33yrg6aLbe
    • Use the point of a spudger to lift the ambient light sensor and proximity sensor out of their recess in the display assembly.

    • There is a small, square plastic and metal holder for the proximity sensor. This holder is essential for the proximity sensor to function correctly.

    • If replacing the proximity sensor make sure that the holder remains adhered to the back of the display. If it comes off with the old proximity sensor, remove it from the old sensor and use a tiny bit of adhesive to re-attach it to the back of the display.

    This step doesn't give complete information.

    The proximity sensor is adhered to the frame and must be loosened CAREFULLY and SEPARATELY before applying any pressure to the ribbon itself. It is extremely easy to tear the sensor from the ribbon, meaning when you're on a call with the phone next to your face, any touch will "press" an on-screen button. Look up images of these components to see exactly where they are placed and what they look like.

    mikemckinnon -

    Hello! I dont know why but I cant make the proximity sensor work. My front camera is working... I don't know what i'm doing wrong, can you help me with that?

    jesusbe -

    Under the proximity sensor, there is an little white sticker.

    You have to put this on to the new screen,

    otherwise the proximity sensor will not work properly.

    To get it off, try to heat the spot (for example with the iOpener).

    FaKlein -

    Yep, brilliant piece of advice. I would have missed the white diffusing paper if not for this comment. Thanks!

    jonl -

    Thanks, I would have miss that one !

    K8L -

    thank you! this is a HUUUUGE note.

    palatucci -

    proximity sensor holder, the one with the half metal square should be centered on the two small translucent openings of the front panel otherwise it doesn't work. Mine was misaligned I had to remove and glue it again to make it work.

    osmanalpay -

    The bracket for the proximity sensor is critical. some more detailed pictures and guidance would be helpful here. After attempting to replace the screen with a new screen that did not come with the proximity sensor, buying a new proximity sensor bracket, etc. I finally gave up and bought another screen that included the front-facing camera and proximity sensor pre-installed.

    Jay Seaman -

    also, make sure you get the tiny rubber gasket that the prox sensor fits into snugly against the display. when i popped the sensor off, the gasket stayed behind, and i couldn't get the sensor to fit properly in the new display. i checked the old one again and saw the little rubber gasket that contours to the front camera lens opening on the display assembly. pulled it off with tweezers, and used it to get the prox sensor properly seated on the new display. i wish i'd taken a picture of it, but, well, my phone was in pieces in front of me.

    palatucci -

    I recently replaced a broken screen. The screen had shattered in the earphone area, and since the phone was new to me I didn't know about the camera clip and proximity sensor holder. These parts are just a few dollars online. I believe they are essential. My front camera has visible drift and the proximity sensor doesn't work.

    saifalgianfar -

    I also had to remove the tiny black rubber gasket and move it to the new display. This was not easy. I also had lots of trouble getting the proximity sensor back in place during reassembly. I seemed to have another connector near the camera that had to be reconnected, but isn’t mentioned in this guide. More pictures on a white phone might make it easier to see all the tiny parts in this area.

    smacdvm -

    Make sure your new screen does not have the plastic bit that holds the proximity sensor before you try to put the one from your old screen in. Mine came off with the proximity sensor, and I had a devil of a time figuring out why the proximity sensor wouldn’t seat.

    Calion -

    The pictures and the text for this step are simply not adequate to properly illustrate the delicacy of the task - much more detailed pictures showing the removal of the light and proximity sensors is needed and also a very clear warning in the main text (like this) - it is very easy to unintentionally tear the proximity sensor off the cable assembly, destroying the proximity function and thus requiring a complete new front camera / light sensor / proximity sensor cable assembly !

    Jesper Nielsen -

  31. bDFdNcaIcXJVLKtj
    bDFdNcaIcXJVLKtj
    lWMRPGAWWEfbolUJ
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently peel the front-facing camera portion of the cable away from the display assembly.

    When reassembling, I found an unknown, small black plastic piece on my work surface. It wasn't anything that I'd removed in any step. It had a curved section and a small tab, the whole thing was less that 1/4". Nothing in any of the instructions mentions it.

    I finally figured out it was supposed to go just to the right (while looking at the open back of the screen unit) of the hole where the camera fits. The semi circle hugs the side of the camera when you reinstall.

    This had me going nuts for about 30 minutes. Hopefully this info can help you avoid that.

    Mike Yagi -

    That rubber piece should be put back on the ambient light sensor (pink, purple). Like you said, it hugs against the front camera.

    Didier Daniel -

    I gotta say, reassembling this assembly it very fiddly and painstaking. There are lots of little parts that need to fit into other little parts while engaging yet other little parts. Seriously, and exploded diagram of all these little parts would be helpful! I took my time, used a very bright light and a magnifying hood while disassembling and reassembling and it really helped.

    Sheldon Carpenter -

    The small black piece is part of the front facing camera housing, can I also point out to make sure that you remove the clear plastic camera lens housing from the old screen too, and make sure that this and the small rubber housing are placed onto the new screen as these are what hold the lens, the microphone and the ambient light in place. There maybe a small amount of glue around the lens housing which needs to be removed with a sharp blade, please take care when doing this.

    Roberto Enrieu -

    Thanks Mike and Didier, great help !

    tahiruysal -

    What is that thing for? I replaced the section for my brother and his cheap repair part came without that thing to stick on and it seems to work…

    Jokl92 -

  32. fmIbSuBxf1khmtaA
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    • If you are reattaching the same shield plate to a new display, there is no need to peel the cable assembly off the LCD shield plate. Skip this step.

    • Carefully peel the cable assembly off of the LCD shield plate to remove it from the display.

    • Be careful not to grab the digitizer cable while peeling up the front facing camera and sensor assembly cable.

    I would skip Step 24. Why would you remove the very delicate cable assembly from the LCD shield plate only to reattach it to the same shield plate after fastening the shield plate to your new display assembly...

    kevindfrye -

    Indeed. I just did one today and realized it would have been fine to leave it. Better even.

