Setharier
October 30th, 2008, 11:13 AM
There has been some talk about effective recoilless/countermass launcher. As far as I have theoreticized it, the basic construction parts would be 1.5-2l drink bottle and a plastic/metal pipe the bottle perfectly fits.
The idea is to obtain a 1500mm pipe inner diameter of 95-100mm(the exact diameter of the bottle must be confirmed) made of pvc or alternatively, metal, which would perhaps be more durable. This pipe would be then drag-coated with several layers of finest mesh glass fiber throughoutly. In the middle at 500mm length of there would be double- or even triple layer of glass fibre coating. The purpose is to actually make the device stand pressures that allows 2-4kg projectile to be thrown several hundreds of meters away for being effective.
In the case of making recoilless launcher the double-triple layer of GF must be coated at the end of the launcher, not in the middle since the propellant is at the very end also.
The projectile would be made out of plastic drink bottle 1.5-2 liters of volume. The bottle acts as a shell of the grenade. The bottle must not fit perfectly in the barrel(althrough lesser free space is always better) because the bottle will be saboted with wet paper sabot around the etiquette space and this way it will be perfected into the pipe and tightened. When the paper dries it will shrink a little and stamp itself to the bottle. The paper can be treated with vax to minimize the friction.
The bottle needs a tail for stabilization and it will be most likely much easier to do than rifling. This part of the device is still to be perfected but using gluing, lead-through the bottle's bottom and equivalent methods it will be working. The tail could be made of metal(molded or welded from pieces), plastic-resin-glass fibre - method or from wood.
In the bottle there can be loaded about whatever wanted. KE ammunition would be somewhat waste of material so some kind of explosive charge comes in question. Explosive, shrapnel, incendiary, flash, even HEAT can be considered as working and plausible loads. In the front at the screw plug there will be the impact detonator that could be adjusted duty/off-duty by screwing it as the real ones are used. To the very top of the plug shall be placed striker plate which leads through the plug striker rod to a primer, commercial or self-made, which ignites primary/booster that detonates the main charge when the striker plate hits the target. For example an emptied shotgun cartridge filled with ETN or some of the commercial stable-enough primary material that is detonated by the primer hit by the striker rod.
The countermass can be used or left off, considering the needed amount of propellant by that. Countermass weapons are obviously less noticeable due to the missing backblast and the needed propellant can be adjusted more better. Only the recoilless weapons have usually longer pipe and the propellant is inserted at the very end of the gun. Both recoilless and countermass weapons are recoilless if balanced correctly. Countermass uses literally the countermass balancing the back-force from the projectile, but recoilless uses the backblast as a very-short-timed rocket jet to boost the weapon torwards the projectile and thus the jet and projectile force neutralizes each other.
The countermass can be made of about anything that weights equal the shell does. Even a bag filled with water goes fine. First the idea of the countermass is to be something that will minimize the danger caused behind the gun. Placing sand-filled bottle as a countermass will eventually cause the shell and countermass fly both nearly as long, other goes to the target, other goes stright on your mates. The real guns uses some sort of fibre stuff that is packed with glue or something and when fired, it will spread out the pipe and lose it's speed nearly instantly. I would personally prefer using water-filled bags.
The propellant used in the cracker bag / spam jar launcher is few grams of black powder. It is sufficient enouh to bring the shell tens of meters away. When actual power is needed, one must use larger amounts of black powder or then just move up to the nitrocellulose. The propellant would be fitted between two plates perfectly fitting in the pipe. The powder could or even should be packed up into some sort of cartridge to avoid the granules leaking off or even igniting due to the friction caused by the loading of the gun. The paper used packing the powder can be itself made of or coated with something similar. The plates placed both sides work as the propelling ends for the countermass and the shell and they will push both out the pipe.
Ignition is something that must really be perfected. There are about two methods. Using Piped Ammunition Units that can be ignited electrically and are both easier and safer to use in the action or just simply installing piezo lighter in the place of trigger and wait a second to have the powder cath the fire.
The Piped Ammunition Unit is simply an plastic pipe which outer diameter is same as the launcher's inner diameter. In this pipe would be packed the shell, the propellant charge and the electric fuse and a countermass, sealed from both ends. In the middle there would be metal touch surfaces placed correctly leading into the propellant where has been pulled nichrome wire. In the launcher would be installed metal plates in the middle inside the pipe that will come in touch with the surfaces when the PAU is loaded in the launcher. When fired, the trigger switches the power on, causing nichrome to ignite and leading the ignition of the propellant.
