Łódź
Łódź (Pronounced: Wootch) is Poland's third biggest city, and the capital of the Łódzkie Voivodship. Unlike most other large Polish cities, which have long histories, Łódź was created almost from scratch during the 19th century textile industry boom to house textile mills, their owners and their workers, and rapidly grew to become an important industrial and commerce centre. In recent years, Łódź has been battling rising unemployment and youth migration resulting from the failing textile industry and is repositioning itself as a hub for design and creative industries.
Owing to its history, Łódź has an impressive collection of residential, commercial and industrial 19th-century architecture including some of Europe's largest factory buildings, now mostly repurposed as shopping centres or lofts. Recent local investment and a long-standing cultural scene ensures there is always something more to do than just sightseeing or shopping, with the city hosting some of the best museums and art galleries in the country. The close proximity of Warsaw and Łódź's location at the crossroads of the Polish motorway system make it an ideal destination for a day trip or longer city break.
Understand
Name and history
The origin of the city's name is unknown, however, the word łódź translates to "boat" in English. This is referred to in the emblem and when you hear the dwellers of Łódź (łodzianin (man) łodzianka (woman) łodzianie (plural)) calling themselves "the boat people".
A settlement on the area of present-day Łódź was established in the 14th century and in 1423 it was granted a town charter, along with the right to have a marketplace. However, the real development of Łódź started with the industrial era at the beginning of the 19th century when the city was chosen to be the heart of the rapidly-growing textile industry. The population of Łódź soared from some 4,000 people in the 1830s and 40,000 in 1865 to over 300,000 inhabitants at the turn of the century, which was an unprecedented growth on a worldwide scale.
The rapid development of Łódź in the second half of the 19th century was brought about by the rise of enormous industrialist fortunes. New inhabitants, craftsmen and merchants came to Łódź; markets and town fairs came to life. The profits obtained from prosperous textile mills opened up practically unlimited possibilities for their owners. The city residences became expressions of the riches and power of the local tycoons. They were usually situated next to the owner's factory.
Ever since the industrial revolution brought a massive influx of workforce, Łódź had been a city almost equally divided between four cultures - Polish, Jewish, German and Russian. The day before the outbreak of World War II, Łódź was inhabited by approximately 672,000 people, among whom 35% were of Jewish faith and some 15% were ethnic German. Andrzej Wajda's movie, Promised Land based on a novel by the Nobel laureate Władysław Reymont, depicts those times and is a worthwhile introduction to the city's bustling history.
During the Nazi occupation, Łódź was incorporated directly into the Third Reich. The city was renamed to Litzmannstadt, and Piotrkowska Street was called Adolf-Hitler-Strasse. The Jewish community was practically wiped out, and many others lost their lives. Although the city was not destroyed in the aftermath, the material losses were serious as the machinery, raw materials and finished goods were taken away by the fleeing Nazis. The day before the liberation, about 80,000 Germans left Łódź in panic. At the beginning of 1945, the population was estimated at 300,000.
Łódź today
Since the fall of communism in Poland, Łódź has not enjoyed the rapid economic growth cities like Kraków, Warsaw and Wrocław have experienced, and has had to endure the fall of much of its textile industry, high unemployment and emigration (within Poland and abroad). This led to further dilapidation of the investment-starved city, and many of its streets and buildings show profound signs of neglect. At first glance, for a city of 760,000 and agglomeration of 1,428,000, there does not seem to be much to see. However, the situation is rapidly changing now with Łódź campaigning and redesigning itself as an up-and-coming destination. To accomplish this, Łódź has been capitalizing on its film history - Łódź is jokingly referred to as the "HollyŁódź" of Poland and hosts several film festivals and many other cultural events.
Łódź today may not have the glitz and glamour of its heyday; however, there is a certain charm to Łódź in its partially renovated façades and leitmotivs, not to mention its grand artistic traditions.
Orientation
The main tourist office is at Piotrkowska 87 Street. You should also be able to get a map and some tips at the airport.
Łódź is divided into five districts:
- Śródmieście - central downtown area
- Polesie - western residential area
- Widzew - eastern industrial and residential area
- Bałuty - northern industrial and residential area
- Górna - southern residential area
Śródmieście encompasses most of the historic architecture and points of interest. There is not much for a tourist to see outside of Śródmieście and areas directly neighbouring its borders.
Get in
By plane
- 🌍 Łódź Władysław Reymont Airport (LCJ IATA) (approximately 6 km from the city center). One of the smallest airports in Poland. As of 2018, it offers few connections, mainly served by Ryanair to Dublin, London Stansted, East Midlands and Athens, and by Lufthansa to Munich. Apart from that, the airport serves seasonal and charter flights to holiday destinations.
To travel between the city and the airport:
- Public transport, buses 65A and 65B serve the airport. Read more in the public transport section.
- Taxi, in front of the terminal there is a number of taxis to choose from.
The marginalisation of Łódź's own airport is due to the proximity of the Warsaw's Chopin Airport (WAW), which offers a wide range of European and intercontinental flights. Warsaw's other airport, Modlin Airport (served by Ryanair only), is farther away. OKbus offers a direct connection between Łódź and both airports.
By train
See also Poland#By train
- Łódź Fabryczna is a centrally-located terminal station for domestic trains.
- Łódź Widzew is a station east of the center, which handles most intercity traffic to and from Łódź. You can get there on trams number 8, 9 and 10 and many buses (if travelling by tram, you need to alight at the Rondo Inwalidów stop and walk alongside Adamieckiego street).
- Łódź Kaliska is a station west of the center that, as of 2018, does not handle any transit trains and offers connections mainly to nearby towns around Łódź such as Sieradz or Kutno.
By car
Łódź lies at the centre of Poland's road and highway system. The nearby city of Stryków is important motorway junction, where two of the most important motorways cross each other:
- The A2 E30 runs from Berlin to Warsaw (through Poznań). The section between Berlin and Konin requires hefty tolls. An alternative is taking the former country road no. 2 .
- The A1 between Gdańsk and Katowice is to be completed in 2013. The 1 E75 is its country road equivalent.
The planned A8 highway to Wrocław has been downgraded in plans to S8 expressway.
By bus
Flixbus serves Berlin, Prague, Warsaw, Wrocław, Gdansk, Katowice and Poznań. They offer free onboard Wi-Fi and the tickets should be bought online beforehand for the best price. Buses depart from Łódź Fabryczna bus station (adjacent to the train station).
Eurolines serves many European routes.
Small minibus and bus companies offer connections between Łódź and number of cities (big and small) around Poland. While most of these depart from Łódź Fabryczna station, there are also buses (operated by OKbus) that go to Warsaw Chopin (Okęcie) and Warsaw Modlin airports from Łódź Kaliska station. The Czech bus company Leoexpress connects Łódź Fabryczna railway station with Warsaw Chopin airport as well as with Warszawa Zachodnia bus terminal and Warszawa Centralna main railway station.
Get around
The Ultimate Trams Łódź was one of the first cities in Poland to have a tramway system in 1898 and today has one the longest tram links in Europe between Zdrowie and Ozorków (line 46 - operated by replacement buses as Z46 for the duration of track repairs). |
On foot
Depending on your level of fitness, you can see the whole of the city center without needing any transport. However, for some attractions like the Old Jewish Cemetery or Botanical Garden you will be better off taking a bus.
In winter snow is sometimes not removed from the sidewalks, resulting in a mixture of snow and mud. Be sure to bring waterproof shoes if you plan to travel on foot in the winter.
By bike
A bicycle sharing system was implemented in Łódź in 2016. There are 154 bike stations available and 1540 bikes for rent. You need to register with a fee of 20zł, but if you return the bike within 20 minutes no money is charged. For more information and the full tariff, see the ŁRP website (available in English). Bikes are not available in the winter season.
Public transport
The public transport system is operated by MPK-Łódź (apart from two bus lines: 6 and 61, operated by other companies, but the same tickets are valid within city limits; don't mistake the bus line 6 with the tram line 6, which has the same number, but is operated by MPK). It is definitely the cheapest way of moving around the city. The descriptions on the bus and tram stops are in Polish only, but they should be easy to follow. See the Polish phrasebook if you feel uncomfortable. Click here for MPK's official site . For schedules of buses and trams see also jakdojade.pl (available in English). Outside of the rush hour (07:00-09:00 and 15:00-18:00), the public transport is quite efficient and runs on time. During the rush hours and in winter (during snowy conditions) be prepared for some delays.
