Munsingwear

Munsingwear was a Minnesota-based brand of underwear from which Original Penguin developed. The company was established as Northwestern Knitting Company.[1] It also was known as PremiumWear.[1]

History

The company was started by George D. Munsing, who came to Minnesota from New York in 1886 to set up a textile factory, along with Frank H. Page and Edward O. Tuttle from the Massachusetts Institute of Technology.[1] Munsing had been superintendent of the Rochester Knitting Works and had experimented with knit fabrics and ribbing, developing a process to plate silk on wool,[1] thus making woolen long underwear, essential in cold climates, "itchless": much more comfortable. Munsing came to Minnesota to set up his factory, which manufactured products for both men and women, because it was in the coldest region of the U.S., and the market for warm underwear would presumably be best there.[2] Munsing also thought that the many Scandinavian immigrants in Minnesota would make it a suitable location; mention of underwear was taboo in American society at the time.[3] Patent attorney Amasa C. Paul served as Northwestern Knitting Company's president when it was incorporated on February 15, 1887, and Munsing was vice-president.[1] The Northwestern Knitting Company's ad for its products in the September 1897 issue of Ladies' Home Journal was the first to display underwear on a live model.[4]

Munsing was a technologist and the company received several patents, including those for a crocheting machine in 1891 and a union suit in the early 1890s. The union suit was the company's flagship product until the 1920s,[5] when central heating made it less useful.[6] It continued until 1969.[7] The cream-colored garment became iconic and was featured in the company's advertising with children and adults outfitted in them; underwear ads had never used live models before.[8] In 1894 Munsing left the company.[1]

In 1923 the company went public and changed its name to Munsingwear, Inc.[1] At the time it was the largest manufacturer of underwear in the world.[9] Its slogan was "Don't say underwear, say Munsingwear".[10] At its peak it was producing 30,000 garments per day.[11] Its knitting mill was the largest west of the Alleghany Mountains.[12] The company expanded into women's underwear in the 1920s, and starting in 1931 offered Foundettes, which used an elasticized yarn to produce a combination foundation garment that combined a brassiere and a girdle.[13]

Munsingwear was the largest employer of women in the state of Minnesota; at one point 85% of its 3,000 employees were women.[14] By the 1920s, in part trying to avoid unionization, Munsingwear offered many benefits, some quite progressive for the time. It had a health clinic staffed by a full-time nurse, with regular visits from general practitioners, otolaryngologists (because of air quality problems), dental assistants, and dentists. All of this care was free.[15] Mungsingwear also offered access to health insurance, a branch of the Minneapolis Public Library which circulated 7,500 books a year, a large, fully staffed kitchen which provided lunches to the entire work force (in shifts),[16] an orchestra which performed during Thursday lunch breaks, an on-site gymnasium, sports teams,[17] and other benefits.[2][18][19]

Its flagship product of recent years, patented in 1943,[20] was the "Kangaroo brief", featuring a horizontal fly and a contoured pouch. For an advertisement showing all its styles of men's underwear available in 1969, see .[21]

In 1951 the company merged with the Vassar Swiss Underwear Company, which became the Vassar division of Munsingwear.[22]

In 1955 the company began producing its Grand Slam gold shirt, with a Penguin logo. In the 1960s and 1970s these were the best-selling golf shirts in the world. Munsingwear also added a line of women's golf, bowling, and fashion shirts.[23]

In 1991 the company filed for Chapter 11 reorganization. In 1996 it changed its name to PremiumWear, and focused on specialty markets. Premiumwear was in turn bought by the Canadian clothesmaker John Forsythe, which sought bankruptcy protection in 2013. The Munsingwear and Original Penguin brands are currently owned by Perry Ellis.[24]

United States v Munsingwear

Following World War II, the United States sued Munsingwear for alleged violations of a price-fixing regulation, seeking, in separate counts, an injunction and treble damages.[25] While the case was being held on appeal, the commodity involved was decontrolled and the case was rendered moot. The Supreme Court vacated the lower court's ruling, sent the case back to the lower court, and had them render the case moot. This practice has commonly become known as a Munsingwear vacatur.[26]

Vassar Swiss Underwear Company

Vassar Swiss Underwear Company began operations in 1900 and was purchased by Northwestern Knitting Company in 1912.[27][27] The founders were George E. Rutledge, Emil A. Basener, and Frederick S. McCoy. The company started in Chicago, but soon moved operations to Rochelle, Illinois. Shortly after the sale, Northwestern decided to ramp up production and moved Vassar Swiss back to Chicago, building a new plant, named the Vassar Swiss Underwear Company Building.[27] Construction was completed in April of the following year.[27] Vassar Swiss prospered in its new location. Rutledge, now a vice-president at parent company Northwestern, joined with other company designers to improve his original union suit design.[27] In 1923, the company constructed an addition on the western portion of their building, by the same architect, to house their box factory and shipping.

