iPhone SE 2022 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement

Written By: Dominik Schnabelrauch

Comments: 7

iPhone SE 2022 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 3 hours

Introduction

Use this guide to remove or replace the Lightning connector assembly for the iPhone SE 2022. This assembly includes the lower microphones, an antenna converter cable, and the Lightning connector. If you've tried cleaning the lightning port to no avail, replacing the Lightning connector can solve charging and connectivity issues.

This guide was performed on the A2783 (international) model.

If you do not replace the adhesive seals when reassembling, your device will function normally, but will most likely lose its water protection.

You’ll need replacement adhesive to reattach components when reassembling the device.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Insert a SIM card eject tool, a SIM eject bit, or a straightened paper clip into the hole on the SIM tray located at the right edge of the phone.
Press directly into the hole to eject the SIM card tray.
Remove the SIM card tray.

Step 2

Power off your phone before beginning disassembly.
Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.

Step 3

If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.
Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.
Alternatively, tape a coin to a pick 3 mm from the tip.

Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?

Sloan Looney -

Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?

Clay Eickemeyer -

I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.

Clay Eickemeyer -

what fix kit?

Meow Purr -

My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either

WILLIAM HARRIS -

Make sure you check inside the black boxes after emptying them. My pick was stuck inside one of the boxes.

AndyF -

My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary

Gijs Leegwater -

Step 4

If your iPhone has a cracked screen, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.
If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.
If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the screen.

Step 5

The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone just above the home button—one on the front, and one on the back.
Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
If you find that the surface of your iPhone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 6

Pull the blue handle forwards to lock the arms.
Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

Step 7

Heat an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.
You can also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but extreme heat can damage the display and/or internal battery, so proceed with care.
Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
Insert an opening pick under the screen's plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle a quarter turn.
Don't crank more than a quarter turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next two steps.

Step 8

If you're using a suction handle, follow the next two steps to loosen the rear glass.
Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the screen for at least two minutes to loosen the adhesive underneath.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

Step 9

Secure a suction handle to the lower half of the front panel, as close to the home button as possible.
Lift the front panel with the suction handle to create a small gap between the front panel and the frame.
If you have trouble creating a gap, apply more heat to the bottom half of the screen to further soften the adhesive. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.
Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen's plastic bezel.

Step 10

Slide the opening pick to the bottom right corner to slice the front panel adhesive.
Insert a second opening pick at the bottom edge of your phone.
Slide the opening pick to the bottom left corner to slice the adhesive.
Leave the opening picks in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 11

If the adhesive becomes hard to cut, it has most likely cooled down. Use your iOpener for two to three minutes to reheat it.
Slide the bottom left opening pick along the left edge of your phone to slice the adhesive.
Stop near the top left corner of the display.
Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.

Step 12

Slide the bottom right opening pick along the right edge of your phone to slice the adhesive.
Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage internal components.
Stop near the top right corner of the display.

Step 13

Remove the opening picks.
Gently pull up on the suction handle to lift up the bottom edge of the display.
Do not raise the display more than 15º or you'll risk straining or tearing the ribbon cables connecting the display.
Remove the suction handle.

Step 14

Slide an opening pick underneath the top left corner of the display.
Slide the opening pick around the top left corner and along the top edge of the phone to slice the remaining adhesive.

Step 15

Slide the display assembly slightly down in direction of the charging port to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

Step 16

Open the phone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
Don't try to fully separate the display from the phone assembly yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the logic board.
Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

Step 17

Remove the four Phillips screws securing the lower display cable bracket:
Two 1.2 mm-long screws
Two 2.8 mm-long screws
Throughout this guide, keep careful track of your screws so that each one goes back where it came from during reassembly. Installing a screw in the wrong place can cause permanent damage.

Step 18

Use a pair of tweezers to carefully remove the lower display cable bracket.

Step 19

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the battery by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Step 20

The display and digitizer cables run on top of each other. To avoid cable damage always start by disconnecting the upper cable first and never try to disconnect both at the same time.
Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the bottom two display cables by prying the connectors straight up from their sockets.
To re-attach press connectors like this, press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

Step 21

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.2 mm-long screws securing the front sensor assembly bracket.

Step 22

Use a pair of tweezers to carefully remove the front sensor assembly bracket.

Step 23

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the front sensor assembly by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Step 24

Remove the display assembly.

Step 25

Unfasten the three screws securing the Lighting connector bracket:
One 1.2 mm-long Y000 screw
One 2.7 mm-long Phillips screw
One 2.9 mm-long Phillips screws

Step 26

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the Lightning connector bracket.

Step 27

Carefully slide an opening pick between the antenna flex cable and the top of the speaker.
This portion of the flex cable is lightly adhered to the speaker. If you're struggling to separate the cable from the speaker, apply a little heat from an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive. This will make it easier to separate the flex cable safely.

Step 28

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the Wi-Fi diversity antenna by prying its connector straight up from its socket.
The socket of this connector sits loosely between the speaker and the Taptic Engine and it's a bit fiddly to disconnect the cable. To make the disconnection easier, you can use an opening pick to hold down the connector socket during this procedure.
Reconnecting this cable can be tricky. Make it easier by using tweezers to hold the flex cable so the connector aligns with its socket. Then, gently press straight down on the connector with the flat of your spudger until it clicks into place.

Step 29

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the Wi-Fi diversity antenna from the logic board by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Step 30

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the Wi-Fi diversity antenna.

Step 31

Remove the two screws securing the Taptic Engine:
One 2.1 mm Phillips screw
One 2.1 mm standoff screw
Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.
In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

Step 32

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the grounding bracket at the left edge of the Taptic Engine.

