Introduction

Use this guide to replace the display assembly of your MacBook Pro 13" 2020.

For your safety, drain your MacBook Pro's battery below 25% charge before starting repairs.

Some photos in this guide are from a different model and may contain slight visual discrepancies, but they won't affect the guide procedure.

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    • Before starting this procedure, you should disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide to disable Auto Boot.

    • If your MacBook is running Big Sur v11.1 or later, disabling Auto Boot may not work. You can proceed normally, but make sure to disconnect the battery as soon as you're inside.

    • Completely power off and unplug your MacBook before you start. Close the display and flip the entire laptop upside-down.

    • Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove the six screws securing the lower case:

    • Two 6.8 mm screws

    • Two 5.3 mm screws

    • Two 3.4 mm screws

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

    I use a empty egg carton to place screws in in the order of removal from computer

    robert -

    That's a good idea Robert!

    Tom Kingsley -

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    • Apply a suction handle to the lower case near the front-center area of the MacBook Pro.

    • Lift the suction handle to create a slight separation between the lower case and the chassis.

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    • Insert one corner of an opening pick into the space between the lower case and the chassis.

    • Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and halfway up the side of the case.

    • This releases the first of the hidden clips securing the lower case to the chassis. You should feel and hear the clip pop free.

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    • Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, sliding your opening pick under the lower case and up the side to pop the second clip free.

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    • Insert your opening pick once again under the front edge of the lower case, near one of the two centermost screw holes.

    • Give the pick a firm twist to pop free the third clip securing the lower case to the chassis.

    • Repeat this procedure near the other of the two centermost screw holes, popping the fourth clip free.

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    • Pull the lower case firmly towards the front of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case.

    • It may help to pull first at one corner, then the other.

    • Pull to the side—not up.

    • This may require a lot of force.

    • The edges of the case can be sharp, so grip the sides carefully.

    Be mindful of finger placement as the inside edges of the case are very sharp and may cut you.

    Shane Samuelson -

    literally just cut myself

    Jaiden Daniel Arnett -

    I used the suction cup to pull/slide the lower case from the back clips

    Richard Dunn -

    This is probably the most difficult step. It doesn't come easily, you have to be careful but very firm and apply plenty of force. The edges are somewhat sharp, but I didn't cut myself. Just don't slide your fingers along the edges. I had the best luck orienting the computer in portrait (like the pictures) and pushing on the front right edge of the main chasis with my right hand fingers while pushing the opposite direction on the bottom lid with my left hand fingers (place your fingers right in the crack of the hinge).

    Hudson Gomez -

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    • Remove the lower case.

    • To reinstall the lower case:

    • Set it in place and align the sliding clips near the display hinge. Press down and slide the cover toward the hinge. It should stop sliding as the clips engage.

    • When the sliding clips are fully engaged and the lower case looks correctly aligned, press down firmly on the lower case to engage the four hidden clips underneath. You should feel and hear them snap into place.

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    • Carefully peel up the large piece of tape covering the battery connector, on the edge of the logic board nearest the battery.

    • Remove the tape.

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    • Gently peel back the small piece of tape covering the battery board data cable connector.

    • The tape is integrated into the ribbon cable and will not detach completely. Simply peel it back enough to access the connector.

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    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the small black locking tab securing the cable in its connector.

    • Locking tabs on ZIF connectors are fragile, so be gentle when using the tip of the spudger.

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    • Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket.

    • Slide parallel to the logic board, in the direction of the cable.

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    • Fold the battery board data cable back and out of the way.

    • If you're replacing your battery, you may need to completely remove and transfer this cable to your new battery. Disconnect both ends and carefully remove the cable. During installation, be careful not to install it upside-down or backwards—note the orientation in the photos.

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    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector.

    io ho trovato un Torx T4 invece del T5.

    Stefano Supino -

    Ciao Stefano! Grazie per il commento. Infatti c’è sempre una certa tolleranza fra il cacciavite e la testa delle viti. Quindi è possibile che un cacciavite più grande o più piccolo sia più “comodo” in certi casi. Buona riparazione!

    Claire Miesch -

    konnte diese Verbindung nicht lösen. Zu sehr angezogen

    Lang Werner -

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    • Use a spudger to gently lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery.

    • Lift the connector high enough so that it stays separated from its socket.

    • If it accidentally makes contact during the course of your repair, it could damage your MacBook Pro.

    Hello, I have damaged this connector and it is now loose with the logic board. It is possible to replace this connector?

    Thanks

    deejaygav -

    Please save yourself a pile of money and read this before doing this step: I bricked my MacBook by not being extremely careful and making sure to NOT touch the connector together as I took it apart. Ouch ouch ouch. 😫

    Hudson Gomez -

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    • Remove the four 3.3 mm T3 Torx screws securing the plastic covers on top of the display hinges.

    On what planet is this an A2289?

    You guys got a me reassembling customers computers with the WRONG parts, just hours before their reservation at the Genius Bar.

