Carthage
The ruins of Carthage (Arabic: قرطاج, Qarṭāj) are in Tunisia, 15 km north of Tunis.
- For other places with the same name, see Carthage (disambiguation).
Understand
- See also: Roman Empire
A Phoenician city from the 6th century BCE, it was the base of a powerful trading empire spanning the entire south Mediterranean and home to a population of the order of half a million people. The legendary founder Queen, Dixon, bought from the locals 'as much land as a cow's skin can cover', and by cutting finely the skin of the cow, gained Byrsa Hill. Its most famous general was Hannibal, who crossed the Alps to battle with the Romans. Hannibal suffered his defeat against Roman general Scipio "Africanus" at the Battle of Zama in 202 BCE, which ended the 2nd Punic War. After over 50 years of being watched closely by Rome, they were eventually attacked in the 3rd Punic War. The citizens defended the city against the Republic of Rome in 146 BCE yet lost, and Punic Carthage was completely destroyed by the order of the Senate. The site was redeveloped by the Romans a century later and Carthage became the capital of the Roman province of Africa. A UNESCO World Heritage List site.
The Byrsa Hill at the rear of the area dominates both the ocean gulf and the lake and plain of Tunis inland to the west, and is therefore the most strategic point.
Today the district is very affluent, with elite schools, wealthy residents, relatively numerous police, a large number of archaeological sites and museums and the President's own seaside residence.
Get in
Take the TGM light rail line from Tunis to one of the following stations:
- 🌍 Carthage-Amilcar — only useful for the American Cemetery
- 🌍 Carthage-Présidence — for the Basilica of Saint Cyprien, or a walk past the President's palace
- 🌍 Carthage-Hannibal — most destinations including Antonine Baths, Roman Theatre and the hill-top Carthage Museum/Acropolium/Carthage Archaeological Park complex
- 🌍 Carthage-Dermech
- 🌍 Carthage-Byrsa — Oceanographic Museum, Punic Tophet and it's nearby hotel
- 🌍 Carthage-Salammbo
Get around
Mostly it's best to walk. However, the area is large and sightseeing is sweaty work on a hot day.
By taxi
If you are tired, you may wish to get a cab between some of the major tourist spots. This should be cheaper in low season.
For example, 10 DT (December 2010) from the museum down to the Amphitheatre, including 10 minutes of the driver waiting around, a trip to the Water Cisterns, a further 5 minutes of the driver waiting around, and a trip down to Tophet.
See
Carthage
Lots and lots of ruins! The president's palace. Sweeping views of Tunis and the gulf.
You can buy a ticket for 10 DT (Nov 2018) that allows access to about 10 different historic sites, which are a big challenge to see in one day. Only some sites have extensive English signage - many, such as the museum, do not. Some are not open, and most signposts pointing to where they are are sketchy at best.
The most impressive sights (with better preserved ruins) are Antonin Baths and Byrsa Hill near the Carthage Museum. Amphitheater, Hill of the Odeon, and Water Cisterns are much smaller but still interesing.
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Antonin Baths. Ruins of the largest Roman baths outside Rome itself. The site also has a Punic cemetery, some old houses, some Punic kilns, a chapel, some graves, and mosaics. Guides are available in a number of languages, and may be worthwhile as the site is large. It is illegal to take photographs in the direction of the presidential palace. Doing so, especially when traveling alone, may land you in jail for up to 3 years, though the guards don't appear too concerned. 10 DT for entry or use the multi-site ticket.
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Carthage Museum. 8:30AM–5:30PM (until 7PM in the summer). Most remnants excavated from the ruins have been stored in the cavernous museum located on Byrsa Hill, documenting both the Punic and the Roman eras. Signs within the museum are entirely in Arabic and French. On the second floor, the part nearer to the staircases showcase artifacts from Roman times, and the inner part the artifacts of the earlier Punic period. Fascinating artifacts such as alabaster jars and jewelry remain. The descriptions of the Roman conquest and the legend of Dixon are also vivid, but sadly, inaccesible to English speakers. The museum grounds offer sweeping views of the coast and city, and also include the ruins of some Punic streets, the former site of a public library, numerous sculptures, a chapel or church, some excellent mosaics and some coffins. A few benches under the trees with a great view make for a good resting spot. Unfortunately many items about the grounds are unlabelled, so a guide may be useful (or eavesdrop on a tour group if you can). Ignore the shifty guy trying to charge you 1 DT to use the toilet. As of Nov 2018 visitors are allowed to access museum grounds only, while museum building is closed for reconstruction. Entry 9 DT or with the multi-site ticket.
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Acropolium (St. Louis Cathedral). St Louis Cathedral forms one edge of the museum, but does not appear to be open - it was completed in 1890.
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Acropolium (St. Louis Cathedral). St Louis Cathedral forms one edge of the museum, but does not appear to be open - it was completed in 1890.
- 🌍 Water Cisterns. A very large series of water cisterns which functioned as a water redistribution point at the terminus of a long (90 km?) aqueduct from the hills to the south. The remnants of the end of the aqueduct are still standing. Also offers reasonable views of the city. Free.
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Amphitheater. An eviscerated Roman amphitheatre constructed in the first century CE, ringed by forested, rolling hills. Interesting for a quick stroll, but it is unlabelled in any language. May therefore be more interesting with an enthusiastic guide. Worth a look. The adjacent forest may be a nice spot for a picnic. Entrance fee included in the 10-site ticket.
