iPad Pro 11" 1st Gen Screen Replacement

Written By: Chayton Ritter

Comments: 4

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

No estimate

Introduction

Follow this guide to replace the screen on your iPad Pro 11" 1st gen.

If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

The LiDAR sensor assembly attached to the screen is paired with the Face ID hardware. You'll need to transfer it to your new screen to keep Face ID functionality.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Allow your iPad's battery to fully drain before starting this repair. A charged battery may catch fire if damaged during the repair.
Unplug any cables and fully shut down your iPad.

Step 2

While your iPad looks uniform from the outside, there are delicate components under portions of the screen. To avoid damage, follow instructions exactly as written and note the following areas as you open your iPad:
Camera module, ambient light sensors, proximity senor, and front microphone
Display cables
Screen magnets
LCD edges

Step 3

Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the screen for two minutes.
You can also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but extreme heat can damage the screen and/or internal battery, so proceed with care.

Step 4

The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
Place an object under your iPad so it rests level between the suction cups.
Position the suction cups near the middle of the right edge—one on the top, and one on the bottom.
Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and firmly press down on the top cup to apply suction.
If you find that the surface of your iPad is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, use tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 5

Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

Step 6

Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
If your screen isn't getting hot enough, you can use a hair dryer to heat along the right edge of the iPad.
For complete instructions on how to use a hair dryer, check out this guide.
Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.
Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next step.

Step 7

If your screen is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.
Apply a suction handle to the right edge of the screen, about 5 cm from the bottom edge.
Pull up on the suction handle with firm, constant pressure to create a gap large enough to insert an opening pick.
Only create a gap small enough to insert an opening pick. Overbending the screen will damage it.
Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.
Don't insert the opening pick more than 5 mm or you'll damage the LCD.

Step 8

Insert a new opening pick in the gap you just created.
Slide the pick along the right edge to separate the adhesive.
When sliding near the volume buttons, don't insert the pick more than 2 mm or you'll damage the screen magnets.
Leave the pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 9

Apply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the screen for two minutes.

Step 10

The top edge of the iPad contains the camera module, two ambient light sensors, the proximity sensor, and front microphone. These components are fragile and easily damaged if an opening pick is inserted too far. Only separate the adhesive in the marked locations to avoid damage.
The two ambient light sensors can be hard to see and can be located using a flashlight or by placing the iPad under a bright light.
Don't insert an opening pick more than 2 mm near the top left and right edges or you'll damage the ambient light sensors.
Don't insert an opening pick more than 1 mm near the middle of the top edge or you'll damage the camera module, proximity sensor, and front microphone.

I thought the orange and red squares in this image represented where the listed components (the ambient light sensors, the camera module, proximity sensor, and front mic) are located. And if that’s the case, shouldn’t the warning be to separate the adhesive outside of the marked locations to help minimize the chance of damaging those components? I’m wondering why you would focus your prying efforts on the areas where there are really delicate and easily damaged parts…

Luke -

Step 11

Insert a new opening pick in the gap you just created.
Slide the pick along the top right edge, stopping when you reach the right ambient light sensor.
Don't insert the opening pick more than 5 mm.
Leave the pick to the right of the sensor to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 12

Insert a new opening pick to the right of the ambient light sensor.
Slide the pick along the middle section of the top, stopping when you reach the left ambient light sensor.
Don't insert the pick more than 1 mm or you'll damage the proximity sensor and front microphone.
Leave the pick in to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 13

Insert a new opening pick to the left of the ambient light sensor.
Slide the pick along the top left edge, stopping when you reach the left ambient light sensor.
Don't insert the opening pick more than 5 mm.
Once the top edge adhesive has been separated, you can remove the two picks near the ambient light sensors.

Step 14

Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the screen for two minutes.

Step 15

Insert a new opening pick in the bottom right corner below the existing pick.
Don't insert the opening pick more than 2 mm when sliding on the right edge.
Slide the pick around the bottom right corner to separate the adhesive.

Step 16

Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge, stopping at the USB-C port.
Don't insert the opening pick more than 5 mm when separating the bottom edge adhesive.
Leave the pick in to prevent the bottom edge adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 17

Insert a new opening pick to the left of the USB-C port.
Separate the remaining bottom edge adhesive.
Don't insert the opening pick more than 5 mm when separating the bottom edge adhesive.
Leave the pick in the bottom left corner to prevent the bottom edge adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 18

Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the screen for two minutes.

Step 19

The left edge of the iPad contains several display cables. These cables are extremely fragile and easily damaged if an opening pick is inserted too far or at the wrong angle. Follow the instructions exactly as written to avoid damage.
The display cables are located within small indents of the frame and require an opening pick to be inserted at a 45° angle.
There are flat sections of the frame which require an opening pick to be inserted horizontally.

