Xbox 360 Red Ring of Death Fix Kit

Written By: Andrew Bookholt

Comments: 119

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

45 minutes - 1 hour

Introduction

Use this guide to install iFixit's Red Ring of Death Fix Kit.

Reflowing the motherboard after completing Step 48 of this guide (before you install the RROD fix kit) both provides a higher chance of success in fixing red ring failures and also safeguards against future failures.

Tools

Arctic Silver ArctiClean

Parts

Xbox 360 Red Ring of Death Fix Kit

Step 1

Grasp the hard drive assembly and press the release button while lifting its front edge.
Remove the hard drive assembly from the top vent.

WARNING: Just replacing the drive will not make it work correctly. Microsoft has married the drives to the motherboard. Hence, in order to get full operation out of the drive you'll have to perform more steps not listed here. Search in the FAQ on this specific topic for more details. Otherwise, before buying a new drive, try cleaning the inside of the old one and/or replace the belt involved in opening and closing the drive door.

- Good Luck

Eric - 06/07/14

Thanks..helped!

joseph zulu - 05/10/17

bress the button and lift with the same hand! i thought mine was stuck because of this pic!!!

Maths with Luigi -

Step 2

Stand the console vertically with the bottom edge facing up.
Throughout the following opening procedure, the finger of an Xbox 360 opening tool can be used in place of a spudger.
Insert the flat end of a spudger or the edge of an Xbox 360 opening tool into the small gap at the front edge of the bottom vent.
Pry the front edge of the bottom vent away from the faceplate.

You can avoid this step by pulling the front cover off. Just make sure you don't break the springs for the USB bay area.

Repair Doctor -

Hello, thank you ifix for this guide, I followed this guide, I got stuck at some point but I resolved it. Also I want to share this resource: Step by Step guide to fix Xbox 360 errors it helped me go through all the things associated with Xbox 360 and the troubleshooting of errors. Hope this can also help you all.

Christopher Sage -

Step 3

In the next few steps, you will use the tip of a spudger or the finger of an Xbox 360 opening tool to release the clips along the left and right sides of the bottom vent. Their locations are highlighted in red.
You will insert the tool into the holes molded into the white plastic side case pieces.

Step 4

To release the clips, work from the front edge of the bottom vent.
While slightly lifting the front edge of the bottom vent, use the tip of a spudger to push the clips closest to the front of the bottom vent towards the inside of the console.

Step 5

Repeat the same process to release the two center clips on the bottom vent.

Step 6

Use the tip of your spudger to release the clips on the bottom vent nearest the back of the Xbox.

Step 7

Remove the bottom vent from the 360.

Step 8

Insert the flat edge of a spudger between the faceplate and the outer casing near the power button.
Run your spudger along the edge of the faceplate to release the clips securing it to the front of the console.
You may also accomplish this task by using the edge of the Xbox 360 opening tool, but it may scratch the plastic case.
Alternatively, you can use your hands to carefully pull the faceplate away from the Xbox.

The faceplate just pulls off, using a tool is completely unneccessary. https://beta.support.xbox.com/help/xbox-...

Erik Tomlinson - 11/03/20

Step 9

Repeat the same motions as previously mentioned to release the left side of the faceplate.

Step 10

Remove the faceplate from the front face of the console.

Step 11

Stand the console vertically with the top edge facing up.
The top vent is secured to the console via clips. The first two clips are located underneath the top vent closest to the faceplate, as shown in the pictures.

Step 12

Insert the flat end of a spudger into the small gaps previously mentioned to release the clips.
You may also use the long finger of an Xbox 360 opening tool to accomplish this task.

I found it easier to open these clips using the pointy end of the spudger rather than the flat end. Just slide it in against the side of the case and the clip will pop off.

dave -

Step 13

In the next few steps, you will use the tip of a spudger or the finger of an Xbox 360 opening tool to release the clips along the left and right sides of the top vent. Their locations are highlighted in red.

Step 14

To release the clips, work from the middle of the top vent.
While slightly lifting the front edge of the top vent, use the tip of a spudger to push the clips closest to the center of the top vent towards the inside of the console.

Step 15

Use the tip of your spudger to release the clip on the top vent nearest the back of the Xbox's upper case.

Step 16

The last clip is hidden underneath the rubber foot nearest the back of the console.
Use the tip of your spudger to release the clip on the top vent nearest the back of the Xbox.
Remove the top vent from the 360.

Step 17

Stand the console vertically with the top edge facing down.
Carefully peel the warranty sticker off the console.

There is an alternate to breaking the seal. If you open the back first starting with the opposite side of the sticker you can get the rear to "Clam Open" retaining the seal.

Eric -

LOL “Romove the warenty seal”

Alexander Wiand - 12/10/18

Step 18

The upper and lower cases are attached via several latches, located in the front and back of the console. These latches must be disengaged to separate the upper case from the console.
Use the flat end of a spudger to release the following latches:
Above the front-facing USB ports.
Beneath the front-facing USB ports.
Above the Memory Unit slots.

