Nintendo Switch Lite LCD Replacement

Written By: Craig Lloyd

Comments: 87

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

45 minutes - 2 hours

Introduction

Follow this guide to replace a faulty or damaged LCD on the Nintendo Switch Lite.

The Switch Lite uses JIS screws, but you can use a Phillips screwdriver in a pinch. Be very careful not to strip the screws. iFixit's Phillips bits are designed to be cross-compatible with JIS-style screws.

Note: This guide is for the LCD only. If you're replacing the screen (the LCD attached to the digitizer) follow this guide. If the display glass is cracked or shattered, but the LCD still works, you’ll need to replace the digitizer instead.

Note: Removing the joysticks and buttons isn’t required, but it makes this repair much easier.

Note: This procedure requires removing the shield plate and heat sink. The thermal paste will need to be cleaned off of both components—as well as the CPU—and reapplied before reinstalling the shield plate and heat sink.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Before beginning this repair, make sure that the device is completely turned off.
Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the back panel.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

All my screws got stripped any ideas on how to remove?

Almost A Mammal -

A Y0 screwdriver seemed to work better for me.

Tommy Morrill -

What type of screw driver do I use to un screw the screws and which way

Luca Capito -

Y 0.6 was all I had but it seemed to fit perfectly

Trevor -

Step 2

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following screws securing the back panel:
Two 3.6 mm-long screws on the top of the device
Two 3.6 mm-long screws on the bottom of the device
To prevent these tight screws from stripping, apply firm downward force, work slowly and try a different screwdriver if the screws won't come out.

I accidentally stripped the back screw and now I can't open it. I removed all the other screws. What should I do?

tiggytiger555 -

Step 3

Insert an opening tool into the left speaker grille on the bottom of the device.
Twist the opening tool to release the clips securing the back panel.
Avoid inserting the opening tool further than required to prevent damage to the speaker module.

Step 4

Slide the opening tool around the bottom-left corner to release the clips on the left side of the device.

Step 5

Insert an opening tool into the right speaker grille on the bottom of the device.
Twist the opening tool to release the clips.
Avoid inserting the opening tool further than required to prevent damage to the speaker module.

Step 6

Slide and pry the opening tool around the bottom-right corner to release the clips on the right side of the device.

Step 7

Continue sliding and prying the opening tool along the gap on the top of the device to release the clips.

Step 8

Lift the bottom edge of the back panel, opening it like a book.
Remove the back panel.

Step 9

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following four screws:
Three 3.1 mm screws
One 4.5 mm screw

There are four screws instead of three mentioned

Khurram Chaudry -

it doesnt mention 3 anywhere, and it labels all four

Ezi -

With how easy it seems to be to do serious damage with the next few steps, I figured I'd say that realistically you can skip steps 9-13 when doing this repair. While they provide a bit of extra security by disconnecting the battery, the left stick is completely accessible and replaceable without touching the heat shield or anything underneath (And steps 17 and 18 disconnect power from the daughter board regardless).

Nate -

i stripped a &&^&^$^ screw

SpongebobFan254 -

Well I actually removed the screw right next to the 4.5 screw. I did not realize it till my son showed me why the plate wouldn't release. Ha ha, it's funny now but yeah not a big deal. I could have bent it badly assuming I took all screws out though. For anyone reading this before going in. 👍

Toastninja -

Step 10

Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the shield plate up and out of the device.
You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.
Remove the shield plate.
Clean off the old thermal paste from the shield plate and heat sink using isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the heat sink before reassembly.

You may need to replace the thermal paste on the heat sink.

ahoz28 -

Step 11

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the motherboard interconnect cable's ZIF connector.

The clip broke off when trying to remove this cable. Audio only works through headphones and the display now won’t turn on after the clip broke. Does anyone know where I could get a clip or how I could fix it without it?

Alexz Zepeda -

Mi è successa la stessa cosa è non so come ripararla! Chissà se c’è un modo!

Paolo De Falco -

Step 12

Do Not Use Metal Tweezers! Some fixers state that metallic tweezers can short circuit the ribbon cable/connector. It might be safer to just use nylon-tipped or ceramic-tipped tweezers.
Use a pair of tweezers to slide the interconnect cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

I turned the unit off beforehand, I used tweezers just like the instructions said (ifixit branded) , my device sparked and now it won’t turn back on

User Service -

The flap came off is it important or is there a way t fix it?

Jose Cruz R Rangel Cordero -

We're you able to get it working without the white flap? My screen is not working after putting it back together and i noticed this white flap was falling off

Jimmy “Ghost” Trost -

Did you get it working without the white flap? Everything on the switch works fine except for audio going through headphones and the display not turning on.