    Paul Jerome -

    Only minor thing: It's step 25 you should skip. I replaced my wife's last night and skipped it. Skipping Step 25 was definitely a wise thing to do, since you're simply putting it right back on the same piece once you put the phone back together.

    pbpope -

    Does anyone know what the copper sticker is for? I accidentally ripped mine apart trying to get it off, it tore easier than paper, being that I didn't even notice I did it until I noticed it was ripped. I also thought to myself, why the heck did I remove this thing when I didn't need to. I've been trying to google it. it might be "iPhone 5S Rear Camera Cooling Copper Adhesive Sticker" but there is no reference as to how big that is. Anyway, I assembled it as normal and the phone works perfectly fine. So any help would be appreciated.

    aaron -

    I got the same problem with the copper sticker,it has been tore! Is anybody can explain what does it for and where can i get it?!! Because the phone not working properly. Any help would be appreciated.

    Mark -

    Didn`t tear it , but there is no use in removing it since reusing LCD protector later, !@#$%^ me off. :-)

    eriwolde -

    Why remove the copper sticker? Why not leave it attached since your are going to reuse LCD protector. Remove the home button before the camera and light sensor and save the LCD protector for last with everything attached to it.

    Marshall -

    I thirdly will ask for what the copper sticker is for!? I thought some kind of grounding?? I tore mine and the front facing camera is fuzzy now. It looks grainy. Almost like it isn't grounded good. ANY advice here would be appreciated.

    Thanks

    Kent -

    Agreed. Skip step 25. I can't fathom why it's in these otherwise excellent instructions.

    leanit -

    Agreed - you don't need to do this step

    kevinhay -

    Also skipped this step.

    jonl -

    I tore mine also...wish I would have come here and read these helpful tips first.

    Michael Huber -

    The copper sticker is some kind of ground connection, and is therefore probably very important given the frequencies present inside the phone, and that the phone is itself a radio transmitter and receiver. I too followed the instructions and removed it but I was super careful and didn't tear it, and was able to reattach it. I used the spudger to smooth it and ensure that it makes good contact with the shield. It didn't even occur to me to skip the removal step! But I agree with that advice.

    Mark Cousins -

    Replacement Front Camera and Sensor Cable didn't have such sticker. Where this sticker should be reattached?

    fedor -

    step 32:while removing that piece on the LCD shield plate , I sheared that cable which is connected to the shield plate, so I skiped it and completed fixing, after that I found out that my iphone is not working .. I don't understand the problem from this cable or from the new screen ..

    please help ..

    email: maamoon95@hotmail.com

    maamoon95 -

    I phone 5s. During peeling off the shield plate from the LCD plate i damage it. What parts should i buy to replace this shield plate? lsanevich@gmail.com

    Sanevich -

    I did the same as the above to people what part do i need to replace to fix this. I think this is causing my touch portion to not work. My email is camgoins23@gmail.com

    Cameron Goins -

    I also ripped the copper cable. However when I booted the repaired phone without it, it wouldn’t boot. It was stuck in a loop. To fix this and it worked for me, hold the home button and power button until the phone display turns on again

    Josh Nugent -

    What is the sticky plastic that I am peeling off called I tore that. Can I replace it?

    Tabatha Hurley -

    If you stuck as me with attaching copper to back of the camera try:

    1. put camera into the slot

    2. move cables in that way to see metal back of the camera

    3. copper should be able to stick into the camera in ‘natural’ way

    Bartosz Kolada -

    In Mine,it is attached to the head of the can.like it was connected to it.

    cesar-kramer -

  33. FJqM4WUwgyXFASW4
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    • Unscrew the single captive Phillips #000 screw securing the home button cable.

    • The captive screw is fastened to the home button cable by a spring contact backing. During reassembly, ensure the contact is in the correct orientation—on the side of the screw nearest the LCD.

    • If your replacement part does not have this captive screw and spring contact, you will need to transfer them to the new cable.

    The tiny "captive spring" came off of the back of the screw and I struggled to get it to go back on. I ended up placing the spring over the hole where the screw goes in, with the holes lined up then putting the screw through both.

    Also, the replacement screen I received from ifixit.com was slightly different than the original. The small metal tab where this screw goes in was not slightly bent downward like the original. It didnt make any difference. The screw went back in as normal.

    Nathan -

    Hi,

    The home button doesn't work ?

    Help

    Sultan -

    Home button not working (but touch ID still works) is a symptom of the metal backing plate rotated by 180°. Home button will appear to work when phone is open but will stop working when screen is clicked into phone shell.

    Father Ted -

    BE CAREFUL HERE.

    This so called 'captive' screw is not very captive at all and I have nearly lost it twice now.

    If it does fall out, look closely at the pictures to figure out the orientation of the grounding finger.

    Ben -

    Two things - As mentioned, the replacement screen is a bit different. Mine had a screw where an empty hole should have been for the "captive screw".. a bit confusing at first. Just remove it and carry on.

    Second, if you're an occasional nunce like me, you might be confused by the little tab/prong/raised guy next to the screw. After you've screwed the "captive screw" in, that thing should be hovering above it/the metal plate of the screen, and should look just like the removal picture.

    easleyjs -

    Out of curiosity, what happens if the "spring contact backing" is not in the correct orientation?

    I re-assembled my phone without paying any attention to this, and it seems to work OK... maybe I coincidentally got it right without trying. What would happen if the contact was facing the wrong way?

    wilsonmichaelpatrick -

    Hi Help !!! The home buton doesn't work anymore !

    Chris91177 -

    what if you lose the spring contact. does the phone work without it? if not, where can I find a spring contact?

    Andreas Kouroupis -

    I have this same problem. I lost mine but found the screw where can I order one from?

    kristlewomack -

    I also have this problem, do any home buttons come with this piece?

    fdsajky675 -

    Hello. I lost the little 'spring clip'. My phone is working erratically. Could that be anything to do with the cip not being in place? Thanks

    ggough60 -

    I am pretty sure I had replaced the captive spring wrong (didn't see the second image until I have completed the project). But the phone seems to have a perfectly working home button now.

    Alan Kang -

    This screw/spring combo fell off right before reassembling. Good luck and found the screw again. So my advice: Put a tape around the screw/spring or dismount them from the cable and put them in a safe place. The spare screw delivered with the display was too short.