Step 19

Insert the flat end of a spudger and pry upwards to release the last remaining latch located above the eject button.

Step 20

Slightly lift the front portion of the lower case to ensure that the latches in the front have been completely released.

Step 21

The upper and lower cases are held together by seven release latches located on the back of the console. Their locations are highlighted in red.

Step 22

Press the Xbox 360 opening tool down into the clips securing the lower case to the upper case near the I/O ports.
While pressing down on the tool, push the lower and upper cases apart to separate the retaining clips.

I didn't have an XBox tool, so I followed instructions in this video for this step (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qaxIB6cX...) to pry it open with your fingers and a screwdriver.

Nick Karnik - 19/07/14

The small (metal) women's hair clip is best for un-latching the tabs. The screw drivers just make the holes bigger.

Denny Ross - 01/04/16

You can also use the pointed end of a plastic spudger to push each clip free while you separate the case with your free hand.

Michael Carson - 26/08/19

Step 23

While pushing the upper and lower cases apart, use the tip of a spudger or the finger of an Xbox 360 opening tool to push the long clip highlighted in red toward the center of the 360.
The clip should release, leaving the clips near the power connector as the only thing holding the upper and lower cases together.

Step 24

Press the Xbox 360 opening tool down into the two remaining clips near the power connector.
Push the upper and lower cases apart to fully release the retaining clips.

Step 25

Orient the console so that the front portion is facing downwards.
Grasp the back portion of the lower case and lift it upwards to separate it from the console.
Be careful not to excessively bend the lower case near the power plug, as it can crack easily.

Step 26

Use the tip of a spudger to release the clip securing the eject button to the metal casing.
Insert the flat end of a spudger between the eject button and the optical drive.
Pry the eject button off its retaining posts and remove it from the 360.
This can also be accomplished using an Xbox 360 opening tool.

Step 27

Remove the six silver 64 mm T10 Torx screws securing the upper case to the metal casing.

Step 28

Orient the console so that the upper case is facing upwards.
Lift the upper case straight up and remove it from the console.

Step 29

Peel the silver tape securing the optical drive to the metal casing.

Does anyone know if the Silver Tape is Lead Tape?

Sean - 05/05/14

Looking at mine, I doubt it. It looks like standard foil tape

Rukir Gaming -

Step 30

Slightly lift the optical drive upwards to gain clearance to disconnect the SATA and power connectors located on the backside of the optical drive.
Don't try to completely remove the optical drive just yet. Two cables still connect it to the motherboard.

Step 31

Grab the power connector by its cables and pull it straight out of its socket on the optical drive.
Disconnect the SATA data connector from its socket on the optical drive by pulling it straight away.

I found the power cable to be very tough to get out, at least it is the first time doing this.

Nick Flacco -

Step 32

Lift the optical drive assembly out of the metal casing.

Be careful not to lose or break the two teeny metal clips securing the optical drive assembly snugly to the metal casing on either side of the drive's front face. I used a spudger to press in the topmost tines on these clips because they were catching on the drive and bending up. The clips should stay on the metal housing, not come off with the drive.

Vaughn Baker - 02/01/16

Step 33

Insert the flat end of a spudger into the small rectangular opening on the top of the cooling fan duct.
Carefully release the fan duct retaining clip and remove the fan duct from the Xbox.
The clip can alternatively be released using the metal finger of an Xbox 360 opening tool.

Fair warning for people using this guide for maintenance, the inside will likely have a coating of fine dust or dirt

Rukir Gaming - 09/03/24

Step 34

While lifting the metal chassis strip above the dual fans, pull the fans toward the center of the motherboard.
Do not completely remove the dual fan assembly yet. Its cable is still attached to the motherboard.

Cleaning out the fan now, will help problems in the future.

Joe Begley -

Super easy as long as you have that tool and follow the directions. Having never opened the xbox before I was able to do this in 15 min. And im sure now that I know how to do it, next time will be even quicker.

Thanks for the great instructions!

Lasher M -

Do Step 35 first (remove the fan connector from the motherboard), otherwise as you pull the fans forward out of the metal bracket you risk stressing the connector's attachment to the motherboard (because the fans will press against the connector as you pull them forward).

Vaughn Baker - 02/01/16

There are small black feet on the bottom of the fan assembly, You can push up from the bottom of the case if needed.

Gary Gallant - 05/11/16

these are powerful fans. im having over heating issues with a brushless motor. anything less than a 120mm pc fan does nothing. but i must keep the top off to fit the 120 and adequate heat removal. so i wanna use tbis turbo fan and mount i ti the lid.

how do i remove the blades and get to the bearings and guts??

theres no rear access hole hiding under the specs sticker.

please help! thank

Robert Ahearn (Little Bobby) -

Step 35

Lift the dual fan connector straight up from its socket on the motherboard.
Some fan connectors have a locking tab. If yours has a locking tab, be sure to depress it while disconnecting the fan from the motherboard.
Remove the dual fan assembly from the console.

