iPad Pro 12.9" 3rd Gen Screen Replacement

Written By: Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

Comments: 34

iPad Pro 12.9" 3rd Gen Screen Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

Use this guide to replace the screen in your iPad Pro 12.9" 3rd Gen.

The screen consists of the display and the top sensor assembly. If you don't transfer the top sensor assembly, you will lose Face ID and True Tone.

This guide was written using a WiFi + Cellular version (Model A2014). If you have a different model, there might be some slight visual discrepancies, but they won't affect the procedure.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Allow your iPad's battery to fully drain before starting this repair. A charged battery may catch fire if damaged during the repair.
Unplug any cables and fully shut down your iPad.

Step 2

Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the screen for two minutes.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the iPad—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

Step 3

The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle backward to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
Place an object under your iPad so it rests level between the suction cups.
Position the suction cups near the middle of the right edge—one on the top, and one on the bottom.
Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and firmly press down on the top cup to apply suction.
If you find that the surface of your iPad is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, use tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 4

Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

Step 5

Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
If your screen isn't getting hot enough, you can use a hair dryer to heat along the right edge of the iPad.
For complete instructions on how to use a hair dryer, check out this guide.
Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.
Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next step.

Step 6

If your screen is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.
Apply a suction handle to the screen as close to the center of the right edge as possible.
Pull up on the suction handle with a strong, steady force to create a small gap between the frame and screen.
The large screen is very fragile. Only create a gap big enough to insert an opening pick.
If you're having trouble making a gap, reapply a heated iOpener to the right edge for two minutes.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.
Don't insert the pick more than 5 mm to avoid damaging the screen.

Step 7

There are two 2 cm-long magnets along the right edge of the screen. Don't insert your opening pick more than 2 mm to avoid damaging the screen in these locations:
The first magnet begins about 3 cm from the top of the iPad.
The second magnet begins about 3 cm from the bottom of the iPad.
Everywhere else, don't insert your opening pick more than 5 mm.

Step 8

Slide your opening pick along the right edge of the screen to separate the adhesive.
Angle your pick downward and insert up to a 2 mm depth near the magnet cutouts and 5 mm everywhere else.
Leave the pick inserted in the bottom right corner before continuing.

Step 9

Slide your opening pick around the bottom right corner of the screen to separate the adhesive.
Leave your pick in the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 10

Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the screen for two minutes.

Step 11

Insert a second opening pick under the bottom right corner of the screen.
Don't insert your opening pick more than 5 mm.
Slide your pick to the bottom left corner to separate the bottom adhesive.

Step 12

Rotate your opening pick around the bottom left corner of the screen.
Leave your pick in the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 13

Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the screen for two minutes.

Step 14

There are three cutouts along the left edge of the screen where the adhesive is very thin. Don't insert your opening pick more than 2 mm to avoid damaging the screen at these cutouts:
The upper cutout begins 4 cm from the top of the frame and is 3 cm long.
The middle cutout begins 12 cm from the top of the frame and is 3 cm long.
The bottom cutout is 4 cm from the bottom of the frame and is 3 cm long.
Everywhere else, don't insert your opening pick more than 5 mm.

Step 15

Insert a third opening pick under the bottom left corner of the screen.
Slide your pick to the top left corner to slice the left adhesive, making sure to avoid the cutouts shown in the previous step.
Leave the pick inserted in the top left corner before continuing.

Step 16

Slide your opening pick around the top left corner of the screen.
Leave your pick in the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 17

Apply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the screen for two minutes.

Step 18

While the top edge adhesive softens, note the following:
There are two ambient light sensors near the corners. Don't insert your pick more than 1 mm here.
The front-facing camera and additional sensors are in the center of the top edge. Don't insert your pick here—there is less than 1 mm of adhesive and you may damage the components.
For everywhere else, don't insert your pick more than 5 mm to avoid damaging the screen.

Step 19

Slide your opening pick 9 cm toward the top right edge, stopping just before the camera assembly.
If you slide any farther, you risk damaging the camera's sensors.
Leave your pick inserted before continuing.

