iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546 Hard Drive Replacement

Written By: Andrew Optimus Goldheart

Comments: 223

iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546 Hard Drive Replacement

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

1 hour

Introduction

Follow this guide to replace the hard drive for your iMac. Replacing the hard drive requires separating the display and moving the left speaker.

This guide also includes steps to upgrade your iMac's hard drive with an SSD. It describes how to install the SSD's temperature sensor so that the Mac's fans will operate at the correct speed.

Before beginning any work on your iMac: Unplug the computer and press and hold the power button for ten seconds to discharge the power supply's capacitors.

Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

With the hinge free to move, the iMac will be unbalanced and hard to work on. Repairs can be completed with the iMac laying down, but are faster and easier with an iMac service wedge.
If you are using the iFixit cardboard service wedge, follow these assembly directions to put it together.

This instruction page is not clear and is ambiguous if you have to do all the steps to just change the power supply please clarify another words do I have to remove the speaker and the hard drive to replace the power supply?

crawfordjohn -

This is a display removal guide not the power supply guide!Here’s the guide you need to follow for that iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546 Power Supply Replacement

Dan -

Didn’t need the cardboard wedge to remove the display. Waste of money. Lay your Mac on its back.

James Clive -

Die verlinkte Karton-Reparaturhilfe ist für den 21"-iMac. Passt sie auch 1:1 für das 27"-Modell?

Stefan -

Step 2

Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the iMac Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear case.
The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert no more than 3/8" (9.5 mm) into the display. You risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage.

Would a heat gun make this step easier? Or damage the iMac?

Clark Green - 31/08/17

A heat gun wouldn’t help you here as you still need to cut though the adhesive. You also risk damaging the display with the excessive heat.

Dan - 01/12/17

Removing the original adhesive is easier than removing newly applied adhesive (e.g., if you have to reopen iMac). If you should happen to need to reopen the iMac, please use extreme caution and highly consider my suggestions below.

When using the pizza cutter tool, do the first few steps in reverse starting with step 8. Starting on the left side is better since this is where the adhesive is narrowest. The right side has two antennas and the top right has one, see the pictures for step 18-21, they are the brass colored metal rectangles near the edges. The adhesive on these pieces are wider and therefore have more holding power. The thickness of the pizza cutter tool is enough to crack the glass.

Walter Hayden - 29/12/17

Continuing from my previous comment. To remove the adhesive on the right side you’ll need to create a very slight gap to give the pizza cutter some more room. Do this by cutting the adhesive on the left side up and around to the camera. Before attempting to cut the right side. Carefully slide the plastic cards (I purchased two sets) to ensure the adhesive on the left top and side is completely free. Now slowly move towards the right side. After every inch or two of removing new adhesive, slide the card over to create this slight gap. Be careful to not move the card too close to where the adhesive has not been cut. You want to create a very slight gap without creating too much pressure. Use extra caution with approaching the areas where the antenna are since the adhesive is stronger here and will need some additional cutting. Follow this approach all the way around the right side. Be careful to not create too much pressure at any one time. Good Luck!.

Walter Hayden - 29/12/17

I can confirm with Walter - trying to remove freshly applied adhesive is WAAAAY harder! My pizza cutter didn’t work correctly (the circle became a rectangle!) and I ended up with a small crack on the left of my screen. Dang it!

Benon Koebsch - 08/05/19

I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

Luke Gibson - 29/03/18

I performed this on a Late 2015 iMac and there weren’t any significant differences to these steps, but I did find the repair to be nerve-wracking. My model cost nearly $3,000 and about 10 steps into this guide (which I did fully read ahead of time) I was thinking, “what have I got myself into?” But I didn’t rush and happily I’m typing this on my repaired iMac! I found a video from OWC that was more useful than the photos in this guide for certain steps: https://vimeo.com/139364064

Anthony Zimmerman - 10/04/18

Don’t know if you are still around, but THANK YOU for posting this video! The video made it seem SO NOT SCARY and, in conjunction with the photos and comments and tips on this guide, was a lifesaver. Big thumbs up.

Melissa Ortiz - 27/07/20

First impressions so far: yes it can be a bit nerve wrecking if it is your first time doing this sort of thing and even with lots of experience with a 2011 model it’s still a bit unsettling haha (nervous laughter).

What I recommend: use a guitar pick to start cutting the glue. You’ll need a bit of pressure so do just the tip.

Once you’ve done the whole perimeter (minus bottom) do it again but now it should be easier to go deeper so go very slow and careful. Then get the old suction cups used to open older models and start lifting the display very carefully to see where it’s still glued and cut those as well.

Then you should be done and now the real fun begins! :D

Carlos Ferrari - 02/04/19

It’s ridiculous. Apple should pay for doing this. Like glue parts together to block a repair / make difficult. I smashed my iMac. FU Apple. Seriously, every product I owned had hardware issues. For example, bad solder joints. Never again Apple. I’m happy with Windows and in 2018 / 2019 there are many other manufacturers with high quality stuff. Apple is dying, if they do not change …

Depple - 10/04/19

NOTE: I followed every step word for word, but the adhesive strips supplied are as bad as double sided tape. Within 48hours the screen had slipped off and cracked. Now I need to fork out for a new screen and try again.

Not sure what to try next time with strips? Perhaps a bit of glue to help hold it??

Dan Kelly - 17/07/19

Where do i get the “iMac Opening Tool?” its neither in the list of tools nor could i find it on the tool page.

Patrick Cella - 04/09/19

Hi @snappadoodle! The opening tool is included in the adhesive kit included in the tool list, but you can purchase it separately here.

Sam Goldheart - 05/09/19

After disconnecting the power cord and before cutting the panel adhesive, push and hold the power button for 10 seconds. This will discharge the power supply capacitors. In case you accidentally touch the solder joints on the board, you won't be shocked and drop the panel.

Paul Floro - 03/02/20

Bottom line: This repair seems to have worked (so far no more intermittent shut-downs). Thanks iFixit!

As a novice who fully expected to destroy the display or worse, I make the following recommendations: (1) Before you start, read the steps several (many) times; visualize doing them and imagine how things could go wrong; (2) Read all the comments—there were some really helpful tips—like simply displacing the left speaker rather than fully removing it; (3) Get the recommended tools*; and (4) take your time—if you start to feel frustrated—seriously, stop and take a calming breath. Time is your friend. Failure is not an option.

*I would add a 3-prong parts puller to the tool list—it’s great for pulling and starting loose screws so you don’t drop them down into the chassis like I did. It’s also great for retrieving the screws you’ve dropped into the chassis.

Brad Bauknecht - 16/07/20

Hi brad, what exactly did you repair to stop the shutdowns? I’m having the same issue

merinian - 08/09/20

Merinian: I replaced the power supply and it’s still working fine at this late date. No more intermittent shut-downs. Fingers still crossed!

Brad Bauknecht - 16/02/21

Just completed the Core i5 to i7 CPU upgrade and can strongly recommend getting the “pizza tool” to cut the display adhesive. It worked flawlessly and was done in less than 5 minutes. No inadvertent cables cut. No display problems.

John Fisk - 14/08/20

Thank you very much for the instructive tutorial. I just successfully replaced the hard drive on my 2012 iMac 27. I used a disposable surgical scalpel 15 blade, and locked the blade extending 9 mm from the scalpel shaft using office tape. I used regular double sided tape to reattach the screen. I cut the strips using the scalpel. I have no previous computer experience and this is the first time I replaced a computer part. This was easy and fun.

Filip Dolatowski - Friday 11th Dec 2020

Filip Dolatowski - 11/12/20

You are very lucky! I’ve had three systems come in which someone did the exact same thing! All three cut the display ribbon cables. Please don’t use surgical knifes or any other knife! Use the proper tool the special pizza cutter wheel designed for the task.

