Shaun Leane (jeweller)

Shaun Leane (born 8 July 1969)[1] is a British jewellery designer best known for his sculptural pieces created for Alexander McQueen. His eponymous jewellery brand is a four-time winner of the UK Jewellery Designer of the Year award.[2]

Shaun Leane
Born1969 (age 50–51)
London, England
NationalityBritish
OccupationJewellery designer
Years active1992–present
Websiteshaunleane.com

Early life and education

Leane was born and raised in Finsbury Park, London.[3] At 15, after working for his father's construction firm, he enrolled in a youth training scheme for jewellery design at Kingsway Princeton College of Further Education in Clerkenwell.[3][4] A year later, he started a seven-year apprenticeship with English Traditional Jewellery in London's jewellery quarter, Hatton Garden, where he became a classically trained goldsmith.[5][6][4][7] It was there that he undertook antique restorations of Victorian, Art Nouveau and Art Deco jewellery.[3]

Career

Work with Alexander McQueen
Coiled Corset, 2004

In 1992, a year after completing his apprenticeship, a mutual friend introduced Leane to Lee Alexander McQueen, who was then studying at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design.[8][9][10] The next year, after McQueen had graduated, he visited Leane at work, and was impressed by the traditional pieces Leane was working on, and appreciated his attention to detail. He asked Leane to create Victorian-style silver fob watch chains for his fourth post-college show, Highland Rape.[8][9] Working with McQueen was a departure for Leane, who, after training with precious metals and stones, was now working with brass, aluminum and sterling silver for McQueen's catwalk shows,[11] and had to teach himself new techniques to create the large finale pieces for McQueen's shows.[8]

Leane was soon working on eight shows a year for McQueen and Givenchy.[6] His designs for McQueen went from small jewels in the early shows (the watch chains in the 1995 Highland Rape collection, tusk earrings for the Spring/Summer 1996 show The Hunger) to larger and more avant-garde designs such as the spine skeleton corset for the Spring/Summer 1998 show Untitled.[11][12] His 1996 mouthpiece, titled Repression, was originally created for the 1997 McQueen Autumn-Winter collection, and chosen by Isabella Blow as part of a group of garments selected to represent fashions of 1997 in the Fashion Museum, Bath's Dress of the Year collection.[13]

Leane worked with McQueen on an African-inspired neckpiece worn by Björk on the cover of her 1997 album Homogenic. After creating that piece, McQueen asked Leane if he could create a similar piece to fit the entire torso.[2] And so for McQueen's Autumn/Winter 1999 catwalk show, The Overlook, Leane created the Coiled Corset, a form-encasing bodice created from coils of aluminum.[11][12][14] Artist Kees van der Graaf created a concrete cast of the body of model Laura Morgan, around which Leane created a metal corset inspired by the neck rings worn by Ndebele women.[12] Leane has since called the piece his highlight in working with McQueen,[11] and his most challenging project.[15] He spent 16 hours a day for 10 straight weeks creating it.[2][16]

For the 2001 Autumn/Winter show What a Merry Go Round, Leane had to teach himself taxidermy to create earrings of pheasant claws clutching Tahitian pearls. Later, Leane created star and moon headdresses for the Autumn/Winter 2007 show, In Memory of Elizabeth Howe, Salem, 1692, inspired by antique vintage Victorian brooches but designed to be worn as headdresses.[11][17]

Leane and McQueen worked together for over 17 years until McQueen's death in 2010.[11] Along with Anna Wintour, Suzy Menkes and Annabelle Nielson, Leane gave an address at the memorial service for McQueen on 20 September 2010.[18] A selection of over 30 pieces Leane created with McQueen were featured in the Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York in 2011, later restaged at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London in 2015.[8][10][11]

Shaun Leane Jewellery

In 1998, a buyer for Harvey Nichols approached Leane with a view to stocking his first collection. This led to Leane putting together his first commercial collections, which used elements from his work for McQueen.[4] In 1999, Leane founded Shaun Leane Jewellery, a company producing jewellery collections alongside his large-scale fashion pieces, combining traditional craftsmanship with modern design and computer-aided design techniques.[6][19] In 2000 Ben Rowe joined the company after graduating with a Jewellery BA (Hons) from Sir John Cass School of Art. Progressing from the bench to designing alongside Leane, he was later named Creative Director in 2011. Rowe Left Shaun Leane in 2016 to take on a role as Design Director (Fashion) at Tiffany & Co.[20] As of 2020 Leane's designs are sold online and at major retailers in Britain, Europe, the Middle East and the United States.[17] Iconic Shaun Leane collections include Hooks and Talons, Cherry Blossom and Sabre.[3][11][21][22][23]