Łódź is divided into two ticket zones: inner-city and suburban (the division doesn't concern 20-minute, 40-minute and 60-minute tickets). The inner-city tickets are valid within the city borders, while the suburban ones - in the neighbouring towns and villages serviced by the Łódź public transport system (with some exceptions in the towns of Zgierz and Pabianice, which will be explained later on).
Some of the lines have variants marked by different letters. In the case of some lines there are only two of those (9A and 9B, or 10A and 10B), but with some lines there are as many as five (53A-E). Always check the timetable, where all the information is always included.
Current ticket prices for the inner city (valid from 20 October 2017)
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Every ticket allows you to change the vehicle an unlimited number of times within the ticket time (waiting time at the bus or tram stop also counts, so be careful if you have a "short" ticket and a long connection). There are also reduced fare tickets (50% off the regular price), but these can be used only if you have valid documentation with yourself (e.g. a student ID of a Polish university or an ISIC card) as it will be requested during the ticket control.
Validate your ticket immediately after you enter a bus or a tram - it should be the first thing you do. It is advisable to buy tickets beforehand in numerous newspaper kiosks and small groceries. There are also ticket machines at selected spots in the city, usually near busy sites in the city centre, and these accept both cash and cards. Most of the vehicles (except those operating bus lines 6 and 61) are equipped with ticket machines, but the majority of these accept only payment by card. If the ticket machine in the vehicle is out of order and you run into ticket control, you can buy a ticket for 4.40 zł (cash only) from the controllers and avoid the penalty fee. This does not include situations in which the machine is only temporarily blocked, so the regulations leave some room for interpretation and it is a good idea to buy the ticket before boarding the vehicle. It is not possible to buy tickets from the driver.
Tickets valid for longer than 24 hours are written onto an electronic card called "Migawka"; you can buy them in a few dozen sales points listed here: . Tickets valid for longer than 5 days are available in two versions - bearer and personal. Personal tickets are cheaper, but they must be ordered in advance (online or at one of 5 MPK customer service points ) and you must attach a photo.
There are also several mobile phone payment systems for buying tickets. Callpay uses premium numbers (there is no need to register or download any application), while Mpay, Mobilet, Skycash and Unibank all offer pre-paid e-purses accessible through a mobile phone application. Unfortunately, only Skycash offers an English website, but there is still no English application.
Travelling with any luggage (within reason) or a bicycle is free of charge. During the summer, there is a special summer schedule with a reduced number of departures for most of the lines.
All traffic info (mainly disruptions) is posted in real-time on the Facebook page MPK-Łódź Traffic.
By tram
There are 18 tram lines (1-18, with variants) serving the city proper and two suburban tram lines (41 and 43). Line 10 (both variants) is served by low-floor trams throughout the day. With other lines, you are likely to find yourself boarding one of the older trams with no access for the disabled. If there is a change in the schedule (in other words, if something fails), the substitute bus lines are marked with either the Z or KZ abbreviation (for "komunikacja zastępcza" - "substitute transport"), or the number of the substituted tram. The tram line map is here . Because of the renovations of the tram tracks, some lines have been closed and are served by substitute buses. Such long-term substitute buses are marked with the letter Z and a number, often being a number of the replaced tram line - for example Z2 for a bus substituting tram number 2 (but it's not a rule).
Tourist Tram Line
Łódź has one of the oldest tram networks in Poland, which dates back to the 19th century. One of the attractions during the summer is taking the 'Tourist Tram Line' (43) , which goes from the area of Liberty Square in Łódź (the beginning of Piotrkowska street) through the town of Konstantynów Łódzki to the village of Lutomiersk. Łódź public transport tickets (both inner-city and suburban) are valid. You can also buy tickets from the tram crew dressed in historical costumes.
By bus
The buses are the backbone of the public transport in Łódź. Almost all of the buses are the easily accessible low-floor buses. The bus line map (also including trams) is here .
Night buses
There are 8 night bus lines and they serve extreme points of the city. There is no fare increase compared to other public transport services, so you can use ordinary tickets on the night lines. All the night lines have a common stop at Kościuszki/Zielona intersection and depart every hour starting at 22:30 on weekdays and every 30 minutes on weekends. Be fast to board your bus as they stand in a long line and all depart at the same time! The night bus map is here .
Suburban trams and buses
The public transport system of Łódź also connects the city with neighbouring towns and villages. It is divided into two zones: the inner city and the suburban zone (the division doesn't concern 20-minute, 40-minute or 60-minute tickets, which are valid in both zones and allow crossing from one to the other). The towns of Zgierz and Pabianice have their own public transport systems and their own tickets. Outside the borders of Łódź, it is important to know which tickets you should use.
The suburban tickets of the public transport of Łódź are valid in:
- all the trams and buses within the borders of Łódź
- all the trams outside the borders of Łódź
- all the buses outside the borders of Łódź, except the local lines in Zgierz (including lines 6 and 61 that connect the town with Łódź; lines Z45 and Z46 are operated by MPK Łódź and require regular Łódź public transport tickets) and Pabianice.
The tickets of the public transport of Pabianice are valid in:
- local buses in Pabianice
The tickets of the public transport of Zgierz are valid in:
- buses in Zgierz - local ones and those connecting Zgierz with Łódź (6 and 61), but only within the borders of Zgierz
Travelling from Łódź to Zgierz by one of the bus lines: 6 or 61, you have to validate a new ticket at the border stop (marked in the timetable with a hash: #).
Travelling beyond Łódź city limits, you need to have a valid ticket for the suburban zone from the moment you cross the border stop (marked in the timetable with a hash: #). If you possess, for example, a monthly inner-city ticket for Łódź, and you are going to Pabianice by tram (41), you have to validate a 40-minute Łódź ticket (or another one that is valid in the suburban zone) at the Mały Skręt stop. Of course, you can have a suburban zone ticket for the whole journey, including the part within Łódź.
The map of both inner-city and suburban lines in the Łódź metropolitan areas is available here: .
By train
Several train stops scattered throughout the city complement the city's public transport system. Łódź public transport tickets (same as for buses and trams) are valid on all trains operated by Polregio and ŁKA (Łódzka Kolej Aglomeracyjna) companies within city limit. For long-distance trains operated by PKP Intercity you need a separate ticket. If you want to make sure your station lies within city limits, check for the name of the city in the station name (the only exception is Lublinek, which despite lacking 'Łódź' in its name still lies within city boundaries). Check the bus and tram system maps above for the location of train stations.
By car
Driving in Łódź is quite easy and the rules of the road are adhered to. Pedestrians and bicycles have a right-of-way on pedestrian and bike crossings. During the rush hour, you may expect large traffic jams on the main arterial roads (Mickiewicza, Kopcińskiego, Pabianicka, Włokniarzy, Jana Pawła II, Paderewskiego, Śmigłego-Rydza, Rzgowska, Kościuszki, Strykowska and Zgierska).
Local and international car rental agencies can arrange a car for you when you arrive at the airport . When parking in the city center within the marked paid parking area, make sure you pay the parking fee. The fee is 2 zł per every hour (or 10 zł per day or 40 zł per week). You only have to pay when you park between 8:00 and 18:00 on weekdays, and weekends and holidays are free. You may also park on a privately-owned parking lot in the center. A parking attendant will approach you then and put a piece of paper behind the wiper with the time you started parking. When leaving, you will have the pay the fee - it is usually the same as for the public parking (or slightly more).
You can buy a daily pass directly at the parking lot, but to buy at least a weekly pass, you will need to go to Zarząd Dróg i Transportu (Road and Transport Authority) at ul. Piotrkowska 171/173 (Tuesdays 09:30-16:00, every other weekday 08:30-15:30) and buy it there.
Taxis
Taxis are another option to consider, and are quite cheap for a westerner. However, one should be sure that there is a taxi sign atop the cab and that the driver has a permit. 9622, 600400400 and 9191 are some of the known companies and they all have exactly same prices.
Rickshaws
On Piotrkowska Street, you can travel any distance on a rickshaw for 2.50 zł per person. It gets to 4.00 zł in the night and most of the rikshaw drivers will take you out of Piotrkowska if you offer to pay more.
See
Łódź is well known for its architectural monuments which form a record of the city's heritage, particularly its unique 19th century development. Since 1989, the city of Łódź has rediscovered its industrial heritage, a unique ensemble of architecture, preserved despite two world wars.
