iPhone 12 Taptic Engine Replacement

Step 1

Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray, located on the volume button edge of the iPhone.
Press firmly to eject the tray.

Step 2

Remove the SIM card tray from the iPhone.
The SIM card will fall out of the tray easily.
When reinserting the SIM card, make sure it's in the proper orientation inside the tray.
A thin rubber gasket around the SIM tray provides water and dust protection. If this gasket is damaged or missing, replace the gasket or the entire SIM tray to protect your iPhone's internal components.

Step 3

Caution: Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
Remove the two 6.75 mm long pentalobe P2 screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

Do you sell the waterproof seals separately or are they included in the kit?

Heather Furnas -

Do you sell the waterproof seals separately or are they included in the kit? (I would like to know this as well.)

CaliforniaGunner -

Step 4

If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.
Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.
Alternatively, tape a coin to a pick 3 mm from the tip.

Step 5

If your iPhone has a cracked screen, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.
If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.
If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the screen.

Step 6

The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.
Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
If you find that the surface of your iPhone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 7

Pull the blue handle forwards to lock the arms.
Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

Step 8

Support your iPhone on something sturdy such as a hardcover book so it rests hands-free and parallel to the ground; this makes it easier to work with in the following steps.
Use a hair dryer to heat along the bottom edge of the iPhone. The screen should feel slightly too hot to touch.
For complete instructions on how to use a hair dryer, check out this guide.
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
Insert an opening pick under the screen's plastic bezel when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle a quarter turn.
Don't crank more than a quarter turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next three steps.

Step 9

Use a hair dryer or a heat gun to heat the bottom edge of the iPhone for 90 seconds or until the screen is slightly too hot to touch.
Never leave your hair dryer in one spot for an extended period of time.

Step 10

If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the very edge of the glass.

Step 11

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the screen and the frame.
Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen's plastic bezel.
The watertight adhesive holding the screen in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

This seems impossible. I've been trying for an hour with heat and rocking, and the screen doesn't budge. :(

Aubi Abramowitz -

this is impossible, will take years

Evan Z -

Don’t give up! Use more heat and a tad more force. I know you may fear breaking it more, but as long as you don’t stick the prying tool too far or tug too hard, you can do it! I have faith that you can do it!

Rachel Kelley -

I'm in the same boat, this isn't coming off. I've tried the hair dryer as well as the heating pad from ifixit. Any other ideas?

The suction cup comes off before the screen will

Brian Melcher -

Is there a better tool for this? Just saw a video on YouTube where a kid pryed it open with no heating/etc. in 5 seconds.

Brian Melcher -

I've changed the batteries in probably a half dozen iphones of different models. But 25 minutes of heating and pulling had no effect on iPhone 12

Ryan Thornburg -

Welp. I finally ended up breaking the screen attempting this. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR! Not worth the broken screen and losing the cost of shipping both ways when you return the battery.

Ryan Thornburg -

thx, I ll go to an apple repair center

Ronald Geerligs -

Back (and bad...) experience ! Even if you heat a lot, the screen is hardly sticked. Take care, before sliding the mediator under the screen, this one should be moved up, at least 2 mm. On my side i have slided around 1 mm and .... inserted the mediator between the glass screen and the screen structure ring.... result : glass break and screen to change (my initial exercise was the battery removal !). I feel that next time i will visit a repair center...

Gilbert -

Pro tip for anyone having trouble with this. You have to use multiple rounds of heat and pulling. Use a hair dryer and not the iOpener that comes with the fix kit and get it just too hot to touch then quickly start pulling and wiggling it up and down. Once it cools down grab the hair dryer again and repeat it a couple times until you start to get a big enough gap.

I just did this yesterday and it took around 5 rounds of heating and pulling to get it to seperate enough from the body.

Oliver Pressello -

It's important to insert the pick under the bezel. I just delaminated my screen. The screen was probably fine, but it was glitching, so I wanted to check for a bad connection. Anyway, now I get a new screen.

Under the bezel, eh.

