Steam Deck Right Button Board Replacement

Written By: Carsten Frauenheim

Comments: 124

Steam Deck Right Button Board Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

45 minutes - 1 hour

Introduction

Use this guide to replace the right button board on your Steam Deck LCD.

Remember: follow general electrostatic discharge (ESD) safety procedures while repairing your device.

These steps only describe how to physically remove and replace your console’s button board. You may need additional software tools and calibration procedures to get a replacement board to function as intended.

Tools

Step 1

Turn on your Steam Deck and allow the battery to discharge below 25% before starting your repairs, as a charged lithium-ion polymer battery can be dangerous if accidentally punctured.
As an extra precaution, Valve recommends putting your Steam Deck into battery storage mode within the BIOS before starting any internal repairs. Read how to do that here.
Power down your Steam Deck and unplug any cables.
If you have a microSD card installed, make sure to remove it before opening the Steam Deck. If you attempt to remove the back cover with it still installed, it could snap right in half.
During your repair, it can be helpful at times to lay the Steam Deck face-down into its case to protect the thumbsticks and prevent wobble.

Step 2

Use a Phillips driver to remove the eight screws securing the back cover:
Four coarse thread 9.5 mm-long screws
Four fine thread 5.8 mm-long screws
Despite the standards, Phillips screwdrivers can vary in size and shape—two drivers labeled as the same size may fit differently in the same screw. Use the size that fits the snuggest into the screw head.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your Steam Deck.

there should be a picture of the SD card slot at the start of every Steam Deck teardown. i know the note is there but i generally use the pictures to guide me and forgetting to remove the SD card is a very critical step

Nathan Barrow -

I agree, I just broke mine...

Camille B -

What is the the #1 philips used for? Only the #0 is mentioned in the instructions.

Christopher Martin -

I wish they would specify which size to use for which screws.

Mark D -

I found it easiest to use a PH1 for the red screws, and PH0 for the rest (including the internals.)

Chris Clawson -

Be careful you can strip the screws take your time

I use PH00 bit

jaybush74 -

I used the PH1 bit for this. You can use smaller bits but ideally there should be no play of the bit in the screw head.

Charles Semple -

are there playstation replacements (circle,square,cross,triangle)

Deór -

I used the ifixit tools and used the 00 size for the screws on the back.

Luis B - 10/01/23

I've completed the guide and found it very helpful!

I think somewhere in this part it would be helpful to name the size of the correct Phillips driver to use:

Use a Phillips driver to remove the eight screws securing the back cover:

Four 9.5 mm screws

Four 5.8 mm screws

Maynard -

I used the PH1 for the 9.5mm screws and PH00 for the 5.8mm screws. The PH0 wanted to strip one of the small ones.

Pol Llovet -

FYI - 512gb version has blue threadlocker on the Orange screws.

Kyle -

Just a point for knowledge sake, the Four 5.8mm screws on this step are factory installed with a version of locktite. Not sure why but there will be slight resistance when removing the first time.

Derek Schmidlin -

Stripped two of the 5.8mm screws, feel pretty dumb, now I'm stuck at step 2 of 43 :|

Yareyous -

Step 3

Insert an opening pick into the thin gap between the back cover and the front shell, along the edge of the right grip.
If you're having trouble inserting your pick at the grip seam, try starting at either the top or bottom long edges first, then slide the pick towards the grip.
Pry up on the back cover to release it from the locking clips.

I found it easiest to start this process at the top of the device near the fan exit.

Peter Lindberg -

second that and inserting the pick in the bottom middle and sliding the pick to each side

Sub -

I also found the top near the fan exit to be easier

Travis Patton -

Thank you for this tip, it definitely was easy starting at the top instead of by the bumper/triggers. After I opened the top I did the bottom and then it was way easier to gently open the sides. be very careful and go slowly to make sure that none of the clips are damaged

Luis B -

this as suggested above:

1. open the top

2. open the bottom

3.gently open the sides

austrasier - 17/04/23

same; i pried from the top of the screen area. I was unable to find an opening on the side

Dennis Wu -

I also started from the middle of the deck and worked my way out since I couldn't get a grip with the pick on the deck's side grips. Since this is a common step for pretty much all guides for opening the deck I think it's also worth noting that you should be careful not to bend the trims/seams where the front and back covers meet with the pick. When I first opened my deck you can definitely see where I nudged the pick in between the covers since I was probably using too much force on the pick itself.

