Jan Hojer

Jan Hojer (born February 9, 1992) is a German professional rock climber. He is known for winning one World Cup and two European Championships in bouldering. On May 2010, he climbed Action Directe, still considered to be one of the most difficult routes in the world. From 2013 to 2015, he solved several 8C (V15) boulder problems.

Jan Hojer
Hojer in 2018
Personal information
NationalityGermany
Born (1992-02-09) February 9, 1992
Cologne, Germany
OccupationProfessional rock climber
Height188 cm (6 ft 2 in)
Weight77 kg (170 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climberBouldering
Highest grade
Known forWinning one World Cup and two European Championships
Medal record
World Cup
Winner2014Bouldering
2015Bouldering
World Championships
2014Bouldering
2014Combined
2018Combined
European Championships
2015Bouldering
2017Bouldering
2017Combined
The World Games
2017Bouldering
Updated on 21 September 2018.
Hojer competing at the World Cup, Munich, 2015
Hojer, 2015
Hojer second at the World Cup 2015

Career

Hojer started participating in German Lead climbing youth competitions in 2004, at the age of 10. From 2008 to 2010 he participated in the Lead Climbing World Cup. Since his performances in lead climbing were never outstanding, he quit competing in that discipline in 2011 and started competing in bouldering. Notable results started coming next year, when he ranked fifth in the Climbing World Championships. He won the seasonal title of the Bouldering Climbing World Cup in 2014 and finished second in 2015.[1]

In 2015 and 2017 he won the Climbing European Championships in Bouldering.[1] Also in 2017, he won the silver medal at the Bouldering World Games in Wroclaw, Poland.

Hojer has won national championships in all climbing disciplines. He won the lead in 2008, 2017, and 2019. In bouldering he won in 2011, 2014, 2015, and 2016, finished second in 2017, and has not competed since. Hojer won the first German National Championship in the combined format in 2018, and in 2019 he won the only discipline that he hadn't won yet, speed.

He also obtained outstanding results in outdoor climbing. On May 2010, he climbed Action Directe, still considered to be one of the most difficult routes in the world.[2] From 2013 to 2015, he solved several outdoor 8C (V15) boulder problems.

Results

Climbing World Cup[3]
Discipline 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017
Lead 22 22 43 - - - - 33 - 17
Bouldering - - - 33 20 8 1 2 9 7
Speed - - - - - - - - - 29
Combined - - - - - - - 5 - 7

Climbing World Championships[1]
Discipline 2009 2011 2012 2014 2016 2018
Lead 30 - - 30 - 29
Bouldering 39 46 5 3 27 9
Speed - - - 30 - 33
Combined - - - 2 - 3

Climbing European Championships[1]
Discipline 2010 2013 2015 2017
Lead 41 - - 21
Bouldering - 20 1 1
Speed - - - 23
Combined - - - 1

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Bouldering[1]
Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
201211
2013112
2014325
201511
201611
201711
20180
201911
Total64212

Rock climbing

Redpointed routes

9a (5.14d):

8c+ (5.14c):

  • Pati noso - Siurana (ESP) - April 27, 2011
  • Bah Bah Black Sheep - Céüse (FRA) - July 22, 2010

Boulder problems

8C (V15):

8B+ (V14):

  • Jour de Chasse - Fontainebleau (FRA) - December 2013 - First ascent. Hojer graded it a soft 8C, possibly because he did not use a heel hook that, according to some repeaters, makes it easier to climb.[8]
  • Dreamtime - Cresciano (CHE) - February 18, 2013. Rated 8C by Hojer, who described it as "much harder than any 8B+ i've ever tried.."[9]
gollark: The new battery technologies never seem to actually go anywhere.
gollark: Giant orbital mirrors orientable to point at the house of someone you do not like > solar thermal.
gollark: And can't self-replicate.
gollark: Meanwhile, solar panels are 20% efficient, or something like that, but don't provide conveniently storable energy.
gollark: I think it's constrained by CO2 input, actually? Not sure.

References
  1. IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Hojer's profile and rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  2. Jan Hojer climbs Action Directe Archived 2010-07-31 at the Wayback Machine on climbing.de, Incl. Video. November 4, 2010
  3. IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  4. Quoi de Neuf 8c jan hojer
  5. Hojer sends The Story of Two Worlds V15
  6. Le Marathon de Boissy 8c Boissy aux Cailles
  7. Jan Hojer repeating The Big Island (V15) on ukclimbing.com, Incl. Video.
  8. Comments about Jour de Chasse on 8a.nu
  9. Hojer's boulders on 8a.nu
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