iPad Air 5th Generation Logic Board Replacement

Written By: Clay Eickemeyer

Comments: 2

iPad Air 5th Generation Logic Board Replacement

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

2 - 3 hours

Introduction

Follow this guide to replace the logic board in your iPad Air 5th Generation.

The Logic Board is paired to the power button. You'll need to transfer the power button with the logic board to keep Touch ID capability.

If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

Some photos in this guide are from a different model and may contain slight visual discrepancies, but they won't affect the guide procedure.

Tools

Parts

iPad Air 4/5 Adhesive Strips

Step 1

Allow your iPad's battery to fully drain before starting this repair. A charged battery may catch fire if damaged during the repair.
Unplug any cables and fully shut down your iPad.

Step 2

Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the screen for two minutes.
You can also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but extreme heat can damage the screen and/or internal battery, so proceed with care.

Step 3

While your iPad looks uniform from the outside, there are delicate components under portions of the screen. To avoid damage, follow instructions exactly as written and note the following areas as you open your iPad:
Camera module and ambient light sensors
Display cables
Screen magnets
Display edges

Step 4

The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
Place an object under your iPad so it rests level between the suction cups.
Position the suction cups near the middle of the left edge—one on the top, and one on the bottom.
Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and firmly press down on the top cup to apply suction.
If you find that the surface of your iPad is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, use tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 5

Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

Step 6

Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
If your screen isn't getting hot enough, you can use a hair dryer to heat along the left edge of the iPad.
For complete instructions on how to use a hair dryer, check out this guide.
Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.
Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next step.

Step 7

If your screen is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.
Apply a suction handle to the top left edge of the screen.
Pull up on the suction handle with firm, constant pressure to create a gap just small enough to insert an opening pick.
Only create a gap small enough to insert an opening pick. Overbending the screen will damage it.
Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.
Don't insert the opening pick more than 3 mm or you'll damage the display edges.
Leave the pick in to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 8

Don't insert the pick more than 3 mm or you'll damage the display edges.
Insert a new opening pick in the gap you just created.
Slide the opening pick along the left edge to separate the adhesive.
Leave the pick in the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 9

Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the screen for two minutes.

Step 10

Don't insert the pick more than 3 mm or you'll damage the display cables.
Insert a new opening pick in the bottom left corner.
Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge to separate the adhesive.
Leave the pick in the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 11

Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the screen for two minutes.

Step 12

The right edge of the iPad contains the screen magnets, display cables, and a digitizer cable. These components are easily damaged if an opening pick is inserted too far.
Insert a new opening pick in the bottom right corner and slide along the right edge to separate the adhesive. Make sure to note the following marked areas:
Don't insert an opening pick more than 2 mm or you'll damage the screen magnets.
The screen magnets are located directly above the SIM card slot (Wi-Fi + Cellular models only) and volume buttons.
Don't insert an opening pick more than 3 mm or you'll damage the display and digitizer cables.
Don't insert an opening pick more than 5 mm or you'll damage the display edges.
Leave the pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 13

Apply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the screen for two minutes.

Step 14

The top edge of the iPad contains the front camera module and two ambient light sensors. These components are easily damaged if an opening pick is inserted too far.
The two ambient light sensors can be hard to see and can be located using a flashlight or by placing the iPad under a bright light.
Insert a new opening pick in the top right corner and slide along the top edge to separate the adhesive. Make sure to note the following:
Don't insert an opening pick more than 5 mm or you'll damage the display edges.
Don't insert an opening pick more than 3 mm or you'll damage the ambient light sensors.
Don't insert an opening pick more than 2 mm or you'll damage the front camera module.
Leave the pick in the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 15

Don't try to remove the screen yet, as it's still attached to the frame by delicate ribbon cables.
Grip the left edge of the screen and fold it open like a book.
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPad and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your iPad back down before you continue working.

Step 16

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 1.8 mm screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Step 17

These photos show what the battery connector looks like underneath the logic board. Use these photos as a reference while you safely disconnect the battery.
Notice that the battery connector has cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you'll need to slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to disconnect the battery.

Achtung! Die kleinen Kontakte sind sehr empfindlich und brechen leicht, wenn sie seitlich gebogen werden.
Beachte das unbedingt bei Schritt 18!

