Iriomote

Iriomote (西表) is the largest of the Yaeyama Islands of Okinawa, Japan.

A section of the Mariyudu Waterfall and the Urauchi River valley

Understand

Map of Iriomote

While the second-largest of all Okinawa islands, Iriomote's population is barely over 2,000 and visitors, at over 150,000 a year, outnumber residents by almost 100:1. 90% of the island is covered in dense jungles and swampy mangroves, most of which are either part of the Iriomote National Park or protected state land, and the island is unquestionably one of the few remaining great wildernesses of Japan.

Pretty much all of the island's population lives along the coast. Clockwise from the west, the major settlements are Shirahama (白浜), Uehara (上原), Funaura (船浦) and Ōhara (大原). The southern stretch between Ohara and Shirahama is effectively untouched coastline, with no roads and only a few isolated fishing villages near the western end.

Get in

Despite its size Iriomote does not even have a landing strip, so all visitors must arrive by boat. The nearest airport is in neighboring Ishigaki.

Two ports on the island have services from Ishigaki, operated by Anei Kankō and Yaeyama Kankō Ferry (which share tickets offices and boat schedules), and by Ishigaki Dream Kankō Ferry. Almost all visitors use the rapid services listed below, but dedicated penny-pinchers may opt for Yaeyama's thrice-weekly slow cargo boats to Ohara (2 hours, ¥1070) and Uehara via Hatoma (3 hours, ¥1380) instead. Round-trip tickets are generally available at about 10% discount.

Apparently (unverified) there is also a 4-trip ticket for ¥5.000 which is an especially good deal when going to Uehara which costs about ¥4.000 round-trip to Ishigaki.

East coast

Ohara, in the south-east coast, is the busiest port on the island and accessible in all but the very worst weather. Anei, Yaeyama and Ishigaki Dream operate boats roughly hourly for a fixed ¥1540 and take about 35 minutes.

Northwest coast

Anei and Yaeyama boats both service to Uehara in the north of the island. Both services cost ¥2000 and take about 40 minutes. Some of them also stop in Hatoma, which makes the trip 15 minutes longer. Ishigaki Dream also offers this route, but its two daily ferries stop in Hatoma and the whole trip takes around 70-80 minutes (¥1420).

As of summer 2006, nearby Funaura port is no longer used by regular ferry traffic.

Note that northwest coast services are subject to cancellation (欠航 kekkō) if there is a strong north wind, which happens particularly frequently in the winter (in autumn-winter 2016, in average half the time). In this case your ¥2000 will get you to Ohara by boat and then a free bus transfer to anywhere between Ohara and Shirahama. In case of cancellation for the return to Ishigaki, allow one hour to go by bus from Uehara to Ohara where you will be able to take a ferry (which follows Ohara schedule) ; relevant time-tables for buses and ferries available at the bottom of this page.

Get around

The port Uehara is probably your preferred place to start exploring the island. Most sights are relatively easy to reach from here. Bike, Scooter, and Car rental is possible very close to the harbor.

Public transport on Iriomote is rather limited, but most lodges on the island offer free transfers to/from the nearest port, and both Anei and Yaeyama operate free shuttle services timed to meet ferry departures.

By bus

Iriomote Kōtsū runs 5 services per day in each direction from Shirahama to Funaura (30 min, ¥390), 3 of which continue across the north coast to Ohara on the east (from Funaura 50 min, ¥670). Tell the driver where you're going when getting on and pay when you get off. A three-day bus pass is also offered at ¥1000 per person.

On foot

The 20-km-long and demanding "Iriomote-jima Island Nature Trail" crosses the island. The southern terminus is over 1 km from the Ohara port, and not labeled well, so a north-to-south passage, beginning with the Urauchi River cruise, is the recommended route. The jungle is home to habu vipers, which though rare, are venomous. After a Japanese hiker went missing in 2003, signs now ask hikers attempting the cross-island hike to submit a proposal to the local police department.

By car

You can rent a car at several locations on the island. One of them is at a gas station just outside of the Uehara port (🌍 ). Important: An international driver licence will not suffice. An additional official translation into Japanese is required (October 2016). The same conditions apply for scooter rentals, which are also available and a fun way to explore the island.