Step 20

Insert a new opening pick on the other side of the camera assembly, 4 cm from the previous pick.
Slide your pick to the top right corner to slice the remaining adhesive.

Step 21

Don't fully remove the screen, as it's attached to the frame by several cables.
Grab two opposing corners of the screen and lift up to separate it from the frame.
If the screen feels stuck, slide your opening picks around the perimeter to separate any remaining adhesive. Pay attention to sensitive areas shown in previous steps.
Shift the screen towards the bottom right corner of the frame until the ribbon cable near the top edge is uncovered.

Step 22

Throughout this guide, keep track of each screw and reinstall it exactly where it came from.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the upper cable shield:
One 2.0 mm-long screw
One 1.8 mm-long screw
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPad and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your iPad back down before you continue working.

Step 23

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to grab and remove the upper cable shield.

Step 24

Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the upper sensors press connector.
To re-attach press connectors, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Don't press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend and cause permanent damage.

Step 25

Grip the right edge of the screen and open it like a book.
Don't pull up on the screen—the display cables are still attached.
Lay the screen down over the left edge of the iPad.
Be careful not to strain the display cables.

Step 26

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the five screws securing the display cable bracket:
Four 1.1 mm-long screws
One 2.0 mm-long screw

Step 27

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the display cable bracket.

Step 28

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the two top display cable press connectors.

Step 29

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the two bottom display cable press connectors.

Step 31

Peel back the tape from the display cable bracket located at the bottom right of the screen.

Step 32

Continue peeling the tape along its outer edge until the bracket is fully exposed.

Step 33

Remove the tape.
Set the tape aside. You'll use it during reassembly.

Step 34

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 1.3 mm-long screws securing the display cable bracket.

Step 36

Peel off the tape connecting the display and digitizer cables.

My iPad did not have this tape -- just leaving the comment in case others are surprised to find this missing. Also no tape on the microphone (step 44)

Claude -

Step 37

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the bottom display cable press connector on the screen.
Use tweezers to bend the bottom press connector away from the screen—exposing the top press connector.

Step 38

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the top display cable press connector on the screen.

Step 39

The display cable is lightly adhered to the screen.
Use your fingers to peel the display cable from the screen.
Remove the display cable.
Set the cable aside. You'll use it during reassembly.

Step 40

The top sensor assembly is composed of four sensors:
Two ambient light sensors
One proximity sensor
One microphone
You'll need to separate each sensor from the screen before removing the entire assembly.

Step 41

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top of the screen for two minutes.

Step 42

Insert one arm of your angled tweezers between the ambient light sensor and the screen.
Pry up to separate the sensor from the screen.
This might take significant force.
Repeat this procedure for the other ambient light sensor.

Step 43

Be very careful during this step, as the sensor cable can tear. Work slowly and apply more heat if you encounter resistance.
Insert one arm of your angled tweezers between the proximity sensor cable and the screen.
Slide the tweezers toward the screen while prying to separate the sensor from the screen.
This might take significant force and multiple iOpener heating cycles.

Step 44

Peel off any tape covering the microphone.
Set the tape aside. You'll use it during reassembly.

Step 45

Slide an opening tool under the microphone to separate its adhesive.
Pry up to separate the microphone from the screen.

Step 46

Slide an opening pick under the top sensor assembly cable to separate it from the screen.

Step 47

Continue sliding your opening pick along the top sensor assembly until it's completely separated from the screen.
Remove the top sensor assembly.

Step 48

During reassembly, perform the following:
Align the top sensor assembly on your replacement screen.
Use Tesa tape, or similar double-sided tape, to secure the cables to the screen.
Use E6000 adhesive, or similar adhesive, to secure the sensors to their cutouts on the screen.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad 12.9" 3rd Generation Answers community for help.

33 comments

My Face ID no longer works?

Steve Pisano - 04/12/19

Most likely you may have damaged the flex of proximity sensor.

Check connector

Check placement with flash light make sure everything is aligned correctly

Mark D Schlossman - 05/12/19

why not get a new flex cable from ebay or aliexpress

imab -

What adhesive do you use to reattach their screen?

puppitkey - 04/05/20

@pjohansen Tesa 61395 Tape

Mark D Schlossman - 04/05/20

What size of that tape do you need for this iPad? Thanks

Daniel Smith - 21/06/20

What tool do you use to restore true tone ?