- 🌍 Piotrkowska street. It is one of the longest commercial streets in Europe and one of the major attractions in the city. It runs in a straight line from the Liberty Square (Plac Wolności) to the Independence Square (Plac Niepodległości). Many pubs, bars, restaurants, and attractions are on this street.
- Łódź Walk of Fame (Aleja Gwiazd), ul. Piotrkowska (Between 6 Sierpnia Street and Rubinstein Passage). Being the Polish Hollywood, Łódź has its own Walk of Fame. Some of the names are Pola Negri, Roman Polański or Andrzej Wajda.
- Old Market Square (Rynek Starego Miasta), ul. Kilinskiego 56 (Next to Staromiejski Park). Was once incorporated into the Ghetto. It now serves as a venue for concerts and fairs.
- The Decalogue Memorial (Pomnik Dekalogu w Łodzi), ul. Kilinskiego 56 (In the Staromiejski Park). It is a tribute to the coexistence of Poles and Jews. The memorial is close to the Old Market Square in Staromiejski Park.
- Litzmannstadt Ghetto (Getto Łódzkie). The Litzmannstadt Ghetto was the second largest Jewish ghetto in Poland after the Warsaw Ghetto. It is referred to as both the Łódź Ghetto and the Litzmannstadt Ghetto, the latter name coming from the German general who captured the city in World War I (the entire city was later renamed Litzmannstadt in his honor). The ghetto was the last one to be liquidated due to the high productivity of the slave laborers and lack of armed resistance. See Holocaust remembrance for context.
Palaces and mansions
- 🌍 Poznański Palace (Pałac Poznańskiego), ul. Ogrodowa 15 (Next to Manufaktura complex). A beautiful 19th-century building that was built by Izrael Poznański - a textile magnate and a philanthropist. Today it holds the Museum of the City of Łódź.
- 🌍 Ludwik Geyer's Mansion (Dworek Ludwika Geyera), ul. Piotrkowska 286 (Near the Independence Square). A classicist mansion built in 1833 by Ludwik Geyer - one of the textile magnates. It is a privately owned property.
- Karol Scheibler's Palace (Pałac Karola Scheiblera), Plac Zwycięstwa (Next to Księży Młyn). Neo-Renaissance palace today hosts the Film Museum.
- Leopold Kindermann's Villa (Willa Leopolda Kindermanna), ul. Wólczańska 31/33 (between Zielona and 6 Sierpnia Streets). One of the most important examples of art nouveau architecture in Łódź. Built in 1903, it houses Łódź's Art Gallery.
Former factories
- 🌍 Manufaktura (Centrum Manufaktura), between Zachodnia, Ogrodowa, Karskiego and Drewnowska streets (the easiest way to get there is from Zachodnia Street which is the extension of Kościuszki Street). It is the largest shopping mall in the city and occupies old factory buildings.
- White Factory (Biała Fabryka Geyera), ul. Piotrkowska 282. This old factory holds the city's Textile Museum. It's next to a small lake, and is very nicely lit during the evenings.
- Księży Młyn (Next to Źródliska Park). A large complex of 19th-century textile factories.
- Kopisch's bleachery (Bielnik Kopischa), ul. Tymienieckiego 5 (Just east off the Cathedral Square). It is the oldest (built in 1826) preserved building connected with textile Łódź.
Religious buildings
- 🌍 Alexander Nevsky Cathedral (Sobór św. Aleksandra Newskiego w Łodzi), ul. Kilinskiego 56 (On the intersection with Narutowicza Street, close to Łódź Fabryczna station). A rare example of Orthodox architecture in Poland.
- St. Joseph's Church (Kościół św. Józefa), ul. Ogrodowa 22 (Near the Manufaktura mall), ☎ +48 42 633 45 37. Open during mass only. This is the oldest building in the city - the only one built in the pre-industry period.
- 🌍 Jewish cemetery (Cmentarz Żydowski w Łodzi), Entrance from ul. Zmienna (Bałuty district). From Sunday to Friday (except Jewish holidays, when it is closed) 1 April - 1 November 09:00 till 17:00. From 2 November till 31 March, 09:00 till 15:00. For centuries, Poland was home to the largest Jewish community in the world. Jewish people also strongly influenced the history of Łódź. This is the largest Jewish cemetery in Europe. 6 zł (On every first Sunday in month admission free.).
- Old cemetery (Stary Cmentarz w Łodzi), ul. Ogrodowa 43 (Next to Manufaktura). The most important active cemetery in Łódź. Here you will find one of the most exquisite sacral buildings in Europe, the Karol Scheibler's Chapel.
- 🌍 Karol Scheibler's Chapel (Kaplica Karola Scheiblera), ul. Ogrodowa 43 (Evangelical - Augsburg part of the Old Cemetery). This chapel was for a long time neglected and its condition deteriorated, however, today, works are on the way to improve its past glory.
Museums & art galleries
Łódź has a surprisingly large number of museums for a city of its size and background, which strengthens its claim as a hotbed of culture and ensures there is always somewhere to go for a visitor. Most charge a small fee, though these are good value by western standards.
- 🌍 ms1 (Muzeum Sztuki (Art Museum)), ul. Więckowskiego 36 (corner of ul. Gdanska), e-mail: muzeum@msl.org.pl. Tu 10:00-17:00, W 11:00-17:00, Th 12:00-19:00, F 11:00-17:00, Sa 10:00-16:00, Su 10:00-16:00. It was one of the first museums of modern art in Europe and has a really impressive collection of Polish and international 20th century art (for long time and arguably still the best in Poland). The building belonged to the Poznański family, same as the palace where Muzeum Historii Miasta Łodzi is located. (Tip: after leaving the museum take Gdańska street and go 50 meters up north to see the beautiful building of the Music Academy - which used to be one of the houses of Izrael Poznański. If you are confident enough you can go in (entrance on ul. 1 Maja) to see an elegant stain glass window on the first floor.) Admission: adults 7 zł, families: 13 zł; temporary exhibitions: adults: 4 zł, reduced ticket: 3 zł; free admission on Thursdays.
- 🌍 ms2 (Muzeum Sztuki squared), ul. Ogrodowa 19 (in Manufaktura), ☎ +48 42 634 39 48, fax: +48 42 634 39 62. Tu 10:00–18:00, W–Su 11:00–19:00. Ms2 is dedicated mostly to the Collection of 20th and 21st Century Art. The museum is in a building of 19th century weaving plant (former part of Poznański family textile manufacture, modern days part of shopping mal Manufactura). This museum should be considered as a extension to the ms (Muzeum Sztuki) and even the name shows that ms2 is second and also has bigger expositions area. (ms to square). One exhibition: Adults: 10 zł, Reduced ticket: 5 zł; Combined (ms1, ms2, Herbst Palace): Adults 16 zł, reduced 8 zł; Free admission on Thursdays.
- 🌍 Muzeum Historii Miasta Łodzi (Museum of the City of Łódź) (Poznański Palace), ul. Ogrodowa 15 (corner ul. Zachodnia), ☎ +48 42 6540323, fax: +48 42 6540323, e-mail: muzeum@poznanskipalace.muzeum-lodz.pl. Tu 10:00 - 16:00, W 14:00 - 18:00, Th 10:00 - 16:00, F 10:00 - 14:00, Sa 10:00 - 14:00, Su 10:00 - 14:00. Various beautiful rooms with exhibitions dedicated to some of the most famous people from Łódź including writer Julian Tuwim, pianist Artur Rubenstein, and collections of items from the daily lives of those who have lived in Łódź throughout the years. The museum is in a beautiful building called Palace Poznańskiego. One of the major attractions in Łódź.
- 🌍 Dętka (Museum of Łódź Sewage System), plac Wolności (underground, at Plac Wolności), ☎ +48 42 254 90 11, e-mail: wycieczki@muzeum-lodz.pl. Summer only. Museum of the old sewage system in a circular water tank below pl. Wolnosci, built in brick in 1926. Accommodates max. 10 people inside, no big bags, do not go in if you are claustrophobic. A great experience otherwise. 5 zł, reduced 3 zł.