Step 36

Use the flat end of a spudger to release the clips securing the RF module shield along the top and the left edge of the RF module.
It may be easier to use your fingernail to release the clips from the RF module.
Remove the RF module shield from the console.

Step 37

Remove three 5.6 mm T8 Torx screws securing the RF module to the metal chassis.

for whatever reason the T8 screws holding the RF receiver on my unit were torqued on pretty hard. almost impossible to get off. IS taking the RF off really necessary?

matt337 -

They all seem like that the further down we go. Unless you're here to just repaste the board, you have to take it off

Rukir Gaming -

Step 38

Grasp the RF module and lift it straight up to disconnect it from its socket on the motherboard.
Remove the RF module from the console.

Step 39

Remove the following screws securing the motherboard to the metal casing:
Nine gold 11 mm T10 Torx screws.
Eight black 5.6 mm T8 Torx screws.
If you are reassembling your Xbox 360 after installing the Red Ring of Death Fix Kit, the eight T8 Torx screws circled in orange are not reused.

kinda hard for a KID to do this huh also I am a 9 year old you get it

Andy Ewing - 11/02/17

well, it almost as if this is labeled as Difficult in the beginning!

Francisco Ontiveros-Nuñez - 15/04/20

The T8’s were T9’s on mine. This guide could be wrong, or my toolkit was mislabeled. If you can’t get the T8’s out, try a T9 before stripping the screws!

Braden Estenson - 11/03/19

They were T8’s for me

Ryan Lee - 19/12/20

Step 40

Turn the Xbox over, being careful not to let the motherboard fall out of the chassis.
Lift the motherboard assembly from its front edge.
Be careful not to damage the sockets as you rotate the motherboard away from the metal casing.
Remove the motherboard assembly from the metal casing.

Step 41

Insert the tip of a small flathead screwdriver between the X clamp and its retaining post on the heat sink.
Pry the X clamp away from its retaining post until it is lifted above the small groove cut into the retaining post.

Place a piece of cardboard on the motherboard to protect it from scratches in case the screwdriver slips.

Aaron -

The instructions on how to remove the x clamps are insufficient. I had a great deal of trouble with them. The small flathead screwdriver included with the kit is too small and weak to do the job. I ended up Googling other how-to's. I used a larger screwdriver and FINALLY popped them off, however as careful as I tried to be in the process I accidentally damaged a few traces around the screw hole. Repair was a failure, still have 3 red lights. Waste of time and money.

sbrasfield1 -

Why the heck would you suggest using a screwdriver to release the x-clamps from the motherboard, knowing that the screwdriver could slip and damage some of the traces on the motherboard!? Didn't see the comment about placing a piece of cardboard on the motherboard to prevent scratching until I had already screwed up my Xbox. How hard would it be for iFixit to develop a tool to easily remove the x-clamps like they did to open the Xbox? I wanted to do this to prevent any possibility of overheating, and went from a working Xbox to a dead one because of this bad step. Definitely took my view of iFixit down a notch, will be much more hesitant to recommend their tools and guides after this. Would like a refund but I know that's not going to happen. Super ticked!

fdwboy - 03/05/14

Same thing just happened to me, the tiny screw driver they say to use has next to 0 leverage to get it off. Now my repair kit is useless cause I physically removed some of the bits because my screwdriver slipped.

Forren - 18/06/14

I found that inserting a sprudger between the X clamp and retaining post and turning while lifting worked well without damaging the board

Patrick Kremer - 22/10/16

The tool provided in the kit is completely incapable of performing this step (prying the X off the post).

Ben Mulligan - 02/04/17

I had no problems using the tools provided in the RROD kit. Patience is key, also pay close attention to the pictures referenced in the guide, they are incredibly helpful.

Adam Hall - 25/09/17

I originally had a lot of issues prying them up; I was really worried about accidentally scratching the board. The instructions don’t seem fully adequate. Instead, first pry all four corners as high up as possible, pointing the screwdriver towards the center of the X clamp. If you pry them practically horizontally, then it makes the whole process a lot easier. Then work individually, pushing each corner slowly outwards and upwards, putting the screwdriver in from above (not the side as step 42 shows, too dangerous) into the small space between the screw and the X. Be careful at this point, just in case. Also, DON’T use the small flat head screwdriver provided; it’s too tiny to get proper leverage. I used 1/8 in. See this tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pHzEV3c_...

Sophia Vera - 08/04/18

Maybe the tiny flathead in the kit I got is newer than the old ones…

DO NOT stick the screwdriver vertical as shown in step 41!

Instead use it like step 42. Insert it only that way, between each front of the X clip arm and the post, and turn it so the screwdriver turn pushes the bottom of the X clip off the post.

No risk of damaging the board this way.

Christopher Evert - 17/01/19

Instructions were very unclear, but comments helped. Both used cardboard and the tutorial found here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pHzEV3c_... as mentioned by Sophia Vera. Took my time, and mostly used a longer screwdriver like in step 42. Once the first 3 clips come off, the fourth one essentially falls off, so be ready to catch your heat block when you pop the third one.

