MacBook Air 13" Early 2020 USB-C Board Replacement

Written By: Carsten Frauenheim

Comments: 14

MacBook Air 13" Early 2020 USB-C Board Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

10 - 30 minutes

Introduction

Use this guide to remove or replace the USB-C board in an Early 2020 MacBook Air.

Tools

Parts

MacBook Air 13" (Late 2018-Late 2020) USB-C Board

Step 1

Before starting this procedure, you should disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide to disable Auto Boot.
If your MacBook is running Big Sur v11.1 or later, disabling Auto Boot may not work. You can proceed normally, but make sure to disconnect the battery as soon as you're inside.
Completely power off and unplug your MacBook Air before you start. Close the display and flip the entire laptop upside-down.
Use a P5 driver to remove the following screws:
Two 7.9 mm screws
Two 7.1 mm screws
Six 2.6 mm screws
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your MacBook.

P5 is also a PL4 (so confusing) - i like the wiha 26764 thanks to @mayer for this post. P5 pentalobe and 1.2 pentalobe screwdriver

greg -

Step 2

Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.
Remove the lower case.
To reinstall the lower case:
Set it in place and press firmly to engage the two hidden clips underneath. You should feel and hear them snap into place.

When reassembling, the “snaps” are in the middle of the laptop (from top to bottom), and just to the left and right of center. I assumed it was near the hinge so it took a bit for me to hear the snaps.

Laurie McCall -

Laurie, the two clips are outlined in the third photo of step two. Hope this helps—happy fixing!

Carsten Frauenheim -

What tool kit should I use for this?

Lucas Lee -

the second picture is m1 air right？

the antenna cable position does not match later picture

Paul -

Step 3

Peel back the tape covering the battery connector enough to reveal the connector underneath.

This image is incorrect correct for the A2179 EMC 3302 model, also doesn’t match the next image in this guide

Steven Friar -

There is other guide for the model you reffer to, I was using that one until i realize it was different, this is the one you are looking for: MacBook Air 13" Retina Late 2020

Marco Rojas -

I initially thought the image was incorrect, but I was just looking for the connector in the wrong place. This picture IS correct for the A2179 EMC 3302. Note that the connector is on the left side of the heat sink (the black thing with parallel ridges in the picture and on the computer), and the connector wires gather together towards the left the side of the computer, not the back. Note that "left side" assumes the Air is upside-down, with the hinge on the side farthest away from you (I'm not doing the "right speaker is on the left side because it's upside-down" thing that iFixit does in step 5).

Bryan Gillson -

How do you find out if you have a Retina Late or Retina Early model?

Inji E -

Step 4

Use a spudger to slide the battery connector parallel to the logic board and out of its socket on the logic board.

It’s stuck can’t get it out

Jeansceem Jeansceem -

Step 5

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.4 mm screws securing the USB-C connector cover.
Remove the USB-C connector cover.

Step 6

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the USB-C cable connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Step 7

Use a T4 Torx driver to remove the two 2.9 mm screws securing the USB-C board.

Step 8

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the USB-C board.

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

Author

Carsten Frauenheim

Member since: 10/03/20

110978 Reputation

4 comments

Great guide and easy repair! My MacBook Air thought it was perpetually plugged in and would only charge from one of the USB C ports, this repair fixed it! I had a little scare when rebooting after the the fix, I either wasn’t pressing the power/touch ID button long enough or resetting the SMC (left shift, control, option, and power buttons) and holding the buttons until it booted worked. Not sure which did it.

Tyler -

Thanks a lot, the repair guide was perfect ! It really took me 5mn.

My usb-c connector got corroded after I accidentally pulled some water on my computer. As by Tyler’s comment, my MBA was only working from one single port anymore and showed to be perpetually connected and in charge. I got the spare chip from AliExpress for 10€. Apple would have charged me for 400€…

Lastly, when booting for the 1st time after doing the repair, pressing the power button didn’t work and my MBA stayed off. I had to plug it to the charger and it then booted seamlessly.

Thanks again !

Faabio -

Wish i could change out my USB port on my 2014 MacAir to USB-C

Shaun M. -

The same experience as Fabio. The repair was simple and straight-forward and the machine wouldn't boot from the battery the first time. Once plugged into the charger it booted just fine and has booted off the battery as normal ever since.

Fixed my 1 dead USB port problem with very little hassle/cost. Just be prepared for the bowel clenching moment when it won't boot from the battery the first time.

Cary -