iPad Pro 12.9" 3rd Gen Front Camera Assembly Replacement

Written By: Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

Comments: 8

iPad Pro 12.9" 3rd Gen Front Camera Assembly Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

Use this guide to replace the front camera assembly in your iPad Pro 12.9" 3rd Gen.

The front camera assembly includes the FaceID camera, the front camera, and the dot projector.

The front camera assembly is paired to the logic board. You will lose Face ID if you replace this part by itself.

This guide was written using a WiFi + Cellular version (Model A2014). If you have a different model, there might be some slight visual discrepancies, but they won't affect the procedure.

Some photos show the battery connector blocked with two card strips. While this is an optional method, it's more reliable to fully discharge the battery. Ignore this visual discrepancy as you work through the guide.

Tools

Parts

iPad Pro 12.9" (2018/2020) Adhesive Strips

Step 1

Allow your iPad's battery to fully drain before starting this repair. A charged battery may catch fire if damaged during the repair.
Unplug any cables and fully shut down your iPad.

Step 2

Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the screen for two minutes.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the iPad—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

Step 3

The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle backward to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
Place an object under your iPad so it rests level between the suction cups.
Position the suction cups near the middle of the right edge—one on the top, and one on the bottom.
Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and firmly press down on the top cup to apply suction.
If you find that the surface of your iPad is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, use tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 4

Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

Step 5

Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
If your screen isn't getting hot enough, you can use a hair dryer to heat along the right edge of the iPad.
For complete instructions on how to use a hair dryer, check out this guide.
Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.
Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next step.

Step 6

If your screen is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.
Apply a suction handle to the screen as close to the center of the right edge as possible.
Pull up on the suction handle with a strong, steady force to create a small gap between the frame and screen.
The large screen is very fragile. Only create a gap big enough to insert an opening pick.
If you're having trouble making a gap, reapply a heated iOpener to the right edge for two minutes.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.
Don't insert the pick more than 5 mm to avoid damaging the screen.

Step 7

There are two 2 cm-long magnets along the right edge of the screen. Don't insert your opening pick more than 2 mm to avoid damaging the screen in these locations:
The first magnet begins about 3 cm from the top of the iPad.
The second magnet begins about 3 cm from the bottom of the iPad.
Everywhere else, don't insert your opening pick more than 5 mm.

Step 8

Slide your opening pick along the right edge of the screen to separate the adhesive.
Angle your pick downward and insert up to a 2 mm depth near the magnet cutouts and 5 mm everywhere else.
Leave the pick inserted in the bottom right corner before continuing.

Step 9

Slide your opening pick around the bottom right corner of the screen to separate the adhesive.
Leave your pick in the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 10

Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the screen for two minutes.

Step 11

Insert a second opening pick under the bottom right corner of the screen.
Don't insert your opening pick more than 5 mm.
Slide your pick to the bottom left corner to separate the bottom adhesive.

Step 12

Rotate your opening pick around the bottom left corner of the screen.
Leave your pick in the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 13

Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the screen for two minutes.

Step 14

There are three cutouts along the left edge of the screen where the adhesive is very thin. Don't insert your opening pick more than 2 mm to avoid damaging the screen at these cutouts:
The upper cutout begins 4 cm from the top of the frame and is 3 cm long.
The middle cutout begins 12 cm from the top of the frame and is 3 cm long.
The bottom cutout is 4 cm from the bottom of the frame and is 3 cm long.
Everywhere else, don't insert your opening pick more than 5 mm.

Step 15

Insert a third opening pick under the bottom left corner of the screen.
Slide your pick to the top left corner to slice the left adhesive, making sure to avoid the cutouts shown in the previous step.
Leave the pick inserted in the top left corner before continuing.

Step 16

Slide your opening pick around the top left corner of the screen.
Leave your pick in the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 17

Apply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the screen for two minutes.

Step 18

While the top edge adhesive softens, note the following:
There are two ambient light sensors near the corners. Don't insert your pick more than 1 mm here.
The front-facing camera and additional sensors are in the center of the top edge. Don't insert your pick here—there is less than 1 mm of adhesive and you may damage the components.
For everywhere else, don't insert your pick more than 5 mm to avoid damaging the screen.