Step 33

Use the pointed end of your spudger to pry the antenna cable socket up and away from the Taptic Engine connector below.

Step 34

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Step 35

Use a pair of tweezers to carefully remove the Taptic Engine.

Step 36

Remove the two screws securing the barometric vent:
One 1.9 mm-long Phillips screw
One 1.7 mm-long Phillips screw

Step 37

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the barometric vent.
The barometric vent is lightly adhered to the rear case. If you're struggling to separate the vent from the case, apply a little heat from an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive. This will make it easier to separate the barometric vent safely.

Step 38

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the rear camera by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Step 39

Remove the two screws securing the rear-facing camera bracket:
One 3.0 mm-long standoff screw
Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.
In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.
One 3.1 mm-long Phillips screw

Step 40

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the rear camera bracket.

Step 41

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the flash by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Step 42

Remove the two screws securing the upper cable bracket:
One 2.8 mm-long Phillips screw
One 1.2 mm-long Phillips screw

Step 43

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the upper cable bracket.

Step 44

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the upper flex cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Step 45

Unfasten the three 1.2 mm-long Phillips screws securing the top left antenna component.
Don't try to remove the antenna component yet. There's a fourth screw securing it to the rear case.

Step 46

Unfasten the 1.4 mm-long Phillips screw securing the antenna component to the top edge of the rear case.

Step 47

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the top left antenna component.

Step 48

Unfasten the two screws securing the top left grounding bracket:
One 1.5 mm-long Phillips screw
One 1.2 mm-long Phillips screw

Step 49

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the top left grounding bracket.

Step 50

Unfasten the four screws securing the logic board:
One 1.7 mm-long Phillips screw
One partially threaded 1.7 mm-long Phillips screw
This screw is covered by protective foam surrounding the rear camera connector. Use a pair of tweezers to peel just enough foam off to unfasten the screw.
One 2.5 mm-long standoff screw
One 2.2 mm-long standoff screw

Step 51

Use a pair of tweezers to carefully pry up the logic board grounding bracket in the top right corner of the rear case.

Step 52

Use the pointed end of a spudger to move the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board's way by pushing it to the right edge of the rear case.

Step 53

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the Lightning port cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the wireless charging coil cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Step 54

Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry up the battery connector end of the logic board.
Be careful not to pry against any cables. If you feel resistance, check that all cables, connectors, and components are clear of the board.

Step 55

Grasping it by the edges, lift the logic board near the battery connector and remove it.
Make sure that none of the surrounding cables are tangled with the logic board or blocking its way.

Step 56

Unfasten the two screws securing the loudspeaker:
One 1.4 mm-long Phillips screw
One 2.1 mm-long Phillips screw

Step 57

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the loudspeaker.

Step 58

Unfasten the five screws securing the lighting connector to the rear case:
One 1.3 mm-long Phillips screw
Two 2.3 mm-long Phillips screws
Two 1.4 mm-long Phillips screws

Step 59

Use the pointed end of a spudger to gently pry the two microphones on the left and right of the Lightning connector free from the adhesive securing them in place.
Don't try to completely remove the microphones; just separate the adhesive as shown.

Step 60

Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom of the rear case to loosen the charging port assembly adhesive, angling it as shown.

Step 61

Slide an opening pick underneath the top portion of the Lightning connector assembly flex cable, and begin separating the cable from the rear case.
Part of the wireless charging coil lies directly underneath this portion of the Lightning connector flex cable. Aggressive prying may damage the coil.
If needed, use your hair dryer or iOpener repeatedly to re-heat the area behind the Lightning connector assembly flex cable in order to further soften its adhesive.
Continue separating the upper portion of the flex cable, being careful not to damage any other components along the way.
Keep the battery connector gently folded out of the way to avoid damaging it.
Be very careful not to damage the battery itself. A punctured battery can leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire.
Stop sliding the pick once it passes the lower edge of the battery.

Step 62

Starting at the corner of the phone, slide the pick underneath the cable towards the Lightning connector.
Stop sliding the pick when it reaches the Lightning connector.

Step 63

Gently pull the Lightning connector out of its recess in the rear case.
Don't try to remove the lightning connector assembly all the way yet. It is still partly adhered to the rear case.

Step 64

Slide an opening pick below the Lightning connector to further separate the assembly from the rear case.
Continue to slide the pick until the Lightning connector assembly is no longer adhered to the bottom of the rear case.
Don't try to remove the lightning connector assembly all the way yet. A last bit is still adhered to the left edge of the rear case.

Step 65

Slide an opening pick between the left edge of the rear case and the remaining adhered section of the Lightning assembly.

Step 66

Remove the Lightning connector assembly.
Before installing or replacing the Lightning connector assembly:
Remove any remaining adhesive, and clean the glued areas with isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth.
Before removing the adhesive backing on a new assembly, make sure the Lightning connector assembly is correctly positioned by aligning the hole in the flex cable with the screw post. If the cable is misaligned, you won't be able to reconnect it to the logic board.

Step 67

A rubber gasket on the bottom of the Lightning connector protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. If you are installing a new Lightning connector assembly, you may need to carefully remove and transfer the gasket to the new part.
The small adhesive patch on the bottom of each microphone also protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. For best results, replace the two adhesive patches before installing your Lightning connector assembly.
Check if your new part comes with an antenna converter cable. If it doesn't, use the pointed end of your spudger to pry up and transfer the cable from your old Lightning assembly to the new one.

Conclusion

If possible, turn on your device and test your repair before installing new adhesive and resealing.

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer other remaining components or remove additional adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.

Author

Dominik Schnabelrauch

Member since: 23/11/16

201162 Reputation

iPhone SE 2022 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement

Introduction

Tools

Parts

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