iPad Air 4 Screen Replacement

Written By: Chayton Ritter

Comments: 14

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

Follow this guide to remove or replace the Screen on your iPad Air 4.

If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Allow your iPad's battery to fully drain before starting this repair. A charged battery may catch fire if damaged during the repair.
Unplug any cables and fully shut down your iPad.

Step 2

Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the screen for two minutes.
You can also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but extreme heat can damage the screen and/or internal battery, so proceed with care.

Step 3

While your iPad looks uniform from the outside, there are delicate components under portions of the screen. To avoid damage, follow instructions exactly as written and note the following areas as you open your iPad:
Camera module and ambient light sensors
Display cables
Screen magnets
Display edges

Step 4

The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
Place an object under your iPad so it rests level between the suction cups.
Position the suction cups near the middle of the left edge—one on the top, and one on the bottom.
Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and firmly press down on the top cup to apply suction.
If you find that the surface of your iPad is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, use tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 5

Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

Step 6

Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
If your screen isn't getting hot enough, you can use a hair dryer to heat along the left edge of the iPad.
For complete instructions on how to use a hair dryer, check out this guide.
Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.
Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next step.

Step 7

If your screen is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.
Apply a suction handle to the top left edge of the screen.
Pull up on the suction handle with firm, constant pressure to create a gap just small enough to insert an opening pick.
Only create a gap small enough to insert an opening pick. Overbending the screen will damage it.
Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.
Don't insert the opening pick more than 3 mm or you'll damage the display edges.
Leave the pick in to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 8

Don't insert the pick more than 3 mm or you'll damage the display edges.
Insert a new opening pick in the gap you just created.
Slide the opening pick along the left edge to separate the adhesive.
Leave the pick in the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 9

Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the screen for two minutes.

Step 10

Don't insert the pick more than 3 mm or you'll damage the display cables.
Insert a new opening pick in the bottom left corner.
Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge to separate the adhesive.
Leave the pick in the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 11

Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the screen for two minutes.

Step 12

The right edge of the iPad contains the screen magnets, display cables, and a digitizer cable. These components are easily damaged if an opening pick is inserted too far.
Insert a new opening pick in the bottom right corner and slide along the right edge to separate the adhesive. Make sure to note the following marked areas:
Don't insert an opening pick more than 2 mm or you'll damage the screen magnets.
The screen magnets are located directly above the SIM card slot (Wi-Fi + Cellular models only) and volume buttons.
Don't insert an opening pick more than 3 mm or you'll damage the display and digitizer cables.
Don't insert an opening pick more than 5 mm or you'll damage the display edges.
Leave the pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 13

Apply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the screen for two minutes.

Step 14

The top edge of the iPad contains the front camera module and two ambient light sensors. These components are easily damaged if an opening pick is inserted too far.
The two ambient light sensors can be hard to see and can be located using a flashlight or by placing the iPad under a bright light.
Insert a new opening pick in the top right corner and slide along the top edge to separate the adhesive. Make sure to note the following:
Don't insert an opening pick more than 5 mm or you'll damage the display edges.
Don't insert an opening pick more than 3 mm or you'll damage the ambient light sensors.
Don't insert an opening pick more than 2 mm or you'll damage the front camera module.
Leave the pick in the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 15

Don't try to remove the screen yet, as it's still attached to the frame by delicate ribbon cables.
Grip the left edge of the screen and fold it open like a book.
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPad and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your iPad back down before you continue working.

Step 16

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 1.8 mm screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Step 17

These photos show what the battery connector looks like underneath the logic board. Use these photos as a reference while you safely disconnect the battery.
Notice that the battery connector has cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you'll need to slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to disconnect the battery.

Achtung! Die kleinen Kontakte sind sehr empfindlich und brechen leicht, wenn sie seitlich gebogen werden.
Beachte das unbedingt bei Schritt 18!

Andreas Kröll -

Step 18

Cut two 6 mm wide strips from a playing card or cardstock to use as a battery blocker.
The strips should be about 4 cm long so you can easily grip them.

Step 19

Insert the card strips on each side of the battery connector until they stop.