Alexz Zepeda -

do not use metal sharp pointed tweezers! you will rip your ribbon cable. Use the inside of a Bic type pen or something else dull and plastic to pull the cable away by putting the pen part where the first bend is.

Christopher Bales (C.J.) -

Anyone figure out how to fix this? my device shorted in this step.

Acord -

Step 13

Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.

Caution the connector may not be properly soldered onto the motherboard. For me it snapped off the pins and now have to find a place to get that fixed if even possible. may have bricked it.

Craig Osman - 30/01/21

Yup, broke the connector right off the motherboard. Thanks, ifixit -_-

Justin Kerr - 14/04/21

I backed out when I reached this point. I couldn't risk damaging it. Do u just need to pull it up? Did you mean that it might have been soldered shut below?

Jannalyzer -

You should just need to pull straight up, but make sure you’re pulling on the wires or the gray plug—do not pull on the black socket or it can snap off of the motherboard.

Adam O'Camb -

I pulled straight up from the south side on under 2 or three wires and held down the device as I pulled and the gray connector disconnected from the black connector on the Switch. Just be careful at this part.

Jon -

With how easy it seems to be to do serious damage at this point, I figured I'd say that realistically you can skip steps 9-13 when doing this repair. While they provide a bit of extra security by disconnecting the battery, the left stick is completely accessible and replaceable without touching the heat shield or anything underneath (And steps 17 and 18 disconnect power from the daughter board regardless).

Nate -

just broke my connector... ifixit PLEASE put a warning on how fragile the solder on this connector is.

Nate Mascis -

Note for this step, you do not need to apply a lot of force. I used two tools here: small screwdriver to hold down the black base, and one side of fine-tipped tweezers to get under all 3 wires. Gently, push down on the tweezers to push the wires upwards, which should force the gray connector up and off the base. It did not take a lot of force. Take your time and it will be fine. Again, like others have said, do NOT pull or pry up the black base.

Christopher Gillett - 23/09/23

Step 14

Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingers to carefully peel up the foam that's lightly adhered to the fan.
The foam only needs to be peeled back enough to clear the fan.

When reassembling, the foam may fold down between the fan and heatsink, blocking airflow. Gently lift the foam back up on top of the fan. The adhesive film should hold the foam together.

Kean Stump - 25/12/20

Is removing the heat sink absolutely necessary?

Clark Aulden - 15/04/21

It’s not necessary, but it makes it much easier to remove and replace the game card reader, since the heat sink partially covers the connector.

Craig Lloyd - 16/04/21

Not really…….. I never remove it. It slides out quite easily once disconnected.

Alan Sears -

What do you do if these screws are stripped? They strip easily

Whatever -

Step 15

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.

Non le tre ventole ma le tre viti

Cristiano Minchillo -

Grazie per avercelo segnalato! Ho apportato la modifica. iFixit è una wiki, quindi ogni utente può modificare le pagine: se trovi altri errori in futuro, sentiti libero di fare la modifica tu stesso!

Sara Balestra -

Step 16

Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off of the motherboard to remove it.
You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste.
Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the CPU before reassembly.

16.5 remove cartridge / headphones jack……….

Calvin Martin -

I've read that there are different ways to apply thermal paste, which should I use?

Kai B -

My kit did not come with thermal paste..

Bryan Donovan -

Step 17

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the game card reader cable's ZIF connector.

Step 18

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the seven 3.1 mm screws securing the game card reader and headphone jack.

Step 19

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to carefully lift the game card reader and maneuver it to the left to slide the cable out of its connector.
Remove the game card reader and headphone jack.

Step 20

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 4.5 mm screws securing the right trigger button assembly to the motherboard.

I think a whole step to remove the game card reader and speaker jack was skipped here…

ConfusedAzn Random -

yes, just found that sadly these comments do not show unless we click on the , which is unhelpful

Micheal speed -

also, you need to remove the left trigger button

Micheal speed -

Step 21

Remove the right trigger button assembly.

Step 22

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the right trigger button assembly's rubber pad if it didn't stay attached to the button assembly.

Step 23

Use the point of a spudger to pry the black antenna cable straight up out of its socket on the motherboard.
Repeat the same process for the white antenna cable.

Step 24

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable's ZIF connector.

Step 25

Use a pair of tweezers to slide out the fan cable from its connector on the motherboard.

There’s a step missing after this to remove the screws that hold the orange game cartridge slot. Those 7 screws have to be undone and the ribbon unclipped first before moving on to the next step.

Heather Thrasher -

Good Looking out!