Leane's signature style fuses his traditional goldsmith skills with the world of fashion. He takes inspiration from the art and fashion worlds, from history and nature, from romance in literature and poetry, combining his traditional goldsmith skills and early days restoring antiques from the Art Deco and Victorian periods with a fashion slant from his years working with McQueen.[19] Sotheby's described his jewellery as "antiques of the future."[24]

Leane has worked with Givenchy, Boucheron, De Beers, Bacardi and Clé de Peau Beauté.[5][6][25][26] Shaun Leane Jewellery has been acquired for the permanent collections of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York,[27] the Victoria and Albert Museum in London,[28] and the Fashion Museum, Bath. His fine jewellery has been worn by celebrities and artists including Björk, Daphne Guinness, Sam Taylor-Johnson, Elton John, Emma Watson, Kate Moss, Sarah Jessica Parker and the Hassanal Bolkiah.[3][15][19][29]

Collaborations and commissions

Leane collaborated with Boucheron on a necklace for the label's 150th anniversary in 2008. The necklace has delicate, blackened gold flowers set with white and brown diamonds and sapphires, which can open and close with hidden buttons. It was unveiled at a party at the Boucheron store in Mayfair, London.[25]

Leane was commissioned by Daphne Guinness to create Contra Mundum, also known simply as The Glove, a hand-crafted evening glove crafted from 1,000 grams of 18-carat white gold and set with 5,000 pave white diamonds. The Glove was presented by Jay Jopling in its debut at a private party in London in 2011.[30][31][32] It took Leane five years to create.[32] Contra Mundum was the inspiration behind the glove worn by The Countess (portrayed by Lady Gaga) in the FX horror anthology series American Horror Story: Hotel. Gaga was photographed wearing the original glove alongside Guinness on the cover of the January 2016 issue of V magazine.[33]

In 2011, Leane began working with jewellery house Asprey on two new collections, released in May 2012: The Woodland Collection, a series of nature-inspired fine charm jewellery, and The Fern Collection, a series of emerald, diamond and platinum rings, earrings and necklaces inspired by ferns.[26] A charms necklace from the Woodland Collection was worn by Kate Middleton, the Duchess of Cambridge.[29]

In 2014, SHOWstudio presented SHOWcabinet, the first major exhibition of Leane's work.[19][34] It was held in gallery space owned by the photographer Nick Knight in 2014.[10] Leane created a butterfly brooch, which was displayed alongside a painting from Damien Hirst's butterfly painting series; feather hoop earrings displayed alongside a Philip Treacy hat; and an Aurora ring, inspired by the blues and greens of the aurora borealis, with bands of diamonds symbolizing shards of light crossing through, displayed alongside the work of light sculptor Ahn Chulyhan.[19]

Leane worked with Austrian cut lead glass producer Atelier Swarovski to create the 2015 nine-piece jewelry collection Swift.[35]

The British Royal Family

Leane’s jewels have been worn by several members of the British Royal Family including Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge and Meghan Markle, Duchess of Sussex. [36] [37] In 2019 Princess Beatrice of York and her fiancé Count Edoardo Alessandro Mapelli Mozzi broke with royal tradition when they announced their engagement by naming Leane as the designer of the ring, a detail that Buckingham Palace doesn’t usually reveal.[38]

Typical of Leane’s personal approach to his bespoke projects, the engagement ring was designed in close collaboration with Mapelli Mozzi, using an exceptional 2.5ct ethically sourced diamond from Botswana.[39] Leane explains, ‘the bespoke experience was a beautiful journey; from imagining the design with Edoardo to the crafting of the finished rings. Being able to incorporate both Edoardo and Princess Beatrice's characters into the design has resulted in a unique ring that represents their love and lives entwining.’ [40]

In an interview with Vogue’s contribution jewellery director Carol Woolton, Leane reflects on the design, ‘it’s a fusion of Art Deco, which Edoardo loves, with Victorian elements for Beatrice. it’s a mixture of both eras and crafted to include personal messages so it’s entirely unique to them… That’s what makes a bespoke ring so memorable and important’.[41]

Public Realm

In 2016 Leane was commissioned by Grainger Plc in collaboration with Futurecity to design the balcony railings and gates across the façade of 21 Young Street - a London residential development in Kensington, designed by Assael Architecture.[42][43] This was Leane’s debut into the architectural and public realm and one of the largest scale commissions in the UK by a jewellery designer.[43][44]

Unveiled in July 2018, Arbour is an extensive public artwork consisting of 36 balcony railings and two gates cast in phosphor bronze by British metalwork foundry Chris Brammall. Featuring 1,850 bronze sculpted leaves and three-dimensional branches, the entire piece weighs over four tonnes.[43] The building’s façade is inspired by neighbouring Kensington Square and the greenery of the private garden.[44]  

