Introduction

Use this guide to replace the logic board in your MacBook Pro 16" 2021.

Note that Touch ID will not function after replacing the logic board. The MacBook Pro’s original Touch ID sensor is uniquely paired to the logic board at the factory—and without Apple’s proprietary calibration process, even a genuine replacement Touch ID sensor from another MacBook Pro won’t work.

For your safety, discharge the battery below 25% before disassembling your MacBook. This reduces the risk of fire if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

  1. sAvCLYXqUkq3CpsT
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    • Completely power off and unplug your MacBook Pro before you start. Close the display and flip the entire laptop upside-down.

    • Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove eight screws securing the lower case:

    • Four 9.1 mm screws

    • Four 5 mm screws

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

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    • Press a suction handle into place near the front edge of the lower case, between the screw holes.

    • Pull up on the suction handle to create a small gap under the lower case.

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    • Insert an opening pick into the gap you just created.

    • Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and then halfway up the side of the MacBook Pro.

    • This releases the first of the hidden clips securing the lower case. You should feel and hear the clip pop free.

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    • Repeat the previous step on the other side, using an opening pick to to release the second clip.

    Terrifying, don't be afraid, give it a good pull, the description above is exactly right.

    Scott -

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    • Pull firmly to slide the lower case towards the front edge of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case.

    • Pull first at one corner, then the other.

    • Pull to the side—not up.

    • This may require a lot of force.

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    • Remove the lower case.

    • To reinstall the lower case:

    • Set it in place and align the sliding clips near the display hinge. Press down and slide the cover toward the hinge. It should stop sliding as the clips engage.

    • When the sliding clips are fully engaged and the lower case looks correctly aligned, press down firmly on the lower case to engage the four hidden clips underneath. You should feel and hear them snap into place.

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    • Peel back any tape covering the battery board data cable connector on the logic board.

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    • Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable.

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    • Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket on the logic board.

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    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.1 mm‑long screws securing the trackpad cable bracket to the logic board.

    Das sind T4 Schrauben bei mir

    Ralf Schäfer -

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    • Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the trackpad cable bracket.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the trackpad cable's press connector from the logic board.

    • To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

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    • The trackpad cable is lightly adhered to the frame.

    • Peel the trackpad cable away from the device, making sure to separate the adhesive.

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    • Peel back any tape covering the battery board data cable connector under the large pancake screw.

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    • Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable.

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    • Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket on the battery board.

    This is SO small - I used a very fine guitar pick to get it to release, none of my tools were small enough.

    Scott -

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    • The battery board data cable is lightly adhered to the device.

    • Slide blunt nose tweezers under areas with adhesive to separate the cable from the device.

    • Remove the battery board data cable.

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    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.9 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector.

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    • Use a spudger to lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery.

    • Lift the connector high enough to keep it separated from its socket while you work. If it accidentally makes contact, it could damage your MacBook Pro.

    is it possible to buy/replace this battery power connector? I broke mine on the logic board side and they are impossible to find. Ofc apple want $900 because the laptop is "modified" after replacing the keyboard :|

    Thenon -

  20. mMZ5rxjcvUWQkEXG
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    • Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the three 2.1 mm screws securing the antenna board bracket and coaxial cable cover to the frame.

  21. yhd2TYMiMHNLvVlq
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    • Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the cover on top of the antenna bar's coaxial cables.

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    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna bar's coaxial cable.

    • Repeat for the two other cables.

    • During reassembly, these can be tricky to reconnect. Hold each connector in place over its socket and press down with the flat end of a spudger. The connector should snap into place.

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    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the four 2.1 mm screws securing the display cable covers.

    It’s T4 not T5

    notears -

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    • Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the two display cable covers from the logic board.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the two right-most display cable press connectors secured to the logic board.

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    • Repeat the previous disconnection process for the remaining press connector.

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    • Peel back any tape covering the microphone cable connector.

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    • Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the microphone cable.

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    • Disconnect the microphone cable by sliding it out from its socket on the logic board.

  30. JYGqyudrDXCYyxNe
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    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the 11 screws securing the right cable covers to the frame:

    • Nine 2.1 mm screws

    • One 2 mm screw

    • One 3.5 mm screw

    They are all T4

    notears -

    They are T3 for me

    Macrepair SF -

  31. WRNwTIPxZrQcDWsi
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    • Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the five right cable covers.