By bike

If all else fails or you like the idea, you can rent a bike. Locks are usually not necessary and as a result you won't get one with you rental. Bikes may be a cheap alternative (as low as ¥500) but are usually very small (people up to 165 cm can ride comfortably), which makes distances beyond 3 km a nuisance.

The Uehara gas station above also rents roadster bicycles with several gears and an integrated lock. They are comfortable for people 180-cm tall and rental for several days is available.

Another place to rent out bikes, which is very close to the Uehara port, is Murata's School of Nature (🌍 ). Bikes are in good technical condition have a gear shift, but also have the size limitations as mentioned above.

See

Around a third of the island is designated as the Iriomote National Park (西表国立公園 Iriomote-kokuritsukōen), the only national park in all of Okinawa. The park's most famous denizen is the Iriomote wildcat (イリオモテヤマネコ Iriomote yamaneko), an endangered creature found only on this island. Alas, the critter is nocturnal and very rarely seen. Other more readily viewable flora and fauna include the giant mangrove trees known as sakishimasuo-no-ki, a range of water birds, and lizards, including Japan's largest lizard, a skink, reaching up to 2 feet in length.

• Iriomote Wildlife Center, on the east side of the island, provides information on Iriomote wildlife including the Yamaneko wild cat. The center is open most days until 4PM.

Urauchi River

Jungle along the Urauchi River

Urauchi River (浦内川 Urauchigawa). On the west side of the island. The longest river in Okinawa, running deep inland through dense mangroves and often likened to a little Amazon. The views can be quite spectacular, especially on a still morning.

• Cruises up the Urauchi River are probably the most popular activity on the island. ¥1,800 per person, the exact schedule changes daily but departures are frequent (every 30 minutes or so) in the mornings. Cruise commentary is Japanese only, but an English-language summary leaflet is provided. The departure point is near the Urauchibashi bus stop. Tel. [phone], .
• At the end of the 8-km cruise you can disembark at Gunkan-iwa Rock and trek for half an hour through the jungle down a well-trod path to a viewing pavilion (展望台 tenbōdai) with views of the Mariyudu Waterfalls (マリユドゥの滝 Mariyudu-no-taki). The paths can be quite muddy so boots can be useful (they will lend you some if you come back by canoe).
• Another 10 minutes from here the trail descends to the upper level of the falls. As of 2016, this section of the path is roped off due to a fallen tree.
• 5 more minutes down the main trail will take you to the Kanbirē Waterfalls (カンビレーの滝 Kanbirē-no-taki). The cross-island trail starts from here.
• You can also canoe your way up the river, which takes quite a while. Canoe rentals from ¥800/hour, or take a guided "eco tour" with boat transfer upriver for ¥8400 (one of the guides speaks English).
• On your way back, pop into the little museum on the second floor of the cruise pier building, featuring a selection of stuffed and mounted big bugs and crabs including the scary-looking yashigani (see Eat). Free.

Nakama River

• Nakama River (仲間川 Nakamagawa). On the east side of the island, accessible from Ohara. Much the same as Urauchi, except that instead of waterfalls the trail at the end leads to a giant mangrove tree said to be the largest and oldest in Japan. The 70-minute cruise costs ¥1,500.
• For jungle rivers minus the tour groups, head for Maira (前良), Shiira (後良) on the east coast or Yutsun (ユツン) on the north coast. All are suitable for canoeing.

Pinaisala Falls

• Pinaisala Falls (ピナイサーラの滝). Inland from the inlet east of Funaura (spanned by the bridge). Pinaisala Falls is the largest waterfall in Okinawa prefecture, with a height of about 55 m. Pinai means a beard and sala means a waterfall, based on the dialect in Yaeyama islands. You can see this fall like a beard man from a long distance. There are several ways to get close to the waterfall.

1. The most popular option is offered by many local tour operators and hotels who offer tours where you kayak up the river and then hike (~30 minutes) to get to the bottom of the falls. This requires a decent fitness level and is the easiest way to reach the falls. From the bottom there is a rather demanding path to hike up to the top. This is usually not part of the Kayak tour. Make sure to inquire ahead if this is on your list. One of the companies that have English speaking guides is GreenRiver.
2. Hire a guide or take a tour to go to the top and basin of this fall, it will take about 6-7 hours in round trip.
3. It is possible to hike from a parking lot close to the kayaks to the top of the waterfall by foot on your own. This requires walking through deep jungle, crossing through rivers by foot, walking muddy paths, using the occasional hand to get up some steep passages (some ropes are present), as well as a very good level of fitness. Proper shoes and plenty of water are recommended. If you are unsure you should not attempt this by yourself but hire a guide. The entrance to the path is tricky to find (a video guide and some GPS coordinates can be found on this page [German]). The hike takes 2-3 hours round trip. The views from the top are stunning. There is a steep path down to the base of the waterfall. However, you will need to hike it back up to get out, so factor in that extra time.