Kaleb McKone -

It would be useful to note here that if you want to insert the little blue triangular iFixit opening picks into the right side along the edge, there isn't actually a gap as the directions say, at least not on newer Decks. You'll be making the initial gap using the pick. Brace it on something because you will need to use enough downward force that you're flexing the pick a bit and it'll probably be digging into the skin of a bare hand. With enough force suddenly it will make a click and go in just a bit, and then you're in business.

CaptFrost -

plastic picks didnt work for me but finger males did the job on prying this open

jacobbagsic -

I found it easiest to open starting with R1 or L1 buttons and proceeding to the center of the top edge

Karol Gro -

This step was the hardest by far. First I didn't find an opening at the sides, and it did take a really long time until I finally got it open... Then, when I had the one side opening open it didn't just pop out, I needed to slide all the way to the other side with the pick and open everything. I guess they made it even more drop resistant.

Dollique -

Step 4

Once the clips are disconnected from one edge, the rest disconnect easily.
Grip the back cover at the opening you just created and pull it up and away from the device to unclip the long edges.
Remove the back cover.

If you have an SD card, you will want to take it out. I followed the guide and didn't think about the SD card I had inside. When I went to snap the case back on it clapped shut on the exposed SD card, shearing it in half and leaving the bottom half stuck in the SD card slot. I am still endeavoring to get it out.

Novice -

you can use the case that comes with the steam deck to support it once the lid is removed

Luis Barbosa (Armored Saint) -

You can get the pry pick inserted easier if you start in the gap for the shoulder buttons. A lego brick separator works well here

Andrew Borsje -

Step 5

If you have a refreshed Steam Deck version with the black motherboard cover, skip this step.
Use a pair of tweezers to remove the piece of foil tape covering the hidden screw on the board shield.
If possible, try not to rip or tear this tape so it can be reused. If necessary, you can fashion a replacement by cutting a piece of aluminum foil tape to fit.

Use some heat here from a hairdryer to make this part easier.

If you screw up here you can replace the little aluminium square with some aluminium tape from Amazon. No less than 50 microns thick, slightly thicker is fine. and the square is 13mm both ways.

Matt S -

Thanks for that Matt, i destroyed the original tape and i had no solution since i read your comment.

Cihan Kocaman -

there are other new version of board shield from 2023.

Gorf Woo -

Is it alright to use the deck without the tape?

Jake -

You should not. This is EM shielding to protect your processor and ram from radio waves in the air

Andrew Borsje -

I found out my 3 Weeks new Steam Deck is a old Version... gg. Valve...

Miller Schiffer -

wenn ich aluminium foile benutze, womit soll ich sie dann verkleben?

Christian Dud -

If we have the new version with the black shield, how do we access the SSD?

James Bennett -

I need this part, does anyone know where to get it?

rolando norica -

Step 6

Use a Phillips driver to remove the three screws securing the board shield:
One 3.4 mm screw
Two 3.7 mm screws
Only the two 3.7 mm screws along the left edge are present in refreshed Steam Decks.

The procedure ended here for me, used an ifixit PH 00 bit on the screw behind the aluminium tape, bit wouldnt bite too great, one wrong twist and the screw was stripped. Not sure who or what initially screwed in that particular screw as the rest of the screws on the shield were fine, but boy is it in there tight. So now i have a stripped screw and a botched ssd replacement, don't think valve will let me RMA for this, but i'll give it a try and update accordingly.

Y. van S -

Any updates? Did they let you RMA?

Emanuel Gjoni -

I found one screw to be ridiculously tight too, managed to undo it without stripping thanks to reading your comment beforehand and going extra careful. Not going to lie, it was a tense moment :D

Andy HL -

I think the tendency is to go too small on the screwdriver bits because you're working on small electronics.

I used the PH1 bit on the screw under the foil and the PH0 bit for the two remaining screws without any problems.

Charles Semple -

What does this shield actually do? Some kind of magnetic protection?

Corey Cleric -

if I had to replace the key (R2) and that's it, can I directly remove it or do I have to act here on the motherboard too?

pujattidanny -

have you gotten an answer yet? trying to change mines as well but dont wanna do too much to the deck

briaNN -

button Not key, i’m sorry

pujattidanny -

I used the ifixit tools and used the 00 PH for these screws with no issue

Luis B -

If only swapping the SSD, it is not necessary to remove the top left 3.7mm screw. The heat shield is flexible enough that you can move it out of the way to access the SSD screw. For me this was necessary as the 3.7mm screw was completely unmovable and quickly stripped.