A replicate of the balcony is on permanent display in the metalwork gallery at the V&A Museum.[44][43][45]

Sotheby’s Auction

On 4 December 2017, Leane’s personal archive of couture jewellery was offered for auction by Sotheby’s New York in conjunction with Kerry Taylor Auctions. Featuring over 45 bespoke pieces including iconic designs produced for Alexander McQueen, Daphne Guinness, Sarah Jessica Parker, Isabella Blow and Kate Moss, the auction showcased creations spanning over 20 years of Leane’s work.[46] Several of the pieces had appeared in The Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Victoria & Albert in their retrospective of Leane’s work in 2011 and 2015, respectively.[47]

Notable pieces from the sale included the Skeleton Corset designed by Leane for McQueen’s ‘Untitled’ collection, Spring-Summer 1998 and the Coiled Corset from ‘The Overlook’ collection, Autumn-Winter 1999-2000, both of which exceeded bidding expectations.[47]

Ben Rowe

Ben Rowe worked alongside Leane from 1999 onwards, designing collections, commissions and bespoke pieces for the brand. He was named Creative Director in 2011. Rowe left Shaun Leane in December 2016 to take on a new role as Design Director (Fashion) at Tiffany & Co.[48]

Selected exhibitions
Contra Mundum, 2011

Honors and awards
  • UK Jewellery Awards, Jewellery Designer of the Year, 2004, 2005, 2009, 2010[2][51][52]
  • Britain's Luxury Jewellery Designer of the Year, 2006[3]
  • Luxury and Creation Talent Awards, Talent de la Séduction, 2010[53]
  • Harper's Bazaar Jewelry China's International Designer of the Year, 2013[54]
  • Walpole British Luxury, Best Luxury Craftsmanship, 2013[55]
  • Andrea Palladio International Jewellery Award for Best International Jewellery Designer, 2015[56]
  • UK Jewellery Awards, Fine Jewellery Brand of the Year, 2016[57]

Personal life

Leane lives in London, England. In February 2006, he was made a Freeman of the City of London, which is the highest honour in the city.[3] He is a Liveryman of the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths.