Joshua Hinchey -

Step 26

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the screen cable's ZIF connector.

skipped a step or two about removing the golden piece in the photo above, and the other little board

Eddy Whitaker -

If I broke the clasp on the ZIF connector can I elec tape it down?

kevin miller -

What did you do to fix it if the ZIF connector broke?? Mine did too and I worry that is why the screen won’t turn on now

Amber Smith -

Missing the card reader + audio jack board removal. Just remove the 4 screws around the audio jack + 3 screws around the card reader and disconnect the ZIF connector from the motherboard.

Guillaume Turchini -

Step 27

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the screen cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

Step 28

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable's ZIF connector.

Can I electrical tape this down if I broke the clasp?

kevin miller -

Step 29

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the digitizer cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

Step 30

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the right joystick cable's ZIF connector.

Step 31

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the right joystick cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

Step 32

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following six screws securing the motherboard:
Three 3.1 mm screws
Three 4.5 mm screws

how to get the c port off

Dustin Cronk -

When re-assembling, be sure the fan cable (step 25) is completely pulled through prior to tightening the screw that’s right next to it.

John Glaeser -

Step 33

Insert a spudger in the gap between the frame and the motherboard and lift the motherboard up and out of its recess.
Remove the motherboard assembly.

Step 34

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the joystick.

Step 35

Use your fingers to remove the joystick.
There is a thin black gasket around the hole where the joystick pokes through the frame. Try not to disturb this gasket as you remove the joystick.

Where are parts for the right joystick?

John - 28/02/21

Step 36

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to pull the left speaker cable straight up and out of its socket on the daughterboard.
Do not pull from the wires, or else you risk ripping the wires off the connector.

pulled from the connector, not the wires, and ended up ripping them off the connector anyways since it encountered tension from the other end (the gray chamber on the left)

consider doing step 15 before pulling the wire, just in case.

Phillipe Legenda - 01/02/21

Why even disconnect this cable. Not worth the risk leave it connected to daughter board.

Michael McNally -

while doing this I ripped the pad on the circuit board off. Should i risk trying to repair it or should i just try to go without the speaker???

sarah.carney203 -

I also accidentally ripped off the connector, disabling the left speaker. However, that will not break any functionality of the switch. The right speaker works just fine on its own (just remember to turn the audio to mono in system settings) and I was successfully able to replace the joystick. Although the audio quality is a little bit depleted, you barely notice it if you turn up the volume a little, and I think being able to actually MOVE FORWARD in my games is a better plus than having louder, stereo, audio.

Jonathan Maye -

Went to pull the speaker connector and it pulled right off the motherboard. Would not come loose.

putnamjerome4 -

I'm gonna echo what others said here and suggest that you skip this step. After you complete Step 15, you can just move the speakers enough with your fingers to complete Step 26, which involves a screw half underneath it.

Regarding the ribbon cable in Step 17 & Step 18, you can honestly use your fingers if they're small enough. The ribbon cable is wide enough for you to press down on it a little and slide it out bit by bit.

Overall, this makes the disassembly and eventual reassembly process easier and lets you avoid running the risk of damaging or completely tearing out the wires, like I almost did.

ThatDerpGuy -

I too tore the connector off the board. I didn't read the comments first :(. Take the advise and leave the connection

Bob -

Removing the screw from 37 is enough to give you space to remove the board, I honestly think you shouldn't try to remove this connector.

Romaric Dgp -

Unfortunately, I had to reinstall multiple daughterboards on the same Switch Lite. I strongly recommend orienting your straight tweezers with ridges (like the ones in the picture) perpendicular to the device. Grab the plastic connector with the tip of the tweezers from the top. It makes inserting and removing this connection significantly easier.

Albino Digits -

Step 37

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 4.5 mm screw securing the left speaker module.

Step 38

Use your fingers to lift the speaker module up and out of its recess to remove it.
Part of the speaker module sits underneath a delicate ribbon cable. Take care not to snag the speaker module on the cable as you remove it.

Pulling the lower screw on the speaker assembly gave me a little more wiggle room to get it out without damaging the flat cable.

Spacer - 18/02/21

Step 39

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the motherboard interconnect cable's ZIF connector.

Step 40

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the motherboard interconnect cable out of its connector on the daughterboard.

Reconnecting this part was touchy. After initial reassembly, the Switch did not power on. Even though this looked like it was correctly connected, pulling it out and reconnecting it solved the problem.

John -

Step 41

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flaps on the two ribbon cable ZIF connectors.

Step 42

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the daughterboard screen cable out of its connector on the motherboard.
Repeat this procedure for the volume buttons cable.