Step 19

Slide your opening pick 9 cm toward the top right edge, stopping just before the camera assembly.
If you slide any farther, you risk damaging the camera's sensors.
Leave your pick inserted before continuing.

Step 20

Insert a new opening pick on the other side of the camera assembly, 4 cm from the previous pick.
Slide your pick to the top right corner to slice the remaining adhesive.

Step 21

Don't fully remove the screen, as it's attached to the frame by several cables.
Grab two opposing corners of the screen and lift up to separate it from the frame.
If the screen feels stuck, slide your opening picks around the perimeter to separate any remaining adhesive. Pay attention to sensitive areas shown in previous steps.
Shift the screen towards the bottom right corner of the frame until the ribbon cable near the top edge is uncovered.

Step 22

Throughout this guide, keep track of each screw and reinstall it exactly where it came from.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the upper cable shield:
One 2.0 mm-long screw
One 1.8 mm-long screw
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPad and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your iPad back down before you continue working.

Step 23

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to grab and remove the upper cable shield.

Step 24

Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the upper sensors press connector.
To re-attach press connectors, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Don't press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend and cause permanent damage.

Step 25

Grip the right edge of the screen and open it like a book.
Don't pull up on the screen—the display cables are still attached.
Lay the screen down over the left edge of the iPad.
Be careful not to strain the display cables.

Step 26

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the five screws securing the display cable bracket:
Four 1.1 mm-long screws
One 2.0 mm-long screw

Step 27

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the display cable bracket.

Step 28

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the two top display cable press connectors.

Step 29

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the two bottom display cable press connectors.

Step 30

Remove the screen.

Step 31

Metal tape conceals three screws that secure the logic board cover.
Use an opening tool to scrape the metal tape off the logic board enough to grab it with tweezers.

It appears that the steps to remove the USB-C charging port have been left out. (This would be a good place to insert the steps so that this corresponds to the guide to replace the charging port.) In Step 47 you can clearly see that it has been removed. In fact, it must be removed to access the screw.

Andy Salisbury -

This and the next step are not necessary on my iPad Pro 12.9 inch 3rd gen.

Andy Salisbury -

Schritt 38-41 scheint mir beim Wechsel der USB Buchse überflüssig!

Alexander H. Mullally -

Step 32

Use tweezers to peel up the tape at the screw locations.

Schritt 38-41 scheint mir beim Wechsel der USB Buchse überflüssig!

Alexander H. Mullally -

Step 33

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the eight screws securing the logic board cover:
Five 2.0 mm-long screws
Three 1.1 mm-long screws

Schritt 38-41 scheint mir beim Wechsel der USB Buchse überflüssig!

Alexander H. Mullally -

Step 34

Peel back the logic board cover and remove it.

Dieser Schritt scheint mir bei dieser Reparatur überflüssig!

Alexander H. Mullally -

Schritt 38-41 scheint mir beim Wechsel der USB Buchse überflüssig!

Alexander H. Mullally -

Step 35

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the three front camera assembly cable press connectors.

Step 36

The left front camera cable is lightly adhered to the logic board.
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to peel the left cable off the logic board.

Step 37

The middle front camera cable is lightly adhered to the logic board.
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to peel the middle cable off the logic board.

Step 38

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 2.2 mm-long screws securing the front camera assembly.

I had to use a T3 bit to remove these screws.

Andy Salisbury -

Step 39

The front camera is strongly adhered to the frame with heat-resistant epoxy. Work slowly to avoid damaging surrounding components.
Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the front camera, between the middle and right cables.
Twist the spudger to separate the epoxy securing the front camera.
This may require significant force.
Remove the front camera.
During reassembly, use a spudger to scrape off any remaining epoxy before reinstalling the front camera.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad 12.9" 3rd Generation Answers community for help.

Author

Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

Member since: 16/01/22

117875 Reputation

iPad Pro 12.9" 3rd Gen Front Camera Assembly Replacement

Introduction

Tools

Parts

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