You likely spent more on the knifes than what the wheel cost with the correct tapes. You make the next time doubly hard to open not using the correct tapes! Hows the built in microphone? You may have messed it up.

Dan - 11/12/20

Thank you very much for the tutorial. You are the best!

After reading all the post here I almost gave up doing this on my own. But I did it anyway and was succesful. I would recommend everyone to use the rollcutter. There is no risk of harming the screen if you use it. And in my case it was enough to open the imac. If you do not harm the screen connector or the screen the biggest part is done. It gets easier once you`ve stacked your screen somewhere safe. The parts inside are mostely not as delicate as the heavy and expensive screen!

Take your time and work carefully. It is definitely doable!

CONSULTINEL - 10/03/21

I found the cutter tool that came with my kit to work just fine. The wheel is extremely thin and I had no problem inserting the wheel to begin cutting. I follow the guide for the most part but took my time and use the cutting wheel slowly and then repeated the process a few times. Once I was able to pry the screen back about an inch I used the other end of the tool to cut additional adhesive that was still clinging to the body of the iMac and the screen. Having just replaced the power supply, and having my iMac running again, I do not think I will use the adhesive strips to reattach the screen. The screen fit back in place no problem which I did to test my Mac. Because the iMac screen sits at an angle I am quite comfortable that the screen is not gonna fall off. Also while having a screen off I was able to clean the inside of the Mac of dust buildup. I think I will only use the adhesive strips down the road if I’m gonna sell the Mac, which means I can give it a good clean before securing the screen.

James Orwin -

If the screen falls off (which it will do!) it will damage the parts which would be a lot more expensive! PLEASE get the correct tapes and properly mount the screen back on.

Think of it this way how many people have shot them selves with a gun not realizing it was loaded or set to go off!

Dan -

I think Dan is right as I decided it best to complete the process with the adhesive tapes to secure the screen. I just took some time to do a complete clean of the interior before sealing the display.

James Orwin -

Ordered the full kit to replace my busted 3TB disc hard drive. All the tools work and are excellent. These pictorial and instructional install videos are complete, easy to use, and have good imagery. The 2TB SSD installed exactly as depicted. I used some 3M double sided automotive emblem tape to stick adapter to iMac case, no probs there. The adhesive strips also worked fine and stick firmly. Screen is solidly mounted, no falling out here. IFixit is awesome and this kit saved my over $1200 in getting another iMac. Highly recommended.

Rick Pierce -

Step 3

Use the tool like a pizza cutter—roll it along through the gap, and it will cut the foam adhesive through the center.
Be sure to always push with the handle behind the cutting wheel. If you pull, the wheel might get pulled out of the handle.
Run the tool up along the left side of the display.

I found the 'pizza cutter' surprisingly smooth at cutting through four-year-old adhesive.

Gerry - 24/10/16

In my experience the cutter also worked very well for cutting the original adhesive. Unfortunately when I was reinstalling the display with the new adhesive strips, somehow the display power connector came loose. I had to open the display a second time and the cutter was not as effective against the new adhesive. I managed to break the cutter tool plastic wheel and cause a few small cracks in the edge of the displays glass as I worked! Be careful and go slowly!

azaadkb - 21/01/20

The cutting tool worked great until I accidentally twisted it a bit while rounding a corner. A chunk of the wheel snapped off, making the rest of the job quite a bit more challenging. Just make sure you are keeping the tool directly parallel with the screen.

BARRY RODRIGUEZ - 22/02/20

I concur, opening the screen a 2nd time is considerably more difficult because the adhesive strips are thinner than the original, which makes getting the cutting tool inserted much more difficult….as a result unknowingly I elongated a small crack to a much longer crack and somehow, the LCD now has a wide grey strip from top to bottom….The first time opening was easy, second time resulted in a ruined screen.. The cost of. a replacement LCD is the same has replacing the entire computer….I would recommend anyone attempting to remove the screen for any reason, do not use the aftermarket adhesive strips if you ever intend to open it up; again, or cut the strips much shorter, or possibly use a few pieces of scotch tape or similar to hold the screen in place….since the screen tilts back, this should not be a problem…Good luck…

S. Baxter - 16/01/21

Step 4

Continue wheeling the tool up around the top left corner.

Step 5

Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display.

The pizza cutter will sink in all the way to the tool handle when the adhesive is full cut, but don’t feel you have to do this in one motion. Some parts cut easier and some require a lot (like 20x) of gentle back and forth.

Anthony Zimmerman - 10/04/18

Step 6

Continue along the top of the display.
You may want to run the tool back and forth through what you've already cut a few times, to ensure you get as much of the adhesive separated as possible.

what about the part where the camera is though? do I just treat it like the rest of the screen?

Boris - 16/05/20

yes. the tool can’t go too deep

flow in - 25/05/20

I measured a depth several positions.

- About 6 centimeters near iSight Camera center, you must no use iMac opening tool, because iSight element exists.

- iMac opening tool has a 9mm radius, so it may break iSight camera element.

- Making a plastic card stacking 2 or 3 to 3mm, under the iMac opening tool, that makes inserting a gap 5~6mm like below.

@. iMac opening tool

====== plastic card3 (credit card 1mm)

====== plastic card2 (1mm)

====== platic card1. (1mm)

———————————————— isight camera element (total 5~6cm) ————

In my case, i got a display problem where lcd display yellow connector was torn without care.

Be helpful.

KWANGBOK, LEE - 21/11/20

Step 7

Push the tool around the top right corner of the display.

Step 8

Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display.

Step 9

Finish pushing the opening tool to the bottom of the right side of the display.
At this point, you'll want to run the tool back around the entire display, to ensure you cut as much adhesive as possible.

I didn’t have the fancy cutter or cards. So I used my actual pizza cutter. Followed directions just the same, and it easily cut through the adhesive w/o issues or marring the surfaces. Actually used it to rock back and forth to lift the screen. It’s all about taking your time. I rolled it back and further until cut thru. The 3/8 to 1/4 inch is right, but the screen framing actually prevents further depth unless you force it further. The adhesive actually protected the glass while cutting thru, so no damage. Great instructions, but where to get the replacement adhesive to reinstall?? Should be four independent strips.

Keith Thomas -

You are very lucky you didn't cut to deep! The plastic cutter that's in the kit is the only thing I would use. Spending a few bucks on a tool is a lot cheaper than $500 for a new display!

Please don't use a real pizza cutter!

Dan -

Step 10

While the opening tool did the lion's share of the work, the display will still be slightly adhered to the case. A plastic card will be necessary to free up the last of this adhesive.
Set the iMac face-up on a table.
Starting from the top right corner of the iMac, insert a plastic card between the display and frame.
Be careful not to insert it more than 3/8" (9.5 mm), or you may damage internal components.

I actually DESTROYED my display (black vertical strips) by pushing the card in a bit TOO DEEP. So it is REALLY important to insert the card only a bit (1-2mm) more than the cutter wheel, in particular at the top side, where many flat cables connect the panel with the PCB. These can be damaged very easily!

Peter Fischer - 30/06/17

Same thing with me…. Pushed cards to far…. new panel needed…€600…..

i think ifixit needs to place a bigger caveat, as I have missed it the first time

Edgar Broekema - 17/11/17

i successfully upgraded two imacs. one opened with ifixit pizza knife and another with a regular paper knife. however, when i had to open the first one once again i broke its screen glass. it seems ifixit adhesive strips are too strong. next time i’ll try to use heater to weaken glue tension.

Eugene Kharkov - 25/12/17

I broke one too. And even if you think you did it correctly, you’ll not be able to see where you might have gone too far. You would think it’s very protected behind that metal plate, but no. Take special care with this offence to “right to repair” This should have been designed WAY better. I mean replacing a hardrive that is very likely to fail over the course of time, or even a simple desire to upgrade to an ssd!.

