MacBook Air 13" Retina Display 2019 Battery Replacement

Written By: Adam O'Camb

Comments: 53

MacBook Air 13" Retina Display 2019 Battery Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

30 minutes - 1 hour

Introduction

Follow this guide to safely remove and replace the battery from your 2019 MacBook Air.

To minimize risk of damage, turn on your MacBook and allow the battery to fully discharge before starting this procedure. A charged lithium-ion battery can be very dangerous if accidentally punctured. If your battery looks puffy or swollen, take extra precautions.

Tools

Parts

MacBook Air 13" (Late 2018-Early 2020) Battery

Step 1

Before starting this procedure, you should disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide to disable Auto Boot.
If your MacBook is running Big Sur v11.1 or later, disabling Auto Boot may not work. You can proceed normally, but make sure to disconnect the battery as soon as you're inside.
Completely power off and unplug your MacBook Air before you start. Close the display and flip the entire laptop upside-down.
Use a P5 driver to remove the following screws:
Two 7.9 mm screws
Two 7.1 mm screws
Six 2.6 mm screws

If the first thing you do is disconnect the battery, is it really an issue if you don’t (or can’t) disable auto-boot?

maccentric - 14/10/20

I agree, why disable Auto-Boot when the lid is closed and the battery is disconnected immediately? – I've never had an issue since 2016 when the feature was introduced.

stevebsiegel -

On my machine, the longest two screws were in the corners, while the other two long screws were in the middle. Perhaps previous service in the past had them replaced into the wrong place? In any case, the longest screws do seem to fit in either place. I guess 0.8mm is not very much of a difference. Seems like poor design if they could have used one size of screw.

johann beda - 16/10/22

Just did one, and it also had longest screws in the corners.

maccentric -

Just did another, and the long ones were in the middle. Definitely poor design and quality control.

maccentric -

Step 2

Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.
Remove the lower case.
After reassembly, your MacBook might not turn on until it's connected to a power source (a low power phone charger may work). To test your repair, plug in your charger, allow two minutes for your MacBook to turn on, and check that everything works as expected.

Das geht etwas schwer, da das Unterteil mittig noch von 2 Druckverschlüssen gehalten wird.

facebook -

translated and true:
This is a bit difficult because the lower part is still held in the middle by 2 pressure fasteners.

Tom - 19/10/23

Are there any suggestions to removing the pressure fasteners more easily?

Drea Mastromatteo -

Step 3

Peel back the tape covering the battery connector enough to reveal the connector underneath.

Step 4

Use a spudger to slide the battery connector parallel to the logic board and out of its socket on the logic board.

Before the battery can be fully disconnected, the battery disconnect button needs to be held down. There is a gold button just above the battery socket, along with a small LED much like the 12” machines. Once this has been held down and the LED has switched off it is safe to remove the battery.

Aaron Dalziel - 08/12/20

This seems like an important step?

maccentric - 28/02/21

Also, seems like this should be done after the battery is disconnected, not before? Otherwise, wouldn’t the battery re-charge it?

maccentric -

What if the white LED dosent light up after pressing the yellow button again?

Iron05 -

I just performed this repair on my late 2018 mac air. I did click the gold button but saw no LED illuminated or otherwise. Question- after reassembly does the button get pressed again to connect the battery? Please clarify if this button is to be pressed and if it needs pressing again after the repair.

All said - I pressed again after the battery connector clicked, assembled the back and all worked perfectly. The original issue was one dead port (no charge, no communication). The battery charge lightening bold icon was acting funny too. Genuis bar guy in Naperville said it was likely a logic board too. But it was not. The port was apparently confusing the logic board with regards to the charge function. Thanks Adam for saving me $440 and sending my computer back to Apple. I am 71 yrs young - who says an old dog can’t learn new tricks with good training!!

William Lane - 13/07/21

I didn't see Aaron's comment before completing the battery replacement. Afterwards, the computer would not turn on despite multiple SMC reset procedures. Upon double-checking the comments I see the importance of pressing the gold button. I pressed the gold button before disconnecting the new battery, then pressed it again after reconnecting for good measure. Computer booted!

It would be good of iFixit to add this important step as most people probably don't open up every single comment on (seemingly) simple steps.

