South Uist

South Uist or Uibhist A Deas is an island in the Outer Hebrides with population of less than 2,000 but extending over 25 miles from north to south. It is one of the last strongholds of the Gaelic language, and has a long history reflected in the many archaeological remains that can be visited. There are no large towns, and the population is generally spread thinly on the machairs of the western side. But South Uist has a beauty of its own, with ever changing weather, and is a good place for bird and wildlife watching.

Tobha Mor from Howmore

Sheltered inlet at the top of Loch Boisdale

Understand

Like much of the Highlands and Islands, Uist and its population was neglected and persecuted by its landlords for many years, and fell into long decline. Under new legislation, however, on 30 November 2006, the Community buyout of the South Uist Estate by Stòras Uibhist was agreed. This will not have any immediate impact for the visitor, but may improve things over the next few years, as already has happened on Gigha and Eigg. The island is predominatly Catholic and takes a more relaxed view of the Sabbath that its northerly neighbours.

Get in

By plane

The airport for the Uists is 🌍 Benbecula Airport (BEB ^IATA), a short drive north across the causeway. There are flights daily from Glasgow taking an hour, operated by Loganair. There are also flights (M-F) to Stornoway on Lewis: these connect to other destinations such as Edinburgh, but it's generally quicker to fly to Glasgow and take the train or other transport from there. The buses between South Uist and North Uist run past the airport on Benbecula.

Another route is to cross by ferry to Barra, which has daily flights to Glasgow. But it's a smaller plane with only 15 kg checked baggage allowance, and tide-dependent as it lands on the beach. If there's some reason why you can't get on the Benbecula flight, it will probably also apply to the Barra flight.

By boat

The ferry port for South Uist is 🌍 Lochboisdale near the south tip of the island. April-Oct this has ferries daily from Mallaig (3 hours 30 mins) on the Scottish mainland. The outbound ferry can be reached - only just! - by the first train of the day from Glasgow; the return connection is less fraught. In winter the Mallaig ferry runs Wed, Sat & Sun in Dec, Jan & late Feb. Otherwise in winter, the ferry is from Oban (5 hours to Lochboisdale) Mon & Fri in Dec, Jan & late Feb, and on Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat & Sun in Nov, early Feb and March.

The ferries are operated by Caledonian MacBrayne (Calmac) and take vehicles. Another route is to sail from Uig on Skye to Lochmaddy in North Uist and drive south.

Lochboisdale has a marina, with fuel and facilities for launching boats; mooring charge £10 a night.

Causeways

South Uist is linked by causeway to Benbecula to the North and Eriskay to the South.

By Bus

Buses link South Uist with Benbecula, and Eriskay. As part of the Western Isles Overland Route combination of bus and ferry, you can travel in under a day from Stornoway or Castlebay on Barra.

Get around

Walking, or cycling.

By Bus

There are good bus services during the day Mon - Sat, but little in the evening and no buses on a Sunday.

• Western Isles bus timetables

See

The ecclesiastical site at Howmore, or Tobha Mor

• 🌍 Loch Druidibeg Nature Reserve. in the north of the island with over 200 species of flowering plant. (updated Apr 2017)
• 🌍 Our Lady of the Isles. a 9 metre high statue (NF 776407) of the virgin and child by Huw Lorimer erected in 1957, the largest religious statue in the British Isles. It faces the Protestant northern islands, and greets entry to the Catholic south.  
• 🌍 Dun Vulan (Dun Mhulan) (half way down the island, (NF 715297) near the track to Bornish or Bornais.). an Iron Age broch and settlement. (updated Apr 2017)
• 🌍 Kildonan Museum, Kildonan. Apil to the end of September. Daily 10:00 - 17:00. with a good display of local history, crafts, and a decent cafe. 
• 🌍 Flora MacDonalds birthplace ((NF 740269) - 3 miles north of Daliburgh). where the woman who helped Bonnie Prince Charlie avoid capture was born. (updated Apr 2017)
• Taigh Dubh or blackhouses. the traditional dwelling of the Uist crofter can be seen, and some are now restored, such as at Howmore or Tobha Mor (NF 758364), where there is an important medieval ecclesiastical site. 
• 🌍 Bornish (Bornais) (NF 729302). the site of three settlement mounds from the Late Iron Age. (updated Apr 2017)
• Beaches. The wonderful beaches all along the western coast. 
• 🌍 Ormacleit Castle. ruins of a mansion house from 1707, destroyed by fire in 1715. (updated Apr 2017)