    Does anyone have AN ACTUAL PICTURE of an A2289 with the back cover off?

    rickcostel -

    I’m having a hard time figuring out which aluminum retainer cover goes where. I’m looking at step 27 where his fingerp is pointed and I don’t even have that part. The one I have is shaped like an “L“. In fact, that whole entire area looks completely different on mine.

    rickcostel -

    This step should say "Remove the hinge covers"

    Marc Jacobson -

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    • Remove both plastic hinge covers.

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    • Remove the two 3.1 mm T3 Torx screws securing the aluminum cover on top of the main display cable.

    • Remove the cover.

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    • Remove the two 1.7 mm T3 Torx screws securing the aluminum cover on top of the display cable flex connector.

    • Remove the cover.

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    • Pry the display board flex cable straight up from its socket to disconnect it from the display board.

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    • Remove the four 1.5 mm T3 Torx screws securing the two aluminum covers on top of the two display cable connectors.

    • Use a pair of tweezers to remove the two aluminum covers.

    This is only necessary if the screen you are replacing with does not already have these installed. In my experience, most do.

    maccentric -

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    • Remove the four 3.3 mm T5 Torx screws (two on each side) which secure the antenna cable assembly.

    • Also remove the twelve 1.1 mm P2 pentalobe screws (six on each side).

    • These small screws can strip easily, so make sure your P2 pentalobe driver is in good condition before applying pressure.

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    • Use a pair of tweezers to remove the plastic antenna cable cover.

    • This cover is secured with some light adhesive.

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    • Carefully disconnect the two antenna coax cables by prying them straight up from the logic board.

    • Slide your tweezers or the flat end of your spudger underneath each cable until it's near the socket, and then gently twist or pry up to disconnect it.

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    • To reconnect each antenna cable, use tweezers to align the connector directly over its socket, and then press down with a spudger so it snaps into place.

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    • Remove the 3.7 mm T5 Torx screw securing the two antenna coax cables to the main board.

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    • Use an opening pick to lever out the antenna cable assembly in the areas shown.

    • Don't slide the opening pick from side to side, because there are two display cables that can be damaged.

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    • Carefully remove the antenna assembly while simultaneously feeding the antenna cable bundle out from underneath the heat pipe.

    • Remove the antenna cable assembly.

    • During reassembly, gently pinch the cable bundle together and guide it under the heat pipe into the correct position on the board. If needed, use your tools to help guide it through, but don't force it.

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    • Remove the four 3.9 mm T3 Torx screws securing the spring hinges of the two display cables.

    T4 worked best for me

    Benjamin Bradshaw -

    Stripped one on each side. Any suggestions?

    [deleted] -

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    • Grab the left side of the display cable assembly and pull it towards the bottom end of the MacBook and away from the spring hinge.

    • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the spring hinge of the display cable out of its bracket.

    • Repeat this step with the right spring hinge of the display cable assembly.

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    • Fully open the screen and stand your MacBook Pro up on one side.

    • While steadying the MacBook pro with your free hand, remove the three T8 Torx screws from the lower display hinge.

    • Remove the remaining three T8 Torx screws from the upper display bracket.

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    • Keep a firm grip on both the screen and main body of the MacBook Pro. Either half can fall unexpectedly during this step.

    • Push both halves of the MacBook Pro together so that the hinge brackets can be lifted clear of their recesses in the chassis.

    • Push the main body of the MacBook Pro away from you while pulling the screen toward you to separate it.

    • Remove the display/screen assembly, being careful not to snag it on any cables.

    When reassembling, make sure to align the back edge of the new display assembly (hinge side) with the edge of the MacBook body, then tighten the hinge screws. Misalignment can cause the MacBook to open and close improperly. It should feel smooth where the gaps are between the two halves.

    Marc Jacobson -

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting or search our Answers community for help.

Carsten Frauenheim

Member since: 10/03/20

110978 Reputation

6 comments

I’ve followed all these steps but the screen doesn’t power up and the backlight on the keyboard stays off. It just seems to be infinitely rebooting itself. Any ideas what might be wrong?

buttifli -

You have to connect it to original charger and it should power right up

Mr Telephone Man -

I followed this guide and successfully and happily repaired my MacBook Pro. Thank you Carsten and iFixit! I will add that you need to be very careful and aware of your finger placement and/or wear gloves when you separate the lower case from the main body. The inner and outer edges of the case is very sharp and can slice your finger open. Unfortunately, I am speaking from a painful experience. This disclaimer should be added to that portion of the tutorial out of the safety of all DIY professional technicians. This guide is great and helped me complete the job successfully. The finger slice could have been an amateur move but it could honestly happen to anybody. Happy repairing!

Shane Samuelson -

Does anyone know if the camera will work with an oem replacement? Reading a lot of posts that say it wont without config software

Jono Sidwell -

Mine works without adding any config software. Followed the guide through and through without any issues or extra configurations. Happy fixing!

Shane Samuelson -

This was an excellent guide to replacing a MacBook Pro 13in 2020 model screen. I purchased the IFIXIT Pro Tech Toolkit and the IFIXIT Magnetic Project Mat and it was everything needed to complete the project. I saved a lot of time and money completing this myself. Always take your time being mindful of how delicate things are when doing a repair.

Really appreciate IFIXIT and their helpful tutorials which allow folks at home to service their own electronics.

Cheers,

-Joe Hugen

joehugen -