    Tom Vee -

    I thought I lost the spring contact, but it actually just got rotated under the section of cable that the captive screw is attached to. The spring contact should be "captive" at the same place the screw is so it should'nt get lost too easily.

    Anand Varma -

    On the phone I worked on, the screw wouldn’t separate from the “captive spring.” LEAVE IT! It’s more trouble than it’s worth to remove it, Just reuse the screw it will make the re-install on the new screw much easier. Also use the tweezers to hold the spring in the correct orientation as you screw it back on.

    Benjamin Finley -

    During reassembly, I wasn’t sure wether the spring contact backing was beneath or above the cable. It is hard to see in the 2nd image in step 23.

    But in step 24 the 2nd image shows that the spring contact backing is right under the cable.

    So the spring contact backing goes first, then the cable and then of course the screw.

    Wolfgang Bauer -

    For the life of me, I cannot get this screw out. I have been using the same screw driver and nothing has been working.

    Warren Binder -

    I think there is one step missing here which shows a picture with the correct position of the ‘spring contact backing’. Consider the part which has a hole in the middle: the flat part is sided to top, making the round part sided to bottom. This is a clear picture of the ‘spring contact backing’: http://www.icellulartech.com/iphone-5s-h... (if the link is broken by the time you see it, type the name in Google).

    Andre Silva -

    I had a problem when reassembling, I removed this little screw and the spring contact from my original screen to put them in the new one, but the new one had already its own screw, soI just removed it and tried to put the screw from my original screen into the new one but it didn’t work, and the worst thing of all is that I lost the screw that came with the new screen and that’s the only one that works.

    Elías Eduardo Reyes Vázquez -

    May seem silly to say this…. however it might prevent some confusion for others.

    my replacement screen had a screw that needed to be removed in order for the captive screw and home button cable to be secured.

    Dean Allan Land -

    When I unscrewed it, the spring contact part moved too & the little prong rotated under the cable. I thought (mistakenly) that this was its intended position. The screw also came loose, which made reassembly difficult until I saw that 2nd photo above and realized what the orientation was supposed to be.

    The order is screw -> cable hole -> spring contact -> screw hole.

    The rounded edge of the spring contact should face the bottom of the phone to match up with the hole’s rounded edge. The perpendicular ‘lip’ should sit flush against the metal plate. The prong should stick up toward where the screen will be. Really, there’s only 1 possible way to put it on correctly, but without seeing the correct orientation first, or if the screw detaches from the cable, it’s kind of a pain to get them back together.

    seijihuzz01 -

    With my phone I needed to use a PH0000 screwdriver. The provided PH000 (and my own from another screwdriver set) was too large. Indeed, every Phillips head screw in my phone needed the PH0000 and not the PH000 driver.

    rhowehmd -

    It is MUCH EASIER if you leave the screw ATTACHED TO THE CABLE. Just gently unscrew until you are able to detach the cable. The screw will stay attached to the cable unless you pull it out, which will help a lot in reassembly. Just make sure, as you handle the cable in the next steps, that the screw doesn’t fall off!

    Athanasius Pernath -

    Hello my home button only works sometimes, touch id works perfectly.

    Can you give me some hint, I already opened it to see if everything seemed okay, and it does. But it doesn’t work.

    I wonder were does the cable or contact of the home button are connected to. How does it work?

    (usually to be able to fix smt you need to know how it should be working)

    thanks for advices

    qiplayer -

    CAPTIVE SCREW “SPRING” POSITIONING:

    1) Line up the round part with the bracket on the back of the screen.

    2) (On my SE model, at least) there’s a small lip that sits on the -left- side of the bracket.

    3) With the screen laying flat, the display facing your work mat, the “spring”/little raised lever should point up towards you.

    Order from bottom (closest to desk) to top (closest to you):

    screen bracket > spring > home button cable > screw.

    This was the hardest part of the repair for myself, using only the tools from the SE screen repair bundle.

    Good luck!

    Jordon B -

    My home button sticks up ‘proud’ of the glass which leaves a sharp edge on the outside rim of the button. Is there a fix for this?

    Robert Stroud -

    Help me It dosent Work

    Doktor Crimson -

    The screw and clip came un done and i don’t know how any of you managed to get that laughably small clip and screw back together. After hours of trying, I gave up. It’s not worth this much hassle just to fix up an old iphone. You’d have to be a &&^&^$^ robot to be able to put a screw that tiny through a loop, force it into a clip, then line it up with a screw hole. All without using your fingers because your fingers are 500x the size of the head of the screw. I wish I didn’t just waste money buying a new screen and battery for this old phone.

    John M -

    For the love of god, is it REALLY necessary to have that super small clip on the screwdriver to be there? It popped out when i unscrewed that piece and it’s been a good hour since I’m trying to put it back its position, it is impossible, i cannot do it, somebody please respond, is it vital for it to be there? I’m getting very annoyed!

    Juan Jimenez -

    The little tab/clip that goes onto the screw must stick UP. See the extra pics. I suspect it needs to make contact with the back of the phone.

    If the clip comes off the screw, put it back on the screw first. The hole in this clip has little tabs that require you to screw the screw into this clip; it will catch on the threads. THEN put them both in the hole through the plastic strip and into the phone chassis. PITA!

    Gavin Stokes -

  34. QDvM1t1n4RRxj1wc
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    • Fold the home button cable down, out of the way of the home button bracket.

    Aiuto, ho sostituito il touch screen e non mi funziona più il riconoscimento dell’impronta digitale (touch id). Chi può aiutarmi. Grazie

    Orazio Coccia -

  35. WDMEDepEZtkgwZLn
    • Remove the two 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws from the home button bracket.

    Screws are stuck...! no way that I can unscrew them :-(

    Sumit Bhatnagar -

    I had this issue, screws were so tight my screwdriver was starting to strip them. I managed to get one side off by applying massive pressure. I then wiggled the plate around to loosen the other side.

    mrnoxious -

    Hi every body! I would know much pressure the iphone 5s 's lcd can resist approximately !!? Have you ever stand on it?this happend for me , and in some positions under the direct sun light when the screen is ON , it seems that there is some pits on lcd ! ;-( please help ! If you had the same case! Help Thank You***

    Bryan -

    I could not get a phillips #000 to release these, but a phillips #00 did the trick perfectly. South African version of the phone, if that makes a difference.

