Nintendo Switch OLED Model Screen OLED Assembly Replacement

Written By: Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

Comments: 5

Nintendo Switch OLED Model Screen OLED Assembly Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

Use this guide to replace the screen OLED assembly in your Nintendo Switch OLED.

The assembly includes the frame with the OLED panel and speakers attached to it. If you're replacing the OLED panel by itself, follow this guide instead.

For your safety, discharge the battery below 25% before disassembling your Switch. This reduces the risk of fire if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

The Switch OLED uses JIS screws, but you can use a Phillips screwdriver in a pinch. Be very careful not to strip the screws. iFixit's Phillips bits are designed to be cross-compatible with JIS-style screws.

Note: When you remove the shield plate, you’ll need to replace the thermal compound between the plate and the heatsink. Since normal thermal paste isn’t designed to bridge large gaps, the closest replacement is K5 Pro viscous thermal paste. You will, however, need regular replacement thermal paste when replacing the heat sink.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Before you begin this repair, make sure the device is completely powered off.
Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller.
While you hold down the button, slide the controller upward.

Step 2

Continue sliding the Joy Con upward until it's completely removed from the console.
Repeat this same process for the other Joy Con.

Step 3

Use a Phillips driver, or a JIS driver, to remove the 2 mm-long screw securing the top of the rear case to the frame.
To prevent these tight screws from stripping, apply firm downward force, work slowly, and try another JIS or Phillips driver if the screws won't come out.

Step 4

Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 2 mm-long screws securing the bottom of the rear case to the frame.

Step 5

Use a Phillips driver to remove the 3.8 mm screw securing the right Joy-Con sensor rail to the rear case.
To prevent these tight screws from stripping, apply firm downward force, work slowly and try another JIS 000 or PH 000 driver if the screws won't come out.

Step 6

Use a Phillips driver to remove the 3.8 mm screw securing the left Joy-Con sensor rail to the rear case.

Step 7

Use your finger to flip up the kickstand on the back of the device.
If there's a microSD card in the microSD card slot, remove it now before you continue to the next step.

Step 8

Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the two 4.3 mm screws securing the rear case to the frame.

Before the next step remove any game cards in the console

Zach -

Step 9

Lift the rear case up from the top of the device and remove it.
If you're having trouble removing the case, use an opening pick to pry up the plastic clips.

Just a heads up that, even after removing the screws, the rear plate is still heavily clipped in place. I recommend using an opening pick or opening tool to carefully pry it up starting at the top and working your way down the sides. Once you get to the bottom, the speaker grilles are a little tricky. They're attached to the rear plate, but they can get stuck easily as you're removing the back plate.

Craig Lloyd -

Step 10

Use the flat end of a spudger to separate a corner of the tape from the shield plate.

Don't remove the antenna tape or the wires from the tape! The antennae can come off with the large metal shield plate anyways, so why remove them separately?? Extra UNNECESSARY WORK!! Just unscrew the antennae modules themselves, and pop out the antenna wires from the mainboard. Then they will lift with the large metal plate. (Steps 10, 11, 15, 16 are unnecessary, just remove the screws only that hold them down)

hubbabubbahubbabubba9 - 14/06/23

Step 11

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to peel back and remove the tape.
Store the tape in a clean space for reinstallation.

Step 12

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to pull up and disconnect the primary Wi-Fi antenna's coaxial cable.
During reassembly, these can be tricky to reconnect. One at a time, hold each connector in place over its socket and press down with the flat end of a spudger. The connector should snap into place.

Step 13

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to reroute the primary antenna's coaxial cable out of its slots in the shield plate.

Step 14

Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 4.4 mm screws securing the primary Wi-Fi antenna to the shield plate.

Step 15

Insert an opening pick between the primary Wi-Fi antenna and the shield plate.
Pry up with the pick to separate the primary Wi-Fi antenna from the shield plate.

Step 16

Remove the primary Wi-Fi antenna.

Step 17

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to pull up and disconnect the secondary Wi-Fi antenna's coaxial cable.

Step 18

Use the point of a spudger to reroute the secondary Wi-Fi antenna's coaxial cable from its slot in the frame.

Step 19

Use a Phillips driver to remove the 4.4 mm screw securing the secondary Wi-Fi antenna to the shield plate.

Step 20

Insert an opening pick between the secondary Wi-Fi antenna and the shield plate.
Pry up with the pick to separate the secondary Wi-Fi antenna from the shield plate.
Don't attempt to completely remove the antenna yet, as its coaxial cable is still routed through the frame.

Step 21

Use the point of a spudger to reroute the secondary Wi-Fi antenna's coaxial cable out of its slot in the frame.
Remove the secondary Wi-Fi antenna.

Step 22

Use a Phillips driver to remove the six 4.4 mm screws securing the shield plate to the frame.

Step 23

Use your fingers to lift the top of the shield plate up and away from the frame.
You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.
Remove the shield plate.
A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. Whenever the shield plate is removed, refer to our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate compound, such as K5 Pro, during reassembly.