Step 43

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the volume buttons.

Step 44

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the left joystick cable's ZIF connector.

Step 45

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the left joystick cable out of its connector on the daughterboard.

The connector for my left joystick broke. Is there a way to fix it?

Christopher Shackelford - 11/05/21

How badly did it broke?

Daniele Carminati - 11/05/21

Step 46

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 4.5 mm screws securing the left trigger button assembly.

Step 47

Remove the left trigger button assembly.

Step 48

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following four screws:
Two 4.5 mm screws
Two 6 mm screws

The two 4.5 mm screws were very difficult to remove here and ended up getting stripped. I CANNOT remove them, help!

Sara Rouse- Barker -

Step 49

Use your fingers to lift the daughterboard up and out of its recess to remove it.

Stop here if repairing Switch Lite for joycon drift. After removing daughter card you can see the bottom of the joystick. This thin metal actually bends during use causing bad connection of joystick. If you cut out a business card the same size as the joycon and put it on the bottom of the joystick it gives the metal enough backing to fix the issue. I used two layers with just a small bit of glue stick to adhere it. Put it all back together and you will find your issue is fixed.

Michael McNally -

Step 50

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the left joystick.

Step 51

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the joystick up and out of its recess.
Use your fingers to remove the joystick.
There is a thin black gasket around the hole where the joystick pokes through the frame. Try not to disturb this gasket as you remove the joystick.

During reassembly when putting the screws back in, slowly turn them CCW until you feel it drop into its thread. You will never crossthread them by doing this.

Robert Hale -

Step 52

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following four screws:
Three 2.5 mm screws
One 6 mm screw

Be careful not to get the upper far-left screw stuck on the digitizer cable.

Hayden - 07/11/21

Step 53

Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the midframe assembly up and out of its recess.
Remove the midframe assembly.

Step 54

At this point in the repair, remove all of the buttons if you haven't done so already, to prevent them from falling out and getting lost.
Use these two photos for reference.

Step 55

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the back side of the LCD along the top edge for 2 minutes.
A hair dryer or heat gun may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the LCD if you plan on reusing it, as it's susceptible to heat damage.

Step 56

Insert an opening pick between the frame and the top edge of the LCD to begin separating the two components.
Make sure to insert the pick completely under the LCD panel so you don't split and damage it.
You'll know you're splitting the panel if the silver backing bubbles and separates from the white lining.

Step 57

Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the LCD to slice the adhesive.

Step 58

Apply a heated iOpener to the back side of the LCD along the right edge for 2 minutes.

Step 59

Continue sliding the opening pick around the right edge of the LCD, slicing the adhesive.
The LCD and digitizer cables are placed in a way to prevent them from easily snagging on the opening pick, but still use caution when sliding the opening pick along the gap.

저부분 들어올릴때 정말정말 약하니 점착제를 자르고 열을 가하며 천천히 들어 올려야함

정광재 -

Step 60

Apply a heated iOpener to the back side of the LCD along the bottom edge for 2 minutes.

Step 61

Continue sliding the opening pick along the bottom edge of the LCD to slice the adhesive.
You'll need to remove and reinsert the opening pick at various points along the LCD's edge to work around the frame.

Step 62

Apply a heated iOpener to the back side of the LCD along the left edge for 2 minutes.

Step 63

Continue sliding the opening pick along the left edge of the LCD to slice the adhesive.
Take care not to snag the LCD's daughterboard cable on the opening pick.

Step 64

Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingers to lift the LCD up and out of the frame to remove it.
If you're reusing the LCD (or your new LCD does not come with pre‑installed adhesive), follow this guide to install pre-cut adhesive around the perimeter before reassembly.

Step 65

If you're also replacing the digitizer, you can skip this step.
Use the flat end of a spudger to scrape off the remaining adhesive around the perimeter of the digitizer.
Prior to installing a new LCD, use isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth to clean and remove any residual adhesive from the back side of the digitizer. Wait several minutes for any remaining alcohol to evaporate before installing the LCD.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Nintendo Switch Lite Answers community for help.

Author

Craig Lloyd

Member since: 10/02/16

35240 Reputation

19 comments

Followed the guide to replaced a cracked screen on a Switch Lite, all good, guide was easy to follow and refitting wasn't too hard either, just a reversal of the disassembly

Luke Randall - 21/11/20

Fantastic guide, exactly what I was looking for! Unfortunately I managed to make the tape unusable and I need tape to connect the lcd to the digitizer and the digitizer to the case. I will likely use 2-3mm tape for the lcd to digitizer but I'm unsure what to use to connect the digitizer to the case. Any suggestions?

