You can check out http://samwel.tk/laptop_mode/ . Although this page is not primarly about your problem, but gives a good overall picture how IO works and ideas, how to silent your disks by shutting them off.
The short answer for your problem:
echo 1 > /proc/sys/vm/block_dump
it will produce messages in syslog like:
Jul 23 10:04:05 locutus kernel: ls(5224): READ block 7340136 on dm-4
Jul 23 10:04:05 locutus kernel: ls(5224): READ block 4335136 on dm-4
Jul 23 10:04:05 locutus kernel: ls(5224): READ block 15505568 on dm-4
Jul 23 10:04:05 locutus kernel: ls(5224): READ block 7340160 on dm-4
Jul 23 10:04:05 locutus kernel: ls(5224): READ block 7340168 on dm-4
I've used a simple ls command
NOTE: be sure your system logging is shut off or written to a ramdisk (type: tmpfs) before doing so, because (quote): "your system may get into a feedback loop, where syslogd causes disk activity, this causes kernel output, and this causes syslogd to do more disk activity"
I recommend mounting /tmp as a ramdisk then setting up logging to /tmp/syslog. This in /etc/fstab (and a reboot) will do:
none /tmp tmpfs defaults,size=256M 0 0