Andreas Kröll -

Step 18

Cut two 6 mm wide strips from a playing card or cardstock to use as a battery blocker.
The strips should be about 4 cm long so you can easily grip them.

Step 19

Insert the card strips on each side of the battery connector until they stop.

ACHTUNG: Bewege die Streifen niemals seitwärts! Die kleineren Kontakt können dabei leicht abbrechen und dann hast Du ein größeres Problem.

Andreas Kröll -

Step 20

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws securing the display and digitizer cable brackets to the logic board:
Two 1.1 mm screws
One 1.5 mm screw

Step 21

The display cable bracket is held in place by a small latch at the bottom.
Use tweezers or your fingers to pivot the latch out from the top and remove the bracket.

Step 22

Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the digitizer cable bracket.

Step 23

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the two display cables by lifting straight up on the press connectors.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend and cause permanent damage.

Step 24

Repeat the previous step for the digitizer cable.

Step 25

Grip the left edge of the screen and lift it away.
During reassembly, before installing a screen, remove any remaining adhesive from the frame, and clean the glued areas with high-strength (>90%) isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth. This helps prep the iPad for fresh adhesive and ensures that it will bond properly.
If you plan to reinstall your existing screen, remove any remaining adhesive from the back and clean the adhered areas with isopropyl alcohol.
Follow this guide to install pre-cut adhesive strips on your iPad before sealing it up.

Step 26

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 1.2 mm screw securing the front camera cable bracket to the frame.

Step 27

Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the front camera cable bracket.

Step 28

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the two display cables by lifting straight up on the press connectors.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend and cause permanent damage.
Use tweezers to remove the front camera.
The camera is secured to the frame with weak foam adhesive.
During reassembly, use a small piece of Tesa tape to secure the front camera to the frame.

Step 29

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 1.8 mm screw securing the rear camera cable bracket to the frame.

Step 30

Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the rear camera cable bracket.

Step 31

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the rear camera press connector.

Step 32

The rear camera is secured to the frame with strong adhesive.
Lay the iPad screen side down.
Apply a heated iOpener to the rear camera for two minutes to weaken the adhesive.

Step 33

Lay the iPad screen side up.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the rear camera.
If it's difficult to pry the camera up, apply a heated iOpener, wait two minutes, and try again.
Don't use isopropyl alcohol to weaken the adhesive or you'll damage the rear camera.
Remove the rear camera.
During reassembly, you can reuse the adhesive in the frame if it's still intact and clean.
If the adhesive is damaged or dirty, use tweezers to remove it and use a small piece of Tesa tape to secure the rear camera to the frame.

Step 34

At this point, you'll need to disconnect numerous connectors from the logic board. During reassembly, use these photos as a reference to ensure all cables are connected in the correct locations.

Step 35

Use tweezers to peel away the tape covering the top microphone ZIF connector.

Step 36

Use tweezers or a spudger to lift up the latch on the ZIF connector.
Use tweezers to pull the top microphone cable out of its socket.

Step 37

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the top speaker cable by prying straight up on the rear of the connector.

Step 38

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the top left interconnect cable.

Step 39

To disconnect coaxial cables like this. Insert the pointed end of a spudger underneath the rear of the connector and lift it up.
Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the top left Wi-Fi antenna cable.
To reinstall, hold the connector in place and gently press straight down. The connector will “snap” into its socket much like the metal snaps on a jacket.

Step 40

Use tweezers or your fingers to peel the top left Wi-Fi antenna cable off of the top interconnect cable.

Step 41

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the power and volume button cables.

Step 42

The volume button and rear microphone cable is secured to the frame with weak adhesive.
Insert the flat end of a spudger under the volume button and rear microphone cable.
If it's difficult to insert the spudger, heat the rear microphone to weaken the adhesive.
Bend the cable to the right so the two Wi-Fi and cellular antenna cables underneath are accessible.

Step 43

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the two top right antenna cables.

Step 44

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the top right antenna cable.
The cable is secured to the logic board by a piece of tape.
Peel the tape away while removing the cable.

Step 45

Disconnect the top right antenna interconnect cable:
Peel off the tape
Flip up the latch
Pull out the cable

Step 46

Apply a few drops of high-strength (>90%) isopropyl alcohol along the edges of the top interconnect flex cable.
Let the alcohol soak for one minute to soften the adhesive under the cable.