Bummer

Denis Sytmen - 19/01/19

HINT: If you turn the card and use the blue part of it, then you can avoid going to deep: no further then the blue part …

Barthold - 07/10/19

On the cards I got with my iFixit kit, the blue part was way bigger than 9.5mm — closer to 20mm!

I made a line 9mm from the edge of each of my cards and used that as a guide.

Damian Chadwick - 20/04/20

I’m thinking I might just use vinyl tape to keep the screen in place for at least a little while after an upgrade. The extra strength of the replacement tape sounds scary.

Art Hackett - 26/10/19

I wrapped two layers of vinyl electrical tape around the short side of an old gift card 3/8” from the edge. This “stop" prevented the card from going in too far. The card really helps to break the panel free.

Paul Floro - 03/02/20

This is a good tip!

Lennart Saaf - 20/10/20

Great idea! Wish I had read this before doing it. My less then optimal solution was to draw lines 3/8” around the cards, not as safe as your fix, but fast.

Michael Piplani - 03/01/21

Umm.. I’m not sure that I’d recommend using a repurposed credit card to open the display - I found that using the “pizza tool” to cut the old adhesive then using a pair of suction cups to gently pull the display up worked perfectly well.

John Fisk - 14/08/20

surely the card should have been designed such not to go further than certain distance with a barrier band.

S Hussain - 21/10/20

The cards don’t have any means to control the depth, its your skills which control it. Its no different from how you use a knife to cut your chicken up when you serve it for dinner.

Dan - 03/01/21

The pizza roller tool is enough to cut through the adhesive. You dont need to cut in a lot further. So the cards are really not necessary.

sebastian.wittl - 07/03/21

might be a stupid question but would credit cards or state ids work too?

John Ta -

You need the pizza cutter! The cards are used to hold the display off of the case frame.

As for as using old credit cards and useless ID cards sure they will work. I wouldn’t use anything important ;-}

Dan -

No problems. I used two old credit cards and marked out a line using permanent marker so it was at the same depth as stipulated on this page. I even pushed it in a little deeper and no issues.

James Clive -

Step 11

Gently twist the plastic card to open the space between the display and frame, and cut any remaining adhesive near the corner.
Using too much force will crack the glass. Work carefully, and don't try to create a gap any larger than about 1/4" (6 mm).

My children tend to collect cards like this from hotels, Disneyland, old IDs, iTunes cards, gift cards etc. They came in handy for this step. After wedging in the first card into the left corner, I wedged the left corner, then added cards along the bottom edge. Finally I continued to push in additional cards to existing cards and found that this created a smooth even pressure along the display top. At 2-3 card-thickness the last of the adhesive let go, gentle as a baby.

Anthony Zimmerman - 10/04/18

Step 12

Be sure to stop cutting before the iSight camera in this step, or you may damage it.
Slide the card toward the center of the display, to cut any remaining adhesive.

was denn jetzt? Vor der Kamera aufhören, oder in Richtung Bildschirmmitte schieben, um DEN REST zu entfernen? Wenn ich vor der Kamera aufhöre, kann ich nicht alles an Kleber entfernen.

Julia S. - 05/08/18

Step 13

Put the card into the corner again and let it stay there to keep the adhesive from resettling.

Step 14

Insert a second card into the gap between the display and frame in the top left corner.

Step 15

Gently twist the card, slightly increasing the space between the display and frame.
As with the other side, move slowly to allow the adhesive to break, and be careful not to over-stress the display glass.

Step 16

Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera.

Step 17

Insert the card back into the top left corner.

Step 18

Only lift the display a few inches—it is still attached to the iMac by data and power cables.
With the cards inserted as shown near the corners, gently twist the cards to increase the gap between display and case.
If there are any sections that seem to stick and won't separate, stop twisting and use one of the cards to cut the adhesive in the problem area.
Begin to lift the top of the display up from the frame.

I would recommend using suction cups at this stage to lift the display.

Marco De Palma - 21/07/18

I would strongly recommend using suction cups

Luca Mucci - 24/02/20

Agreed about the suction cups. An extra pair of hands might be good here as well.

Damian Chadwick - 20/04/20

I agree, I’m using iFixit suction cups right now.

tanner85 - 21/08/20

Go very slowly when lifting the display – give time for the adhesive at the bottom edge to stretch and flow. If you lift too fast, the glass can crack. That’s what happened for me.

Gerry - 17/10/20

The stickiest location on my iMac was the mid-to-lower section of the right side. There are a couple of thicker areas that needed attention from the plastic cards.

Lennart Saaf - 20/10/20

This is the step where I cracked the screen.

HABEEB102 - 05/12/20

Did you use the pizza cutter tool first?

Dan - 05/12/20

WARNING!!! This is where you can crack you screen. TAKE YOUR TIME! Everything work fine for me because I took my time. I was very shocked at how fragile the screen is. It does have a small amount of flex but don’t push your luck. There were two things that made this easy for me #1 Once you have used the cutting wheel to your best judgement to cut the adhesive, start using the iFixIt plastic cards as spacers and space them evenly around the screen. I used 10 individual cards of and gently moved them up and down at each section two at a time. Once I started having less resistance, I combined 2(i.e. 5 sets total) cards evenly space to allow for move rigid and stronger movement to separate the screen. This really helped me to free up more adhesive. #2 before lifting the screen up fully, use tweezers to pull the adhesive like a string from around the entire monitor. This will make lifting the screen much easier since all adhesive will be removed. Finally when lifting the screen use the cards with your hands under them.

Andrew Phillips - 10/10/21

Would any of you consider the possibility of heating the glass with a hot-air fan before starting the process? In that way, the adhesive would let the screen go easier, I think.

ManuG -

The type of tape has a lot to do with it. If the original tapes are still present then the pizza tool slices through the thin foam core of the tape so heating is not needed. If on the other hand someone replaced the tapes with just regular double sided tapes then there is no foam core to split and there is a sizable risk the display will get damaged in the process of taking it off. So sure in this case a bit of heat might help, just be aware the LCD panel area is quite close to the edge along the top three sides so you also have the risk of dating it from over heating!

Dan -

If not for iFixit tuts and tools, no way I could do this. iMac 27" takes the prize as the worst design ever for upgrades/maintenance, what were they smoking when they designed it like this?

Jim Gavioli -

I have always believed that a properly placed screw can be a beautiful thing. A few decorative, but functional, screws placed in the back of the iMac case to attach the screen would be awesome, but this method is anything but beautiful and borders on insane.

Leland Goertz -

Step 19

While holding the display up with one hand, use the other to unplug the display power cable.
Lift the display up enough to have easy access to the connections, but not so much that you stretch the cables and stress their connections (about 8").

Mark all cable connectors with a spot of white correction fluid before removal. This will remove the risk, when reinserting them later, of getting them the wrong way round. Yes - I know they will only plug in one way round, but it does make life easier if you are not in perfect lighting!

Alastair Lack - 04/02/17

At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

Luke Gibson - 29/03/18

Quote - "Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility" You cannot be serious can you? So because someone attempted to repair their own Apple device that they OWN, you are saying that they may/will be locked out of using any Apple repair service again? Ridiculous claim sorry.

Peter Newman - 10/11/22

The display cable, the wider one, has a lock on it , usually a plastic tape lift tab to release it, once thats flipped it should come out fairly easily, if your experiencing resistance and the cable isn’t coming out then check for this lock/latch, the power cable just pulls out, just don’t rush it everything should go fine, fairly easy to do with the end result a working iMac

Ed tabickman - 30/03/18

Is it possible to replace the power cable if its damaged? I can’t seem to find anything about this.