Over the next four decades, the company shifted focus and products. Union suits became less popular, and briefs soon became the company's leading product. Vassar Swiss purchased the building from Stewart, after having leased it since construction.[27] Rutledge retired in 1937. The company shortened its name to "Vassar Company" and, in 1951, "Vassarette."[28] In 1967, production operations were moved from Chicago to Paris, Texas,[27] and as of 2010 the Vasarette name is owned by Vanity Fair Brands, and produces women's underwear.[28]

Archival material

The Minnesota Historical Society has a collection of over 3,500 pieces of Munsingwear, donated by the company when it shut down its factory in North Minneapolis, together with company papers, photos, salesman's samples, and premiums.[29]

Minnesota Historical Society, "Underwear: A Brief History," http://www.minnesotahistorycenter.org/exhibits/underwear-brief-history, retrieved 09/15/2014

See also

Bibliography
  • Anderson, Marcia G., "Munsingwear: An Underwear for America," Minnesota History, Winter 1986, pp. 152–61. http://collections.mnhs.org/MNHistoryMagazine/articles/50/v50i04p152-161.pdf, retrieved 09/15/2014
  • Beulke, Diane, "Heads Roll As Munsingwear Tries for Another Comeback," Minneapolis/St. Paul CityBusiness, October 21, 1987, pp. 1, 27.
  • "Betting on the Bang Theory," Corporate Report Minnesota, December 1979, p. 65.
  • Danson, Barb, "Munsingwear: A Brief History," Tonka Times, September 2011, pp. 32–37, http://www.qwsconsulting.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/TT-Sept-2011-Munsingwear.pdf, retrieved 09/16/2014>
  • Feyder, Susan, "PremiumWear New Golf Shirt Won't Include the Penguin," Star Tribune (Minneapolis), January 9, 1998, p. 1D.
  • Goetz, Katherine R., "Munsingwear", MNopedia (Minnesota Historical Society), http://www.mnopedia.org/group/munsingwear, retrieved 09/15/2014.
  • Hillbery, Rhonda, "A Better Kind of Bankruptcy," Minneapolis/St. Paul CityBusiness, November 25, 1991, pp. 11, 18.
  • Johnson, Ken, "The Munsingwear Fit," Corporate Report Minnesota, February 1975, pp. 29–30.
  • Marks, Susan, In the Mood for Munsingwear: Minnesota's Claim to Underwear Fame, Minnesota Historical Society Press, 2011, ISBN 0873518225.
  • Merrill, Ann, "Campbell Tailors a New Munsingwear," Minneapolis/St. Paul CityBusiness, September 17–23, 1990, pp. 1, 22.
  • "Munsingwear Sews Up Deal to Supply Sears with Shirts," Minneapolis/St. Paul CityBusiness, January 6–12, 1992, pp. 1, 15.
  • "Munsingwear a Supreme Buy: Miami-Based Company Has Big Plans for Branded Golf Labels," Daily News Record, May 24, 1996, p. 1.
  • "Munsingwear Falls Deeper into Red," Daily News Record, April 9, 1996, p. 9.
  • "Munsingwear Reduces Loss in 4th Quarter to $298,000," Daily News Record, March 13, 1995, p. 2.
  • "Munsingwear: Scoring on Comeback Course," Daily News Record, May 11, 1992, p. 10.
  • "Munsingwear Selling Marks for China, Vietnam, Macao," Daily News Record, July 2, 1996, p. 10.
  • "Munsingwear Shows $1.2 Million Profit in Year," Daily News Record, February 19, 1993, p. 2.
  • Pendle, George, "The 'Itchless' Innovation that Made Minneapolis the Capital of Underwear," AtlasObscura, March 7, 2016, .
  • Peterson, Susan E., "Campbell Will Leave Munsingwear to Become CEO of Crystal Brands, a Larger Competitor," Star Tribune (Minneapolis), July 16, 1993, p. 1D.
  • "PremiumWear Has Strong Quarter," Daily News Record, March 2, 1998, p. 11.
  • "PremiumWear, Inc.," Corporate Report Fact Book 1999, p. 377.
  • "PremiumWear Names James Murphy General Manager of Golf Division," PR Newswire, July 28, 1999.
  • "PremiumWear Net Skyrockets in 4th Quarter, Year," Daily News Record, April 9, 1999, p. 12.
  • "PremiumWear to Close N.C. Plant," Star Tribune (Minneapolis), April 27, 1999, p. 3D.
  • Souder, William, "Munsingwear on the Mend," Corporate Report Minnesota, August 1981, pp. 47–51, 134–40.
  • Swanson, Evadene Burris, "Don't Say 'Underwear,' Say 'Munsingwear,"' Hennepin County History, Winter 1987, pp. 3–19.
  • Trachtenberg, Jeffrey A., "The Minnow and the Basses," Forbes, February 25, 1985, p. 75.
  • Tracy, Eleanor Johnson, "Stodgy Munsingwear Changes Its Underwear," Fortune, September 3, 1984, p. 67.
  • Youngblood, Dick, "Smaller Is Better," Star Tribune (Minneapolis), January 26, 1998, p. 1D.

