iPhone XS Max Rear-Facing Cameras Replacement

Written By: Jeff Suovanen

Comments: 24

iPhone XS Max Rear-Facing Cameras Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

Use this guide to remove and replace the rear cameras in the iPhone XS Max. The rear camera assembly consists of two individual modules: one wide-angle camera and one telephoto camera. Both modules are replaced as a single unit.

Both iPhone XS and XS Max use the same camera; the part can be swapped freely between the two models.

Note: This guide instructs you to completely detach the display cables and remove the display assembly in order to better access the rear cameras—however, it's possible to remove and replace the rear cameras with the display cables still connected. Advanced readers may skip disconnecting the display in order to save time, as long as the display is properly supported and the display cables are not damaged.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
Remove the two 6.9 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

Step 2

If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.
Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.
Alternatively, tape a coin to a pick 3 mm from the tip.

Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?

Sloan Looney -

Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?

Clay Eickemeyer -

I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.

Clay Eickemeyer -

what fix kit?

Meow Purr -

My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either

WILLIAM HARRIS -

Make sure you check inside the black boxes after emptying them. My pick was stuck inside one of the boxes.

AndyF -

My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary

Gijs Leegwater -

Step 3

If your iPhone has a cracked screen, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.
If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.
If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the screen.

Step 4

The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.
Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
If you find that the surface of your iPhone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 5

Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

Step 6

Heat an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.
You can also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but extreme heat can damage the display and/or internal battery, so proceed with care.
Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle a quarter turn.
Don't crank more than a quarter turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next three steps.

Step 7

Heating the lower edge of the iPhone helps soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

besteht da die Gefahr das sich das Displayglas vom lcd löst?

roter spieler -

Besteht da die Gefahr das sich der Kleber vom Displayglas löst?

roter spieler -

Step 8

If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.

Step 9

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

I need help. I inserted the pick under the screen, but above the touch screen. When I lifted it, all I see is the silver touch screen instead of the interior of the iPhone. How do I to opening the screen the right way from here?

Joe Blaze -

Step 10

Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.
Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage the internal components.

Step 11

There are delicate cables along the right edge of your iPhone. Don't insert your pick here, as you may damage the cables.

Step 12

Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.
Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage the display cables.

Step 13

The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips.
Slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or wiggling the display down in the direction of the Lightning port.
The clips will break if you use too much force. Work carefully and be patient.
Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage the front panel sensor array.
Slide the pick to the opposite corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.

Step 14

Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

Step 15

Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn't click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren't bent.

Step 16

Remove four Y000 screws securing the logic board cover bracket, of the following lengths:
Two 1.1 mm screws
One 1.5 mm screw
One 3.7 mm screw
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

Step 17

Remove the bracket.
The bracket may be lightly adhered in place. Lift gently but firmly to separate it.
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

Step 18

Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.
Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

Step 19

Remove the three Y000 screws securing the display connector bracket:
Two 1.5 mm screws
One 1.1 mm screw

I am replacing the screen for the 2nd time - the first repair was done by someone else, and the first 2 screws are 1.5mm and the last screw is 1.1mm… If I put the screw back in am I risking Long Screw Damage?

Sarah Ybarra - 22/03/20

I think that the outside screw (red one, one the right) is actually 1.5 mm or something longer than 1.1. Looked that way to me.

Paul Key - 12/05/20

From the top, the screws are: 2 x 1,5mm + 1 x 1,1mm

serdev94 - 25/09/20

I can confirm the above comments on the screw length. Pls correct it in the description!

k_neuper -

Thanks for all your comments! I'll amend this step.

Arthur Shi -

Hi, I just changed the screen on my XS Max and for this bracket I used 2 x 1.1 mm and 1 x 1.5 mm.

Starting from left to right:

- left 1.1 mm (I tried with 1.5 mm like in the above picture but I felt that it didn't wanted to go deeper so I didn't forced and I tried it in the middle and it fit perfectly)

- middle 1.5 mm

- right 1.1 mm

For the two brackets I had 7 screws, I aligned them on the desk by length and I had 2 x 1.5 mm, 4 x 1.1 mm and 1 x 3.7 mm.

Good luck and I hope it will help someone!

Adrian Slabu -

Step 20

Remove the bracket.

Step 21

Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.

Step 22

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the OLED panel cable connector.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Step 23

Use a spudger or fingernail to pry the digitizer cable connector up from its socket.
If any part of your screen doesn't respond to touch after your repair, disconnect the battery and then re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there's no dust or other obstruction in the socket.

Mine still won’t respond even after reseating any ideas? Ground issue?

Jasom -

Step 24

The front panel sensor assembly flex cable is lightly adhered in place.
Carefully lift the cable until the adhesive separates.

What if that cable brakes how do u fix that?

Kourtney Williams -

Step 25

Remove the display assembly.
During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the waterproof adhesive around the edges of the display.

No olviden que para que pase el Face Id tienen q cambiar el flex que va encima de la camara delantera con mucho cuidado ya q si le ponen otro flex no funcionara.

jeferson - 31/10/18

Step 26

Remove the two 1.8 mm Phillips screws securing the rear camera cover.

These two screws are not the same size. The one sitting near the topmost part of the phone is the larger of the two screws

Mason Davenport -

Step 27

Lift the camera cover from the edge closest to the battery, and remove it.
To reinstall the camera cover, follow the images exactly in reverse: first, lower the outside edge until the two protruding tabs on the cover are slotted securely into the bracket on the outer edge of the camera module. Then, hinge the cover closed.
If the two tabs are not seated correctly, the cover will not lay flat.

Step 28

Use an iFixit opening tool or a fingernail to disconnect the two camera cable connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets.

Step 29

Insert both tips of your tweezers or a pointed pry tool at the bottom right corner of the camera, between the camera assembly and the iPhone's frame.
Gently pry up to lever the camera out of the iPhone.
The camera assembly is not glued down, but it is firmly press-fit into place. A spudger or plastic pry tool may not be strong enough to lever it out.

Step 30

Remove the rear-facing camera assembly.

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

Author

Jeff Suovanen

Member since: 06/08/13

427153 Reputation

4 comments

Hi I was wondering if the rear facing camera class is broken is there a way to replace the glass?

hughes - 24/01/19

I’m replacing it now by myself :) There’s nothing complicated. (except screws and reminding where they come from)

Zared - 15/11/20

Yes you can buy it on Amazon for around $8. It is very easy, no heat gun required

Bruce Linn -

After being quoted over $500 at various repairers to replace these rear-facing cameras, I decided to purchase the part for $100 and complete the repair myself. The instructions were detailed and easy to follow, and the different screws being colour coded on the instructions really helped with reassembling. My camera now works perfectly, and I saved myself over $400 by doing the repair myself. I also replaced the adhesive water resistant seal, which was much easier than I anticipated. All in all, 10/10 repair guide, thank you so much!

Meg Gunst - 15/11/20