Scott A -

FYI there is a little pin on the cover that slots into the board. It is located near the top screw. I needed that to be inserted for the cover to go back down properly.

Seth Robinson -

For anyone who may have stripped a 3.7mm screw, Steam Support states it's M1.6 diameter with a 0.35 thread pitch and a 3mm length. Hopefully that'll help anyone trying to locate a replacement screw. Hoping iFixIt can make an internal screws kit as they're kinda hard to find the right one online.

Michael Dyer -

Did valve change the shield recently as my new 64gb deck has a black shield with no hidden screw.

David Alexander Hubbard -

Yes there's a new hardware revision out there that some people are getting. Consider stopping at this point and putting your deck back together if you have one of these new hardware revisions (the fan is quite different as well to the pictures) until iFixit has an updated repair guide.

Simon Meacham -

There are only 2 screws now, but be careful taking the shield off, because there are still thermal pads under it sticking it to a heat pipe.

Rudolfs Skurulis -

Are they m2 3.7mm screws? I am looking to replace mine because they instantly stripped and I had to remove them with needle nose pliers because they were over tightened.

Nick -

I need this piece, can someone help me where can I find it please?

rolando norica -

Step 7

Remove the board shield.
Depending on the age of your Steam Deck, this shield may stick to the thermal pads underneath.
During reassembly, ensure that the fan cable lays on the side of the board shield and isn't pinched underneath.

When putting back on, run a pick along the edge of the shield between the wires to make sure nothing is pinching and the wires are clear of the shield before screwing down.

Matt S -

During reassembly, ensure that the fan cable lays on the side of the board shield and isn't pinched underneath.

Are you saying that the fan cable should be positioned above the board shield instead of being pressed down by it? Just like the image shows, where it 'lays on the side of the board shield'?

James -

Necesito esta pieza la mía no la traía se ve que se la quitaro

rolando norica -

Step 8

Grip the battery cable by its pull tab and pull it directly away from the motherboard to disconnect it.
Alternatively, use the flat end of a spudger or a clean fingernail to gently push the connector out of its socket, then disconnect it completely by hand.

After fully reassembling my device I found that my battery was not showing any stats anymore. I couldn't start the device without being plugged in, however if I restarted it would stay on even if my power cable was detached. Battery showed 0%. It turns out I had not fully reinserted the battery cable at this stage during reassembly. MAKE SURE YOU PUSH IT ALL THE WAY BACK IN!

Michael Hoffmann -

Awesome thanks for this tip!

petergeranio -

It is helpful to lift up gently with a the tapered end of a spudger underneath the tucked-in portion of the battery cable, creating a bit of flex in the cable before pulling on the pull tab. I found that without doing so, the fabric pull-tab simply tore off of the cable under light-to-moderate force (the fabric itself ripped cleanly across, like a paper towel). Careful, gentle pressure with a spudger can be used to remove the plug by prying gently on the rear ridge of the plastic plug (not the wire!) if this happens.

Gene Eckser - 08/08/22

This is exactly what happened to me. Maybe it was a pull tab previously, mine was a ribbon cable that tore - captured the image here: https://www.ianwootten.co.uk/2022/11/22/...

Ian Wootten -

This was the best approach (and I feel safest for the wiring) for me. Mostly push pressure on the plastic ridge with some minor pull tension on the fabric.

Victor -

I found it less scary and easier to remove the battery connection by using a fingernail on the ridge and pushing it off the connector. I felt like pulling on the battery cable was too harsh.

montgomery mchargue -

Yeah, pulling cables like these is usually ill advice. They might be fine if it's a new device, but for old devices that have been sitting there for years, there's a good chance the connector has grown brittle and the cable might just come off separately (something I learnt the hard way).

skzm -

Upon plugging the battery back in, I found it easy to use two spudgers- one on each side- to pull/push the connector back into it's port. Be careful to not put any pressure on the battery wires themselves.

montgomery mchargue -

When reconnecting the battery cable, you'll know when it's inserted and power is restored, because the white LED will illuminate at the top of the Deck near the power button. You should be able to see it while you're reconnecting the battery cable

Michael Davis -

This is only true if you haven't put the deck into battery storage mode as directed.

Ean Manley -

Why not just let the battery discharge completely and then not have to disconnect it?

Jeffrey Martin -

Completely discharging a battery reduces its lifespan. It's completely unnecessary.

Stefan Camporese (CENTER) - 12/11/22

Because no lipo battery is ever completely discharged -- you would not be able to recharge it if it was. There will always be enough power left in it to cause damage if shorted even if it isn't charged enough to power up the device it's connected to.