Corey Matsumoto -

Seconding Corey's comment. If paid more attention to the comment section, I would have avoided 15-30 minutes of panic. (BTW I did not notice any LED, but the golden button was easy to find).

Lorenzo Sorbo -

Where is the gold button? I replaced my battery and my laptop will not start

Candace Williams -

Step 5

Use a pair of tweezers to lift up the black adhesive pull tab at the bottom of the right speaker, enough so you can grab it with your fingers.
Grab the adhesive strip pull tab and slowly and carefully pull the adhesive strip out from under the speaker.
Keep the angle of the adhesive strip as parallel to the laptop as you can. Try to avoid dragging it across the inside of the case.
If the adhesive strip breaks, leave it in and proceed to the next step.

What do you do to get the speaker to stick once you put things back together? Are these adhesive strips reusable? If not, where can we get new ones?

Ryan - 30/12/20

The strips will tend to remain edhesive in some cases but if not just use some thin double sided adhesive tape of a similar width. I will not link because I am in Australia but it isn’t hard to find. I used some heat (100°C) and a plastic spudger to aid removal or a hair dryer on lower heat. Slow and steady, it’s not hard. The strips will almost certainly break.

Peter Newman -

Step 6

Slide the tip of a spudger underneath the right speaker cable and pry straight up to disconnect the speaker.

this is a bit tricky -- looks like it's one of the connectors where you lift the bar deal, but I don't think it is. Managed to break pins on this one. Perhaps another photo?

Seaphotog -

Broke both speaker connectors by spudging straight up. Looks like they should slide apart like a normal zif.

Paul M Krause -

Pulled straight up and broke both connectors.

Paul M Krause -

Step 7

Use tweezers to lift the adhesive pull tab at the top of the right speaker enough that you can grab it with your fingers.
Grab the adhesive strip pull tab and slowly and carefully pull the adhesive strip out from under the speaker.
Keep the angle of the adhesive strip as parallel to the laptop as you can. Try to avoid dragging it across the inside of the case.
If the adhesive strip breaks, or if the first adhesive strip broke, use a heated iOpener or heat gun to help remove the adhesive:
Apply heat to the speaker to soften the adhesive underneath.
Carefully slide a spudger or opening pick underneath the speaker to separate the adhesive.

This business of pulling the adhesive out (here and with the batteries) - at first it seems impossible, but persevere. Pull it really, really, slowly - it extends to around 30cm before it's all out. I applied a bit of heat with a heat gun (at least with the batteries) and after a few failed attempts got the hang of it. When it works, it's like magic and very satisfying, and much better than giving up and prising the part off with the adhesive in place.

Neale Whyatt -

Step 8

Lift the right speaker straight up from the bottom and remove it.

Step 5 the right speaker adhesive broken while removing, other end adhesive slipped out ok. But it's extremely hard to now lift up the battery, feels like I break something if I try harder.

handsonmac -

This is not as easy as it sounds. Neither adhesive strip broke, but that bugger resists removal, because it is attached with adhesive tape to the bottom. Use different angles of attack to pry it up with steady force.

Ronald Troxel -

Step 9

Use a pair of tweezers to lift up the black adhesive pull tab at the bottom of the left speaker, enough so you can grab it with your fingers.
Grab the adhesive strip pull tab and slowly and carefully pull the adhesive strip out from under the speaker.
Keep the angle of the adhesive strip as parallel to the laptop as you can. Try to avoid dragging it across the inside of the case.
If the adhesive strip breaks, leave it in and proceed to the next step.

Step 10

Slide the tip of a spudger underneath the left speaker cable and pry straight up to disconnect the speaker.
With the connector disconnected, slide the flat end of a spudger under the cable to separate the adhesive securing the cable to the logic board.

Step 11

Use tweezers to lift the adhesive pull tab at the top of the left speaker enough that you can grab it with your fingers.
Grab the adhesive strip pull tab and slowly and carefully pull the adhesive strip out from under the speaker.
Keep the angle of the adhesive strip as parallel to the laptop as you can. Try to avoid dragging it across the inside of the case.
If the adhesive strip breaks, or if the first adhesive strip broke, use a heated iOpener or heat gun to help remove the adhesive:
Apply heat to the speaker to soften the adhesive underneath.
Carefully slide a spudger or opening pick underneath the speaker to separate the adhesive.