Damien Nojac - 17/07/20

I do not think there is a way without OEM Screen or serial transferring such as with iPhone X MAX screen repairs you would use

I will have to look into it when I have time for you

Mark D Schlossman - 17/07/20

I have the original screen. It’s still working, the glass is just completely shattered.

Damien Nojac - 17/07/20

Is face id working

Mark D Schlossman - 18/07/20

Yes, it’s working

Damien Nojac - 18/07/20

Thanks couldnt find a guide for the 11 and the facial id threw me off

jimmy dixon - 07/01/21

Was working on one for the 11 but I am to busy repairing lately. But they are identical pretty

Mark D Schlossman - 08/01/21

Is the glass adhered to the LCD like the phones?

emholden - 14/01/21

Yes it is just like phones only on the iPad Air 2&3 and the Pro Series

Mark D Schlossman -

Mine didn’t start after screen replacement when using the power button. Was scared, but after connecting it to the charger it worked!

bartijn - 13/04/21

I forgot to turn off the power of the ipad and the LCD backlight went out. How can I fix it?

Valu -

It would be a board level repair you can send out for microsoldering iPad rehab can do

Mark D Schlossman -

Thanks for the great tutorial! I replaced my iPad Pro screen with no issues!

Sara -

Thanks for the feed back

Mark D Schlossman -

The cable that was supposed to be reused was damaged during the swap. Where can i get a replacement?

goober2432 -

what glue do you use to attach the face id flex to the new screen?

paul.lynch1 -

Hi Mark,

I have lost two screws and I am wondering what are the dimensions of all the screws in my iPad pro 12.9 3rd Gen so I can replace them? I don't want to put the wrong ones in because I have heard that's bad!

Rebecca Gray -

@rebeccaperth I might have a recycled ipad pro at my work I can sell you the screws email me at info@icarefargo.com

Mark D Schlossman -

Question, if I rip the digitizer flex cable to the LCD. (The one with two pins) can you solder the flex cable back together?

Andere Edward -

Quick question even though it might sound stupid but could the 2021 screen work with the 2018/2020 model?

Shaun Eworh -

The guide doesn't show the part regarding the face ID. And it's the most sensitive one. Good guide despite that though.

Rafael Munoz -

Thank you for making the guide. It really helped me replace a friend's iPad Pro 12.9 4th generation cracked screen. I did it yesterday, and it only took me a whole day! 😆

jean rodriguez -

I broke the display cables when prying of a badly broken screen, is it possible to buy them seperately, the ones thad did not come with the new screen?

Bjarki Björgúlfsson -

Hi there.

Yes, we sell them! Here's the link!

Alex Diaz-Kokaisl -

My 10 year old helped with step 1. He’s a pro at draining batteries in record time. 😆

Breadman -

The first step in the tutorial is, "Allow your iPad's battery to fully drain before starting this repair. A charged battery may catch fire if damaged during the repair."

Ok, but that's not so simple. Is there a guide to efficiently and quickly draining the battery? Something besides app-oriented drains (like watching 6 hours of videos, turning the brightness up, etc.).

generalstuff1 -

Wow, this was nerve-wracking. The top 4 sensors, didn't realize they are all glued on, so pulling them off, thought I broke them. After doing my best to put it back together again (used a tiny bit of crazy glue), everything worked! Getting those tiny screws back in was difficult (mostly getting them to seat on the screwdriver). I bought the glass kit, and suggested tool kit, and clamp, but missed out on the tape (figured it was included). Also came with a sheet of outer tape, but the kit already had it assembled. So once I concluded that was the case, I just took a small strip of the new stuff and used it to "tape" down the 4 sensor array.

On the bottom left corner, I tore off a small piece of copper tape by accident. Not sure if it is functional in any way. There was another in the bottom center. Pretty much part of the black adhesive. Hopefully that doesn't create issues.

But the weirdest thing of all, my shipment literally included a single card: a king of spades. Why?!

Kris Morness -