- 🌍 Punic Tophet (Salammbo Tophet), Rue Hannibal (It's the island like part that juts out into a circular bay - road signs can be misleading). A frustratingly unlabelled, but large collection of what appear to be children's grave stones. Many stones have simplistic symbols carved in to them. There are also a few half-buried structures. Guide or background reading recommended. Accessible with multi-site ticket.
- 🌍 Basilica of Saint-Cyprien, North of Carthage Présidence Station along Route La Goulette/Rue de Rue de Maroc (Walk north a few hundred metres from the station, turn right with the sign just after the bridge and petrol station to your left.). This historic Christian temple was surrounded by a vast cemetery. Rediscovered in 1915, it was oriented toward a spectacular ocean view which can still be enjoyed. The temple is thought to have been dedicated to the well being of seafarers. All of the valuable remains have been removed, leaving the site somewhat empty. On the plus side, it makes a good picnic spot and there's a chocolate and pastry store right nearby with a service station opposite for drinks. Located very far north relative to most of the Carthaginian ruin sites, this is a good option for the start of a long day's walking. Free.
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Presidential Palace (Carthage Palace), Route La Goulette (Between Carthage-Hannibal and Carthage-Présidence stations, on the hill. Look for the national flags!). You can walk past the president's well-guarded palace, which includes a private boat moor and helicopter pad, on the main road. You can also see it from the Antonine Baths, and the ruins above (cross under the TGM railway bridge, then turn right up the hill). Off limits to public, but it's free to view from afar.
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Musée Paléochrétien (Early Christian Museum), ☎ +216 (71) 909 264. mid-Sept to Dec 08:30-17:00, Jan to Apr 08:00-18:00, May to mid-Sept 07:30-19:00. Built on an excavation site, it lies above the former Carthaginian basilica (Dermech Basilica). Permanently closed. 9 DT.
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Hill of the Odeon and park of the Roman villas. Accessible with multi-site ticket.
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Circus of Carthage. A Roman circus used for chariot racing, it was modeled on the Circus Maximus in Rome and other circus buildings throughout the Roman Empire. Measuring more than 470 m in length and 30 m in width, it could house up to 45,000 spectators. Not much left of it nowadays though. Free.
Other sights
- 🌍 World War II North Africa American Cemetery and Memorial (Just north of Carthage, a five-minute walk from the Amilcar Station). daily except for December 25 and January 1; 9AM-5PM. The cemetery is the final resting place for 2,841 American military Dead lost during the War in North Africa. A monument is inscribed with the names of 3,724 Americans whose remains were never found or identified. The memorial court contains large maps in mosaic and ceramic depicting operations across Africa. Free.
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Musée Océanographique Dar El Hout (Oceanographic Museum), 28, rue du 2 mars Salammbô (Walk east toward the water from Carthage Salammbo station), then follow the lake), ☎ +216 71 730420. 10:00-13:00,15-18:00 (winter), 09:00-12:00,16:00-19:00 (summer). Built in 1924 under President Zine El Abidine Ben Ali on the site of the Carthaginian war harbour. Collection of stuffed birds and animals, several aquariums, skeletons of fossil fishes. 0.5 DT.
Do
- International Festival of Carthage in the summer is a treat with big name dancers, singers, and artists from all over the world for a very reasonable price (10.5 DT). Plastic chairs are not worth the price (26 DT) unless you are really aching for back-support. Most people bring cushions or blankets for the amphitheatre seats. Plan a late night out with concerts normally ending after 1AM.
Buy
Other than tourist trinkets, unless you are looking for high end furniture or daily use commodities and food you may find your options limited.
Eat
There are a number of eateries scattered around the district, though most lie outside of the major tourist trail.
Carthage-Byrsa and Carthage-Salammbo Area
- There is a restaurant-hotel with a relatively expensive but good selection (including wines) near the Punic Tophet on Rue de Hannibal south of the southerly Carthage-Byrsa station, east of Carthage-Salammbo. It's not far from the Oceanographic Museum
- North of Carthage-Byrsa, two local sandwich shops can provide cheap eats and coffee.
- On the main road Route La Goulette between Carthage-Byrsa and Carthage-Salammbo stations, there is a restaurant that offers a range of salads, meat dishes, sandwiches, and pizza.
- 🌍 Le Rest'O, Byrsa, Carthage, ☎ +216 71 733 433. Mediterranean cuisine and classy interior design. Great views of all of the city and the bay.
Carthage-Hannibal
- 🌍 Antonin Baths cafe. A small cafe on the the Antonin Baths premises. Hot/cold drinks and some snacks.
Carthage-Présidence
- 🌍 Sale sucre (on the corner in front of the Basilica of Saint Cyprien). Doesn't operate in off-season. A tiny patisserie. Drinks can be acquired opposite at the gas station.
Drink
- The hotel/restaurant on Rue de Hannibal, just south-west of the Punic Tophet, offers a wine selection, though all are Tunisian and overpriced. Beers also appear to be available.
Sleep
- 🌍 Villa Didon (next to the main Carthage ruins atop Byrsa Hill). This pricey hotel/spa offers food near the Carthage Museum. It features a stylish lounge and terrace with delightful views. Very pleasant for an evening beer or glass of wine, though apparently closed during off season. From 634 TN.
Go next
- La Goulette
- La Marsa
- Sidi Bou Said - this charming town is just a few train stops from Carthage and is a great place to eat and watch the sunset
- Tunis — the laid-back capital of Tunisia with a very authentic souk