Joseph Orr - 26/02/19

After finishing my hard drive replacement I reconnected these connectors to test my display before using new adhesive. Everything was working beautifully. But then when I applied the new adhesive and went to seal the display on for good - the display power cable somehow became disconnected! I had to reopen the Mac for a second time which was far more difficult with new adhesive. When reinstalling double and triple check that the cables are securely inserted before the final seal. Sounds obvious but it’s quite the annoyance if something goes wrong at this point.

azaadkb - 21/01/20

Very difficult to work with these connectors.

Power cable very difficult to unplug - data cable veeeeery difficult to plug in.

I noticed that working with the iMac positioned vertically (and with a proper support for inclination) makes this step slightly easier…

Luca Mucci - 24/02/20

Interesting comments.. personally, I didn’t find the cables particularly difficult to detach and reattach. You do have to be patient and gentle. Personally, I found that a rolled up beach towel gently wedged between the unit and back of the display helped keep the glass up. Also, a small flashlight can be helpful to see the cables and connectors if you’re lighting isn’t perfect.

John Fisk - 14/08/20

I’d agree to John - not overly difficult. My workaround was to prep the screen for re-installation and then place it in front of the standing machine. The cables are long and flexible enough to be put in place even in this state. You can easily attach the cables and continue with fixing the screen to the housing.

stefan - 16/11/20

I would not recommend doing this step as pictured. The cable you are removing has little tabs on the wide side that can be depressed inwards towards the center of the connector, releasing the cable. If you just grab the cable as pictured and yank it out, without depressing the side tabs, you are likely to damage something. Don’t pull on the wires, use your fingernails at the connector to squeeze the very small little tabs inward to release the cable from the connector.

maccentric - 02/02/21

The removal of the LCD power cable does require the left and right sides to be squeezed inwards towards each other first before removing, why this isn’t mentioned in the take apart can lead to damaging the iMac.

robert -

I agree with maccentric. DO NOT just pull the power cable. Use your fingernail or spudger and gently press the tiny notch inward and towards you gently and one side will disengage. Do the same for the other side and it will slide right out. The notches just have enough edge to catch your nail or spudger. Using your nail is better as you can better feel when you have caught the edge and can feel the cable move.

Andrew Phillips -

I lifted the display a few inches up and propped it open in the middle using my iPhone in portrait mode with its torch on. Did the job nicely:

James Clive -

Step 20

Flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.
Disconnect the display data cable.
This is a delicate connection that can easily be broken. Be sure to pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket, toward the top of the iMac.

I replaced HDD to SSD and assembled parts again. When I boot up the iMac, I found black lines on display (looks partly not broken).

I searched Internet, and some says graphic card problem, but I didn't touch anything but cable to lift up.

Could the damaged display data cable cause this situation? I hope I could fix this by just replacing the cables..

chansung park - 07/10/16

Sorry, Black lines is a damaged display assembly ;-{ In the process of removing it you either pushed the tool into deep or you torqued the glass severing the tiny wire traces.

Dan - 01/12/17

Same trouble here, is it cable trouble or connector trouble?

redfoxydarrest - 12/11/16

Sorry damaged display

Dan - 01/12/17

I think whenever words like "...is a delicate connection that can be broken. Be sure to pull the [cable in a certain direction] ANYTIME.... It is worth either a closeup or 2, maybe one with annotations or insertion directions and maybe a motion direction arrow with the something like and 'X' char or a circle division slash over the wrong one.

john - 26/06/17

I agree! +1

Jim Reitz - 29/06/17

Yes, John is absolutely correct on this one. I damaged the display cable trying to get it back in. A close up would have helped and now my computer might have actually been fixed.

Marsha Giardina - 07/03/19

[|There are 2 cables to disconnect on my Mac (?). Also, I don’t see a metal retaining bracket. I can take a picture, but cannot attach. I got the glass loose with no problem, but am worried about damaging the cables]

Jim Kelly - 28/02/18

Hi Jim! You can go to our Answers Forum to post some better images of your situation!

Sam Goldheart - 06/03/18

At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

Luke Gibson - 29/03/18

Can anybody upload an image of how the display can get damaged from removing it? I find it hard to believe (though I’m reading the horror stories here) that a whole display can get damaged. Especially when many of us were following to a T and being VERY CAREFUL.

Thanks.

Bryan - 14/10/18

First: During reassembly, I highly recommend you connect these cables and do a test boot BEFORE you remove the protective tape on the adhesive strips. That way you can fix any issues(like a damaged cable) if something is not right and you have not re-glued the screen back down which will cause a problem. If you have a second person and everything is working after test boot, you can just leave the cables connected, lift the bottom of the screen and have 2nd person pull the protective tape on the adhesive strips and you can set the screen in place. Second I damaged the video data cable during reassembly on my late 2015 iMac- I did not get the connector straight and I damaged the wires on the cable. I recommend you have someone else hold the screen while you attach the cables - they are fragile. Luckily, the data cable was easily replaced for only about $20. If you must do this by yourself, just be careful I highly recommend have 2 people at this step during reassembly.

Chip T - 10/07/19

At least on my “late 2013” model, the smaller display cable connector has tiny, tiny clips on the outside edges. These must be squeezed to unlatch it. Don't pull on the cable itself or the wires can be pulled out. Even with my small fingers, it was hard to grip the clips. When reconnecting, the connector will lightly snap into place.

Paul Floro - 03/02/20

I managed this step without any problems, but I had my wife hold the screen up while I disconnected/connected the cables. I STRONGLY encourage another pair of hands here so you can focus your full attention on being ultra careful with the cables.

BARRY RODRIGUEZ - 22/02/20

On the 2015 there are 2 cables.

1. Once the display is loose use the Mac foam block sold from Ifixit to keep the display from rocking to hold open the glass

2. Blow out dust with canned air

3. Get a flash light and small flat edged screw driver

4. Use the screw driver to slow pry loose the connector from the socket by gently inserting it in the gap on the left and then on the right slowly easing the connector from the socket towards the top of the glass

5. The more center connector has a pull tape and a wire loop. Lift pull tape and the wire loop will raise up.

6. Pull the wire loop towards the top of the glass to slide out the connector from its socket

Anthony Crocker - 29/02/20

Good instructions except for the screwdriver - try and use a plastic spudger instead ! Also, getting a headworn LED light makes life a bit easier.

Philip Sedlmair -

Have a late 2013 model and went to do the SSD upgrade. When going to remove the display we cracked the bottom left corner of the glass (just the glass frame part - not part of the screen that displays anything). We were also having difficulty putting re-attaching the display flex cable. Whenever we finally went to test it before re-sealing the screen back on with new adhesive it would sound like it is turning on as it makes boot-up noises and the fans start running, but the screen would just remain black. Just wondering if the crack in the bottom left-hand side of the glass/display would have damaged a part of the display assembly or if it would be more likely that we just damaged the display flex cable (which can be replaced for $26)?

Zach Tweel - 19/04/20

Did you get to the bottom.of this?

paul.lynch1 - 05/03/21

does anybody know how the Display Cabel pin assignment is? I want to try if I can attach the Panel to another grafic card

Marco Rizzo-Scheible - 11/05/20

I’ve completed the upgrade to SSD, but while restarting my screen remains black. As if no connected.

I assume I broke the sensitive connector.

—> how to order a spare?

Durain - 25/10/20

Did you get to the bottom of this?.

paul.lynch1 - 05/03/21

is the display assembly of 2015’s the same as 2017’s?

zenu -

No! Apple loves to mess us up!

Dan -

The panels are different since technology progresses at a rapid pace and Apple does like to be on bleeding edge of things. When they do a manufacturing run of screens, there will be a few years that will have the same screen. I believe 2017 is when they introduced the higher resolution panels. Everything from 2012 late to 2015 should be the same though.