KYLE MANN - 12/02/21

Step 42

Insert your screwdriver parallel to the motherboard between the X clamp and its retaining post.
Twist the screwdriver to fully release the X clamp from its retaining post.
Repeat this process for all four corners of the X clamp.
When removing the last corner of the X clamp and holding the motherboard upside down, be sure to catch the GPU heat sink to avoid damage from it falling.

Step 43

To reinstall the X clamp, first start by attaching two corners to the posts on the heat sink.
While holding the third arm of the X clamp down against the post attached to the heat sink, use a small flathead screwdriver to pry the X clamp away from the heat sink post.
As you pry, press down on the arm of the X clamp until you "walk" it down into the retaining groove cut into the post attached to the heat sink.
Repeat this process for the fourth arm of the X clamp.

Is the x-clamp supposed to be reinstalled? It's not pictured in any part of the instructions after this point, so I did not reinstall it, and putting the xbox back together now is different than taking it apart.

amplifiedgir -

The X-clamps are not reused. Since you install machine screws in place of the X-clamp mounting posts, you do not reinstall the eight screws highlighted in orange on step 41.

Andrew Bookholt -

Step 44

Remove the GPU heat sink.
Before reinstalling the GPU heat sink, be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste.
If you need to mount the heat sink back onto the motherboard, we have a thermal paste guide that makes replacing the thermal compound easy.

Step 45

Insert the tip of a small flathead screwdriver between the X clamp and its retaining post on the heat sink.
Pry the X clamp away from its retaining post until it is lifted above the small groove cut into the retaining post.
If necessary, insert your screwdriver parallel to the motherboard between the X clamp and its retaining post. Twist the screwdriver to fully release the X clamp from its retaining post.
Repeat this process for all four corners of the X clamp.
When removing the last corner of the X clamp and holding the motherboard upside down, be sure to catch the CPU heat sink to avoid damage from it falling.
Remove the CPU heat sink from the motherboard.

Step 46

The X-clamps are not reused when installing the red ring of death fix kit.
Now that the heat sinks are off both processors, use a plastic spudger to remove all of the old thermal paste residue from the faces of both processors and the inner faces of the heat sinks.
Work slowly as you remove the old residue, as many sensitive components are soldered near the processors. If damaged, you may need a whole new motherboard
It is best to use a solvent such as ArctiClean to dissolve the old thermal paste and remove all residue before applying new paste. Alternatively, you can use a mild solvent such as a high purity rubbing alcohol.
You can also use many classic dry-deoxidating sprays: spray it on the paste then rub it; you will remove the paste almost effortlessly and with no residues.
Now is also a good time to clean any dust out from between the fins of both heat sinks.

Do yourself a favor and buy some ArctiClean... I used Isopropyl Alcohol and Q-Tips and ended up spending 45 mins scrubbing the surfaces. I imagine with the Arcticlean it would've taken mere minutes.

Vaughn Baker - 02/01/16

WD-40 is another option, Be sure to apply minimal amounts carefully using q-tips to gently rub away the thermal paste. Use isopropyl to clean up afterwards.

PATRICK BRUNER - 14/08/19

Step 47

After cleaning, the mating faces of the heat sinks and the processors should look as shown.
Before proceeding any further, now is the perfect time to reflow the solder on the motherboard. Reflowing provides a higher chance of success in fixing red ring failures and is not hard to accomplish. All that is required is a heat gun. We have a guide that makes it easy.

Step 48

Flip the motherboard over.
If your motherboard does not have RAM chips on its underside like the board pictured, skip this step.
Peel off the four silicone thermal pads stuck to the RAM chips on the bottom of the board.

Step 49

Use the 1/4" socket drive end of the included screwdriver with no bit inserted to remove the four X-clamp posts from both the CPU and GPU heatsinks.

Step 50

Apply a thin layer of thermal paste to the areas highlighted in red.
If you have never applied thermal paste, we have a guide that makes it easy.
After applying thermal paste to the processors, it is time to reattach the heat sinks one at a time. In our case, we attached the CPU heat sink first.

Step 51

This step is performed with the motherboard out of the chassis.
Insert a machine screw through each of the four holes around the CPU heat sink, with their heads on the back side of the board.
While holding the head of the screw, place a nylon washer then a metal washer over the threads.
The order of the washers is important. Do not put the metal washer on first.
When attaching the CPU heat sink, be sure the fins are aligned with the air flow from the fans (as seen in the third picture). Having the flat side of the fins perpendicular to the air flow will cause your Xbox 360 to overheat.
Using the large flathead screwdriver bit, tighten the screws into the CPU heat sink. First lightly tighten the four screws in an X-shaped pattern as seen in the second picture, then follow the same X-shaped sequence to really torque the screws down.
Don't be afraid of over-tightening the screws - the pressure between the heat sinks and processors caused by sufficiently torqued screws is needed to squeeze the processors back against the board.
Repeat the same process to attach your GPU heat sink.

what size screws and washers are those?