    Andrew -

    these are the tightest screws I've ever seen in my life. Tried applying massive pressure and just stripped the screws. Not sure what to do now

    Bob Mcroy -

    Use the #00 Philips on these screws

    leeprobert -

    Went and bought a #00 when the #000 didnt work. Still no luck. About to lose my mind with frustration.

    Mike Manning -

    I could not get the 000 or the 00 to work, therefore I tried a #1 flat head from the kit and it worked like a charm.

    Sean O'Donohoe -

    Sometimes just switching to another screwdriver might help. I noticed that the screwdrivers you often get with displays assemblies are just crap. Invest in a good one.

    Didier Daniel -

    I was successful by using a 1.5 Phillips screwdriver head from a Stronger toolkit TK-LA40-38PCS

    Elaine Palmer -

    Glad I’m not the only one I guess. Using insane pressure for such small parts I was able to get the one not originally covered by the cable out. Then the trick of wiggling the bracket loosened the other one which was somewhat stripped by my earlier attempts with 00 and 000 Phillips. What a scare

    Bill Pennock -

    I had success using the J000 screw from the iFixit Pro kit

    Kalin Fetvadjiev -

    Both of the screws have blue loc-tite on them. Best to make sure you have the right screw driver for the job. Also, if you have the “iopener”, you can apply a little “heat”. That will loosen up the loc-tite.

    Dean Allan Land -

    these screws are impossible to get out…

    Cameron Bell -

    With my phone I needed to use a PH0000 screwdriver. The provided PH000 (and my own from another screwdriver set) was too large. Indeed, every Phillips head screw in my phone needed the PH0000 and not the PH000 driver.

    rhowehmd -

    I had issue with the brand of the screwdriver. A cheap “iphone compatible micro crosspoint” screwdriver removed the outer screws with grace, but it started stripping the home button screws. Same happened for some other Chinese brand precision driver collection with PH 00 and PH 000. With one last hopeless try, I found another PH 00 in the shed (it says Japan, but no clue what the brand is), and the stripped screw unscrewed at the lightest touch. I believe it's not tightened hard but we've been using a poor screw driver without a snug fit. It's extremely difficult to tell if the driver is any good until you try it. Visually comparing the good and the bad driver I can't tell any difference at all.

    Harmony867 -

    Ich bekomme die schraube nicht auf gibt es da einen Trick ?

    Doktor Crimson -

  36. rrAfWvQYkUxNMPyn
    • Remove the home button bracket from the display assembly.

    For those having problems transferring their home button to the new display assembly: When installing the home button into the new display assembly I had the problem that the bracket kept the button "pressed down" because the button did not sink into the front panel completely. After removing the home button and reassuring that there was no dust or similar particles preventing the home button from sitting correctly, I still had to push gently to get the home button into the correct position.

    larscmueller -

  37. IFaHECSdIntbCfDl
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    • Wedge the the tip of a spudger underneath the home button cable assembly.

    • The home button cable is affixed by mild adhesive.

    • Gently work the spudger underneath the cable to separate the home button cable from the front panel assembly.

    • Do not remove the home button yet, as it is still attached to the front panel assembly.

    It can be easier to come in from the other way than shown in the image, near the home button.

    Calion -

    I confirm, for me it was way easier from the home button. But you must be careful as it’s easy to pull the cable more strongly from that side (more effective, but less control)

    Athanasius Pernath -

    I think this is easier to do with the blue ifixit opening tool (this guy: iFixit Opening Tool) than the spludger. It gets underneath the cable more easily.

    Jonathan Stucklen -

    The flat end of a halberd spudger worked well for me.

    Andrew Gilbert -

    As mentioned above, coming from the left side (closer to the actual home button) worked better for me. I gently pried under the round tab on the upper left of the home button cable assembly, which was the only part not glued down.

    Ize -

    Mein Home Button ist kaputt gegangen was soll ich ruhen und ist das schlimm

    Sim Aben -

  38. s5spGQGwjK26BBE5
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    • If necessary, remove the tape over the home button on the front side of your cracked front panel assembly.

    • Gently push the top left corner of the home button up away from the front panel.

    • Do not push the home button all the way through—you only need to get a corner free, so that you can pry it free with a spudger.

    • This membrane is very thin. If you feel like you're going to tear the button, apply heat and try again.

    I used UNDU adhesive remover on the membrane. It swelled and distorted and came and recovered to original shape when the UNDU dried out. Problem is getting more adhesive to replace the existing thin adhesive.

    Without the adhesive , the home button protrudes from the glass and wobbles round a lot. I used a relatively wide piece of 3M 5908 VHB tape cut out to fit, which stuck to the metal base of the home button. This is not ideal, as it makes the button harder to press, but it does seal the home button from dust and water. Some thin strips to just adhere to the membrane would be OK, but not be environmentally sealed. Next time I would use the VHB strips and tiny dots of silicone in the corners. (Syringe is good for precise silicone and the VHB tape holds everything flat and level while the silicone sets.)

    Transplanting the touch ID sensor is extremely tricky, but it did work. Buying the front screen including a home button might leave the adhesive to stick the old touchID sensor to the new screen.

    B Louis -

    The membrane seems very thin and I didn’t want to chance tearing it. I used a heat gun and applied gentle heat and pressure on the top left side. Eventually, the membrane came away cleanly without tearing and the adhesive was still tacky enough to hold it down on the new screen.

    edc -

  39. USJGsjYUVvHOiPT1
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    • Peel the home button the rest of the way off of the display by prying gently with a spudger.

    DO NOT skip this step, or you will damage the very gentle rubber hold around the home button, and that may result in a broken home button.

    Addison Rasmussen -

  40. ZrOdBarUnpBwcuHI
    • Remove the home button assembly from the front panel.

    Take a moment to clean any crud from the perimeter of the home button itself BEFORE reinstalling…

    finnik2d -

    Take a moment to clean off any crud from around the perimeter ring of the home button. Use a sewing needle for its sharpness to CAREFULLY pick away any debris. Makes a clean assembly for when re-assembling the button back into a new display module.

    finnik2d -

  41. PWP3GYWMfHiPTbQE
    • Remove the 2.7 mm Phillips #000 screw from the back of the display assembly.

  42. OMwTQsxRKmbNpktJ
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    • Remove two 1.2 mm Phillips screws from each side of the LCD frame (four total).