Philip Sedlmair -

That display cable connector is common to many Macs of the 2012 era. I’ve destroyed 2 in 38 years of servicing all types of computer equipment.

As stated, there is a latch on this connector. If you put any incorrect force on the cable or connector during disassembly or reassembly, you will break the cable and possibly the connector. The cables can be purchased online and the video connector on the display is exactly the same.

I repeat, if you pull out on the video cable after it has been unlatched instead of parallel to the logic board, YOU WILL BREAK IT.

James Hendrickson -

Step 21

Lift the display up to a near-vertical position.
At this point there is still a strip of adhesive along the bottom of the display, that will hold the display to the frame like a hinge. You can loosen this adhesive by working the display up and down a few times.
Remove as much of the adhesive as possible by grabbing it at the outer edges, and then pulling or rolling it towards the middle.

Thank you Stef, that's what i will do next time, i cracked the lower part of the screen went opening very slowly, that's probably why those "tabs are for !!

dforgues - 07/06/17

Thanks Stef, this has saved me! Simple yet very effective.

David Zemsky - 23/06/17

Yep, I cracked the lower corner of the display as well. I failed to work the adhesive enough to loosen it sufficiently. Be careful, I just had to buy my customer another screen!

Peter Haigh - 19/04/18

There seems to be missing a step or two. As I was removing the old display, there are two wires that need to get transferred to the new replacement display. There is not note about these two wires located at the top of the display. The 1.128-inch ribbon cable and then this other 4-inch long, two-wire cable that goes to a very small circuit board that is 1/4 by 3/8 of an inch and seems to be adhered to the panel.I have not been able to get this cable off the old display. There is a port for it on the replacement display.

Note: When ordering this screen, and plastic cards as noted tools, ifixit.com did not list the pizza cutter or the new replacement adhesive strips. So now I’m not sure how to get the new one on and secure.

Todd Derek - 29/05/18

Are you sure your trying to remove a late 2013 model A1419 display assembly?

robert -

The adhesive strip along the bottom is designed with a pull tab on each outer end. Rather than lever and pull the screen simply carefully pull the tab which removes that half of the lower adhesive strip and frees up the screen.

Andrew Stephens - 10/08/18

Niemals den unteren Klebestreifen mit einem scharfen Gegenstand wie Rasierklinge oder so versuchen zu trennen, davon geht die Beschichtung des Displays kaputt und man hat hässliche Streifen unten hinter dem Glas. Stattdessen lieber versuchen, das Display nach oben zu klappen und abzuziehen.

Bas ti - 19/03/20

translation from Bas Ti because this is very important:

Never try to separate the bottom adhesive strip with a sharp object such as a razor blade or something, the coating on the display will break and you will have ugly strips at the bottom behind the glass. Instead, try to flip up and pull off the display.

Kurt Grootjans - 14/06/20

If you are just replacing the hard drive, I have found that it is quite possible to do while leaving the screen connected, making the process much easier. The amount you need to tilt the screen to access the little pull tabs at the bottom to release the screen is also sufficient to access the drive. I remove the drive while the iMac is upright. I also heat up the bottom of the screen to soften the glue and to help with the possibility of the glass cracking while doing this step.

maccentric - 02/02/21

Very dangerous! You’ll stress the cables and the logic board connectors.

Dan - 02/02/21

I meant that you can leave the bottom strip of adhesive attached; you still need to disconnect the 2 cables.

maccentric -

As mentioned before you can pull out the lower adhesive strip. Dont cut it or move the display up and down. This is even more dangerous. On the lower side of mac where the display glass ends is a offset. When moving the display up and down you might crack it over that offset.

sebastian.wittl - 07/03/21

When removing the adhesive from the top of the screen, be sure to start at the iSight camera location (= in the middle). If you start at an upper egde of the glass (side doesn’t matter) towards the middle, you risk removing the black background foil from the screen, which will result in ugly stripes behind the glass.

christopher.winter -

Step 22

Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply (boxed in red).
If necessary, a plastic card can be used to cut any remaining sections of the bottom adhesive strip.

Would have been helpful to box the same red area when using the plastic card to separate the glue. Since the red blocked picture is inverted, if someone doesn't pay close attention it may not be obvious that the area of concern is at the right top of the graphic pictures in which the plastic card use is being demonstrated..

Wizbang FL - 06/05/16

you don't need to cut the bottom part as the bottom tape is stuck on each side and you can easily pull it out

Thomas Webb - 02/09/17

What is the twisted wire taped to the back of the display that can bee seen in the upper right of the first two pictures? I have an 27” iMac without a screen an my replacement does not have this wire. I think it is a temperature sensor but do not know where it connects to.

Eric - 31/10/17

[|I opened up my iMac and there’s no HDD or SSD in that spot. its just empty.]

John Warmann - 17/02/18

You probably had just an SSD installed and no HD, which is on the opposite side of the motherboard (and quite a bit more work to access).

maccentric - 07/11/20

Please update the picture to include the RED BOXED IN AREA that you refer to on all three pictures in this step. I have had a few zaps from these supplies and it is not pleasant.

Charlie Nancarrow - 22/03/18

J’ai réussi à intervenir dans l’iMac sans décoller l’ensemble de l’écran. Je l’ai ouvert en laissant la dernière partie collée (vers le logo Apple) et qui sert comme une charnière. Bien calé et assuré l’écran n’a pas bougé et j’ai pu changer mon disque dur facilement. Le grand avantage et d’avoir l’écran toute suite juste quand on le recolle par la suite.

David Mariaux - 13/04/19

Well, I of course touched a soldering point in the red area as my hand slipped. I heard and felt a tiny “click” and after replacing the HDD with SSD etc I can not power the iMac up anymore. Not a sign of life :-( I suppose I broke the power supply. Can someone confirm? Or could something else have broken too?

David Rosner - 06/10/19

I took my time and pulled both tabs slowly gently. Easily removed and glass came right off.

Keith Thomas -

Step 23

Be very careful handling the display—it's big, heavy, and made of glass. The display has fragile edges. Avoid lifting the display by the corners.
Lift the display up from the frame and remove it from the iMac. Lay the display face down on a flat, soft surface.
It may be necessary to slowly lift from one side, to peel against the remaining adhesive.
After the adhesive is cut, it cannot be used to re-seal the display in place. Follow this guide when your repair is complete to replace the adhesive strips that secure the display to the rear enclosure.

You really should be using film handling or surgical type gloves to handle the screen to minimise finger grease on any of it. Even if it’s possible to clean most of it off, it can be corrosive over time.

Art Hackett - 26/10/19

Use a large suction cup and latex gloves for this:

https://www.amazon.com/FCHO-Suction-Alum...

Philip Sedlmair -

I think iFixIt should have mentioned this step might be safer using a suction cup as mentioned by Philip.⏎
I thought following the guide, holding the screen on each side would be fine, but the glass cracked almost immediately.

I did not grab it by the corners, just the middle of the glass.

This glass is horrendously fragile. I don't think I can afford to repair the screen :(

Rod Landaeta -

Lowering the screen down at the end here does not need a suction cup. It sounds like you left something in the channel so you fractured the screen from the object (a loose screw?). I've done a ton of these systems and have not needed a suction cup at this step. I do agree a suction cup can be helpful in the screen removal process. just to give you a better purchase, not pulling! As you can damage the screen if you pull too hard.