Chris Green -

After reading this almost a year later to the day I last commented on it, I now know that the best way I have found to remove a screen, from pretty much any phone, not just this one, is heat (I use a heating pad on 80 degrees celsius) and before putting the phone on the heating pad, I use 91% isopropyl alcohol around the edges that you will be sliding your pry tools in, and I leave it on for 10 min. I then take it off, add more alcohol, and then put it back on the pad for another 5 min. Also, while I am sliding my tools around the screen, I continuously add more alcohol, and if it takes a really long time, then more heat as well. Heat, alcohol, and patience, lots of patience, and you should be good. Hope this helps, good luck!

Rachel Kelley -

Can confirm, this does indeed work. Just keep warming it up, lifting up and down, and repeat when phone goes cold. After around 10 rounds it would move enough to where I could see inside the phone when lifted. You can then insert pick

Tip: You can also try to apply heat and lift the other corner, just enough to make it move slightly. This will ease pressure needed to separate the glue on the other side as-well.

Thomas -

Step 12

Use a hair dryer to heat the right edge of the iPhone (the edge with the power button) for 90 seconds or until the screen is slightly too hot to touch.

Step 13

Slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPhone to separate its adhesive.
Continue sliding up the right edge of the iPhone until you reach the top right corner.
Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage internal components.
Leave the pick in the top right corner before continuing.

Step 14

Use a hair dryer to heat the top edge of the iPhone for 90 seconds or until the screen is slightly too hot to touch.

Step 15

Slide the opening pick around the top right corner of the iPhone to separate the top adhesive.
Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage the top sensors.
Leave the pick in the top left corner before continuing.

Step 16

Use a hair dryer to heat the left edge of the iPhone for 90 seconds or until the screen is slightly too hot to touch.

Step 17

There are delicate cables along the left edge of your iPhone. Don't insert your pick here, as you may damage the cables.

Step 18

Insert a second opening pick in the bottom left corner of the iPhone.
Twist both picks simultaneously until the left edge clips release.
Apply the twisting force gradually.
If you're having trouble separating the adhesive, reheat the left edge.

Step 19

Rotate your iPhone so the right edge faces you.
Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the right side, like the front cover of a book.
Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn't click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren't bent.

i did this and the shroud with the earpiece speaker still stuck with the phone so its just wedged in there i cant get it out

lil teslas -

Step 20

Remove two 1.1 mm long Y000 screws securing the battery and display connector cover.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

Ouch, I see a broken flat here…

Alessandro Sordelli - 20/05/21

Can I use a y 0.6 if I don’t have y000

kellciou cr -

Yep! The measurements for Y000 are 0.6 mm.

Alex Diaz-Kokaisl -

Step 21

Remove the cover.

Hi

On my original display on an iPhone 12, there is no metal hinge as shown here and therefore no place for it when closing the phone. Have double-checked model and the original display - and it is just not there. Is there another model based on serial number?

Hinge marked: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/asztgi60g...

Best regards,

Carsten

Carsten Feltman -

Step 22

Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.
Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

Step 23

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the display cable connector.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Step 24

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the digitizer cable connector.
If any part of your screen doesn't respond to touch after your repair, disconnect the battery and then re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there's no dust or other obstruction in the socket.

Step 25

Use a Y000 driver to remove four screws securing the front sensor connector cover.
Three 1.1 mm long screws
One 1.4 mm long screw

Step 26

Swing the cover up from the left until the small clip on the right unhooks.
Remove the cover.
During reassembly, insert the clip on the right edge into its slot first, then hinge the rest of the cover into place.

Step 27

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front sensor assembly cable connector.

Step 28

Remove the display assembly.
During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the waterproof adhesive around the edges of the display.

Step 29

Use a Phillips driver to remove the four 1.6 mm screws securing the loudspeaker.

Step 30

Remove the loudspeaker.

Step 31

Use a Y000 driver to remove the two 1.4 mm long screws securing the SIM card reader connector cover.

Step 32

Remove the SIM card reader cable connector cover.

Step 33

Use the point of a spudger to pry the SIM card reader cable connector straight up and out of its socket on the logic board.

Step 34

Use a Y000 driver to remove the three screws securing the SIM card reader.
Two 1.4 mm screws
One 1.1 mm screw

Step 35

Remove the Taptic Engine cable connector bracket.

Step 36

Use a standoff or a small flathead driver to remove the 2.82 mm long standoff screw securing the SIM card reader.
Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.
In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.