Step 24

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery.

Step 25

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the piece of tape obscuring the daughterboard's screw.

Step 26

Use a Phillips driver to remove the 4 mm screw securing the daughterboard to the frame.

Step 27

The bottom of the daughterboard is connected to the motherboard via a press connector.
Insert a spudger between the edge of the daughterboard and the motherboard.
Pry up with the spudger to disconnect the press connector and separate the daughterboard from the frame.
Remove the daughterboard.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Step 28

Use a Phillips driver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.

Step 29

Insert a spudger between the heat sink's bracket and the motherboard.
Pry up with the spudger to separate the heat sink from the motherboard.
You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste.

Step 30

Insert a spudger in the gap between the fan and the heat sink.
Pry up with the spudger to separate the heat sink from the adhesive beneath it.
Remove the heat sink.
Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the CPU before reassembly.

The section near the fan is pretty difficult to remove, since it's adhered to the case and there's no good way to get your spudger underneath it, even by inserting it between the fan and the heat sink. Be very gentle and work patiently. It's really easy to bend the heat sink and the fins.

Craig Lloyd -

Step 31

Use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable's ZIF connector.

Step 32

Use a pair of tweezers to pull the fan cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

Step 33

Use a Phillips driver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the fan to the frame.

Step 34

Use a spudger to lift the fan out straight out of the frame.
Remove the fan.

Step 35

Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the power button board's ZIF connector.

Step 36

Use a pair of tweezers to pull the power button board cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

Step 37

Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the right Joy-Con sensor rail's ZIF connector.

Step 38

Use a pair of tweezers to pull the right Joy-Con sensor rail's cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

Step 39

Remove the right Joy-Con sensor rail.

Step 40

Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the hinged locking flap on the display's ZIF connector.

Step 41

Use a pair of tweezers to pull the display cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

Step 42

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to pull the left speaker's JST connector out of its socket.

Step 43

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to pull the right speaker's JST connector out of its socket.

Step 44

Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the right Joy-Con sensor rail's ZIF connector.

Step 45

Use a pair of tweezers to pull the right Joy-Con sensor rail's cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

Step 46

Use a Phillips driver to remove the five screws securing the midframe to the frame:
Three 3 mm screws
Two 4.4 mm screws

Step 47

Insert a spudger between the motherboard and the frame.
Pry up with the spudger to separate the motherboard from the frame.
Remove the motherboard.

Step 48

Use your fingers to gently peel back the left Joy-Con sensor rail's cable from the frame.

Step 49

Use a Phillips driver to remove the 3.8 mm screw securing the left Joy-Con sensor rail to the frame.

Step 50

Remove the left Joy-Con sensor rail.

Step 51

Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 3 mm screws securing the bottom rail to the frame.

good instructions but my bottom rail came without rubber feet which I found very disappointing. Is there anywhere I could buy a rail with the rubber feet already on their, if not thanks anyways.

Braddock Baker -

Step 52

Remove the bottom rail.

Step 53

Use your fingers to gently peel back the power board button's cable from the frame.

Step 54

Use your fingers to pull the power button board out from its plastic slots in the frame.
Remove the power button board.

Step 55

Apply a few drops of adhesive remover or high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol inside the battery well along the top edge to weaken the adhesive.
If you are using adhesive remover, follow these preparation steps first.

Step 56

Tilt the top edge of the device upward to allow the isopropyl alcohol to work its way underneath the battery.
Hold for 1-2 minutes to allow time for the isopropyl alcohol to weaken the adhesive.

Step 57

Insert an opening pick into the gap between the battery and the wall of the battery well.
Carefully dig the tip of the opening pick underneath the battery and slide it along the edge to begin slicing the adhesive.
Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with your tool—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.

Step 58

Leave the opening pick in place and apply a few more drops of adhesive remover or isopropyl alcohol inside the battery well.
Tilt the top edge of the device upward and wait 1-2 minutes for the isopropyl alcohol to weaken the adhesive.

Step 59

Continue sliding the opening pick deeper along the top edge of the battery, slicing more of the adhesive underneath.

Step 60

Once there's enough room, insert a plastic card underneath the battery and slowly pry the battery up.
Apply more isopropyl alcohol if you have difficulty prying.
Be careful not to bend the battery as you pry.

Step 61

Pry up with the plastic card to completely separate the battery's adhesive.
Remove the battery.
Use adhesive remover or isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth to clean up any remaining adhesive left behind in the battery well before you install the new battery.
If your new battery does not come with pre-installed adhesive, follow this guide to install pre-cut adhesive on the bottom of the battery.
Do not reuse the battery after it has been removed, as doing so is a potential safety hazard. Replace it with a new battery.

Step 62

You're now left with the Screen OLED Assembly.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery after completing this guide.

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Nintendo Switch OLED Answers community for help.

Author

Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

Member since: 16/01/22

117875 Reputation

Nintendo Switch OLED Model Screen OLED Assembly Replacement

Introduction

Tools

Parts

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