Matt -

M5 x 10 I beleive

Marc -

We only had a hardcopy printout of this guide when we tried this fix, but we were still confused by the relative order of the placement of the washers. If we had read the nylon washers makes contact with the motherboard and the metal washers make contact with the heatsink, we would likely get more clarity with the washer placement.

lkvee - 18/12/14

Maybe consider including a couple of extra washers in the kit. The vast majority of my repair time has been spent looking for the nylon washer that dispersed onto the kitchen tile floor.

Christopher Garner - 24/09/17

There is exactly one valid orientation for the CPU heatsink - the heat pipe must be on the side with the capacitors, not the side where the GPU is, otherwise it’d block the GPU heatsink from fitting back. I had to take the CPU heatsink off and re-do it after doing it the wrong way the first time.

ajanata - 09/03/19

is one single nylon washer important? because I bumped into the table and it fell out and got lost :/

Francisco Ontiveros-Nuñez - 15/04/20

This part was a little tricky fitting the screws under the tray through the heat sinks

Ishmael Willis - 29/06/20

Step 52

Use the edge of your small flathead screwdriver or another thin and sharp object to carefully pull up a corner of the blue or white plastic sheet covering the adhesive on the bottom of both heat sinks.
Be careful not to wrinkle or peel up the adhesive in the process.
Peel the protective sheets off the adhesive on both heat sinks.

Step 53

Lightly clean the surface of the two chips highlighted in red on the first picture.
Be sure to position the heat sinks correctly before you stick them down, as the adhesive is extremely strong and sensitive to being repositioned.
Stick the two heat sinks down against the top of the two chips highlighted in red on the first picture, being sure the fins are aligned as seen in the second picture.
When reinstalling the optical drive, be sure both the power and SATA cables do not interfere with the heat sink attached closest to their sockets on the motherboard.

They provide you with different heat sinks in the kit. Correct me if i am wrong but it looks like it is not nessary to make sure your are placing the heat sinks correctly, since all sides look the same.

Joey J - 06/09/15

I did the fix and now it does nothing I can't figure out why

Andrew woods - 11/05/16

Step 54

If your motherboard lacks RAM chips on its bottom face, it is not necessary to apply thermal pads.
Remove the clear and colored plastic backing material from all four thermal pads.

Step 55

Stick the thermal pads down against the RAM chips on the bottom of the board.
The thermal pads included in your kit might be slightly different colors than those pictured.
Reinstall the motherboard back into the chassis and reassemble your Xbox 360.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions from Step 42 in reverse order.

Author

Andrew Bookholt

585795 Reputation

68 comments

I didn't have a heat gun so I disabled the fan and left the 360 on for 1/2 hour to heat up the weak solder points and then let it cool down for 1/2 hour before re-assembling the 360. This gave me all green lights.

ChasCam580 -

Unfortunately this repair only lasted a few months on my xbox, going to try it again and hope for better results.

zima539 -

When you take it apart, I recommend following our reflow guide before installing the RROD fix kit. I recently did this to an X360 that the RROD kit fixed only momentarily and afterwards it worked good as new.

Andrew Bookholt -

I did the relowing of the motherboard this weekend, hopefully it lasts longer than the previous repair.

zima539 -

I followed this guide and even performed the reflowing procedure. It worked perfectly. I noticed that when I took my Xbox 360 apart there were no existing thermal pads on the RAM chips on the underside of the mobo. Perhaps this caused the problem...? Either way this guide was thorough and easy to follow. Be sure to read ahead a step or two because some things are described generally in one step, then in better detail in the step after.

joekane1 -

first of all -> THANK YOU iFIXIT!

my xbox died on me 3 days before the MW3 release. 3 red lights! what a timing.

i followed the guide and did everything slow and careful as instructed. (didnt do the reflow.)

the thermal paste thing was a bit tricky wasnt really sure how much i

have to put on the CPU and GPU to provide the right cooling but after

assembling all back together and hitting the "on" button the green lights came on!

haven't tried to play a longer session but i definetly will do this weekend with MW3.

Tsimi -

my 360 didn't have the three lights, but it still didn't work. First I thought there was something with the AV cables because the power button was green like normal yet there was no audio or video response coming from the TV. I tried swapping cables and that didn't work so I figured it was the xbox. I tried this fix and it worked great! So if anyone is wondering if this can fix a broken xbox only if that xbox has a RROD, perhaps give this fix a try because it worked for me.

Alexander DeBavelaere -

I have a question, can i do it only by changing the 4 thermal pads, and not moving on those x things? like, not changing anything on the cpu or gpu, please someone let me know asap

SergioSilva -

no change.didnt work

terry -

What's the best place to purchase all the parts in repair kit, but individually. I don't need everything provided, but just the heat sinks etc.

Eric Long -

Eric,

you can get the kit and tools to repair your xbox thru www.Ifixit.com for a little over $30. for everything you get its well werth it.