  32. RXSFVSq5axNJ4IVa
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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the right speaker's press connector.

    this is the left speaker

    cleverlin -

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    • Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the headphone jack's press connector.

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    • Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the right USB-C ports' two press connectors.

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    • Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the MagSafe port's press connector.

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    • Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the lid angle sensor's press connector.

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    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the six screws securing the left cable covers to the frame:

    • Four 2.1 mm screws

    • One 2 mm screw

    • One 3.6 mm screw

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    • Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the three left cable covers.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the left speaker's press connector.

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    • Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the left USB-C port's press connector.

  41. mBBpD3W1LnhcXbne
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    • Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the Touch ID sensor's press connector.

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    • Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the two ZIF connectors for the keyboard cables.

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    • Disconnect the keyboard and keyboard backlight cables by sliding them out from their sockets on the logic board.

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    • Peel back any tape covering the right fan cable connector.

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    • Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the right fan cable.

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    • Disconnect the right fan cable by sliding it out from its socket on the logic board.

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    • The right fan cable is lightly adhered to the logic board.

    • Pull the fan cable away from the logic board with tweezers to separate the adhesive.

    • The fan cables are incredibly delicate and prone to tearing; use caution when bending them with tools.

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    • Repeat the previous disconnection and reposition procedure for the left fan cable.

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    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the ten screws securing the logic board to the frame:

    • Six 3.8 mm screws

    • Four 4.6 mm screws

    • Use a 4 mm Hex driver to remove the two 6 mm screws securing the logic board to the frame.

    • Use a T6 Torx driver to remove the two 6 mm screws securing the heat sink to the logic board and frame.

    The parts list for this step links to the wrong part on an external site. It threw me off and it took some investigation to determine that this kit has the appropriate 4mm hex bit that you need: Mako Driver Kit - 64 Precision Bits

    Justin B -

    Two green screws nearest hinges were 5/32"hex head on my machine, listed here as T6.

    MotorMac -

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    • Insert a spudger between the right side of the logic board and the frame.

    • Pry up with the spudger to release the logic board from its clips.

    No clips encountered on this A2485 logic board (thankfully), LB is very delicate.

    MotorMac -

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    • Insert a spudger between the bottom of the logic board and the frame.

    • Pry up with the spudger to release the logic board from its clips.

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    • Gently lift up the logic board by its right side to completely release the clips.

    • If it feels like it's not coming out, check that all the cables are disconnected.

    • Pull the logic board away from the left side of the device to separate the HDMI and SDXC ports from their slots in the frame.

    • Remove the logic board.

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    • When reinstalling the logic board, insert the left side first to reposition the HMDI and SDXC ports.

    • Use your fingers to slightly compress the HDMI port to fit it into its recess. Otherwise, the logic board won't sit correctly.

    • Make sure all of the connectors are above the logic board before securing it back into the frame.

    • If you're having trouble positioning the connectors, use tape to keep them out of the way.

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    • Turn the logic board upside-down so that the heat sink screws face upwards.

    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the four 3.9 mm screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.

    Step 52: On my logic board, these screws were T3? I've got it right here in my hand and the T5 doesn't fit these screws (and no, I do not still have the T6 from step 47, I checked).

    It is possibly a typo or an oversight, but I am unsure. If you are 100% sure they were T5 in your guide, I would edit to say something along the lines of "Some builds have T3 screws here instead." I do not have the permissions to edit that in myself.

    For reference, I'm on a model A2485 with EMC 3651. I do not want to post the serial because it is a client's device, but I can share it privately if necessary with the editor.

    Justin Castle -

  56. MPxINULhKcA5vBB2
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    • Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the heat sink brackets.

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    • Use your fingers to lift the logic board up and off of the heat sink.

    • You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the logic board with thermal paste.

    • Remove the heat sink.

    • A thick, grey thermal compound bridges the gap between the logic board and the heat sink underneath. Whenever the heat sink is removed, refer to our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate compound, such as Artic Silver Thermal Paste, during reassembly.

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    • You're now left with the logic board.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our MacBook Pro 16" 2021 Answers community for help.

Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

Member since: 16/01/22

117875 Reputation

3 comments

Thanks for the awesome guide! Very helpful.

Cero -

I understood that on these models the screen is paired with the original motherboard, has anyone had a display problem after replacing the motherboard?

Ludovic -

Excellent guide. thank you very much for putting this together.

Andy -