Sam Red - 23/01/21

Thanks for taking the time to type this up. Really appreciate the effort that went in to this guide.

Matthew D. H. - 12/02/21

Great guide, I wish it would mention some of the procedures to tape the screen back in. After that, reversing the process was easy.

Stephen Hotchkiss - 12/04/21

For gluing the screen and digitizer back in, I would strongly recommend liquid glue, like Zhanlida T-8000 for example. You can apply it very precisely and you can also correct/remove it if needed pretty easily. I used this stuff to repair around 200 phones and tablets in the last couple of years and were never disappointed.

Also I would remove the digitizer AND the screen together, before removing the screen first from the digitizer… This will make the process of removing the screen from the digitizer a lot easier and safer.

I have ordered a crystal replacement case and a used lite with a scratched digitizer.. Have glued in the replacement digitizer so far, the console should arrive tomorrow.

Gluing in the digitizer was a breeze, just applied some glue all around (be careful not to use too much) and then just pressed down the digitizer all around and put a book on the top… Let the glue harden for around 24 hours and you are good to go.

Will leave some feedback how the screen removal went tomorrow. ;)

mathiasludewig - 02/06/21

Yeah.. The display was actually glued completely together with the digitizer! So not just only on the sides, but on the whole display with an UV reactive transparent glue, like with most smartphones nowadays…

This way this whole tutorial obsolete, because there is almost no way you can remove the digitizer from the display an vise versa…

Also my suggestion was totally right to remove the digitizer and display together.. The way it is shown here is absolutely over complicated.

Maybe the UV glue is used in a new revision ifixit wasn't aware of, but this has to be updated!!!

mathiasludewig - 03/06/21

So I Need to replace Just the glass over the screen but I cant find a replacement or a guide

Jack Hadad -

I just did this repair the other day. You would still need to follow this guide because of the ribbon cable you need to plug in. You just need to take the digitizer off in the end. I would buy an lcd just incase it breaks while trying to get it separated which there is a good chance that will happen.

Derek Osmulski -

I was wondering if 99% IPA could be an issue to a screen, I am definitely an amateur at this but originally I was going to replace the joysticks and wanted to clean the console.

In a moment of carelessness I spilled IPA on the midframe assembly and some on the side, which seeped to the screen. I had accidentally doused the screen with a relatively small amount of IPA but I dried off what I could and turned on the screen successfully but there was a light colored splotch on the screen. After a couple of days the splotch on the screen is much smaller but it doesn’t seem like it will go away, is this permanent damage? I am wondering if it is possible to clean or fix this, if I get under the screen is it possible to clean, fix it or do I need a new LCD?

Thank you for any guidance in advance.

Helios -

What about the outer screen part of the switch lite?

Daniel Bumgardner -

Just a heads up, steps 34, 35 and 50, 51 are uneccessary as the joysticks don't obstruct anything being removed in this repair. They can be left in. Just saves an extra couple of steps :)

Tom -

I bought the digitizer and screen all in one from IFIXIT and replaced the screen and now only the backlight comes on and the screen does post battery level or see anything on it other than backlight on. I can hear the buttons work and the touchscreen works. I tried the hold 15 seconds and restart with plugged in and power cable out, it did not work. Does anyone know what may have gone wrong, reseat the cables or do I need a another new screen?

Jose Tierra -

Excellent guide simple to follow and in the end an easy repair. Thank you

Derek Davies -

please don't follow this guide. I should've read the comments before attempting anything. Heat the front instead and remove the whole assembly. Couldn't get properly in between with the pick to slice the adhesive so the lcd cracked..

Alex Pyyaho -

Followed this guide and worked for me despite the difficulty in separating the digitizer from the LCD. I wonder how this can be avoided in the first place - my kids have 2 switch lites and both had the exact same LCD problem.

Emmet Tolentino -

I’ve been given a Switch Lite that powers on but there is no display. It sounds like all the controls and touch screen are working fine but there is clear signs of drop damage on the rear casing.

I have reseated the ribbon cable in step 27 but there is not the lower ribbon cable in step 42. It just isn’t there or underneath the daughterboard. What is this ribbon for?

J3llyf1sh -

I have discovered that the backlight is not working as I can see the OS if I shine a torch on the screen.

Any thoughts?

J3llyf1sh -

Found the backlight ribbon cable sandwiched between the glass and plastic casing!

Fully working!!!

J3llyf1sh -

Merci! Je n'avais jamais cait ce genre de truc avant et en suivant les étapes, j'ai réussi à réparer la switch de mon garçon. 😊 Ce guide est super bien fait, j'adore

Véronique Gagne -