Hope this helps!

Laurap6286

Laurap6286 - 24/12/17

iFIXIT store probally

Alexander Wiand - 12/10/18

first off the instructions were great i followed everything didn't have a heat gun so i tried what the first commenter tried with just lettting it run without the fan let it cool still nothing I used rubber washers instead of nylon washers could that be whats preventing my xbox from working? any comments or advice would be greatly appreciated

tdawg -

This worked perfectly! Took a bit longer than I thought, but I went slow with the X clamps and decided to reuse them as well. Just paid for a $5.00 tube of thermal paste. $5.00 and no more RROD, thanks!

avoca120 -

I didn't have 3 red rings before the repair, but I knew it was overheating as it couldn't run a game for long, but was fine with some arcade games and DVDs. After the repair, and removing lots and lots of dust that has accumulated over 6 years, it NOW has the 3 red rings. Did I not put enough paste on? Any ideas would be helpful.

larzjudith -

The RROD is caused by the mother boards bending form poor heat transfer out of the system....the circuits become weak and break. the heating gun is used to effectively resolder the system and hopefully unbend the motherbaord enough to ge the system working again....their solutions to keeping it from happening again is thermal paste and new conduction tech that is more modern...once you get it working try getting more fans...or some sort of cooling solution in the system.

Samuel Irwin -

Guide worked great. Cleaned off all the old thermal paste with isopropyl then used a heat gun to reflow the solder. To all those wondering if you have to remove the x-clamps; the answer is yes. The reason the consoles RRoD is because of the x-clamps putting too much stress on the motherboard. Just make sure you clean everything really well and be careful. Also, I used MX-2 instead of the crap they send with the kit.

fliprealsorry101 -

i did all the thing it said in the guide to do worked great my xbox is working again but now i cant sink my wireless controllers to my xbox iv read online that it might be the RF that needs replacing i just want to see if anyone can tell if there is anything i can try before i buy the part

bradley -

Just used your Red Ring of Death Kit with success. Did the thermal rework too. It has been working for over an hour now so looks ok. Cooking the chips on "High" for four minutes was a bit scary but it survived. I have a thermal rework gun which I check with a thermocouple temperature probe which plugs in to my test meter. If I may make one small criticism it would help to have actual temperatures where you have stated "Low" and "High" Just ball park figures would be enough. This is the first use I've made of the rework gun so still building up skill with the technique. Obviously the effective temperature will vary according to the nozzle distance from the job. Otherwise very good kit and excellent instructions. Also worked with your Android app running on my tablet next to the job. Fantastic. Have fitted very many heat sinks as I have built computers since they ran on steam so no problem here. I'm a retired Electronics Engineer and will be 80 in December this year. Hands as steady as a surgeon but need glasses to work now. Many thanks. Keep up your good work.

Pete Green -

Well that made 2 hours of my time worth it, my old 360 runs again. Thanks to Ifixit for the kit and the guide on how to do it. Well worth the cost.

mittelk -

This technique works. Use a heat gun. Don't try any of the dopey "hack" fixes, like wrapping your Xbox in a towel, running it without the fans, or putting it in the oven. This is iFixit - they show you the right way to do things. Their guides work for a reason - they know what they're doing.

You CAN buy thermal compound, cleaning solution, and even the screws & washers elsewhere, but these dudes deserve your cash.

bundito -

i had the code E74 problem for my xbox 360 elite. the Ring Of Death kit fixed the problem. now my elite works like a charm. it had 1 ring on bottom right corner of the console. thank you for the support

Mathology317 -

I originally tried to fix my Red Ring of Death issue by just applying new thermal paste and not using iFixit's RRoD kit. Unfortunately, the repair did not work. So stopped being cheap and decided to buy the iFixit RRoD kit. Reflowing my XBOX's motherboard and applying the iFixit RRoD kit worked like a charm. GTA 5...here I come!

Hero Johnson -

Thank you for the guide and the repair kit. It unfortunately didn't solve my issue, but everything went smoothly and if I were to get another old Xbox - for repair or for a friend - I'd look here first to getting it up to par and to increase its life.

And to those who go "The video wasn't all that descriptive about x"... READ! Seeing can help, but the text guide was perfect at describing every aspect of my Xbox's dis-assembly.

markwatermaniac -

this didnt work at all im afraid, it would have been great if it did. but nothing has changed.

Ben Kiddle -

So successfully installed RROD kit and did a very cautious reflow... had green lights and went to bed. Woke up to continue reassembling unit and it was right back to 3 light RROD... I have just done a slightly less cautious reflow and am hopeing it will ressurect the console... if it doesn't well there goes the cost of the kit, 30 bucks in shipping and an unhappy family.

Kassandra Ariel Sherry -

Just received my kit and installed it in my RROD Xbox 360. Followed all the steps as well as the reflow and thermal paste guides. After reassembling the whole thing carefully... the kit unfortunately didn't work.

neilkrentz -

Do i really need arctic silver thermal paste or i can use any other?

vladtiry -

You can use a different type of thermal paste, but we recommend Arctic Silver.

