iPad Pro 11" 3rd Gen Logic Board Replacement

Written By: Chayton Ritter

Comments: 2

iPad Pro 11" 3rd Gen Logic Board Replacement

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

2 - 4 hours

Introduction

Follow this guide to replace the logic board in your iPad Pro 11" 3rd gen.

The logic board in your iPad Pro is paired to the Face ID hardware. Replacing it will disable Face ID.

This guide is written with an A2301 (cellular + mmWave) model iPad Pro. If you're fixing a Wi-Fi model, you can still use this guide—there will be some visual discrepancies, and you'll need to skip the steps related to the cellular antennas.

Some photos show the battery connector blocked with two card strips. While this is an optional method, it's more reliable to fully discharge the battery. Ignore this visual discrepancy as you work through the guide.

Tools

Step 1

Allow your iPad's battery to fully drain before starting this repair. A charged battery may catch fire if damaged during the repair.
Unplug any cables and fully shut down your iPad.

Step 2

While your iPad looks uniform from the outside, there are delicate components under portions of the screen. To avoid damage, follow instructions exactly as written and note the following areas as you open your iPad:
Camera module, ambient light sensors, proximity senor, and front microphone
Display cables
Screen magnets
LCD edges

Step 3

Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the screen for two minutes.
You can also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but extreme heat can damage the screen and/or internal battery, so proceed with care.

Step 4

The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle backward to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
Place an object under your iPad so it rests level between the suction cups.
Position the suction cups near the middle of the right edge—one on the top, and one on the bottom.
Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and firmly press down on the top cup to apply suction.
If you find that the surface of your iPad is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, use tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 5

Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

Step 6

Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
If your screen isn't getting hot enough, you can use a hair dryer to heat along the right edge of the iPad.
For complete instructions on how to use a hair dryer, check out this guide.
Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.
Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next step.

Step 7

If your screen is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.
Apply a suction handle to the right edge of the screen, about 5 cm from the bottom edge.
Pull up on the suction handle with firm, constant pressure to create a gap just small enough to insert an opening pick.
Only create a gap small enough to insert an opening pick. Overbending the screen will damage it.
Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.
Don't insert the opening pick more than 5 mm or you may damage the LCD.

Step 8

Insert a new opening pick in the gap you just created.
Slide the pick along the right edge to separate the adhesive.
When sliding near the volume buttons, don't insert the pick more than 2 mm or you'll damage the screen magnets.
Leave the pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 9

Apply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the screen for two minutes.

Step 10

The top edge of the iPad contains the camera module, two ambient light sensors, the proximity sensor, and front microphone. These components are fragile and easily damaged if an opening pick is inserted too far. Only separate the adhesive in the marked locations to avoid damage.
The two ambient light sensors can be hard to see and can be located using a flashlight or by placing the iPad under a bright light.
Don't insert an opening pick more than 2 mm near the top left and right edges or you'll damage the ambient light sensors.
Don't insert an opening pick more than 1 mm near the middle of the top edge or you'll damage the camera module, proximity sensor, and front microphone.

Step 11

Insert a new opening pick in the gap you just created.
Slide the pick along the top right edge, stopping when you reach the right ambient light sensor.
Don't insert the opening pick more than 5 mm.
Leave the pick in to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 12

Insert a new opening pick to the right of the ambient light sensor.
Slide the pick along the middle section of the top edge, stopping when you reach the left ambient light sensor.
Don't insert the pick more than 1 mm or you'll damage the proximity sensor and front microphone.
Leave the pick in to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 13

Insert a new opening pick to the left of the ambient light sensor.
Slide the pick along the top left edge, stopping when you reach the left ambient light sensor.
Don't insert the opening pick more than 5 mm.
Once the top edge adhesive has been separated, you can remove the two picks near the ambient light sensors.

Step 14

Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the screen for two minutes.

Step 15

Insert a new opening pick in the bottom right corner below the existing pick.
Don't insert the opening pick more than 2 mm when sliding on the right edge.
Slide the pick around the bottom right corner to separate the adhesive.

Step 16

Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge, stopping at the USB-C port.
Don't insert the opening pick more than 5 mm when separating the bottom edge adhesive.
Leave the pick in to prevent the bottom edge adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 17

Insert a new opening pick to the left of the USB-C port.
Separate the remaining bottom edge adhesive.
Don't insert the opening pick more than 5 mm when slicing the bottom edge adhesive.
Leave the pick in the bottom left corner to prevent the bottom edge adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 18

Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the screen for two minutes.

Step 19

The left edge of the iPad contains several display cables. These cables are extremely fragile and easily damaged if an opening pick is inserted too far or at the wrong angle. Follow the instructions exactly as written to avoid damage.
The display cables are located within small indents of the frame and require an opening pick to be inserted at a 45° angle.
There are flat sections of the frame which require an opening pick to be inserted horizontally.

Step 20

Insert an opening pick at a 45˚ angle just above the bottom left corner.
Don't insert the pick more than 5 mm or you'll damage the display cables.
Carefully slide the pick along the left edge, stopping when you reach the flat section of the frame.