- 🌍 Muzeum Archeologiczne i Ethograficzne (Museum of Ethnography and Archaeology), Plac Wolnosci 14, ☎ +48 42 632 8440. Tu Th F 10:00 - 17:00, W 09:00 - 16:00, Sa 09:00 - 15:00. The largest museum in the city, containing an exceptional collection of ancient treasures and archaeological artefacts from all around the surrounding region. Many exhibits date from as long ago as the Stone Age, and cover various periods right up to the Middle Ages.
- 🌍 Museum of Textiles (White Factory), ul. Piotrkowska 282. Mondays closed. Permanent and temporary exhibitions concerning everything connected with textiles: industry, machines and fashion. Working machines on display on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Fridays: 09:00 - 17:00, and on Thursdays: 11:00 - 15:00. 10 zł, reduced 6 zł, Saturdays free.
- Also in the complex is the Open-air Museum of the Łódź Wooden Architecture.
- Film Museum (Muzeum Kinematografii), pl. Zwycięstwa 1. Mondays closed. 10 zł, reduced 7 zł.
Parks
One of the "greenest" cities in Poland, Łódź is home to 34 public parks - 11 of which are natural monuments - and one of the largest city forests in Europe is within the city borders. Perhaps the most interesting ones are:
- 🌍 Łódź Hills Landscape Park (Park Krajobrazowy Wzniesień Łódzkich), Between Łódź and Brzeziny (Take the bus from Plac Dąbrowskiego or Academy of Art). A natural landscape reservation for walks and bike rides. 30 minutes by bus line 88 from the Academy of Art. Large part of Łagiewnicki Forest is a part of this park. Small outskirt villages in the park like Kalonka, Dobieszków or Wódka are among the most prestigious locations for house development.
- Łagiewnicki Forest (Las Łagiewnicki) (North-eastern part of the city, bus line 56). One of the largest forest complexes in the world that is within city boundaries. Arturówek lake is a very well known local attraction during the summer, there are also numerous bike paths there.
- Botanical Garden (Ogród Botaniczny), ul. Krzemieniecka 36/38 (Get there by bus 6, 76, 80, 99 or tram 9 or 43.), ☎ +48 42 688 44 20, fax: +48 42 688 44 14. May–August (09:00-20:00), April and September (09:00-19:00), October (09:00-17:00). The ticket offices close one hour before the park.. Largest botanical garden in Poland with some very interesting natural architecture and plant exhibitions. Enter from Kusocińskiego or Krzemieniecka Street. Open from 1 April until 31 October. For 30/45 zł (depending on the ticket type) you can hire an official guide. 4 zł adult, 2 zł reduced, 40 zł season ticket.
- Palm House (Park Źródliska), Plac Zwycięstwa (Right off Piłsudskiego Street). Closed on all Mondays, last week of March and July.. One of the most interesting buildings in Łódź. It is in Źródliska Park. Inside, you will many unique plants. It is estimated to have 4500 plants. For 30/45 zł (depending on the ticket type) you can hire an official guide. 6 zł adult, 3 zł reduced. Be prepared to pay for the washrooms and the obligatory changing room..
- Źródliska Park (Park Źródliska), Plac Zwycięstwa (Right off Piłsudskiego Street). The oldest park in Łódź. In 2007 it was selected the most beautiful city park in Poland and it also ranked 5th in Europe. It is in the city center on Piłsudskiego Street. Inside is Palmiarnia Łódzka.
- Józef Piłsudski Park (More popularly known as Zdrowie Park - Park na Zdrowiu), Polesie district near to City Zoo and the Botanical Garden (The easiest way to get there is by taking the 80 or 99 and dropping off at Krzemieniecka Street.). The largest park in Łódź. It is more a forest than a park with a few lakes and large alleys.
- Poniatowski Park (Park Poniatowskiego), almost along the whole length of Mickiewicza St (near Łódź Kaliska station). It is best to enter from Parkowa Street (near Real hypermarket). The park is a very popular venue for wedding photos and casual biking. There are also tennis courts there (entry from Mickiewicza Street).
- Old City Park (Park Staromiejski (every local knows it by the name Park Śledzia)), Nowomiejska/Północna intersection (next to the Old Market Square). The Decalogue Memorial is in the park, and has an excellent view on the Old Market Square. You can play chess with the locals there.
Do
Having been primarily promoted as a centre of creative industries (arts, design, fashion), the city hosts a considerable number of cultural events throughout the year on a range of subject matter. If you are travelling not just to see beautiful architecture, but to also experience a plethora of local events, Łódź is a great place to be.
Festivals
- Łódź of Four Cultures Festival (Festiwal Łódź Czterech Kultur). Takes place every September. Intended to promote understanding and tolerance between the four nations that have built the city.
- Light Move Festival. A festival of light held every October that utilises public spaces in the city centre for a spectacular show of art and video.
- Explorers Festival. Extreme sports and tourism festival. Takes place every November.
- International Festival of Photography (Fotofestiwal). Takes place every May. All the events take place in old factories, tenement buildings and villas of Łódź – post-industrial architecture creates a truly unique atmosphere for presentation of photographs.
- International Festival of Comics and Games (Międzynarodowy Festiwal Komiksu i Gier). Held annually in October. It is the biggest comic event in Central-Eastern Europe.
- Łódź Design Festival (Międzynarodowy Festiwal Designu). Held in October. Hosts various exhibitions and design events.
- Se-ma-for Film Festival. International festival of puppet movies and three-dimensional techniques. First such festival in Europe, second in the world.
- International Festival of Music Producers Soundedit (Międzynarodowy Festiwal Producentów Muzycznych). Mostly acoustic shows.
- Festival of Music Individualities Tansman (Festiwal Indywidualności Muzycznych Tansman). Homage to Alexandre Tansman.
- International Festival of Pleasant and Unpleasant Plays (Międzynarodowy Festiwal Sztuk Przyjemnych i Nieprzyjemnych). Held in the Common Theater, a long-running play festival.
Leisure
- 🌍 Lunapark. A popular, free theme park just outside the city.
- 🌍 Łódź zoo, ul. Konstantynowska 8/10, ☎ +48 42 632 75 09. A state-run zoo (and thus low in ticket prices) that hosts a wide variety of exotic animals. The giraffes and elephants are a particular highlight 11 zł, reduced 5 zł.
Cinemas
- Kino Charlie, ul.Piotrkowska 203/205, ☎ +48 42 636 00 92, e-mail: charlie@kinosfera.pl. A nice cinema with mostly interesting programme of (often European and Asian) films, not as commercial as Silver Screen.
- Kino Bałtyk, ul. Narutowicza 20, ☎ +48 42 630 36 03. Once it was the largest and the most important cinema in Łódź, but it has lost the market to chains like Silver Screen or Cinema City. The cinema is right behind the philharmonic. It is well-known for its excellent sound system.
- Cinema City, ul. Karskiego 5 (in Manufaktura mall), ☎ +48 42 664 64 64, fax: +48 42 664 64 02, e-mail: lodz@cinema-city.pl. Comfortable, big theater with 14 cinema halls and 1 big IMAX hall offering projections of 3D movies. Movie selection contains the latest Hollywood hits with Polish subtitles.
- Multikino (Silver Screen), ul. Piłsudskiego 5 (in the city center, next to Galeria Łódzka shopping mall and Ibis hotel), ☎ +48 42 639 58 00.
Theatres
The city's theatre scene can be considered a jewel in its cultural crown and includes a diverse range of shows and productions.
- 🌍 Teatr Jaracza, ul. Jaracza 27, ☎ +48 42 662 33 33, e-mail: kasa@teatr-jaracza.lodz.pl. The ticket offices are open from Monday till Sunday between 12:00 and 19:00. The reservations must be picked up before 18:00. It is considered one of the best drama theaters in Poland. They play Tuesday to Sunday mid September till mid June. On its 3 performance halls you can see modern Polish and international drama as well as the classics.
- 🌍 Teatr Nowy, ul. Zachodnia 93 (Mała Sala - small performance hall) and ul. Więckowskiego 15 (Duża Sala - large performance hall), ☎ +48 42 636 05 92, e-mail: bilety@nowy.pl. Ticket offices are open from Tuesday till Friday between 09:00 and 19:00, on Saturdays from 12:00 till 19:00 and on Sundays one before the play. It offers varied, mostly contemporary repertoire. Also the quality is varied so better ask for advice someone local or ask staff for an honest recommendation. The building served a Jewish cabaret before World War II and a Jewish theatre until 1948 (later it moved to Warsaw).