Dan -

Step 24

If you are replacing the display panel, you may need to transfer additional components from the old panel to the new one. Compare the back of the old display with the replacement display. Note all cables, sensors, and foam cushioning that are missing from the new display.
If there is a wire or cable underneath adhesive tape, always pull the tape off first.
If the cable is glued to the chassis, use a heated iOpener or a hair dryer to soften the adhesive first. You can then slide an opening pick underneath the cable to loosen it. Never pull directly on the delicate connectors.
Slide an opening pick underneath the foam cushion pieces to separate them from the display, and gently pull them off. You may need some double sided tape to re-attach them to the new display.

Be extremely careful removing the LCD Temp Sensor from the rear of the screen. If you pull the wire, you run the risk of severing the metal wire from the connector but not notice it because the surrounding plastic insulation may still be intact. Use a razor blade so “shave off” the sensor under the adhesive. I just had the screen replaced by a local shop and, upon boot, the fan was running full-speed and the Mac’s speed was miserable; Excel took 30 bounces in the Dock to launch rather than the expected 4-5. Novabench showed the Mac running at 4% of its expected speed (overall). The tech examined the sensor carefully, found the broken connection, soldered it back into place, and all was fine. Note that the (partially disconnected) sensor actually showed up when I ran Macs Fan Control in an attempt to work-around this. No problem controlling the fan speed then but the iMac’s running speed was awful until the disconnected sensor wire was fixed.

barryjaylevine - 16/08/18

Hi barryjaylevine,

I’ve had my LCD replaced on my iMac 27 / 2013 and there is no LCD Temp Sensor cable on the replacement screen.

I’m experiencing the same performance issues.

I’ve ordered a new sensor, do you have any pointers as to how to install it?

Thanks,

Simon

simon kennedy - 11/10/18

hey Simon, I used 2-sided tape….this is assuming the new sensor doesn’t already come with an adhesive surface already applied.

a roll of kapton tape for your own peace of mind will make sure nothing detaches from thermally-induced adhesive crystallization

make sure you position it in such a way that you can easily plug the lead back into the mobo….not a lot of length to that wire

placebomessiah - 11/10/18

Howdy folks,

Thanks for all the tips, LCD sensor fitted and iMac back in action.

Never again!

Simon

simon kennedy - 15/10/18

Hello all. So I’m trying to pinpoint my backlight issue on my 2015 retina 5k - I noticed I’m missing my thermal sensor on the LCD. Would this help with the backlight? I’m sure it will keep my fans from going crazy. Any help would be appreciated! Note: I have LEDs except the 4th one. Thanks!

Jordan Shababy - 05/01/19

Be careful when removing the adhesive residue!

I didn’t know it, but I ended up leaving slight scratch marks that can be seen from the front side.

Eric - 15/01/20

Step 25

Use a T10 driver to remove the two 10 mm screws securing the left speaker.

Step 26

Shift the loosened left speaker to the left—enough to uncover the hard drive bracket screws.

Step 27

Pull straight up on the SATA combo cable to disconnect it from the drive.

Where can I purchase this cable if my iMac only came with the m.2 SSD?

Julien Dal Col - 15/02/21

Step 28

Use a T8 driver to remove the two 7.3 mm screws securing the left hard drive bracket to the rear case.

they are T9 for 2012.

sean_gizzle - 14/02/21

Step 29

Grab the hard drive and left hard drive bracket together.
Tilt the left side away from the rear case, and slide the assembly to the left.
Remove the hard drive and left hard drive bracket from the iMac.

Step 30

Remove the left hard drive bracket.

Step 31

Remove the four 8.1 mm T8 screw posts from the hard drive, and transfer them to the replacement drive enclosure.

In my case these were T9 screw posts. Late 2012 iMac. They had traces of Loctite on them.

rsnadd - 31/05/18

Step 32

Follow the remaining steps if you are replacing your hard drive with an SSD kit.
If your SSD enclosure looks like the first image, follow this guide instead.
Line up the SSD connectors with the metal enclosure's sockets.
Press the drive against the enclosure sockets until the SSD is firmly seated.
The SSD connects with the enclosure in only one direction. If the connectors don't line up, rotate the SSD and try again.

what if I’m installing a hard drive?

Troy Garcia -

Didn’t bother with the SSD caddy. Some 3M sticky pads did the trick!

James Clive -

Been using them for years...works great.

Michael Maxson -

Two thoughts on SSD replacement/upgrade:

1) It would help if some references were made to help us determine what we need in terms form factors. I’ve never used an SSD and see a 2.5” one that would work, but I don’t know if 2.5” SSDs are different (in form factor) from 2.5” HDs. A lot of us are still learning about SSDs and isn’t that what this site is about? (Learning new things about hardware and using hardware?)

2) I’m not clear if I definitely need a new temperature sensor if I put in an SSD or if

Hal Vaughan -

Can I buy the kit without the SSD. I'm thinking of replacing my 3TB hard drive with a 4TB SSD.

Also, would you happen to know what the maximum hard drive dimension that can fit inside of this iMac? I may try a 14TB hard drive instead.

Larry - 14/04/22

A 14Tb HDD does not represent any problem. But I will care about rising temperature. Must attach a heat sensor. If rise to high, it will suddenly shutdown to protect it.

Neos Marketing -

Step 33

Use a Phillips screwdriver to install the four silver screws (two on each side) along the edges of the SSD to secure it to the enclosure.

Step 34

Plug the included sensor-enabled combo cable into the enclosure's port.
The cable is keyed to connect in only one orientation. If you can't connect the cable, rotate it 180° and try again.

Is the thermal sensor needed? I fitted a replacement SSD and it’s all back together and the iMac’s fans are fine. They don’t go into full max speed mode.

James Clive -

If you have a problem with the fans, you can always use Macs Fan Control (free) to set the speed. The sensor is not needed.

maccentric -

Hi, thanks for good information. Do we need intermediate SSD cables (red, black and yellow)? iMac has SATA original cable.

O S -

Step 35

Peel the white liner off the back of the small temperature sensor board in order to expose the adhesive.
Adhere the temperature sensor board to an exposed, metal surface of the SSD, close to the SATA connector.
Fold the excess temperature sensor wires so that they are out of the way while you install the enclosure.

Great pics ! Is that “temp sensor board” is already on my HDD IMAC ?? Or must I buy one ?

kenclark200 - 23/04/21

Don’t bother with the thermal sensor. I didn’t fit one and the iMac is working fine and no fans are kicking in.

James Clive -

Instructions say to attach sensor to the SSD, but all pictures show it being attached to the SSD carrier. This may not represent accurate SSD temp as much of the carrier dissipates the heat absorbed from the SSD

chris byrne -

Confirmed, no need for the extra temp sensor on Mid-2015 iMac. (EMC 2806, Mid-2015 27" iMac). Just changed the old 1TB HDD to SSD, no extra fan RPM after power on.

Laszlo Nyirfa -

The adhesive on the sensor is very weak. My sensor fell off after a couple of days. Is there a safe glue to use to adhere it to the SSD? Super glue?

estyle18 -

FWIW I bought a 4TB Western Digital Blue SSD. The entire case of the SSD is plastic- there is no metal. Hoping the temp sensor adheres to it okay.

Kupe -

Step 36

Use a T8 driver to install the mounting pins from the old hard drive onto the sides of the enclosure.

Step 37

Attach any mounting brackets removed from the old hard drive onto the enclosure.

i don't have a combo cable.i also didn't have asata drive. just a blade ssd. i don't see wwhere i could add a cable

Larry Paterson -

Step 38

Connect the iMac's combo cable to the new temperature-enabled combo cable.

Step 39

The images used in this step come from a 2017 iMac. Your cables may look slightly different, but the procedure remains the same.
Slide the SSD enclosure into the space previously occupied by the hard drive.
Route the cables so that they will not interfere with any other components.
Try to keep the cables free from any sharp bends, and route them such that they are not pinched.