Other

• 🌍 Star Sand Beach (星砂の浜, Hoshizuna-no-hama) (3.5km North-west of Uehara, accessible by bus and by bicycle.). One of two beaches in Japan — the other is on Taketomi — where, for some reason, deposits of tiny white star-shaped shells regularly wash up. These days most of it ends up in bottles in souvenir shops. This area is also well suited for snorkeling. At low tide the corals form ponds that can be quite deep and semi secluded from others, so you may have to walk to get to the next pond. Coral life is limited but still worth taking a dive. The views from the terrace of the visitor center and restaurant just above the beach are beyond beautiful. If you can stand the heat and sun, make sure to sit here for a drink or some food. free; hot shower ¥300, ask to the shop. (updated Mar 2018)
• 🌍 Yubu Island (由布島 Yubujima). This tiny island is just offshore from Iriomote's east coast, accessible on carts pulled through the shallow waters by water buffalo (as featured on many a postcard). There is a tropical fruit orchard and restaurant on the island. Entry including buffalo rides (every 30 minutes) costs a steep ¥1300/650 for adults/children. You can also walk across for ¥500 when the tide is low (approx. 5 minutes through ankle-high water). The island can be visited from 9:15AM to 4:15 PM.  
• 🌍 Ida no Hama beach (イダの浜). A remote pristine beach, can only be reached by ferries from Shirahama port at the west end of the island's road. After arriving in Funauki go right and after 20-30 m turn left and follow the path to the end. For lunch, there is a nice small restaurant at the north side of the Funauki village. Just walk straight from the port, stay close to the water and don't turn left onto the path to the Ida beach. (updated May 2017)

Do

Watersports

Snorkeling and scuba diving are very popular. There is lots of virgin coral particularly on the southern coast, dolphins can frequently be spotted in the summer and Ishigaki's famed mantas also make an occasional appearance here. Dive operations are clustered on the northern shore around Uehara and Funaura. You can get leaflets of some of them at Uehara ferry terminal. Furthermore, canoeing is also very attractive. On the canoeing trip, You will find and touch magnificent mangrove forest, beautiful waterfalls and plenty of unique plants and creatures. Many tourists join in one day or half a day canoeing tour operated by local companies. Several companies have their own English website. You can apply for these tours through telephone or E-mail.

• Diving Team Unarizaki, Uehara 10-172, ☎ [phone]. One of the largest dive operators on Iriomote. Two dives from ¥13,650, full gear rental ¥5,250. Free pickup from Funaura port, Visa, MC accepted, no English spoken. 
• Canoeing and trekking tour “Kazaguruma”, Uehara 870-60, ☎ [phone]. This well-famed company provide various kinds of canoeing and trekking tours from approximately ¥7,000～, Free pick-up and drop-off in west area of Iriomote. Visa, MC, AMEX accepted, free-shoe rental. Tours in English are available. 

Buy

A statue of the Iriomote cat in the mangrove forest

The Yamaneko wildcat may be elusive in real life, but it's difficult to avoid in souvenir shops, which plaster the poor creature on every surface imaginable. Many Yamaneko souvenirs are also sold on Ishigaki.

Eat and drink

Iriomote has a scattering of places to eat, most of which double up as izakaya watering holes in the evening. But be aware that it's easy to find yourself wanting to eat lunch with no lunch in the vicinity. Though Uehara offers more tourist-targeted food options, Ohara is the larger settlement on the island, with a number of bars and restaurants.

Local specialties include pineapple and the smaller, sweeter local variety, the peach-pineapple (ピーチパイン）、available only in the summer, as well as coconut crab (ヤシガニ, yashigani), the ferocious-looking armor-plated main battle tank of the crab world (¥3000+ per critter). If you stroll along the island's trails, you will probably see traces of wild boar, and perhaps some caught in a trap. Its meat is available in izakaya (even as sashimi!). Fruits and vegetables are often available at unmanned roadside stalls.