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References
  1. "Shaun Leane: Nose ornament". The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Retrieved 18 May 2016.
  2. Alice Casely-Hayford, "Shaun Leane: The Interview," Hunger TV, 12 March 2015.
  3. Sarah Mower, "Danger: rocks," The Telegraph, 9 December 2006.
  4. Galton, Elizabeth (November 2012). Basics Fashion Design 10: Jewellery Design: From Fashion to Fine Jewellery. A&C Black. pp. 3–6. ISBN 9782940411948. Retrieved 18 May 2016.
  5. "The Birth of Shaun Leane," Professional Jeweller, 14 June 2010.
  6. "Shaun Leane talks to GOJD," Guild of Jewellery Designers. Accessed 1 February 2017.
  7. Wilson, Andrew (September 2015). Alexander McQueen: Blood Beneath the Skin. Simon and Schuster. p. 89. ISBN 9781476776736.
  8. Carol Woolton, "Alexander McQueen's legacy in jewellery," Financial Times, 13 March 2015.
  9. Dan Howarth, "'Alexander McQueen changed fashion and I changed jewellery' says Shaun Leane," De Zeen, 7 August 2015.
  10. Fury, Alexander (8 August 2014). "Avant-garde jeweller Shaun Leane spreads his wings at Nick Knight's". The Independent. Retrieved 18 May 2016.
  11. Sarah Royce-Greensill, "Shaun Leane remembers McQueen," The Telegraph, 29 March 2015.
  12. Staff writer. "'Coiled corset', The Museum of Savage Beauty". The Museum of Savage Beauty. Victoria and Albert Museum. Retrieved 30 September 2015.
  13. Lester, Richard (2013). Dress of the year. Antique Collectors' Club. pp. 141–143. ISBN 9781851497256.
  14. Koda, Harold (2003). Extreme beauty : the body transformed. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. pp. 75–76. ISBN 978-0-300-10312-0.
  15. Vanessa Lau, "Five minutes with McQueen's jewelry master, Shaun Leane," W, July 2009.
  16. Lindsay Baker, "Alexander McQueen: Fashion's dark fairytale," BBC, 13 March 2015.
  17. David Belcher, "Shaun Leane: Remembering Fierce Designs and Pheasant Claws," New York Times, 13 May 2015.
  18. Dolly Jones, "The McQueen Memorial," Vogue, 20 September 2010.
  19. Janet Christie, "Jeweller Shaun Leane, a diamond geezer," The Scotsman, 25 May 2014.
  20. https://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/ben-rowe-becomes-creative-director-of-shaun-leane-121882868.html
  21. "Shaun Leane celebrates Harrods anniversary with special edition Cherry Blossom, Retail Jeweller". May 17, 2010.
  22. "Brand Exclusive: Discover Shaun Leane's 'Most-Loved' Jewellery Design by your Favourite Celebrities, Wakefields Jewellers". 13 November 2015.
  23. "All About Meghan Markle's Daring Pair of Go-to Earrings, Loved by Kendall Jenner & More". PEOPLE.com. Retrieved 2 April 2019.
  24. "Shaun Leane," Goldsmiths' Craft and Design Council. Accessed 1 February 2017.
  25. Julia Neel, "Boucheron Leanes In," Vogue, 9 October 2008.
  26. "Asprey unveils Shaun Leane designs," Professional Jeweller, 1 May 2012.
  27. Shaun Leane, metmuseum.org. Accessed 1 February 2017.
  28. Shaun Leane, vam.ac.uk. Accessed 1 February 2017.
  29. Victoria Engelmann, "A royal true: Kate Middleton stays true to her roots in classic jewellery by British brands," The Jewellery Editor, 7 May 2014.
  30. "Daphne Guinness on the Unveiling of her Collaboration with Shaun Leane," Vogue, 1 July 2011.
  31. Samantha Conti, "Daphne Guinness' Golden Glove," Women's Wear Daily, 1 July 2011.
  32. Valerie Gladstone, "Jewelry Show Takes Over London Gallery," New York Times, 12 December 2011.
  33. Amanda Bell, "Lady Gaga Goes Full Countess for 'V Magazine'," MTV News, 6 January 2016.
  34. "SHOWcabinet: Shaun Leane," SHOWstudio, 23 May 2014.
  35. "Shaun Leane Collaborates With Atelier Swarovski," 10 Magazine, 17 June 2015.
  36. http://www.thejewelleryeditor.com/jewellery/article/kate-middleton-jewellery-on-royal-tour-stays-true-to-her-british-roots/
  37. https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/gallery/meghan-markle-royal-fashion
  38. https://www.telegraph.co.uk/luxury/jewellery/exclusive-princess-beatrices-engagement-ring-designer-shaun/
  39. https://www.telegraph.co.uk/luxury/jewellery/exclusive-princess-beatrices-engagement-ring-designer-shaun/
  40. https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/bazaar-brides/a29259507/princess-beatrice-shaun-leane-engagement-ring/
  41. https://www.vogue.co.uk/news/article/princess-beatrice-wedding
  42. Magazine, Wallpaper* (27 July 2018). "Jeweller Shaun Leane upscales to gild the façade of a London apartment block". Wallpaper*. Retrieved 15 April 2019.
  43. "First public art commission by internationally acclaimed jewellery designer Shaun Leane". Retrieved 15 April 2019.
  44. "Fine Jeweler Shaun Leane on his First Architectural Design". Elite Traveler. 19 July 2018. Retrieved 15 April 2019.
  45. London, Luxury (27 July 2018). "Jeweller Shaun Leane partners with new luxury development, 21 Young Street | Property | House". Luxury London. Retrieved 15 April 2019.
  46. Sotheby’s (4 December 2017). "Couture Fashion Jewellery: The Personal Archive of Shaun Leane". Couture Fashion Jewellery: The Personal Archive of Shaun Leane. Retrieved 8 May 2019.
  47. DeMarco, Anthony. "Auction Of Shaun Leane's Couture Fashion Jewels Fetches $2.6 Million". Forbes. Retrieved 8 May 2019.
  48. Leane, Shaun. "Ben Rowe Becomes Creative Director of Shaun Leane". www.prnewswire.com. Retrieved 17 July 2017.
  49. "Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination". Met Museum. 5 May 2018. Retrieved 8 May 2019.
  50. "Jewelry: The Body Transformed". Met Museum. 31 October 2018. Retrieved 8 May 2019.
  51. Tom Wildhern, "Beaverbrooks is big winner at UK Jewellery Awards," Jewellery Outlook, 19 July 2009.
  52. "Winners of UK Jewellery Awards," Professional Jeweller, 16 July 2010.
  53. "Anti-conventionally yours, Shaun Leane," Hong Kong Madame, 1 August 2011.
  54. "Shaun Leane wins Harper's Bazaar jewellery award," Professional Jeweller, 13 February 2013.
  55. "And the Winners Are…!" Walpole, 19 November 2013.
  56. "Shaun Leane wins Andrea Palladio Best International Jewellery Designer," Professional Jeweller, 10 September 2015.
  57. "Retail Jeweller UK Jewellery Awards 2016: Winners," Retail Jeweller, June 2016.
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