The SATA cable on my Late 2012 was not long enough to comfortably attach to the end of the temperature sensor array after it was plugged into the new SSD. I had to fold the array and slide it under the SSD and housing. There was much resistance to the folding so I took it slowly to let the wires adjust gradually to the fold so they would not break.

Bob Enders -

Unfortunately, the adapter that comes with it isn't long enough to avoid pushing against the screen in the front. One week after upgrading to SSD my screen fell off shattering and breaking the power connector on the systems board. A new screen is ordered but I'm hoping the power connector isn't damaged beyond repair. I'm going to try to adhere the HD adapter to the back inside of the case with 3m adhesive to avoid pressure against the screen.

Erik Johnson -

As a newbie, the only other upgrade I have done is to replace my iPhone 7 battery. I had trouble on reassembly.

This is a great upgrade guide, but it would be important to me to see the reassembly instructions including the cautions.

For example, I had issues with reattaching the plugs in the phone. I could see having an issue with them here, as well as repositioning the display back into the cabinet.

I do PCB board repair work and repair pinball machines. But I won’t try this.

Larry Hamm -

how do i glue on the new screen? which glue is used?

Marc Seeh -

Try 3m double sided tape from Amazon, it available in 3mm width which is ideal for iMac screen. It has a very thin foam and is much better quality than the cheap Chinese kits available on Amazon. You will have to trim it to size with a sharp craft blade as you fit. Don’t risk your screen falling off from using cheap tape in the so called fitting kits!

Tony Street -

In my Late 2012 27" iMac I Scotch-taped the SATA connector to the case to stop it from pushing against the screen after reassembly.

Richard Brockbank -

Only 39 steps!

Is it possible to clone the internal disk and have the imac boot off the external SSD?

D Leinweber -

Yes

https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-2....

D Leinweber -

The extension cable is too long. I folded it over carefully & stuck it down to the case using a double sided sticky pad. Photo here

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0qG...

Bill4321 -

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse and use our Adhesive Strips Guide to reattach the display glass.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.

Author

Andrew Optimus Goldheart

Member since: 17/10/09

502341 Reputation

54 comments

My experience in upgrading this unit to a Seagate 4TB hybrid ST4000DX001 went fine except for the fans running at a constant higher RPM. Using Macs Fan Control is solving my issue for now. As a tip, you do not need to remove the left speaker, you can loosen the two screws and angle it leaning to the left.

MFR2VCB -

What setting do you change in Macs Fan Control? Im looking at getting a SSD fitted to my Late 2013 iMac by a certified repair centre who have said they will do it for me if I provide the SSD but they did mention that the fans would most likely speed up as there won't be a temp sensor in the SSD. Thanks.

Lewis - 04/05/14

I didn't have a fan problem, since the adapter comes with a temperature sensor, my problem was the adapter wasn't long enough.

Erik Johnson -

Lewis: simply running the Macs Fan Control app will do it. Otherwise the fans run at full speed because they have no temperature measurement.

Max Fenton - 19/09/14

I'm wondering what drive apple uses for the 1TB SSD version? Is it an OEM type PCIE Sandisk as well or a larger 2.5" drive?

I'm very tempted to upgrade my Fusion drive.

Brent Petersen - 06/12/14

Apple uses a custom Samsung drive.

Review this great guide: The Ultimate Guide to Apple’s Proprietary SSDs

Dan - 17/01/19

Fan Control / temp sensor issue aside, are there any limitations/considerations with replacing the 3.5" 1TB HDD with a 2.5" SSD in an appropriate bracket?

Is anyone having luck with any particular SSD models?

Tim - 07/01/15

To solve the fan issue I believe you need to add a temperature sensor like this: http://eshop.macsales.com/item/OWC/DIYIM... OWC told me if you don't, your fans will go crazy because the new drive probably does not this sensor like the original mac. Just heard it today and then read this. Hope this helps!

weddings - 26/01/15

Thank you this fixed the fan issue for me!!

Felix Waller - 30/12/16

Hi, is a temperature sensor (like the one linked above) necessary if I am replacing the hard drive with an SSD? Also, what is recommended for the SSD "cradle" since this model iMac comes with a 3.5" disk and SSDs are 2.5"?

wesleyhargrove - 25/03/15

If I replace a Fusion Drive with an ordinary drive, will there be issues? Or is the fusion SSD a separate part and will be integrated when the new drive is formatted?

Alan Browne - 29/03/15

Fusion SSD is seperate.

Evert van Harten - 17/05/15

I haven't had any fan noise issues at all after installing an Samsung 840 ssd instead of the seagate hdd.

peter - 01/04/15

Hi - I replaced the Hard Drive using this guide. But it looks like my imac no longer boots up through the fusion drive. How can I confirm this or fix it to boot back through the fusion drive?

donnorth - 05/03/16

You will have to fuse them back together through Terminal.

asnperswazin - 09/03/16

How do I fuse them back together through terminal?

donnorth - 04/06/16

This works well. https://support.apple.com/en-ca/HT207584

bruce - 09/01/18

I have put 1st a 500gb and after a 1tb ssd both Samsung evo 850. I didn't needed to use the OWC in line thermal sensor, I even have bought it but first upgrade it hadn't arrived yet and I wanted to know if I would really need it since I have read somewhere that the latest versions do not need it anymore. my imac is a late 2015 and I am not sure if really is the fact of it be a newer version or if the Samsung evo 850 have some thermal sensor inside. by pass, the ifixit adhesive and the included apener are both great. it was very easy to replace the hard drive, however replace the processor as a little bit hard but I had success in doing it

Alber Einsten - 10/03/16

Is it possible to change the power button on the late 2012 iMac 27"? The cable got cut from the speaker but I was able to MacGuyver it with another power button. It looks like you'd have to take the metal bezel off which would have to be cut... Anyone have any ideas or suggestions?

Ryan Arakaki - 26/07/16

Can I have one SSD for system and another HDD for media in IMac Late 2013 (thin body) , like IMac 2011(fattest body)??

marceloQuiroga - 07/10/16

Good guide. Would be even better if you added tips regarding replacing the adhesives on the display once the repair is complete. Thanks!

Charles - 02/12/16

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse and use our Adhesive Strips Guide to reattach the display glass.

Sam Goldheart - 05/12/16

That guide exists and is the first option in the EMC 2546 guides list: iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546 Adhesive Strips Replacement

Christophe Patys - 23/01/17

I did the installation of a new hard drive following the ifixit guide, afterwards I had the fan issue, I did not have the fans spinning at full speed like some people have been describing but the CPU and other components would just get hot very fast, this seemed very strange, installing Mac fan control didn't help much, as the CPU and stuff would heat up, and if I did not want to damage my computer I had to crank up the fans. I was desperate for a solution, so I purchased the kit from OWC (after reading "weddings" comment) being a bit sceptical, because I wasn't sure if installing a sensor would stop the CPU from heating up. But after the Installation everything is back to normal. The CPU stays at around 40 degrees, and the fan stays quite. I don't understand how this works, but I definitely recommend installing this sensor if you have similar issues after upgrading your hard drive, even if it means opening your iMac again ;). For the record: I have an iMac 27-inch Late 2012.

Felix Waller - 30/12/16

The guide made it extremely easy to perform an SSD swap. The wheel was the perfect tool, and the strips were perfect for the job.

Christophe Patys - 23/01/17

I made the change of the hard disk and when closing the imac one part of the screen was left in black that could be this?

john sayegh - 02/03/17

I got this Screen problem when replaced the HDD with OWC SSD in my iMac late 2012 model.

Can anyone help me to solve this problem ? PLEASE ! I REALLY WORRY ABOUT THIS.

Please take out the photo down here.

goo.gl/vFUiGI

My Email is mrnguyenken@gmail.com

Thank you so much !