David Cameron -

I would personally not recommend pulling the tab. It doesn’t apply force at the correct angle. You should revise these instructions to advise using a combination of pulling on the tab, and careful pressure on the connector towards the right of the mainboard to carefully work it out.

Using the pull tab alone could cause problems if not done extremely carefully.

William Winborne - 09/01/23

This part was wayyyyy easier than I anticipated and I worried for nothing because I used the ifixit spudger to push it out a bit and then I literally used my finger nail and was able to slide it right off. Dont be afraid, its not that difficult and its not that delicate to break if you do it patiently

Luis B - 10/01/23

I inserted the cable very firmly with a spunger, being careful not to press down too hard on the cables, and even tried redoing it, but I don't see any LED illumination. I am now unable to boot the deck into the boot manager. Any additional tips?

junefish -

What is the risk of not unplugging the battery? Just curious!

Nick Hight -

Once I was changing termal paste on my Windows based expensive tablet PC... And I was so scared to disconnect any cables (there was many of them), so I did it all with battery connected (I didn't even knew where is battery cable). When I tried to put board shield back... it didn't go right into needed place... and short circuit some small component. It flashed. That was the end of my repair. Dudies from repair service later told me that multiple components fried including CPU, so repairing is too hard. That's what can happen if you don't disconnect battery.

bugwarlabs - 02/06/23

To pull the battery out I used my spunger, but the batter had actually not space to be pulled out completely. I needed to lift the cable up with the spunger to get the cable fully out. When plugging it in again I had to press the battery down kinda hard so it would fit again. This was really scary and I recommand using two spunger as someone said above.

Dollique -

Does it have to be a clean fingernail?

Steven Murphy -

Step 9

The right trigger will be on your left-hand side when working on the Steam Deck, as it's laying upside down.
The Steam Deck's triggers clip into place on two pegs on the trigger bracket, which doubles as the hinge.
Place the flat end of a spudger onto the inside edge of the trigger's right clip.
Pivot the trigger clip out, away, and up from the peg to unlatch it.
During reassembly, latch the outermost peg first. Once in place, push down on the trigger to latch the innermost peg, producing an audible "click" sound.
Check to make sure that the trigger spring is properly aligned. Test the trigger action before continuing reassembly.

Step 10

Remove the right trigger.
Take care to not lose the trigger spring. It press-fits onto a peg on the trigger's underside.

This is by far the hardest part of the entire assembly. I don't know if its because I dropped mine but the trigger takes an incredible amount of force to get off, don't be afraid to break it. I still have no idea how to put the trigger back on, it just wont budge.

J4CK T -

In case the spring gets lost, it's 19 mm long with about 14 coils.

Claudiu Avram -

Step 11

Use a Phillips driver to remove the three 5.2 mm screws securing the right trigger bracket.

Step 12

Remove the right trigger bracket.
Replacement triggers require calibration to work as expected. To calibrate new triggers, follow this calibration guide.

The right bumper button on my switch deck stopped working after the deck was accidentally dropped from 5ft. When I got to this step of the instructions, I was able to see that the momentary switch that the button triggers had been bent backwards from the impact, making it difficult for the button to trigger the switch. I bent the switch back to its original position, which fixed the mechanical problem. Unfortunately the solder joints for the switch cracked when I pressed the switch forward. I re-flowed the solder joints with a tiny Weber iron that I filed down to a narrow point. The button works properly now.

Paul Krakow -

Step 13

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the thumbstick cable's ZIF connector.
Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.
Grip the cable by the blue pull tab, not by the cable itself.

Step 14

Use a Phillips driver to remove the three 5.2 mm screws securing the thumbstick.
During reassembly, you may need to hold the Steam Deck off of the work surface so it isn't resting on the new thumbstick while you tighten down the screws.

Step 15

Remove the right thumbstick.

Step 16

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the button board cable's ZIF connector.
Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.
Grip the cable by the blue pull tab, not by the cable itself.

Step 17

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the button board interconnect cable's ZIF connector.
Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.
Grip the cable by the blue pull tab, not by the cable itself.

Be very mindful of this cable during re-assembly, if this cable isn't fully seated properly the deck will turn on slowly and not be able to recognize any inputs besides the touch screen.

Peter Lindberg -

Step 18

If any connectors are covered with tape, use a pair of tweezers to remove it.
Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flaps on the rest of the button board ZIF connectors. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cables out of their connectors:
Disconnect the action buttons cable.
Disconnect the touchpad board cable.
Disconnect the touchpad cable.

