Akiyo Noguchi
Akiyo Noguchi (野口 啓代, Noguchi Akiyo, born May 30, 1989) is a Japanese professional rock climber, sport climber and boulderer. She participates in both bouldering and lead climbing competitions. She is known for winning the IFSC Climbing World Cup in Bouldering four times. In her home country, she won Bouldering Japan Cup nine times consecutively from 2005 to 2014, which no other Japanese athlete has been able to match.
 Noguchi at the World Cup in Vienna, 2010. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Personal information | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Nationality | Japan | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Born | May 30, 1989 Japan | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Occupation | Professional sport climber | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Height | 165 cm (5 ft 5 in) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Weight | 49 kg (108 lb) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Website | http://akiyonoguchi.com | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Climbing career | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Type of climber | Bouldering, Lead climbing | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Highest grade |
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| Known for | Winning the bouldering World Cup 4 times | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Medal record
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| Updated on April 28, 2019. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Biography
Noguchi grew up on a cattle farm in the Ibaraki Prefecture. From a young age she would climb on buildings, trees and sometimes even on the cows. In 2000, when she was 11 years old, she would try a real climbing wall for the first time, during a holiday trip to Guam. Back at home she immediately joined a local climbing gym. Her father would later build her a climbing wall in an old cattle barn on the farm.[1][2][3]
In 2007, she started competing in the Bouldering World Cups, reaching the podium three times. In 2009, she won the World Cup in bouldering, over the previous year's champion Anna Stöhr.[4] Noguchi repeated as champion in 2010, 2014 and 2015.[5] In the 2011, 2012 and 2013 bouldering events at the World Cup she placed second.[5] She has also won the combined climbling title at the World Cup three times.[5]
Noguchi was also awarded the La Sportiva Competition Award in 2010, "for her victories and the positive spirit she exudes during competitions".[6]
Rankings
Climbing World Cup[5]
| 2005 | 2006 | 2007 | 2008 | 2009 | 2010 | 2011 | 2012 | 2013 | 2014 | 2015 | 2016 | 2017 | 2018 | 2019 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 42 | 21 | 24 | 5 | 11 | 8 | 20 | 13 | 7 | 10 | 30 | 17 | 15 | 8 | 9 |
| Bouldering | - | - | 6 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 4 | 3 | 2 | 2 |
| Combined | - | - | 5 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 3 | 2 | 1 | 2 | 2 | 6 | 2 | 2 |
Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup
Lead[7]
| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2008 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2009 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2010 | 2 | 2 | ||
| 2011 | 0 | |||
| 2012 | 0 | |||
| 2013 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2014 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2015 | 0 | |||
| 2016 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2017 | 0 | |||
| 2018 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2019 | 1 | 1 | ||
| Total | 0 | 4 | 5 | 9 |
Bouldering[7]
| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2007 | 2 | 1 | 3 | |
| 2008 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 3 |
| 2009 | 3 | 1 | 1 | 5 |
| 2010 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 4 |
| 2011 | 4 | 1 | 5 | |
| 2012 | 3 | 3 | ||
| 2013 | 3 | 2 | 5 | |
| 2014 | 4 | 1 | 2 | 7 |
| 2015 | 1 | 3 | 4 | |
| 2016 | 1 | 2 | 3 | |
| 2017 | 2 | 3 | 5 | |
| 2018 | 3 | 4 | 7 | |
| 2019 | 4 | 4 | ||
| Total | 21 | 20 | 17 | 58 |
Rock climbing
Redpointed routes
8b (5.13d):
- Liquid Finger - Joyama (JPN) - December 12, 2008
8c+ (5.14c):
- Mind Control - Oliana (SPN) - December 10, 2013
Media
Akiyo Noguchi is world renowned for her incredible technique and mobility. Udo Neumann, a German climbing coach, published a video of some of her best performances throughout her career, analyzing the qualities that have allowed her to excel in climbing. This video, entitled "Factors Deciding Bouldering Comps - the Art of Akiyo Noguchi,"[13] emphasizes her adaptability, which enables her to come up with unique solutions to the problems she encounters. Furthermore, her mobility allows her to do moves that elude her fellow competitors.[14] She has also gained fame on social medias, such as Instagram, where she has over 100 thousand followers.[15]
See also
References
- "Indoor Weekly: Akiyo Noguchi on Cows and Olympics". Gripped. Archived from the original on Jul 15, 2019.
- "Akiyo Noguchi explains 2020 Olympic event sports climbing". hakuhodo-global.com. Archived from the original on Jul 15, 2019.
- "Owndays meets #3 Akiyo Noguchi". Archived from the original on Jul 15, 2019.
- planetmountain.com, ed. (June 16, 2009). "Coppa del Mondo Boulder 2009: Fischhuber e Noghuchi al top, Moroni è terzo". Retrieved April 29, 2012.
- IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
- Vinicio Stefanello (July 18, 2010). arco2011.it (ed.). "Arco Rock Legend 2010 a Manolo, Ondra e Noguchi". Retrieved December 22, 2011.
- IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Noguchi's profile and rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
- "Akiyo Noguchi Crimps To Glory On 'Aguni' V12 | EpicTV Climbing Daily, Ep. 383".
- "Rock Trip 2016 in Bishop".
- youtube (ed.). "Monsterman SD".
- up-climbing.com, ed. (February 9, 2010). "Two female 8A – Noguchi and Matthes". Retrieved December 22, 2011.
- "Rock Trip 2016 in Bishop".
- udini, Factors Deciding Boulder Comps - the Art of Akiyo Noguchi, retrieved 2019-02-07
- OnBouldering, A jaw-dropping move by Akiyo Noguchi | Sunday Sends, retrieved 2019-02-07
- "NoguchiAkiyo / 野口啓代 / のぐちあきよ (@noguchi_akiyo) • Instagram photos and videos". www.instagram.com. Retrieved 2019-02-07.
External links
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Wikimedia Commons has media related to Akiyo Noguchi. |