    • To avoid stripping the final screw, it may be helpful to first slightly loosen all four screws before removing any.

    screws are too tight, they won’t come out

    Cameron Bell -

  43. QcUAAYpjHQrqNGFL
    QcUAAYpjHQrqNGFL
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    • Remove the LCD shield plate from the display assembly.

    • The LCD and digitizer remains.

    Tip: If you're replacing with an aftermarket screen and it doesn't fit very well, sligtly trim the top and bottom edges of the plastic screen bezel (the edge facing inwards into the phone so that its not visible after assembly). You can also trim .25mm or so off the top slot protrusions that lead the screen into the housing. Lastly, if the screen assy is bulging or loose near the volume buttons, apply some thin double-sided tape to the screen assy metal brackets (the ones that slot into the housing). This will create a very tight fit, but allow removal if neccessary.

    Paul -

    i finished but now when I touch the screen nothing works??? how do I fix this?????

    Rahma A -

    how do you get the LCD off from the screen and put it on the new screen because I can that it shows you removing the LCD metal plate but not removing the LCD that’s under the LCD plate?? can anyone give me any ideas coz every time I look it up on the net it only shows me ppl replacing the whole screen im not after that.. on a iPhone 5

    Richard -

    I think you mean “how to get the LCD of the glass” you cannot remove it form the glass easilly as it is glued, you’ll just have to replace the entire front diplay assambly.

    Andrés Salan -

    Hi Richard,

    Andres is correct. The LCD is laminated onto the front glass, making non-repair shop repairs very difficult. You can check this video out to see what it would need, or search for “iPhone 5 glass only repair”.

    Arthur Shi -

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Sam Goldheart

Member since: 19/10/12

465332 Reputation

93 comments

FYI Vibrate motor

Just did one of these last night, worked perfectly except that the vibrate motor stopped working, took it back apart and realized that the little prong on the ear speaker cover sometimes gets bent a little with removal. I just pushed it back in and the vibrate motor then had enough room to work again. Make sure that you push it back in all the way first time unless you want to do more work than you have to! These phones have no space to spare!

Adrianne -

For some reason after doing this the home button seems to have sunk and requires a much much harder press for it to work. I think it's the adhesive? Any ideas?

Andrew G -

If the rubber gasket is not seated correctly, it may have wrinkle in it, thus hindering is action.

Fausto Lebron -

During reassembly be very, VERY careful when pressing the display assembly into the rear frame. Many displays are damaged because the phone was dropped and the rear frame hit a hard surface. The rear frame may be slightly bent or out of shape. When pressing the new display in place it might not fit easily and applying even light pressure can BREAK the new display assembly (I know from experience). Supper lame to get literally to the very last step and crack the new display. %&*#!!!

kevindfrye -

just happened to me i also got reboot logo stuck

arley alaniz -

so if your frame is bent, do you recommend not doing a screen replacement? or just be careful?

Tejus S -

yup. just happened to me as well

Rihards Olmanis -

I just finished replacing a 5S screen and everything seems to be working great except the touch ID function. I was extremely careful and nothing was ripped or torn. All the above steps were followed exactly. The home button functions perfectly but the scanner isn't responding at all. It doesn't even an error fingerprint......you put your finger on and nothing happens at all. I'm not sure if this means I just didn't secure the connector correctly or if something else is wrong. Any ideas?! Thanks!

johnmclaughlin86 -

John, I am a repair tech at a local phone fixing shop. You may have already fixed it, but after checking if its clipped in, do a hard reset at least 2-3 times. That's ALWAYS fixed it for me if the connector is securely fastened.

chubutta -

Touch ID was not working after screen replacement. When went into settings> touch ID & Passcode and turned iphone unlock on it would show failure. After doing a hard reset it worked perfectly.

MatthewPhipps -

I get a lot of flickering after replacement on the screens after doing 5s repairs. Is this do to defective LCDs or bad technique? I have been working with cell phones for a long time...but the amount of flickering screens I have been dealing with when doing 5s and 5c repairs is large. Any suggestions?

sachock -

could be because of resetting the connectors a lot. it will eventually go away

Joe Hernandez -

Did this last night. Very smooth process. It's advice on being careful around the home button removal is true. I took my time with it as the membrane is super thin. I also transferred the clear front camera plastic riser piece it was easy but not referenced in the guide

boss302beav -

Thanks for the warning y'all about the ambient light sensor and fitting the screen down without breaking it. I also used the camera riser and the other "riser" for whatever was right next to the light sensor? Either way I transferred them to the new screen and made sure each piece went in order from lowest to highest. EVERYTHING works! My screen was so cracked I actually had to pick out pieces because the suction cup wouldn't stick, that was fun. My advice.... GO SLOW! look around before you yanking things off. and finally put things back in order, it sounds elementary but if you do each of these things you should be fine. God Luck!

Nick H -

after everything that i done, the serene has many lines on it. feels suck

yma14 -

Check the LCD connection. Do a hard reset.

Josh Bacon -

I completed the screen replacement but now the iPhone is not charging at all. It shows the battery logo when plugged in at a thin red line and did not move witha whole night of being plugged in. Do I need to recheck something ?

Murali Varadarajan -

hard reset by holding power and home until iphone reboots

echow2001 -

I followed this guide and it all worked perfectly. You really do need to be careful when lifting the screen, as the ribbon cable is fragile. Also, I did move the front camera raiser from the old screen to the replacement screen, which was not mentioned in the guide but was mentioned by boss302beav, so thanks for the tip.

Adam -

Hi, work as a technician for a phone store and I have been fixing phones and computer for about 3 years now, last week I changed an LCD on an iPhone 5s and the screen just turns blue when it's coming on, the apple logo shows up but it doesn't come on just go blue and reboot anyone had this problem before please let me know thanks.

T3chboii -

re: 'blue screen' -- not a guaranteed workaround, but sometimes works to remove the EFI shield altogether if the order/size of the screws is forgotten/lost... Apple logo then blue screen

kgale4 -

What should I do if the screen is so horribly cracked that I can't good suction to lift the front?