- 🌍 Teatr Wielki (Grand Theatre), plac Dąbrowskiego, ☎ +48 42 633 77 77, fax: +48 42 631 95 52, e-mail: teatr@teatr-wielki.lodz.pl. The ticket offices are open from Monday till Saturday between 12:00 and 19:00, and on Sundays from 15:00 till 19:00. It is the largest theatre in the city (second largest in Poland) with 1070 seats. It specializes in opera, operetta and ballet.
- 🌍 Teatr Powszechny (Common Theatre), ul. Legionów 21, ☎ +48 42 633 25 39, e-mail: teatr@powszechny.pl. A very popular theatre that hosts many well-known plays and a few festivals.
- 🌍 Teatr Muzyczny (Musical Theatre), ul. Północna 47/51, ☎ +48 42 678 19 68, e-mail: rezerwacja@teatr-muzyczny.lodz.pl. Musicals and operettas are the main plays here.
Live music
- 🌍 Artur Rubinstein's Łódz Philharmonic (Filharmonia Łódzka), ul. Narutowicza 20/22, ☎ +48 42 664 79 10, e-mail: bilety@filharmonia.lodz.pl. Ticket office open Monday-Friday from 12:00 till 18:00, one hour before every performance and during the first break in every performance. Second oldest philharmonic in Poland. If you are a fan of classical music, this is a place to go. Behind the philharmonic is Kino Bałtyk.
Tango
Milongas usually take place on Mondays in Oranżada on ul. Piotrkowska 67 and on Sundays in Klub Mojito on ul. Piotrkowska 143. They usually start at 19:00-20:00 and don't last longer than till 22:00-00:00. Several long and short tango courses are usually organized trough the year .
Sports
- Łódź Marathon (Dbam o Zdrowie). A major sports event held yearly in April. Quite popular both among the locals and the visitors, it offers a few different distances to run.
- 🌍 Fala Aquapark, al. Unii Lubelskiej 4. 09:00 - 22:00. One of the largest aquaparks in Poland. Once it was the most popular swimming complex in the city, and after a complete renovation it aspires to its former glory.
- AZS Clubs (Kluby Uczelniane AZS). Every major university has its own Academic Sports Society Club. They offer various activities (sekcje or sections) ranging from chess to sailing for low prices.
- 🌍 Arena Łódź, al. Bandurskiego 7. Large multi-purpose indoor arena hosting both concerts and sports events like basketball, volleyball or ice hockey matches.
Buy
The vast rate of improvements made over the past two decades mean Łódź may in fact be Poland’s top shopping destination (but don't tell that to someone from Warsaw!). Whether one is in search of American-style malls, designer boutiques, dusty family stores or antique markets, there is much to be explored and it is likely you will need more than a day to experience it all!
Shopping areas
- Piotrkowska Street is the main commercial street in the city. It is supposedly the longest commercial street in Europe, being four kilmometres long. There are many enticing shops selling jewelry, clothes and books.
- Kościuszki Street not as famous as Piotrkowska Street, but you can usually buy the same things here and pay much, much less.
Malls
Łódź has a good number of shopping malls. The most notable are:
- 🌍 Manufaktura, Ul. Ogrodowa 17, ☎ +48 42 654 85 00. Manufaktura is a unique place - an old factory converted into a modern shopping mall. Apart from shops there is a cinema, hotel, museum and art gallery.
- 🌍 Galeria Łódzka, Al. Piłsudskiego 15/23 (on the intersection with Sienkiewicza Street), ☎ +48 42 639 1500, fax: +48 42 639 1520. The largest single collection of shops is the Galeria Lodzka - a large mall on ul. Piłsudskiego - where you will find almost anything from the latest fashions and expensive perfume to modern electrical equipment and groceries.
- 🌍 Port Łódź, ul. Pabianicka 245 (Take tram line 11, get out on IKEA stop.). Another shopping mall. You can buy (also eat and drink) there almost everything. One of the shops there is IKEA. The mall is within the city limits. From city center you can go there by car in the direction of Pabianice or just take the tram line 11 heading to IKEA/Chocianowice (it is the last stop you cannot miss it). Most shops and restaurant in Port Łódź can also be found in the city center or other existing malls. But if you love IKEA, it is the only place in Łódź where you will find it.
- 🌍 Ptak Trade Center (Centrum Handlowe Ptak), ul. Rzemieślnicza 35, Rzgów (Take bus 70 (or 50, but be prepared to walk). You drop off at the terminus.). Opened from 05:00/07:00 during weekdays, from 09:00 on the weekends. Closes at 15:00. If you thought that Thailand or China are the places to go to buy clothes, well, you are mistaken. This is one of the largest clothes-oriented wholesale and retail centers in Europe (if not the largest one). The prices are highly competitive, quality is high and you can get there anything from a wedding dress to hipster clothes. The mall is enormous, so be prepared to spend at least a whole day there. Do not go there on Mondays as most of the stands are closed. It's a few kilometers south of Łódź.
- 🌍 Polros (Centrum Handlowe Polros), Tuszyńska 72/74, Rzgów (Take bus 70 (or 50, but be prepared to walk). You drop off at the terminus.). Next to Ptak Trade Center, another very large clothes-oriented shopping mall. A few kilometers south of Łódź.
- 🌍 Retkinia Shopping Center (Centrum Handlowe Retkinia), ul. Maratońska 24/32 (in the western part of the city, close to the airport.), e-mail: ch.retkinia@interia.eu. It is not a mall per se, but rather a small local shopping center that you will rarely find on a tourist map. There are no chain stores here, but still you can buy RPG and board games, clothes and many other things.
Markets
If you are up to buying groceries, clothes or anything else on a real market, these are the places to go:
- Baluty Market (Rynek Bałucki) in the district of Baluty in the north of the city, big open air market, every Saturday you can buy here everything from vegetables, over clothes to live pets. Not romantic, but an experience!
- Dolna-Ceglana Market (Targowisko Dolna-Ceglana) on Dolna Street, the biggest vegetable open air market for individual people (2 minutes away, north from Bałuty Market) very often by mistake named as Rynek Bałucki - but they are two different places.
- Zielony rynek ("The green market") on Plac Barlickiego (8 minutes away from Piotrkowska St.) is a great place to buy fresh fruits and vegetables as well as bread, meat, homemade honey and other products.
- Górniak Market ("Rynek Górniak"), at the very end of Piotrkowska Street (Piotrkowska 317), it is a well-known market among the locals. You can buy numerous gadgets here, as well as high-quality clothes for a very low price.
Clothes
You will find numerous shops offering wedding dresses in Łódź. This is a derivative of Łódź being once a very large textile center. The "wedding district" is on ul. Jaracza, ul. Sienkiewicza and ul. Kilińskiego, but you will also find other shops all around the city. If you buy something directly off-shelf, you may get a very good price (usually less than €250). It is cheaper if you decide to buy in autumn as it is considered to be the low season.
For groom clothes, you can visit either Ptak Trading Center, Polros or Pawis shop where you can get a tailor-made suit (but it usually takes a few weeks). There is also Sunset Suits and Armani stores in Manufaktura mall that tailor wedding garments. Again, if you buy off-shelf, the price is highly competitive.
- 🌍 Pan Tu Nie Stał, ul. Piotrkowska 138/140 (OFF Piotrkowska), ☎ +48 797 892 609, e-mail: sklep@pantuniestal.com. M-F 11:00-18:00, Sa 11:00-14:00. Clothes and accessories reminding of the PRL (People's Republic of Poland) times with a designer twist.
Eat
Łódź has culinary influence from all over the world and it is actually quite difficult to find explicitly Polish cuisine if you do not dine in the most expensive places. For the cheapest food, it is best to go to one of the numerous kebab or Yem joints. For something a bit healthier, you can easily get a tasty sandwich for around 6-8 zł. Polish cuisine does not have any cheap 'fast food' meals, so if you want to try something definitely Polish, it is wise to invest a bit more money and go to a splurge restaurant. They are costly only by Polish standards.
The cheaper option would be to look for a 'Pierogarnia' (or ask someone about it). There are many of such places in Łódź and they sell Polish dumplings. The price is usually very competitive.
Food shopping
The most popular hypermarkets are Tesco, Carrefour, Real or E.Leclerc. If you are on budget, you can go to Biedronka or Lidl. If you are prepared to spend some more money and buy some better produce, go to Alma or Piotr i Paweł. The last two shops are 100% Polish-owned.