• Iriomote Caffe (西表カフェ）, Uehara 868 (near the Urauchi River bridge, take bus Urauchibashi), ☎ [phone]. Light snacks and cold drinks. Outdoor terrace with river views. 6 windmills will lead your way to the cafe. Before it was named Court Chalet Plaza but now it is called iriomote cafe. This European-bar styled cafe located near the Urauchigawa cruise pier offers a fair selection of local souvenirs, and has a café-restaurant and rental eco-car. Open 10:30 AM until sunset daily. 
• Hook, ☎ [phone]. Th-Tu noon-10PM. Uehara 99-1 (near Unarizaki). Pleasant beachside café offering views out into the bay and a selection of daily set lunches with drink for ¥1000. 
• Shinhachi Shokudo (新八食堂), Uehara (1 min. west of the harbor). Good soki soba and other wholesome meals, and packed with locals.
• Densa Shokudo (デンサー食堂), Uehara (directly across from the harbor). Soba and teishoku meals, lunch only.

Sleep

Pineapple-Kan

Accommodation in Iriomote is typically either very expensive or very cheap in old houses.

Budget

• Iriomote Shizen Gakkō (西表自然学校), Uehara 984 (2 min west of the harbor), ☎ [phone]. Dormitory beds are no longer available, but there is a private guest room available for ¥3000 per person per night (¥3500 for single person). The facilities are basic, and if it rains there is a leak in the roof. The bathroom and toilet is one room with no dividers. 
• Minshuku Yamaneko (民宿やまねこ), Haimi 201-216 (3 min. west of the ohara harbor), ☎ [phone]. There is a private guest room available for ¥2000 a night. The facilities are basic, and the bathroom and toilet are two room with dividers. 

Mid-range

• Villa Unarizaki (ヴィラうなりざき), Uehara 10-172 (2 min from Sumiyoshi bus stop), ☎ [phone]. Japanese-style lodge operated by Diving Team Unarizaki and populated mostly by divers. A night with two meals in a spartan but air-con equipped private tatami room is ¥5,250/6,825 with/without own bathroom; during the summer and vacation high seasons a ¥500 surcharge is applied along with a ¥4,100 "single fee" if you want your own room. Fancier villas are also available from ¥9,450 per person. 
• Pine-Kan (民宿パイン館), ☎ [phone]. Minshuku (B&B) shaped like a pineapple. Free pickup, free air-con, and in the summer, free all-you-can-eat pineapple. The owner's specialty is the smaller, sweeter peach-pineapple. From ¥5000 or without for ¥3000 (high season surcharge ¥1000). 
• 🌍 Iriomote Monsoon (西表島モンスーン) (About 2 km south of Uehara), ☎ [phone]. Overlooking the bay south of Uehara, this tranquil setting offers 6 Japanese style tatami rooms and tours including kayaking and hiking to the Pinaisala Falls, snorkeling, and horse riding. Staff only speak Japanese. ¥3000. 
• Kanpira-sou (カンピラ荘) (Right next to Uehara Port - turn right at the main road.), ☎ [phone]. Check-out: 9am. Kanpira-sō is a conveniently-placed minshuku (B&B) right next to Uehara Port. Rooms are Japanese-style with futon, and prices start from ¥3000 a night without meals. The staff don't speak much English, but are willing to book any tours for you. ¥3000. 
• Irumote-sō (turn left after exiting Uehara port; it's uphill about 15 minutes by foot), ☎ [phone]. Check-out: 9AM. Irumote-sō is minshuku (B&B) that has been running since 1974. It started off as a Youth Hostel, but as the years went on, new wings and detached units were added. The minshuku covers an extensive area with beautiful palm trees, gardens, and even a pond. It also is on the hill clearly overlooking Uehara port and Hatoma Island. The owner, Seki, built the minshuku with her own hands and also is an authority on Japanese and Okinawan cuisine. There are three packages: Youth Hostel Members Low Season: ¥3100, Private Room: ¥4600 (Pairs are cheaper), Pension Suite: ¥7300 (Private toilet room and bathtub or detached unit from main building) ¥3000. 

Splurge

• Painu Maya Resort, Takana 243, ☎ [phone]. A self-proclaimed "nature hotel" associated with and located next to Iriomotejima Onsen. Rack rates from ¥15,500/person in the low season.