Nate G -

My screen was shattered spectacularly. I used two overlapping pieces of clear package tape to make a smooth surface, and I was able to open it easily using the iSclack. I believe the iSclack also comes with iPhone-sized adhesive tape strips for exactly this purpose.

davisjan -

Put clear packing tape on the screen.

ohara44 -

Put masking tape on the glass and it should allow you to use the suction cup as usual.

pokeefe -

As some others stated, I did not remove the cable assembly from the shield either. It looks like it would be difficult to do without tearing.

Since I don't have a microwave, I couldn't use an iOpener. Instead I put a hair dryer on high and aimed it at the front of the screen for about 10 minute and was able to pop everything off. If you do this, don't do it near where you've taken the phone apart since the hair dryer will happily blow the screws you need for re-assembly far away.

When Re-assembling the whole thing, there are tabs at the top of the screen that need to fit into the top of the metal case for the whole thing to close. I found this to be one of the trickier parts - if they don't engage properly, and the rest of the case seats, the screen doesn't lie flat and you need to go back to the suction cup to separate it again. Look at the inside top of the old screen under a bright light before doing this and it will be easier to understand how it engages.

storminmike -

1. Make sure you have eye sight a surgeon would be jealous of, you will need it. It's difficult to believe how small those screws are till you get them out.

2. Buy the suction pliers. I tried the one suction cup and by God's grace didn't rip the cable right out. It was MUCH tighter than I imagined. I was being super careful and still it popped off with tremendous force. The clip flew off and amazingly the cable didn't snap.

3. Bright light, magnetic pad for the screws and lots of care you can do it.

RG Murray -

I completed the repair successfully, I did have problems trying to lift the cracked screen with the suction cup, one trick I did do was using a small paperclip inserted into the pentalobe screw hole and rocking it upwards to help lift the screen, once I got it lifted slightly I was able to insert the spudger into the bottom left were there is a small indentation that looks like it is used specifically for prying up on. I was able to then lift the screen up without using the suction cup.

ray g -

This guide worked very well! The hardest part was getting the front panel off using the suction cup. It was very hard to get a tight seal on a cracked screen. After that I got the rest! If you don't have an iOpener, a hair dryer works really well.

arustrugger -

I was very careful but not prepared for the force required to open the phone. I tore the home button cable and now have no touch ID. The iSclack would have been worth it, really wish I had purchased it. I had not realized that it's huge advantage was to prevent you from opening the phone all the way and tearing the cable I tore... The right tool for the job is always the right tool. Get it. Phone works great now, after getting a new home button and opening it another 2 times to properly seat the connectors. I could have sworn they were in. Do miss touch ID though....

Cornforth -

replaced Iphone 5s front panel. Cables attached easy, most everything was smooth disassembling and reassembling, but I could power up my cracked phone before, I cannot power it up now. Checked cables twice, not sure what the problem could be. Any suggestions?

docchameleon -

im in the same problem as you. Did you ever manage to get your iPhone working?

Dudefoxlive -

I completed this installation using this guide which was very helpful. However, the touch screen only works for a few minutes after the first start up. Works very smoothly for awhile, then the touch gets very insensitive, then no response on the touch.

I've reassembled it again making sure the ribbons are firmly connected. Again, it only works for a few minutes.

Any tips?

pedo1337 -

Good guide!:-)

Toni Palmer -

Ok.. I managed to successfully replace the cracked screen of my phone but.... the new scream has a lighter/yellowish halo in the upper-right corner... just below the bluetooth icon.

At first I thought it was maybe a poor quality replacement screen.. then I realised that it happened only when the screen is fully pushed in the phone case. I tried a few times to detach again the screen from the main body, and push it back again.. when detached it looks good enough, when pushed it the halo appears again... any clue if I might have done anything wrong or it's just a bad screen?

thanks!

guidoz -

Sounds like maybe something is pressing against the LCD? Make sure there's nothing pressing against that corner of the phone, check cable routing and adhesive, etc. If you're still having issues, you may want to check out our Answers forum! Good luck =)

Sam Goldheart -

I did that fix this weekend, For me the most difficult part was to remove the Upr speaker, front camera and looms assembly and to put it back in place prorperly on the new front panel. After re-installing everything, I recommmend to test on the screen to see if there is any trouble with the phone on (as mentioned in the guide I had some white lines, so I went back to plug again the connector. Finally the front speaker was propably damaged during the re-assembly as it is now working but with distorsion in the caller voice ! I guess headset and bluetooth devices will do from now on !

Benoit Manfreo -

It was the first time I tried to repair such an electronic device. Only managed it with the information given in the forum. Great job, thank you all! The display stayed black after the first re-assembly and the hint to disconnect the battery did the trick! Thanks again!

Barbara Brandner -

Does anyone encountered the issue that the touch screen is not working when placing iphone on an insulation surface?

ztong -

Managed to replace the screen following the above guide no problems. Still have them vertical lines (tried reconnecting LCD cable, disconnecting battery and several hard starts) and only other problem is my battery is now draining. Any ideas? Used to last at least a day, now I'm lucky if it lasts 6 hours. You can almost see it draining away.

Diane Stevens -

Just completed the replacement of my screen. The guide was very helpful as well as watching the video. To keep all the screws organized, I just drew a large picture of the inside of the phone on a piece of paper and made loops of clear packing tape and put them over the areas where I was going to remove parts. That way I could make sure each screw went back into the proper place. Took about an hour from start to finish. One tiny glitch, the screen isn't perfectly snugly down at the top of the phone, there is a little play. It is tight everywhere else. Oh well, no biggie. All good now.

Ed Colman -

I have a problem with the battery swelled 5s and the display was put in coores stripes etc , and when opened, deconectarlo no longer start. there any way to recover the flex cable?

