Starlink terminals are different from your average satellite phone in one important regard: their antenna is directional. It is a phased array.
This has two important consequences:
- The total radio power emitted is less than it would be, should the transmitter be omnidirectional. It is like 2W - comparable to an old-fashioned 2G phone and few times less than Iridium and likes for a great deal more bandwidth.
I didn't find easilly available information about the existence of any kind of transmitter power control. It is quite possible (and in general a good engineering practice) that the transmitted power is reduced when the link conditions (satellite position and/or the weather) are favorable.
The (averaged) transmit power also depends on the upload data rate. It will be 20-50 times less if the connection is used to download information at the maximum rate (compared to the upload at the maximum rate) and much less when it is lightly used or idle.
- The emitted radio power is concentrated in a quite narrow beam pointing at some satellite. The beam width is like 1-2 degrees.
The same technology that makes it efficient also makes it much less detectable. If the detector is not in or near the beam, it will get orders of magnitude less radio power from the antenna, compared to the ordinary satellite phone. It may as well fail to detect it.
I don't know how much sensitive is the military equipment used for this purpose. Either way, the detection is much harder and much more error-prone.
Edit:
The above is completely true about Starlink terminal V1 (with the circle antenna) when used with wired (Ethernet) connection only and the WiFi disabled or, better yet, the router completely unplugged. V1 is perfectly usable without the bundled-in WiFi router. The white cable from the bundle can be connected to a third-party Ethernet-only router or directly to the computer's Ethernet port.
The V2 terminal (with the rectangular antenna) does not have Ethernet capabilities bundled in. It requires an "Ethernet adapter" that is ordered separately. The WiFi router acts as a power supply for the dish, so it cannot be completely and securely unplugged as in V1. I am not aware whether the WiFi can be reliably turned off in the V2 software when only the Ethernet port is used.
More comments about radio-securing V2 are welcome.
Edit2:
Various people on the Internet succeeded in making V2 completely "wired" by cutting the router-side proprietary connector off the cable, crimping an Ethernet RJ-45 plug instead (the cable looks like a beefed-up Ethernet with the usual color scheme) and using a third-party POE injectors with sufficient power rating (aim for 48V, 2A or maybe less with the snow melting function disabled).
I don't have V2 available to test, but the idea looks right.