Taylor Arnicar -

Hi all,

I did the advices in the guide but unfortunately, it doesn't work. Now i have two red lights before i had three. Anybody can help me ?

Thank you.

garcialoic1 -

This RROD fix kit didn't work for me, sadly.

Julian -

I don't care what anybody says, this guide actually worked for me. I made an account just to say that. Although, I will tell you, after immediately following the guide I got RROD again. What I did was towel trick (Google it ;) my console for a good 45 minutes. I then, let it cool for like another 45 minutes. Next thing you know.... :D

Shohid Islam -

The RROD kit did not work for me. :( So I guess I wasted $30 I could have put toward buying a different one.

neptune3452 - 23/04/14

I went through the guide a few nights ago. I have an older Xbox, One of those old white guys that everyone knows and loves. It lasted me a lot longer than I had expected, outliving a few of the newer versions that my friends had bought long after I had gotten mine. However, a few months ago it came down with a case of RROD. I thought "Great, no more warranty, I guess i can pay 100 bucks to get it repaired or just buy a whole new system for even more!" but thankfully, I bought the kit and now it's working like new. Super easy to take apart, no problems except for two. The first being that it's a pain to bolt in the heatsinks with the washers and everything. I used a trick where I used a few toothpicks through the mobo holes and washers to hold everything in place until I could get the bolt in and threaded. Aside from initially reinstalling the CPU heatsink in the wrong way (i blame lack of sleep) i was able to take it down again and redo it no problem at all. A fairly easy, cheap, and effective repair.

Zombie1995 - 26/04/14

Is this fix permanent? If it is not how long does it last?

Potato - 14/06/14

Kit was missing a nylon washer, and peeling the backing off of the thermal pads tore the pads to pieces. I followed the instructions exactly and made due with what I had, and did an entire system dusting. Now the Xbox won't run, whereas it had the red ring and would run prior to the repair. I have a history with computer construction and repair, so I was very careful and exact. I'll troubleshoot and re-do the thermal paste, yet at this time I'm calling this product a waste of time and money.

Chase - 20/08/14

I didn't have a heat gun so I used a blow dryer to heat up the board. Might not have been hot enough I assume since I still have the 3 red lights. I left it connected and turned on but nothing happens with the 3 red lights flashing. Can't even get it to heat up without the fans either. I will be buying a heat gun today to try it again and hope it works. If not, is there anything else I can try?

WALTER BARRIOS - 10/11/14

You can put the board in your oven I've done it a long time ago on one xbox 360 and I still have it, sense then it hasn't had the rrod

coolgamez - 16/05/15

Imagine my horror when I went to play my brand new copy of Dragon Age: Inquisition, and received a nasty little screen that said "E74". Came here, bought this kit & a $20 heat gun from the hardware store (to reflow the motherboard), and now I and Iron Bull are roaring through the Hinterlands! I am not a particularly "handy" person, so if I can do it, so can you. iFixit, you guys are awesome!

sabina007 - 25/11/14

Followed all the steps meticulously and still RROD. Another $30 down the drain I suppose plus still a nonfunctional xbox. sighh

JAZYTSAX - 11/03/15

I finally had the chance to attempt to repair the xbox for my son, it took a few but at the end with the guide and the parts I bought NO MORE RROD :-)

Thank you for the guide

Tom G.

Thomas Giles - 24/08/15

I did this for error code 0020 and now I get 0003. I bought the kit installed it after reflowing the xbox. Please help, eager baby cousin waiting to get back to his minecraft.

Ivanscreativity - 03/09/15

I just completed the above steps. I reflowed the board prior to putting in the kit. No more Red lights! We will see how long it lasts but for now, I'm one very satisfied customer!

Toby Brogden - 03/01/16

Installed the RROD fix kit and it didn't work. I didn't do the reflow because I don't have a heat gun. It was a great guide and fun project.

Brent Mealhouse - 16/01/16

A blow dryer (Hair dryer) works great as a heat gun... I have had many successes on second tries because the first try didn't work...

Tim Gelvin - 20/01/17

I din't work for me.. i have purchased the repair kit and installed all but i have still the red ring!

Sorry for my bad English.

willemswesley - 07/04/16

It didnt work for me.. i have purchased the repair kit but i still have the red ring of dead.. please help

willemswesley - 07/04/16

Purchased the kit and installed, however the unit booted up, saw the Xbox logo, then it locked up and back to the red ring :(

John Wiggins - 19/11/16

I went this way but it was not fixed :(

Mohy - 07/12/16

On the bottom side of the Mainboard just under the X clips some super Tiny small blocks fell off when I tried to reflow with the heat gun. Now my xbox wont work at all. What are those TINY blocks called that is just beneath the center of the X clips.

Samuel Marcum - 19/01/17

Well you just made your xbox a toaster set... those pieces that fell off were electrical components. Time to go buy a new xbox! You might want to let the professionals do the repairs for you next time. Sorry for your bad luck!