Be especially careful disconnecting and reconnecting the touchpad cable. It is short and can pull out on the touchpad side fairly easily. Reconnecting it requires splitting open the touchpad itself which is difficult to do without damaging the springs.

acey_zero -

Step 19

Exercise caution when lifting this connector—pry up on the connector itself, not its housing.
Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up on the haptics cable to disconnect it.
Alternatively, you can leave the haptics connected to the button board and flip the board up and over the edge of the shell and out of the way.

Personally, i think this should just be a suggested step, since the connector is different and requires more force to disconnect than the ribbon cable connectors and you can leave this connected and lay the board over to the side without disconnecting this and still access the buttons.

Peter Lindberg -

I agree with Peter on this. I tried fixing my right bumper before ordering a replacement and during disassembly I followed these instructions exactly and still broke the bracket that holds the haptics connector. Luckily my haptics seem to still be working after putting it back together but I have a feeling it will disconnect on its own after some time and I will be needing a whole new button board.

Biscuits -

I did this very carefully and the bracket still broke

Christian McCarthy -

I broke the down part of the bracket as well. Glued it back on with some crazy glue applied with a wooden toothpick (to make sure to not touch anything else). Haptics still working. Next time I don't think I'll remove that connector.

Sébastien M -

Leave the haptic connector on and just move the button board out of the way. You will likely brake the haptic connector bracket by trying to remove it.

Frank -

I agree with everyone above. Attempting to disconnect the haptics is not worth it as it breaks extremely easily

Vince Gmerek -

Please remove this step. It is virtually impossible to remove this without breaking the housing and it's ultimately not necessary.

Eric Benante -

Wish I had seen this beforehand. My right connector just broke off. Ughhh.

Eric Merriweather -

Step 20

Use a Phillips driver to disconnect the four screws securing the right button board:
Three 5.2 mm screws
One 3.9 mm screw

Step 21

Remove the right button board.
Keep track of the quick access button and its membrane, as once the right button board is removed, they're no longer secured in place.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Steam Deck answers community for help.

Author

Carsten Frauenheim

Member since: 10/03/20

110978 Reputation

34 comments

When will this part be available?

Eric Canals -

Is there any update to when this part will be available?

Tim Ceesay - 29/09/22

Will this part not be available due to their need being a special calibration or hardware step? Having past six months this makes one think the part is not possible with end user due to another factor.

zZz - 17/10/22

Is there any estimated time to when this part will become available?

David Chan -

Parroting everyone else. When will this part be available?

Mario Noriega -

Yes, I need this part, as well. The plastic bumper piece is fine... the button on the board itself is my issue with my R1 button. Need this part... but don't want to send my Steam Deck away for several weeks on warranty... would rather fix it myself.

Dan Lnenicka -

I fixed the micro switch myself, see my comment: Steam Deck Right Button Board Replacement

Shane Qi -

Same issue, it just came loose of the solder for me. Seems to take alot of the force of button press.

Michael -

I finally broke my screen (kid stepped on it next to my bed!) and I was going to buy both this part and a screen from iFixit and do the repairs myself.

This part isn't available! I guess I'll try and send it on warranty.

Andrew Ballinger -

Man, I have an issue with my right R1 bumper. & they want me to send it in for that, @ NO CHARGE that's great & all but I STILL DONT TRUST THE SYSTEMS in place to protect my device I just can't see it being worth it in the long run scares TF outta me.

Don't get me wrong The Steam Deck is not that hard to obtain especially in the location I live. There are at least 5 Steam Decks being sold a day on Facebook Market Place. So, if it really came down to it I'd jus buy a new 1 while waitin for their idiot @%^!* to replace mines or figure out the issue/issue's. There is ALWAYS, I MEAN ALWAYS a dam issue when goin this route.

I hate being the negative Ned here, but its the dam truth. I have heard some of the narlyest Horror stories about people sending in for repairs to Valve on Redit. I know alot of the people posting on Redit are jus trolls but still if even 20% of the stories were true that's insane. & I jus don't care to deal with ANY of it, if I don't have too.

🎮👍-Best of luck to you buddy-👍🎮

sgtkickazzttv -

What you mean you Finely broke your screen it's like you already predicted your Steam Dexks fate with bad JuJu.

LolLz did the Steamy Deck ever have a chance with an outlook like that?!? I don't think the Steam Deck REALLY ever had a chance . SADGE!!