InfoMario -

The part I worried about the most was removing the Home button but it turned out that was quite easy as long as you took your time removing the gasket from the panel assembly. I did not even use any kind of heat, I just SLOWLY pushed on the button from the opposite side to loosen one corner. The rest of the gasket came off pretty easily. The hardest part by far was getting the front-facing camera, ambient sensor, and proximity sensor back in place during re-assembly. Getting these small parts in the right places took about an hour and was the most frustrating part of the entire process. The 2nd hardest part was reconnecting the Home button cable to its socket. At this point the phone case is just partly open and there is very little space to work with. Once everything was back together, I discovered the screen wasn't responding to touch commands. I had to reopen the phone and reconnect the digitizer cable (it was loose). All appears to working fine. Total time was about 3.5 hours.

Tony Sambrano -

I lost the white pad for the proximity sensor is it ok if I forget about it and move on?

Cody Lavin -

I've made this repair three times so far, and it is only this last time that I realized that step 31 (peeling flex cable from shield) was/is not needed. If you are removing the whole shield anyway and relocating it to your new screen+digitizer, it naturally will come with it.

One word of advice. The magnatized phillips head screwdriver is your friend for removing and installing screws. Using it allows you to pick up and place screws with less chance of losing it. Using tweezers has caused those tiny screws to jump away from me like mexican jumping beans, and they can jump very, very far. There is only one screw that is not magnetic, it's near the compass, and is installed in the square sheild that covers the three flex cables. The screw is located at the north east corner of the shield.

If you have the tools and take your time, and read and watch the videos, this is a fairly easy and straight forward repair.

tonemontone -

I replaced my screen and everything was right until I turned it on. There are white lines from the top to the bottom. The screen is dark but everything works.

Jorge Gamarra -

I removed the front panel, but don't see the battery have a plate, the home button stays on the case. Model A1533, so iphone 5s. Really don't know what to do from here?

Jean Sebastien Chasle -

After refitting everything, the apple logo appairs and then nothing happens, but only after fitting it to a charger. Any ideas of what casues this?

simplyblake -

This guide doesn't mention anything about the extreme likeliness of having to restore the phone due to this procedure... didn't back up phone prior to the Front Panel replacement... lost all data. Had done this on an iPhone 4s without requiring a restore/hard reset. I'm interested if this is at all similar to others' experiences.

7evenseaz -

apple tells you to back up your phone even when you bring in for the smallest repair (obviously for liability)… but why would you not do that for a DIY?

Tejus S -

just repaired my friends iphone 5s screen but he said the phone was dead and i am not sure if the phone works because i am getting nothing on the screen and my computer does not see the phone at all. can someone please give me some advice. no i do not get the charging sign. hope the phone is not broken or the screen. i have also reseated the display connectors and to no difference. some advice would be very helpful.

Dudefoxlive -

replaced the charger board and everything works great now. Great Guides. Love your website keep up the amazing work.

Dudefoxlive -

Salve, ho seguito la guida passo dopo passo ma adesso l'Iphone non accende più, cosa posso fare? Grazie a tutti per il lavoro che fate

Pietro Maita -

Grazie Fixit ..con Voi ho imparata a riparare telefonini e per puro piacere ho risolto decine di problemi a miei amici.

La guida è ottima...un pò meno la Apple che negli anni complica la vita a chi vuole riparare il melafonino. Soluzioni tecniche visibilmente atte a rendere difficile il fai da te.......per dare spazio (forse giustamente) ai dealer e services ufficiali. Ma io non molllloooooooooo :-)

filippucci -

Great fix!! Replaced my screen and digitizer in just under a half hour (I'm an advanced repair person). The hard part was closing the project. If this helps I lowered the ear piece side in first and gently pushed until it would not give anymore. At that point you can see its not fully seated into the case. I laid the phone face down on my desk and gently pushed on the back being sure to evenly place my push force. It snapped right into place. Now my iPhone 5s is like new.

Damian Panitz -

Completed the repair in about an hour with the bare-bones iFixit screen replacement. It really helped to have a good tool set, good light and a magnifying hood and a great guide.

• I also used an old diaper-like cloth to work on. This has saved my bacon countless times as it keeps little screws and bits from bouncing off into oblivion, while making it really easy to spot them.

• The screen I had was utterly fractured. Several layers of packing tape were necessary, and even then the glass wanted to separate from the digitizer when pulling it up. It came up from the middle and I just used a spudger to work it up.

• I did not have the iOpener. I used a hair dryer and got the whole screen fairly warm. Everything detached easily.

• Be sure the frame where the screen fits is clean. I used a spudger holding the phone upside-down to scrape out the crud. I also smoothed out a big ding in the frame with a metal spudger, very carefully scraping and pushing it out. The new screen went in like butter.

Sheldon Carpenter -

I've replaced the screen on 5s but it now doesn't power up, it flashed the apple logo a few times?! Help please!

Rebecca Lyndon -

Great job ifixit people. I was hesitant on starting this process but followed all of your steps meticulously. The availability of zooming in on the pictures helped my 43 year old eyes. The tools i ordered for the repair came with a kit. I used all the tools. Great Job.

soccer123 -

I got a little lost at the point of separating the screen from the rest of the assembly (camera, light sensor etc...) but overall amazing guide and great replacement part. After a few hours of squinting and holding a flashlight in my mouth while cursing the tiny screws under my breath my 5s is as good as new.

SEPARATE AND LABEL YOUR SCREWS!!!

Thanks for another great fix experience iFixit.

Chris Reinhardt -

I followed the guide and it worked great with one exception. My home button no longer works. The screen I purchased was a complete assembly so I did not need to remove the old home button, LCD, or camera display. I've double checked the connection for the home button and it is secure but it does not function. What do I do now?

Brad Hunt -

If you want Touch ID functionality, you always, always, always need to transfer your original home button to your new display—regardless of whether it came with a new home button or not. The embedded fingerprint sensor is paired to your phone's logic board at the factory and will not work if swapped out for a different part.

Jeff Suovanen -

everything perfect but Touch ID does not work. I think it's iOS 10 a lot of people who repair dozens of iPhones are saying Touch ID doesn't work after it gets unplugged.

Brandon Wetch -

Thank you so much!!! I just replaced my wife's screen, she's been limited to Siri control for months, now I guess I'll be losing her to texting and Facebook, LOL!

W Fleming -

Thanks!!! This was pretty easy and everything works great now. I appreciate the detailed instructions. A few things went different than pictured/described, but in the end my iphone works perfectly and looks great!