Step 12

Lift the left speaker straight up from the bottom and remove it.

Step 13

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.4 mm screws securing the trackpad connector bracket.
Depending on the condition of your bits, a T4 Torx driver may fit better.
Remove the trackpad connector bracket.

My machine used T4 screws

johann beda -

Me too! I tried with T3 and it wasn’t working.

Rose Alshuaibi -

I stripped my screws trying to get them out with a t3 driver...

Aubrey Corcoran -

Step 14

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad cable connector up and out of its socket.

Step 15

If the left speaker is already disconnected, skip this step.
Slide the tip of a spudger underneath the left speaker cable and pry straight up to disconnect the speaker.
With the connector disconnected, slide the flat end of a spudger under the cable to separate the adhesive securing the cable to the logic board.

I think step 15 was a mistake because it’s a repeat of step 10.

Ryan R - 03/03/21

Yeah, the speaker is already removed at this point.

Jason _ - 20/04/21

Step 16

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.3 mm screws securing the USB-C port connector bracket.
Remove the USB-C connector bracket.

There is no need to remove the logic board!!

Skip steps 16 through 28 and go to step 29 to release the trackpad cable from the battery. then follow steps to 30 through 33 to release the battery. The battery can be removed by slipping it counter-clockwise under the trackpad cable. The new battery can be slipped in place in the same way.

Much easier!!

josephgray -

Agreed. Took me a minute to realize that I had to slide the top right screw bracket between the logic board and the case to get enough clearance for the rotation. Many thanks.

w98fxr -

Removing a few of the logic board screws allowed me to get the to right screw bracket under the logic board to give enough clearance as w98fxr mentioned.

johann beda -

Step 17

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the USB-C cable connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

please reconsider removing the logic board and and usb-c connector as is recommended in the prior step. i had a very difficult time reconnecting the usb-c connector

Mario Obejas -

Step 18

Use a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the sound board cable's ZIF connector.
Slide the sound board cable out of the ZIF connector.

Step 19

Peel back the black tape covering the fan cable connector.

Step 20

Use the tip of a spudger to lift up the locking flap on the fan cable's ZIF connector.
Slide the fan cable out of the ZIF connector.

There may not be a locking flap. If not, just pull the fan cable out of the ZIF connector.

rmilton -

Step 21

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.4 mm screws securing the antenna cable bracket.
Remove the antenna cable bracket.

These are T4 screws

Richard Arnett - 18/08/20

The MBA I just finished with were T3. I'm fairly confident with my tools as I recently updated/upgraded nearly my entire set with WiHa. I should also mention the many tools acquired from iFixit over the years have all been were exceptional lasting years. There's no doubt iFixit would have been my source but a close friend went to work for WiHa. His discount(s) & being motivated to help him was a major impact. For anyone not having such an advantage IMHO tools from iFixit are one of the best values anywhere. Let's not forget; buying from iFixit will also help to push "Right to Repair" forward. Here in Minnesota Right to repair ALMOST PASSED. Many believe it will become law during the next session! I can't tell you how proud this would make me. I would obtain as many service manuals as possible and post them all online!!! What a great dream...

admin -

Step 22

Insert the point of a spudger under one of the antenna cables close to the connector. Pry straight up to disconnect the cable.
Repeat for the other antenna cable.

Be SUPER SUPER CAREFUL pulling off the gold WiFi antenna connectors! As described, use the spludger to press up the black cable just behind the metal connector. I tried to ping them off from the bottom of the gold connector where it clips into the socket on the motherboard and ended up pulling off the SMD sockets from the motherboard - huge and costly mistake that will probably render it useless.

Neale Whyatt -

Step 23

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.5 mm screws securing the display cable connector bracket.
Remove the display cable connector bracket.

Step 24

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the display cable connector.

How do I reconnect display connector??

Kris Queck - 16/04/21

Just align the plug section of the display flex with the socket on the logic board and gently press it in until it locks in place. Do not force it but just ensure it’s correctly aligned before pushing it into the socket.