Oh well as long as your able too fix her up I am happy! Haha. Also if your already gonna be buying a new screen I would suggest to upgrade too the newer anti glare screen it helps a WHOLE LOT MORE & if I am not mistaken the upgraded LCD is ONLY $99.99 WHICH IS SO WORTH IT!! Especially, if your already looking to replace the screen. Just some advice buddy. I mean other than that the "upgraded screen" wouldn't really be worth it. But in this case so worth it.

sgtkickazzttv -

Hello I want to buy this part please

Blake N. -

Same here daughter dropped my deck and right button ripped from the board would really like to replace the board ASAP

Tom Just -

I fixed the micro switch myself, see my comment hope it helps: Steam Deck Right Button Board Replacement

Shane Qi -

When is this part going to be available to purchase? It's ridiculous that people have been asking the same question for months without any response at all

Jake Guest -

Installing these boards in the Steam Deck requires special calibration that isn't currently publicly available. As of right now we don't know if/when these could be available for purchase.

Carsten Frauenheim -

If you are here because the L1/R1 micro switch is broken, you can replace just the micro switch. I've done it recently:

1. the micro switch I used was the sync/pair button of the Xbox controller, and it works just fine (iFixit sells the Xbox controller motherboard for $15 each)

2. later, I found the micro switch's model number: "TL3340AF160QG" (<$1 each)

3. I used a soldering iron to install it. It's not easy, but DIY-able. I have very little soldering experience, and I fixed it myself.

4. If you use hot air, don't blow directly on the plastic part of the micro switch because it could easily melt.

Here is the thread where I documented this project: https://mastodon.social/@shaneqi/1100088...

Shane Qi -

This only works if the solder pads don't rip off. I think a lot of us have broken pads and need alternate points of contact

Christian McCarthy -

@christianm74231 good point. In that case, we'd still need to wait for the board to be available, or RMA the deck.

Shane Qi -

I don’t suggest others do this, but this is what I did to “fix” my 512 GB deck:

All I had to do was buy a brand new 64 GB Steam Deck and I swapped DBs … The only problem (besides the fact that I had just paid $400 for a new Steam Deck when I only needed the DB) was that the L and R DB were connected by a different number of ribbon cables. My 512 GB Deck had one ribbon cable connecting the L and R DB together whereas the 64 GB Deck had two smaller ribbon cables, so I couldn’t just swap out the one side. Once I swapped both DBs and cables and put it all together, the shoulder buttons worked, but the trackpads could no longer detect pressure, so I couldn’t “click” with them. It wasn’t a huge loss though because I could still use Steam+LT/RT to perform mouse clicks.

Christian McCarthy - 09/04/23

Ewww, that's rough honestly seems like an extremely cringe time, AkA " Headache central. "

Hope the best buddy! Things will get better they always do maybe not as fast as we want them too but things WILL GET BETTER I promise!

sgtkickazzttv -

I would also like to know if this part will be restocked again.

Angad -

Will the right button board be restocked?

Angad -

I need THIS PART when will it be available as much trust as I have with Valve Inc. I STILL DONT TRUST ENOUGH TO SEND MY DEVICE FOR REPAIRS ESPECIALLY, when I can repair myself VERY EASLIY, especially since I am extremely electronically inclined THANK GOD! I couldn't imagine being dumb founded working on electronic devices like these.

sgtkickazzttv -

I need.
Valve false claiming water damage so wont repair the bumper tactile button which came loose.

Michael -

A lot of Steam Decks are now past warranty. When will this part be available?

rhomagus.asclepiot -

Parroting x2, when will this piece be available to the public?

chesii -

adding another comment in support - need this button board replaced!

natemate -

jeez.... also need same part.. this is a depressing comment thread.

David Mullen -

I need a Right Button Board. When will it be available?

Chadathan inta -

Bumping like every one else. Any updates on availability for the right daughter board? ZIF connector doesn't want to seat properly so I can no longer use the start button. All I need is the right-hand daughter board (Rev G for the 512GB).

ZW7 -

ZW7,

Unfortunately, the Steam Deck button boards require Valve's special calibration software that still isn't publicly available. We still don't know if/when the boards could be available for purchase.

Carsten Frauenheim -

When will this part be available? Need one. Steam won’t repair mine unless I pay some ridiculous amount.

Collin -

This is honestly really disappointing from Valve. Most Steam Decks are way past their warranty periods and this part should've been made available from day one! I know they have more important things to take care of but then why promise when you can't deliver? I'm hoping this will be made available soon.

Abubakar -