So much for it, not it has been told :) Naturally this wasn't originally my idea.
The idea is to obtain a 1500mm pipe inner diameter of 95-100mm(the exact diameter of the bottle must be confirmed) made of pvc or alternatively, metal, which would perhaps be more durable. This pipe would be then drag-coated with several layers of finest mesh glass fiber throughoutly. In the middle at 500mm length of there would be double- or even triple layer of glass fibre coating. The purpose is to actually make the device stand pressures that allows 2-4kg projectile to be thrown several hundreds of meters away for being effective.
In the case of making recoilless launcher the double-triple layer of GF must be coated at the end of the launcher, not in the middle since the propellant is at the very end also.
The projectile would be made out of plastic drink bottle 1.5-2 liters of volume. The bottle acts as a shell of the grenade. The bottle must not fit perfectly in the barrel(althrough lesser free space is always better) because the bottle will be saboted with wet paper sabot around the etiquette space and this way it will be perfected into the pipe and tightened. When the paper dries it will shrink a little and stamp itself to the bottle. The paper can be treated with vax to minimize the friction.
The bottle needs a tail for stabilization and it will be most likely much easier to do than rifling. This part of the device is still to be perfected but using gluing, lead-through the bottle's bottom and equivalent methods it will be working. The tail could be made of metal(molded or welded from pieces), plastic-resin-glass fibre - method or from wood.
In the bottle there can be loaded about whatever wanted. KE ammunition would be somewhat waste of material so some kind of explosive charge comes in question. Explosive, shrapnel, incendiary, flash, even HEAT can be considered as working and plausible loads. In the front at the screw plug there will be the impact detonator that could be adjusted duty/off-duty by screwing it as the real ones are used. To the very top of the plug shall be placed striker plate which leads through the plug striker rod to a primer, commercial or self-made, which ignites primary/booster that detonates the main charge when the striker plate hits the target. For example an emptied shotgun cartridge filled with ETN or some of the commercial stable-enough primary material that is detonated by the primer hit by the striker rod.
The countermass can be used or left off, considering the needed amount of propellant by that. Countermass weapons are obviously less noticeable due to the missing backblast and the needed propellant can be adjusted more better. Only the recoilless weapons have usually longer pipe and the propellant is inserted at the very end of the gun. Both recoilless and countermass weapons are recoilless if balanced correctly. Countermass uses literally the countermass balancing the back-force from the projectile, but recoilless uses the backblast as a very-short-timed rocket jet to boost the weapon torwards the projectile and thus the jet and projectile force neutralizes each other.
The countermass can be made of about anything that weights equal the shell does. Even a bag filled with water goes fine. First the idea of the countermass is to be something that will minimize the danger caused behind the gun. Placing sand-filled bottle as a countermass will eventually cause the shell and countermass fly both nearly as long, other goes to the target, other goes stright on your mates. The real guns uses some sort of fibre stuff that is packed with glue or something and when fired, it will spread out the pipe and lose it's speed nearly instantly. I would personally prefer using water-filled bags.
The propellant used in the cracker bag / spam jar launcher is few grams of black powder. It is sufficient enouh to bring the shell tens of meters away. When actual power is needed, one must use larger amounts of black powder or then just move up to the nitrocellulose. The propellant would be fitted between two plates perfectly fitting in the pipe. The powder could or even should be packed up into some sort of cartridge to avoid the granules leaking off or even igniting due to the friction caused by the loading of the gun. The paper used packing the powder can be itself made of or coated with something similar. The plates placed both sides work as the propelling ends for the countermass and the shell and they will push both out the pipe.
Ignition is something that must really be perfected. There are about two methods. Using Piped Ammunition Units that can be ignited electrically and are both easier and safer to use in the action or just simply installing piezo lighter in the place of trigger and wait a second to have the powder cath the fire.
The Piped Ammunition Unit is simply an plastic pipe which outer diameter is same as the launcher's inner diameter. In this pipe would be packed the shell, the propellant charge and the electric fuse and a countermass, sealed from both ends. In the middle there would be metal touch surfaces placed correctly leading into the propellant where has been pulled nichrome wire. In the launcher would be installed metal plates in the middle inside the pipe that will come in touch with the surfaces when the PAU is loaded in the launcher. When fired, the trigger switches the power on, causing nichrome to ignite and leading the ignition of the propellant.
So much for it, not it has been told :) Naturally this wasn't originally my idea.