Step 47

Insert an opening pick under the interconnect flex cable.
Slide the pick under the cable towards the logic board to separate the adhesive.
If it's difficult to insert or slide the pick, apply more isopropyl alcohol, wait one minute, and try again.

Step 48

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the four antenna cables below the volume buttons.

Step 49

The Apple Pencil charger cable is located in the center on the right edge of the logic board.
Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the Apple Pencil charger connector.

Step 50

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the Apple Pencil charger cable.
Don't pry against the short sides of the connector. The socket on the logic board is delicate and may break off if pried against.

Step 51

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the bottom speaker cable by prying straight up on the rear of the connector.

Step 52

Disconnect the SIM card reader cable:
Peel off the tape
Flip up the latch
Pull out the cable

Step 53

Disconnect the bottom right antenna interconnect cable:
Peel off the tape
Flip up the latch
Pull out the cable

Step 54

The bottom right antenna interconnect cable is secured to the frame with some weak adhesive.
Use tweezers or your fingers to peel back the bottom right antenna interconnect cable.
If the cable is difficult to remove, use a few drops of high-strength (>90%) isopropyl alcohol to soften the adhesive.

Step 55

Use your fingers to lift and unroute the antenna cable harness away from the right edge of the iPad.

Step 56

The antenna cables at the bottom are secured to the frame with stiff glue. Pull slowly to avoid tearing them.
Gently pull on the antenna cable harness to separate them from the frame.
During reassembly, use small strips of Tesa tape to secure the antenna cables to the frame.

Step 57

Disconnect the Smart Connector cable:
Peel off the tape
Flip up the latch
Pull out the cable

Step 58

The Smart Connector cable is secured to the frame with weak adhesive.
Insert the flat end of a spudger under the Smart Connector cable.
Slide the flat end of a spudger under the cable to separate it from the frame.
If the cable is difficult to remove, use a few drops of high-strength (>90%) isopropyl alcohol to soften the adhesive.

Step 59

Repeat the previous step to disconnect and separate the lower left antenna interconnect cable.

Step 60

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 2 mm screws securing the USB-C port to the frame.
If you can't insert the screwdriver in the screw head, use tweezers to remove the glue on the sides of the screws.

Step 61

Insert a spudger under the USB-C port cable.
Lift the USB-C port out of its slot in the frame.

Step 62

Use tweezers to remove the two grounding contacts in the USB-C port recess.

Step 63

Prop the top side of the iPad up so the isopropyl alcohol can flow under the USB-C port cable.
Apply a few drops of high-strength (>90%) isopropyl alcohol along the top edge of the USB-C port cable.
Let the alcohol soak for one minute to soften the adhesive under the cable.

Step 64

Insert an opening pick under the USB-C port flex cable.
Slide the pick along the cable towards the logic board to separate the adhesive.
If it's difficult to insert or slide the pick, apply more isopropyl alcohol, wait one minute, and try again.

Step 65

Prop the right side of the iPad up so the isopropyl alcohol can flow under the logic board.
Apply a few drops of high-strength (>90%) isopropyl alcohol along the right edge of the logic board.
Let the alcohol soak for one minute to soften the adhesive under the logic board.

Step 66

Insert an opening pick under the right edge of the logic board.
Pry up and slide along the right edge of the logic board to separate the adhesive securing it to the frame.
Bending or warping the logic board could lead to permanent damage. If it's difficult to insert or slide the pick, apply more isopropyl alcohol and wait one minute.

Step 67

Insert a plastic card under the right edge of the logic board.
Pry up and slide along the right edge of the logic board to separate any remaining adhesive.
Bending or warping the logic board could lead to permanent damage. If it's difficult to insert or slide the card, apply more isopropyl alcohol and wait one minute.

Step 68

Grip the logic board at the top and bottom edges.
Lift out the logic board.
Remove the old adhesive from the rear case and bottom of the logic board using tweezers and high concentration isopropyl alcohol with a lint-free cloth where needed.
During reassembly, apply strips of Tesa tape to the bottom of the logic board.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad Air 5th Generation answers community for help.

Author

Clay Eickemeyer

Member since: 19/09/22

65190 Reputation

iPad Air 5th Generation Logic Board Replacement

Introduction

Tools

Parts

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