Nguyen Ken - 02/03/17

I have the same problem as you, change the hard drive and now I have a part of the screen in black

john sayegh - 03/03/17

Check and make sure that the Display Data cable is properly seated when attaching it in Step 19.

Philip Sedlmair - 21/02/18

Completed this guide no problem at all. Previously replaced the disk on a smaller iMac without incident.

Images are excellent, detailed and specific.

No issues with CPU fan as mentioned in some other comments. iMac 27inch Late 2012 model.

Bradley Anderson - 08/02/18

Thank you for this guide: very clear and detailed. The dedicated adhesive-cutting tool was well worth the money, as it sped up the cutting and reduced my stress level! I did need to repeat steps 9-16 a few times before the screen felt loose enough to lift away from the body. TAKE YOUR TIME - the screen WILL lift off without much force when it’s ready.

While the case is open, allow a few minutes more to remove the left speaker and carefully remove any dust and fluff that has been sucked into the case by the cooling fan!

I opted for a 2 TB FireCuda drive. Booting up and loading of apps is noticeably faster, for only a few pounds more than a 2 TB traditional HD: a cost-effective solution for an older Mac.

Peter Barber - 14/06/18

I think they should change “Difficulty” levels. With this guide: “Easy”; Without this guide: “Difficult”. Thanks again iFixit for another successful repair.

lottpaul - 22/06/18

Hi Guys, im planning to change my hard drive to SSD according to this instructions, just a simpel question before i get started; How do you do with the system and everything that is installed on the old drive, are you just cloning the disk before change or what is the procedure? (and if so, what tool do i use for that?)

Best regards, have fun :)

Tobbe / Sweden

torbjorn.mobil - 27/08/18

Yep, you got it! Grab an external hard drive enclosure and clone your old disk to the new disk before you install it. Instructions are here. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen - 28/08/18

Worked well but in deed it is not that easy. All important steps are explained and with the kit I’ve got everything I needed. Quotation from one Apple Reseller here was 730€ für 1TB SSD, so I was able to save quite some money. Thanks! Best regards from Bavaria

Hopfa Dinger - 19/10/18

Hi all. I have a 27” iMac (2013) but it was configured with the BTO 500gb Flash/SSD blade on purchase, so didn’t come with a HDD fitted. I want to add one (either a high volume spinny disk or another SSD, I can’t decide yet!), but I’m wondering what parts I’d need. I couldn’t imagine that Apple would include the driving mounting parts or SATA and power cables for a machine that was ordered without an HDD. Has anyone cracked one of these SSD only iMacs open to see what’s what?

markbart - 11/12/18

Did this for a customer at my shop. Used all iFixit tools and parts. He called back 3 weeks later because the screen fell out. What causes this? Can the iFixit adhesive strips be trusted? We’re out $600 because we have to replace this screen now, and we can’t even be sure that it will not happen again. What can we do?

Alec - 09/01/19

@fletchertime Sorry to hear that :( In my experience, the replacement adhesive is extremely sticky, so I’m not sure how this could have happened. The only possibilities I can think of are (1) the old adhesive was not cleaned off well enough, resulting in a poor bond for the new adhesive, (2) the customer broke it on their own somehow, and is trying to pin it on you, or (3) the adhesive was defective in some way—certainly possible, but we haven’t heard of any other instances of this. If you ordered from iFixit, at least reach out to customer support and see what they can do to help. Better luck on the next one I hope :(

Jeff Suovanen - 14/01/19

What you used to clean the adhesive could have left a film which interfered with the adhesion.

Rubbing, ethanol isopropyl alcohol can have junk in them that could have messed you up. You really want to use reagent grade (85% or better). To test your solvent is to get a small glass bowl to place some of the solvent and carefully warm it no flames! to speed up the evaporation do you have any staining at the bottom.

Dan - 15/01/19

I was looking at the original adhesives from Apple, they're a thicker foam material, I think it helps to hold the screen against the body, since the body is a little recessed where the adhesives is attached.

Erik Johnson -

This guide worked great, thanks a lot! Installed a Crucial MX500 without problems.

Anton Sundqvist - 06/02/19

And no, I didn’t need a thermal sensor or software to control the fans, they are working as they should anyway.

Anton Sundqvist - 06/02/19

and then, how i close it? where i can buy the adhesive? how i can apply it?

MarcoVR - 09/04/19

Follow this guide to replace your adhesive.

You can buy the strips here.

Arthur Shi - 10/04/19

Upgraded my late 2012 27” iMac (13,2) with a Samsung Evo 860 SSD, but was not sure about buying the OWC sensor, so before re-sealing the screen, I booted up and it appears the SSD temperature is monitored without the need for the OWC external sensor. According to the free “macs fan control” app the Temperature of SSD is about 21 Celsius and fan is on low speed. Screen shot is available in my corresponding post in the user forum.

Julian - 13/10/19

Thanks so much for this guide! This was my first Apple product repair and thankfully it went relatively smoothly. My iMac is operational again and the SSD has added a significant speed boost!

Being that this was my first time it would have been great if this guide also included a section on how to format and load a copy of the Mac OS onto the drive before Installing. I was able to figure this out relatively quickly with some internet searches but I required another Mac so I could download and install the OS onto my new drive with the SATA to USB adapter. There is probably another way or an easier way - but I was going in green! Would be a helpful preface to this guide. Thanks again.

azaadkb - 21/01/20

Woo hoo! I managed to replace the dying hard drive of my 27” late 2012 iMac with an SSD and, despite being pretty nerve wracking the whole time, it went smoothly! Great guide.

BARRY RODRIGUEZ - 22/02/20

I have one of these as my work computer. I absolutely hate how slow the mechanical drive on these is. It’s hampering my workflow… I can’t wait to see the look on the IT guys’ faces when they see how this crap is disassembled to put an SSD in… then the look on my face when they kindly tell me to sod off.

migue31096 - 06/03/20

Just finished this hard drive replacement today. Was challenging, but the supplied ifixit kit and the instructions made is pretty step-by-step straightforward! New SDD drive is super spiffy fast and breathed new life into this fine computer. IMHO, this model iMac is great because of the target display mode. Even though this computer is now 8 years old, it’s got a lot of pep and will be able to use it for years to come.

tthrivi - 19/04/20

Great guide, easy to follow even for a non-techie like me. My iMac looks as good as new and performs even better.

The one thing I’d add is that on startup in recovery mode, the new disk does not show up as a volume to restore to. In this case I was able to open a terminal window from the recovery screen and format the disk using DiskUtil eraseDisk. After that all was good.

Dan Augood - 04/06/20

I want to replace the 2014 fusion drive and the ssd storage with a samsung 1tb ssd and a new eco m.2. I need adhesive for the screen, the hardware (ssd + m.2 and the tools), is there a kit I can buy?

edouardverbeke - 27/12/20

Great guide, I installed a 2TB Crucial MX500 SSD on my 27” late 2012 and everything is working perfectly. The screen removal is a bit scary but I took my time with the imac opening tool and it went great. You’ll need an extra pair of hands to open the screen and remove the two connectors easily. And take a good look at the two connectors before disconnecting to remember how to put them back.

Don’t rush, and you’ll be fine!

And thanks for the great guide!

Ari - 08/06/21

I called an Apple Authorized Service center when I decided to replace the Fusion drive with an SSD. The representative swore the heat sensor was not necessary and would fix anything that went wrong if required.

David Taylor -

The repair went fine for me, except that the screen cracked at the camera. One potential cause: I ran the iMac Opening Tool too close to the camera. Because there's no adhesive at the camera, I probably lifted the glass too much. Alternatively, the glass had already been removed a couple years before for an Apple repair, so maybe it had just been stressed too much.

rbowdidge -