Budget
- Da Grasso, e-mail: dagrasso@dagrasso.pl. M-Th Sa 11:00-22:00, Su 12:00-22:00, F 11:00-01:00. Their big pizza is more than enough for 2 hungry people. It is a chain, so you can find their restaurants all around the city. 15-25 zł.
- 🌍 In Centro, ul. Piotrkowska 153, ☎ +48 42 636 99 92. M-Sa 12:00-22:00; Su 13:00-22:00. Small pizzeria in the center of the city near Galeria Lodzka and Ibis Hotel. The oldest one in Łódź. 12 - 30 zł.
- 🌍 Green Way, ul. Piotrkowska 80, ☎ +48 42 632 08 52. A vegetarian fast food chain has one restaurant. They also offer free wireless access to the internet. A soup 3 zł, second plate 6-9 zł.
- 🌍 Manekin, ul. 6 Sierpnia 1, ☎ +48 42 671 07 84, e-mail: lodz@manekin.pl. Su-Th 10:00-22.30; F Sa 10:00-23.30. This place is about pancakes that are served in all imaginable varieties, sweet or savory, plain or stuffed, and even baked under cheese to make them even more hearty. Prices are surprisingly low, while the interior and service reputedly good. And if you can't eat any more pancakes, soups and salads are also available. 7-15 zł.
- 🌍 Orfeusz, ul. Narutowicza 43, ☎ +48 42 631 98 06. Daily 11:00 - 23:00. International restaurant with traditional Polish and Italian cuisine. There is also a salad bar and a big choice of dishes à la carte. 10 - 32 zł.
Mid-range
- 🌍 Piotrkowska Klub 97, ul. Piotrkowska 97, ☎ +48 42 630-65-73, fax: +48 42 632-47-14, e-mail: biuro@97.com.pl. Piotrkowska Klub 97 is said to be David Lynch's favorite restaurant in Łódź. Good quality food and wines. There is a Milonga Milonga w Łodzi - a tango evening in one of the halls most of Monday nights (starting around 19:30).
- 🌍 Da Antonio, ul. Jaracza 45 (Near to Plac Dąbrowskiego in a small villa), ☎ +48 42 630 50 70. 25-40 zł for an Italian pizza.
- 🌍 Cafe Tuwim, ul. Pomorska 18, ☎ +48 42 631 14 71. Daily 10:00 - 22:00. The only glat-kosher restaurant in the city About 30 zł for one course and a drink.
- 🌍 Smaki PRL-u, ul. Ogrodowa 19a, 91-065 Łódź, ☎ +48 42 634 05 31, e-mail: smakiprlu@restauracjasmakiprlu.pl. Restaurant specialising in food from the Polish communist era (PRL was the abbreviation of the People's Republic of Poland). Menu is divided into parts for the Working People and for Directors and Dignitaries. The latter are significantly more expensive. Interior is covered with memorabilia and photographs from the period. Food is good, but prices are high (by Polish standards) for what is offer and the surroundings are much more fancy than anything from before 1989 would really have been. For a more authentic (and much cheaper) period experience, visit one of the remaining milk bars. 18-78 zł main courses.
- 🌍 Montenegro, ul. Wólczańska 51 90-608 Łódź, ☎ +48 42 632 00 94, e-mail: biuro@montenegro.lodz.pl. 12:00 - 23:00. As the name suggests this is a Montenegrin restaurant, with surroundings fancier than the price would suggest. Great food, good wines and friendly service. 20-49 zł main courses.
Splurge
- 🌍 Restauracja Polska, ul. Piotrkowska 12, ☎ +48 42 6338345, e-mail: info@restauracjapolska.net1.pl. Nice, calm interior and impressive menu.
- 🌍 Restauracja Anatewka, ul. 6 Sierpnia 2/4, ☎ +48 42 6303635, e-mail: anatewka@anatewka.com. If you are looking for original Jewish cuisine, this is a place to go. There is also a branch at Manufaktura. It is a popular place, so make sure you reserve if you plan to go there during the weekend.
- 🌍 Restauracja Soplicowo, ul. Wigury 12a (Very close to Galeria Łódzka), ☎ +48 42 6373081, e-mail: rezerwacja@soplicowo.com.pl. Mainly Polish cuisine. There is often a wedding reception there on Saturdays, so the whole restaurant may be closed.
- 🌍 Revelo, ul. Wigury 4/6 (Next to Soplicowo, right off Piotrkowska), ☎ +48 42 6368686, e-mail: revelo@revelo.pl. The best rated restaurant in Łódź.
Drink
Łódź is known for its excellent night scene. Nightlife is concentrated in the city center (Piotrkowska Street, Kościuszki Street and the adjoining streets). There are dozens of pubs and restaurants there. Another focal point is Manufaktura where many festivals and public concerts take place (but it usually closes much earlier).
- 🌍 Piwoteka, ul. 6 sierpnia 1/3, e-mail: piwoteka@piwoteka.pl. Off Piotrkowska Street, it is both a shop and a pub. You can try hundreds of Polish regional beers there. Recommended for beer tasters.
- 🌍 Bierhalle, ul. Drewnowska 58 (Manufaktura), ☎ +48 42 632 03 76, fax: +48 42 632 03 69, e-mail: bierhalle.manufaktura@globrest.com. Friday-Saturday 12:00-24:00, Sunday 12:00-22:00, weekdays 12:00-23:00. A German-style brewery. They close quite early, but the beer is good.
- 🌍 Pub Łódź Kaliska, ul.Piotrkowska 102, ☎ +48 42 630 69 55, fax: +48 42 630 69 55, e-mail: klub@lodzkaliska.pl. One of the most popular pubs, an institution! Named after the artist group "Łódź Kaliska". Decorated with pieces of art. On weekends very crowded. A must see are the women's toilets on the second floor!
- 🌍 Studio 102, ul. Piotrkowska 102, ☎ +48 42 632 15 34, e-mail: club102@s102.com.pl. Directly opposite Łódź Kaliska lies a much more laid back and down to earth establishment. Good music and an interesting gallery of pictures on the walls provide welcome refuge from the Friday night throngs.
- 🌍 Irish Pub, Piotrkowska 77, ☎ +48 42 632 48 76. Wide selection of beers - including Guinness and Kilkenny, Irish specialties - wines and other beverages. You can eat as well as have a drink here.
- 🌍 Bagdad Cafe, ul. Jaracza 45, ☎ +48 42 63 997 99. Reggae, funk, breakbeat, elektro parties.
- Rolling Stone, ul. Moniuszki 6, ☎ +48 42 633 65 41. A self-styled "English Pub". Here you can sit back on oak pews and laugh at caricatures of the Royal Family and Keith Richards to the sound of The Cure. Is much bigger than it looks from the outside.
- Dwie Dłonie, ul. Wólczańska 40/42, ☎ +48 42 630 10 05, +48 605 99 46 99, e-mail: info@dwiedlonie.pl. The only pub in the city that aims to integrate those who hear and those who don't. Staff people know Polish sign language. You can have a drink here as well as eat a pizza (9,5 - 27 zł), play table football, billiard or darts or use internet for 2,50 zł/h.
- Eclipse Inn, ul. Piotrkowska 80. English pub with several British beers off the tap and more in bottles.
- 🌍 Owoce i warzywa, ul. Traugutta 9. Mecca for the local hipsters. Furnished with some examples of Polish design. Regular concerts of indie musicians, also from abroad.
- 🌍 Krancoofka (Klub Transportowy), Piotrkowska 29 (Entrance round the corner on Więckowskiego), ☎ +48 507 253 879. Su-Th 18:00 - 00:00, F Sa 18:00 - 03:00. Punk/rockabilly/metal bar in cellar with courtyard outside. Very extensive range of Polish craft beers, surprisingly clean interior decorated with truck seats. Very welcoming crowd. Not right-wing.
Coffee
- Coffeeheaven, ul. Piotrkowska 80. Coffee Heaven is nothing but a bland international-style coffee place, but it is indeed a heaven in early morning hours, when more genuine Polish cafes are still closed and keep their seducing desserts behind the windows. Expect pricey coffee, decent cakes, grilled sandwiches (best choice here), and a non-free Wi-Fi connection. Also at Aleja Józefa Piłsudskiego 15/23.