References
  1. International Directory of Company Histories, Vol. 30. St. James Press, 2000
  2. Henry Berry, review of Susan Marks, In the Mood for Munsingwear: Minnesota's Claim to Underwear Fame, May 19, 2011, https://www.amazon.com/Mood-Munsingwear-Minnesotas-Claim-Underwear/dp/0873518225, retrieved 09/15/2014
  3. Pendle, George, "The 'Itchless' Innovation that Made Minneapolis the Capital of Underwear," AtlasObscura, March 7, 2016, .
  4. Reproduced in Susan Marks, In the Mood for Munsingwear: Minnesota's Claim to Underwear Fame, Minnesota Historical Society Press, 2011, ISBN 0873518225, p. 5
  5. "Munsing Wear: An American Classic", http://www.dollhousebettie.com/index.php?option=com_myblog&Itemid=0&lang=en&show=256 Archived 2018-03-26 at the Wayback Machine, retrieved 9/15/2014
  6. Marks p. 73
  7. Barb Danson, "Munsingwear: A Brief History," Tonka Times, September 2011, p. 37, http://www.qwsconsulting.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/TT-Sept-2011-Munsingwear.pdf, retrieved 09/16/2014
  8. The George Pendle article just cited.
  9. Marks p. 26.
  10. Evadene Burris Swanson, "Don't Say 'Underwear,' Say 'Munsingwear,"' Hennepin County History, Winter 1987, pp. 3–19.
  11. Danson, p. 35
  12. Marks p. 23.
  13. Marks pp. 57-59 and 73-81
  14. Sara Boyd, "Curiocity: ‘Underwear: A Brief History’ To Be Unveiled In May", CBS Minnesota, March 7, 2011, http://minnesota.cbslocal.com/2011/03/07/curiocity-underwear-a-brief-history/, retrieved 09/15/2014
  15. Marks p. 36
  16. Marks p. 39
  17. Marks p. 40
  19. Marks, pp. 39-43 and 48
  20. http://patft.uspto.gov/netacgi/nph-Parser?Sect1=PTO2&Sect2=HITOFF&p=1&u=%2Fnetahtml%2FPTO%2Fsearch-bool.html&r=6&f=G&l=50&co1=AND&d=PTXT&s1=munsingwear&OS=munsingwear&RS=munsingwear, retrieved 09/17/2014
  21. St. Petersburg Times'', February 24, 1969, p. 3B.
  22. Landmark Designation Report, Vassar Swiss Underwear Building, City of Chicago, 2008, http://www.cityofchicago.org/content/dam/city/depts/zlup/Historic_Preservation/Publications/Vassar_Swiss_Underwear_Co_Bldg.pdf, retrieved October 4, 2014.
  23. Marks, p. 99.
  24. Danson, p. 37
  25. "United States v. Munsingwear, Inc., 340 U.S. 36 (1950)". www.supreme.justia.com. Justia. Retrieved February 28, 2020.
  26. Millett, Pattie (June 10, 2008). "Practice Pointer: Mootness and Munsingwear Vacatur". www.scotusblog.com. SCOTUSBlog. Retrieved February 28, 2020.
  27. "Landmark Designation Report: Vassar Swiss Underwear Company Building" (PDF). City of Chicago Department of Planning and Development. February 7, 2008. Retrieved August 13, 2010.
  28. "The Vassarette Story". Vanity Fair Brands. Archived from the original on August 31, 2010. Retrieved August 19, 2010.
  29. Susan Marks, "Preface," In the Mood for Munsingwear: Minnesota's Claim to Underwear Fame, Minnesota Historical Society Press, 2011, ISBN 0873518225, p. x.
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