Ben Handel -

So this is my second install of a new Lscreen, last time the screen diagnosed fine then came back to me with dead spots... I installed another new one and after a while the screen starts having dead spots. whats up??

Austin Pollard -

I completed everything, and everything seemed right, and it turned on successfully- went passed the apple screen to the home screen. But then it wouldn't register touches or pressing the home button. Any ideas? Thanks!

Dayna -

Lifesaver! Thank you so much for this guide! Always so great to know I can count on iFixit's guides. I know this is totally gonna sound like I'm getting paid for this review, but seriously, anyone looking to fix their phones should consider getting that little case that the lady showed. It's got everything you need to fix your iPhones. I have probably fixed like 4-5 phones already and this kit has always had exactly the right tool.

Arturo Stable -

just completed a screen replacement. so far, so good. will keep an eye out for dead spots, stripes, lines, flickers, and all the other things that people mention. was hoping my non-functional touchID would magically return (it stopped working way back when i replaced the battery), but no luck. another great ifixit guide. only hiccup was not realizing right away that the proximity sensor has a little rubber bracket and diffusion screen that must be moved over to the new screen as well. but the comments helped a ton.

thanks ifixit!

palatucci -

When i tried to Insert the New Screen. I Noticed the Top Part is Popping out a Bit. I Tried to Push it and it doesnt want to

DarklingGolem50 -

I'm about to change my cracked screen but I was wondering with so many of the components using adhesive how do you glue them back into place or is the existing adhesive still strong enough to stick on the new display?

Simon -

Typical iFixt screen replacement tutorial… Several unnecessary steps, they make you remove components that has nothing to do with the screen and that you don’t even need to remove in order to replace it. For instance, you can complete ignore steps 14, 15, and 16. Also, steps 32 tells you to remove the adhesive, which is totally unnecessary if you’re going to remove the shielding as shown in steps 42 and 43 and use it on the new screen, I would even advise to not remove the adhesive so it will be placed exactly like it was, and will stick better (adhesives never stick as much once removed).

Some steps seems to be there more to promote an iFixit product than helping, steps 28 is a great example, it tells you to use the iOpener to remove a part that can be easily removed without any heat whatsoever…

Don’t get me wrong, I like the detailed steps and the great, clear pictures, but I think I’ll have to agree with Louis Rossmann. iFixit tend to makes things more complicated than it should be.

Keven Brochu -

“For instance, you can complete ignore steps 14, 15, and 16.”

Oh, it’s not right advice actually. Before operating with any sockets, cables, connectors etc. you have to turn off the power of the device. Exception is the home button connector, because you can’t get to a power connector without detaching it.

These steps are neccessary.

Виталий Романов -

ايسي تاتش للايفون 5اس فين مكانه وهل هو محمي

ahmead hassan -

I lost a few of my screws like a dumbass what do i do.

AppsOnRobit -3' -

Its an incredible rush. Its very nerve wrecking. Its exciting. And pretty difficult. But when its reassembled and it seems to work. You’re as proud as kid who drew its first drawing. Wow %#*@ i did this. Haha Thanks ifixit and author for this guide!!!!!!!

Stijn -

Excellent thanks, didn’t encounter any problems by following the steps !

steve -

I’m having some issues after following this guide, unfortunately.

I replaced the battery and the display.

The display and battery and all functions seem to work fine, except the most important one; the touchscreen. It’s completely unresponsive now. Also, there is a dim corner in the upper left-hand side of the screen. Does anyone know what the cause of this is? Can any kind souls please help me out? Thanks in advance.

Benjamin R -

excellent! thanks for this walkthru

mikeyb540 -

Hello. I now have charging problem, phone won’t charge (it has small red bar but never charges). I didn’t disconnect battery, while replacing screen. Could this wrong precedure damage charging IC?

alen91071 -

If a 68 year old with not so good eyesight and fat finger syndrome can do this, then it has to be a good tutorial. Worked for me!!

Christopher Sargeant -

I changed the screen but the digitizer is not working. I think that it’s a shortage somewhere. Do you have any idea what should I look first?

Sot Pap -

This is really helpful!

g3houdini -

Thanx for this easy Guide. I’m very happy that the iPhone SE already works…

Thomas Kübler -

Followed the guide, but broke my screen while assembling it back together. have to order a new one again.

Rihards Olmanis -

Très bon tuto, facile à suivre et particulièrement réussi ! Opération accomplie, ma fille est contente..Que demander de plus !

Eric PAROIS-QUELENNEC -

TIP: Be very careful when you press the new screen back into the phone they can snap or damage easily.

TIP: Camera can move and shift around easily so ensure the plastic lens is in the right way.

TIP: Make sure you label screws correctly as wrong screw in wrong hole will damage thread.

Muzz UK -

I did this and worked well, but my front camera and earphone are gone. Any clue on what I might have done wrong?

Athanasius Pernath -

My phone frame was dented in the corner. But I managed to panel beat it out from the inside using some aluminum 40mm rounded corner square section inside the bent lip of the phone. Hit the aluminum section with a hammer. Not the the faint hearted, but it worked. Cosmetically a little overcorrected but at least the new glass fits in properly.

When replacing the glass, don’t forget the top edge (power button end) needs to hook in the frame.

B Louis -

Ajuda sempre apesar de já ter trocado algumas telas iPhone 5s não dá para me lembrar onde fica cada parafuso. Excelente esta ajuda.

Alvaro Gomes -

This worked like a treat -I had to use a knife to gently sand down the plastic edges of the screen to fit it in the slightly bent/damaged metal casing…. but other than that it went smoothly.

Regina Forsythe -

On step 43, is there an easy step to fix the little chip that came loose?

jessicajulia -

Finished this fix and the screen looks great again. However, now the digitizer is acting weird - it’s completely unresponsive in some areas of the screen and in the areas it is responsive it often registers multiple touches when I’ve only tapped it once. Is this a shoddy digitizer or can this happen if it’s not put back together properly? Thanks!

markstickley -

Hi markstickley!

It sounds like the digitizer within the screen may not have been properly shielded and is shorting against something. Double-check the digitizer connector to make sure it is clean and fully seated. Be sure to disconnect the battery first!

Arthur Shi -