Do

• 🌍 Play Golf at Askernish. A course designed by Old Tom Morris in 1891, and after many years of neglect restored in 2008. (updated Apr 2017)
• Walking - hillwalking Ben Mhor, Ben Corodale and Hecla. For keen and experienced hillwalkers there is a good horseshoe walk direct from the hostel at Howmore which leads into the most spectacular and interesting of the South Uist hills. Note - paths are non-existent or indistinct, so take compass, maps and sensible clothing.
• Fly Fishing (angling). salmon 1 Feb - 31 Oct, brown trout 15 Mar – 30 Sep, Mon - Sat only. Excellent Fishing for brown trout, sea trout and salmon on numerous hill lochs. Several lochs have boats for anglers to use. permits from £8 per day. (updated Mar 2018)

Buy

• 🌍 Co-op, Daliburgh HS8 5SS. Mon-Sat 8.00-20.00, Sun 12:30-18:00.. Supermarket with about 5 aisles. 
• Clothes and hardware shop, Lochboisdale (near the pier). (updated Jul 2016)
• Uist artists and craftspersons shop, Kildonan Centre, HS8 5RZ (near Kildonan Museum, about 3 miles north of Daliburgh). end Mar to mid-Oct: Mon - Sat 11am to 4.30pm, Sun 1pm to 4pm. (updated Jul 2016)
• 🌍 The Big Garden, Cille Bhrighde (West Kilbride), ☎ [phone]. Seasonal fruit and vegetables, hand-spun wools, knitted/crocheted/woven garments and other items. 

Eat

• Salar Smokehouse, Lochcarnan, HS8 5PD for hand crafted smoked delicacies
• The Big Garden, Cille Bhrighde (West Kilbride). Organically-grown fresh garden produce, eggs, preserves. Teas, coffees and other refreshments served in the garden (or to take away) on fine days. T: [phone]. W: The Big Garden
• Lochboisdale Cafe, Post Office, Kenneth Drive, Lochboisdale, HS8 5TJ, ☎ [phone]. Coffee and home baking in the post office. 

Drink

See Hotels below

Sleep

Hostels

• 🌍 Howmore Youth Hostel. Simple hostel with no advance booking (and no phone) 

Bed and Breakfasts

Some can be found on the tourist board website , but many are no longer listed due to the charges and "hassle".

• 🌍 Brae Lea House, Lochboisdale,HS8 5TH, ☎ [phone]. A guest house with ensuite bedrooms about a mile from the ferry. 
• 🌍 Wireless Cottage, Lochboisdale (5-10 minutes walk from the ferry.), ☎ [phone]. (updated Apr 2017)

Self Catering

Renting a house for a week or more is a popular option. Such places are generally let from Saturday to Saturday. Some of these can be found on the tourist board website.

• 8 Askernish/Aisgernis, HS8 5SY (about 1 mile north of Daliburgh/Dalabrog), ☎ [phone]. A traditional croft cottage (fully renovated 2006) with wood-burning stove and all the comforts required for up to four people at any time of year. Dogs welcome. Bedrooms - double and twin. Kitchen with breakfast bar; Living room; Bathroom with shower over. Well-maintained and spotless. from £192 (3 nights in November). (updated Jul 2016)

Hotels

• 🌍 Lochboisdale Hotel (Right next the ferry pier.), ☎ [phone]. 10 room traditional hotel which particularly caters for those fishing for the excellent local brown trout (has a rod room). Good bar meals in the evening. from £45. (updated Mar 2018)
• 🌍 Polochar Inn, ☎ [phone]. 
• 🌍 Borrodale Hotel (on the main road at the turn-off for Lochboisdale), ☎ [phone]. 12 room hotel from £58. (updated Jan 2017)

Go next

• Going north the next islands are Benbecula, North Uist, Berneray (all connected by causeway) then take a ferry to Harris and Lewis.
• Going south the next islands are Eriskay (connected by causeway) then take a ferry to Barra.