Step 20

Insert an opening pick at a 45˚ angle just above the bottom left corner.
Don't insert the pick more than 5 mm or you'll damage the display cables.
Carefully slide the pick along the left edge, stopping when you reach the flat section of the frame.

Step 21

Lower the opening pick so it is horizontal to the screen.
Don't insert the pick more than 5 mm.
Continue separating the left edge adhesive until you reach the next indented section of the frame.

Step 22

Separate the remaining adhesive, making sure to follow the instructions exactly as written.
Slide the pick at a 45˚ downward angle and don't insert the pick more than 5 mm.
Slide the pick horizontally and don't insert the pick more than 5 mm.

Step 23

Grab two opposing corners of the screen and gently separate the rest of the adhesive.
Don't fully remove the screen as it's held in place by several ribbon cables underneath.
Shift the screen towards the bottom right corner of the frame until the ambient light sensor ribbon cable near the top edge is uncovered.

Step 24

Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the ambient light sensor cable bracket to the logic board:
One 1.3 mm screw
One 2.0 mm screw
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPad and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your iPad back down before you continue working.

Step 25

Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the bracket.

Step 26

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the ambient light sensor cable by lifting straight up on the press connector.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Step 27

Don't try to remove the screen yet, as it's still attached by delicate ribbon cables.
Grip the right edge of the screen and fold it open like a book.
Lay the screen down over the left edge of the iPad.

Step 28

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.2 mm screws securing the bottom cable shield to the logic board.

Step 29

Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the bottom cable shield.

Step 30

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 1.8 mm screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

Step 31

Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the top two display cables.

Step 32

Disconnect the two remaining display cables.

Step 33

Grip the right edge of the screen and lift it away.
During reassembly, before installing a display, remove any remaining adhesive from the frame, and clean the glued areas with high-strength (>90%) isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth. This helps prep the iPad for fresh adhesive and ensures that it will bond properly.
If you plan to reinstall your existing screen, remove any remaining adhesive from the back and clean the adhered areas with isopropyl alcohol.
Follow this guide to install pre-cut adhesive strips on your iPad before sealing it up.

Step 34

The LiDAR sensor assembly is paired to the Face ID hardware. You'll need to transfer it to your replacement screen to keep Face ID functionality. The following steps show how to remove the sensor assembly and install it on your replacement screen.
The LiDAR sensor assembly is composed of four total sensors:
Two ambient light sensors
One proximity sensor
One microphone
You'll need to separate each sensor from the screen before removing the entire assembly.

Step 35

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top of the screen for two minutes.

Step 36

Insert one arm of your angled tweezers between the ambient light sensor and the screen.
Pry up to separate the sensor from the screen.
This might take significant force.
Repeat this procedure for the other ambient light sensor.

The ambient light sensor system is constructed with a few component parts arranged in layers starting with its connection cable down to the last part that is attached to the glass.

It is not super clear from the photos/instructions between which layers we need to pry to separate the sensor from the part that touches the glass. I'd like to see a straight on view of the exposed layer.

I think I ended up separating the ambient light sensors incorrectly; my exposed sensor layers don't look the same as those you see of the stock part for sale on this site. Those have that layer with the small circle, but the instruction photos here show that layer left attached to the glass.

My FaceID doesn't work and I suspect it may be because of this mistake I made.

Chong Lee Khoo -

Step 37

Insert one arm of your angled tweezers between the proximity sensor cable and the screen.
Slide the tweezers toward the screen while prying to separate the sensor from the screen.
This might take significant force and multiple iOpener heating cycles.

Step 38

Peel off any tape covering the microphone.
Set the tape aside. You'll use it during reassembly.

Step 39

Slide an opening tool under the microphone to separate its adhesive.
Pry up to separate the microphone from the screen.

Step 40

Slide an opening pick under the LiDAR sensor assembly cable to separate it from the screen.

Step 41

Continue sliding your opening pick under the LiDAR sensor assembly until it's completely separated from the screen.
Remove the LiDAR sensor assembly.

Step 42

During reassembly, you'll have to perform the following:
Align the LiDAR sensor assembly on your replacement screen.
Use Tesa tape, or similar double-sided tape, to secure the cables to the screen.
Use E6000 adhesive, or similar adhesive, to secure the sensors to their cutouts on the screen.
Only apply adhesive to the edges of the sensors. Placing adhesive on the front will break them.

Step 43

If your replacement screen didn't come with the two removable display cables, follow the next six steps to remove and transfer these cables.
The display cable connectors are located under a bracket near the bottom right corner of the screen.