- Hort-Cafe, ul. Piotrkowska 106/110. Essentially an ice-cream cafe, Hort boasts a selection of cakes and tarts delivered from the adjacent bakery, decent choice of tea and coffee, and even several savory meals (pancakes, kotlety) served until 19:00. The interior is somewhat retro-style, while the mandatory 1 zł charge for the cloakroom is also reminiscent of old and mildly annoying traditions. Free Wi-Fi.
- Kawiarnia Syrena, ul. Piotrkowska 66. Also known as "u Husajna" or "chez Hussein" offers good coffee, huge ice-cream desserts, milkshakes and truly international atmosphere.
- Mała Litera (Bookshop-Cafe), ul. Nawrot 7. It is an artistic bookshop with books mostly in English, big range of CDs (mostly classical and ethnic music) and a small cafe. It is one of few places in Łódź where they know how to make a good macchiato. Concerts and meetings with artists are often organized in the evenings. Free Wi-Fi (ask staff for password).
- Niebieskie Migdały, ul. Sienkiewicza 40 and ul. Piotrkowska 200, ☎ +48 609 511 484. Offers a wide selection of reasonably priced teas in very pleasant, quiet and comfortable surroundings. Indeed, after five minutes you'll soon forget that you're in Poland's second largest city.
Sleep
This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room: | |
Budget | Under 100 zł |
Mid-range | 100 zł Ōto 300 zł |
Splurge | Over 300 zł |
Łódź lacks cheap hostel accommodation, but with generally low prices for the mid-range hotels, everyone should be able to find something suiting their needs. A few years ago, the situation on the hotel market was very poor indeed and there were no 4-star hotels. Nevertheless, when andel's hotel was built, the situation has dramatically changed and now every year new high-end hotels are being built. It may be wise to choose one of the hotels in the city center as this will reduce the time you need to spend on the public transport or in taxis. Łódź is a fairly compact city, and while most attractions are in the center, you need to travel some distances to a few other attractions that are on the outskirts.
Budget
- Boutique hostel, ul. Stefanowskiego 17, ☎ +48 42 636 22 01, e-mail: stefanowskiego@hotels24.com.pl. Central. Free Wi-Fi, free parking, newly built. Each room with cable TV LCD. 79 zł single room, 99 zł double room, 12 zł breakfast.
- Hotel Boss Łódź**, ul. Tatrzańska 11, ☎ +48 42 676 31 13, e-mail: officeboss@hotel-boss.pl. 24h. TV in every room, parking free for all guests, tasty traditional food in hotel's restaurant. 59 zł single room, 118 zł double room, 12 zł breakfast.
- Hotel Boss, al. Piłsudskiego 141, ☎ +48 42 674 07 36, e-mail: hoteleboss@wp.pl. Few minutes by public transport from ul. Piotrkowska, in calm area, close to main roads. Free Wi-Fi, free parking, restaurant and pub. Each room with TV and bathroom. 90 zł single room, 120 zł double room, 20 zł breakfast.
- 🌍 Hostelling International Youth Hostel, ul. Legionów 27 (near ul. Piotrkowska), ☎ +48 42 630 66 80, fax: +48 42 6306683, e-mail: recepcja@yhlodz.pl. The rooms are clean, but very basic in terms of amenities. The hostel hosts large groups of young children that often run around the halls screaming. There's also a curfew requiring guests to be in the hostel no later than 22:59, though its possible to come back at a later time, when arranged in advance. 30 zł per person per night and up.
- 🌍 Flamingo Hostel, ul. Sienkiewicza 61 (near Galeria Łódzka), ☎ +48 42 66 11 888, e-mail: lodz@flamingo-hostel.com. Opposite to a small park. 40 - 65 zł.
- 🌍 Music Hostel, ul. Piotrkowska 60, ☎ +48 533 533 263, e-mail: reservations@music-hostel.pl. Very good location, free breakfast, Wi-Fi 10 Mbit/s. 45 - 60 zł.
- 🌍 Helenowek, ul. Okulickiego 10b, ☎ +48 42 658 22 39, e-mail: helenowek@wp.pl. In the northern outskirts of town, right by a large forest and with a pond on site. Tram connection (25-30 min. to the centre). Has a variety of singles, doubles/twins and bigger rooms, which are all en-suite (prices start from 75 zł).
- 🌍 Syrenka, ul. Zachodnia 56, ☎ +48 42 633 38 69. Cheap hotel (shared bathroom facilities). Rooms with satellite TV 10 zł extra, showers 5 zł per use. 50 zł single, 70 zł double.
Mid-range
- 🌍 Hotel Ambasador Chojny, ul. Kosynierów Gdyńskich 8, ☎ +48 42 646 49 04. In the southern part of the city in a small park. Free parking, swimming pool and sauna included in the room price. The hotel restaurant is a popular place to hold a wedding reception. Up to US$90 for a.
- 🌍 Hotel Borowiecki, ul. Kasprzaka 7/9, ☎ +48 42 288 01 00, e-mail: recepcja@hotelborowiecki.pl. About 10 minutes from the centre by public transport. It is very close to Zdrowie Park.
- 🌍 Boutique Hotel's Rewolucji, ul. Rewolucji 1905 roku 8 (near Manufaktura shopping center), ☎ +48 42 630 63 15, e-mail: rewolucji@hotels24.com.pl. Free Wi-Fi and parking for guests, TV LCD with cable in every room, breakfast 21 zł. 144 zł for single room 188 zł for double.
- 🌍 Boutique Hotel's Milionowa, ul. Milionowa 25, ☎ +48 42 684 75 10. Central, newly built, free Wi-Fi and parking for guests, TV LCD with cable in every room, breakfast 21 zł. 140 zł for single room.
- 🌍 Hotel Campanile, al. Pilsudskiego 27, ☎ +48 42 664 26 00, fax: +48 42 664 26 01, e-mail: lodz@campanile.com. A good and central hotel.
- 🌍 Hotel Centrum, ul. Kilińskiego 59/63 (next to the Łódź Fabryczna train station), ☎ +48 42 632 86 40, e-mail: centrum@centrumhotele.pl. Once, it was considered the best hotel in the city, but today it has lost it glamour.
- Hotel Focus, ul. Łąkowa 23/25, ☎ +48 42 637 12 00, fax: +48 42 636 98 18, e-mail: lodz@hotelfocus.com.pl. A new hotel close to the Film School.
- 🌍 iness Hotel, ul. Wróblewskiego 19/23, ☎ +48 42 684 45 54, e-mail: recepcja@inesshotel.pl. A business hotel close to the city center and the Technical University.
- Hotel Mazowiecki, ul. 28 Pułku Strzelców Kaniowskich 53/57, ☎ +48 42 637 43 33, e-mail: mazowiecki@centrumhotele.pl. It is not as good hotel (in term of number of stars) as the previous ones, but they good prices and reasonable rooms. A bit off the city center.
- mHOTEL, ul. św. Teresy 111 (near Szczecińska Street), ☎ +48 42 652 99 90, fax: +48 42 655 72 10, e-mail: mhotel@mhotel.eu. A conference hotel completely outside of the city center in the north-western part of the town. If you stay there, be prepared for a commute to see the attractions.
- Hotel Polonia Palast, ul. Narutowicza 38 (close to Łódź Fabryczna railway station), ☎ +48 42 632 87 73, e-mail: polonia@centrumhotele.pl. One of the oldest hotels in the city. A few years ago it lost its stars, which meant that it could not be called a hotel any more. However, in 2009 after a complete overhaul, the hotel has regained its 2 stars.
- Hotel Savoy, ul. Traugutta 6, ☎ +48 42 632 93 60, e-mail: savoy@centrumhotele.pl. Built in the 1912, it is a very well-known building among the locals. Not so posh and glamorous anymore, but still staying there is said to be like moving to the 1920s.
- Hotel Światowit, al. Kościuszki 68, ☎ +48 42 636 36 37, e-mail: swiatowit@centrumhotele.pl. A good and centrally located hotel.
Splurge
- 🌍 Hotel Ambasador Centrum, Al. Piłsudskiego 29, ☎ +48 42 677 15 20, fax: +48 42 677 15 40. 4-star hotel. US$100-120.
- 🌍 Andel's Hotel Łódź, ul. Ogrodowa 17 (Manufaktura), ☎ +48 42 279 10 00, fax: +48 42 279 10 01, e-mail: info@andelslodz.com. A very original hotel in an adapted historical textile manufacture next to Poznański Palace. It won the "Architecture of the Year" in 2009 in the European Hotel Design Award competition.