Peter Newman - 03/06/21

Pro tip: You can remove the two T5 screws on the LCD connector side (located to the right of the display connector and to the left of the heat shield). From there, tilt the whole skinny LCD board towards the logic board connector and gently pinch the connector in to the socket. Before laying the skinny board back down, screw in the shield from Step 15 so it doesn’t pop out of the socket again.

jason4 -

Step 25

Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the following screws:
One 5.5 mm screw
Three 2.6 mm screws
Two 1.9 mm screws

These are T5 Torx driver screws

Richard Arnett - 18/08/20

Need torx 5 AND torx 4 driver here ;)

Marcel Popp - 20/08/20

During re-assembly be soft when screwing in the logic board because those antenna plugs in Step 14 are quite awkward to pin back into their sockets and there is little leeway in the cables; to make this task a little easier in Step 14, secure the logic board loosely right up against the near outside edge; after re-connecting all the cables in Steps 16-9, return to Step 17 to firm up the logic board screws.

Andrew Gordon - 16/09/20

This tip was a huge help, hate these cables lol

Konrad Anderson -

The 5.5 mm screw goes into a hexagon standoff which may come off with the logic board being sanswiched beteen the 5.5 mm screw screw and the standoff like happened to me. Just something to be aware of. It also has a black rubber bumper over the screw which was not mentioned at all. It pulls straight off to give access to the screw.

Peter Newman - 03/06/21

On my board I needed to use T6 for all the screws except the rubber bumper for which I used a T7. I have a full set of small Torx drivers and tried for the best fit.

jeffyouell -

T5 fit best is all the screws on my machine

johann beda -

Step 26

Remove the logic board.

Step 27

Carefully slide an opening pick under the trackpad cable to separate the adhesive securing it to the upper case.
If you have difficulty separating the adhesive, heat it slightly with an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive.

Step 28

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the small locking flap on the trackpad ZIF connector.
Slide the trackpad cable straight out of its connector.

Step 29

Carefully slide an opening pick under the trackpad cable to separate the adhesive securing it to the battery.
If you have difficulty separating the adhesive, heat it slightly with an iOpener or hair dryer. Be careful not to overheat the battery.

Step 30

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove four 2.5 mm screws securing the battery.

Step 31

Use a pair of tweezers to lift up the black adhesive pull tab on the side of the battery, enough so you can grab it with your fingers.
Grab the adhesive strip pull tab and slowly and carefully pull the adhesive strip out from under the battery.
Keep the angle of the adhesive strip as parallel to the laptop as you can. Try to avoid dragging it across the inside of the case.
If the adhesive strip breaks, leave it in and proceed to the next step.

No ISO needed here. Luckily 6/6 tapes came out cleanly (praise the Lord)

Peter Newman -

Step 32

Repeat the previous step to remove the next two adhesive strips on the same side of the battery.
If any adhesive strips break, leave them in and proceed to the next step.

Step 33

Repeat the previous two steps to remove the three adhesive strips on the other side of the battery.
If any of the adhesive strips broke, you can use high-concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol to help remove them:
Carefully drip isopropyl alcohol along either edge of the battery, in the recessed part of the upper case, where the adhesive pull tabs were.
Applying too much alcohol or applying it outside of the wells in the case where the adhesive sits risks damaging other components.
Let the alcohol soak into the adhesive for a minute or two.
Use opening picks to gently pry the battery away from the upper case.

Step 34

Remove the battery.
Calibrate your newly installed battery: charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.
If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook's SMC.

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

Author

Adam O'Camb

Member since: 11/04/15

195421 Reputation

5 comments

Any issues with replacing the speakers without an adhesive. I see they shift around a little bit, but perhaps with the back cover on they stay in place. Any advise on this?

jzuaiter - 19/02/21

Great repair guide but the logic board screws are Torx T5 (not T4) at Step 25 of guide

Andrew Waterson -

Thanks! I would never have guessed everything that needed to be done without this guide. Man, I HATE the tiny, tiny screws. Lost one even after sticking all the screws to tape, just in case. :( Took the full hour to put in in, but the new battery is charging like new.

K L DeWitt -

Neale Whyatt -

Can one please recommend what adhesive to choose to fix speakers and the new batterie.

cheers

Holgi

Holgi -