Introduction
Follow this guide to replace a faulty motherboard in the Nintendo Switch game console.
The Switch uses JIS screws, but you can use a Phillips screwdriver in a pinch. Be very careful not to strip the screws. iFixit's Phillips bits are designed to be cross-compatible with JIS-style screws.
Note: When you remove the shield plate, you’ll need to replace the thermal compound between the plate and the heatsink. Since normal thermal paste isn’t designed to bridge large gaps, the closest replacement is K5 Pro viscous thermal paste. You will, however, need regular replacement thermal paste for the CPU.
Note: There are two different models for the Nintendo Switch (model HAC-001, released in 2017, and model HAC-001(-01), released in 2019). Make sure your replacement motherboard is compatible with your specific Switch console.
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Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller.
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While you hold down the button, slide the controller upward.
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Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following screws securing the rear panel:
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One 2.5 mm-long screw on the top edge of the device
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Two 2.5 mm-long screws on the bottom edge of the device
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Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side).
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Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 1.6 mm screw in the kickstand well.
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Close the kickstand.
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Open the game card cartridge flap.
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Lift the rear panel up from the bottom of the device and remove it.
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Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 3.1 mm screw securing the microSD card reader to the device.
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Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to lift the microSD card reader straight up from the device to disconnect and remove it.
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Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the six 3 mm screws securing the shield plate to the device.
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Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to peel back the piece of foam on the top edge of the device near the fan exhaust port.
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Insert a spudger underneath the shield plate along the edge of the device.
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Pry up to lift the shield plate and remove it from the device.
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You can reuse the pink thermal compound if you're careful. Keep the compound clean and make sure it makes solid contact between the heat sink and the shield during reassembly.
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If you need to replace it, refer to our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate compound, such as K5 Pro, during reassembly.
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Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.
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Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.
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Carefully peel the two foam pieces stuck over both the heatsink and the fan away from the fan.
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Insert the point of a spudger underneath the part of the foam that isn't stuck against anything,
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Press the top of the foam with your finger to hold it in place.
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Roll the spudger tip underneath the foam all the way to the other end of the foam to release it.
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Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off the motherboard to remove it.
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Apply thermal paste to all surfaces that had thermal paste applied previously. This includes between the heatpipe and aluminum shield, which the Switch uses as additional heatsinking.
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Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable's ZIF connector.
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Use a pair of tweezers to slide the digitizer cable horizontally out of its connector on the game card reader board.
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Use the point of a spudger to pry the headphone jack and game card reader connector straight up to disconnect it from the motherboard.
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Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 3.1 mm screws securing the headphone jack and game card reader board to the device.
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Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack and game card reader board.
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Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.
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Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.
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Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable ZIF connector.
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Use a pair of tweezers to pull the fan cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.
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Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the power and volume button ribbon cable ZIF connector.
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Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.
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Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the smaller LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.
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Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.
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Use the point of a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the Joy Con sensor rail's data cable ZIF connector.
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Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.
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Use the point of a spudger to pry up the black antenna cable straight up out of its socket on the motherboard.
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Use the point of a spudger to pry up the white antenna cable straight up out of its socket on the motherboard.
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Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to pull the right speaker connector straight out of its socket on the motherboard.
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Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to pull the left speaker connector straight out of its socket on the motherboard.
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Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the Joy Con sensor rail data cable ZIF connector.
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Use a pair of tweezers to slide the Joy Con rail data cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.
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Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following screws:
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Four 2.5 mm screws
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Two 3.1 mm screws
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Insert a spudger into a gap between the motherboard and the frame.
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Carefully lift up the motherboard and remove it from the frame.
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Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Nintendo Switch Answers community for help.
18 comments
Great guide! Thank you. Just one problem: Where the !&&* can I buy a replacement?
Rob -
You can buy one on the ifixit parts store or you can find a used one on eBay.
What’s the name of the grey compound you insert on the cooper section on the motherboard? I’ve been wondering what that stuff is.
That is thermal compound or commonly known as thermal paste. It improves performance of parts by bridging the gaps between the CPU and heat pipes.
If you get a used motherboard is there any issues with login credentials? I assume the system memory and everything is located on this motherboard?
nrb_o_21 -
It depends if it was formatted or not, i guess.
Yes, the credentials is on the internal storage of the motherboard, Usually, the seller will remove accounts, or do a system restore, before selling it. If you ever come across an issue where it has a parental control pin (which prevents a system restore), there’s a parental controls pin reset option on Nintendo’s website. If you pay them 50 cents, and provide the serial number and confirmation or inquiry number of the used board (or system), they will give you a master key that you’ll need to remove the parental control, so you can do the factory reset.
Kann ich diese Anleitung auch für die OLED anwenden? Habe im INet sonst leider nichts brauchbares gefunden.
Ina Barz -