Tim Gelvin - 20/01/17

Many thanks... tried my first one today... bought the complete repair kit.. Found the instructions an images very easy to follow.. Job done and working perfectly... THANK YOU.. keep up the good work

damian s - 02/09/17

Thank you! My xbox360 is almost more than 10 years old, and have three red rings after 10~15minutes. I tried this guide without kit and skipped some steps, but it works!

My six screw driver did not match small size screw…. so I skipped step 36 ~ 52 , 54, 55. I just sticked two heat sinks on two chips (only step 53) but it works. Thank you very much!!!

William Jang - 24/06/18

Worked for us, Thanks a lot! We have launch core console, that we bought for 40€ on the flea market, but had a 3 rrod. We 've done the reflow, and used coins instead of cooling pads. We had then 4 rrod after it, but fortunately we only forgot the AV cable (this box has no HDMI). Now it runs like new. :-)

anonymous 6698 - 10/11/18

Never use this “Fix”… Please please do not use bolts. It breaks the system even more and acts as a temporary fix. Use the original X Clamps that were originally on the system. Your best bet would be re flowing the chips are replacing the thermal paste. ALWAYS USE THE X CLAMPS, NEVER USE BOLTS!

Jacob Fulenwider - 16/01/19

bonjour, merci pour le démontage mais je veut un schéma électrique / électronique du carte mère de x box 360 fat 2005 merci d’avance mon

email : rida9901@gmail.com

rida - 15/05/20

Awesome! it works, and it's not the first time I deal with micro electronics, I try to be more careful every time ( I'm getting better I think?) This is a cool website and I will further look into its fixings for other things I have that need updating to figuring out questions I have.

I finally was able to fix my xbox from 20 years of rrod circle, avoiding wanting to send it in, ha, I'm curious to see if other functions are now out of date with what they have going on in their database systems to tech now in bits communication. Yes, it was like going into the past with my old profile, will have to set it up a new now.

Ishmael Willis - 29/06/20

I just installed the kit and everything seems to be working. However, the fans are really loud now. I may be miss remembering but I have never heard them this loud before. I’m wondering if somehow the heat sensors go off of the heat sync temp and since they are transferring heat better now they are hotter and the fans are told to spin faster? It seems to be running fine so I just want to be sure that I can keep using the system without having to worry about it.

Braxton Biggers - 25/07/20

Please don’t do this to your 360… all you will do is damage it beyond repair bu trying to fix “broken solder joints” that aren’t even there… the issue lies in the flip chip itself, not the solder under the substrate.

RockL79 - 15/12/20

Yeah right microsoft design the xbox 360 do die back in 2006-2008

sportyantoniow1 - 17/12/20

I bought the RROD repair kit from IFIXIT. I think the motherboard solder reflow step was critical for fixing my unit. I used an Ancor heat gun on low setting (572 F) for 1 minute on the bottom side followed by 3 minutes on top side. I monitored the temp of the board by touch and when it started getting pretty warm, decided to stop the reflow. it’s all a guess as to what time and temp will work. I then applied the thermal paste and heat shields, reassembled the unit, powered it on and it ran perfectly. The RROD repair kit and instructions were great.

Michael Phillips - 17/01/21

I performed this repair about 8 months ago as a preventive measure. Console has not had any issues since the repair, but I’ve been reading that replacing the x-clamps with the screws and washers (the so-called “bolt mod”) actually will (1) cause the motherboard to flex and (2) lead to unrepairable damage. iFixit contributors, is it true? If so, does the method in this guide somehow protect against flexing? Should I disassemble my console and reinstall the x-clamps?

Michael Fleischmann - 03/03/21

Well, I have everything torn down and cleaned up and am ready to put the thermal paste on and put things back together. BUT I noticed there were two small silver “clip like” pieces that came off from somewhere and I don’t know where!! HELP!! They are about 1 - 1.5 “ long and 1/8 inch wide or narrower. There are 6 small rectangular holes with little flaps that look like they should slide onto or connect to something. One end has a small clip and the other end has a arrow like slide. Anyone have any ideas where these go? Thanks for any advice!!

Dschue -

I think the ones you mean are the clips of the chassis that go on the left and right side of the dvd drive opening . You have to put the bottom of the clip in the chassis and then slide it up over the edge on the top of the chassis

TheKillerbee24 -

Where do I even start? PLEASE FOR THE LOVE OF GOD DON’T DO THIS TO YOUR CONSOLE. Instead of me rambling about how this should be removed, watch this video which explains why this is a BAD IDEA: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C8gggL3f...

wavvy01 -

I didn't work for me but I'm going to let it run for a little while to over heat it also were do you solder the motherboard?

Aurelio -

Try hot iron on the chip instead of reflow.And pls check capacitor's they go.bad.fast.usualy I recap first.

ediflorianUS -

This guide worked! That was definitely worth it. Thank you ifixit!

JetBluefan1 -