Step 21

Lower the opening pick so it is horizontal to the screen.
Don't insert the pick more than 5 mm.
Continue separating the left edge adhesive until you reach the next indented section of the frame.

Step 22

Separate the remaining adhesive, making sure to follow the instructions exactly as written.
Slide the pick at a 45˚ downward angle and don't insert the pick more than 5 mm.
Slide the pick horizontally and don't insert the pick more than 5 mm.

Step 23

At this point, you've separated most of the screen adhesive. Lift the edges of the screen up slightly to check if there is any remaining adhesive.
Use an opening pick to remove any remaining adhesive keeping the screen stuck to the frame.
Grab the top right and bottom left corners of the screen.
Slowly slide the screen towards the bottom right corner to separate it from the frame.
Don't fully remove the screen as it is held in place by several ribbon cables underneath.
Shift the screen towards the bottom right corner of the frame until the ambient light sensor ribbon cable near the top edge is uncovered.

This (step 23) is by far the hardest part, the glue, even in warmed-up state, is quite strong and the panel extremely fragile.

ifaxit -

Step 24

Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the ambient light sensor cable bracket to the logic board:
One 1.3 mm screw
One 2.0 mm screw
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPad and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your iPad back down before you continue working.

Step 25

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the bracket.

Step 26

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the ambient light sensor cable by lifting straight up on the press connectors.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend and cause permanent damage.

Step 27

Don't try to remove the screen yet, as it's still attached by delicate ribbon cables.
Grip the right edge of the screen and fold it open like a book.
Lay the screen down over the left edge of the iPad.

Step 28

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the five screws securing the lower cable shield to the logic board:
Two 2.0 mm screws
Three 1.3 mm screws

Step 29

Use tweezers or your fingers to grab and remove the lower cable shield.

Step 30

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 1.8 mm screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

insert plastic sliver to disconnect the battery. Most important step not written down!

Jack -

Step 31

Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the top two display cables.

Step 32

Disconnect the two remaining display cables.

Step 33

Grip the right edge of the screen and lift it away.
During reassembly, before installing a screen, remove any remaining adhesive from the frame, and clean the glued areas with high-strength (>90%) isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth. This helps prep the iPad for fresh adhesive and ensures that it will bond properly.
If you plan to reinstall your existing screen, remove any remaining adhesive from the back and clean the adhered areas with isopropyl alcohol.
Follow this guide to install pre-cut adhesive strips on your iPad before sealing it up.

Step 34

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the USB-C port cable.

Step 35

The USB-C port cable is secured to the logic board with weak adhesive.
Slide an opening pick between the cable and the logic board to separate the adhesive.

Step 36

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 1.9 mm screws securing the USB-C port to the frame.

Step 37

Use tweezers to remove the two grounding contacts from each side of the USB-C port.

Step 38

Lift up and remove the USB-C port.

Step 39

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.2 mm screws securing the top cable shield.

Step 40

Apply a heated iOpener to the top cable shield for one minute to soften the adhesive securing it to the logic board.

Step 41

Insert an opening pick under the top cable shield and gently pry up to separate the adhesive.

Step 42

Use tweezers or your fingers to grab and remove the top cable shield.

Step 43

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the IR dot projector cable.

Step 44

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera and Face ID camera.

Step 45

Use a Torx T3 screwdriver to remove the two 2.1 mm screws securing the front camera assembly to the frame.

Step 46

Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and loosen the front camera assembly.
Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the front camera assembly.

Step 47

To disconnect antenna cables like this, use tweezers to grip the connector near the cable and lift it up.
Use tweezers to disconnect the two antenna cables.
Be careful using tweezers or other pointy metal tools near the battery—a punctured battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.
To reinstall, hold the connector in place and gently press straight down. The connector will “snap” into its socket much like the metal snaps on a jacket.

Step 48

The antenna cables are secured to the logic board with weak adhesive.
Slide an opening pick under the antenna cables to separate them from the logic board.

Step 49

Use an opening pick to separate the thin foam covering the antenna cables.

Step 50

The antenna cables are secured to the mmWave interconnect cable with weak adhesive.
Slide an opening pick between the antenna cables and the mmWave interconnect cable to separate them.

Step 51

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 1.2 mm screw securing the press connector bracket to the logic board.

Step 52

Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the antenna cable bracket.
Be careful using tweezers or other pointy metal tools near the battery—a punctured battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.

Step 53

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the mmWave flex cable.

Step 54

Slide an opening pick under the mmWave flex cable to separate it from the logic board.

Step 55

Some of these screws are the same length but have different thread sizes. Don't mix up the screws or you'll damage the threads in the frame.
Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the six screws securing the rear camera shield to the frame:
Two 2.8 mm screws
One 1.9 mm screw
One 1.9 mm screw
One 1.2 mm screw
One 1.2 mm screw

Step 56

Use tweezers or your fingers to lift the right side of the camera shield up.
Slide the shield out horizontally.
During reassembly, lower the left side of the shield back into place and make sure the small protruding tab is slotted in, then hinge the shield closed.