- 🌍 Grand Hotel, ul. Piotrkowska 72, ☎ +48 42 633 99 20. The Grand Hotel is the oldest hotel in Lodz. 81 rooms including 7 apartments. US$100-140.
- 🌍 Holiday Inn, ul. Piotrkowska 229/231, ☎ +48 42 208 20 00, fax: +48 42 208 20 02. A four-star hotel in the centre. 299-439 zł.
- 🌍 Nowa Gdynia SPA & Wellness Resort (Stacja Nowa Gdynia), ul. Sosnowa 1 (Just outside Łódź in the direction of Zgierz. Well-connected using public transport (tram lines 11, 16 and 46)), ☎ +48 42 714 21 61, fax: +48 42 714 21 62, e-mail: hotel@nowa-gdynia.pl. Outside Łódź, this is a spa resort with many attractions like a sports center or an aquapark. Weekdays 390 zł for a double room, weekends 330 zł.
- 🌍 Qubus, al. Mickiewicza 7 (one tram stop away from the centre), ☎ +48 42 275 51 00, e-mail: rezerwacja@qubushotel.pl.
Connect
Postal service
There are numerous post offices in Łódź. The main post office is on Tuwima 38 Street in a century-old building. Do not be misguided by the name, the main post office is not open 24/7 (but the one next to Łódź Kaliska station is).
- 24/7 Post Office, ul. Włókniarzy 227 (Next to Łódź Kaliska station). Open 24/7.
- Main Post Office, ul. Tuwima 38 (On the intersection with Kilińskiego Street). M-F 08:00-20:00, Sa 09:00-14:00.
Internet
There are some Internet cafes on Piotrkowska and nearby streets and most bars and restaurants have Wi-Fi, just ask the staff. There's also free Wi-Fi in Manufaktura centre and at Łódź Airport.
- 🌍 PWN Bookshop, ul. Więckowskiego 13 (corner with Zachodnia, just by Teatr Nowy). 10:00 - 18:00. You won't get coffee here but the staff is very nice and the bookshop itself has a good choice of academic books (not only). The building served a Jewish school between 1945 and 1968. Free Wi-Fi.
Stay safe
Łódź has a rough reputation among Polish people from other cities, largely thanks to well-publicized events that shocked Poland in the late 1990s and early 2000s. Today, Łódź is a safe place. Contrary to typical newcomer's fears, the crime rate is relatively low and according to statistics is much lower than in any other large city in Poland (only 39 crimes per 1000 citizens were reported in the city in 2008). Also, violent crime is very rare. Some basic advice though:
Watch out for pickpockets. A common trick for thieves is to operate in groups and create artificial crowds on buses and trams which distract their victims' attention prior to being pickpocketed. Also, do not leave your belongings unattended and keep you wallet in your front pockets.
Do not visit the city parks after dark. During the day you are perfectly safe, but almost all city parks are open also during the night and there have been reported cases of muggings.
Avoid the following places. Even though the city is safe, the locals will tell that you should avoid certain places if going alone. These are: Włókiennicza Street (also a small part of Wschodnia and Kilińskiego Streets that is in the proximity of Włókiennicza), Abramowskiego Street, Solna Street and Limanowskiego Street.
Avoid displaying football-related emblems. The hooligan scene in Łódź is quite large and very divided. You never know who you will meet, so it is safer to keep your football affections to yourself. This is especially important during the local derby between ŁKS and Widzew football clubs. This advice holds for every Polish city.
Be careful when using pedestrian crossings. Even though pedestrians have right-of-way on pedestrian crossings, some Polish drivers do not respect that. So please be careful and always make sure that there are no cars approaching when you decide to cross the street. This applies to all Polish cities.
Beggars
Łódź hasn't been developing residentially quite as rapidly as some other more successful Polish cities, and has some of the most deprived urban areas in Poland, but such issues are handled by the government and (especially) NGOs.
If you are keen to help, consider donating to an accountable charity, like the Polish Red Cross or Caritas Polska. If you still want to give something to a beggar, offer buying food for them (and notice their reaction).
Cope
Łódź is a safe and friendly city, very eager to receive foreign visitors. The average English level of Łódź residents is high, especially among young people. Older generations are more fluent in Russian and German. However, directions to major sights are not well-marked and you are best off with a map at hand. Do not be afraid of asking directions, as people will almost always try their best to help you! It will be very well perceived if you learn at least a few Polish words like "dziękuję" (thank you) or "proszę" (please). See the phrasebook Polish for more Polish words and their pronunciation.
Religious services
- Church of St. Theresa (Kościół Świętej Teresy od Dzieciątka Jezus i Świętego Jana Bosko), ul. Kopcińskiego 1/3, ☎ +48 42 678 35 22. The Holy Mass in English is held every Sunday at 10:00 in one of the rectory rooms.
- Synagogue (Synagoga/Bożnica przy Pomorskiej), ul. Pomorska 18, ☎ +48 42 6320427. Services are held every morning and afternoon. Kabbalat Shabbat services usually start at 17:00 in winter and 18:00 in summer but it is worthwhile to call the Community Office and ask for exact times before coming. This is an Orthodox synagogue: services are in Hebrew, women and men sit in separate sections, men are expected to have their heads covered, and everyone should dress modestly.
Consulates
Austrian consulate, ul. Klaretynska 9 91-117, ☎ +48 42 652 72 12. Belgian consulate, ul. Gdanska 91 bud. F, 90-613 Lodz Poland, ☎ +48 42 630 04 33. British consulate, ul. Piotrkowska 89 90-423 Lodz Poland, ☎ +48 42 631 1818. Czech consulate, ul. M. Sklodowskiej-Curie 11, 90-505 Lodz Poland, ☎ +48 42 665-54-59. Danish consulate, ul. Piotrkowska 89 90-423, ☎ +48 42 632 87 11. French consulate, ul. Pawilonska 47, 91-487 Lodz Poland, ☎ +48 505-104-817. German consulate, ul. Piotrkowska 111 90-425, ☎ +48 42 633 71 00. Hungarian consulate, ul. Kaczencowa 10 91-214, ☎ +48 42 25 35 303. Latvian consulate, Al. Tadeusza Kosciuszki 35 90-418, ☎ +48 42 633 97 68. Moldovan consulate, ul. Srebrzyńska 83, 94-209 Lodz Poland, ☎ +48 42 207-30-30.
Laundries
- Usługi Pralnicze S.C., ul. Snycerska 5, ☎ +48 42 654 34 36.
- Pralnia Perfeckt, ul. Radwańska 6, ☎ +48 42 636 12 90.
- Pralnia eko serwis, ul. Tatrzańska 110A - pavilion 619, ☎ +48 642 07 07, e-mail: pralnia@pralnialodz.com. M-F 09:00-19:00.
Go next
Useful for day trips:
- Łęczyca, a medieval town about 40 km north of Łódź with a royal castle, knight tournaments, old churches and Festival of Film Trailers. About 1 hour by train from Łódź Kaliska bus station or by coach from Lutomierska and Zachodnia streets intersection.
- Łowicz is famous for colorful regional costumes and folk art. It is about 60 km north-west of Łódź (about 1 hour 15 minutes by train or bus from Łódź Kaliska station). Boasting rich history, Łowicz also houses the old residence of Polish archbishops, numerous churches, monasteries and museums.
- Nieborów has a splendid baroque palace with a large park, and is close to Łowicz.
- Arkadia is an English-style, large romantic park with artificial ruins. To get there, first go to Łowicz and then take a bus (PKS) in the direction of Skierniewice that stops in Arkadia and Nieborów.
- Inowłódz is a small village south-east of Łódź, just beyond Tomaszów Mazowiecki. There is a famous, almost 1,000-year-old church there.
- Spała is a village right before Inowłódz. There is the Spała Landscape Park and the village is known throughout Poland for its spa resorts and luxurious hotels.
Large cities nearby:
- Warsaw, the capital of Poland, with much to offer to any type of tourist. The fastest way to get there is to take the train from Łóź Kaliska or Łódź Widzew station, or travel by car or coach over the A2 highway that connects both cities.
- Poznań, one of the largest cities in Poland and home to the country's oldest cathedral. It's about 200 km west by same A2 highway.
- Toruń is one of the oldest Polish towns and the birthplace of Copernicus. It's about 160 km north of Łódź by A1 highway (a half of it still under construction).