ACHTUNG: Bewege die Streifen niemals seitwärts! Die kleineren Kontakt können dabei leicht abbrechen und dann hast Du ein größeres Problem.

Andreas Kröll -

Step 20

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws securing the display and digitizer cable brackets to the logic board:
Two 1.1 mm screws
One 1.5 mm screw

Step 21

The display cable bracket is held in place by a small latch at the bottom.
Use tweezers or your fingers to pivot the latch out from the top and remove the bracket.

Step 22

Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the digitizer cable bracket.

Step 23

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the two display cables by lifting straight up on the press connectors.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend and cause permanent damage.

Step 24

Repeat the previous step for the digitizer cable.

Step 25

Grip the left edge of the screen and lift it away.
During reassembly, before installing a screen, remove any remaining adhesive from the frame, and clean the glued areas with high-strength (>90%) isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth. This helps prep the iPad for fresh adhesive and ensures that it will bond properly.
If you plan to reinstall your existing screen, remove any remaining adhesive from the back and clean the adhered areas with isopropyl alcohol.
Follow this guide to install pre-cut adhesive strips on your iPad before sealing it up.

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad Air 4 answers community for help.

12 comments

Does anyone know if the screen is paired to the device? As in if I replace the screen will I still have true tone?

Sharzy 720 -

With transfering the assembly, called "Induction", which is placing on the top of the display, from your used iPad, Face ID and True Tone will work properly WITHOUT reprogramming them, that's because True Tone of the iPad isn't paired to them, not as iPhone's.

MU-TON -

Thank you for your answer. So basically I don't need to transfer any parts from the old screen to the new screen in order to keep the full features.

Sharzy 720 -

Yes but I heard that in recent update that kind of error happened, so you should ensure about it

MU-TON -

iPad Air 4 won't charge after screen replacement (screen from iFixit).⏎
No message, no indication on why it doesn't.

Screen and touch work fine.⏎
Any ideas?

Andreas Kröll -

Siri said the battery is "at 100%", but the on screen indicator shows empty and the device powers down almost immediately.
No charge indication on screen...
One more thought: I had the battery blocker inserted for 4 days waiting for the adhesive tape to arrive.

Andreas Kröll -

After opening it agein I found that one of the smaller battery contacts was broken, probably happened when inserting the battery blocker strips.

So be adviced:
****** ***NEVER move the battery blocker sideways, not even a bit!!!****** It will easily break your battery contacs!!! *********

Andreas Kröll -

same problem here, did you fix it?

Gaetano Oliva -

This was a difficult repair with a severely cracked screen, but after a ton of patience and time picking away and the cracked bits, I was able to remove the old screen and replace with the new. I wasn’t able to disconnect the battery as suggested, but I was careful in how I handled the open iPad Air. Having the right tools for the job was a big help too. I purchased the iOpener and Anti-Clamp after failed attempts with a heating bag (one filled with beans) and a hair dryer. I had other suction devices which helped too, but was limited by the cracker screen, even after covering it in tape. Thanks for the detailed walk through!

Chad Neumann - 31/12/23

iPad Air 4 won't charge after screen replacement (screen from iFixit).
No message, no indication on why it doesn't.

Screen and touch work fine.
Any ideas?

Andreas Kröll -

I opened the iPad again and found that one of the smaller battery contacts broke, probably when inserting the battery blocker strips.
Let's see if I can solder on something to replace it - everything is VERY small in there. I just hope that I won't need a replacement device now...

So be adviced:
****** NEVER move the battery blocker sideways, not even a bit!!!*** It will easily break your battery contacs!!! *********

Andreas Kröll - 02/01/24

Successful repair! The worst part was getting a severely cracked screen off. The anti-clamp didn't help a bit due to the severe cracking, but a hair dryer, suction cup, and a lot of patience did it in the end. (Start with largest piece of intact glass on the left and then work your way around to the right side; the instructions seem to be written as if you want to save the screen.) The next worst part was the battery blocker (takes a lot of force to separate the battery contact, even after removing the screw). Having the iOpener tool kit made things a lot easier. About a four hour repair from opening the kit to cleaning up afterwards, and having pre-discharged the battery before starting the repair.

nevis - 01/02/24