Step 57

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the wide angle camera cable.

Step 58

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the power button and LED cable.

Step 59

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the LiDAR sensor cable.
Fold the LiDAR sensor cable away from the frame to access the press connectors underneath.
Only fold the cable enough to access the connector underneath.

Step 60

Use the pointed edge of a spudger to disconnect the ultra wide camera cable.

Step 61

Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry up and loosen the rear camera module.
Use tweezers or your fingers to grab and remove the rear camera module.

Step 62

You're about to disconnect many connectors from the top and bottom of the logic board. During reassembly, use these photos as a reference to ensure all cables are connected in the correct locations.

Step 63

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the two top right speaker press connectors.
Don't pry against the short sides of the connector. The socket on the logic board is delicate and may break off if pried against.

Step 64

Repeat the previous step for the two top left speaker cables.

Step 65

Use the pointed edge of a spudger to disconnect the top microphone cable.

Step 66

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the top right sensor cable.

Step 67

Use the pointed edge of a spudger to disconnect the top interconnect board.
Don't bend or reposition the interconnect board. It's stiff and will break if overbent.

Step 68

Use tweezers to disconnect the two top left antenna cables.
The antenna cables located next to the top right speaker.

Step 69

Use tweezers to peel back the logic board shielding tape covering the two antenna cables.
Be careful using tweezers or other pointy metal tools near the battery—a punctured battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.

Step 70

Use tweezers to disconnect the two bottom right antenna cables.
Be careful using tweezers or other pointy metal tools near the battery—a punctured battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.

Step 71

Use the pointed edge of a spudger to disconnect the bottom interconnect board.
Don't bend or reposition the interconnect board. It's stiff and will break if overbent.

Step 72

Use tweezers to disconnect the Wi-Fi antenna coaxial cable.

Step 73

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the Smart Connector cable.

Step 74

Follow the procedure in step 65 to disconnect the bottom right speaker.

Step 75

Follow the procedure in step 65 to disconnect the bottom right speaker.

Step 76

Gently pull the antenna cables away from the logic board.

Step 77

Continue repositioning the antenna cables until they are clear from the bottom of the logic board.

Step 78

Use tweezers or your fingers to peel back the logic board shielding to reveal the hidden press connectors.
Be careful using tweezers or other pointy metal tools near the battery—a punctured battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.

Step 79

Use the flat end of a spudger to slide out the cable bracket.
Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the bracket.

Step 80

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the left microphone and Apple Pencil charger cables.

Step 81

The adhesive that secures the logic board to the frame is very strong. To remove the board, follow the next steps to weaken the adhesive using high-strength (>90%) isopropyl alcohol.
Elevate the left side of the iPad so that it lays down at an angle.
Apply a few drops of isopropyl alcohol along the left edge of the logic board.
Be careful if you're using a syringe with a needle or other sharp instrument to dispense isopropyl alcohol—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.
Let the alcohol soak for one minute to soften the adhesive under the logic board.

Step 82

Rotate your iPad 180˚ and lay it down with the right side elevated.
Repeat the previous step for the right edge of the logic board.

Step 83

Elevate the top side of the iPad.
Apply a few drops of isopropyl alcohol to the right branch of the logic board near the rear camera glass.
Don't allow isopropyl alcohol to contact the rear camera glass or you'll damage them.
Let the alcohol soak for one minute to soften the adhesive under the right logic board branch.

Step 84

Insert the flat end of a spudger under the lower edge of the logic board.
Don't pry against the bottom interconnect board as this will damage it.
Slowly lift up the bottom of the logic board.
If the adhesive is still too strong to lift up the logic board, apply some additional isopropyl alcohol and wait one minute.
Lift up the logic board and replace the playing card battery blocker with an opening pick.

Step 85

Slide an opening pick under the left edge of the logic board to loosen it.
Pry against the frame underneath the logic board to separate the adhesive.
Don't forcefully lever against the battery—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.
If the adhesive is still too strong to lift up the logic board, apply some additional isopropyl alcohol and wait one minute.

Step 86

Use an opening pick to gently pry up the top right branch of the logic board near the rear camera lenses.
If the adhesive is still too strong to lift up the logic board, apply some additional isopropyl alcohol and wait one minute.

Step 87

Insert an opening pick under the right edge of the logic board above the left microphone and Apple Pencil charger cables.
Slide the opening pick under the right edge of the logic board to loosen it.
Pry against the frame underneath the logic board to separate the adhesive.
Don't forcefully lever against the battery—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.
If the adhesive is still too strong to lift up the logic board, apply some additional isopropyl alcohol and wait one minute.

Step 88

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the top edge of the logic board.
Grip the top and bottom edges of the logic board.
Remove the logic board.

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad Pro 11" 3rd Gen Answers community for help.

Author

Chayton Ritter

Member since: 21/08/20

17428 Reputation

iPad Pro 11" 3rd Gen Logic Board Replacement

Introduction

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